VAL Digest V2 #12

VAL Digest Monday, September 20 2004 Volume 02 : Number 012




-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] Introduction and (surprise) a question!
[VAL] RE: 71 Safari - Magic Chef range/oven pilot questions
Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems
Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems
Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems
Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems
RE: [VAL] new to list - seeking info re: original interior in 1971 Safari
Re: [VAL] RE: 71 Safari - Magic Chef range/oven pilot questions
Re: [VAL] new to list - seeking info re: original interior in 1971 Safari
Re: [VAL] new to list - seeking info re: original interior in 1971 Safari
Re: [VAL] original floor covering
Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems
[VAL] To all Vintage Bambi owners
Re: [VAL] To all Vintage Bambi owners
Re: [VAL] original floor covering
Re: [VAL] original floor covering
Re: [VAL] original floor covering
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V2 #11

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 10:16:13 EDT
From: JSmith1805@aol.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Introduction and (surprise) a question!

I bought mt Fantastic fan at the FL state rally a couple of yeras ago.It has 
all the bells and whistles..In the 1st couple of month they replaced the 
interior workings 3 times before i got one to work eather the fan would not run or 
the crover would nor operate. Finally eavery thing worked and I thought I was 
out of the woods when the fan gave up the goast. Ok the crover still worked ok 
so I just put in a small fan to circulate the air and let the crover open and 
close normaly.one day it was raining I looked out and the crover was 1/2 way 
open I checked and the little motor was running happly but I had to close the 
crover manually. To get the little motor to quir I had to remone the fuse to 
the fan.We got some fsairly brisk winds during the harricane Charly and I noted 
the crover had blown open and lay flat on top og the trailer I taped it shut 
I sar the controll arm was laying on the screen apperantly it is disconnected 
on both ends I Havent looked.
I will say this the compisany had replaced the units with no question I just 
got tired of messing with it If I eaver get to a rally where there is a 
factory Rep I will have them look at it an meby they can get the thing to work. 
untill then I have the trailer stored at my house and have run a dedicated elect 
service to it and keep it pluged in eo will continue to use the serup I have 
now when stored and if the fan eacer works will use it now ans then on trips.
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 16:42:01 -00
From: "John Schubert" 
Subject: [VAL] RE: 71 Safari - Magic Chef range/oven pilot questions

Marge,
Yes the burner is near the bottom inside of the oven, next to it on
your left (usually) is the pilot tube, sorry I did'nt explain that in
the forum (www.airstream.com) answer, no need to pull the floor. A
previous owner may have installed a shutoff valve but normally the
oven/burner knobs turn the gas off.

John

- ---- Original Message ----
>Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 10:25:51 -0700
>From: "MK / JS" 
>Subject: [VAL] 71 Safari - Magic Chef range/oven pilot questions
>
>Hi - I am new to Airstreams and pilot lights.
>
>Before I start my question, please be advised that we know there is
>LPG
>flowing to the range, as we were able to light one of the burners.
>
>The very brief instructions in the trailer manual say to light the
>range pilot
>by turning the gas ON to ONE of the range burners, and light with
>match. OK,
>we did that, and the flame around the burner looks normal. But how
>does that
>light the pilot, which according to diagram, appears to be in the
>center "hub"
>between the four burners. Should there be a flame visible in that
>center hub?
>
>I presume that there is a SECOND pilot for the oven, which a helpful
>forum
>member said is near the "burner" for the oven. Is the BURNER he is
>referring
>to located at the bottom of the oven? Does the oven floor lift? I
>presume
>there is a gas shut-off for the oven, or is there one shut-off for
>the entire
>appliance? (oven and range)
>
>I hope my ignorance is not too annoying - Thank you
>Marg in the Pac NW

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 15:54:27 -0400
From: "William Moore" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems

Well, hooking in the battery didn't work. I'm going to abort the problem
for now. 110V is working fine and I'll be hooked up at all times to a 30A
power source. I would eventually like to use to vent fans and 12V lights of
course, but for now I'll just plug in some lights. Thanks for the replies
and feel free to keep them coming.
Bill
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Moore" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems


