The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #73
VAL Digest Friday, November 21 2003 Volume 01 : Number 073
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind - rv designer collection
Re: [VAL] Interior bits and bobs.
Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Interior bits and bobs.
[VAL] 1956 Caravanner
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #71 - Drill out rivets; wiring labeling; brake groun ding?; Brake circuit breaker
Re: [VAL] Interior bits and bobs Curtain rod
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #67 - All electric?
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
RE: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
[VAL] Off Topic a Bit - Tow vehicule - Diesel?
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #71 - Drill out rivets; wiring labeling; brake groun ding?; Brake circuit breaker
Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Fall Vintage Advantage
Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Off Topic a Bit - Tow vehicule - Diesel?
Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
RE: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Re: [VAL] Off Topic a Bit - Tow vehicule - Diesel?
Re: [VAL] Fall Vintage Advantage
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 08:24:22 EST
From: MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Hi Ruth!
I am so excited to hear that you also have a 1961 model as well! We got a
1961 Safari last August--and we're fairly close by, in Vienna, VA, so I think
we're going to have to get together!
I have also seen tent style awnings for sale online--and very cheap. I'll
have to check my links and email you it later. I think the attraction of the
zip-dee ones is that they are easier to set up and store--they are spring loaded
and self-retractable. OTOH, tent ones must be stored inside, so set up
involves attaching them, setting up the poles, staking etc. Not bad--and certainly
much cheaper--but lots of folks don't like the bother, especially on hot days
where the awnings are almost necessities (to stop the sun from coming in
through the windows). But darn, those zipdees cost a minor fortune (as I recall,
the tent-style one was about $200).
I am also trying to deal with the shower curtain issue. I think this
particular shower curtain configuration may be unique to a very short release of
models (perhaps only 1961s), because I have asked around for a similar question
and nobody could effectively address it. What I did find out is that generic rv
shops do sell curtain tracks that can be bent to fit, though perhaps with
difficulty. These are fairly inexpensive, though I don't know if they will work
effectively. Our track is still in decent shape, it just doesn't have any
sliders in it--and I can't find any sliders that work with it. One of my more
creatively oriented girlfriends recently had what may be a genius idea that I
haven't tested--taking plastic modeling clay (like fimo--the stuff you shape,
then bake in the oven) and shaping custom sliders. So, I'm going to try to do
that first.
As for the couch vs. dinette option, as a "DINK" (double income no kids)
couple with few extra sleeping requirements, we considered also making a
conversion, too. However, after speaking with lots of RV owners, the one thing we kept
on hearing was that a couch was more convenient--that dinettes are difficult
to get in and out of, that a couch is easier for entertaining. So, I found
some retro looking tv trays at the Container Store and we'd figure we'd try
living with the couch configuration for a while. During the hurricane, we ended up
pretty much living out of our toaster--and we ended up figuring that it
wasn't worth the bother to change (plus it gives us more space stow the nephews
when we drag them along). That said, I have seen pretty decent online
instructions for cutting the couch up into a dinette setup. You end up sacrificing a
bit of floor space and the result is a twin instead of double bed, but the
results look really nice: http://www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/
(click "during" then "dinette").
I'm having a fun time trying to return the unit to a kind of fantasy version
of its original appearance. I've been scouring events like the Big Flea and
online for Ike era (or maybe early Richard Nixon age!) kitch--very fun!
We recently bought new foam, because the old ones were originals--smelly and
crumbling apart. That was quite expensive too! Now I'm making covers, which
is easy but very tedious. After hearing about the great construction values
of airstreams, I was rather shocked to see how poorly the original cushion
covers were made. Pattern cutting was exceptionally amateurish, the pieces were
sloppily stapled (one glued with contact cement, argh) to the wood base instead
of sewn (so the covers could never be removed and cleaned). I'm making mine
from turquoise canvas (bought from the $2.88 table at G Street Fabrics!) with
pockets for the wood pieces, welts, zippers and buttons to attach the
connected cushions (so you can remove them without having two connected cushions. To
those who painstakingly unpiece their covers, I say don't bother. It's easier
to make a new pattern by laying the new foam on yardage, tracing it with a
fabric marker, then cutting it out (leaving extra space for seam allowance, of
course). Maybe if I get the hang of web design, I'll make a tutorial, since
it's so darn easy. Again, it's exceptionally tedious work, but it should keep
me busy through the winter! The nice thing is that I know the result will be
better than what was there in the first place.
