VAL Digest V2 #229

VAL Digest           Tuesday, April 26 2005           Volume 02 : Number 229




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Bowen Water Heater
Re: [VAL] Bowen Water Heater
Re: [VAL] Vent pipes
Re: [VAL] Vent pipes
Re: [VAL] Bowen Water Heater
Re: [VAL] Vent pipes
[VAL] Sprint/Verizon in Springfield MO
[VAL] Campers Choice Rumors of Demise?
Re: [VAL] Aluminum Wiring - What Years?
RE: [VAL] Vent pipes
Re: [VAL] Aluminum Wiring - What Years?
Re: [VAL] Replacing wheels
Re: [VAL] Vent pipes
Re: [VAL] Vent pipes
[VAL] AOl subscribers
Re: [VAL] Campers Choice Rumors of Demise?
[VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream
Re: [VAL] Vent pipes
Re: [VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream
[VAL] Bumper sticker
Re: [VAL] Campers Choice Rumors of Demise?
Re: [VAL] Aluminum Wiring - What Years?
Re: [VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream
RE: [VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream
Re: [VAL] Aluminum Wiring - What Years?
[VAL] Oddball tubing size.
[VAL] Metal toilet ring
Re: [VAL] Vent pipes
Re: [VAL] Vent pipes
Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.
Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.
[VAL] Daisy - sanitation - hoses etc.
Re: [VAL] Daisy - sanitation - hoses etc.
Re: [VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream
Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.
Re: [VAL] Metal toilet ring
Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.
Re: [VAL] Metal toilet ring
Re: [VAL] Campers Choice Rumors of Demise?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 06:17:53 -0400
From: "wwyatt" <wwyatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Bowen Water Heater

- --
My 1965 Caravel has the original Bowen water heater.  While camping this
week, the plastic control knob broke.  I need a replacement.  Does anyone
have an old heater with a knob I could purchase, or any other ideas.  The
water heater works fine and does not leak .
Thanks,
Whit--- Original .com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 07:17:33 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bowen Water Heater

I'm not sure it will work, but did you try super glue ? cyan 
acrylic(?) glue works pretty well if the broken pieces are 
carefully alligned, and better than that two part epoxy.

New adage:
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If it is broke, fix it.
  If you cain't fix it, replace it.

Daisy


wwyatt wrote:

> --
> My 1965 Caravel has the original Bowen water heater.  While camping this
> week, the plastic control knob broke.  I need a replacement.  Does anyone
> have an old heater with a knob I could purchase, or any other ideas.  The
> water heater works fine and does not leak .
> Thanks,
> Whit--- Original .com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 07:48:17 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes

Hi all,

Thanks for the many thoughts on the smell.

In hopes of adding to everyone's store of knowledge on this 
sordid subject, I will explain further.

I climbed up on the roof to chase leaks, and discovered that 
the vent to the black tank is doing its job.

I crawled around inside the bathroom, ( well, inched around 
) and see no reason to suspect the vent attachment place, or 
any leak in the tank itself. And I will add that the seal at 
the base of the toilet bowl was holding just fine.

The base of the toilet, where it attaches to the tank, is my 
new suspect. What a dreadful job. The reasoning behind this 
is that it only smells right after I sit on the WC, my 
weight is apparently flexing things enough to let some 
gasses escape. ( No rude comments, please.:}) When I get to 
a place that has a sewer hook up, I will start on that 
project and thoroughly clean the tank. And I will probably 
consider some of the recommended tank additives. ( but not 
the aerator unless it comes solar powered.)

Both Hunter and I have considered using the Sewer Solution 
gismo, she actually has one. We are both parked far from the 
outlet to one sewer here, and too low to pump up to the 
other.  We would need over 100' of 3/4 hose to get there. We 
also had some reservations about adding that much liquid to 
a sewer system that was put in in the 70's.

Since the sewer outlet is below our beloved hostess' bedroom 
window, we have other reasons not to go this route.

Since Hunter has a bigger tank than I do, my bucket brigade 
was just to get me to when we both go and dump.

  As for the blue boy, I have two little ones, but they are 
harder both to fill and to empty than a pail. I used to have 
the big towable one, but it is not roadworthy enough to get 
to a  dump site outside of a campground, and besides, the 
two times I used it, people fell over laughing when I towed 
it behind Darth Vader ( long bed, stretch cab turbo diesel 
black Dodge 4x4 Pickup ).

On the subject of tank contents, since I don't put TP in 
there, the great pyramid has not been a problem. When I hit 
the road on May 2, I will probably put a few trays of ice 
cubes in there to work.

Thanks to you all,

Daisy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 07:59:58 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes

Thanks to you Forrest, I think you hit the nail on the "head".

Daisy

  I believe the ring
> should be replaced periodically. Also, the toilet flange bolts may have
> backed off a bit, so try tightening them carefully - they should be snug,
> but over tightening them can crack the base of the toilet, closet flange or
> holding tank.
> 
> Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 05:25:57 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bowen Water Heater

    Whit,

    I have an old spare Bowen heater that I'd be pleased to send parts to
you from.  Send me the model number of yours or even better, a digital image
of the part in question and maybe we can bring yours back to good operating
condition.  

