The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #93
VAL Digest Thursday, December 11 2003 Volume 01 : Number 093
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
[VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
Re: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #92
Re: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
Re: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #92
[VAL] Re: PEX tubing
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #92
Re: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
[VAL] Bike Racks
Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
[VAL] Re: Pex plumbing and "Flair-it" fittings
Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
Re: [VAL] Re: Pex plumbing and "Flair-it" fittings
Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Re: [VAL]leaky Airstreams
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 23:23:08 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Hi Ed,
If I were to venture a reasonable guestimate, I would say 16' is the longest
run. There are only two hot water outlets, one at the galley sink and the
other in the shower/tub combo. I chose not to put in a bathroom cabinet
and/or sink - takes up too much valuable room.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT
> Hello Brad,
> How far is the water heater to the outlet in your trailer? I have an 18
> footer and wondering if I need to wrap.
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Brad Norgaard
> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 9:58 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
>
>
> Hi Ed and Jim,
> When redoing my '59 Trade Wind several years ago, I chose to use PEX. It
> is somewhat flexible while being very strong. It is re-enforced poly
> tubing. It cuts easily and uses quick connect elbows, T's and valves.
> I've not experienced any problems with it since installing it. When
> installing, I wrapped a slotted insulation tube everywhere aft of the
> water heater on the hot side. This keeps the water extremely hot and at
> the rear, I can tell the hot from the cold water line quite easily. Good
> luck in whatever your decision.
>
> Brad Norgaard
> Phoenix
> '59 Trade Wind Twin
> VAC #2699, TCT
>
>
>
>> Oh what timing!
>> I am in the process of determining what to use on my 59 restoration
>> project, PEX, copper, PVC or anything else someone might have had good
>
>> luck with. I'm lucky as I have a gutted trailer (slowly going back
>> together) and I think I have some flexibility with what is used. Are
>> there any pluses or minuses that we should consider? To be honest I
>> have never seen PEX, or maybe I have and never realized it. Ed
>> WBCCI/VAC 4425
>> 68 Sovereign (all copper)
>> 59 Traveler (TBD)
>>
>>
>>
>> I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
>> seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
>> store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
>> connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use would
>
>> be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
>> than cost.
>>
>> I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper
>> around the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have
>> read that it is a little more tolerant to freezing.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>> Jim
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 08:14:50 -0600
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
Hello-
I'm new to the list. Purchased a 1979 31' International sovereign a few
months ago. We are in the process of revamping the interior in
preparation for full timing beginning next spring for a year with our
two young boys. I have admired Airstream trailers since my dad, also a
great admirer, pointed one out to me while we were on a road trip in
the early '70's.
I have a question: I have been working on eliminating some leaks which
became apparent as soon as we removed the flooring and beds. I went at
any suspect areas with a vengeance, concentrating on two areas: the
very rear, where the toolbox mounts to the frame members (there's a
flat piece of flat flashing that was uncaulked and appeared to be a
culprit), and the area just ahead of the door. I have since expanded my
hunt to the whole trailer, as my progressive caulk coverage hasn't
stopped the leaks.
While I've gone through several tubes of Vulkem, and one of a clear
glass sealant (name escapes me right now), I have yet to stop the
leaks. I have caulked:
the flashing penetration at the toolbox, as well as the frame
penetrations;
around each window frame, toe beading the bottom and sides and heavily
on the top;
the trim strip where the belly pan meets the skin (at the floor line);
the trip strip mid way up the sides (just in case..);
every roof penetration except the micro vent: A/C, air vents,
plumbing vents, antenna, bath vents;
the door perimeter;
I have toe beaded with clear any glass that appeared suspect;
around the water heater, furnace, & battery openings;
any seams that looked suspect.
My A/S has awnings on three sides. I can't imagine the mounting strips
for these as being suspect..?
Any chance there's a leak occurring between the window frame and sash,
which could make its way between the skins?
I'm running out of options. Am considering suspending the trailer with
a crane over a huge vat of molten caulk and lowering away..
Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks- I certainly appreciate
this forum!
