VAL Digest V2 #1

VAL Digest         Thursday, September 9 2004         Volume 02 : Number 001




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] reciever hitch height question
[VAL] Tradewind for sale
Re: [VAL] Working underneath....
Re: [VAL] Dump valve replacement
Re: [VAL] Jack Story
[VAL] Quick re-intro, before the questions!
[VAL] 67 safari furnace
Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
[VAL] Re: Rearend Raising
Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace
[VAL] A/S for sale
Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 07:51:21 -0600
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] reciever hitch height question

hi roger
i am not using a load distributing hitch. after my post i relieved that
someone would check me on my math. i failed to mention that i have a high
rise ball that has an elevated base of about 2". by spinning the hitch i
will gain 4" but by changing out the ball, i will lose 2" so a net raise of
2" will result. mainly wanted to know the acceptability of putting the hitch
shaft 180 degrees. it seems that the consensus is that its ok.  thanks
harry
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] reciever hitch height question


> Harry,
>
> Changing to a straight receiver shaft will give you a 2" raise, and
turning
> your drop shaft upside down will give you a 4" raise. That might be a
little
> much.
>
> Are you not using a load distributing hitch?  That could help.
>
> Roger
>
> Roger Hightower, WBCCI #4165, VAC
> 1975 31' Sovereign
> 2002 Ford F-250 PSD
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 10:34:04 -0400
From: Pete Highlands <SATDJPETE@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Tradewind for sale

Hi All,
     Am sorry to say due to Family Health problems I am forced to sell 
my 1968 Tradewind. It has brand new Marathon tires has just been 
inspected at Turner Airstream so it is ready to go. I also have a newer 
style couch for it or for sale .With it are all the manuels and hitch 
also the equilizer bars and a sway bar
    the trailer is in better than fair condition and I used it once this 
season.  It has an awning  the hardware needs some work but it does 
function . It can be seen at Turner Airstream and I would like to get 
near $5,500. Pictures in and out are avail .contact myself at my E-mail 
or Jim or Mike at Turners Delivery can be arranged.

Pete Highlands

WBCCI 6385 VAC

Al-Mon-O, WDCU
                                                                        
                                                                        
              N3RLJ                                                      

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 14:14:08 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Working underneath....

    Dave
    Been there done that. Just last summer had to replace mine.
When my new Thetford valve arrived I went out to put it on. Thought it was
going to be fairly easy and quick. First rule of anything that looks quick and
simple - It ain't. But it's not to difficult once you get enough room to
work.
    What I did was pulled it up on blocks, chocked the tires then lowered the
tongue to gain a little more height. About 30-45 minutes later I was done.

Bobby
  ----- Original Message -----
  Wrom: LBXFGGMEPYOQKEDOTWFAOBUZXUWLSZLKBRNVWWCUFPE
  To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
  Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 10:25 PM
  Subject: [VAL] Working underneath....


  It is looking like I will have to work on the dump valve on my '77 31'
  Sovereign.

  This means I will be working underneath it. However, there isn't a whole
  lot of clearance underneath.

  Any suggestions on raising the portion of the trailer that is just behind
  the (dual) wheels?

  Dave


  _________________________________________________________________
  Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>

  WBCCI: 5074

  1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
  Cincinnati, Ohio

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 14:19:24 -0400
From: "Bobby Gill" <gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Dump valve replacement

Dave
You can get Valterra valves at most Rv shops.
I shopped around on-line and ordered a Thetford dump valve, like the original
from Southwest RV. Cost about $25. A little more than the Valterra ones are
but I figured if the Thetford lasted 30 plus years then that's the one I
wanted. When I worked at a RV place we used to swap out the Valterra valves on
SOB trailers fairly frequent.
Bobby
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dave Lowrey<mailto:airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
  To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
  Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 5:03 PM
  Subject: [VAL] Dump valve replacement


  Greetings,

  Well, the dump valve to the black tank on my '77 31' center bath Sovereign
  wont close all the way.

  I am currently trying the trick in the latest "Phred Sez....." which
  basically has you soak the valve in toilet chems for 24 hours.

  Being the pessimist that I am, I am assuming that this wont work.

