VAL Digest V1 #88

VAL Digest         Saturday, December 6 2003         Volume 01 : Number 088




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] RE:  questa grade
Re: [VAL] RE:  questa grade
Re: [VAL] RE:  questa grade
[VAL] To many Toys?
Re: [VAL] was introduction, now uhaul truck
Re: [VAL] RE:  questa grade
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #86 - Wiring grommets-bushings
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #85 - Battery gases
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #85 - Breakaway switch & stop lights??
Re: [VAL] was introduction, now uhaul truck
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #85 - Battery gases
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul
[VAL] Re: Trailer Brake service
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #80 - New or Used?
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #83 - Insulation
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #85 - Battery gases
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul
RE: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul
Re: [VAL] Re: Toilet flange and the black water tank

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 23:49:28 -0800
From: Susan Altstatt <dsa@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE:  questa grade

Welcome Glyn;

Suggestion:
Avoid the Questa by going to Morro Bay via 41 at Paso Robles and then 1 
south to San Louis Obispo. Comments Jo Ann? (It's your backyard!) BTW,
we pass by SLO to/from Santa Barbara once or twice a year.
- -- 
Susan Altstatt
Altstatt Associates
www.altstatt.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 07:08:51 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE:  questa grade

    Susan,

    Thanks for the suggestion.  I'd be interested to see what Joann has to
say too.

    Glyn

> From: Susan Altstatt <dsa@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Organization: Altstatt Associates
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 23:49:28 -0800
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] RE:  questa grade
> 
> Welcome Glyn;
> 
> Suggestion:
> Avoid the Questa by going to Morro Bay via 41 at Paso Robles and then 1
> south to San Louis Obispo. Comments Jo Ann? (It's your backyard!) BTW,
> we pass by SLO to/from Santa Barbara once or twice a year.
> -- 
> Susan Altstatt
> Altstatt Associates
> www.altstatt.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 08:31:28 -0800
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE:  questa grade

[i'm re-posting this reply - it doesn't seem to have gone through...]

Glyn -

When i brought my 19' Trailwind up to Reno from North Hollywood a few years
back, there was no question of towing it - the 1948 vintage trailer might
have shaken itself to pieces long before i got it home... so i towed it on a
tandem axle flat-bed trailer behind my then-tow vehicle, a 5.9L '99 Durango
w/'tow package', rigged to tow up to 7,500 lbs, safely, with load
distribution hitch, Jordan brake controller, breakaway switch/battery on the
flatbed, etc...

I would probably go along with Dr.J's suggestion to load the Airstream on a
u-haul vehicle-carrier, and tow that behind the u-haul truck. The u-haul
rental place will make sure that you have an acceptably safe rig, and by
renting the truck and carrier from u-haul, you'll be able to get the
coverage you want/need, too.

Most rental trailers use trailer-mounted 'surge brakes' which obviate the
need for (but definitely not preferable to), a separate brake controller in
the tow vehicle, and also prevent the use of a load-distributing/'equalizer'
hitch (no place to mount the trunnion-bar brackets).

I can't find the post at the moment (July or August of 2002), but I seem to
recall that someone on one of the Airstream lists had discovered that Budget
Rent-a-Truck was renting trucks and vans equipped with interchangeable
hitch-balls and (possibly) electric brake-controllers... or at least had
tow-vehicles available for rent... and they'd posted this information while
i was in the middle of three harrowing cross-country trips moving stuff
(including a '93 Mustang 5.0 on a car-carrier).

I've been towing all sorts of things all over the country for nearly 30
years, and the one 'incident' i've had occurred last year when my 1-ton
dually B-van's engine blew up 1400 miles into the third of those six 2,600
mile 'legs'... being that i was running late on a very tight schedule, i
neglected to have the proper service done after two 2,600 mile trips, the
second of which was towing about 6,600 lbs in brutal August heat...