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 08:36:47 -0600
From: DL <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
Something bothers me... "The very rear, where the toolbox mounts to the
frame members."
I think that is some kind of Add On. And if so it is too much weight
on the back end.
You don't even want to add a bike rack to the rear. It will pull the
bumper down from
the skin. The skin is part of the frame on an Airstream.
73
Dean L W5GXL
On Dec 10, 2003, at 8:14 AM, Chris Koehn wrote:
> Hello-
>
> I'm new to the list. Purchased a 1979 31' International sovereign a
> few months ago.
>
> I have a question: I have been working on eliminating some leaks which
> became apparent as soon as we removed the flooring and beds. I went at
> any suspect areas with a vengeance, concentrating on two areas: the
> very rear, where the toolbox mounts to the frame members (there's a
> flat piece of flat flashing that was uncaulked and appeared to be a
> culprit),
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 09:37:08 -0500
From: "Pete Gutillo" <pete_gutillo@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #92
Tom,
Be careful using pex, the tool used is expensive and large, once you put the
trailer back together it's very difficult getting that tool in small places.
Also some of the fittings were banned do to leaking problem, they remade the
fittings but some retail outlets still have the old fittings. I have a 65
caravel that came with pex but I Personally don't like it.
Pete
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "VAL Digest" <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 1:00 AM
Subject: VAL Digest V1 #92
>
> VAL Digest Wednesday, December 10 2003 Volume 01 : Number
092
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> Topics in Today's Digest:
>
> Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
> RE: [VAL] PEX plumbing
> RE: [VAL] Re:Black water tank maintence.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 07:02:47 -0500
> From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
>
> Ed, et. al.,
>
> PEX stands for PolyEthylene, X(cross)linked. Great stuff if you don't
> mind the price of the fittings, which are really expensive compared to
> PVC and Cu. Check out the color coded tubing and the manabloc
> distribution setup at:
>
> http://www.manabloc.com
>
> Once I start on the rescue projects in NM I plan to use that system for
> all my trailers. Also the studio/darkroom/summer kitchen/workshops in
> what now is the stock shed. (Maybe even the house; can you say,
> "Believer"?)
>
> LOL
>
> Matt
>
> Edward Emerick wrote:
> > Oh what timing!
> > I am in the process of determining what to use on my 59 restoration
> > project, PEX, copper, PVC or anything else someone might have had good
> > luck with. I'm lucky as I have a gutted trailer (slowly going back
> > together) and I think I have some flexibility with what is used. Are
> > there any pluses or minuses that we should consider? To be honest I have
> > never seen PEX, or maybe I have and never realized it.
> > Ed
> > WBCCI/VAC 4425
> > 68 Sovereign (all copper)
> > 59 Traveler (TBD)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cooper
> > Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 11:37 AM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] PEX plumbing
> >
> >
> > I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
> > seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
> > store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
> > connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use would
> > be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
> > than cost.
> >
> > I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper around
> > the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have read that it
> > is a little more tolerant to freezing.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> > Jim
> >
> > jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 20:37:24 -0500
> From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] PEX plumbing
>
> Hello Brad,
> How far is the water heater to the outlet in your trailer? I have an 18
> footer and wondering if I need to wrap.
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Brad Norgaard
> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 9:58 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
>
>
> Hi Ed and Jim,
> When redoing my '59 Trade Wind several years ago, I chose to use PEX. It
> is somewhat flexible while being very strong. It is re-enforced poly
> tubing. It cuts easily and uses quick connect elbows, T's and valves.
> I've not experienced any problems with it since installing it. When
> installing, I wrapped a slotted insulation tube everywhere aft of the
> water heater on the hot side. This keeps the water extremely hot and at
> the rear, I can tell the hot from the cold water line quite easily. Good
> luck in whatever your decision.
>
> Brad Norgaard
> Phoenix
> '59 Trade Wind Twin
> VAC #2699, TCT
>
>
>
> > Oh what timing!
