The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #79
VAL Digest Thursday, November 27 2003 Volume 01 : Number 079
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Re:suburban furnace
[VAL] Re:suburban furnace
[VAL] Re:suburban furnace
[VAL] Re:suburban furnace
[VAL] Re:suburban furnace
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #78
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #78
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 10:01:09 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:suburban furnace
In a message dated 11/25/2003 11:06:21 PM Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
I have a 1969 International. The original furnace is still, somewhat,
operational. I have installed a CO2 detection device.
The unit fan never shuts off. The pilot does stay lit. Once the
thermostat signals the furnace to shut down, the fan stays on. To get the
furnace to
fire back up I have to push the Reset plunger. When the Reset is complete the
furnace comes back on and we start all over again.
Does anyone know exactly what I am resetting? And can it be fixed to work
as it should, cycling by its self based on the thermostat?
Could the Thermostat be the problem?
As I know it the "plunger" is for the pilot safety feature!
You shouldn't need it for re-fire, If the pilot's lit unless it's stuck in
someway. It shouldn't make it re-fire. The fan will run until the furnace cools
down.
Sometime mine will not RE-LITE till after it follows through the cool down
cycle.
If I have time I will check my manual and re-post if necessary.
I'm sure there must be a limit switch some where.
That will control fan and flame at opposing limits.
AlanT
PHX AZ
74 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 10:03:15 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:suburban furnace
In a message dated 11/25/2003 11:06:21 PM Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
I have a 1969 International. The original furnace is still, somewhat,
operational. I have installed a CO2 detection device.
The unit fan never shuts off. The pilot does stay lit. Once the
thermostat signals the furnace to shut down, the fan stays on. To get the
furnace to
fire back up I have to push the Reset plunger. When the Reset is complete the
furnace comes back on and we start all over again.
Does anyone know exactly what I am resetting? And can it be fixed to work
as it should, cycling by its self based on the thermostat?
Could the Thermostat be the problem?
As I know it the "plunger" is for the pilot safety feature!
You shouldn't need it for re-fire, If the pilot's lit unless it's stuck in
someway. It shouldn't make it re-fire. The fan will run until the furnace cools
down.
Sometime mine will not RE-LITE till after it follows through the cool down
cycle.
If I have time I will check my manual and re-post if necessary.
I'm sure there must be a limit switch some where.
That will control fan and flame at opposing limits.
AlanT
PHX AZ
74 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 10:08:52 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:suburban furnace
In a message dated 11/25/2003 11:06:21 PM Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
I have a 1969 International. The original furnace is still, somewhat,
operational. I have installed a CO2 detection device.
The unit fan never shuts off. The pilot does stay lit. Once the
thermostat signals the furnace to shut down, the fan stays on. To get the
furnace to
fire back up I have to push the Reset plunger. When the Reset is complete the
furnace comes back on and we start all over again.
Does anyone know exactly what I am resetting? And can it be fixed to work
as it should, cycling by its self based on the thermostat?
Could the Thermostat be the problem?
As I know it the "plunger" is for the pilot safety feature!
You shouldn't need it for re-fire, If the pilot's lit unless it's stuck in
someway. It shouldn't make it re-fire. The fan will run until the furnace cools
down.
Sometime mine will not RE-LITE till after it follows through the cool down
cycle.
If I have time I will check my manual and re-post if necessary.
I'm sure there must be a limit switch some where.
That will control fan and flame at opposing limits.
AlanT
PHX AZ
74 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 10:10:10 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:suburban furnace
In a message dated 11/25/2003 11:06:21 PM Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
I have a 1969 International. The original furnace is still, somewhat,
operational. I have installed a CO2 detection device.
The unit fan never shuts off. The pilot does stay lit. Once the
thermostat signals the furnace to shut down, the fan stays on. To get the
furnace to
fire back up I have to push the Reset plunger. When the Reset is complete the
furnace comes back on and we start all over again.
Does anyone know exactly what I am resetting? And can it be fixed to work
as it should, cycling by its self based on the thermostat?
Could the Thermostat be the problem?
As I know it the "plunger" is for the pilot safety feature!
You shouldn't need it for re-fire, If the pilot's lit unless it's stuck in
someway. It shouldn't make it re-fire. The fan will run until the furnace cools
down.
Sometime mine will not RE-LITE till after it follows through the cool down
cycle.
If I have time I will check my manual and re-post if necessary.