  So, what's involved in fixing this? I assume that I have to replace the
  valve, and that everything is glued together, which will mean that a hack
  saw is involved in the removal process.

  Are the valves still available? Can I get them from a regular RV place or
  do I have to get them from Airstream?

  Any words of advice would be appreciated.

  Thanks!

  Dave

  _________________________________________________________________
  Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>

  WBCCI: 5074

  1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
  Cincinnati, Ohio

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 14:26:08 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Jack Story

Gary
I'm in the market for a new power jack. Where did you get yours and how much?
Here they want $285 for the Atwood 3500 lb jack.

Bobby
  ----- Original Message -----
  Wrom: BOHMKHJYFMYXOEAIJJPHSCRTNHGSWZIDREXCAXZOWCONE
  To: Vintage Airstream List<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
  Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 7:43 PM
  Subject: [VAL] Jack Story


  Howdy folks:

  I finally installed my electric jack yesterday.  As is usually the case, it
  didn't go exactly as I planned.

  I knew that I had to buy a jack with maximum 2" diameter shaft or it would
  require grinding out the mounting holes on the trailer tongue.  I didn't
  expect to encounter this:

  Apparently, the original manual jack, although it too was 2" had little or
  no paint on it when it was installed.  There are two holes in the web of
the
  A-frame, the top one being slightly bigger than the bottom one (although I
  can't imagine why).  The new jack has a beautiful thick coat of black
enamel
  on it.  It wouldn't fit through the bottom hole.  Was close, but no go.
Not
  only that, it appeared that the factory installed the safety chain (s) by
  wrapping it around the original jack post from the back, and welding 3 of
  the links to the underside of the web adjacent to the hole that was too
  small.  Now this SHOULD have been a really small job:  3 bolts and tap into
  the wire at the breakaway switch (yeah, I changed my mind).

  So it was either remove the paint from the jack or make the hole (and
  adjacent chain links) a silly-millimeter bigger.  I chose the latter.  I
ran
  my rechargeable Dremel tool til it ran out of juice.  I had my generator in
  the back of the truck and the CASE for the 120V Dremel, but no tool.  Game
  over.

  The next day I went back and took my freshly recharged Dremel and went to
  it.  This time I had the other Dremel with me and I was ready for as long
as
  it took to grind out that bugger.  But before the first Dremel pooped out I
  managed to get the hole widened out enough for the jack to drop in.  But
not
  without having to twist it a little.  I can't wait to try to get it out
  someday.  Oh well...it's never easy.  Works great.  Wiring it up was a
snap.

  One other thing: I made a nifty cover out of a leftover hunk of Sunbrella
  Silver.  Pulls over the jack head and has a nylon strap and buckle to
secure
  it around the jack shaft.  Looks really nice I think.  Would be delighted
to
  send anyone a picture that wants to see what it looks like offline.

  Later,

  GQ '67 Safari
  4082 in CA

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 12:56:51 -0700
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Quick re-intro, before the questions!

Hi!

I mostly lurk and learn here, as my hubby and I are very new to camping 
with a R.V. in general. Learning rapidly! Amazing how that happens when you 
don't know anything! My idea of camping is loading up the horses and going 
out on a pack trip. The more civilized version is taking a bit of getting 
use to.

We had our 67 Safari for over a year, before we even brought it home. After 
a very quick run-through on the basics, we hitched up and went camping in 
it this spring. The stove worked, the toilet worked, and the water tank had 
a huge hole in it. Drains worked. Oh, and fridge worked, sort of.

We took the tin can camping again up to Barkerville (very spur of the 
moment. Hubby came home from work mad, and said let's go camping tomorrow) 
Great trip, and really recommend going there. Discovered that we have a 
rather large leak in the roof. Interesting waking up to a river going past 
your head...

We live a hour and a half north of Kamloops, BC and have two dogs, one cat, 
one kitten, two rabbits, two tweety birds, and I won't go into how many horses!

Sharon, in BC 

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 13:04:38 -0700
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 67 safari furnace

Yesterday, we had a minor miracle of sparking up the furnace, and having 
hot air come out of the ducts! Very thrilling. When we bought this trailer, 
we had no idea if anything worked in it at all. Coming up roses, so far.