    Glyn

> From: "wwyatt" <wwyatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 06:17:53 -0400
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Bowen Water Heater
> 
> --
> My 1965 Caravel has the original Bowen water heater.  While camping this
> week, the plastic control knob broke.  I need a replacement.  Does anyone
> have an old heater with a knob I could purchase, or any other ideas.  The
> water heater works fine and does not leak .
> Thanks,
> Whit--- Original .com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
> 
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 08:43:55 EDT
From: HHamp5246@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes

In a message dated 4/25/2005 7:49:05 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net writes:


> On the subject of tank contents, since I don't put TP in 
> there, the great pyramid has not been a problem.

Daisy,

The black pyramid isn't toilet paper <g>

Hunter

http://members.aol.com/ILuvBrady/summer2004.htm

Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well-preserved body,
but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "...holy 
shit...what a ride!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 08:59:40 -0400
From: Rich Luhr <rich@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Sprint/Verizon in Springfield MO

Hi Dave

Yes, we will be using Sprint for Internet service in Springfield.  The 
Internet-in-Motion box I have is set up exclusively for Sprint service 
at the moment.

According to the Verizon coverage maps (which I acknowledge are often 
works of fantasy), Verizon does indeed offer digital service in 
Springfield.  It is "extended digital" which means Verizon is roaming 
on someone else's network.  Their high-speed "1X" Internet service 
won't work in such coverage areas, but you should be able to make 
digital voice calls with no problem.  You may be able to connect to the 
Internet at 19.2 kbps, if you can stand the pain.

Sprint offers digital service in Springfield as well, on their own 
network -- if you stay close to the Interstate highways.  The system we 
are using is a full 3-watt transmitter with a very good rooftop 
antenna, so it will typically do better than handheld mobile phones.  
I'm optimistic.

If you have personal experience with the quality of Verizon's signal in 
the Springfield area, I'd be interested to hear about it.  We rely on 
Verizon for business calls while traveling and if the phone goes to 
analog frequently I'll need a spare battery.

- -- Rich


On Apr 25, 2005, at 2:00 AM, VAL Digest wrote:

> Rich,
>
> Have you checked the Sprint coverage map, as Verizon doesn't offer
> digital service in Springfield....
>
> Dave

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 09:36:05 -0500
From: "J. Anderson" <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Campers Choice Rumors of Demise?

Just got an email today telling me that one of my favorite on-line 
sources of RV stuff, "Campers Choice" is terminating their catalog and 
internet business.  The message came from......"Camping World."   And, 
when I go to my Campers Choice bookmark, the Camping World website opens!

Does anyone know the rest of the story?  I hate to see a good source 
fold up and die; plus CW needs the competition.

Thanks--
John Anderson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 10:39:05 -0700
From: "Colin Hyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Aluminum Wiring - What Years?

> Does anyone know what years Airstream used Aluminum wiring for the 110
> volt AC?

Dave,
I have a 66 Safari in my shop at the moment that has copper wiring for the
AC current. I also have a 68 Caravel that has aluminum wiring for the AC
current along with aluminum wiring for the 12 v dc interior wiring.
Colin Hyde
GSM Vehicles Inc
WBCCI, VAC 10247

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 08:52:37 -0600
From: "Forrest McClure" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Vent pipes

You're welcome, Daisy. Hopefully, when you're ready to remove & replace the
ring you won't run into what may be a common problem. In one of my postings
a few months ago I noted that I couldn't get the toilet loose from the
closet flange because I thought the PO had substituted silicone adhesive in
place of the rubber & wax bowl ring. Yesterday, I was talking to one of our
members who was having a similar problem removing his toilet, and now I
wonder if the silicone adhesive was something either done at the factory or
commonly done by service techs? I can visualize the factory doing this
either because there was a shortage of bowl rings, or perhaps it was thought
that the best way to prevent leaks and escaping sewer gas at the base of the
toilet was to completely glue it in place.

Daisy, if your toilet has been similarly glued down you may be faced with a
dilemma. I was finally able to get the toilet loose only because the plywood
floor was completely rotted away and could turn the entire toilet to unscrew
the flange from the holding tank, but likely your floor is solid and if it
is you will be stuck - literally. So, I'll put it to the list - does anyone
have any suggestions on getting a toilet loose when it has been glued down
with silicone adhesive, short of destroying either the toilet, the floor,
and/or the holding tank to do so?

Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 08:51:16 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Aluminum Wiring - What Years?

On Sun, 2005-04-24 at 22:42 -0500, J. Anderson wrote:
> To  muddy the waters a bit more, my 1966 Sovereign has all copper; I 
> have found no aluminum wiring anywhere in it.  Does it depend on where 
> it was built?  Mine was built in Jackson Ohio.
> 
> John Anderson
Timing may well have been affected by location. My '68 Caravel was built
in Ohio.