Anyway, i would *never* tow anything without having spent a day or two
checking out the wheels, bearings, tires, suspension, tail-light/brake
wiring, etc. on the trailer... and i'd make sure that the tow-vehicle was
more than adequate to handle the load under 'worst-case scenario'
conditions.

Regarding the Toyota - personally, I don't think a modern-day V6 would meet
my safety criteria for anything larger than a small utility trailer, for
'around-town' hauling, at that.

I really love my Ram 1500, which is rated to tow 7,650 lbs. 'as equipped'. I
did the last two legs of last year's marathon in it, towing a loaded u-haul
trailer along I-80, much of it in rain and snow. Of the Big 3, only the
Dodge Ram 1/2-ton seems to be able to handle a 7,000 lb + trailer with
confidence. IMO, even the new '03 Durango 'Hemi' would out-pull a GM or Ford
1/2 ton... but, for a relative novice trailer-tower, I think most would
agree that nothing less than a 3/4 ton pickup would provide the kind of
safety and comfort you really ought to have.

My personal 'pick' for a '69 Caravel's tow-vehicle would be something
contemporaneous, along the lines of an Olds 'Delta-88', a '69 Jeep Wagoneer,
or even better, a '69 International Harvester 'Travel-All" or 'Traveler'...
an added advantage of using a well-maintained or renovated older vehicle is
that you can use (IMO) best kind of brake controller - the
hydraulic-electric, like the old Kelsey-Hayes...

tuna
reno, nv
'48 Airstream 'Trailwind' (undergoing renovation)
'49 Willys-Overland 'Jeepster' (undergoing re-power/renovation)
'79 Dodge 'Champion' B-van
'81 Alii-Kai fishing/dive boat
'99 Plymouth 'Prowler' (paxton-supercharged, borla exhaust, titanium
gearset)/matching luggage trailer
'83 Burro 13' fiberglass travel-trailer
'02 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 'Sport' w/tow-package
'99 Parker 24' flatbed equipment hauler
'01 homemade utility-trailer (using the old running-gear from the '48
Airstream)
'61 Kaiser-Willys FC-170 "ForwardControl) pickup truck (way back burner
restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 12:02:46 -0800
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: [VAL] To many Toys?

> tuna
> reno, nv
> '48 Airstream 'Trailwind' (undergoing renovation)
> '49 Willys-Overland 'Jeepster' (undergoing re-power/renovation)
> '79 Dodge 'Champion' B-van
> '81 Alii-Kai fishing/dive boat
> '99 Plymouth 'Prowler' (paxton-supercharged, borla exhaust, titanium
> gearset)/matching luggage trailer
> '83 Burro 13' fiberglass travel-trailer
> '02 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 'Sport' w/tow-package
> '99 Parker 24' flatbed equipment hauler
> '01 homemade utility-trailer (using the old running-gear from the '48
> Airstream)
> '61 Kaiser-Willys FC-170 "ForwardControl) pickup truck (way back burner
> restoration)

And I thought I had "toys". I don't feel so bad now. 
Thanks Tuna
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 18:37:32 -0800
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] was introduction, now uhaul truck

Glyn -

When i brought my 19' Trailwind up to Reno from North Hollywood a few years
back, there was no question of towing it - the 1948 vintage trailer might
have shaken itself to pieces long before i got it home... so i towed it on a
tandem axle flat-bed trailer behind my then-tow vehicle, a 5.9L '99 Durango
w/'tow package', rigged to tow up to 7,500 lbs, safely, with load
distribution hitch, Jordan brake controller, breakaway switch/battery on the
flatbed, etc...

I would probably go along with Dr.J's suggestion to load the Airstream on a
u-haul vehicle-carrier, and tow that behind the u-haul truck. The u-haul
rental place will make sure that you have an acceptably safe rig, and by
renting the truck and carrier from u-haul, you'll be able to get the
coverage you want/need, too.

Most rental trailers use trailer-mounted 'surge brakes' which obviate the
need for (but definitely not preferable to), a separate brake controller in
the tow vehicle, and also prevent the use of a load-distributing/'equalizer'
hitch (no place to mount the trunnion-bar brackets).