> > I am in the process of determining what to use on my 59 restoration
> > project, PEX, copper, PVC or anything else someone might have had good
>
> > luck with. I'm lucky as I have a gutted trailer (slowly going back
> > together) and I think I have some flexibility with what is used. Are
> > there any pluses or minuses that we should consider? To be honest I
> > have never seen PEX, or maybe I have and never realized it. Ed
> > WBCCI/VAC 4425
> > 68 Sovereign (all copper)
> > 59 Traveler (TBD)
> >
> >
> >
> > I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
> > seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
> > store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
> > connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use would
>
> > be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
> > than cost.
> >
> > I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper
> > around the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have
> > read that it is a little more tolerant to freezing.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> > Jim
>
> - -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 21:40:21 -0500
> From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Re:Black water tank maintence.
>
> Hello All,
> I think the following site might be of some help with this topic:
> PoopReport.com
> Good Luck
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign (man the things in that tank)
> 59 Traveler (What tank? Just a hole in the floor)
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Gerald N.
> Johnson, electrical engineer
> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 10:45 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:Black water tank maintence.
>
>
> I've found that the blue stuff in an open bucket I've used in my
> outhouse has a great benefit on the odor wafting out to meet me when I
> open the door. Just takes a splash per use. Not so much that the odor of
> the blue stuff gets strong.
>
> That black water tank needs to be anchored well, without room for being
> jostled, else it will break the flange connection again. The toilet is
> bolted to it and to the floor of the shower. Looseness in the tank and
> toilet mounts probably is what broke up the flange to begin with.
>
> Gerald J.
> - --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> - -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of VAL Digest V1 #92
> ************************
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 07:56:20 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
I think you are talking about the storage trunk for the sewer hose and
electrical cord, not a tool box. That trunk is factory installed.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "DL" <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
> Something bothers me... "The very rear, where the toolbox mounts to the
> frame members."
> I think that is some kind of Add On. And if so it is too much weight
> on the back end.
> You don't even want to add a bike rack to the rear. It will pull the
> bumper down from
> the skin. The skin is part of the frame on an Airstream.
>
> 73
> Dean L W5GXL
> On Dec 10, 2003, at 8:14 AM, Chris Koehn wrote:
>
> > Hello-
> >
> > I'm new to the list. Purchased a 1979 31' International sovereign a
> > few months ago.
> >
> > I have a question: I have been working on eliminating some leaks which
> > became apparent as soon as we removed the flooring and beds. I went at
> > any suspect areas with a vengeance, concentrating on two areas: the
> > very rear, where the toolbox mounts to the frame members (there's a
> > flat piece of flat flashing that was uncaulked and appeared to be a
> > culprit),
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 11:04:02 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
Start at the top with vulkem in aluminum color and cut to a thin bead
and apply to every seam. Water travels along the inside quite well and
hides the source of the leak. Its far easier to caulk every seam than to
trace each leak. Some would use alumiseal, made for aluminum gutter
sealing as it wicks into the gaps nicely.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 12:16:42 EST
From: KELLEYMT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #92
Good morning all! We are the process of putting down new flooring in our 68
Safari. After taking up the awful vinyl sheet flooring that quaintly curled at
every edge, we discovered a few areas along the front and curb side where the
wood underlayment was rotted.
Our initial thought was that the water tank which sits under the front couch
must have a slow leak. We removed it and tested it over several days and that
is not our problem (thankfully!).
We assumed the problem at curbside was due to a bad seal on the door,
although the problem was under the window adjacent to the door, rather than directly
at the door. We've seen this same water problem near the door in many others
we've looked at, so it must be a fairly common problem.
We cut out, replaced and waterproofed these areas of the plywood
underlayment, and much to our pleasure, the musty smell we had attributed to the camper
being 30+ years old and mostly original, appears to be gone!
However, we still have the problem of the leak. Since the leaking appears to
be isolated to the front and curb side (and our other conclusions thus far
have failed us), we are now inclined to conclude that the exterior "molding"
piece that covers that seam at about floor level must be allowing in water (it
must not be sealed.)