- -- 
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 08:57:06 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Replacing wheels

On Sun, 2005-04-24 at 20:57 -0700, William Kerfoot wrote:
> I am replacing the split rims on a 1954 Liner.  The existing drums have 
> a locating pin for the wheels.  Does anyone know if this pin is just 
> pressed into the drum or if I need to cut the pin off?  The new wheels 
> do not have a hole for the locating pin.
> 
> Bill Kerfoot
> WBCCI/VAC #5223

My '65 F-350 has those locating pins on the rear drums to line up the
duals (also split rims).

i suspect the pin is probably pressed in, but most likely the magnetic
brake plate is on the inside of the drum in the way of pushing the pin
on in. I know on my Caravel that is the problem with replacing a broken
wheel stud. That brake plate has to be unriveted first. Been there,
tried it without taking the brake plate out. Had to hire a machine shop
to bend the drum back true.

I guess I'd be inclined to attack that protruding pin with a die grinder
and cutoff wheel to cut it flush. Though since the drum is probably not
all that well balanced, leaving the pin and drilling a hole in the wheel
to locate the wheel in a consistent position might be handy in keeping
the assembly balanced after its been spin balanced in place. Though a
tire shop jockey won't understand the pin and the hole and a splash of
yellow paint would come closer to getting that reassembly aligned than
the pin.
- -- 
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 09:32:35 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes

On Mon, 2005-04-25 at 08:43 -0400, HHamp5246@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/25/2005 7:49:05 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net writes:
> 
> 
> > On the subject of tank contents, since I don't put TP in 
> > there, the great pyramid has not been a problem.
> 
> Daisy,
> 
> The black pyramid isn't toilet paper <g>
> 
> Hunter
Though adding TP will strengthen the pyramid.

- -- 
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 11:36:17 -0700
From: "Colin Hyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes

> Though adding TP will strengthen the pyramid.

Papier mache pyramid....................hey look, a new science project!
Sorry Daisy

Colin Hyde

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 10:44:45 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <pattersontom@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] AOl subscribers

I am sorry, but it appears that most of the messages now going out to AOL
subscribers are now starting to bounce as undeliverable.  Most of you on the
digest likely have not seen too many digests lately.

The individual mail recipients are getting some of their messages, but not
all.

This is getting to be a real PITA for me.  There were four postings to the
list just now, and 45 messages bounced back into my mailbox.

I strongly suggest that AOL subscribers (and this includes compuserve, and
netscape subscribers as they are owned by AOL) start looking for a different
ISP for your mail from this list.  This does not mean you need to drop AOL,
but you do need to open a mail account with someone other than AOL for your
list subscription, and have that account forwarded to you.  You might try
Yahoo, or someone similar.

I am going to start removing AOL subscribers whose mail continually bounces
from the list.  I cannot continue to have my mailbox filled up with messages
being bounced by AOL for some unknown reason.

- -Tom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 12:01:19 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Campers Choice Rumors of Demise?

 From Camper Choice web site:
As you may be aware, effective April 22, Camper's Choice has elected to 
close its catalog and Internet business. Camper's Choice is working with 
Camping World to ensure that your RV accessory and supply needs continue to 
be met. You are a valuable customer and both companies want to ensure that 
you are taken care of. Thank You!

>Just got an email today telling me that one of my favorite on-line sources 
>of RV stuff, "Campers Choice" is terminating their catalog and internet 
>business.  The message came from......"Camping World."   And, when I go to 
>my Campers Choice bookmark, the Camping World website opens!
>
>Does anyone know the rest of the story?  I hate to see a good source fold 
>up and die; plus CW needs the competition.
>
>Thanks--
>John Anderson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 11:34:02 -0600
From: walt054@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: [VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream

Howdy all,
           I'm still in need of a framed side window for a 1968 Land 
Yaught..... 40.75X 22.25
Thanks
Jim                walt054@xxxxxxxxxx.net       303-912-2170

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 14:04:41 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes

Pump the contents out of the Sewer Solution into your buckets, then dump 
them into a toilet.

Any chance you can locate a 'food grade' big barrel?  They are used for 
stuff like Coca-Cola syrup and other liquids AND they are lined with plastic 
bonded to the containers.  Or, you could buy a used plastic barrel, put it 
into the back of your truck and dump the buckets out of the Sewer Solution 
hose until your tank is finally empty.

After you empty it out, use chemicals to keep your seat smelling sweet - the 
chemicals come in all kinds of flavors depending on who makes them.

I doubt your toilet is glued to the floor/tank top.  Is the base of the 
toilet sitting ON the floor or is it below the floor line?  If it's below 
the floor line it might be glued directly to the tank but that would be a 
stupid way to install a toilet - sitting onto the top of a tank.  What's to 
stop the toilet from crashing into the 'pyramid' if that's the way it's 
installed?

You may want to install a harness to keep yourself OUT of the black tank 
should the toilet fall through the friggin' floor!