> Thanks for the replies. It sounds like I need to give it a try with a
> battery. I will get a battery and will let you know if that was the
"fix".
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robert Cornute" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 10:10 AM
> Subject: RE: [VAL] 12V dc problems
>
>
> > Bill; try with the battery in the trailer and hooked up to the system!
> > It should work:) Bob Cornute '77 31' Intrernational
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: valist-admin@tompatterson.com
> > [mailto:valist-admin@tompatterson.com] On Behalf Of William Moore
> > Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 12:00 AM
> > To: valist@tompatterson.com
> > Subject: [VAL] 12V dc problems
> >
> > Hello,
> > I am the proud new owner of a 1971 Streamline trailer. All of the 110V
> > outlets and such work fine (including A/C). None of the 12V DC light
> > fixtures
> > or fans work. The trailer has a Magnetek 3230 converter. I checked all
> > of
> > the fuses on it's DC panel. One 20a fuse was blown and I changed it,
> > but
> > still have no 12V power. I do not have a battery on board, but I didn't
> > think
> > that mattered when hooking up to 110V power source. I have a volt
> > meter. Can
> > someone point me in the right direction to isolating the problem? I
> > guess I
> > need some troubleshooting tips.
> > Thanks,
> > Bill Moore
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 16:15:33 -0400
From: "William Moore" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems

OK. Hold the fort. The 12V system is now working directly from the battery
IF I am not plugged in to house. When I am plugged in to 110V, it does not
work.
Please answer SLOWLY. I'm not an electrician, but I have a basic knowledge
of it.
Thanks,
Bill
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Moore" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems


> Thanks for the replies. It sounds like I need to give it a try with a
> battery. I will get a battery and will let you know if that was the
"fix".
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robert Cornute" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 10:10 AM
> Subject: RE: [VAL] 12V dc problems
>
>
> > Bill; try with the battery in the trailer and hooked up to the system!
> > It should work:) Bob Cornute '77 31' Intrernational
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: valist-admin@tompatterson.com
> > [mailto:valist-admin@tompatterson.com] On Behalf Of William Moore
> > Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 12:00 AM
> > To: valist@tompatterson.com
> > Subject: [VAL] 12V dc problems
> >
> > Hello,
> > I am the proud new owner of a 1971 Streamline trailer. All of the 110V
> > outlets and such work fine (including A/C). None of the 12V DC light
> > fixtures
> > or fans work. The trailer has a Magnetek 3230 converter. I checked all
> > of
> > the fuses on it's DC panel. One 20a fuse was blown and I changed it,
> > but
> > still have no 12V power. I do not have a battery on board, but I didn't
> > think
> > that mattered when hooking up to 110V power source. I have a volt
> > meter. Can
> > someone point me in the right direction to isolating the problem? I
> > guess I
> > need some troubleshooting tips.
> > Thanks,
> > Bill Moore
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 16:23:45 -0400
From: "Tom" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems

Sounds like you have no power from the converter to the battery.

sounds like the converter is not converting 110 to 12v

layman's terms -- sounds like a bad converter

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Moore" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems


> OK. Hold the fort. The 12V system is now working directly from the 
> battery
> IF I am not plugged in to house. When I am plugged in to 110V, it does 
> not
> work.
> Please answer SLOWLY. I'm not an electrician, but I have a basic 
> knowledge
> of it.
> Thanks,
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "William Moore" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 12:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems
>
>
>> Thanks for the replies. It sounds like I need to give it a try with a
>> battery. I will get a battery and will let you know if that was the
> "fix".
>> Bill
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Robert Cornute" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 10:10 AM
>> Subject: RE: [VAL] 12V dc problems
>>
>>
>> > Bill; try with the battery in the trailer and hooked up to the system!
>> > It should work:) Bob Cornute '77 31' Intrernational
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: valist-admin@tompatterson.com
>> > [mailto:valist-admin@tompatterson.com] On Behalf Of William Moore
>> > Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 12:00 AM
>> > To: valist@tompatterson.com
>> > Subject: [VAL] 12V dc problems
>> >
>> > Hello,
>> > I am the proud new owner of a 1971 Streamline trailer. All of the 110V
>> > outlets and such work fine (including A/C). None of the 12V DC light
>> > fixtures
>> > or fans work. The trailer has a Magnetek 3230 converter. I checked 
>> > all
>> > of
>> > the fuses on it's DC panel. One 20a fuse was blown and I changed it,
>> > but
>> > still have no 12V power. I do not have a battery on board, but I 
>> > didn't
>> > think
>> > that mattered when hooking up to 110V power source. I have a volt
>> > meter. Can
>> > someone point me in the right direction to isolating the problem? I
>> > guess I
>> > need some troubleshooting tips.
>> > Thanks,
>> > Bill Moore
>> >
>> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>> >
>> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>> >
>> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>> >
>> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 16:47:32 -0500
From: Dean 
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems

Almost sounds like some one before you has messed with it...


