VAL Digest V2 #17

VAL Digest        Saturday, September 25 2004        Volume 02 : Number 017




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V2 #15
Re: [VAL] seam sealing
[VAL] RE: seam sealing
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V2 #15
[VAL] Fridge unlevel before departure?
Re: [VAL] Fridge unlevel before departure?
[VAL] Re: 56 Caravenner wood color
Re: [VAL] Re: 56 Caravenner wood color
Re: [VAL] RE: seam sealing
Re: [VAL] 49 Liner
Re: [VAL] RE: seam sealing
Re: [VAL] RE: seam sealing
Re: [VAL] RE: seam sealing
Re: [VAL] Fridge unlevel before departure?
Re: [VAL] seam sealing

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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 08:32:03 -0500
From: "Casey McDonough" <cmcdonough1@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V2 #15

I'm restoring a 56 Caravanner and need to replace some of the woodwork. It
is mostly all birch and it is stained natural (I think)  I'm wondering if
anyone out there has replaced some pieces of wood and got things to match?
Also, it looks like it was shellacked and maybe that made things darker.

I'm using WATCO Danish oil - golden oak color.

Thanks,

Casey McDonough
Email	CBM@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com

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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 09:49:13 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] seam sealing

Hi Gary,

Get the sealer out and get to it. Try to remove any loose caulk but 
without scratching. Clean the seam well with mineral spirits and caulk.

When you have the trailer stripped and polished and recoated, you will 
need to do it again. but unless you are keeping it in a building, the 
water will rot out your floor. Or more likely, make the rot worse.

Caulking is the first job on an old AS. Otherwise you may have to tear 
out other repairs to fix the floor.Not surprising since a roof on a 
house lasts only about 20 years.

Daisy (Vulkem Queen)

Gary Heebner wrote:

> Hello,
> The fall chill is in the air in the great white north, so its time to close up
> the toaster for the season.  I would like to seal the seams near the four
> 'corners' where the straight sides meet the curved panels at both ends--the
> plywood is wet at all corners every time it rains, and the plywood floor
> surface is starting to degrade slightly.  The aluminum clearcoat is failing in
> places, so stripping and polishing is on the long-term list.
> My question:  When I re-seal the seams with Parbond and Vulkem, should I be
> removing the clearcoat at the seams before sealing, or can I seal now, and not
> worry about the clear under the sealant when it comes time to strip the whole
> trailer?
> 
> Looking forward to expert opinions,
> Gary H.
> 4slice
> '77 31'
> Prince George, BC
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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> 
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 07:05:53 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] RE: seam sealing

Seam sealing is really only needed if you are addressing a known seam
leak, usually from a dent damage or repair, or after refinishing the
skin to provide a smooth edge, keeping moisture and dirt from collecting
in the seam.

The skins are lapped over each other with that whole in-between surface
sealed with sealant at production.  If you do reseal, wait for the
polishing, or after the clearcoat removal.  The sealant won't stay put
if applied over the clearcoat.  I noticed you've picked the Parbond or
Vulkem over silicone - good choice.  Never use silicone, as you have
probably gathered.

Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com

>
> Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 20:20:13 -0700
> From: Gary Heebner <nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
> Subject: [VAL] seam sealing
>
> Hello,
> The fall chill is in the air in the great white north, so its
> time to close up
> the toaster for the season.  I would like to seal the seams
> near the four
> 'corners' where the straight sides meet the curved panels at
> both ends--the
> plywood is wet at all corners every time it rains, and the
> plywood floor
> surface is starting to degrade slightly.  The aluminum
> clearcoat is failing in
> places, so stripping and polishing is on the long-term list.
> My question:  When I re-seal the seams with Parbond and
> Vulkem, should I be
> removing the clearcoat at the seams before sealing, or can I
> seal now, and not
> worry about the clear under the sealant when it comes time to
> strip the whole
> trailer?
>
> Looking forward to expert opinions,
> Gary H.
> 4slice
> '77 31'
> Prince George, BC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 08:11:30 -0600
From: Robert Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V2 #15

Casey McDonough wrote:
"I'm wondering if anyone out there has replaced some pieces of wood and 
got things to match?"


My wife had success, but it took mixing a 'coctail' of multiple colors 
to acheive the proper result:
http://www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/During/gaucho.html

Rob Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
Denver, CO

------------------------------

Date: 24 Sep 2004 14:35:32 -0000
From: "Tom Williams" <tcwilliams@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Fridge unlevel before departure?

