The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #91
VAL Digest Tuesday, December 9 2003 Volume 01 : Number 091
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] black water tank stories
[VAL] Re:Black water tank maintence.
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #90
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #90
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #90
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #90 - composting toilets, rear tire mount
Re: [VAL] Re:Black water tank maintence.
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #90
[VAL] PEX plumbing
[VAL] Spare tire mount
[VAL] black tank
Re: [VAL] vent lifters
[VAL] TV - local and satellite
Re: [VAL] vent lifters
Re: [VAL] TV - local and satellite
RE: [VAL] vent lifters
Re: [VAL] vent lifters
RE: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #89 - Flush that tank!
Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #90
Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
RE: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #89 - Flush that tank!
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Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 01:28:58 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] black water tank stories
Of course not, right into the hole in the ground that the slinky is
stuck into !
Daisy
David R. Warner, Jr wrote:
> I truly hope that you mistyped and do not really just dump your "black tank
> right into the ground."!
>
> _DAVID WARNER
>
> At 12:51 PM 12/7/2003, you wrote:
>
>
>>Hi lexxy
>>
>>> I just have a blackwater tank and a drain for grey water so I assume I
>>>need one of those big rolling plastic tank things to collect the grey
>>>water or black water and dispose of it as required? I guess I just need
>>>to rinse it real clean after having to use it for black water
>>>transporting and use some chemicals to keep it fresh.
>>
>>If you are at a campground with a sewer hook up, you put the slinky
>>hose from the outlet of the trailer into the hole. The grey water just
>>goes down the hole. The black tank can go for nearly a week. Keep that
>>valve closed until the tank is quite full, and don't be stingy with the
>>water to flush. It needs to stay sloshy. You can either dump the black
>>tank right into the ground , followed by a good rush of water through the
>>hose or take the trailer to the dump station.
>>
>>If you are not at a sewer hook up, you need the blue meanie to hold the
>>grey water. I have a 5 gal that takes me a day to fill, then I can empty
>>it easily. The big ones are way heavy when full.
>>
>>I don't think most folks use the blue meanie for black water. They don't
>>drain all that well, and I would be afraid of it stinking while it's
>>riding in the truck.
>>
>>Daisy
>>
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>>
>>
>
>
> ===========================================================
>
> David R. Warner, Jr.
> 19507 485th Lane
> McGregor, Minnesota 55760
> Phone 218-426-3900
> Cell 218-838-4972
> David@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 01:33:33 EST
From: RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:Black water tank maintence.
Hello and thanks to all who offered their ideas and suggestions on the toilet
paper question. Yesterday we picked up our original blackwater tank from
Sonrise RV. We determined to not attach the new nozzle device to the side of the
tank to assist in cleaning out the tank at times of maintence (dumping). Since
it would need to be attached to the front side of the tank where it's odd
shaped we felt we couldn't make a strong enough connection to last throught the
years. Also the accompaning clear fiberglass tubing looks kind of mickey mouse
and would be a hassle to repair later once the tank is all reinstalled, etc.
Sonrise did a great job of applying a big fiberglass repair panel and once
that had cured they drilled a perfect hole for the new hard rubber flange. Randy
in their parts dept said that since our toilet and tank are directly lined up
it should be an easy matter to see in there and add water when needed or jet
spray it from above at times of maintence. We have some experience maintaining
our porta-pottie at our "Ranch" and the right amount of water and chemical
helps. Those chemicals may not be the greatest for the environment...are they?
We are about to reinstall the tank and then replace all the plumbing cut away
in the project. Escondido Metals provided several pieces of 16 ga. aluminum
precut to the exact sizes we'll need to re-cover the portion of the belly pan
cut away earlier. Will the tank get jostled out of place badly by unexpected
bumps? We expect to wedge it in real tight with shims etc. How critical is some
insulation there? The original tank had a thin layer under it. Thanks again
Stuart and Bonnie.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 06:53:21 EST
From: MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #90
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 07:28:51 EST
From: MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #90
Whoopsie, sorry about the previous blank message--working off a new (to me)
laptop (from work) and the controls are pretty sensitive!
