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VAL Digest V1 #8



VAL Digest         Tuesday, September 16 2003         Volume 01 : Number 008




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] The topic is VINTAGE AIRSTREAMS
Re: [VAL] Re:Dometic Refrigerator
Re: [VAL] Re: [VACList] Truck Tires?
Re: Re: [VAL] Re: [VACList] Truck Tires?
Re: [VAL] skin repair referral sought
Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
Re: [VAL] The topic is VINTAGE AIRSTREAMS
Re: [VAL] The topic is VINTAGE AIRSTREAMS
[VAL] Re: Painting and Repairing Plastic (and woodwork)
RE: [VAL] Painting /adding style
RE: [VAL] Painting and Repairing Plastic
RE: [VAL] Painting /adding style
RE: [VAL] Re: Painting and Repairing Plastic (and woodwork)
Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
RE: [VAL] Weak Brake lights

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Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:00:20 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] The topic is VINTAGE AIRSTREAMS

There are lots of appropriate places for a post like this. The Vintage 
Airstram List is not one of them.

Best regards,

Rik

Re: [VAL] (fwd)  Identity thief nabs victims at Kinkos

schuetzen wrote:

>To: "ProAmericaGrassroots"
> <ProAmericaGrassroots@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>Subject: Identity thief nabs victims at Kinkos
>Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:43:50 -0400
> 
>Identity thief nabs victims at Kinko's: 
> 
> Case highlights risks of using public Internet
>terminals. The software is one of several keystroke
>loggers available for businesses and parents to
>monitor their employees and children.
> For more than a year, unbeknownst to people who used
>Internet terminals at Kinko's stores in New York, Juju
>Jiang was recording what they typed, paying particular
>attention to their passwords. Jiang had secretly 
>installed, in at least 14 Kinko's copy shops, software
>that logs individual keystrokes. He captured more than
>450 user names and passwords, and used them to access
>and open bank accounts online ... more here:
> 
> http://stacks.msnbc.com/news/943043.asp 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 06:22:52 EDT
From: CliffHort@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:Dometic Refrigerator

Charlie,
Thank you for that information. I'll check that out the first chance I get.
Cliff

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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 05:50:55 -0600 (MDT)
From: Karl Larsen <k5di@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: [VACList] Truck Tires?

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> Dave
> I have driven the same truck since new in 1988 and have put many different
> tires on it over the years.
> The Daytona tires actually lasted longer than either Goodyear or BF Goodrich.
> But about 4 years ago I broke down and bought a set of Michelin LTX M/S tires
> at the base gas station during a tire sale. Theses tires have now been on the
> truck twice as long as any other tire I ever tried.

	For 20 years over 3 vehicles I have run nothing but Michelin. At 
this moment my LTX M/S tires on my Dodge Durango have 45,000 miles on 
them and they look new. It's a 4x4 model and I tow my 76 Airstream into 
very wild country in New Mexico. The Durango is so tight I can hear my 
country western CD's at normal volume. 




 And they make my truck
> ride better and quiter, it's been amazing I can hear the radio without having
> the volume maxed out. When I bought them they cost me 124.00 per tire. I
> thought it was high since I was paying about 20 dollars less before for other
> brands. At Sears and other tire shops around town the Michelins are very high
> dollar. If you have a friend on a military base check with him and see if you
> can acquire some cheaper than what you have priced. They are worth the extra
> money though.
> Bobby
> 
> 
> Wrom: WCONEUQZAAF
> My Ford 1997 Ford F250 needs new tires. The truck is a 4x2 long bed,
> standard cab. The size is P255/70 R16. I tow a 1977 31'
> Sovereigm.
> What size, ply and "features" should I look for? I really dont want to
> spend $200 a tire, if I dont have to...
> Any help is appreciated...
> Dave
> 
> __
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> 
> 

- -- 
                      
               - Karl Larsen k5di Las Cruces,NM Az ScQRPions -

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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 07:07:02 -0500
From: cecilcopley@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Re: [VAL] Re: [VACList] Truck Tires?

I put 80,000 miles on my last set of Michelin 
tires on my 1995 conversion van with 150,000 
miles and still going.
Cecil
63 A/S Land Yacht that
was on around-the-world tour
WBCCI 8671

- -------------------------------------------------------------
Military.com: your address for everything military http://www.military.com  
Free email. Personnel Locator. Thousands of homepages for units, ships, squadrons, and more.