Tom



- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Daisy Welch" <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2005 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes


> Hi all,
>
> Thanks for the many thoughts on the smell.
>
> In hopes of adding to everyone's store of knowledge on this sordid 
> subject, I will explain further.
>
> I climbed up on the roof to chase leaks, and discovered that the vent to 
> the black tank is doing its job.
>
> I crawled around inside the bathroom, ( well, inched around ) and see no 
> reason to suspect the vent attachment place, or any leak in the tank 
> itself. And I will add that the seal at the base of the toilet bowl was 
> holding just fine.
>
> The base of the toilet, where it attaches to the tank, is my new suspect. 
> What a dreadful job. The reasoning behind this is that it only smells 
> right after I sit on the WC, my weight is apparently flexing things enough 
> to let some gasses escape. ( No rude comments, please.:}) When I get to a 
> place that has a sewer hook up, I will start on that project and 
> thoroughly clean the tank. And I will probably consider some of the 
> recommended tank additives. ( but not the aerator unless it comes solar 
> powered.)
>
> Both Hunter and I have considered using the Sewer Solution gismo, she 
> actually has one. We are both parked far from the outlet to one sewer 
> here, and too low to pump up to the other.  We would need over 100' of 3/4 
> hose to get there. We also had some reservations about adding that much 
> liquid to a sewer system that was put in in the 70's.
>
> Since the sewer outlet is below our beloved hostess' bedroom window, we 
> have other reasons not to go this route.
>
> Since Hunter has a bigger tank than I do, my bucket brigade was just to 
> get me to when we both go and dump.
>
>  As for the blue boy, I have two little ones, but they are harder both to 
> fill and to empty than a pail. I used to have the big towable one, but it 
> is not roadworthy enough to get to a  dump site outside of a campground, 
> and besides, the two times I used it, people fell over laughing when I 
> towed it behind Darth Vader ( long bed, stretch cab turbo diesel black 
> Dodge 4x4 Pickup ).
>
> On the subject of tank contents, since I don't put TP in there, the great 
> pyramid has not been a problem. When I hit the road on May 2, I will 
> probably put a few trays of ice cubes in there to work.
>
> Thanks to you all,
>
> Daisy
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with 
> Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 11:33:41 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream

> Howdy all,
>            I'm still in need of a framed side window for a 1968 Land
> Yaught..... 40.75X 22.25
> Thanks
> Jim                walt054@xxxxxxxxxx.net       303-912-2170

Hi Jim:

What is the trailer size?  The reason I ask is that you are asking for an
odd sized glass.  Most of the '68 windows are about 20 1/2" high.  However,I
don't have much experience with the very big trailers.  For instance, the
largest window in my '67 Safari 22 is 39" wide x 20 1/2" high.  The others
are 20 1/2" high too. The windows should be the same size in '68.  The main
difference is that a stainless trim edge was added in '68 but the glass
should be the same size.

As far as wanting to get a glass one, you probably should get some Lexan cut
in the meantime, cuz I think you are in for a long wait.  These panes are
scarce and very pricey if you can get them at all.

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 14:34:14 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Bumper sticker

    Couldn't remember all that requested a bumper sticker.
But they will be mailed out this week. One each with the following phrase:

"I need this truck to pull my Airstream"

"If you can read this I must have
 left my Airstream somewhere!!!!!!!!

They are 4"X14" blue letters white background on 3M 220 vinyl with abrasive
guard on top.

Bobby

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 12:13:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: pamela <gypsylady624@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Campers Choice Rumors of Demise?

Yep! One of our group owners over at rvrsunder55 works for Campers World and 
gave us the heads  up on this one , its true!

Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:From Camper Choice web site:
As you may be aware, effective April 22, Camper's Choice has elected to 
close its catalog and Internet business. Camper's Choice is working with 
Camping World to ensure that your RV accessory and supply needs continue to 
be met. You are a valuable customer and both companies want to ensure that 
you are taken care of. Thank You!

>Just got an email today telling me that one of my favorite on-line sources 
>of RV stuff, "Campers Choice" is terminating their catalog and internet 
>business. The message came from......"Camping World." And, when I go to 
>my Campers Choice bookmark, the Camping World website opens!
>
>Does anyone know the rest of the story? I hate to see a good source fold 
>up and die; plus CW needs the competition.
>
>Thanks--
>John Anderson




		
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- -----------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.

When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text

To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 12:20:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: pamela <gypsylady624@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Aluminum Wiring - What Years?

Kinda sounds like we may not now what we have till we get into it right? Mine 
is a 72 Soviern 31 ft I dont now yet what wiring it has but I do have the 
schematics thanks to one of our kind members on this list!
Pam

Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
On Sun, 2005-04-24 at 22:42 -0500, J. Anderson wrote:
> To muddy the waters a bit more, my 1966 Sovereign has all copper; I 
> have found no aluminum wiring anywhere in it. Does it depend on where 
> it was built? Mine was built in Jackson Ohio.
> 
> John Anderson
Timing may well have been affected by location. My '68 Caravel was built
in Ohio.

- -- 
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.



