VAL Digest V2 #209

VAL Digest          Wednesday, April 6 2005          Volume 02 : Number 209




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Ford Truck
[VAL] test
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #208
Re: [VAL] Description Needed
Re: [VAL] battery isolators
Re: [VAL] battery isolators

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Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 23:04:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: 3PR <threepeaksranch@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Ford Truck

Check out fordenthusiast.com, something like that.
This is for Airstreams:)
- --- VAL Digest <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:

> VAL Digest           Tuesday, April 5 2005          
> Volume 02 : Number 208
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated
> in any way with Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary Digest text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please
> go to
>
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> Topics in Today's Digest:
> 
> [VAL] water inlet
> [VAL] Ford Truck "Door Ajar" stuck
> Re: [VAL] water inlet
> Re: [VAL] Ford Truck "Door Ajar" stuck
> Re: [VAL] water inlet
> Re: [VAL] Ford Truck "Door Ajar" stuck
> Re: [VAL] water inlet
> Re: [VAL] water inlet
> Re: [VAL] Re: Water Tank Damaging Top of Truck
> Re: [VAL] Ford Truck "Door Ajar" stuck
> [VAL] battery isolators
> 
>
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2005 09:39:15 -0500
> From: "Scott Scheuermann"
> <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
> Subject: [VAL] water inlet
> 
> I have a 1973 Tradewind with the city water inlet by
> the rear bumper. When a
> water hose is not connected and I try to use the
> pump to pressurize the
> water system water sprays out the city water inlet.
> Did Airstream use a
> one-way valve at the inlet, or did they rely on the
> cap to seal the inlet.
> If the cap, does anyone know where to get one?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Scott
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 09:41:48 -0400
> From: Dave Lowrey <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Ford Truck "Door Ajar" stuck
> 
> I have been having intermittent problems with the
> "Door Ajar" indicator 
> staying on, as well as dome lights staying on, with
> my '97 F250.
> 
> After some Googling, I discovered this is a common
> problem with F Series 
> and Expedition trucks.
> 
> The door ajar switch is part of the door latch
> mechanism in the door. It 
> gets grease in the contacts and wont properly ground
> out when you close 
> the door.
> 
> Ford will charge you $180 a door (according to
> several folks on the 
> Internet) to fix it. Fortunately, there is a simple
> and inexpensive 
> solution. Just shoot some WD-40 into the door latch
> mechanism on each 
> door, then open and close the door a few times. It
> may take 2 or 3 
> applications.
> 
> It worked for me the first time!
> 
> Dave
> 
> - -- 
> - -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - WBCCI: 5074
> dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> 
> 1977 31' Sovereign International - Mid Bath
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 08:48:23 -0500
> From: Dean L <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] water inlet
> 
> You need a "Check Valve"  and a "Pressure Regulator"
> connected on the 
> City Water line.
> The check valve is the one way valve and the
> pressure regulator keeps 
> the pressure down to around 40 psi or less.
> Keep in mind that when you build your city water
> inlet the water must 
> drain out when not in use as you don't want it to
> freeze in the winter.
> 
> Dean
> 
> On Apr 1, 2005, at 8:39 AM, Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> 
> > I have a 1973 Tradewind with the city water inlet
> by the rear bumper. 
> > When a
> > water hose is not connected and I try to use the
> pump to pressurize the
> > water system water sprays out the city water
> inlet. Did Airstream use a
> > one-way valve at the inlet, or did they rely on
> the cap to seal the 
> > inlet.
> > If the cap, does anyone know where to get one?
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 06:52:26 -0700
> From: Royce <rkkessler@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Ford Truck "Door Ajar" stuck
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Thanks for the great tip.  I like saving money.  I
> would suggest that you use 
> something other than WD40.  While it is good at
> water displacement it leaves 
> a film that attracts dust and will result over time
> in a real gummy mess when 
> used in a latch mechanism.  The previous owner of my
> Jeep thought WD40 was 
> the best thing for locks and applied regularly.  The
> passanger side cleaned 
> up on the first application of carb cleaner but I
> have attacked the driver 
> side with complete disassembly and carb cleaner
> before it was cleaned up and 
> functioning again.  I have found that G-96 does a
> better job of lube and does 
> not attract dust.  There are many other good dry
> lubes also that would work.  
> My 0.02 worth.
> 
> Royce
> On Monday 04 April 2005 07:41 am, Dave Lowrey wrote:
> > I have been having intermittent problems with the
> "Door Ajar" indicator
> > staying on, as well as dome lights staying on,
> with my '97 F250.
> >
> > After some Googling, I discovered this is a common
> problem with F Series
> > and Expedition trucks.
> >
> > The door ajar switch is part of the door latch
> mechanism in the door. It
> > gets grease in the contacts and wont properly
> ground out when you close
> > the door.
> >
> > Ford will charge you $180 a door (according to
> several folks on the
> > Internet) to fix it. Fortunately, there is a
> simple and inexpensive
> > solution. Just shoot some WD-40 into the door
> latch mechanism on each
> > door, then open and close the door a few times. It
> may take 2 or 3
> > applications.
> >
> > It worked for me the first time!
> >
> > Dave
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 09:02:14 -0500
> From: overlander64 <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] water inlet
> 
> Greetings Scott!
> 
> - -------------------------------------------------
> > I have a 1973 Tradewind with the city water inlet
> by the
> rear bumper. When a water hose is not connected and
> I try to
> use the pump to pressurize the water system water
> sprays 
=== message truncated ===