See You On the Road
Dean & Kay
WBCCI 2486
IOWA


On Sep 19, 2004, at 3:15 PM, William Moore wrote:

> OK. Hold the fort. The 12V system is now working directly from the 
> battery
> IF I am not plugged in to house. When I am plugged in to 110V, it 
> does not
> work.
> Please answer SLOWLY. I'm not an electrician, but I have a basic 
> knowledge
> of it.
> Thanks,
> Bill

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 15:52:26 -0700
From: "Tim S." 
Subject: RE: [VAL] new to list - seeking info re: original interior in 1971 Safari

- -----Original Message-----

Can anyone tell us ...

What was the original flooring? (it currently has cheap self-stick tiles on
the plywood subfloor). Can I use sheet vinyl flooring to replace the current
vinyl tiles?

- ---

The original flooring in my '71 was shag carpeting. It was yellow! We took
it out as well and installed those cheap tiles. I see no reason why you
can't put in any flooring you like.

- ----
What was the original upholstery?

Not sure how to answer this one. Just regular material that matched the
flooring. I think ours was yellow but it was too dry rotted to be used and
all had to be replaced.

- -----

What did the bath look like originally - ours has pale yellow tambour door
on
vanity, and the basin is a pale yellow/ivory. The toilet is also a light
yellow plastic as is the shower floor. There is a pale yellow floral trim
around the vanity (above the tambour)

That sounds original to me. The plastic or fiberglass furnishings have
yellowed over time. The plastic tambour door is original as well is the
toilet. There are specialty paints some have used such as *Tough as Tiles*
to update the colors and make a cleaner look. I have not tried this.

- ----

What were the original window covers in bath? (currently has a roller blind)

Mine has/had a roller blind.

- -----

What was the original "door" between the bedroom and the bath?

It's a folding door like a accordion. It is vinyl covered cardboard. That
rolls and folds on a upper track.

- ----

What was originally on the drop-down exterior step (currently has ugly
purple
carpet glued to step)

Nothing. That was added by a previous owner.

- ----


I can tell that the original ceiling/wall color was light beige with brown
flecks in it. Unfort., somebody has painted most of it an off-white. Any
advice for removing the paint? I don't was to harm the original surface.

It originally had a vinyl covering the interior aluminum. Too bad someone
painted it as it is quite durable. Maybe try some mild paint strippers in a
test spot. Try Citra strip.

- ----

The bulkhead wall to my left as I step up into the trailer has been sponge
painted (agh!) -- what's underneath this artistry - is it the fake dark
brown
wood? (or the beige vinyl?)

Fake dark paneling.

- --

I have several more questions re: this trailer - however I will post
separately as they are different topic.

Good luck with your new trailer!


- -Tim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 20:05:46 -0400
From: Daisy Welch 
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: 71 Safari - Magic Chef range/oven pilot questions

On my '73, there are two settings at the off point on the oven dial, an 
OFF, which leaves the pilot on and a pilot off, which turns it off.

There is a pilot for the stove top too, but I never bothered to see why 
it doesn't work.

I do have the origonal directions for my stove if that would help.

Daisy

John Schubert wrote:

> Marge,
> Yes the burner is near the bottom inside of the oven, next to it on
> your left (usually) is the pilot tube, sorry I did'nt explain that in
> the forum (www.airstream.com) answer, no need to pull the floor. A
> previous owner may have installed a shutoff valve but normally the
> oven/burner knobs turn the gas off.
> 
> John
> 
> ---- Original Message ----
> 
>>Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 10:25:51 -0700
>>From: "MK / JS" 
>>Subject: [VAL] 71 Safari - Magic Chef range/oven pilot questions
>>
>>Hi - I am new to Airstreams and pilot lights.
>>
>>Before I start my question, please be advised that we know there is
>>LPG
>>flowing to the range, as we were able to light one of the burners.
>>
>>The very brief instructions in the trailer manual say to light the
>>range pilot
>>by turning the gas ON to ONE of the range burners, and light with
>>match. OK,
>>we did that, and the flame around the burner looks normal. But how
>>does that
>>light the pilot, which according to diagram, appears to be in the
>>center "hub"
>>between the four burners. Should there be a flame visible in that
>>center hub?
>>
>>I presume that there is a SECOND pilot for the oven, which a helpful
>>forum
>>member said is near the "burner" for the oven. Is the BURNER he is
>>referring
>>to located at the bottom of the oven? Does the oven floor lift? I
>>presume
>>there is a gas shut-off for the oven, or is there one shut-off for
>>the entire
>>appliance? (oven and range)
>>
>>I hope my ignorance is not too annoying - Thank you
>>Marg in the Pac NW
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 20:33:13 -0400
From: Daisy Welch 
Subject: Re: [VAL] new to list - seeking info re: original interior in 1971 Safari