I'm sure there must be a limit switch some where.
That will control fan and flame at opposing limits.
AlanT
PHX AZ
74 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 10:23:05 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:suburban furnace
In a message dated 11/25/2003 11:06:21 PM Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
I have a 1969 International. The original furnace is still, somewhat,
operational. I have installed a CO2 detection device.
The unit fan never shuts off. The pilot does stay lit. Once the
thermostat signals the furnace to shut down, the fan stays on. To get the
furnace to
fire back up I have to push the Reset plunger. When the Reset is complete the
furnace comes back on and we start all over again.
Does anyone know exactly what I am resetting? And can it be fixed to work
as it should, cycling by its self based on the thermostat?
Could the Thermostat be the problem?
As I know it the "plunger" is for the pilot safety feature!
You shouldn't need it for re-fire, If the pilot's lit unless it's stuck in
someway. It shouldn't make it re-fire. The fan will run until the furnace cools
down.
Sometime mine will not RE-LITE till after it follows through the cool down
cycle.
If I have time I will check my manual and re-post if necessary.
I'm sure there must be a limit switch some where.
That will control fan and flame at opposing limits.
AlanT
PHX AZ
74 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 13:21:45 -0600
From: "Faith Navarro" <Beshway1@MC2K.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #78
ANTI-FREEZE
I know that this will probably sound so ignorant and like a waste of space
but I have never had the job of maintenance left up to me so need some help.
I have prodded my husband when we were at Wal Mart to show me what kind of
Anti-freeze we need for our '74 A/S and when I went to the marine section,
he said that it wasn't the right kind so I need some advice on that.
Also, we haven't hooked our A/S up to water except to check for leaks and
everything was OK
but I have just used water out of a container and made coffee out in the
yard where it is parked and may have poured some down the toilet once. We
have it heated inside with a small radiation heater but I imagine the pipes
still need to have some protection.
Could you please tell me the type to use, how much, and where to put it in
at? It is so lovely and
eventually, I'm going to get to go camping, God willing.
Faith Navarro
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "VAL Digest" <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 12:00 AM
Subject: VAL Digest V1 #78
>
> VAL Digest Wednesday, November 26 2003 Volume 01 : Number
078
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> Topics in Today's Digest:
>
> [VAL] Vintage Advantage Subscriptions
> RE: [VAL] Re:Gate valve and black water tank
> Re: [VAL] More road worthiness questions
> Re: [VAL] More road worthiness questions
> Re: [VAL] More road worthiness questions
> RE: [VAL] Fridges
> RE: [VAL] !@#$><&*^% tires for 63 single axle
> Re: [VAL] More road worthiness questions
> [VAL] Re: [VAL tires for 63 single axle
> [VAL] Re: VAL Digest
> [VAL] Suburban Furnace, Dyna Trail
> RE: [VAL] winter battery storage
> Re: [VAL] winter battery storage Suggestion
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 08:39:28 -0500
> From: "Jim Wallace \(Wally\)" <maltnhops@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Vintage Advantage Subscriptions
>
> Well, I guess I will come out of lurk mode to give my two cents on the
whole
> Vintage Advantage subject.
>
> I, too, thought perhaps my membership had lapsed in error because I had
not
> received my Vintage advantage since last spring. The problem I see is
that
> the Vintage Advantage is supposed to be a quarterly publication, but I
have
> not received it quarterly. I receive it intermittently.
>
> Since my membership started last December, I have received three issues.
>
> Volume 9
> Q3, 2002
> Issue #3
>
> Volume 9
> Q4(1), 2003
> Issue #4
>
> Volume 10
> Q2, 2003
> Issue #2
>
> Aside from this being a somewhat inconsistent way of numbering (where is
Issue
> #1 from 2003?), I just can't figure out why I haven't received an issue in
so
> long.
>
> Has there been an issue since the last one I listed? If so, someone
please
> let me know so I can request my copy.
>
> I suppose once I receive this next issue, I will have received four issues
in
> a year's time, but I would hardly call it quarterly.
>
> I wouldn't complain, but I actually look forward to receiving the Vintage
> Advantage. If only the Blue Beret was as interesting, informative or
useful.
> It looks good in my waste basket.
>
> Back to lurking...