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- -----------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.

When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text

To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 15:22:16 -0700
From: "Colin Hyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream

> As far as wanting to get a glass one, you probably should get some Lexan
cut
> in the meantime, cuz I think you are in for a long wait.  These panes are
> scarce and very pricey if you can get them at all.
>
> GQ '67 Safari
> 4082 in CA

They are being reproduced at the moment by www.airstreamdreams.com at
reasonable prices.

Colin Hyde

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 13:55:43 -0600
From: "Forrest McClure" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream

Jim,

Do you mean to say that you need the glass, the window frame, opener and
holding clips or just the glass? The glass can be ordered through
Airstreamdreams.com

Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 14:58:37 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Aluminum Wiring - What Years?

On Mon, 2005-04-25 at 12:20 -0700, pamela wrote:
> Kinda sounds like we may not now what we have till we get into it 
right? Mine is a 72 Soviern 31 ft I don't now yet what wiring it has but 
I do have the schematics thanks to one of our kind members on this list!
> Pam
In my Caravel, the romex is visible leaving the breaker box that is
accessed from outside on the left side next to where the battery used to
sit. And a length off that romex comes into the front upper cupboard for
supplying power to a 12 volt radio, close to where the antenna wire
comes in. In both places the aluminum romex jacket is painted aluminum
color and is stamped "aluminum." That one in the upper front cupboard is
cut off square and the aluminum conductor color is quite visible on the
end.

Failing that, one can pull the cover off a wall receptacle and look for
fat aluminum colored conductors going to the screws on the receptacle.


- -- 
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 17:20:24 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.

    All,

    Well, I've read about it but never experienced it until two days ago
when began to try to find what appears to be 7/16" copper tubing for a patch
in my hot water line.

    My '69 Caravel spent all its life in Oregon and must have gone through
at least one freeze with water in the lines.  Someone cut out a bad piece
where apparently it had split and tried to patch it with hard Nylon tubing,
relying upon a hose clamp at either end to barely hold it on the bad fit.

    Right now I'm OK for the moment, having replaced that patch with one of
my own using reinforced Vinyl tubing pushed well onto the 7/16" copper
tubing.  But what I really want is to repair it with another piece of that
same tubing but the trouble is that I can't find at any of the local haunts.
Can someone tell me if it's available anywhere?  If so, are there sweat
couplings made for it  or will I need to use compression fittings for the
patch?  All in the world I need is about 12" of the stuff.

    Thanks,

    Glyn   

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 17:36:01 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Metal toilet ring

    All,

    I also need to remove the toilet so I can remove the holding tank, so I
can access some 1/2" copper tubing that split also.   In addition, I need to
gain access to the marker and stop light wires but that tank is in the way.

    There are four badly rusted screws that hold the metal ring under the
toilet that I seem to have drilled out yet I still can't get the ring to
budge.  I also see a couple of rusted blobs where the 1/4-20 vertical bronze
slide into place.  Are there four or six screws that I need to deal with?
Also are those rings commonly available or should I treat it like the Crown
Jewels?

    Thanks,

    Glyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 21:09:01 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes

I know, but it is the mortar thereof.
D
> 
> Daisy,
> 
> The black pyramid isn't toilet paper <g>
> 
> Hunter

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 21:17:45 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes

that's Ok al long as I get to paint it....

Daisy

Colin Hyde wrote:

>>Though adding TP will strengthen the pyramid.
> 
> 
> Papier mache pyramid....................hey look, a new science project!
> Sorry Daisy
> 
> Colin Hyde

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 18:50:56 -0700
From: Craig Toutolmin <craig@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.

Hi Glyn,

See how a section of 1/2" type L fits over the existing tubing.  I used 
it for
a sweat coupling in my trailer ('59 Traveler) to fix the same problem.

Craig
On Apr 25, 2005, at 5:20 PM, Glyn Judson wrote:

>     All,
>
>     Well, I've read about it but never experienced it until two days 
> ago
> when began to try to find what appears to be 7/16" copper tubing for a 
> patch
> in my hot water line.
>
>     My '69 Caravel spent all its life in Oregon and must have gone 
> through
> at least one freeze with water in the lines.  Someone cut out a bad 
> piece
> where apparently it had split and tried to patch it with hard Nylon 
> tubing,
> relying upon a hose clamp at either end to barely hold it on the bad 
> fit.
>
>     Right now I'm OK for the moment, having replaced that patch with 
> one of
> my own using reinforced Vinyl tubing pushed well onto the 7/16" copper
> tubing.  But what I really want is to repair it with another piece of 
> that
> same tubing but the trouble is that I can't find at any of the local 
> haunts.
> Can someone tell me if it's available anywhere?  If so, are there sweat
> couplings made for it  or will I need to use compression fittings for 
> the
> patch?  All in the world I need is about 12" of the stuff.
>
>     Thanks,
>
>     Glyn
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with 
> Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 18:56:38 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.

    Craig,

    I'll go out and check that out tomorrow, thanks.