Since the speak is about potties (and heck, that's a big reason why we
started thinking of using a trailer), a few things have occured to me. First, we
haven't taken our unit out yet, so we still are virgins to most of the dump
thing. We have a small Wallmart portapottie that we use for reenacting events
(you never know when the event portajohns will overfill). Dumping that tiny
thing is relatively easy (go to a bathroom, sit it on a toilet and release the
lever)--nothing stays in it long enough to get yucky. OTOH, can't stand the
scent of blue goo (is that what folks mean by "chemicals?")--though we found that
sealing it up in a canvas cooler cover not only hides its presence, it
somewhat seals off the scent of "blue." So, probably not going to go the chemical
route!
However, there is one kind of toilet folks may want to consider if they are
re-doing their black systems. We've encountered composting toilets that parks
maintain in remote, environmentally sensitive areas on backpack trips. We
were really impressed--they don't smell at all! Every time you do a #2, you
scoop in some enzyme activated sawdust. In the end, you do end up with composted
sludge, but according to the hut staff who've dealt with it, disposing it is
not nearly as gross as the ripe stuff! Has anyone tried this kind of set up?
On a totally different subject--was surveying the toaster this weekend(lovely
in the snow here in VA)... It came with a rear spare tire mount, apparently
installed when the unit was new. The previous owners detatched it to paint it,
but never replaced it. Now, after reading several online airstream
restoration sites, I notice many folks have said that anything mounted to the rear is a
big no-no. Now our unit is a 1961 Safari--and that's earlier than the units
that started to have the drooping problem. We've also got the hitch side
crowded with the battery and gas tanks--not much possibility of fitting the tire
there too. So, will we really regret reattaching it?
Mary
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 07:10:56 -0600
From: "Casey McDonough" <cmcdonough1@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #90
Hi all,
I just purchased a 56 Caravelle that I am redoing. I can't find where there
was a black tank or a holding tank anywhere so I'm trying to figure out
where to put one. I was thinking of taking the belly pan off and putting a
small tank under the toilet/shower area but I only have about 5 inches in
which to do it.
Anyone have any ideas or resources for how to fix this plumbing dilemma?
Regards,
Casey McDonough
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 06:30:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #90 - composting toilets, rear tire mount
Composting toilets are larger than regular ones - so
it's important to keep in mind that they're going to
require more room!
additionally, I've got a spare tire mounted to the
rear bumper of my 1960 Tradewind - I'm planning on
leaving it there.
Toby
> On a totally different subject--was surveying the
> toaster this weekend(lovely
> in the snow here in VA)... It came with a rear spare
> tire mount, apparently
> installed when the unit was new. The previous
> owners detatched it to paint it,
> but never replaced it. Now, after reading several
> online airstream
> restoration sites, I notice many folks have said
> that anything mounted to the rear is a
> big no-no. Now our unit is a 1961 Safari--and
> that's earlier than the units
> that started to have the drooping problem. We've
> also got the hitch side
> crowded with the battery and gas tanks--not much
> possibility of fitting the tire
> there too. So, will we really regret reattaching
> it?
>
> Mary
>
>
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>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 09:44:50 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:Black water tank maintence.
I've found that the blue stuff in an open bucket I've used in my
outhouse has a great benefit on the odor wafting out to meet me when I
open the door. Just takes a splash per use. Not so much that the odor of
the blue stuff gets strong.
That black water tank needs to be anchored well, without room for being
jostled, else it will break the flange connection again. The toilet is
bolted to it and to the floor of the shower. Looseness in the tank and
toilet mounts probably is what broke up the flange to begin with.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 10:19:01 -0600
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #90
My 63 has the black water tank ( ~ 10 gallons) sitting on top of the
floor under a wooden compartment. The toilet sits on top of this
compartment. See
http://www.nwflorida.net/gt00004.htm
for a set of pixs showing the fiberglass tank and the compartment.
Casey McDonough wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I just purchased a 56 Caravelle that I am redoing. I can't find where there
>was a black tank or a holding tank anywhere so I'm trying to figure out
>where to put one. I was thinking of taking the belly pan off and putting a
>small tank under the toilet/shower area but I only have about 5 inches in
>which to do it.