I can't find the post at the moment (July or August of 2002), but I seem to
recall that someone on one of the Airstream lists had discovered that Budget
Rent-a-Truck was renting trucks and vans equipped with interchangeable
hitch-balls and (possibly) electric brake-controllers... or at least had
tow-vehicles available for rent... and they'd posted this information while
i was in the middle of three harrowing cross-country trips moving stuff
(including a '93 Mustang 5.0 on a car-carrier).

I've been towing all sorts of things all over the country for nearly 30
years, and the one 'incident' i've had occurred last year when my 1-ton
dually B-van's engine blew up 1400 miles into the third of those six 2,600
mile 'legs'... being that i was running late on a very tight schedule, i
neglected to have the proper service done after two 2,600 mile trips, the
second of which was towing about 6,600 lbs in brutal August heat...

Anyway, i would *never* tow anything without having spent a day or two
checking out the wheels, bearings, tires, suspension, tail-light/brake
wiring, etc. on the trailer... and i'd make sure that the tow-vehicle was
more than adequate to handle the load under 'worst-case scenario'
conditions.

Regarding the Toyota - personally, I don't think a modern-day V6 would meet
my safety criteria for anything larger than a small utility trailer, for
'around-town' hauling, at that.

I really love my Ram 1500, which is rated to tow 7,650 lbs. 'as equipped'. I
did the last two legs of last year's marathon in it, towing a loaded u-haul
trailer along I-80, much of it in rain and snow. Of the Big 3, only the
Dodge Ram 1/2-ton seems to be able to handle a 7,000 lb + trailer with
confidence. IMO, even the new '03 Durango 'Hemi' would out-pull a GM or Ford
1/2 ton... but, for a relative novice trailer-tower, I think most would
agree that nothing less than a 3/4 ton pickup would provide the kind of
safety and comfort you really ought to have.

My personal 'pick' for a '69 Caravel's tow-vehicle would be something
contemporaneous, along the lines of an Olds 'Delta-88', a '69 Jeep Wagoneer,
or even better, a '69 International Harvester 'Travel-All" or 'Traveler'...
an added advantage of using a well-maintained or renovated older vehicle is
that you can use (IMO) best kind of brake controller - the
hydraulic-electric, like the old Kelsey-Hayes...

tuna
reno, nv
'48 Airstream 'Trailwind' (undergoing renovation)
'49 Willys-Overland 'Jeepster' (undergoing re-power/renovation)
'79 Dodge 'Champion' B-van
'81 Alii-Kai fishing/dive boat
'99 Plymouth 'Prowler' (paxton-supercharged, borla exhaust, titanium
gearset)/matching luggage trailer
'83 Burro 13' fiberglass travel-trailer
'02 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 'Sport' w/tow-package
'99 Parker 24' flatbed equipment hauler
'01 homemade utility-trailer (using the old running-gear from the '48
Airstream)
'61 Kaiser-Willys FC-170 "ForwardControl) pickup truck (way back burner
restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 14:58:54 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE:  questa grade

Well, the Cuesta Grade/101 route is more direct and with the newly 
constructed road bed and truck lane, not so bad if you use your lower 
gears. The Hwy 41 route is a gorgeous drive and I've used that "long 
cut" myself with my old Bubble. It's a few miles longer but sooo 
pretty. Gwyn would then get into San Luis Obispo, Hwy 101 intersect via 
Hwy 1 and get to see Morro Bay and Morro Rock. Good thinking there 
Susan, I'd actually forgotten about that cute little driving trick!
On Dec 4, 2003, at 11:49 PM, Susan Altstatt wrote:

> Welcome Glyn;
>
> Suggestion:
> Avoid the Questa by going to Morro Bay via 41 at Paso Robles and then 
> 1 south to San Louis Obispo. Comments Jo Ann? (It's your backyard!) 
> BTW,
> we pass by SLO to/from Santa Barbara once or twice a year.
> -- 
> Susan Altstatt
> Altstatt Associates
> www.altstatt.com
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 23:00:39 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #86 - Wiring grommets-bushings