    This brings up another thought.  Do any of you good folks have a 12-15"
length of used 7/16" tubing I could buy?  That way I could use compression
fittings as a second option.

    Regards,

    Glyn

> From: Craig Toutolmin <craig@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 18:50:56 -0700
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.
> 
> Hi Glyn,
> 
> See how a section of 1/2" type L fits over the existing tubing.  I used
> it for
> a sweat coupling in my trailer ('59 Traveler) to fix the same problem.
> 
> Craig
> On Apr 25, 2005, at 5:20 PM, Glyn Judson wrote:
> 
>> All,
>> 
>> Well, I've read about it but never experienced it until two days
>> ago
>> when began to try to find what appears to be 7/16" copper tubing for a
>> patch
>> in my hot water line.
>> 
>> My '69 Caravel spent all its life in Oregon and must have gone
>> through
>> at least one freeze with water in the lines.  Someone cut out a bad
>> piece
>> where apparently it had split and tried to patch it with hard Nylon
>> tubing,
>> relying upon a hose clamp at either end to barely hold it on the bad
>> fit.
>> 
>> Right now I'm OK for the moment, having replaced that patch with
>> one of
>> my own using reinforced Vinyl tubing pushed well onto the 7/16" copper
>> tubing.  But what I really want is to repair it with another piece of
>> that
>> same tubing but the trouble is that I can't find at any of the local
>> haunts.
>> Can someone tell me if it's available anywhere?  If so, are there sweat
>> couplings made for it  or will I need to use compression fittings for
>> the
>> patch?  All in the world I need is about 12" of the stuff.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Glyn
>> 
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with
>> Airstream
>> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>> 
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>> 
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
> 
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:22:57 +0000
From: estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: [VAL] Daisy - sanitation - hoses etc.

> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2005 19:47:03 -0400 
> From: Daisy Welch 
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes 
> 
> Empty the black tank daily (rinse 
> > occasionally). 
>-----------------
Daisy - Glyn's information regarding the use of simple bacterial products - 
like those found at West Marine - is the way to go.  

Maybe it's my allergies - but the idea of a holding tank inside a boat hull 
(or under an aluminum trailer) full of overly perfumed sewage - in hot 
weather....is beyond my stomachs ability.  I've stepped inside way too many 
boats that reeked of deodorizer...when the human product it was masking  might 
be a little less potent in the first place...

When I rebuilt the head and installed a holding tank system in my 1935 
Sportfisherman - I was very careful to research the proper materials that were 
used in the tank AND the hoses - as well as the simple product I placed in the 
tank to help break down the waste.

Make sure any vent hoses that are attached to your system are designed to prevent 
the transfer of odor THROUGH the sidewalls.  There IS a difference in hose design.  
I really recommend that you pay a visit to a marine store or marine sanitation 
sales facility - you'll learn a lot about what materials to use and what to stay 
away from.  It's all about holding the "material" properly - and keeping odors as 
low as possible.

I used an extremely simple product to add to my tank - a simple beige looking dry 
coarse powder...it took a tiny amount - and there was never a smell inside my boat 
from the sewage or the product used to treat it. True - I had the benefit of the 
movement of the hull in the water.

You may have to work out a way to get rid of your sediment build up first.

Being in Florida - you are in a great zone to research trailer maintenance via the 
boat maintenance market...!  I always have found a marine parts store much more 
interesting for products and ideas than the typical RV supply store.  If for no other 
reason than the environment a boat HAS to survive in...is typically much harsher than 
a trailer unless you live in a flood prone area...

RL

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 20:57:24 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Daisy - sanitation - hoses etc.

    RL & Daisy,

    I've had a lot of experience with head treatments and using the product
I referenced before, Odorlos, can tell you that despite odor-blocking hoses
being available (and expensive), if one just uses that stuff, ALL odors will
go away regardless of the material of the vent pipes, etc.  The stuff is so
darned cheap that I'd encourage any of you concerned with head odors aboard
to pick up some and give it a try this summer.

    I guarantee you'll become converts and wonder to yourselves why you'd
not heard of this stuff years ago.

    Again, I have no economic interest in the product, I just want to pass
on what I've learned to those who've not yet heard of it.

    I'm on a couple of sailboat lists and every year there are those who
give advise to others to use these expensive hoses, etc. and none of it's
necessary but they persist in pouring good money after bad with all the odor
masking ideas they can thing of.  Well if it makes them happy I guess
there's not harm, it's just that there's no need.