>
>Anyone have any ideas or resources for how to fix this plumbing dilemma?
>
>Regards,
>
>Casey McDonough
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 09:37:17 -0700
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] PEX plumbing
I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use would
be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
than cost.
I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper around
the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have read that it
is a little more tolerant to freezing.
Best Regards,
Jim
jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 12:35:22 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Spare tire mount
My 1960 Overlander has a factory spare tire mount welded onto the factory
reinforced bumper. Removal is not an option short of using heavy equipment!
If you keep the rest of the rear of the trailer lightly loaded you should be
OK. Of course this assumes that you havn't added other weighty items towards
the rear of the trailer. However, it is prudent to keep an eye on where the
frame exits the rear of the trailer. You are looking for any signs that the
gap between the shell and frame is widening. If this problem develops it is
not the end of the world.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> On a totally different subject--was surveying the toaster this
weekend(lovely
> in the snow here in VA)... It came with a rear spare tire mount,
apparently
> installed when the unit was new. The previous owners detatched it to
paint it,
> but never replaced it. Now, after reading several online airstream
> restoration sites, I notice many folks have said that anything mounted to
the rear is a
> big no-no. Now our unit is a 1961 Safari--and that's earlier than the
units
> that started to have the drooping problem. We've also got the hitch side
> crowded with the battery and gas tanks--not much possibility of fitting
the tire
> there too. So, will we really regret reattaching it?
>
> Mary
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 12:39:38 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] black tank
Black tanks (toilet holding tanks) were normally mounted between the floor
and the toilet in the 50's and at least the early 60's, not in the belly
pan. thought there is no reason that I can think of why you couldn't do so.
I would suggest a seperate tank to hold sink & shower water. Depending on
how the shower is plumbed you may need to mount that tank under the trailer.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Casey McDonough" <cmcdonough1@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Hi all,
>
> I just purchased a 56 Caravelle that I am redoing. I can't find where
there
> was a black tank or a holding tank anywhere so I'm trying to figure out
> where to put one. I was thinking of taking the belly pan off and putting
a
> small tank under the toilet/shower area but I only have about 5 inches in
> which to do it.
>
> Anyone have any ideas or resources for how to fix this plumbing dilemma?
>
> Regards,
>
> Casey McDonough
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 13:34:10 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] vent lifters
Anyone had any lasting success tapping and screwing the hole on the older
style vent lifter if the part that holds it onto the vent is broken off ? It
looks like it was originally riveted on somehow . Its for a 63 . I had an
extra good one , darned if I can find it now :>( so now I have to fix the
broken one
Chris - 63 flying cloud .
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 15:34:12 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] TV - local and satellite
Hi Gang,
Although I've mentioned this idea before, I now have the exact brand name
and part number. Last week, I installed it in our '89 32' Airstream. I've
done this same job on four previous Airstreams (but none were as well done).
What am I talking about? We want television reception from both our
satellite antenna and our standard TV antenna. To make that
happen, I have two TV cables in the general area of the TV set. One is a
separate cable from the satellite antenna and the other is from the factory
installed antenna.
The rub used to be finding a suitable backing plate to make for a neat
installation on the side of our Airstream. My installation method is
continually evolving and now includes a connector sold by Winegard
(2430132), called a 75 Ohm Through Roof Connector Model RJ-1010. It's made
of shiny aluminum that blends perfectly with the Airstream's skin. The
backing plate is about 3" square.
I positioned it two inches above the outside refrigerator vent door. By
choosing that location, it was simple:
- - to be sure the drilled cable hole would miss all electrical wiring,
- - to easily route the cable through the side wall,
- - to easily position the backing plate where I could reach it,
- - to easily drill the six holes and then pop rivet the backing plate in
place,
- - to neatly caulk around the backing plate and
- - to easily route the TV cable and connector inside the trailer where I
could drill a hole in the far corner of the cabinet top and pull the TV
cable up through it for connecting to the satellite receiver.
As of today, this is as far as I've gone. My next purchase (later this week)
will be a TV connector with two inlets on one side and one outlet on the
other side with a switch on top of the connector so I can select which
antenna source to use for TV reception. I haven't found that connector yet.