Well, better get myself to work, so bye for now!
Mary Dotson
1961 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 09:16:51 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Mary, there is a company called RV Designer Collection that either makes or
sells RV curtain hardware of every conceivable sort for OEMs. I'll bet they
have the rollers that will fit in the shower curtain track on your '61
Safari. They are out of Rustburg, VA wherever that is. Last time I checked,
I couldn't find a web site but they have a toll free number -- (800)
938-5883. See if they have the parts you need for your shower curtain.
Goop luck.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Cc: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 8:24 AM
Subject: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
> Hi Ruth!
>
> I am so excited to hear that you also have a 1961 model as well! We got a
> 1961 Safari last August--and we're fairly close by, in Vienna, VA, so I
think
> we're going to have to get together!
>
> I have also seen tent style awnings for sale online--and very cheap. I'll
> have to check my links and email you it later. I think the attraction of
the
> zip-dee ones is that they are easier to set up and store--they are spring
loaded
> and self-retractable. OTOH, tent ones must be stored inside, so set up
> involves attaching them, setting up the poles, staking etc. Not bad--and
certainly
> much cheaper--but lots of folks don't like the bother, especially on hot
days
> where the awnings are almost necessities (to stop the sun from coming in
> through the windows). But darn, those zipdees cost a minor fortune (as I
recall,
> the tent-style one was about $200).
>
> I am also trying to deal with the shower curtain issue. I think this
> particular shower curtain configuration may be unique to a very short
release of
> models (perhaps only 1961s), because I have asked around for a similar
question
> and nobody could effectively address it. What I did find out is that
generic rv
> shops do sell curtain tracks that can be bent to fit, though perhaps with
> difficulty. These are fairly inexpensive, though I don't know if they
will work
> effectively. Our track is still in decent shape, it just doesn't have any
> sliders in it--and I can't find any sliders that work with it. One of my
more
> creatively oriented girlfriends recently had what may be a genius idea
that I
> haven't tested--taking plastic modeling clay (like fimo--the stuff you
shape,
> then bake in the oven) and shaping custom sliders. So, I'm going to try
to do
> that first.
>
> As for the couch vs. dinette option, as a "DINK" (double income no kids)
> couple with few extra sleeping requirements, we considered also making a
> conversion, too. However, after speaking with lots of RV owners, the one
thing we kept
> on hearing was that a couch was more convenient--that dinettes are
difficult
> to get in and out of, that a couch is easier for entertaining. So, I
found
> some retro looking tv trays at the Container Store and we'd figure we'd
try
> living with the couch configuration for a while. During the hurricane, we
ended up
> pretty much living out of our toaster--and we ended up figuring that it
> wasn't worth the bother to change (plus it gives us more space stow the
nephews
> when we drag them along). That said, I have seen pretty decent online
> instructions for cutting the couch up into a dinette setup. You end up
sacrificing a
> bit of floor space and the result is a twin instead of double bed, but the
> results look really nice: http://www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/ (click "during" > then "dinette").
>
> I'm having a fun time trying to return the unit to a kind of fantasy
version
> of its original appearance. I've been scouring events like the Big Flea
and
> online for Ike era (or maybe early Richard Nixon age!) kitch--very fun!
>
> We recently bought new foam, because the old ones were originals--smelly
and
> crumbling apart. That was quite expensive too! Now I'm making covers,
which
> is easy but very tedious. After hearing about the great construction
values
> of airstreams, I was rather shocked to see how poorly the original cushion
> covers were made. Pattern cutting was exceptionally amateurish, the
pieces were
> sloppily stapled (one glued with contact cement, argh) to the wood base
instead
> of sewn (so the covers could never be removed and cleaned). I'm making
mine
> from turquoise canvas (bought from the $2.88 table at G Street Fabrics!)
with
> pockets for the wood pieces, welts, zippers and buttons to attach the
> connected cushions (so you can remove them without having two connected
cushions. To
> those who painstakingly unpiece their covers, I say don't bother. It's
easier
> to make a new pattern by laying the new foam on yardage, tracing it with a
> fabric marker, then cutting it out (leaving extra space for seam
allowance, of
> course). Maybe if I get the hang of web design, I'll make a tutorial,
since
> it's so darn easy. Again, it's exceptionally tedious work, but it should
keep
> me busy through the winter! The nice thing is that I know the result will
be
> better than what was there in the first place.