When I pre-cool my Dometic refrigerator at home in the driveway before a 
trip, I have to have my Overlander unhitched to level it as my driveway is 
sloped left-to-right & forward-to-aft.  When we are ready to hit the road, 
I then just rehitch it and go.  Lately, though, there has been an 
increasing amount of time between being ready to go, and actually pulling 
out of the driveway.

Short of putting my tow vehicle on blocks, I am unaware of a means of 
leveling the Overlander without unhitching.

I'm curious about how long I can safely run the refrigerator when it is 
sitting off-level in the driveway.  Are we talking an hour, a half-day or 
what?  Keep in mind I plan to pre-cool while level - I'm just concerned 
about after I hitch up.

Thanks,
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 10:03:30 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Fridge unlevel before departure?

The Dometic manual probably has a limit on tilt while operating. 

For safety of the refrigerator, I be tempted to get it cold while level then 
as soon as I hitched it, I'd turn it off until I was ready to travel, letting the 
cold contents keep cold from the insulation for those hours between 
hitching and leaving.

I might not run the refrigerator while driving anyway so it would have to 
(and will) hold cool until my first overnight stop. If my Dometic worked, 
that's how I'd do it. In the meantime ice and foam coolers are effective.

Gerald

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 10:03:36 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: 56 Caravenner wood color

If it is shellac, its likely quite a bit darker than the original finish. Watch 
out for making the new finish as dark and then deciding to refinish the 
old wood. Hitting that old shellac with something like Formby's refinisher 
will lighten it drastically. New finishes and old finishes probably won't 
darken together. To make and keep a match it may be necessary to 
strip the old finish, then stain the new wood to match the bared old 
wood and finish alike.

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 10:38:55 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: 56 Caravenner wood color

Actually, there are many grades of shellac, from white (clear) to deep brown,
with many variations in between, but I doubt anybody would have used shellac
on an interior finish of a travel trailer or motorhome...it's just not very
durable and water will damage the finish.

More than likely, it's a lacquer, which dries quickly, yet leaves a nice
finish which is much more water tolerant.  A quick test is to wipe the
suspected shellacked area with a little alcohol...if it softens, or colors the
rag, it's shellac, if not, it's not.

Hope that helped,

Mark in Modesto

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 10:59:02 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: seam sealing

Just a note regarding Vulkem. Does it ever come in small tubes - say, 
toothpaste size? Those big caulking gun size ones are horrible to use - 
I hate caulking guns anyway. They are very irksome to work with - you 
need a gorilla to squeeze a steady bead with them. I got so aggravated 
with the gun that I bought some of GE's new aluminum SILICONE sealer 
stuff and despite all advice to the contrary on this board, have been 
using it in lieu of Vulkem. Guess I'll be pillared and kicked out into 
the cold after this confession, but the stuff works great - it is 
specifically made to be used on aluminum, stays pliable forever, has a 
wide temp range and comes in a great little tube with a neato 
applicator tip. Long live GE!
Jo Ann
On Sep 2004, at 7:05 AM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> Seam sealing is really only needed if you are addressing a known seam
> leak, usually from a dent damage or repair, or after refinishing the
> skin to provide a smooth edge, keeping moisture and dirt from 
> collecting
> in the seam.
>
> The skins are lapped over each other with that whole in-between surface
> sealed with sealant at production.  If you do reseal, wait for the
> polishing, or after the clearcoat removal.  The sealant won't stay put
> if applied over the clearcoat.  I noticed you've picked the Parbond or
> Vulkem over silicone - good choice.  Never use silicone, as you have
> probably gathered.
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
>
>>
>> Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 20:20:13 -0700
>> From: Gary Heebner <nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
>> Subject: [VAL] seam sealing
>>
>> Hello,
>> The fall chill is in the air in the great white north, so its
>> time to close up
>> the toaster for the season.  I would like to seal the seams
>> near the four
>> 'corners' where the straight sides meet the curved panels at
>> both ends--the
>> plywood is wet at all corners every time it rains, and the
>> plywood floor
>> surface is starting to degrade slightly.  The aluminum
>> clearcoat is failing in
>> places, so stripping and polishing is on the long-term list.
>> My question:  When I re-seal the seams with Parbond and
>> Vulkem, should I be
>> removing the clearcoat at the seams before sealing, or can I
>> seal now, and not
>> worry about the clear under the sealant when it comes time to
>> strip the whole
>> trailer?
>>
>> Looking forward to expert opinions,
>> Gary H.
>> 4slice
>> '77 31'
>> Prince George, BC
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>
>
>
slslsl

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 11:11:58 -0700
From: "Dallas Blair" <photo@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 49 Liner