>
> Wally
> WBCCI 23618
> VAC
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 08:19:07 -0700
> From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Re:Gate valve and black water tank
>
> Stuart and Bonnie,
>
> I just did the same on my 67 TW. My toilet flange is rusted out also,
> and I haven't given much thought to its replacement yet. I had a new
> sheet metal box fabricated along with new angle iron rails. The
> Thetford gate is ok, but needs new seals. There are four screw studs
> that hold the gate valve to a flange on the tank. I noticed that the
> plastic flange is cracked around each of these studs. I will reinforce
> it with epoxy, but it can't be replaced. I'm going to paint the pan,
> rails, frame that I can reach with POR15 before putting it all back
> together.
>
> What are you referring to when saying a nozzle can be attached to the
> back of the tank? Am I missing a trick here?
>
> Don't think I had any vermin in the heat ducts, but I'm impressed with
> the tank heating that A/S designed in.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
>
> jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> > On Behalf Of RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 9:43 PM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] Re:Gate valve and black water tank
> >
> > Hello'
> > I pulled out our sewage tank from under our '65 Airstream Trade Wind
> Twin
> > 24'
> > this weekend. The tank is in good shape and not leaking or broken. The
> > cast
> > iron connection for the toilet is rusted to oblivion. How can that be
> > repaired?
> > Is there a new tank kit to replace the whole thing? How important is
> it to
> > split the tank into grey and black water? Did everyone know that the
> heat
> > duct
> > to the rear floor heater vent continues back into the box that holds
> the
> > waste
> > water tank in place? That was an entry point for vermin into our rig
> and
> > cleaning their residue out of that duct was tricky! Now that that's
> clean
> > and the
> > tank is out...suddenly the back of the rig no longer smells!
> > J.R. at Sonrise RV in Escondido, Ca told me that, yes, a nozzel can be
> > attached to the back of your tanks to facilitate flushing out the tank
> > when it's
> > time to drain them. Now we won't need warm black water in our tank
> when we
> > travel! We think this nozzel idea will help greatly when the rig is
> > stationary for a
> > long time but in use. We're determined to have a clean rig all over
> and
> > under.
> > Thanks, Stuart and Bonnie
> >
> > Resor Architect, 1268 Blue Sky Drive, Cardiff By The Sea, California
> > 92007-1005, 760-753-8022. Fax: 760-753-8058. RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Or: "Desert Star Ranch" 2299 Borrego Valley Road, (Mail: PO box 1983),
> > Borrego Springs, Ca. 92004. 760-525-0076 cell. DESERTSTARANCH@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
> text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 09:04:05 -0800
> From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] More road worthiness questions
>
> > In the 7 pin connector, there is:
> > Charging line.
> > Ground.
> > Running lights.
> > Backup light.
> > Left Turn/stop.
> > Right Turn/stop.
> > Maybe the other is called auxiliary. I forget that detail. Dont have my
> reference materials. An internet search for Bargman 7 pin connector should
> turn up those details.
>
> Hey Dr J:
>
> It's the electric brake feed. Other than that you seem to have them all.
>
> GQ '67 Safari
> 4082 in CA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 10:37:52 -0700
> From: Ivan <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] More road worthiness questions
>
> Hi,
>
> I'll probably go with the prodigy brake controller, but what about
> breakaway kits? My 26' trailer doesn't have an on board battery right
now,
> so I guess I have to get a self contained unit. Any suggestions??
>
> Thanks again!
>
> - -Ivan
>
>
>
>
> On 11/24/03 9:41 PM, "Brad Norgaard" <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
>
> > Hi Ivan - I have a copy of the wiring diagram for the Bargeman 7 pin
> > connector that Gerald J. referred to. Email me off list if you would
like it
> > sent to you.
> >
> > As far as the brake controller goes, I have a Prodigy and have been very
> > happy with it. Mind you, I have never towed before so that is my one and
> > only benchmark. I still love it nonetheless and feel confident in
referring
> > it to anyone.
> >
> > FF
> >
> >>> Hi again,
> >>>
> >>> Well I was able to drop the belly pan on our 55 and the wires all
> >>> look good. I noticed on the tow vehicle that there is a connecter
with 6
> >>> pins it it and I wondered exactly what they are. Looks like running
lights
> >>> account for one cable, break lights are two (left and right), the
tandem
> >>> axle breaks seems to be two lines that connect to one, but I don't
know how
> >>> to test that. What would the other two lines be?
> >>>
> >>> Also I need to purchase both a good break controller and a breakaway
> >>> kit. Any recommendations on models and places to purchase them?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> -Ivan
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 11:44:33 -0600
> From: "Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.isunet.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] More road worthiness questions
>
> Duhh!! Mea culpa.
