The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V2 #2
VAL Digest Friday, September 10 2004 Volume 02 : Number 002
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] introduction re 65 Caravel
[VAL] door knob--locked inside!
[VAL] flushed down in error :(
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #1
[VAL] placement of CO detector
Re: [VAL] reciever hitch height question
Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
[VAL] [Fwd: Generators]
Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #363
[VAL] Replacement Power Jack?
[VAL] Re: DUMP VALVE
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #1
Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
[VAL] RE: 67 safari furnace
[VAL] Dump valve repair - Easier than I thought it would be
[VAL] Small Airstream heating
Re: [VAL] placement of CO detector
Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
Re: [VAL] RE: 67 safari furnace
Re: [VAL] [Fwd: Generators]
Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #1
Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
[VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
[VAL] Solar Battery Charger
Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
RE: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
RE: [VAL] RE: 67 safari furnace
RE: [VAL] placement of CO detector
Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Re: [VAL] [Fwd: Generators]
[VAL] Dr J? a question about heating
Re: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
Re: [VAL] [Fwd: Generators]
Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
[VAL] for sale
RE: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
[VAL] for sale...oops
[VAL] for sale
[VAL] 67 safari furnace
Re: [VAL] Dr J? a question about heating
Re: [VAL] Replacement Power Jack?
Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
Re: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
Re: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
[VAL] 67 safari furnace
RE: [VAL] Dr J? a question about heating
[VAL] 12 volt lights
Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 04:41:29 EDT
From: AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] introduction re 65 Caravel
Hello,
I recently joined this list after purchasing a 65 Caravel. Some of you may
have seen my AS on the AS Forum list. It was for sale in Louisiana. My
husband and I drove to Va. to meet the gentleman who sold us our new pride and joy.
We met him and paid cash in $100 dollar bills in a hotel room. I felt as
though I was doing something I have many times warned my kids against! It's in
very good shape and we've recently embarked on the polishing journey. Although
the interior isn't my taste we'll leave it for a while. I see from the
previous owner that about $2000 was spent on upholstery and window covering a short
time ago.
And now--as written by a previous list member--I'll ask a couple of questions.
Oh-- did anyone see the PBS program last night that featured John Lennon's
jukebox? Oh what memories the music from 1965 brought back (giving away my age
now) I kept thinking of my trailer being brand new the year of that sound.
Ann Dunham
Geneva New York
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 04:44:45 EDT
From: AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
My husband and I have locked ourselves in our 65 Caravel twice. Can anyone
recommend a place where I can purchase a knob that will look similar to the
original? Inland RV posted on another list that I could buy one for $110 that
would need "some modifications." I didn't receive an answer when I asked about
those modifications. Another post stated that I could buy a replacement from
Airstream for $600!!
Ann
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 04:53:43 EDT
From: AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
I was ever so careful to buy a toilet brush that didn't have a "flushable"
head, believing that nothing like that would truly be flushable even in a "real"
toilet and especially not in my trailer. We are new to Rving and made our
initial weekend away last week. I had visions of a wet brush rolling around
while we were on the road so I bought one where you brush and then detach the
head and throw it in the trash. To my horror while I was brushing and helping on
the inside at our initial trip to a dump station I somehow let the head come
off and go into the tank! Now what? I keep thinking of that thing down in
there. Do I have to fill the tank and get under there and try to drain it out
and hope the toilet brush part comes to the hole so I can grab it? Now *that*
sounds like a pleasant job :( Where would I do that? I wonder if the
drainage hole will get blocked. What if it starts smelling? Has anyone else done
something like this?
Any/all ideas appreciated.
Ann
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 06:56:03 -0500
From: "Cathy Townley-McGaughey" <cathytownley@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #1
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "VAL Digest" <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 12:00 AM
Subject: VAL Digest V2 #1
> Don't trust an old furnace. Its suicide and CO is a painful way to go.
> Gerald J.
Excellent points and you have now scared me to death, don't know about rest
of group.
Instead of installing a new furnace could electric heat sources be a good
option for the RV if the climate was not too extreme?
Cathy Townley-McGaughey
'64 International
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 07:02:50 -0500
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] placement of CO detector
Thanks for the important and useful discussion of CO detectors. I'm
wondering where the most effective placement of a detector in an
Airstream will be. CO has a specific gravity of 0.96716. EPA recommends
placement outside bedrooms. Does the specific gravity indeed mean that
CO is lighter than air, and so the detector should be placed high (on
the ceiling, fore the bedroom) or would a location nearer the furnace
be the best bet?
Best,
Chris K.
1979 @31' Sovereign
#8638
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 07:47:12 -0500
From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] reciever hitch height question
Be careful that " elevated ball " is not as strong as a regular heavy
duty ball.
It could break under stress of your trailer load. Hope you are using
Heavy chains.
See You On the Road
Dean & Kay
WBCCI 2486
IOWA
On Sep 8, 2004, at 8:51 AM, Stan Truitt wrote:
> hi roger
> i am not using a load distributing hitch. after my post i relieved that
> someone would check me on my math. i failed to mention that i have a
> high
> rise ball that has an elevated base of about 2". by spinning the hitch
> i
> will gain 4" but by changing out the ball, i will lose 2" so a net
> raise of
> 2" will result. mainly wanted to know the acceptability of putting the
> hitch
> shaft 180 degrees. it seems that the consensus is that its ok. thanks
> harry
> ----- Original Message -----
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:01:39 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
> My husband and I have locked ourselves in our 65 Caravel twice. Can
anyone
> recommend a place where I can purchase a knob that will look similar to
the
> original? Inland RV posted on another list that I could buy one for $110
that
> would need "some modifications." I didn't receive an answer when I asked
about
> those modifications.
Ann,
I purchased the Bargman L100 from Coast Distribution (go-rv.com) for $64.95
product #40499. however it has a "short" striker". The one you probably need
has the "long striker" which is what Inland RV sells for $110. If your
striker is in decent condition you can use your old "long striker" and
install it into your new "cheaper" L100 handle. Other than the striker
length it's identical to the original.
Colin
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 08:01:03 -0500
From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Relax.... Find something cool and sit down..
It will all work it's way out.. Some time when you dump it will come
out
or it will just stay in the tank.. Next time just buy a better brush.
Life is too short to worry about little things.
See You On the Road
Dean & Kay
WBCCI 2486
IOWA
On Sep 9, 2004, at 3:53 AM, AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> I was ever so careful to buy a toilet brush that didn't have a
> "flushable"
> head, believing that nothing like that would truly be flushable even
> in a "real"
> toilet and especially not in my trailer. We are new to Rving and made
> our
> initial weekend away last week. I had visions of a wet brush rolling
> around
> while we were on the road so I bought one where you brush and then
> detach the
> head and throw it in the trash. To my horror while I was brushing and
> helping on
> the inside at our initial trip to a dump station I somehow let the
> head come
> off and go into the tank! Now what? I keep thinking of that thing
> down in
> there. Do I have to fill the tank and get under there and try to
> drain it out
> and hope the toilet brush part comes to the hole so I can grab it?
> Now *that*
> sounds like a pleasant job :( Where would I do that? I wonder if the
> drainage hole will get blocked. What if it starts smelling? Has
> anyone else done
> something like this?