Just wondering if anyone out there has faced similar issues and if any
attempts to resolve have been successful. We store our camper outdoors (protected by
trees, but still exposed)
Many thanks, and Happy Holidays!!
Molly Kelley
'68 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 10:14:37 -0800 (PST)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: PEX tubing
I replumbed all the supply lines on my 68 with PEX.
So far, I am happy with it. I used the crimp
fittings. They are not as forgiving of mistakes (you
have to cut them out). Their variable cost is much
less expensive than the tubing-style fittings (the
compression fittings you tighten with a wrench). Of
course, you have the fixed cost for the crimp tool,
which is about $100. Get the short-handled one
because it is easier to use in tight spaces. If you
choose to use the tubing/compression fittings, read
the fine print. The Quest brand says they are not for
use behind closed walls! Who knows why. Maybe
they're prone to leaking over time.
I chose to plumb my lines with red and blue PEX, so it
is really easy to tell hot from cold...
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
http://photos.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 12:21:17 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #92
Seams leak, all the way to the roof. Windows and doors leak at the
gaskets and around the frames. Seam leaks run down the insides of the
walls to the floor.
Leaking at the window hinges are particularly hard to stop. My dad gave
up and put a little aluminum awning over what is my now '68 Caravel. You
can see them on my web page at http://homepages.isunet.net/geraldj
The original galvanized tank WILL leak, its just a question of when. And
when filled with cool water in a humid climate it will have condensation
(just like an uninsulated toilet flush tank) to add moisture to rotting
a floor. An insulation coating over that tank should slow that
condensation (and the warming of the water). I don't think it will take
much of an insulation layer, but I will be working on that soon as I'm
working on converting a tin building to a house and condensation on the
underside of the roof tin and inside of the wall tin is a concern.
Some water will get in through the refrigerator air inlet, more through
wear spots in the wheel wells.
A thin bead of vulkem or alumiseal at all laps of the exterior should
dry up the interior, if the windows don't leak at the hinges and the
window and door gaskets are good. Don't neglect the light figure
openings, nor the radio and TV antenna penetrations.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 17:22:19 -0500
From: <lindner.1@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] hello, and vexing leaks
12/10/2003 2:14:50 AM, Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
>my progressive caulk coverage hasn't
>stopped the leaks.
This can be one of the most frustrating aspects of aluminitis. Several repair shops -- including a/s central at Jackson
Center -- have devices which can pressurize the interior of your coach and use the old soapsuds routine to indicate the
leaks. Worked for me on a stubborn leak along rib #1.
-- Lew #4239
'72 Safari
Custom Craft Megatow
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 19:46:51 -0500
From: "nickruthwarren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Bike Racks
I just read in one of these e-mails that the back bumper is not the place
for a bike rack on an Airstream. I really want to take bikes along on our
trips any place that is good to mount a bike rack on the Airstream?
Ruth Warren & the Tin Can Clan
1961 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 19:51:21 EST
From: JAuman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
I have a 75, 25' Airstream. There was a company that made a bike rack for the
rear bumper of an Airstream. I don't know if they were made by Airstream or
another company. They were made to bolt onto the frame of the trailer and you
could swing them out to get into the rear compartment. I have one on the back
of my trailer and I carry two bikes. I have had no trouble with the bike rack.
I did not put it on the rear of a 31' trailer I had a few years ago.
JAuman2346
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 18:18:53 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
My 31' Sovereign had one of those bike racks, bolted right to the frame. I
don't know how long the PO had it on there, but there is no evidence of
separation.
I think that any rack that bolts to the frame and not the bumper would be
OK.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 20:20:58 EST
From: RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Pex plumbing and "Flair-it" fittings
Hello,
Another call to Jr. at Sonrise Rv in Escondido, Ca reveals that he and his
entire Rv repair staff prefer the Pex (formerly Quest) system over the CPVC or
other plumbing repair systems. He says that it's somewhat flexible, has quality
fittings that can be taken apart later so you don't have to cut and splice
your plumbing like you have to when you fix your irrigation plumbing. For those
who want to you can use blue for the cold loops and red for the hot lines. He
says furthur that they have collectively 80 years experience and this is the
best system. He didn't mention if it holds up under freeze conditions. I think
the full name for the stuff is: Vanex Cross-linked Polyethylene (PEX). I don't
know if Home Depot carries it but we'll find out soon.