>
> Gerald J.
>
>
> - ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 09:04:05 -0800
>
> >> In the 7 pin connector, there is:
> >> Charging line.
> >> Ground.
> >> Running lights.
> >> Backup light.
> >> Left Turn/stop.
> >> Right Turn/stop.
> >> Maybe the other is called auxiliary. I forget that detail. Dont have my
> >reference materials. An internet search for Bargman 7 pin connector
should
> >turn up those details.
> >
> >Hey Dr J:
> >
> >It's the electric brake feed. Other than that you seem to have them all.
> >
> >GQ '67 Safari
> >4082 in CA
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 09:49:59 -0800
> From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Fridges
>
> I think Craig uses new refrigerators and adapts old doors and hardware
> on his high-end custom remodels.
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> > Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 3:41 PM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] Fridges
>
> > I have just found out I have to replace the Dometic Fridge in
> > our Tradewind.
> > Any idea where I can get a retro looking RV Fridge? There is
> > a particullarly
> > good example of what I'm looking for at Vintage Vacations (
> > http://www.vintage-vacations.com/61airstream_2.htm ).
> >
> > Ruth Warren
> > 1961 Tradewind
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 10:14:43 -0800
> From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: RE: [VAL] !@#$><&*^% tires for 63 single axle
>
> It is for that reason most everyone stays with the 8ply 7.00x15 LT's.
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
>
> > What brand /size tire is everyone using on 63 safari
> > flying cloud 22ft
> > trailers ? I`d like to stay with st radials if I can -
> > although I dont like the
> > losing 2+ inches ground clearance as the radials are 4 inches
> > less in diameter .
> >
> > Chris 63 flying cloud
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 13:42:29 -0600
> From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] More road worthiness questions
>
> If you are going to be fixing your unit up over the next
> few months I would not worry about a Break-Away
> control temp battery for now.
> Over half on the road don't work anyway. Save your money
> on a temp job and do it right when you add your battery.
> Dean
>
>
> On Nov 25, 2003, at 11:37 AM, Ivan wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'll probably go with the prodigy brake controller, but what about
> breakaway kits? My 26' trailer doesn't have an on board battery right
> now,
> so I guess I have to get a self contained unit. Any suggestions??
>
> Thanks again!
>
> - -Ivan
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 16:32:35 -0500
> From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Re: [VAL tires for 63 single axle
>
> once again , I gotta ask first , then buy ! I got em in (the 225/75
R15
> ), and I got enough clearance to get out my road - which is as bad as any
> I`ll ever go down ! But I wish I had gotten the truck tires for the extra
> clearance... but I dont see them going in any easier tho , at least the
> brand which it had . Guess I`ll be happy the center of gravity is lower !
> still cant find anyone around here into spraying my zolotone inside
> (gee I cant imagine why ) might have to do it myself - heck , I`ve already
> got ( had ??) cancer ! Well....maybe I`ll keep looking for a hungry
bodyman
> ....
> bucked the last of my rivets around the door today , seemed like the
> old ones were 1/8 with a big head like 5/32 - I just drilled them to 5/32
> and used those.
> Chris
>
> RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
> > It is for that reason most everyone stays with the 8ply 7.00x15 LT's.
> > Best of luck,
> > RJ
> > VintageAirstream.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 17:23:46 -0500
> From: "David Turner" <david@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest
>
> Hello:
>
> I am looking seriously into purchasing a 1981 Excella 28' Airstream Motor
> Home .Any idea of prices of value for this model/year.
> Could any of you give me some pointers of what to look for?What are some
> things that I need to know?
> I need help to make a decision on this purchase.
> Thanks for any info and prices.
> David
> jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 19:35:30 EST
> From: Hugheym@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Suburban Furnace, Dyna Trail
>
> Hello to all,
>
> Happy Thanksgiving!
>
> I have a 1969 International. The original furnace is still, somewhat,
> operational. I have installed a CO2 detection device.
> The unit fan never shuts off. The pilot does stay lit. Once the
> thermostat signals the furnace to shut down, the fan stays on. To get the
furnace to
> fire back up I have to push the Reset plunger. When the Reset is complete
the
> furnace comes back on and we start all over again.
>
> Does anyone know exactly what I am resetting? And can it be fixed to
work
> as it should, cycling by its self based on the thermostat?