>
> Any/all ideas appreciated.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 09:41:11 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] [Fwd: Generators]
Sorry, I sent this to Tom Patterson the administrator of this list.
Maybe this will make it to the list!
Message-ID: <41405BFF.1B9367B9@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 09:34:55 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
X-Sender: "Jerry Jarrell" <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net@xxxxxxxxxx.cstel.net> (Unverified)
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.06 [en]C-gatewaynet (Win98; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: VAL Digest <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Generators
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hey Dr. Johnson, what do you think of the two generators below. Would
they work in series/ Thanks!
Jerry
4899 WBCCI & VAC
http://www.irvinesubaru.com/interests/generator.html
http://electricgeneratorsdirect.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=53_55&products_id=191
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 07:57:41 -0600
From: rob <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
Ann,
IF your door is 1-3/8" thick, has a 2-3/8" backset and is 'bored' like
our '64 is, any commercial finish hardware wholesaler can order you a
Schlage "Plymouth" series passage set in 26D (brushed/dull) chrome
finish. That should match the original pretty well and be less than $20.
Rob Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
Denver, CO
AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a place where I can purchase a knob that will look similar to the original?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 07:03:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: M Tate <firebirdesprit@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #363
VAL Digest <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
VAL Digest Tuesday, September 7 2004 Volume 01 : Number 363
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Re: Jack Cover
[VAL] Wire routing access
[VAL] need door measurements
[VAL] Re: Stripper for aluminum paint
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 10:50:54 -0400
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo"
Subject: [VAL] Re: Jack Cover
For those less handy with a needle and thread my electric jack, Level
Rite 3000 by Barker, came with a cover that has a drawstring close.
They are probably sold independent of the Jack by the Co. Just have to
remember to take if off before pulling away!!
Patti
Long Island, NY
1954 Flying Cloud
02 2500 Suburban
WBCCI # 3321
Washington DC Unit
Denver Unit Associate
VAC
ps. PLEASE, I get the list in digest form and the one today had two
posts that carried the WHOLE previous list with them!! Please delete
before sending a post!
- ------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 10:35:33 -0700
From: Glyn Judson
Subject: [VAL] Wire routing access
All,
I want to install another factory stock 4- light overhead fixture that I
now have, right where the air conditioner would be if my 1969 Caravel had
one. That way if ever someone (not me at this point) wanted to fit an A/C
unit, the scarring of the light installation would be cut away for the
larger mounting hole.
So I have three questions:
1. I see a 3/8" or so hole drilled into the vertical side of the
aluminum spacer between the outer and inner skins at the crank up vent on
the curb side. I assume that's for the optional 12 v. fan that mine does
not have (hmm, maybe I'll add that neat accessory someday). Are there two
12 v. wires just beyond that hole that could be routed aft to the light I
plan to install?
2. Am I opening up a can of worms to drill out the myriad rivets
necessary to move or remove that spacer?
3. Will I be able to route those wires, with spliced extra length,
aft and past the ribs between the vent opening and my proposed light
location?
Thanks in advance to all those who've gone this path before me.
By the way, I picked up the all newly recovered and newly foamed
cushions last week and I'm picking up the four standard bed pillow shams
today that were finished late Saturday. I expect to have all the lined
curtains finished by mid week. Whoopee!
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
- ------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 13:36:11 -0400
From: "Peter Ryner"
Subject: [VAL] need door measurements
Hi all,
We've survived two hurricanes now and I'm starting to concentrate on my
airstream again. The factory has it and are doing the frame and rear
attachment repairs. No one has found my rear door I lost in Virginia in
June/July and the factory doesn't have one. I'm still looking for one. It
is from a '68 Ambassador, 28'. The handle and latch are on the bottom
middle of the door. I have a door from a '67 but the latches are on the
sides vice the bottom. If anyone has a '68 and could take some measurements
of the opening, I would certainly appreciate it. I believe the dimensions
will be the same, but am not sure. I can change the latch points on the
trailer to match the door if necessary. Thanks in advance for any help.
Pete
- ------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 14:59:15 -0400
From: John Sellers
Subject: [VAL] Re: Stripper for aluminum paint
Shirley,
Thanks for the good information. My internet connection was working
pretty well yesterday and I ordered a gallon of RemovAll 220 from Down
to Earth Products www.dtep.com in Colerain, Ohio. They are right on top
of things and have confirmed that they will ship tomorrow morning and I
should have it Thursday. The moment of truth is coming--sure hope it
works!
Best,
John & Barb Sellers
WBCCI/VAC #1587
1960 Pacer
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 13:32:59 -0700
> From: "Arlen & Shirley"
> Subject: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint
>
> John,
>
> I had a trailer I was considering stripping so I contacted Napier, the maker
> of the removal product, that everyone has such high recommendation for. I
> ended up not doing the project so I did not buy any of the stripper but I
> thought the info they passed on might be helpful.
>
> Napier makes many types of paint strippers. Some are good to use on
> Aluminum and some are for wood etc. They did not recommend using their
> aerosol product on an Airstream.
>
> Here are the products they recommended for stripping clear coat or paint off
> an Airstream (or any aluminum).
>
> Removal All 220 - Brush grade good for an Airstream
> Removal All 210 - Airless spray grade (ICI paints labels this Hydrostrip
> 502)
> Removal All SV35PMA - Airless spray grade approved for use on aluminum
> aircraft - Fine for Airstreams too.
>
> Note: Spray grade takes an airless sprayer to apply.
>
> The following places can order the 220 or the 210 BUT they may not know what
> it is (I called several stores and they were clueless. I called Napier back
> and they suggested to have the store call them directly because they CAN
> ordered it!)
> It runs about $35-$50 a gal.
>
> Any ICI Paint store
> Any Sherwin Williams paint store
> SV35PMA can be ordered direct from Napier or from Aircraftspruce.com
>
> Contact info for Napier
> E-mail: cservice@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Phone: 1-604-526-0802
> Phone (Toll free in North America): 1-800-663-9274
> Fax: 1-604-526-7772
> Fax: (Toll free in North America): 1-888-329-9274
>
>
> Shirley Manning
- ------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #363
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 10:39:06 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Replacement Power Jack?
Hello all.
After working on my power jack for the last time I have decided to replace
it.
There are several available but I was wondering what brand the new Airstreams
come with. Anyone know? Any recommendations?
Thanks
Bobby
'73 Ambassador
Valdosta, GA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 10:39:19 EDT
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: DUMP VALVE
In a message dated 9/8/2004 10:03:03 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
Well, the dump valve to the black tank on my '77 31' center bath Sovereign
wont close all the way.
I am currently trying the trick in the latest "Phred Sez....." which
basically has you soak the valve in toilet chems for 24 hours.
I vote for the "TRY AND FIX IT" Idea!
Mine was acting the same way and I discovered on My 78 that the handle that
pulls the valve had spun on the rod and shortened the length of the pull rod so
that the gate did not go all the way in!
Also~ than not working~~I'd bang it in with a hammer a few times "LITELY"
incase there is something foreign in the way>>>>what have you got to loose?
I ALWAYS try the "HAMMER FIX" as a last resort on anything that's giving me
problems!