But, we need a piece for the furnace, and I think that it might be a bit of 
a challenge. We need the piece that goes from the end of the thermocouple 
to the gas line ect. I don't know how better to explain it. It looks like 
cast aluminium, almost. It works for now, but it is falling apart. If 
needed, I can haul the furnace out again and take a picture of it.

Sharon, in BC, where the stove works, the fridge works, hubby fixed the 
hole in the water tank, and all we have to do now is fix some broken 
waterlines, put the tank back in, put in a new water pump, and then check 
the hotwater tank out. Pretty good for a *not sure what works* trailer. Oh, 
and hubby is re-doing some electrical. All the overhead light fixtures are 
toast, but there is power to them 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 16:51:06 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace

Sharon,

I'm not sure what brand of furnace is in your trailer, but I was amazed to 
find parts to my old Subruban still available (by special order) from a 
local RV parts place. You might want to stop by one and see...

That being said, be aware that old furnaces can mean Carbon Monoxide and/or 
LP gas leaks, so I highly recommend you get a monitor for both installed...

Dave


At 04:04 PM 9/8/2004, you wrote:
>Yesterday, we had a minor miracle of sparking up the furnace, and having 
>hot air come out of the ducts! Very thrilling. When we bought this 
>trailer, we had no idea if anything worked in it at all. Coming up roses, 
>so far.
>
>But, we need a piece for the furnace, and I think that it might be a bit 
>of a challenge. We need the piece that goes from the end of the 
>thermocouple to the gas line ect. I don't know how better to explain it. 
>It looks like cast aluminium, almost. It works for now, but it is falling 
>apart. If needed, I can haul the furnace out again and take a picture of it.
>
>Sharon, in BC, where the stove works, the fridge works, hubby fixed the 
>hole in the water tank, and all we have to do now is fix some broken 
>waterlines, put the tank back in, put in a new water pump, and then check 
>the hotwater tank out. Pretty good for a *not sure what works* trailer. 
>Oh, and hubby is re-doing some electrical. All the overhead light fixtures 
>are toast, but there is power to them
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>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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>

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 17:01:39 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace

Sharon,

Not sure about your part, but do make sure you have a carbon monoxide
detector. A furnance of that age could have pin holes in the burner walls
which would allow gas to enter the trailer. If that happens when you are
a sleep, you don't wake up!

Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
66 Overlander
66 Safari
70 Safari

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Chaytor" <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 3:04 PM
Subject: [VAL] 67 safari furnace


> Yesterday, we had a minor miracle of sparking up the furnace, and having
> hot air come out of the ducts! Very thrilling. When we bought this
trailer,
> we had no idea if anything worked in it at all. Coming up roses, so far.
>
> But, we need a piece for the furnace, and I think that it might be a bit
of
> a challenge. We need the piece that goes from the end of the thermocouple
> to the gas line ect. I don't know how better to explain it. It looks like
> cast aluminium, almost. It works for now, but it is falling apart. If
> needed, I can haul the furnace out again and take a picture of it.
>
> Sharon, in BC, where the stove works, the fridge works, hubby fixed the
> hole in the water tank, and all we have to do now is fix some broken
> waterlines, put the tank back in, put in a new water pump, and then check
> the hotwater tank out. Pretty good for a *not sure what works* trailer.
Oh,
> and hubby is re-doing some electrical. All the overhead light fixtures are
> toast, but there is power to them
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 19:01:51 -0400
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Rearend Raising

Hi Jeff,

I had the same problem with my 54 Flying Cloud. I took it to the 
Airstream Plant and they first flipped the axle, putting the springs 
above the axle. This takes the trailer to the clouds, or about 8" 
higher than it was! Way too high, looked silly. They then lowered it by 
shortening the shackles. This brought it to about 4" higher than 
originally. I can take digital photo's of it if you'd like. No more 
dragging her a-- up the driveway!!!