>
> Could the Thermostat be the problem?
>
> Thanks for the insight.
>
> Martin and Rachel Hughey
> WBCCI 10212, Vintage A/S
> 1969 International and 1961 Bambi
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 22:12:14 -0500
> From: "Robert Cornute" <ccornut1@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] winter battery storage
>
> A fully charged Battery will not freeze! The Uni-volt should prevent
> over charging, however, I would do a periodical check of the water level
> in the battery to make sure the battery is not being over charged. Bob
> Cornute WBCCI 4953
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Joe Winkler
> Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 3:56 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] winter battery storage
>
> A question for the group. Living in warm and delightful Wyoming causes
> me to wonder if I should remove my battery for the winter. It has
> already gotten down to 17 below here, I am sure that even colder weather
> is in our future. Will it do the trailer any harm if I plug it in to 120
> when there is no battery?
> Joe
>
> __________________________________________________________________
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> - -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 20:09:12 -0800
> From: "Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] winter battery storage Suggestion
>
> You might want to consider buying an Intellisync/Charge Wizard and setting
> it up in your garage as a battery charger to maintain your battery(s)
> removed from your Airstream.
>
> This charger setup will not overcharge the battery, even if left on all
the
> time. Overcharging is a real problem with the "Maintenance Free"
batteries,
> since it is virtually impossible to replace boiled off electrolyte (caused
> by over charging)..
>
> Progressive Dynamics sells refurbished/rebuilt converters at discounted
> prices, so the cost is modest. Also, a small model (low amp) is more than
> adequate for this use. [Or you can buy a bigger one for eventual
> installation in your trailer. A 40 amp unit is fine for either use.]
>
> Oliver Filippi
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Cornute" <ccornut1@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 7:12 PM
> Subject: RE: [VAL] winter battery storage
>
>
> > A fully charged Battery will not freeze! The Uni-volt should prevent
> > over charging, however, I would do a periodical check of the water level
> > in the battery to make sure the battery is not being over charged. Bob
> > Cornute WBCCI 4953
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Joe Winkler
> > Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 3:56 PM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] winter battery storage
> >
> > A question for the group. Living in warm and delightful Wyoming causes
> > me to wonder if I should remove my battery for the winter. It has
> > already gotten down to 17 below here, I am sure that even colder weather
> > is in our future. Will it do the trailer any harm if I plug it in to 120
> > when there is no battery?
> > Joe
> >
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Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 15:28:56 -0500
From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #78
Faith,
The anti-freeze you will be looking for is propylene glycol based,
normally labeled as "RV Anti-Freeze" or even possibly "potable". The
colour will be a distinct pink. Normal automotive anti-freeze is
ethylene glycol based and may be greenish yellow or blue. This stuff is
poison and not for your fresh water system. This is the stuff that your
pets will lap up greedily and then keel over from.
If you hooked up to check for leaks you will have water laying in the
low spots of the plumbing, and winterizing is a must. First step is to
locate the drains and open them all. Leave the tank drains open and
close the tank to pump valve. Don't forget the drain on the water heater.
I personally prefer blowing air through the lines, as the anti-freeze
leaves a taste that lasts all summer to me. FWIW. Also I have a 10
gallon water heater that is shoe horned into a spot where adding a
by-pass is not an option. That's a lot of empty space to fill with
expensive stuff just for funny tasting water next spring.
If you go the anti-freeze route it is necessary to take the suction side
of the pump off the holding tank line and insert a hose from the pump
into the bottle of anti-freeze. Turn on the pump and work your way to
the furthest tap and let it run until pink comes out. Then do the same
thing with each tap working your way back toward the pump. This
includes the toilet, and the toilet spray washer. Again, if there is no
bypass on your water heater (there wasn't when the trailer was built) it
will take 6 or 10 gallons just to fill that (depending on the size of
the heater). Not cheap. Figure on salvaging it in the spring from the
piping drain.
If you have an air compressor available and need direction for the
"blowdown" method, let us know.
Matt
Faith Navarro wrote:
> ANTI-FREEZE
> <snip>I need some advice on that.
> Also, we haven't hooked our A/S up to water except to check for leaks and
> everything was OK
> but I have just used water out of a container and made coffee out in the
> yard where it is parked and may have poured some down the toilet once. We
> have it heated inside with a small radiation heater but I imagine the pipes
> still need to have some protection.
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #79
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