You'd be amazed how many times it has worked in my 44 years of tinkering!
AlanT
Phx AZ
78 Arg 30
93 Dodge Cummins
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 10:41:53 -0400
From: "Jack Sloan" <nyseconds@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #1
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Cathy Townley-McGaughey" <cathytownley@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>
> Excellent points and you have now scared me to death, don't know about
rest
> of group.
> Instead of installing a new furnace could electric heat sources be a good
> option for the RV if the climate was not too extreme?
Cathy, you shouldn't be scared, -just aware... A new furnace will run
about $400 to $500 or so, and a CO detector that I would bet my life on
would *start* at $200-$300; The (cheaper) little 'smoke detector ' types are
just "better than nothing".
Electric space heater units (IMHO) -are a trade-off for an increased
fire risk, and limit you to campgrounds with enough electric to carry them-
A/C units with heating rods or coils might be the exception, and they're OK
for mildly cool temps, but not for real frosty mornings.... (and, if the
circuit breaker lets go in the middle of the night, it's gonna get cold in
there.)
I pulled the following from the website of a company that makes CO
"sniffers" (I don't guarantee the accuracy of the figures), but it changed
my perspective about not wanting to spend the $1000 or so to replace the two
furnaces in my '85 Classic (they've both been giving me a lot of trouble
lately, anyway)...:
"Carbon Monoxide is often called "the silent killer," because it gives no
clear warning to its victims. It is an invisible gas with no taste or smell.
Even small concentrations of Carbon Monoxide in the ambient air can create a
health hazard because the exposure to CO reduces the blood's ability to
carry oxygen. "
"Effects at various concentrations of CO:
9 ppm: The maximum allowable concentration for short-term exposure in a
living ambient.
35 ppm: The maximum allowable concentration for continuous exposure in any
eight hour period, according to ASHRAE .
According to US federal law, OSHA:
200 ppm: The maximum allowable concentration for any time, Headaches,
fatigue, nausea after 2-3 hours.
800 ppm: Nausea and convulsions within 45 min. Death within 2-3 hours.
3200 ppm: Headache and nausea within 5-10 min. Death within 30 min."
I hope this helps- Jack
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 08:21:05 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
All,
I too had my Bargman L100 lock me in once. And it was a new one I had
recently bought from C & S RV in Oxnard CA. Contact them at 805.983.1673.
If memory serves, paid on the order of $49 for it. I too had to switch
strikers for the same reason.
I ended up climbing out the then unscreened front window to get a
screwdriver so as to take it apart. I tried fiddling with the lock from the
outside (which had locked itself in the process) and using the key, finally
got it to open. I took the lock apart only to find nothing amiss. I
reinstalled it and haven't had that problem again
Ideas anybody?
On the subject of that screen, I was given useful advice about
installing it some months ago from Gerald? that I applied just about a week
ago, finally. I didn't cut the screen with the roller Gerald but there were
a few tense moments when I slipped and rolled away from and not towards the
good part of the cloth. Phew!
The spline turned out to be a problem as none of the local screen shops
had the perfect size and I don't live near any RV supply places.
I actually found a shop that had a roll of spline that was even smaller
and a roll slightly larger. With his quick advice I took the bigger stuff
and went home to do the deed.
He advised me to start at the bottom and then work up the sides to the
top. He also advised that if I pulled the spline a bit, it would reduce in
diameter and go into the slot with the help of the roller tool.
Marilyn helped me hold the pattern square to the frame and off we went.
Within 20 minutes we had a nice trimmed screen FINALLY in the front window.
I'm sharing these tricks with the list for those of you who someday plan
to replace your screen material and haven't a clue as to how to start.
Later,
Glyn
> From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:01:39 -0700
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
>
>> My husband and I have locked ourselves in our 65 Caravel twice. Can
> anyone
>> recommend a place where I can purchase a knob that will look similar to
> the
>> original? Inland RV posted on another list that I could buy one for $110
> that
>> would need "some modifications." I didn't receive an answer when I asked
> about
>> those modifications.
>
> Ann,
> I purchased the Bargman L100 from Coast Distribution (go-rv.com) for $64.95
> product #40499. however it has a "short" striker". The one you probably need
> has the "long striker" which is what Inland RV sells for $110. If your
> striker is in decent condition you can use your old "long striker" and
> install it into your new "cheaper" L100 handle. Other than the striker
> length it's identical to the original.
> Colin
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 08:22:02 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Ann,
Long Latex gloves? ; - )
Glyn
> From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 08:01:03 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
>
> Relax.... Find something cool and sit down..
> It will all work it's way out.. Some time when you dump it will come
> out
> or it will just stay in the tank.. Next time just buy a better brush.
> Life is too short to worry about little things.
>
> See You On the Road
> Dean & Kay
> WBCCI 2486
> IOWA
>
>
> On Sep 9, 2004, at 3:53 AM, AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
>> I was ever so careful to buy a toilet brush that didn't have a
>> "flushable"
>> head, believing that nothing like that would truly be flushable even
>> in a "real"
>> toilet and especially not in my trailer. We are new to Rving and made
>> our
>> initial weekend away last week. I had visions of a wet brush rolling
>> around
>> while we were on the road so I bought one where you brush and then
>> detach the
>> head and throw it in the trash. To my horror while I was brushing and
>> helping on
>> the inside at our initial trip to a dump station I somehow let the
>> head come
>> off and go into the tank! Now what? I keep thinking of that thing
>> down in
>> there. Do I have to fill the tank and get under there and try to
>> drain it out
>> and hope the toilet brush part comes to the hole so I can grab it?
>> Now *that*
>> sounds like a pleasant job :( Where would I do that? I wonder if the
>> drainage hole will get blocked. What if it starts smelling? Has
>> anyone else done
>> something like this?
>>
>> Any/all ideas appreciated.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 08:23:32 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] RE: 67 safari furnace
Hi Sharon,
It is probably a Suburban NT-22. If so, parts are still available:
http://www.marksrv.com/suburbanparts.htm
If the damage is too extensive (for example rust-out), the under cabinet
ducted Suburban is the easiest heater to replace, as it can be done
without affecting the appearance of the trailer, and only costs about
$600.
For older styles of heaters (Hydro-flames, Panel-Rays, Day & Night's,
Carlson's, Marsh's, etc.) it then becomes more desirable to repair than
to replace. The older units were built to last and rarely fail. The
most common problem is LPG goo plugging up the gas control (disassemble
& clean), followed by water damage and rusting of the burner can
(welding shops can fabricate/duplicate replacements). 3rd method of
failure is a loose or broken thermocouple (tighten nut or replace). 4th
is a damaged gas control diaphragm seal, usually owner-inflicted. In
most of these cases, replacement of the gas control with a modern unit
is the only choice. 5th most common problem is mud-daubers, wasps or
birds nests plugging things up.
All in all, no matter the age of the heater it is important to closely
inspect any heater every few months, use a CO2 alarm, and if using an
internal combustion air heater (no external air intake duct, just
exhaust ducting), make sure that you keep windows open to supply the air
consumed by the gas flame.