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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 08:15:26 -0400
From: "Robert L. Cornute" <ccornut1@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair referral sought

Try P&S Trailer Services in Helena, Ohio; Just south of Sandusky Ohio on US
route 6: We have just returned from there getting a re-plasticoating and
they do repairs on the exterior panels; not cheap but real good!  Bob
Cornute
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Webmaster" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair referral sought


> http://southjerseyrv.tripod.com/
> http://www.can-am-rv.com/
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
> '65 Caravel
> '56 Flying Cloud
>
>
>
> On 8/26/03 6:25 AM, "Deborah Bede" <stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
wrote:
>
> > Hello everyone:
>
> >
> > My first project is preventing water getting into the trailer, and I
need
> > some help with skin repairs.  Does anyone have any experience with a
repair
> > shop in Northern New England (or further afield) that they can
recommend?
> > (I'm in Central New Hampshire)  It looks like something (a tree?) fell
on
> > the top rear of the shell, denting at least 3 panels in the end cap.
> > They've been repaired, but badly and there's a large gap between two
panels.
> > I plan to do as much of the work on the Bubble as I can, but this looks
like
> > a job for someone with experience with older Airstreams because of the
> > curvature and the complicated seaming.
> > thanks for your help,
> > Deborah
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 07:37:08 -0500
From: dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights

I also had the same problem, they just looked too weak.
I was working at a truck shop when I found they now make some
NICE Stop and Tail lights with snap in brackets.  Nice and bright.
I bought 2 of them and mounted then on my bumper then wired them up
along with the original lights.
Now cars and trucks can see what I am doing.
OH,  Also while at that truck shop I also bought a pack of stick on
red and white reflector tape,  the kind they use on the side's of the 
big trucks.
I stick them on the back and sides of my AS so I can be seen at night 
better.

I have a 1970 27 foot AS
WBCCI  2486
Dean


On Sunday, September 14, 2003, at 05:27  PM, schuetzen wrote:

> I have a problem which I cannot seem to correct,
> My wife (SWMBO) is ticked at the weak output of the "red" lights on 
> the back of
> the Sovereign.  I have removed the covers, cleaned them (not needed), 
> cleaned
> the reflective surface (like new and not needed) and even changed the 
> light
> bulbs.  I have even gone so far as to change the '90 Suburban for a 
> 2002 Ford
> E350 Diesel puller.!
> That has not helped either.
>
> Where am I losing voltage er, current?

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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 11:18:29 -0500
From: Mike Keith <mkeith@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] The topic is VINTAGE AIRSTREAMS

I guess that it's on topic to castigate someone after they have apologized 
though?

Mike


At 10:00 PM 9/14/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>There are lots of appropriate places for a post like this. The Vintage 
>Airstram List is not one of them.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Rik

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 11:43:13 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] The topic is VINTAGE AIRSTREAMS

Come on folks,

Yes, it was an apology, so I think we can drop the matter and get back to
Airstreams.
There was a lot of unnecessary sniping just before the changeover to this
new VAL
list and I hope we can end it now, and discuss our trailers instead.

There have been suggestions to ban certain individuals, but I do hope that
it does not
become necessary to come to that point.  We are all here because of our
common interest,
and I would sure like to see us concentrate on that common interest.

To change the topic a little, I am investigating allowing the posting of
pictures on site
by members of the list, and hope to let you all know something about that
possibility soon.
Just think though, if we have trouble with words, just what can we do with
something like
pictures?  Scary, huh?

- -Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Keith" <mkeith@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] The topic is VINTAGE AIRSTREAMS


> I guess that it's on topic to castigate someone after they have apologized
> though?
>
> Mike
>
>
> At 10:00 PM 9/14/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >There are lots of appropriate places for a post like this. The Vintage
> >Airstram List is not one of them.
> >
> >Best regards,
> >
> >Rik
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 12:01:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <fitzjo1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Painting and Repairing Plastic (and woodwork)

I recently completed the same project.  I think Lexxy
gave a pretty complete summary.  Here are some
variations I had:

- -I used one-part polyurethane paint that is formulated
for use above the water line.  I paid about $25 for a
quart.  The "Hatteras White" seems to be an almost
perfect match for my bathtub--which is the only part I
didn't paint.

- -I applied it with a brush.  Foam brushes worked well
for me because you can toss them out when you're done,
but they don't shed bristles.  They do make little
bubbles.  But, I found that the paint leveled out
amazingly well.  There were no traces of bubbles or
brush strokes in the finished work.  In my opinion,
spraying is not necessary--but remember that this
advice is worth what you paid for it.

- -The stuff will run.  You may want to consider
painting only the portions that are lying flat.  This
will take 3 passes per coat on some parts.  But, it is
sure to give a good looking result.