We plan to place the pump behind the range where there is considerable wasted
space. That should eliminate one line/strand of piping going back to the
back. Our H2O tank is in the front under the couch. We think the factory wanted
the original very noisy pump to be in the back to not disturb people in the
front. The new pump is fairly quiet. Will it get cooked behind the range? How hot
will it get back there? Ours is a new Atwood range that is several inches
shorter than the original. Somewhere just aft of the pump we hope to attach the
"City" water connection. That would be outside the rig near the galley area.
Anyone see any problems with that concept? This will allow a cleaner neater rear
compartment, too. Thanks for all the help, Stuart Resor.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 21:16:48 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
How about a rack that mounts on the roof of the tow vehicle?
If you do try the rear of the trailer, please be sure that the bikes do not
hang down below the bumper. One driveway with an incline could take them
off!
Scott
'60 Overlander
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "nickruthwarren"
> I just read in one of these e-mails that the back bumper is not the place
> for a bike rack on an Airstream. I really want to take bikes along on our
> trips any place that is good to mount a bike rack on the Airstream?
>
> Ruth Warren & the Tin Can Clan
> 1961 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 19:25:37 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
I would not mount anything on the back bumper of an Airstream. Its basic
physics as you run over rough roads, hit pot holes etc the amount of force
on the back bumper is multiplied exponently on the rear of the trailer -
doesn't matter if bolted to frame, bumper or what ever. Read previous
postings of things mounted on the rear bumper and causing frame seperation
- - even on trailers that are not commonly known for frame problems.
My question is why would you want mount them way back there - where the
bikes will get all the dirt and junk that comes off the car and the
trailer, when you could carry them on top of your vehicle where they stay
fairly clean. Buy a good Yakama or Thule rack - your bikes will be much
safer and happier.
Ken Johansen
5358
Bike rider for 40+ years.
At 07:51 PM 12/10/03 EST, you wrote:
>I have a 75, 25' Airstream. There was a company that made a bike rack for
the
>rear bumper of an Airstream. I don't know if they were made by Airstream or
>another company. They were made to bolt onto the frame of the trailer and
you
>could swing them out to get into the rear compartment. I have one on the
back
>of my trailer and I carry two bikes. I have had no trouble with the bike
rack.
>I did not put it on the rear of a 31' trailer I had a few years ago.
>JAuman2346
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 21:56:27 -0500
From: "nickruthwarren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
Not too keen on putting them up on the roof for the sheer logistics of
getting them up and down as necessary. I am interested in this rack that is
mounted on the frame rather than the bumper, any ideas what it's called and
where it comes from?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 22:11:15 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Pex plumbing and "Flair-it" fittings
Stuart
I replaced the water lines in my '73 with PEX and love it.
We have went to the mountains twice during the winter months and have had no
problems with the PEX.
I did not use the crimp style fittings, because I figured if I ever did have
problems with a fitting leaking I could just R2 fitting instead of having to
cut and splice etc...
Also, I priced the PEX at the Home Depot here, but bought mine from a plumbing
supply shop for about a third of the HD price.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: LSZLKBRNVWWCUFPEGAUTFJMVRESKPNKMBIPBARHDMNNSKVFVWRKJVZCM
Hello,
Another call to Jr. at Sonrise Rv in Escondido, Ca reveals that he and his
entire Rv repair staff prefer the Pex (formerly Quest) system over the CPVC
or
other plumbing repair systems. He says that it's somewhat flexible, has
quality
fittings that can be taken apart later so you don't have to cut and splice
your plumbing like you have to when you fix your irrigation plumbing. For
those
who want to you can use blue for the cold loops and red for the hot lines.