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
- -------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 13:04:38 -0700
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
Yesterday, we had a minor miracle of sparking up the furnace, and having
hot air come out of the ducts! Very thrilling. When we bought this
trailer,
we had no idea if anything worked in it at all. Coming up roses, so far.
But, we need a piece for the furnace, and I think that it might be a bit
of
a challenge. We need the piece that goes from the end of the
thermocouple
to the gas line ect. I don't know how better to explain it. It looks
like
cast aluminium, almost. It works for now, but it is falling apart. If
needed, I can haul the furnace out again and take a picture of it.
Sharon, in BC, where the stove works, the fridge works, hubby fixed the
hole in the water tank, and all we have to do now is fix some broken
waterlines, put the tank back in, put in a new water pump, and then
check
the hotwater tank out. Pretty good for a *not sure what works* trailer.
Oh,
and hubby is re-doing some electrical. All the overhead light fixtures
are
toast, but there is power to them
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 11:31:47 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Dump valve repair - Easier than I thought it would be
Well, as expected, the "Soak the valve in toilet chems" idea from Phred
Sez...." didnt work.
So today I crawled underneath and took a look at the dump plumbing.
The output pipe you hook the hose to is connected with the "Wye" pipe (The
3" "Y" pipe that connects the gray and black tanks to the outlet) with a
rubber sleeve. This is documented in my service manual. What wasn't
documented was the fact that the gray tank end of the "Wye" was connected
to the gray tank valve via another rubber sleeve. I'm not sure if someone
did this afterwards (someone had definitely worked on the plumbing at one
time), or if the trailer came that way. I was expecting to have to cut this.
The Thetford valve on the blank tank was cemented to the "Wye" on one side,
but had a compression connection on the other side, so all I had to do to
remove it was to undo the four bolts that held the Thetford valve to it's
seat and loosen the two rubber sleeves. The Thetford valve then came out,
attached to the "Wye".
Once I took the valve apart, I discovered it wouldn't close due to crud in
the valve's track. This was hard stuff, maybe rust, so that is why the
toilet chems didn't dissolve it.
After cleaning and reassembling everything, it now works like a champ!
Dave
At 05:03 PM 9/7/2004, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>Well, the dump valve to the black tank on my '77 31' center bath Sovereign
>wont close all the way.
>
>I am currently trying the trick in the latest "Phred Sez....." which
>basically has you soak the valve in toilet chems for 24 hours.
>
>Being the pessimist that I am, I am assuming that this wont work.
>
>So, what's involved in fixing this? I assume that I have to replace the
>valve, and that everything is glued together, which will mean that a hack
>saw is involved in the removal process.
>
>Are the valves still available? Can I get them from a regular RV place or
>do I have to get them from Airstream?
>
>Any words of advice would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Dave
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:43:43 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Small Airstream heating
I've used a 1500 watt "milk house" electric heater in my '68 Caravel down
to 24 degrees F outside temperature. Then it was running almost
constantly (has a built in thermostat) but I slept fine. I've not run that load
on the aluminum wiring and most such heaters have a warning label
about leaving then on when going to sleep. Indeed, a blanket over the
front of the heater could lead to a burning blanket. The 1500 watt heater
makes about 5000 BTU per hour. Not much different from the LP radiant
heater rated at 6000 BTU per hour that some like in the small Airstream.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:43:52 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] placement of CO detector
In my Monitor, I had the MO detector IN the bedroom up fairly high on
the bulkhead opposite side of where I slept. This was a double bunk
bed rear bedroom model. I think I'd rather have it at sleeping nose level
so the CO doesn't have to diffuse so far from the low mounted furnace.
EPA is recommending outside the bedroom, I think because they expect
the CO to migrate through the hallway and through furnace ducts in the
ceiling. The RV is much more closely coupled and the CO is going to
arrive down low and migrate upward due to the lower specific gravity.
When the source is down low (furnace on the floor or under the floor) I
think lower is more appropriate. The CO detector is to protect ME, not
the empty upper bunk.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:43:47 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
Been there, worked on it.
The Bargeman L-100 IIRC has a knob inside and out, the L-200 has a bar
inside that would fit the Airstream screen better. Inside the works that
lock is the spitting image of the original Airstream lock. The only thing is
that the bolt is too short. Takes what Airstream calls a "long yoke."
Several years ago I bought the L-200 and long yoke, not assembled, at
Thomas Airstream at St. Louis for about $65. The long yoke was under $15
as I recall.
After that I took the original lock out and cleaned it up, lubricated it
and its working just fine. I might replace it some decade. It had been
not locking when I pushed the lock button. Cleaning that mechanism
made it work again. If it won't unlock, I'd suspect grunge in about the
same place. If you don't have confidence in cleaning the lock, I'm sure
a locksmith could for a half hour or hour charge if the lock was out of the
door.
I think the parts department wanted $350 for an exact replacement
lock those days. Inland would tend to be higher.
I probably have the part number for that long yoke still on that long
yoke unless traveling has worn it off out in the Airstream.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 10:56:00 -0500
From: "Dean L." <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: 67 safari furnace
If you replace the furnace put in the same size, that is the same BTU's.
If you get too big the furnace will have time moving enough air and it
will shut down.
I know.... We had to add extra ducts and cut a larger return air
opening.
See You On The Road
Dean L.
WBCCI 2486
On Sep 9, 2004, at 10:23 AM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Hi Sharon,
>
> It is probably a Suburban NT-22. If so, parts are still available:
> http://www.marksrv.com/suburbanparts.htm
>
> If the damage is too extensive (for example rust-out), the under
> cabinet
> ducted Suburban is the easiest heater to replace, as it can be done
> without affecting the appearance of the trailer, and only costs about
> $600.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 10:01:58 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] [Fwd: Generators]
Why would you want to connect them in series? that would only double
the output voltage. They probably would work together that way, but
24 or 48 volts is uncommon for RV voltages.
In parallel, without sophisticated regulators they probably don't have,
they won't share the load current well. At AC another detail has to be
considered, they have to be on the same phase when connected or
they will do lots of bad things.
Honda generators are quiet and made for paralleling. Others aren't.
I was told a tale by a WW2 vet years ago. During the war while on an air
base in England he decided it would be handy to parallel several AC
generators for more power. He gathered them up, set up switches to
connect them and started them all disconnected. Then he threw the
switches. The all stopped and some flipped on their sides. Then the
engineers at the base taught him about phasing generators and he
succeeded on his subsequent trials. The trick is to put a light bulb rated
at twice the circuit voltage across the open switch, then close the
switch when the light bulb has gone out. As the generators naturally will
run at different speeds the light bulb across the switch will brighten and
dim. Once tied together the generators have a chance of sharing the
load if the voltage regulators and engine governors are similar.
I believe the quiet Honda generators generate at 12 volts and use an
electronic inverter to make the AC and that inverter has provisions for
paralleling with identical equipment. The its simple. Otherwise it can be
a pain (standing generators back on their feet).
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:12:53 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Ann:
I have no idea what to tell you about the brush head in the tank
except, "Don't ever, ever do that again". Perhaps a prayer group? And
then there's the ever popular, "What were you THINKING!?".
