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VAL Digest V1 #96



VAL Digest          Sunday, December 14 2003          Volume 01 : Number 096




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] shopping for a spare tire/wheel
[VAL] Re: leaky airstreams
[VAL] Bikes and Curtain glides
Re: [VAL] Bikes and Curtain glides
Re: [VAL]  Saggin' Wagon
[VAL] aluminum source
Re: [VAL] We're Home! (Long)
Re: [VAL] shower heads
Re: [VAL] Shower parts
[VAL] Parts help

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Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 23:29:41 -0800
From: "Richard        McFarland" <estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] shopping for a spare tire/wheel

It's that time of year when we think about service and new projects and
new/old trailers.

I thought I'd mention this for anyone who might be in the market to obtain a
new spare tire/wheel for their trailer.

We read a great deal about tire brands and tire clearance (in the wheel
well) on Airstreams.

Here's what happened when I went to purchase a spare tire for my new tandem
axle aluminum car hauling trailer some years ago.

It came with nice chrome rims and radials - but no spare - so I took it to a
local tire shop and asked for a new tire and wheel for the trailer.  I got a
new radial tire and a nice wheel.

****Note**** I never thought to "try" the spare as the tire size was correct
and the trailer had ample room under the fenders (and the fenders are
removeable) and the tire shop apparently did not think about it either...

A few years later I had my first flat - I was at my shop and the trailer was
not loaded.  I changed the flat and put on the new and unused spare and took
off on a trip.  The road in front of my shop is very agressive/rough
asphalt.  I'd not gotten much more than a block from my shop when I checked
my mirrors and noticed that one of the tires was smoking....

The wheel offset of the new spare was incorrect for my trailer....so the new
tire was rubbing against the smooth inner fender...and it had locked up due
to the friction on the sidewall against the inner fender...and the tire
tread was ground off to the cords due to the rough asphalt....flat spotted
and smoking.  If I'd had a load on the trailer I probably would not have
made it even a block from my shop as the tire would have spread out a little
more from the load and locked up against the inner fender even faster or at
least I might have noticed the drag.

The wheel offset was incorrect - but not so much that the tire did not go
on...in fact it had gone on flush against the drum (just...) or obviously
I'd have noticed the problem...so I did not notice the problem when I
changed the tire.

Moral:  check everything...!

Safe Travels.  RL

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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 08:54:50 -0600
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: leaky airstreams

RJ wrote:

You'll find that skin panle seams almost never leak, as the whole
overlap between the two skins is filled with a wide band of sealant.
Almost always it will be "extra holes" in the field of the skin panels
as Daisy has noted: A/C mount holes, awning supports and rails,
antennas, lights, owner "add-ons", screws.  Many window styles will leak
too, and they can be found with the two person water hose method.

How about rivets? Several on the roof area are somewhat indented, 
whereby it seems as though water has puddled in the depressions. Any 
chance these could leak?

I'm in Wisconsin, and probably can't spray water at the windows 'til 
April (it's 0 out this a.m...). Is there a potential for a window frame 
leak in my 1979 31' Int'l? Not around the perimeter, but through the 
frame itself.

Thanks a bunch,

Chris

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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 10:59:15 -0800
From: "Arlen & Shirley" <globetrotter64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Bikes and Curtain glides

I want to add some info on a source for Airstream Curtain Glides.
Airstream, in its wisdom, has somehow never seen fit to sell parts directly
from their factory.  However, they have for some time had a website that
sells trinkets and books and such.  This site now is now offering some
miscellaneous commonly needed parts - including curtain glides that fit some
years of trailers.  Airstream changes so many things from year to year (and
even within a year) that I don't know if these are the curtain glides that
you need or not.   I know the style offered were used in some trailers in
the mid 70's and I think they are the same as current production.  I do know
that these are NOT the glides that were used in my 1964 trailer.

http://airstream.com/shop/parts_interior.html

To further debunk the idea that putting a bike rack on the back of an
Airstream is not accepted factory practice, here is a picture of a bike rack
from the 1979 Wally Byam Stores catalog (and also shown in the 1977
catalog). This is a clever rear bumper bike rack which swings out of the way
(and also down) to access the items stored in the bumper.  (I still can't
say if a bumper mounted bike rack is a good idea though.  Although most
bicycles usually do not weigh very much , they sure get filthy back there
when traveling even a short distance on a dirt road.)
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/bike1.jpg

(The picture on the above link might take awhile to load.  I left it large
enough to see the details)

Arlen and Shirley
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/

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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 13:26:35 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bikes and Curtain glides

"To further debunk the idea that putting a bike rack on the back of an
Airstream is not accepted factory practice, here is a picture of a bike rack
from the 1979 Wally Byam Stores catalog (and also shown in the 1977
catalog). This is a clever rear bumper bike rack which swings out of the way
(and also down) to access the items stored in the bumper.  (I still can't
say if a bumper mounted bike rack is a good idea though.  Although most
bicycles usually do not weigh very much , they sure get filthy back there
when traveling even a short distance on a dirt road.)
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/bike1.jpg "

That's exactly the rack that I have for my '75 Sovereign. It bolts to the
frame rails, and puts no weight on the shell or bumper at all.