Patti
Long Island, NY
1954 Flying Cloud
02 2500 Suburban
WBCCI # 3321
Washington DC Unit
Denver Unit Associate
VAC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 16:11:24 -0700
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace

what a fluff-head I am...the furnace is a suburban NT-22A

A monoxide monitor is on the agenda, right now there are so many airleaks 
in the trailer, that we don't really worry about it. The seals are gone 
around all of the windows, and the door, and the access panels, the big 
opaque vent, and said vent also has a crack in it. Any idea where I can get 
one of those, preferably in Canada?

Sharon, in BC 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 18:17:53 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace

Sharon, in BC asked:

>Any idea where I can get one of those, preferably in Canada?

Hello Sharon, here's a long list of suppliers, one of whom might meet your
needs:  http://vintageairstream.com/rr_topics_suppliers.html



Hope that helps,

Mark in Modesto, CA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 18:42:34 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <rhightower@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] A/S for sale

Thought I'd list this here, as well on the VAC classifieds:

1976 31 Sovereign International model, rear bath, twin beds, front double 
bed. It has a small table on the curb side, and the larger dining table on 
the street side. Microwave, 4-burner stove/oven and large refrigerator, A/C, 
ZipDee awning on curb side. Tires are good.

All appliances work, the Univolt has been replaced with an Intellipower & 
Charge Wizard. Two 80 watt solar panels, a 2000 Watt inverter/charger and 
two AGM batteries, satellite antenna, satellite finder, tinted rock guard on 
front.

We had Oasis RV replace the shocks recently and repair the frame droop. The 
unit has a 2-year old jack, and two 40 pound Worthington propane tanks with 
OPD valves.

The exterior is in good condition, with one dent on the street side front 
banana wrap. All lights work, and the interior is in good condition, 
including the tambour. There are new curtains throughout.

Asking $7500, or $9000 with a Hensley hitch. If interested, please respond 
off list. I can provide pictures of the interior now, exterior later (the 
unit is in storage).

We prefer our 'new' '72 Overlander, so are selling the larger unit.

Thanks,
Bob Hightower
WBCCI 11365
VAC 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 19:52:31 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 67 safari furnace

I've had doses of CO on three occasions. I don't want any more. The 
second time was when I was overnighting in my 1974 Monitor running the 
furnace in November (in Iowa), and before I did that overnight with the 
furnace running, I put in a new CO monitor and a new smoke detector. 
When the CO detector woke me up about 3 AM from a sound sleep, I 
was so groggy from the CO that driving home (about 8 miles) it was a 
good thing all the roads were two lane or wider and without traffic 
because it was all I could do to keep the truck straddling the center 
line...

CO is mean because it binds to the blood components that are 
supposed to carry oxygen in preference to oxygen so it doesn't take 
much to have a severe effect. I don't think that particular CO detector 
was sensitive enough for good safety and leaky window seals aren't 
enough ventilation in my book to make a BAD furnace safe.

If I was to fire up an old propane furnace without replacing the heat 
exchanger, I'd consider getting the local fire department to bring out a 
CO detector that is a lot more sensitive to check it for safety. That's 
exactly what they would have to do if you were found inside and ill, so 
they often are willing to check ahead of the emergency call.

CO can start out with subtle hints, like a metallic taste in the mouth and 
a pounding headache. I don't want to find out how it is after that.

Home centers and hardware stores generally carry smoke and CO 
detectors, though many of theirs are not rated for mobile home or RV 
service and it might be necessary to get RV rated sensors from an RV 
store. The 2001 catalog at hand has a SAFE-T-ALERT model 60-541 
(surface mount) for about $50 US. Rated for RV service. With memory so 
after you get out of the hospital it can still show how much CO was 
there. Requires 12 volts. Then there's the ATwood Mode. 37791.. runs on 
three AA batteries for $54, and the LECO model 3350 that requires 12 
volts for $62.

Don't trust an old furnace. Its suicide and CO is a painful way to go.

And for fire, could you get out without going past the furnace if it had 
ignited the cabinet about it? Most vintage RVs don't have a separate 
exit for the back bedroom. You have to get past the fire at the furnace 
to get out or be burned in the back bedroom. Not at all a pleasant 
prospect.

Do you really believe that the vents are still connected with tin the 
thickness of a tin can 40 years after the initial installation, all that time to 
rust?

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V2 #1
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