Jo Ann
On 9, Sep 2004, at 1:53 AM, AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> I was ever so careful to buy a toilet brush that didn't have a
> "flushable"
> head, believing that nothing like that would truly be flushable even
> in a "real"
> toilet and especially not in my trailer. We are new to Rving ....
> i
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:14:33 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #1
Have you looked at the Force 10 propane space heaters? The Cozy Cabin
and there are larger ones also.
Jo Ann
>
>> Don't trust an old furnace. Its suicide and CO is a painful way to go.
>> Gerald J.
>
> Excellent points and you have now scared me to death, don't know about
> rest
> of group.
> Instead of installing a new furnace could electric heat sources be a
> good
> option for the RV if the climate was not too extreme?
> Cathy Townley-McGaughey
> '
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:24:36 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Perfaps several large trebal fish hooks on a strong line or a wire could
snag the brush so it could be withdrawn.
You will laugh about this later.
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:40:26 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
To those with a sense of humor,
All this toilet talk reminds me of the two guys sitting side by side in a
two-holer outhouse. The first guy stands to pull up his trousers and a
fifty-cent piece falls out of his pocket and---plop---right down the hole. He
shrugs his shoulders, reaches into his other pocket, pulls out a solid gold
pocket watch and throws IT down the hole---PLOP.
"Why on earth did you do that?" the other guy asks...
The first guy replies "You don't think I'm going down there for fifty cents do
you?"
Mark in Modesto
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:59:54 -0400
From: "Clark, Robert H." <rclark@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Solar Battery Charger
I have a 1972 International 27' with one deep cycle battery. I am
looking for a solar battery charger that will keep the battery charged
when the trailer is parked with no available hookups.
The only power drain during this time will be from lights, the furnace
fan during the winter and an inverter powering a TV and satellite
receiver. Any suggestions on the size charger I will need and
manufacturers?
Thanks to all.
Bob Clark WBCCI # 4230
Greensboro, NC
1972 International 27'
1996 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4, Cummings Turbo Diesel
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 12:50:48 -0500
From: "J. Anderson" <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Ann, wire coat hangers are among my travel kit essentials just for
situations like this. You could try straightening one out, leaving the
hook on the end, bend a right angle about a foot or so from the hook
end, and you are ready to go fishing. Make sure the water is off so you
don't fill the tank with water while you are holding the flush valve open.
It's free (albeit inelegant) and worth a try. Good luck!
John
WBCCI 4682
1966 Sovereign
AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>I somehow let the head come
>off and go into the tank! Now what?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:56:04 -0500
From: "Chaplain Kent" <Chaplainkent@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Ann,
Now that someone has suggested a prayer group I thought I needed to jump in,
so to speak. Please do not despair the brush head will only serve to agitate
the waste as you drive the highways with your wonderful new Airstream.
Welcome.
Chaplain Kent
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 11:12:59 -0700
From: "Tim S." <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
If you don't already have one of those clear elbows for your dump
connection, nows the time to get it.
You can fill the tank with water several times and watch as you dump to see
if it comes out.
Nice to have anyway to ensure the tank is clean.
It's the *fun* dad job of camping ;-)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 11:23:04 -0700
From: "Tim S." <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] RE: 67 safari furnace
Not to scare you anymore, but that model NT-22 had a recall because of the
rubber crossover tube going bad. It brings fresh air into the combustion
chamber and if it is bad it would leak large amounts of CO into the trailer.
The only way to check it is to remove the furnace innards and have a look as
its in the back part of the unit.
If your not sure of yourself to do this, best to find someone you trust to
do it for you.
Paying to have this checked may not be worth it because it's condition and
age. You possibly would be throwing it away anyway.
I pulled mine out and checked and replaced the tube myself. But I still
don't really trust the furnace to use it with my family. So we use a
ceramic electric heater and the heat strip in the AC.
- -Tim
www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508)590-0320
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 11:23:05 -0700
From: "Tim S." <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] placement of CO detector
CO detectors go high, LP detectors are mounted low.
- -Tim
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of Chris Koehn
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 5:03 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] placement of CO detector
Thanks for the important and useful discussion of CO detectors. I'm
wondering where the most effective placement of a detector in an
Airstream will be. CO has a specific gravity of 0.96716. EPA recommends
placement outside bedrooms. Does the specific gravity indeed mean that
CO is lighter than air, and so the detector should be placed high (on
the ceiling, fore the bedroom) or would a location nearer the furnace
be the best bet?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 14:24:45 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Actually, it should eventually disintegrate and/or be flushed out of the
tank with no harm done.
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
> Perfaps several large trebal fish hooks on a strong line or a wire could
> snag the brush so it could be withdrawn.
> You will laugh about this later.
> Jim Smith
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 15:02:40 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] [Fwd: Generators]
I've heard that generators operating differently then being connected
together result in a "train-wreck" of voltages colliding and smashing into
each other. Guess that's what happened with the fell over -- they wrecked.
;)
Tom
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Why would you want to connect them in series? that would only double
> the output voltage. They probably would work together that way, but
> 24 or 48 volts is uncommon for RV voltages.
>
> In parallel, without sophisticated regulators they probably don't have,
> they won't share the load current well. At AC another detail has to be
> considered, they have to be on the same phase when connected or
> they will do lots of bad things.
>
> Honda generators are quiet and made for paralleling. Others aren't.
>
> I was told a tale by a WW2 vet years ago. During the war while on an air
> base in England he decided it would be handy to parallel several AC
> generators for more power. He gathered them up, set up switches to
> connect them and started them all disconnected. Then he threw the
> switches. The all stopped and some flipped on their sides. Then the
> engineers at the base taught him about phasing generators and he
> succeeded on his subsequent trials. The trick is to put a light bulb rated
> at twice the circuit voltage across the open switch, then close the
> switch when the light bulb has gone out. As the generators naturally will
> run at different speeds the light bulb across the switch will brighten and
> dim. Once tied together the generators have a chance of sharing the
> load if the voltage regulators and engine governors are similar.
>
> I believe the quiet Honda generators generate at 12 volts and use an
> electronic inverter to make the AC and that inverter has provisions for
> paralleling with identical equipment. The its simple. Otherwise it can be
> a pain (standing generators back on their feet).
>
> Gerald J.
>
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 15:17:59 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Dr J? a question about heating
Just thinking and wondering here ---
Buildings still use baseboard heating with hot water running in the 'veins'
of the system. IF you were to set up some copper pipes that would transmit
their warmth to the airspace, couldn't the same thing be done for any RV or
trailer?
I'm thinking that this would work and be very *economical* to use if it's
powered by electricity provided by the campground's power supply. You would
be able to have a sealed system to which the RV anti-freeze could be added
so that a heating system like this would not freeze unless you don't have
enough anti-freeze added so it can survive in the Arctic. I don't know of
anyone that would camp in the Arctic in an Airstream but then again I don't
know everyone in the world either. ;)
Dr J, what do you think of a sealed, baseboard heating system like this
perhaps "powered" by a small electric water heater running off of AC power?
Would it work?
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Jack Sloan" <nyseconds@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> From: "Cathy Townley-McGaughey" <cathytownley@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>
>> Excellent points and you have now scared me to death, don't know about
> rest
>> of group.