    Glyn

> From: estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:22:57 +0000
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Daisy - sanitation - hoses etc.
> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2005 19:47:03 -0400
>> From: Daisy Welch
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent pipes
>> 
>> Empty the black tank daily (rinse
>>> occasionally). 
>> -----------------
> Daisy - Glyn's information regarding the use of simple bacterial products -
> like those found at West Marine - is the way to go.
> 
> Maybe it's my allergies - but the idea of a holding tank inside a boat hull
> (or under an aluminum trailer) full of overly perfumed sewage - in hot
> weather....is beyond my stomachs ability.  I've stepped inside way too many
> boats that reeked of deodorizer...when the human product it was masking  might
> be a little less potent in the first place...
> 
> When I rebuilt the head and installed a holding tank system in my 1935
> Sportfisherman - I was very careful to research the proper materials that were
> used in the tank AND the hoses - as well as the simple product I placed in the
> tank to help break down the waste.
> 
> Make sure any vent hoses that are attached to your system are designed to
> prevent the transfer of odor THROUGH the sidewalls.  There IS a difference in
> hose design.  I really recommend that you pay a visit to a marine store or
> marine sanitation sales facility - you'll learn a lot about what materials to
> use and what to stay away from.  It's all about holding the "material"
> properly - and keeping odors as low as possible.
> 
> I used an extremely simple product to add to my tank - a simple beige looking
> dry coarse powder...it took a tiny amount - and there was never a smell inside
> my boat from the sewage or the product used to treat it. True - I had the
> benefit of the movement of the hull in the water.
> 
> You may have to work out a way to get rid of your sediment build up first.
> 
> Being in Florida - you are in a great zone to research trailer maintenance via
> the boat maintenance market...!  I always have found a marine parts store much
> more interesting for products and ideas than the typical RV supply store.  If
> for no other reason than the environment a boat HAS to survive in...is
> typically much harsher than a trailer unless you live in a flood prone area...
> 
> RL
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
> 
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 22:01:03 -0600
From: "phelock" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Need side window for 1968 Airstream

I have a side window from a 1966 Trade Wind.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 21:47:29 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.

On Mon, 2005-04-25 at 17:20 -0700, Glyn Judson wrote:
>     All,
> 
>     Well, I've read about it but never experienced it until two days ago
> when began to try to find what appears to be 7/16" copper tubing for a patch
> in my hot water line.
> 
>     My '69 Caravel spent all its life in Oregon and must have gone through
> at least one freeze with water in the lines.  Someone cut out a bad piece
> where apparently it had split and tried to patch it with hard Nylon tubing,
> relying upon a hose clamp at either end to barely hold it on the bad fit.
> 
>     Right now I'm OK for the moment, having replaced that patch with one of
> my own using reinforced Vinyl tubing pushed well onto the 7/16" copper
> tubing.  But what I really want is to repair it with another piece of that
> same tubing but the trouble is that I can't find at any of the local haunts.
> Can someone tell me if it's available anywhere?  If so, are there sweat
> couplings made for it  or will I need to use compression fittings for the
> patch?  All in the world I need is about 12" of the stuff.
> 
>     Thanks,
> 
>     Glyn   
According to my McMaster-Carr catalog, 7/16" OD is not a normal size for
copper tubing or water pipe.

However type L in 3/8" tube size, actually 1/2" OD is 0.440" id (a SNUG
fit on 7/16" at 0.4375") and type M has an ID of 0.450" which would be a
loose fit on true 7/16", a tough fit if the tube is 7/16" the result of
freezing. You might need a micrometer or a dial vernier to be more sure
of the diameter when looking for something to use as a sweat coupling.

Most hobby shops (and McMaster-Carr) carry the K&S Engineering line of
brass tubing which comes in 1/32" steps from 3/32" OD up to 1/2" OD. Its
wall is less than 1/64" so it might be a little weak used single wall
for a water pipe splice, but it might make a round shim to fit a
standard size fitting. Each size fits in the next larger size.

I don't see any connectors for 7/16" OD tubing, copper or brass, sweat,
flare or compression, in McMaster-Carr.
- -- 
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 22:06:15 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Metal toilet ring

On Mon, 2005-04-25 at 17:36 -0700, Glyn Judson wrote:
<SNIP>
>     There are four badly rusted screws that hold the metal ring under the
> toilet that I seem to have drilled out yet I still can't get the ring to
> budge.  I also see a couple of rusted blobs where the 1/4-20 vertical bronze
> slide into place.  Are there four or six screws that I need to deal with?
> Also are those rings commonly available or should I treat it like the Crown
> Jewels?
> 
>     Thanks,
> 
>     Glyn
A few years ago I took apart a fiberglass satellite dish where the bolts
and nuts appeared to be only mounds of rust. I used PB Blaster on them
and they all came apart peaceably. Around the farm I use Kroil, which I
think is better, but PB Blaster was good that one time I didn't have
Kroil handy and PB Blaster is often found at Walmart. Kroil is rarely
found except by ordering from Kano Labs direct.


- -- 
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 21:11:50 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.

    Gerald,

    Thanks again, I always forget to consult my Mc Master-Carr catalog that
I even have within reach of my desk.

    The only reason I know it's 7/16" is that I found some compression
fittings at the hardware store today but they didn't have or carry 7/16"
tubing.  The box in the drawer read 7/16" so I know I'm right on that count.

    I'll take Craig's suggestion and revisit the hardware store to get a
short length of the 1/2" type L tubing.