I've used short lengths of rubber hose to protect wires from rubbing in holes in the frame. 
It can be split and spread to go over the wire(s). Then I taped it to the wire(s) with 
electrical tape. It won't slide on the wire(s) out of the hole, and the wires won't chafe 
on the hose.
Even if it eventually rubbed thru the wire insulation shorts would be unlikely.
Al Grayson

The plastic grommet in one was missing.... The brake light wires were cut through at that point.... 
   Jim
 
 
When I ran the wires through the frame I cut lengyhs of heavy plastic tubing to act as bushings 
through the frame and ran the wires through them....
Jim Smith

Old grommets can be nearly as hard on wire insulation as no grommet at
all....
My collection (of at least 40 years) of rubber grommets has turned to
rock hard. I've found a grommet collection at Radio Shack made of a soft
plastic that may have better longevity.... 
Gerald J.

Unless well rounded, the ends of the heavy plastic tubing can also cut
through the wire insulation and the wire.... 
Gerald J.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 23:16:50 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #85 - Battery gases

You might not want to put the converter or other electronic things in the same space as the 
battery.
My old ('79) converter has just about finished off two modern sealed deep cycle batteries. 
The manual said to check the battery water level and add (distilled) when needed. Impossible 
with a sealed battery. I am going to have to get a modern converter that will not cook the 
batteries and evaporate the water before I replace the batteries.
As the top of my plastic battery box blew off on the last trip I am going to have to get a 
new one. 
I am considering getting a bigger deep cycle battery or batteries, like one for a floor sweeper, 
since I have to get or make a new battery box anyway. Any experience with such batteries?
Al Grayson

> 
> I'd like your opinion.   Several of you have commented about battery
> out-gassing and the associated benefit of having the battery outside
of the trailer.  I'm thinking about constructing an aluminum box on the
67 Tradewind tongue that will hold the battery, Univolt, 12vdc fuse
panel, and 110vac breaker box.  Shore power will plug into the box.  The skin is off the belly 
now and the wiring changes would not be hard....
> 
> Does anyone have any good argument for or against this idea?
> 
> Best Regards,
>    Jim

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 23:28:42 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #85 - Breakaway switch & stop lights??

Having the brake lights on the trailer come on in a breakaway is the least of concerns.
The trailer brakes come on full power, locking the wheels, to slow the trailer down as much as 
possible before it turns, rolls over, crosses the center and hits the school bus. (:-((
No, the trailer brake lights don't come on if the breakaway is activated.
There will be no breakaways if the trailer is properly attached to the tow vehicle, at least not 
unless the rig is in a big crash.
I have seen quite miserable chains even on new trailers. The chains should be strong enough that 
the entire A-frame or tow vehicle rear frame is torn off without breaking the safety chains. 
Heavy screw ("French") links rather than open hooks should be used.
Al Grayson


From: "William Durkee" <bdkli@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Installing Grote taillights

I thought the purpose of the separate stop wire was for the breakaway 
switch?  This way the brake lights will light if the trailer breaks away from the vehicle.


Bill Durkee

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 17:34:21 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] was introduction, now uhaul truck

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] was introduction, now uhaul truck


I also have a 69 18ft caravel.  Tow vehicle is a 02
Toyota Sienna.  Pulled it up Mt Mitchael in NC. Highest place east of the
rockies.  No Problem.  I would not load my caravel with fire wood and try to
make the trip.
Dan
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 15:51:32 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #85 - Battery gases

    Al and All,

    As you know I'm new to the list so forgive me if I put my foot in my
mouth publicly and say the wrong thing at the wrong time but I have
extensive marine experience (own a sailboat) and thought I'd ask if it were
a popular move to use golf cart batteries for greater capacity?  If so,
there is a box made by Blue Sea and sold under the West Marine label which
looks like this.  
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearch?storeId=10001
&catalogId=10001&keyword=3669876

    Forgive me if I'm off base but thought I'd make some aware of these well
made boxes.  