- -The paint is pretty soft at first.  If you can stand
the wait, let the painted parts sit for a week or two.
 I put mine in the Airstream to "bake" in the daily
110 degree heat of the closed-off interior. 

I have been stripping the woodwork with a "water
soluble" stripper.  It takes a long time to evaporate,
which gives good working time but requires long waits
after stripping.  DO NOT rinse the wood with water--no
matter what the instructions suggest. I strongly
advise against sanding, because the veneer is really
thin.  I have been refinishing with Spar Urethane.  I
do recommend spraying it on--I just buy it in cans.
WOW! That black walnut looks truly amazing when it is
cleaned up!

Jon in SC
68 Overlander

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 15:13:41 -0400
From: <lindner.1@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Painting /adding style

9/14/2003 5:11:05 PM, Lynn Evans <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:

>we are trying a Japanese look....rice paper paneled shoji
>sliding and closet doors...

Fabulous!  At last someone who appreciates my style.  Interior pictures, _PLEASE_.

                 -- Lew #4239

'72 Safari
Custom Craft Megatow.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 16:18:28 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Painting and Repairing Plastic

"the plastic in my '73 is intact, but stained.  I really don't want to 
take the whole bathroom appart to paint them....

Is there another way ?

Daisy"

I have heard of folks hwo have redone them in place but they must have
heads bigger than our 3' square one!!!  I would try some solvents on the
stains if they were mine and get it off real fast to stop the action...I
know others wouldn't do it but I use them all the time as long as your
are really careful with the safety issues.  They are made to melt
plastics.  Fine sandpaper is another alternative....ever had acrylic
fingernails?  [I know few men have!!!]  It's real close to working with
plastics and fiberglass...about the same on a smaller scale.  See how
acetone softens them?  It can work on a tiny scale on plastic if your
are willing to take the risk....test a hidden place first.

Lexxy/aka/Lynn
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 16:26:08 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Painting /adding style

"Fabulous!  At last someone who appreciates my style.  Interior
pictures, _PLEASE_.

                 -- Lew #4239"

Believe me...I don't have a problem with humility!!!  When we finish
this thing I am dragging in strangers off the street to see it...I will
post pix all over and let you know.

Actually I also believe in helping others as much as I have been helped
and I'm trying to keep all I have learned posted to my site to
share....also with illustrations cuz if I can see it I can usually make
a stab at it but I have problems with wordy explanations....[for
real...it's dyslexia].  Any visual aids  really help. Sometimes I draw
things 10 times before I build them and then don't build them exactly
that way!!!

Lexxy/aka/Lynn
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 16:37:47 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: Painting and Repairing Plastic (and woodwork)

I agree about the brushing...I have touched up several places with the
brush...I just had the sprayer and 5 hp compressor Santa got me 3 years
ago so I used it and actually the paint still ran a bit!!!  We get the
strangest presents when we get old and into these projects!!!

Using the hot trailer to speed curing is a great idea...Like a kiln for
it!!!

I just HAD to change my color from the yellow and the ivory worked well
even with the faded yellow walls.



Lexxy/aka/Lynn
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/





I recently completed the same project.  I think Lexxy
gave a pretty complete summary.  Here are some
variations I had:

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 16:35:34 -0500
From: schuetzen <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:52:05 -0500, you wrote:

>
>or tow vehicle. There are test plugs made to test the tow vehicle
>circuits. I generally use a 12 volt 50 watt lamp (edison base) that I
>have screwed into a test box. That test box has a switched edison base
>lamp socket and a toggle switch. Then I brought out a pair of wires with
>alligator clips on the ends. The lamp draws more current than a tail
>light (but not so much as to harm the wiring) so it shows up poor
>connections where a sensitive voltmeter testing without significant
>current might not.

great discussion, will put it into my FAQ.  thanks 
chas

- --
Charles Hamilton, Houston, TX  chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net  www.schuetzen.net
'77 Sovereign, '02 E350 SD PSD, Pullrite+Prodigy
S*M*A*R*T, WBCCI/DC #1130, VAC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 22:41:37 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Weak Brake lights

"It may be necessary to break open the socket and plug to clean up the
terminals.

Charlie"

I have cleaned up my tail light wires like Dr G has mentioned and
attached the ground wire to a small bolt tightened to the skin and they
lit up like Christmas!!!  I also use the jelly stuff on the connections
to revitalize them after scrubbing with steel wool.  I had a few old
aluminum outlets that were iffy to non working and I did this and...lo
and behold...they came back to life!!! Copper and aluminum get cruddy
with time....but I'm preaching to the choir here...you folks know
that!!!

Lexxy/aka/Lynn
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #8
***********************


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