> What was the original upholstery?
> 

If it was anything like the pictures on the 1973 brochure I have, it was 
a fairly large swirly pattern in avocado or burnt orange. This is one 
place where restoring the trailer to it's original state might be a 
hideous mistake. A trailer, IMHO, is not a good place for loud large 
scale patterns. They tend to make so much visual noise that the trailer 
seems even smaller than it is.

> What were the original window covers in bath? (currently has a roller blind)
> 
> Mine has/had a roller blind


Mine had a roller blind too, and because it is an International and 
therefore a little fancy, it had a sort of gold fringy rick rack trim on 
the roller shade. Same on the roller shade over the sink in the kitchen. 
Mine were deeply stained with cigar smoke and fly specks.


Keep the questions coming !

Daisy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 20:50:04 -0400
From: 
Subject: Re: [VAL] new to list - seeking info re: original interior in 1971 Safari

9/18/2004 4:11:57 AM, "MK / JS"  wrote:

Welcome to the list -- the 12 step program for aluminum addicts.

I see that Tim S. already has given you a good response, and I will not duplicate. 
However, perhaps I can add a few comments from my 
'72 Safari.

>Love the brown wood paneling and the avacodo green counter top.

It is fortunate you love them, because most people perceive them as very dated now. 
Personally, I plan to redo both the countertop and 
the removable pieces of laminate (that is, most of the strips in those beautiful 
aluminum extrusions) in something much lighter. But this is 
not a real priority right now.

>What was the original flooring? 

I have a piece of the original shag carpet which is somewhere between the avocado 
countertop and the yellow upholstery.

>What was the original upholstry?

A rather bright yellow material similar to a damask, but rather thin and not terribly 
durable.

>What did the bath look like originally - 

Your description sounds original.

>What was the original "door" between the bedroom and the bath?

Mine appears to be a core of about 1/2" plywood skinned on the bedroom side with the dark 
laminate, and on the bathroom side with the 
cream colored laminate used in the bathroom e.g. on the closet door.

>What was originally on the drop-down exterior step 

A rectangle of black sandpaper-like material, similar to what is used on some skateboards.

>the original ceiling/wall 

Vinyl clad aluminum. From my own experience and what is reported by others on this list, it 
is nearly indestructable. Nothing sticks to it, 
so it should not be too hard to remove any paint.

>The bulkhead wall to my left as I step up into the trailer 

The "walnut" laminate.

>I have several more questions re: this trailer - 

Go for it, and enjoy our addiction.

-- Lew #4239

'72 Safari
Stuck in Ohio (again)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 19:03:20 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] original floor covering

I think the original floor covering was 9" square asbestos reinforced 
asphalt tiles. Modern tile is no longer that size so its not confused with the 
asbestos containing product.

Modern vinyl sheet or tile works, needs to have the wood deck smoothed 
well so the bumps don't show. One vintage Airstream has cork tiles, 
probably more than one has a laminate tongue and groove hardwood 
floor. Some have carpet.

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 21:20:50 -0400
From: "William Moore" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems

No doubt about that. There are two output dc lines from the converter and
it's grounded to the frame. I'm not sure if that's normal.
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12V dc problems


> Almost sounds like some one before you has messed with it...
>
>
> See You On the Road
> Dean & Kay
> WBCCI 2486
> IOWA
>
>
> On Sep 19, 2004, at 3:15 PM, William Moore wrote:
>
> > OK. Hold the fort. The 12V system is now working directly from the
> > battery
> > IF I am not plugged in to house. When I am plugged in to 110V, it
> > does not
> > work.
> > Please answer SLOWLY. I'm not an electrician, but I have a basic
> > knowledge
> > of it.
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 22:00:20 -0400
From: "Wally" 
Subject: [VAL] To all Vintage Bambi owners

Hi,

I need a favor from all vintage Bambi owners. I am considering the
purchase of a vintage Bambi and I would like to hear from current owners
regarding your personal experiences. What are the common things I should look
out for? Are there any quirks associated with Bambis because they don't
share some parts with the rest of the fleet? Do you have any advice at all
for a potential Bambi owner (as opposed to another model)? If it's not too
personal, what did you pay for your Bambi, when did you buy it and what
condition was it in? if anyone has a reply for me, please email me off list
at this address or wally@vintageairstreamer.com.