Chuck, I have a question for you...If you had a chance to buy a 1953
17'6"  Airstream with a good interior and original,,,,plus a pretty good
exterior........Would you buy it for 5000..?..I think its worth close to
10000 but  I am not too brave today. would .appreciate your opinion .
Dallas.   The 17' 6" trailer is smallest one they made that year...
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <c-l@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 11:56 PM
Subject: [VAL] 49 Liner


> My wife and I are aquiring a 1949 Airstream Liner.  We have checked out
the photos on the Vintage Airstream archive picture page, but need more
interior info and pictures for restoration. If anyone out there has a 49
Liner and could sare some interior pictures of their units, it would be of
grat help to us.
> Thanks in Advance,
> Chuck & Lynn
> 1965 Overlander
> 1960 Tradewind Int.
> 1949 Liner
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 14:13:48 -0400
From: "Wally" <maltnhops@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: seam sealing

Jo Ann,

    Although you should be siliconed-and-feathered for using silicone, I
thought I would mention that www.airstreamdreams.com recommends and sells
large syringes for use with vulkem.

Wally
'66 Caravel

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>


> Just a note regarding Vulkem. Does it ever come in small tubes - say,
> toothpaste size? Those big caulking gun size ones are horrible to use -
> I hate caulking guns anyway. They are very irksome to work with - you
> need a gorilla to squeeze a steady bead with them. I got so aggravated
> with the gun that I bought some of GE's new aluminum SILICONE sealer
> stuff and despite all advice to the contrary on this board, have been
> using it in lieu of Vulkem. Guess I'll be pillared and kicked out into
> the cold after this confession, but the stuff works great - it is
> specifically made to be used on aluminum, stays pliable forever, has a
> wide temp range and comes in a great little tube with a neato
> applicator tip. Long live GE!
> Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 14:36:22 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: seam sealing

Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: seam sealing


> Just a note regarding Vulkem. Does it ever come in small tubes - say,
> toothpaste size? Those big caulking gun size ones are horrible to use -
> I hate caulking guns anyway.

Many people recommend filling large syringes from the large vulkem tubes
which gives a small bead. Airstreamdreams has them.
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 12:26:04 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: seam sealing

Colin:
    Did it. Still the pits.
Jo Ann
>> Just a note regarding Vulkem. Does it ever come in small tubes - say,
>> toothpaste size? Those big caulking gun size ones are horrible to use 
>> -
>> I hate caulking guns anyway.
>
> Many people recommend filling large syringes from the large vulkem 
> tubes
> which gives a small bead. Airstreamdreams has them.
> Colin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 16:12:04 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Fridge unlevel before departure?

Tom,

Not more than a couple of hours. The concern is that if it runs to long 
in an off level position it will create a hot spot that will create 
bubbles in the coolant. These bubble can//will stop the flow of coolant.

Charlie

Tom Williams wrote:

>When I pre-cool my Dometic refrigerator at home in the driveway before a 
>trip, I have to have my Overlander unhitched to level it as my driveway is 
>sloped left-to-right & forward-to-aft.  When we are ready to hit the road, 
>I then just rehitch it and go.  Lately, though, there has been an 
>increasing amount of time between being ready to go, and actually pulling 
>out of the driveway.
>
>Short of putting my tow vehicle on blocks, I am unaware of a means of 
>leveling the Overlander without unhitching.
>
>I'm curious about how long I can safely run the refrigerator when it is 
>sitting off-level in the driveway.  Are we talking an hour, a half-day or 
>what?  Keep in mind I plan to pre-cool while level - I'm just concerned 
>about after I hitch up.
>
>Thanks,
>Tom
>
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>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 21:43:42 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] seam sealing

The major problems with silicon seals have been that they don't really 
last all that long, and they have to be completely remove before 
anything else (including more silicone) can be applied to fix the leak.

For working with Vulkem I find its wise to spend more than $1.94 for the 
caulking gun. I've been using ones that I probably spent half that ten 
or fifteen years ago. Last week I picked up a "skeleton" caulking gun. It 
has two bars instead of the bathtub for the tube and a friction drive 
on a hex shaft instead of a notched push shaft. I tried it today for the 
first time and it was on a tube of Vulkem. I had little problem running a 
10 foot long bead along a plank that had weathered for more than 15 
years.

There is also a air hose driven caulking gun that doesn't require 
squeezing, but it costs more than $15 or 20 the last I looked. The 
skeleton gun I used today cost a whole $2.94 at Lowe's. If it works 
through four or five tubes it will have better live than the others and 
still won't run the cost of caulking up that much.

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V2 #17
************************


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