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Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 09:18:44 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] test

just a test please ignore.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 14:48:36 GMT
From: "maych@xxxxxxxxxx.net" <maych@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #208

I had a 1970 31ft, the check valve was below the sink, as far as the pressure 
regulator you can purchase one that hooks up to the water hydrant and your water 
hose, they are cheaper and serve the same purpose

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 09:26:26 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Description Needed

On Sun, 2005-04-03 at 14:19 -0400, ABLUTIONS@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> In order to buy curtain and shower curtain clips, I need to know what I am  
> looking for/at.... does anyone have a digital photo of these or a couple of  
> extras that I would be more than happy to purchase ?  Have my fabric but am  
> stuck !  No one around here has any idea what to sell me & I can't  really tell 
> them !   The clips on the present curtains are not  original & I really would 
> like them to be as close as possible.

I went to http://www.webstercityrv.com and browsed their on-line catalog
for curtain hardware. I found these. The URLs may have to be pasted to
work they are too long for my screen. The first one is an Airstream
special, then there are large and small sewable. I think the large
sewables are what was used to make new curtains for my '68 Caravel. I've
already needed to replace several. The best place to find them is a
custom drapery shop. They will have very reasonable prices (especially
in bulk) and the widest selection. I have found them at small RV stores
at wildly inflated prices. Difference was something like 27 cents to
$1.95 each.
 
http://www.rvlifestyles.net/Parts.aspx?
Magic=HV3BVX0710140052450&sid=wrdmmw55gxoujb45clf2nl55&id=8170000029805&subcatid=
7540000015017&CategoryNumber=06&DealerID=025001453500

http://www.rvlifestyles.net/Parts.aspx?
Magic=HV3BVX0710140052450&sid=wrdmmw55gxoujb45clf2nl55&id=1400000029800&subcatid=
7540000015017&CategoryNumber=06&DealerID=025001453500

http://www.rvlifestyles.net/Parts.aspx?
Magic=HV3BVX0710140052450&sid=wrdmmw55gxoujb45clf2nl55&id=8720000029804&subcatid=
7540000015017&CategoryNumber=06&DealerID=025001453500

http://www.rvlifestyles.net/Parts.aspx?
Magic=HV3BVX0710140052450&sid=wrdmmw55gxoujb45clf2nl55&id=6610000029809&subcatid=
7540000015017&CategoryNumber=06&DealerID=025001453500
- -- 
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 09:34:42 -0500
From: Gerald <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] battery isolators

On Mon, 2005-04-04 at 23:15 -0500, Daniel Childress wrote:
> Very slow night
> 
> 	Do I need a battery isolator?  If so what size.  Tow vehicle 
> is a 02 Sienna with a tow package.
> Dan
> 14148
You need to check your tow vehicle documentation to be sure but I
suspect it has a relay isolator as part of the tow package. My '98 F-150
does. Otherwise you'd need a BIG isolator probably rated at better than
150 amps and have to wire it with battery cables. Before I discovered I
had the tow package (bought the truck used) I was looking at that and it
didn't look simple. It would probably be simpler to add an oil pressure
operated switch (pipe T at the oil pressure sensor) that would apply
power to a big relay only when the engine was running and go with the
relay isolation scheme.

- -- 
Gerald J.
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
WBCCI #5623, VAC
All content copyright.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 11:29:01 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] battery isolators

Dan,

Very doubtful. In the old days when one stops for the night you 
unplugged the trailer pigtail before plugging into 110V or just because.

These days many tow vehicles with tow packages control the charge line 
with a relay. Ignition off/no voltage on the charge line. Don't know 
about Toyota but the US big three as so equipped.

Charlie

Daniel Childress wrote:

> Very slow night
>
>     Do I need a battery isolator?  If so what size.  Tow vehicle is a 
> 02 Sienna with a tow package.
> Dan
> 14148
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail list is not sponsored by or affiliated in any way with 
> Airstream
> Inc, Thor Inc, the VAC, or the WBCCI.
>
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V2 #209
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