Thanks,
Wally

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 21:24:41 -0500
From: Daniel Childress 
Subject: Re: [VAL] To all Vintage Bambi owners

If you see it and like it, buy it before you blink. My experience 
has been it will go fast. I looked for one and found a 69 caravel. 
I have seen vintage bambi's sell for 5-12,000. On ebay if it is small 
the condition does not seem important.
Dan
>Hi,
>
> I need a favor from all vintage Bambi owners. I am considering the
>purchase of a vintage Bambi and I would like to hear from current owners
>regarding your personal experiences. What are the common things I should look
>out for? Are there any quirks associated with Bambis because they don't
>share some parts with the rest of the fleet? Do you have any advice at all
>for a potential Bambi owner (as opposed to another model)? If it's not too
>personal, what did you pay for your Bambi, when did you buy it and what
>condition was it in? if anyone has a reply for me, please email me off list
>at this address or wally@vintageairstreamer.com.
>
>Thanks,
>Wally
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 19:43:10 -0700
From: Glyn Judson 
Subject: Re: [VAL] original floor covering

Gerald,

I know you've mentioned the 9" square tile before but that might have
been earlier than at least 1969 and later. My original tiles were 12"
asphalt asbestos squares.

The closest tiles I could find to match was Armstrong Imperial texture,
pattern 51858 at Home Depot. That said, I looked high and low all over town
and came up blank trying to replace the tan marble looking originals and had
to content myself with the 51858. Maybe earlier 1960's and older had the
9" squares. 

Is it possible that by the early 1970's Airstream had done away with
tiles all together and gone to carpet alone?


Glyn

> From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" 
> Reply-To: valist@tompatterson.com
> Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 19:03:20 -0500
> To: valist@tompatterson.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] original floor covering
> 
> I think the original floor covering was 9" square asbestos reinforced
> asphalt tiles. Modern tile is no longer that size so its not confused with the
> asbestos containing product.
> 
> Modern vinyl sheet or tile works, needs to have the wood deck smoothed
> well so the bumps don't show. One vintage Airstream has cork tiles,
> probably more than one has a laminate tongue and groove hardwood
> floor. Some have carpet.
> 
> Gerald J.
> 
> -- 
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 22:02:29 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" 
Subject: Re: [VAL] original floor covering

Glyn, its entirely possible that the tile you are taking out were not the 
factory tile.

Its my understanding that the tile makers abandoned making 9" tile 
when they quit making them with asbestos reinforcement. That way its 
easier to tell that if its a 12" tile there's no asbestos fibers.

My '68 Owner's manual says the tile are vinyl asbestos. And to the best 
of my knowledge, they should have been 9"

I think only those insisting on exact restoration for museum quality will 
worry about an exact match. The rest of us will pick floors, finish, and 
fabrics to please our own tastes. I don't know but I suspect that when 
ordering an Airstream that hadn't been made yet, that a buyer could 
select floor colors, wood finish colors, and fabrics. After all, this is a top of 
the line product, not a cookie cutter product where cost is minimized by 
buying in huge bulk quantities. At the same time the factory surely made 
standard models for display and for dealers to sell off their lots. Between 
them they likely had a wide range of colors and fabrics.

I don't have any information before or after the year 1968. Carpet could 
have been an option, carpet could have been laid on top of tile quite 
easily. For back woods camping, carpet I wouldn't think would be a 
wise choice because of the grunge it easily accumulates. Vinyl asbestos 
tile being tough as steel (almost) cleans easily and stands up to grunge 
like sand and gravel tracked in. Though its not soft and warm to bare 
feet.

I know my dad replaced the tile in my Caravel. I don't know what the 
originals looked like or what size they were. He probably doesn't 
remember now. Most things he doesn't remember well these days.

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 21:27:23 -0700
From: Glyn Judson 
Subject: Re: [VAL] original floor covering

Gerald,

I almost included in my last note that the tiles in my 1969 Caravel are
original without a doubt. The tiles are under all cabinets and even in the
rear where the battery, etc are located. When I replaced the old with the
new Armstrong, I cheated as mush as I could by removing let's say, 12 at a
time of the old whole ones and replacing them with the new. My reasoning
was that I didn't want to have the center line start to wander left or right
due to my inexperience laying tiles. The old ones around every piece of
cabinetry, extended beyond them and toward the wheel wells, under the
refrigerator, Gaucho and water tank, and the after area I mentioned above.