>> Instead of installing a new furnace could electric heat sources be a good
>> option for the RV if the climate was not too extreme?
>
> Cathy, you shouldn't be scared, -just aware... A new furnace will run
> about $400 to $500 or so, and a CO detector that I would bet my life on
> would *start* at $200-$300; The (cheaper) little 'smoke detector ' types
> are
> just "better than nothing".
>
> Electric space heater units (IMHO) -are a trade-off for an increased
> fire risk, and limit you to campgrounds with enough electric to carry
> them-
> A/C units with heating rods or coils might be the exception, and they're
> OK
> for mildly cool temps, but not for real frosty mornings.... (and, if the
> circuit breaker lets go in the middle of the night, it's gonna get cold in
> there.)
>
> I pulled the following from the website of a company that makes CO
> "sniffers" (I don't guarantee the accuracy of the figures), but it changed
> my perspective about not wanting to spend the $1000 or so to replace the
> two
> furnaces in my '85 Classic (they've both been giving me a lot of trouble
> lately, anyway)...:
>
> "Carbon Monoxide is often called "the silent killer," because it gives no
> clear warning to its victims. It is an invisible gas with no taste or
> smell.
> Even small concentrations of Carbon Monoxide in the ambient air can create
> a
> health hazard because the exposure to CO reduces the blood's ability to
> carry oxygen. "
>
> "Effects at various concentrations of CO:
>
> 9 ppm: The maximum allowable concentration for short-term exposure in a
> living ambient.
>
> 35 ppm: The maximum allowable concentration for continuous exposure in any
> eight hour period, according to ASHRAE .
>
> According to US federal law, OSHA:
>
> 200 ppm: The maximum allowable concentration for any time, Headaches,
> fatigue, nausea after 2-3 hours.
>
> 800 ppm: Nausea and convulsions within 45 min. Death within 2-3 hours.
>
> 3200 ppm: Headache and nausea within 5-10 min. Death within 30 min."
>
> I hope this helps- Jack>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 12:29:37 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
Mark,
You need to update that joke. It should read a 25 cent piece and a cell
phone. ; -)
Glyn
> From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:40:26 -0700
> To: "AIRSTREAM" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
>
> To those with a sense of humor,
>
> All this toilet talk reminds me of the two guys sitting side by side in a
> two-holer outhouse. The first guy stands to pull up his trousers and a
> fifty-cent piece falls out of his pocket and---plop---right down the hole. He
> shrugs his shoulders, reaches into his other pocket, pulls out a solid gold
> pocket watch and throws IT down the hole---PLOP.
>
> "Why on earth did you do that?" the other guy asks...
>
> The first guy replies "You don't think I'm going down there for fifty cents do
> you?"
>
>
> Mark in Modesto
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 15:30:33 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] [Fwd: Generators]
Hi All,
Thought I'd share my experience with the Honda EU2000 with the list. I knew
that I couldn't operate AC with this unit and that I couldn't operate the
microwave or coffee maker simultaneously. What I didn't expect was that the
Black and Decker would draw more than 15 amps and the Honda voltage would
drop so low that the coffee maker would abort. Went back to the Sensco.
Got to have a fresh cup of coffee that has full flavor and these units
deliver!
Anyway, two boon dock camp outs of 4 days each demonstrate that I made the
right purchase. In standby mode, the Honda will run about 8 hours on a
gallon of gas. It runs the TV, 18 inch fan, charger, and other small
appliances in standby mode. Only when I fire up the 800W microwave does it
go into full power mode.
The EU 2000 weighs in at just shy of 50 pounds and is really easy to handle.
It's relatively quiet running outside the trailer. Strategically placed,
it's not bothersome at all.
Yes, the Honda is made to run in parallel and could run my AC. Doubt that
I'd be satisfied with the full power noise and additional handling. The
EU3000 is just too heavy, but runs with about the same noise level.
To each his own, but I made a choice (with help from the list) and I'm a
happy camper! )
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 12:32:12 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
Ann,
On a serious note, I wonder if it wouldn't be prudent to get out?
Mightn't the brush tend to hold the tank contents captive and with a lot of
combined surface area?
Glyn
> From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:12:53 -0700
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] flushed down in error :(
>
> Ann:
> I have no idea what to tell you about the brush head in the tank
> except, "Don't ever, ever do that again". Perhaps a prayer group? And
> then there's the ever popular, "What were you THINKING!?".
> Jo Ann
> On 9, Sep 2004, at 1:53 AM, AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
>> I was ever so careful to buy a toilet brush that didn't have a
>> "flushable"
>> head, believing that nothing like that would truly be flushable even
>> in a "real"
>> toilet and especially not in my trailer. We are new to Rving ....
>> i
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 15:47:38 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] for sale
Here's an ad appearing in the Akron Beacon Journal (Ohio) on Sept 9th. I
have no interest in the unit but it sounded so good and with a low price I
decided to put it on the list. Do a Google search on the phone number for
the name and address of the owner...good luck.
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:12:18 -0700
From: "Tim S." <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
Glyn,
Are you diving in for the quarter then, since cell phones are free? ;-)
- -Tim
Mark,
You need to update that joke. It should read a 25 cent piece and a cell
phone. ; -)
Glyn
> From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:40:26 -0700
> To: "AIRSTREAM" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
>
> To those with a sense of humor,
>
> All this toilet talk reminds me of the two guys sitting side by side in a
> two-holer outhouse. The first guy stands to pull up his trousers and a
> fifty-cent piece falls out of his pocket and---plop---right down the hole.
He
> shrugs his shoulders, reaches into his other pocket, pulls out a solid
gold
> pocket watch and throws IT down the hole---PLOP.
>
> "Why on earth did you do that?" the other guy asks...
>
> The first guy replies "You don't think I'm going down there for fifty
cents do
> you?"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 16:14:41 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] for sale...oops
Guess I need to copy the ad too....sorry.
1973 Airstream Excella 500. 34 ft. air loaded, elderly owned, all orig.,
exc. cond., in & out. $3700/obo. 330-431-6596.
Here's an ad appearing in the Akron Beacon Journal (Ohio) on Sept 9th. I
have no interest in the unit but it sounded so good and with a low price I
decided to put it on the list. Do a Google search on the phone number for
the name and address of the owner...good luck.
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 16:17:53 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] for sale
1973 Airstream Excella 500. 34 ft. air loaded, elderly owned, all orig.,
exc. cond., in & out. $3700/obo. 330-431-6596.
Here's an ad appearing in the Akron Beacon Journal (Ohio) on Sept 9th. I
have no interest in the unit but it sounded so good and with a low price I
decided to put it on the list. Do a Google search on the phone number for
the name and address of the owner...good luck.
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 13:26:07 -0700
From: "Erica Haaseth" <eriboberi@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
Isn't the 1967 one of the recalled furnaces? Our 66 was recalled & we were
warned never to use it.
Erica
66 safari
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 13:04:38 -0700
>From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>Subject: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
>
>Yesterday, we had a minor miracle of sparking up the furnace, and having
>hot air come out of the ducts! Very thrilling. When we bought this trailer,
>we had no idea if anything worked in it at all. Coming up roses, so far.