>
> Well, better get myself to work, so bye for now!
>
> Mary Dotson
> 1961 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 08:27:04 -0600
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Talk to a good Airstream dealer first... A good parts man can save you a
lot of tribulation....
When all else fails, I call Charlie Burke at American Way... 1-800-345-6651
Jim
At 07:24 AM 11/20/2003, you wrote:
>I am also trying to deal with the shower curtain issue. I think this
>particular shower curtain configuration may be unique to a very short
>release of
>models (perhaps only 1961s), because I have asked around for a similar
>question
>and nobody could effectively address it. What I did find out is that
>generic rv
>shops do sell curtain tracks that can be bent to fit, though perhaps with
>difficulty. These are fairly inexpensive, though I don't know if they
>will work
>effectively. Our track is still in decent shape, it just doesn't have any
>sliders in it--and I can't find any sliders that work with it. One of my
>more
>creatively oriented girlfriends recently had what may be a genius idea that I
>haven't tested--taking plastic modeling clay (like fimo--the stuff you shape,
>then bake in the oven) and shaping custom sliders. So, I'm going to try
>to do
>that first.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 06:41:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind - rv designer collection
a quick search turned up this:
http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/rv-designer-collection-displays.html
- --- Jim Greene <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> Mary, there is a company called RV Designer
> Collection that either makes or
> sells RV curtain hardware of every conceivable sort
> for OEMs. I'll bet they
> have the rollers that will fit in the shower curtain
> track on your '61
> Safari. They are out of Rustburg, VA wherever that
> is. Last time I checked,
> I couldn't find a web site but they have a toll free
> number -- (800)
> 938-5883. See if they have the parts you need for
> your shower curtain.
>
> Goop luck.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Cc: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 8:24 AM
> Subject: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
>
>
> > Hi Ruth!
> >
> > I am so excited to hear that you also have a 1961
> model as well! We got a
> > 1961 Safari last August--and we're fairly close
> by, in Vienna, VA, so I
> think
> > we're going to have to get together!
> >
> > I have also seen tent style awnings for sale
> online--and very cheap. I'll
> > have to check my links and email you it later. I
> think the attraction of
> the
> > zip-dee ones is that they are easier to set up and
> store--they are spring
> loaded
> > and self-retractable. OTOH, tent ones must be
> stored inside, so set up
> > involves attaching them, setting up the poles,
> staking etc. Not bad--and
> certainly
> > much cheaper--but lots of folks don't like the
> bother, especially on hot
> days
> > where the awnings are almost necessities (to stop
> the sun from coming in
> > through the windows). But darn, those zipdees cost
> a minor fortune (as I
> recall,
> > the tent-style one was about $200).
> >
> > I am also trying to deal with the shower curtain
> issue. I think this
> > particular shower curtain configuration may be
> unique to a very short
> release of
> > models (perhaps only 1961s), because I have asked
> around for a similar
> question
> > and nobody could effectively address it. What I
> did find out is that
> generic rv
> > shops do sell curtain tracks that can be bent to
> fit, though perhaps with
> > difficulty. These are fairly inexpensive, though
> I don't know if they
> will work
> > effectively. Our track is still in decent shape,
> it just doesn't have any
> > sliders in it--and I can't find any sliders that
> work with it. One of my
> more
> > creatively oriented girlfriends recently had what
> may be a genius idea
> that I
> > haven't tested--taking plastic modeling clay (like
> fimo--the stuff you
> shape,
> > then bake in the oven) and shaping custom sliders.
> So, I'm going to try
> to do
> > that first.