For the time being, I've been changing the antenna source manually.
Bottom line, we can now receive both national and international programming
and news via the satellite antenna as well as local programming via the
factory installed antenna. This enables us to view local weather forecasts
in the area where we're parked (an important consideration during hurricane
and tornado seasons).
This evening we learned the local station was broadcasting one of our
favorite programs at a different time than it was being broadcast on the
satellite. We watched the same program twice in the same evening. Maybe that
will be the case with movies.
Anyhow, this minor modification is a major convenience for us. It may be of
interest to others.
For a few days now, we've been at the Ocean Breeze Mobile Home Park in
Jensen Beach, FL. We didn't expect to stay here, but on a lark, we drove
through the park and found one RV campsite (a "drive-up" no less). It
happened to be 20 yards from the Indian River and a prime waterfront site.
That got our full attention. I signed up immediately. Our Airstream is
conspicuous among mobile homes. Sometimes random exploring brings surprising
opportunities. The biggest plus - this park is 2 miles from Mom's home and
within walking distance of a shopping mall.
Our next campground will be at the COE St. Lucie Locks near Stuart, FL. A
cancellation occurred and we latched onto it the same day. Sometimes our
luck runs in streaks.
Sandie and I are both well and our two cats continue to be a delight. This
is our 15th year fulltiming snowbirding and 40th year trailering the
continent. It's still an exciting lifestyle for us. Where but in America
does every citizen have this kind of freedom?
Happy Holidays,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
"The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. The
one path we shall never choose is the path of surrender or submission." by
John F. Kennedy
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 15:39:52 -0800
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] vent lifters
> Anyone had any lasting success tapping and screwing the hole on the older
> style vent lifter if the part that holds it onto the vent is broken off ?
It
> looks like it was originally riveted on somehow . Its for a 63 . I had an
> extra good one , darned if I can find it now :>( so now I have to fix the
> broken one
> Chris - 63 flying cloud .
Chris,
The original lifters had a stub protruding through the hole in the hinge. It
was center punched in three spots to keep the lifter from rotating in the
hinge. When the lifters freeze up you end up spinning the end of the lifter
in the hinge hole which stops the lifter from lifting. I have re center
punched a few before the ends broke off with success however if the end is
broken off it is not necessarily scrap. I found a couple of NOS
replacement lifters in my 59 Ambassador when I bought it a couple of years
ago. They had holes drilled and tapped in the end with screws and lock
washers fitted. I have since used them on one of my vents and the concept
worked well.
Colin
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 16:45:34 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] TV - local and satellite
Look for a game/tv switch. Made to switch between a game and the TV
antenna feeding the TV coaxial input. At least that was what it was in
the old days. I'm sure the modern game boy feeds high quality video
direct to the TV instead of via channel 3.
Should be on a hook in every electronic game department. I've seen the
best prices for computer cables recently at Target, beating RS and
Walmart in selection and price.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 18:42:43 -0500
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] vent lifters
Chris,
I have three sets of old type vent lifters. They were riveted to the vent
originally. Please contact me off list if you would like to purchase a set.
Pete
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of Chris Elliott
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 1:34 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] vent lifters
Anyone had any lasting success tapping and screwing the hole on the older
style vent lifter if the part that holds it onto the vent is broken off ? It
looks like it was originally riveted on somehow . Its for a 63 . I had an
extra good one , darned if I can find it now :>( so now I have to fix the
broken one
Chris - 63 flying cloud .
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 09:19:31 +0900
From: Jeffrey Fryckman <fryckman@xxxxxxxxxx.att.ne.jp>
Subject: Re: [VAL] vent lifters
I too have to replace some old broken vent cranks that are the type with
no handle, just a knob. I've seen ones on the net that look a little
homemade to me, but does anyone know of another source for these that is
more original looking?
1953 or 54 Flying Cloud
Jeff
On Tuesday, December 9, 2003, at 03:34 AM, Chris Elliott wrote:
> Anyone had any lasting success tapping and screwing the hole on the
> older
> style vent lifter if the part that holds it onto the vent is broken
> off ? It
> looks like it was originally riveted on somehow . Its for a 63 . I had
> an
> extra good one , darned if I can find it now :>( so now I have to fix
> the
> broken one
> Chris - 63 flying cloud .