    Thanks to the both of you,

    Glyn

    

> From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 21:47:29 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Oddball tubing size.
> 
> On Mon, 2005-04-25 at 17:20 -0700, Glyn Judson wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>> Well, I've read about it but never experienced it until two days ago
>> when began to try to find what appears to be 7/16" copper tubing for a patch
>> in my hot water line.
>> 
>> My '69 Caravel spent all its life in Oregon and must have gone through
>> at least one freeze with water in the lines.  Someone cut out a bad piece
>> where apparently it had split and tried to patch it with hard Nylon tubing,
>> relying upon a hose clamp at either end to barely hold it on the bad fit.
>> 
>> Right now I'm OK for the moment, having replaced that patch with one of
>> my own using reinforced Vinyl tubing pushed well onto the 7/16" copper
>> tubing.  But what I really want is to repair it with another piece of that
>> same tubing but the trouble is that I can't find at any of the local haunts.
>> Can someone tell me if it's available anywhere?  If so, are there sweat
>> couplings made for it  or will I need to use compression fittings for the
>> patch?  All in the world I need is about 12" of the stuff.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Glyn   
> According to my McMaster-Carr catalog, 7/16" OD is not a normal size for
> copper tubing or water pipe.
> 
> However type L in 3/8" tube size, actually 1/2" OD is 0.440" id (a SNUG
> fit on 7/16" at 0.4375") and type M has an ID of 0.450" which would be a
> loose fit on true 7/16", a tough fit if the tube is 7/16" the result of
> freezing. You might need a micrometer or a dial vernier to be more sure
> of the diameter when looking for something to use as a sweat coupling.
> 
> Most hobby shops (and McMaster-Carr) carry the K&S Engineering line of
> brass tubing which comes in 1/32" steps from 3/32" OD up to 1/2" OD. Its
> wall is less than 1/64" so it might be a little weak used single wall
> for a water pipe splice, but it might make a round shim to fit a
> standard size fitting. Each size fits in the next larger size.
> 
> I don't see any connectors for 7/16" OD tubing, copper or brass, sweat,
> flare or compression, in McMaster-Carr.
> -- 
> Gerald J.
> Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
> WBCCI #5623, VAC
> All content copyright.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
> 
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 21:13:13 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Metal toilet ring

    Gerald,

    Thank you my friend.  Do you know if these rings are readily available
at RV supply outlets?

    Glyn

> From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 22:06:15 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Metal toilet ring
> 
> On Mon, 2005-04-25 at 17:36 -0700, Glyn Judson wrote:
> <SNIP>
>> There are four badly rusted screws that hold the metal ring under the
>> toilet that I seem to have drilled out yet I still can't get the ring to
>> budge.  I also see a couple of rusted blobs where the 1/4-20 vertical bronze
>> slide into place.  Are there four or six screws that I need to deal with?
>> Also are those rings commonly available or should I treat it like the Crown
>> Jewels?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Glyn
> A few years ago I took apart a fiberglass satellite dish where the bolts
> and nuts appeared to be only mounds of rust. I used PB Blaster on them
> and they all came apart peaceably. Around the farm I use Kroil, which I
> think is better, but PB Blaster was good that one time I didn't have
> Kroil handy and PB Blaster is often found at Walmart. Kroil is rarely
> found except by ordering from Kano Labs direct.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Gerald J.
> Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
> WBCCI #5623, VAC
> All content copyright.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
> 
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 01:03:44 -0400
From: "kodiak66joe" <kodiak66joe@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Campers Choice Rumors of Demise?

Say it isn't so.  I need a new lamp assembly (the old one has rusted to 
pieces) for the sewer hookup area for our '85 Sovereign (yeah I know - not 
yet vintage, but this part may also have been used on "vintage" 70's 
Airstreams).  The lamp has a white domed lens, half covered by a chrome 
cover, all mounted to a 2.5" x 1.75" mounting plate that ends up attached to 
the trailer by two screws.  This same lamp is also used over/next to the 
steps on the Sovereign.  The only place I found a lamp that appeared a close 
match was the Campers Choice Web Site, but I was waiting until the trailer 
came out of winter hibernation (soon, but not quite yet as we had several 
inches of snow this weekend in Michigan) to place the order in case I came 
up with any other parts needs.

Anyone know where I might find such a lamp now that Campers Choice is gone? 
The Camping World web site never had anything even close.

Joe
------- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Patterson"

From Camper Choice web site:
As you may be aware, effective April 22, Camper's Choice has elected to
close its catalog and Internet business. Camper's Choice is working with
Camping World to ensure that your RV accessory and supply needs continue to
be met. You are a valuable customer and both companies want to ensure that
you are taken care of. Thank You!

>Just got an email today telling me that one of my favorite on-line sources
>of RV stuff, "Campers Choice" is terminating their catalog and internet
>business.  The message came from......"Camping World."   And, when I go to
>my Campers Choice bookmark, the Camping World website opens!
>
>Does anyone know the rest of the story?  I hate to see a good source fold
>up and die; plus CW needs the competition.
>
>Thanks--
>John Anderson 

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V2 #229
*************************


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