    Glyn

> From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 23:16:50 GMT
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #85 - Battery gases
> 
> You might not want to put the converter or other electronic things in the same
> space as the battery.
> My old ('79) converter has just about finished off two modern sealed deep
> cycle batteries. The manual said to check the battery water level and add
> (distilled) when needed. Impossible with a sealed battery. I am going to have
> to get a modern converter that will not cook the batteries and evaporate the
> water before I replace the batteries.
> As the top of my plastic battery box blew off on the last trip I am going to
> have to get a new one.
> I am considering getting a bigger deep cycle battery or batteries, like one
> for a floor sweeper, since I have to get or make a new battery box anyway. Any
> experience with such batteries?
> Al Grayson
> 
>> 
>> I'd like your opinion.   Several of you have commented about battery
>> out-gassing and the associated benefit of having the battery outside
> of the trailer.  I'm thinking about constructing an aluminum box on the
> 67 Tradewind tongue that will hold the battery, Univolt, 12vdc fuse
> panel, and 110vac breaker box.  Shore power will plug into the box.  The skin
> is off the belly now and the wiring changes would not be hard....
>> 
>> Does anyone have any good argument for or against this idea?
>> 
>> Best Regards,
>> Jim
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 23:56:47 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul

Most if not all states require continuous brakes. Some require brakes for trailers as low as 1000#.
Ask the U-Haul dealer if the truck has a brake controller, and if it doesn't, ask if you can install 
yours. Most require wires only to the battery + & - and the stop light switch. Your blue wire 
(preferably 8 ga., min. 10 ga.) to the trailer brakes can run straight from the controller to your 
trailer brakes without a connector since you will not be disconnecting until you drop the trailer 
at its destination.
No modifications to the truck will be necessary. If you can't find a hole in the firewall to run the 
power wires thru you can run them out the door jamb and dive them under the edge of the hood to the
battery. The brake wire can go out the door and be tied to the frame on the way back to the rear. The 
stop light switch wire can probably be held to the spade lug on the stop light switch by the factory 
connector. An alligator clip can be used.

If the U-Haul doesn't have a receiver you won't be able to use a WD hitch, but unless the U-Haul is 
a really small one its hitch should be sufficient. I towed a '52 Spartanette (7800# listed weight) 
with a midsize U-Haul a few years ago. S-l-o-o-o-w. Not any 45 mph; 20-25 max.

Your trailer (most likely) uses a 2 5/16" coupler; the truck probably has a 2" ball. You will have 
to swap yout 2 5/16" ball for the trip and then swap theirs back when done.
Al Grayson

From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Our introduction

>     We plan to rent a one way, 14 foot U-Haul box truck up there to tow it with (very slowly).

Hi Glyn:

Congrats on your new baby.  Re: the U-Haul truck.  I don't think you can
hook anything but the lights up to one of those.  I'd be surprised if they even had an adequate hitch.  
In any case, you almost certainly will not be able to hook up the trailer brakes.  Could be asking for 
it.  Might be an interesting converstion you would have with your insurance man in the event of an 
accident on the way.  Long way from Sacto to Santa Monica, especially the way you are going.  You 
actually would be safer in that situation on I-5, IMHO.

But in any event, good luck, be careful, and have fun.

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

    The issue of the electric brakes has gotten my attention too.  What is involved in adding the 
hardware  (temporarily) to the U-Haul so as to have them operable?...
    Glyn


    What are your thoughts on temporarily installing an electric brake
system in the U-Haul?  Is that too much to expect to do myself?...

    Glyn

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 00:05:09 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Trailer Brake service

Be careful if you have a shop that is not a trailer shop work on your electric brakes. Brake cleaner 
sprayed into the magnets will melt the insulation of the windings and wires.