Given the relatively untouched condition I bought her in, I'd have to
say that the 12" asbestos asphalt tiles were original. Although my 1969
owners manual doesn't specify size, it does mention the asbestos asphalt
composition of them.

Glyn



> From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" 
> Reply-To: valist@tompatterson.com
> Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 22:02:29 -0500
> To: valist@tompatterson.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] original floor covering
> 
> Glyn, its entirely possible that the tile you are taking out were not the
> factory tile.
> 
> Its my understanding that the tile makers abandoned making 9" tile
> when they quit making them with asbestos reinforcement. That way its
> easier to tell that if its a 12" tile there's no asbestos fibers.
> 
> My '68 Owner's manual says the tile are vinyl asbestos. And to the best
> of my knowledge, they should have been 9"
> 
> I think only those insisting on exact restoration for museum quality will
> worry about an exact match. The rest of us will pick floors, finish, and
> fabrics to please our own tastes. I don't know but I suspect that when
> ordering an Airstream that hadn't been made yet, that a buyer could
> select floor colors, wood finish colors, and fabrics. After all, this is a top
> of 
> the line product, not a cookie cutter product where cost is minimized by
> buying in huge bulk quantities. At the same time the factory surely made
> standard models for display and for dealers to sell off their lots. Between
> them they likely had a wide range of colors and fabrics.
> 
> I don't have any information before or after the year 1968. Carpet could
> have been an option, carpet could have been laid on top of tile quite
> easily. For back woods camping, carpet I wouldn't think would be a
> wise choice because of the grunge it easily accumulates. Vinyl asbestos
> tile being tough as steel (almost) cleans easily and stands up to grunge
> like sand and gravel tracked in. Though its not soft and warm to bare
> feet.
> 
> I know my dad replaced the tile in my Caravel. I don't know what the
> originals looked like or what size they were. He probably doesn't
> remember now. Most things he doesn't remember well these days.
> 
> Gerald J.
> 
> -- 
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 00:40:15 -0400
From: "Ed Farrell" 
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V2 #11

in every case the

>Hello,
>I am the proud new owner of a 1971 Streamline trailer. All of the 110V
>outlets and such work fine (including A/C). None of the 12V DC light
fixtures
>or fans work. The trailer has a Magnetek 3230 converter. I checked all of
>the fuses on it's DC panel. One 20a fuse was blown and I changed it, but
>still have no 12V power. I do not have a battery on board, but I didn't
think
>that mattered when hooking up to 110V power source. I have a volt meter.
Can
>someone point me in the right direction to isolating the problem? I guess
I
>need some troubleshooting tips.
>Thanks,
>Bill Moore
>


I would check out several things with a good voltmeter.

- - Is AC going into the Magnetek Converter?

- - Is 12 Volts coming out? You should be able to find the main output
terminals.

- - Some where there also is a master ground for the whole converter. These
often corrode and need cleaning, like every few years. When they are are
corroded the whole system goes dark.

- - Try getting one light to work.

- - I would check the grounds on each fixture - especially the outside light.
My 1969 seemed to have all its running lights out - I bought new bulbs but
found out in every case the ground was corroded on the light. So now I have
a 100 year supply of bulbs. My running light grounds seem to need cleaning
every 2-3 years.

In my case the old univolt converter (30 years old when I bought the
trailer) worked for a few days and then blew. The univolt relied on a bank
of capacitors and a big transformer to make DC current. The weak link,
over time is the capacitors. They are basically a cylinder of rolled up
foil and wax paper. They dry out, or short out as gravity aided by heat and
humidity pulls the wax downward. Eventually, the system fails.

In my other life I collect antique radios. Capacitor failure over time is a
fact of life - the darn things just don't last forever. Full restoration of
an old radio often involves replacing ALL the capacitors, regardless of
wether they test OK. (Vacuum tubes, on the other hand - can last
indefinitely. They fail randomly, with little corrolation to the age of he
part.) If you are going to rely on this converter I would consider
replacing it with a modern one. Any 30 year old converter is on borrowed
time unless it has been stored in ideal conditions.


good luck
Ed Farrell

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V2 #12
************************


-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html