>
>But, we need a piece for the furnace, and I think that it might be a bit of
>a challenge. We need the piece that goes from the end of the thermocouple
>to the gas line ect. I don't know how better to explain it. It looks like
>cast aluminium, almost. It works for now, but it is falling apart. If
>needed, I can haul the furnace out again and take a picture of it.
>
>Sharon, in BC, where the stove works, the fridge works, hubby fixed the
>hole in the water tank, and all we have to do now is fix some broken
>waterlines, put the tank back in, put in a new water pump, and then check
>the hotwater tank out. Pretty good for a *not sure what works* trailer. Oh,
>and hubby is re-doing some electrical. All the overhead light fixtures are
>toast, but there is power to them
>
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 16:30:58 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Dr J? a question about heating
Tom,
A trailer with radiant floor heat, two water heaters, one for wash, the
other for
heat, two water pumps, one for each.
Paul Waddell
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 2:17 PM
Subject: [VAL] Dr J? a question about heating
> Just thinking and wondering here ---
>
> Buildings still use baseboard heating with hot water running in the
'veins'
> of the system. IF you were to set up some copper pipes that would
transmit
> their warmth to the airspace, couldn't the same thing be done for any RV
or
> trailer?
>
> I'm thinking that this would work and be very *economical* to use if it's
> powered by electricity provided by the campground's power supply. You
would
> be able to have a sealed system to which the RV anti-freeze could be added
> so that a heating system like this would not freeze unless you don't have
> enough anti-freeze added so it can survive in the Arctic. I don't know of
> anyone that would camp in the Arctic in an Airstream but then again I
don't
> know everyone in the world either. ;)
>
> Dr J, what do you think of a sealed, baseboard heating system like this
> perhaps "powered" by a small electric water heater running off of AC
power?
> Would it work?
>
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
>
> From: "Jack Sloan" <nyseconds@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> > From: "Cathy Townley-McGaughey" <cathytownley@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> >>
> >> Excellent points and you have now scared me to death, don't know about
> > rest
> >> of group.
> >> Instead of installing a new furnace could electric heat sources be a
good
> >> option for the RV if the climate was not too extreme?
> >
> > Cathy, you shouldn't be scared, -just aware... A new furnace will run
> > about $400 to $500 or so, and a CO detector that I would bet my life on
> > would *start* at $200-$300; The (cheaper) little 'smoke detector ' types
> > are
> > just "better than nothing".
> >
> > Electric space heater units (IMHO) -are a trade-off for an increased
> > fire risk, and limit you to campgrounds with enough electric to carry
> > them-
> > A/C units with heating rods or coils might be the exception, and they're
> > OK
> > for mildly cool temps, but not for real frosty mornings.... (and, if the
> > circuit breaker lets go in the middle of the night, it's gonna get cold
in
> > there.)
> >
> > I pulled the following from the website of a company that makes CO
> > "sniffers" (I don't guarantee the accuracy of the figures), but it
changed
> > my perspective about not wanting to spend the $1000 or so to replace the
> > two
> > furnaces in my '85 Classic (they've both been giving me a lot of trouble
> > lately, anyway)...:
> >
> > "Carbon Monoxide is often called "the silent killer," because it gives
no
> > clear warning to its victims. It is an invisible gas with no taste or
> > smell.
> > Even small concentrations of Carbon Monoxide in the ambient air can
create
> > a
> > health hazard because the exposure to CO reduces the blood's ability to
> > carry oxygen. "
> >
> > "Effects at various concentrations of CO:
> >
> > 9 ppm: The maximum allowable concentration for short-term exposure in a
> > living ambient.
> >
> > 35 ppm: The maximum allowable concentration for continuous exposure in
any
> > eight hour period, according to ASHRAE .
> >
> > According to US federal law, OSHA:
> >
> > 200 ppm: The maximum allowable concentration for any time, Headaches,
> > fatigue, nausea after 2-3 hours.
> >
> > 800 ppm: Nausea and convulsions within 45 min. Death within 2-3 hours.
> >
> > 3200 ppm: Headache and nausea within 5-10 min. Death within 30 min."
> >
> > I hope this helps- Jack>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 14:58:18 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Replacement Power Jack?
Bobby,
Airstream uses the H&H series from Barker Engineering. The jacks
available in the after market are not quite as tricked up though.
Airstream has them add a utility light to the post. Barker offers
similar model with the same feature in the after market, just not
exactly the same one Airstream uses.
Word of caution. When you are shopping consider the weight rating. The
rating, typically 2500 -3500 lb. is the capacity of the jack. Just keep
in mind the jack isn't just holding up the trailer. It is also lifting
the tow vehicle while you are hitching up.
Charlie
gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Hello all.
>After working on my power jack for the last time I have decided to replace
>it.
>There are several available but I was wondering what brand the new Airstreams
>come with. Anyone know? Any recommendations?
>
>Thanks
>Bobby
>'73 Ambassador
>Valdosta, GA
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 15:07:53 -0600
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
I ended up climbing out the then unscreened front window to get a
> screwdriver so as to take it apart. I tried fiddling with the lock from
the
> outside (which had locked itself in the process) and using the key,
finally
> got it to open. I took the lock apart only to find nothing amiss. I
> reinstalled it and haven't had that problem again
>
> Ideas anybody?
hey glyn
i purchased a new lockset for my 66 from inland and after a short time found
i could not open it from the outside. after fiddling with it i finally got
it to open. (this is important because you can only disassemble the lockset
from the inside and all windows were locked). anyway, i took it apart and
found that there is a phillips head screw centered in the inside that had
come loose that held the outside handle tightly to the mechanism that opens
the stricker bar. i retighten it and have had no further problems. i found
that the lockset should be turned only clockwise to open it. when turned
counterclockwise, it seems to put pressure on that set screw, causing it to
loosen. not sure if this is the same problem you had but thought i would
tell you my experience.
harry
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 18:22:20 EDT
From: AnnZ3@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
In a message dated 9/9/2004 12:39:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net writes:
Why on earth did you do that?" the other guy asks...
The first guy replies "You don't think I'm going down there for fifty cents do
you?"
LOL....I LOVE it!!! Thanks Mark..
Ann
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 16:36:35 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
Thanks man,
I know that screw and will check it tonight. I'll also take your advice
and from now on only turn it clockwise from now on, an excellent idea, thank
you!
Glyn
> From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 15:07:53 -0600
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
>
> I ended up climbing out the then unscreened front window to get a
>> screwdriver so as to take it apart. I tried fiddling with the lock from
> the
>> outside (which had locked itself in the process) and using the key,
> finally
>> got it to open. I took the lock apart only to find nothing amiss. I
>> reinstalled it and haven't had that problem again
>>
>> Ideas anybody?
>
>
> hey glyn
> i purchased a new lockset for my 66 from inland and after a short time found
> i could not open it from the outside. after fiddling with it i finally got
> it to open. (this is important because you can only disassemble the lockset
> from the inside and all windows were locked). anyway, i took it apart and
> found that there is a phillips head screw centered in the inside that had
> come loose that held the outside handle tightly to the mechanism that opens
> the stricker bar. i retighten it and have had no further problems. i found
> that the lockset should be turned only clockwise to open it. when turned
> counterclockwise, it seems to put pressure on that set screw, causing it to
> loosen. not sure if this is the same problem you had but thought i would
> tell you my experience.