He
says furthur that they have collectively 80 years experience and this is the
best system. He didn't mention if it holds up under freeze conditions. I
think
the full name for the stuff is: Vanex Cross-linked Polyethylene (PEX). I
don't
know if Home Depot carries it but we'll find out soon.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 22:16:58 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bike Racks
Ruth
On the trips we do take bikes, I put them in the trailer.
I wrap them up in a moving type blanket and lay them on a non-skid mat like
what you use on the shelves in the cabinets. They've stayed in the same spot
for the whole trip and no problems with them moving/slidding around.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: TCXLYRWTQTIPWIGYOKSTTZRCLBDXRQBGJSNBOHMKHJYFMYXOEAIJ
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 7:46 PM
Subject: [VAL] Bike Racks
I just read in one of these e-mails that the back bumper is not the place
for a bike rack on an Airstream. I really want to take bikes along on our
trips any place that is good to mount a bike rack on the Airstream?
Ruth Warren & the Tin Can Clan
1961 Tradewind
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html<http://www.tompatter
son.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 22:25:54 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Brad
I also insulated the PEX lines when I replaced the water lines.
SMART move to. I also found that the heat stays in the hot water line better
than it did in the old
un-insulated copper. And the red and blue makes it easy to tell which line is
which if I ever do have to repair either one.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: ZAAFXISHJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUN
Hi Ed and Jim,
When installing, I
wrapped a slotted insulation tube everywhere aft of the water heater on the
hot side. This keeps the water extremely hot and at the rear, I can tell
the
hot from the cold water line quite easily. Good luck in whatever your
decision.
Brad Norgaard
> Oh what timing!
> I am in the process of determining what to use on my 59 restoration
> project, PEX, copper, PVC or anything else someone might have had good
> luck with. I'm lucky as I have a gutted trailer (slowly going back
> together) and I think I have some flexibility with what is used. Are
> there any pluses or minuses that we should consider? To be honest I have
> never seen PEX, or maybe I have and never realized it.
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign (all copper)
> 59 Traveler (TBD)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 23:07:15 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL]leaky Airstreams
Unless you are very lucky, all airstreams leak somewhere, sometime. So
will your house if the roof is old.
Before fixing anything, you should get 4 tubes of Vulkem and attack
every single seam on the trailer, and every place there is a hole cut in
the skin. The awings are notorious, the flexing losens the rivets and
bolts. You might think you could find the leak and just fix that. Sadly,
the cause of the leak is probably miles from the wet spot. And anyway,
if you have one or two, you will have four next year. Nobody tells you
about this part. It's true for other RV's as well.
check the archives for other people's techniques for calking.
I'll repeat mine if you want, but it's very messy.
Daisy ( about to be drowned in slush )
KELLEYMT@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Good morning all! We are the process of putting down new flooring in our 68
> Safari. After taking up the awful vinyl sheet flooring that quaintly curled at
> every edge, we discovered a few areas along the front and curb side where the
> wood underlayment was rotted.
>
> Our initial thought was that the water tank which sits under the front couch
> must have a slow leak. We removed it and tested it over several days and that
> is not our problem (thankfully!).
>
> We assumed the problem at curbside was due to a bad seal on the door,
> although the problem was under the window adjacent to the door, rather than directly
> at the door. We've seen this same water problem near the door in many others
> we've looked at, so it must be a fairly common problem.
>
> We cut out, replaced and waterproofed these areas of the plywood
> underlayment, and much to our pleasure, the musty smell we had attributed to the camper
> being 30+ years old and mostly original, appears to be gone!
>
> However, we still have the problem of the leak. Since the leaking appears to
> be isolated to the front and curb side (and our other conclusions thus far
> have failed us), we are now inclined to conclude that the exterior "molding"
> piece that covers that seam at about floor level must be allowing in water (it
> must not be sealed.)
>
> Just wondering if anyone out there has faced similar issues and if any
> attempts to resolve have been successful. We store our camper outdoors (protected by
> trees, but still exposed)
>
> Many thanks, and Happy Holidays!!
>
> Molly Kelley
> '68 Safari
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #93
************************
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|