As has been recommended on this list, it's best to replace the entire brake assembly when the linings 
are worn out rather than just having the shoes relined or replaced.
Drums can be turned but are best replaced if badly worn or scored. The electric brake drums I have 
seen were quite thin, with no boss on the open side to reduce bellmouthing.
Al Grayson

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 00:35:40 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #80 - New or Used?

SOMEONE has to buy new trailers and MHs for us indigents and tightwads to have used ones to buy. ;-)
But not me, thanks.
Al

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 00:51:06 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #83 - Insulation

The first priority is air leaks, not insulation. A small air leak will chill the interior more than 
a LOT of insulation will make up for.
Of course you have to have some air exchange, but it's better to have it under your control rather 
than leaving it up to infiltration.
My trailer became quite noticeably warmer after sealing with plumber's putty around the grommets of 
the where the wires go to the converter from the interior.
Al Grayson

>   4. The prior owner was obsessed with insulation behind the access doors and around the wheel 
wells but didn't notice that it didn't stay in place....
>   Joe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 19:54:30 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #85 - Battery gases

On a watt hour per buck basis, the golf cart batteries generally give
the greatest capacity. Its possible some collections of 12 volt deep
cycle or super performance batteries will give more watt hours per pound
at a significantly greater cost per watt hour. The required series
connection of the 6 volt batteries seems to confuse some vintage
airstreamers (as it does vintage tractor owners). The battery to battery
jumper is less commonly available at retail stores, though I'm sure its
available in several cable sizes and lengths at NAPA.

It is important for battery life that the battery be well anchored and
protected from dirt on the top (that can run the battery down over time
from leakage from post to post). A good battery box to hold a pair or
quad of gold cart batteries would be good for that application.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 18:20:40 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul

    Al and all,

>>snip I towed a '52 Spartanette (7800# listed weight) with a midsize U-Haul a
few years ago. 

    Some have mentioned 2 5/16" as the ball size on their Airstreams.  Is
that a standard throughout the fleet?  The latest problem is that all U-Haul
trucks have only 2" balls welded on and no additional mounting hole for a
larger one.  

    A few recent posts spoke of using a U-Haul to tow their Airstream and I
wonder how they did that.  Are there shims used for smaller balls or are the
shorter Airstreams fitted to accept 2" balls?

    By the way, I have a call in to the Sacramento Transporters but I can't
get the guy to call me back after the initial conversation around 1 PM where
he said he'd call in 15 minutes.  Grrrr!

    Panicked in Santa Monica (Glyn)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 22:08:36 -0600
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul

Greetings Glyn!

Unless a previous owner has made changes to the tongue, Airstreams
produced up through 1968 had a 2" coupler - - usually a Marvel during
much of the 1960s.  When the redesigned coaches were introduced in 1969,
the 2 5/16" ball was part of that package.  The biggest concern that I
have had with my '64 Overlander has been finding a 2" ball with a high
enough weight rating to safely tow my trailer - - I have usually found a
properly rated ball by going to my Airstream dealer or a specialty
trailer supply store.

Good luck with your new acquisition!

Kevin

Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Glyn Judson
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 8:21 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul

    Al and all,

>>snip I towed a '52 Spartanette (7800# listed weight) with a midsize
U-Haul a
few years ago. 

    Some have mentioned 2 5/16" as the ball size on their Airstreams.
Is
that a standard throughout the fleet?  The latest problem is that all
U-Haul
trucks have only 2" balls welded on and no additional mounting hole for
a
larger one.  

    A few recent posts spoke of using a U-Haul to tow their Airstream
and I
wonder how they did that.  Are there shims used for smaller balls or are
the
shorter Airstreams fitted to accept 2" balls?

    By the way, I have a call in to the Sacramento Transporters but I
can't
get the guy to call me back after the initial conversation around 1 PM
where
he said he'd call in 15 minutes.  Grrrr!