>
> harry
> 66 safari
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 9:21 AM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] door knob--locked inside!
>
>
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 16:40:37 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
Tim,
Doouuh! I guess I'm elected. Reminds me of a scene from the film, The
Magic Christian starring Peter Sellers and Ringo Star.
Too long to relate but if anyone ever sees the it, get it you'll love
it.
Glyn
> From: "Tim S." <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:12:18 -0700
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
>
> Glyn,
>
> Are you diving in for the quarter then, since cell phones are free? ;-)
>
> -Tim
>
>
>
> Mark,
>
> You need to update that joke. It should read a 25 cent piece and a cell
> phone. ; -)
>
> Glyn
>
>> From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 09:40:26 -0700
>> To: "AIRSTREAM" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>> Subject: [VAL] Down the toilet... (NOT Airstream related)
>>
>> To those with a sense of humor,
>>
>> All this toilet talk reminds me of the two guys sitting side by side in a
>> two-holer outhouse. The first guy stands to pull up his trousers and a
>> fifty-cent piece falls out of his pocket and---plop---right down the hole.
> He
>> shrugs his shoulders, reaches into his other pocket, pulls out a solid
> gold
>> pocket watch and throws IT down the hole---PLOP.
>>
>> "Why on earth did you do that?" the other guy asks...
>>
>> The first guy replies "You don't think I'm going down there for fifty
> cents do
>> you?"
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 21:26:13 -0500
From: "William Alpert" <wbalpert@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 13:04:38 -0700
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
But, we need a piece for the furnace, and I think that it might be a bit
of
a challenge. We need the piece that goes from the end of the thermocouple
to the gas line ect. I don't know how better to explain it.
...what a fluff-head I am...the furnace is a suburban NT-22A
Sharon,
I have a copy of the manual I found somewhere on the internet once.
(Surburban Dyna Trail NT-22A Ducted discharge, 12 volts d.c. only, 22,000
Btu/hr. input. Bottom plenum.) You need a Thermocouple, 88D-30. Part
#160527. The parts diagram (part 24) shows the thermocouple that goes into
the furnace at the pilot light flame and the wire that runs around the
furnace to screw into the gas valve is all one unit. Apparently very
similar to the ones on home furnaces and water heaters. The exact part may
not be available as Suburban is reluctant to provide parts for furnaces
that old due to liability. I would guess that a universal thermocouple
from the neighborhood hardware store/home center might work as long at is
will screw into the gas valve. Take the old one along as a guide. (They do
come in various lengths to fit the application - too long is always better
than too short!)
If you want a copy of the manual, send me a snail mail address off line and
I'll make you one faster than a Brittney Spears marriage.
Bill in Kansas City
64 Safari
77 Argosy.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 20:35:34 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Dr J? a question about heating
What baseboard space? In my Caravel, only the space under the
present heater and the oven and maybe at the front wall under the
dinette isn't used for a drawer front or walk way. And that front wall has
drawers opening sliding right next to it. Might as well toss in an electric
heater in the original gas heater space and use it directly. Its much
simpler than running pipes and finding a place for another gadget to
heat the water in the pipes. And probably a hair more efficient to use
electric heat directly instead of with water as the intermediate.
The thing about water as the intermediate is that the water changes
temperature much more slowly than the electric heating elements going
on and off in response to the water tank thermostat making for more
even heat. The water pump hurts the overall efficiency by the energy it
requires. I see in my handy RV catalog that American Standard water
heaters have 12,000 to 16,000 PTU inputs while Atwood have 8,800 to
10,000 BTU inputs on LP. Since the 5000 BTU of my electric heater takes
care of my Caravel down to 24 F, these are probably adequate for
heating trailer and domestic water at the same time.
While the water thermal mass makes for uniform heat, that also means
that after arriving at a campsite with the water heater off for traveling
(say through the Baltimore Tunnel) that heat is going to be a long time
coming where the electric heater direct gives with the heat in a second
or two.
Paul suggests radiant heat in the floor with a separate water heater.
Works but isn't as efficient as electric radiant heat wires in the floor.
Though if the water is heated by LP its quite a bit more cost effective. It
would be nice when using the bathroom to have included radiant heat
under the shower pan, but without really major work that could be
difficult to accomplish in my Caravel. It would be more practical in those
vintage Airstreams with a rear service door (which helps that floor deck
rot more rapidly).
I've been planning a new house for more than a decade and in my
plans I've been planning for radiant (baseboard) heat, zoned, and using
the main water heater for the heat source. In my plan I would run the
water heater at a fairly high temperature (160 to 180 F) to get more BTUs
per gallon of water, then use that same water for the normal hot water
uses by mixing it with cold water in a thermostatically controlled mixing
valve. That saves one water heater, gets better temperature control at
the faucets, but means the heating system is essentially open getting
fresh water all the time which can lead to increased radiator and
plumbing corrosion over that of a closed system that can have anti
corrosion additives in the antifreeze.
In my latest house plans where I have begun to convert a metal
machine shed into house I'm simply going to heat with electric
baseboard units with individual thermostats in each room. Its the
cheapest and quickest to install and the most expensive to operate
but I plan excessive thicknesses of insulation in floor, walls, and ceiling.
Those levels of insulation are not in the vintage Airstream. Progress is
slow, I'm still emptying the machine shed, but I did put in the first piece
of new wood last Friday to test one design concept. I have stacks and
stacks of wood and windows and doors to put in along with some steel
and I need to order some flat trusses for the ceiling one of these first
days. With a drop in ceiling throughout, there will be a space available
for running pipes should I decide to convert to the water system in the
distant future.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 20:25:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: M Tate <firebirdesprit@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] 12 volt lights
Good evening all,
Does anyone know where I can get some 12 v interior lights for my '65 Overlander.
I have some in her now that take an 1141 old-style bulb. These fixtures have are
reading lights and have a cone-shaped metal shade that swivels and a turn switch
on the back of each bulb. I like the look of these and would like some more to add
on. I have seen some overhead airplane-like lights that use a halogen bulb and even
have a dimmer. I guess I might use these if I cannot find anything else.
Thanks to all !!!
Mark, Pennie and Rachel
'65 Overlander Land Yacht
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 19:49:59 -0700
From: Gary Heebner <nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
> Home centers and hardware stores generally carry smoke and CO
> detectors, though many of theirs are not rated for mobile home or RV
Hi all,
A few years ago there was a consumer alert segment on a tv program (20/20,
or the like) regarding CO detectors. What a wake-up call--they took a
selection of detectors from a large box outlet and had them independently
tested. All of them failed in the sensitivity tests, and the conclusion was
that a person would be suffering from some CO poisoning before the alarm
would sound. There was no clear labelling on any of the units that provided
the actual sensitivity rating, thus making comparison shopping impossible.
This was contrasted against smoke detectors which are required by gov't
regulation to sound before there is discernable smoke. The moral--buyer
beware, but don't just rely on the CO detector for your safety.
Stay safe!
Gary
"4slice"
Prince George, BC
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V2 #2
***********************
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