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 20:44:17 -0500
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Oh what timing!
I am in the process of determining what to use on my 59 restoration
project, PEX, copper, PVC or anything else someone might have had good
luck with. I'm lucky as I have a gutted trailer (slowly going back
together) and I think I have some flexibility with what is used. Are
there any pluses or minuses that we should consider? To be honest I have
never seen PEX, or maybe I have and never realized it.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign (all copper)
59 Traveler (TBD)
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cooper
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 11:37 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] PEX plumbing
I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use would
be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
than cost.
I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper around
the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have read that it
is a little more tolerant to freezing.
Best Regards,
Jim
jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
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When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 19:58:05 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Hi Ed and Jim,
When redoing my '59 Trade Wind several years ago, I chose to use PEX. It is
somewhat flexible while being very strong. It is re-enforced poly tubing. It
cuts easily and uses quick connect elbows, T's and valves. I've not
experienced any problems with it since installing it. When installing, I
wrapped a slotted insulation tube everywhere aft of the water heater on the
hot side. This keeps the water extremely hot and at the rear, I can tell the
hot from the cold water line quite easily. Good luck in whatever your
decision.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT
> Oh what timing!
> I am in the process of determining what to use on my 59 restoration
> project, PEX, copper, PVC or anything else someone might have had good
> luck with. I'm lucky as I have a gutted trailer (slowly going back
> together) and I think I have some flexibility with what is used. Are
> there any pluses or minuses that we should consider? To be honest I have
> never seen PEX, or maybe I have and never realized it.
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign (all copper)
> 59 Traveler (TBD)
>
>
>
> I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
> seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
> store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
> connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use would
> be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
> than cost.
>
> I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper around
> the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have read that it
> is a little more tolerant to freezing.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 03:08:45 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #89 - Flush that tank!
For some reason the kids tend to throw used TP in the bathroom trash can. Real problem.
Get one to stop and another starts doing it.
Ugh!
If you aren't lazy and will dump the BW tank frequently, you won't be likely to have
problems. Fill the tank with water when it is less than halfway full from flushing, and
dump it. My tank looks almost squeaky clean and the level indicator works fine (24 yrs
old). Of course this is when you're in a park with water and sewer connections at site.
Put the used toilet paper in the toilet! Don't spread disease (or even
stink) with it any place else. You can make it dissolve better by using
special RV paper (at ten times the cost of ordinary toilet paper).
Primarily, leave the drain closed even when hooked up until the black
water tank has nearly filled with solids AND liquid. Add liquid if
necessary to be sure the tank has plenty. Then drain it and close the
drain again. If you drain it constantly, you will develop a lump or cone
of solidified stuff reinforced by paper that can be hard to remove. The
water, ice, and short trip scheme is as good as the special spray wands
sold for the cleaning purpose....
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 19:19:05 -0800
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Cross-linked Polyethylene ("PEX") is now the industry standard for
rv/trailer plumbing... i seem to recall that Airstream Dreams carried the
tools and fittings at one time, but a quick check of their website shows
that to be untrue.
http://www.flair-it.com/ is the website to get the skinny on the stuff you
need, and what you can do with it...
the Trailwind will (someday) get a complete PEX system, with manifolds and
bypasses etc. to simplify r&r of components, and winterizing, etc... it
really is the way to go.
tuna
reno, nv
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 5:44 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] PEX plumbing
> Oh what timing!
> I am in the process of determining what to use on my 59 restoration
> project, PEX, copper, PVC or anything else someone might have had good
> luck with. I'm lucky as I have a gutted trailer (slowly going back
> together) and I think I have some flexibility with what is used. Are
> there any pluses or minuses that we should consider? To be honest I have
> never seen PEX, or maybe I have and never realized it.
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign (all copper)
> 59 Traveler (TBD)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cooper
> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 11:37 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] PEX plumbing
>
>
> I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
> seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
> store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
> connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use would
> be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
> than cost.