    Panicked in Santa Monica (Glyn)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 20:18:36 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul

Glyn - My '57 Bubble (Airstream) has a 2" ball size. Jo Ann
On Dec 5, 2003, at 6:20 PM, Glyn Judson wrote:

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 23:16:24 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul

My 1965 tradewind 24 has a 2in ball.
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 23:20:37 -0500
From: "Dash7 (Michigan)" <dash7_@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul

My 68 Overlander has a coupler for a 2" ball

Don (MI)


>From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul
>Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 18:20:40 -0800
>
>     Al and all,
>
> >>snip I towed a '52 Spartanette (7800# listed weight) with a midsize 
>U-Haul a
>few years ago.
>
>     Some have mentioned 2 5/16" as the ball size on their Airstreams.  Is
>that a standard throughout the fleet?  The latest problem is that all 
>U-Haul
>trucks have only 2" balls welded on and no additional mounting hole for a
>larger one.
>
>     A few recent posts spoke of using a U-Haul to tow their Airstream and 
>I
>wonder how they did that.  Are there shims used for smaller balls or are 
>the
>shorter Airstreams fitted to accept 2" balls?
>
>     By the way, I have a call in to the Sacramento Transporters but I 
>can't
>get the guy to call me back after the initial conversation around 1 PM 
>where
>he said he'd call in 15 minutes.  Grrrr!
>
>     Panicked in Santa Monica (Glyn)
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Shop online for kids toys by age group, price range, and toy category at 
MSN Shopping. No waiting for a clerk to help you! http://shopping.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 22:56:44 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul

The often missing page 109 in the '68 owner's manual says all had 2"
hitches that year. Look for it on my web page,
http://homepages.isunet.net/geraldj

When looking for a sturdy ball, look for a larger mounting stud. At
least 1-1/4" diameter, preferably larger. Though the standard load
equalizing hitch I have won't take much over a 1-3/8" stud.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 21:08:15 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #87 Towing TT with U-Haul

    Kevin and all,

    I placed a call to the current owner tonight who called back to tell me
that it's a 2" ball.  Does this suggest that early 1969 models were fitted
with smaller hitches to deplete old inventory from the year before?

    Again, thanks to everyone,

    Glyn

> Unless a previous owner has made changes to the tongue, Airstreams
> produced up through 1968 had a 2" coupler - - usually a Marvel during
> much of the 1960s.  When the redesigned coaches were introduced in 1969,
> the 2 5/16" ball was part of that package.  The biggest concern that I
> have had with my '64 Overlander has been finding a 2" ball with a high
> enough weight rating to safely tow my trailer - - I have usually found a
> properly rated ball by going to my Airstream dealer or a specialty
> trailer supply store.
> 
> Good luck with your new acquisition!
> 
> Kevin
> 
> Kevin D. Allen
> 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
> 1978 Argosy Minuet
> 1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
> WBCCI/VAC #6359

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 00:20:02 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Toilet flange and the black water tank

If you go ahead and repair the duct work and let it heat the tank like it's
supposed to you will appreciate the effort later. Or you can chance it and
find the tank leaking after a cold winter. A black tank cost around $300.00
and up depending on size.

Bobby
Valdosta, GA
(Supposed to be in the 30's tonight)
  ----- Original Message -----
  Wrom: EPYOQKEDOTWFAO
  To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
  Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 4:11 AM
  Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Toilet flange and the black water tank


  RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
  <snip> Did you know that a
  > portion of the heat duct work (Ours is a '65 Airstream) extends back into
the
  > black water tank compartment?! I was very suprised to see that! I guess
it's
  > supposed to heat the sewage and keep it from freezing, right?

  That's exactly why it's there.

  That detail may have
  > been the conduit for vermine and odors to get in. We will cap it off.

  I'd sure hate to bet that the trailer will never again go where it's
  cold outside.  If you have mousies in your housie I doubt the heater
  ducts are their entry route unless the ductwork is no longer intact.
  I'll bet you would be happier in the long run if you just got the
  original heat system up to snuff.  As far as the odors are concerned, is
  the vent pipe clear?  The leaking flange is also a pretty good bet, and
  you are fixing that.

  Thanks,
  > Stuart
  >
  Matt

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------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #88
************************


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