Roger

Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ

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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 14:43:51 -0700
From: Rob Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL]  Saggin' Wagon

Roger Hightower wrote:

>That's exactly the rack that I have for my '75 Sovereign. It bolts to the
>frame rails, and puts no weight on the shell or bumper at all.
>

Roger,

The bike rack you referenced was a factory option and as they say: 'if 
it's good enough for them it's good enough for me'. But I think it's 
good enough because the monocoque construction has enough reserve load 
carrying capacity, not just because it's bolted to the frame. 

In architecture the 'beam' (frame in this case) is sized to handle both 
'dead' and 'live' or dynamic loads, with a margin of safety over that.  
I think that is the case here also.  If the frame were at it's max 
design load and then the bike rack was bolted to it, the frame would 
deflect beyond acceptable limits either causing frame separation or 
'rear-end sag' we so often hear about.  One example would be Bob & 
Bertie's trailer before stiffeners. The rear bath sat on the flooring 
which in turn loaded the frame, which caused it to 'over-deflect'.  The 
ultimate load carrying ability before separation occurs probably varies 
with size of frame members, cantilever distance from the rear-most axle 
and how much excess capacity was designed into each trailer model.

So... I don't totally agree with your logic, but it's probably just fine 
nonetheless. The factory must have thought so also.

Rob Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
WBCCI #1824, VAC

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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 16:58:03 -0500
From: "Deborah Bede" <stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] aluminum source

Hello everyone:

I just thought I would share a great source for aluminum sheet that I found,
since I know several people have had trouble finding it.  Yarde Metals has
locations in New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Ohio, Pennsylvania and New
Hampshire and they stock 2024 T3 in both mill and alclad finishes, in a
number of thicknesses and sheet sizes.  But best of all they deliver, and if
you're in their delivery area it's free (although I'm not positive if this
applies to residential addresses, I'm having mine delivered to a business).
They have a web site, www.yarde.com, which has contact information, are very
helpful on the phone, and take credit cards.

Have fun!

Deborah

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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 15:37:50 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] We're Home! (Long)

The number on the side plaque is 345.
Jo Ann

On 12, Dec 2003, at 8:35 AM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> That's the most noticeable difference. Could be a '56 model first sold 
> &
> registered in 1957.  What's the serial number?
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu [mailto:jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu]
>> Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 6:34 PM
>> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] We're Home! (Long)
>>
>
>>    Work continues on the Bubble, which I'm starting to think
>> may not be
>> a '57 at all but maybe a '56. Is the number of aluminum panels, front
>> and rear, the main criteria? Ours has the funny shaped "corner-stone"
>> section.
>> Jo Ann
>
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> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 15:44:25 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] shower heads

Thanks Jim - actually I'm building from scratch, not replacing as my 
trailer did not have a shower ever.
On 12, Dec 2003, at 12:43 PM, Jim Greene wrote:

> Joan, I don't know what the shower water control valve in a 57 Bubble 
> looks
> like but I replaced the control in my 68 Tradewind ....

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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 15:45:34 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Shower parts

Wow. Now that's extremely kind of you RJD - looks like a very fine 
solution.
Jo Ann
On 12, Dec 2003, at 1:13 PM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> Here's the parts needed if you use the conventional behind the wall
> valves of the 1950's.  If you use an all-in-one set of valves in the
> shower proper, then delete the wall elbow.
>
> http://www.vandykes.com/product/02000659/ - shower head
>
> http://www.vandykes.com/product/02000662/ - hose
> http://www.vandykes.com/product/02000648/ - swivel connector (hose to
> handle)
> http://www.vandykes.com/product/02000645/ - wall mount/swivel
> http://www.vandykes.com/product/02000639/ - wall elbow, used with
> behind-wall valves
>
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ
>
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> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 20:56:33 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Parts help

    All,

    There appears to be some sort of missing surround piece that decorates
the edges of the vertical slots that the window actuating arms move in.  On
my Caravel there is a definite discoloration in the vinyl clad inner skin
that's about 1/2" wide all the way around all the slots.  If there was
something there, it's been systematically removed from every slot.

    Does anyone know if in fact there should be something there and if I can
get identical replacement parts somewhere?

    Thanks,

    Glyn
    1969 Caravel, #508
    Santa Monica CA

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End of VAL Digest V1 #96
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