>
> I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper around
> the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have read that it
> is a little more tolerant to freezing.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
>
> jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 22:51:44 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #90
Hi Casey,
If I had one of those, I think I would just use a porta potty. Adding
the weight of the filled tank is going to stress the frame, which wasn't
designed for it. And it's a LOT of hard work, and you have to find a
dump station.
Daisy
Casey McDonough wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I just purchased a 56 Caravelle that I am redoing. I can't find where there
> was a black tank or a holding tank anywhere so I'm trying to figure out
> where to put one. I was thinking of taking the belly pan off and putting a
> small tank under the toilet/shower area but I only have about 5 inches in
> which to do it.
>
> Anyone have any ideas or resources for how to fix this plumbing dilemma?
>
> Regards,
>
> Casey McDonough
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 20:11:50 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <timshephard@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
After my trailer flooded out last year due to the PO's rubber hose and clamp
repairs, I decided to replumb my trailer.
I researched it and chose CPVC over PEX. My reasons were the cost of the
special crimp tool needed was excessive. Or the use of the compression
fitting Flair It fittings in place of the crimps were also expensive. ie.
$4-5 vs 50 cents for a cpvc fitting.
Also, my local hardware store had all the CPVC supplies. The valves and
fittings are also smaller making it easier to make the manifolds and
connections. You also glue the fittings which I felt would be better in a
vibrating trailer.
So far we only used it 3-4 times since the replumb and all has been just
fine. Nice to not have to worry about it anymore. I used to shut the water
off at the campsite whenever we left the trailer. Now I don't need to worry
about it.
You can see more of my plumbing work here:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/plumbing.htm
Good luck
- -Tim
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 5:44 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] PEX plumbing
> Oh what timing!
> I am in the process of determining what to use on my 59 restoration
> project, PEX, copper, PVC or anything else someone might have had good
> luck with. I'm lucky as I have a gutted trailer (slowly going back
> together) and I think I have some flexibility with what is used. Are
> there any pluses or minuses that we should consider? To be honest I have
> never seen PEX, or maybe I have and never realized it.
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign (all copper)
> 59 Traveler (TBD)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cooper
> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 11:37 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] PEX plumbing
>
>
> I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
> seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
> store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
> connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use would
> be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
> than cost.
>
> I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper around
> the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have read that it
> is a little more tolerant to freezing.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 21:30:48 -0700
From: "Earl Peck" <earlpeck@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Hi Jim,
I just re-plumbed my 65 Overlander with pex. It was really quite easy and
all fittings and hardware (T's, drain valves, on off valves, ect.) was
available at either Home depot or the local plumbing supply store. I used
the crimp type fittings and purchased the screw down type crimper from Home
depot, about $65.00. I understand that alot of H. D. stores rent the
crimpers but because I live 65 miles away from the store it was much more
cost effective and convienant to buy. I used all white pex so at times it
was a little difficult to determine lines without tracing them back. I
understand they now are making red, white, and blue pex so besides being a
bit patriotic, line identification would be much easier. Be sure and
presurize the lines and check for leaks while everthing is out in the open.
Earl Peck
1965 Overlander Intl.
WBCC 1965
Bellevue, ID
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 9:37 AM
Subject: [VAL] PEX plumbing
> I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
> seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
> store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
> connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use would
> be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
> than cost.
>
> I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper around
> the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have read that it
> is a little more tolerant to freezing.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
>
> jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 00:05:41 -0500
From: "Tricia & Conrad Holsomback" <triconholsomback@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #89 - Flush that tank!
waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com said "Fill the tank with water when it is less than
halfway full from flushing, and dump it."
We like to put in lots of water right after dumping. It really prevents
odor and build up, because the water helps dissolve everything quicker.
Then when almost full we dump it. It is only when we are not hooked up
to a sewer connection, that we don't do so. Then we are conservative
with the paper.
We don't use a chemical, although we had to use some when we first
bought the trailer to dissolve some build up and make the valve close
completely, as the previous owner had been parked in a permanent spot
for a few years.
Tricia & Conrad
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------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #91
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