> >
> > As for the couch vs. dinette option, as a "DINK"
> (double income no kids)
> > couple with few extra sleeping requirements, we
> considered also making a
> > conversion, too. However, after speaking with
> lots of RV owners, the one
> thing we kept
> > on hearing was that a couch was more
> convenient--that dinettes are
> difficult
> > to get in and out of, that a couch is easier for
> entertaining. So, I
> found
> > some retro looking tv trays at the Container Store
> and we'd figure we'd
> try
> > living with the couch configuration for a while.
> During the hurricane, we
> ended up
> > pretty much living out of our toaster--and we
> ended up figuring that it
> > wasn't worth the bother to change (plus it gives
> us more space stow the
> nephews
> > when we drag them along). That said, I have seen
> pretty decent online
> > instructions for cutting the couch up into a
> dinette setup. You end up
> sacrificing a
> > bit of floor space and the result is a twin
> instead of double bed, but the
> > results look really nice:
> http://www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/
> (click "during" then "dinette").
> >
> > I'm having a fun time trying to return the unit to
> a kind of fantasy
> version
> > of its original appearance. I've been scouring
> events like the Big Flea
> and
> > online for Ike era (or maybe early Richard Nixon
> age!) kitch--very fun!
> >
> > We recently bought new foam, because the old ones
> were originals--smelly
> and
> > crumbling apart. That was quite expensive too!
> Now I'm making covers,
> which
> > is easy but very tedious. After hearing about the
> great construction
> values
> > of airstreams, I was rather shocked to see how
> poorly the original cushion
> > covers were made. Pattern cutting was
> exceptionally amateurish, the
> pieces were
> > sloppily stapled (one glued with contact cement,
> argh) to the wood base
> instead
> > of sewn (so the covers could never be removed and
> cleaned). I'm making
> mine
> > from turquoise canvas (bought from the $2.88 table
> at G Street Fabrics!)
> with
> > pockets for the wood pieces, welts, zippers and
> buttons to attach the
> > connected cushions (so you can remove them without
> having two connected
> cushions. To
> > those who painstakingly unpiece their covers, I
> say don't bother. It's
> easier
> > to make a new pattern by laying the new foam on
> yardage, tracing it with a
> > fabric marker, then cutting it out (leaving extra
> space for seam
> allowance, of
> > course). Maybe if I get the hang of web design,
> I'll make a tutorial,
> since
> > it's so darn easy. Again, it's exceptionally
> tedious work, but it should
> keep
> > me busy through the winter! The nice thing is
> that I know the result will
> be
> > better than what was there in the first place.
> >
> > Well, better get myself to work, so bye for now!
> >
> > Mary Dotson
> > 1961 Safari
>
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
> go to
>
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>
__________________________________
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Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 10:08:56 -0600
From: "William Durkee" <bdkli@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Interior bits and bobs.
I am sending a link to a company in UK that may just have a curtain rail
that might work with the curve of the trailer. Let me know what you think.
I am sure there will be someone who handles this product in the US.
http://www.jendico.co.uk/frmFrames/frmContourail.htm
Bill Durkee
1969 Sovereign
03 Ram 1500 Quad
>From: "nickruthwarren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>Can any one tell me where I might lay my hand on a new shower curtain rail,
>the curved one that follows the line of the ceiling curve?
>Ruth Warren,
>1961 Tradewind in Frederick, MD.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Need a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline? The classic country stars are
always singing on MSN Radio Plus. Try one month free!
http://join.msn.com/?page=offers/premiumradio
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 10:07:59 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
I just checked my '68 Caravel shower curtain. Its something I need. It
shows signs of having been through a fire. It has some snaps at the
ends. The sliders are small and were bonded to the plastic curtain.
Small conical heads. Maybe smaller than those for the curtains, though I
didn't check that. The shower curtain itself is rounded on top. Later
(in a week or two after I complete some traveling) I could supply a
photo with a scale for reference.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 09:27:13 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Interior bits and bobs.
Here is the URL for a sales rep that handles Contourail, the bendable shower
curtain rail:
http://www.alco-sales.com/sra/jrassoc.html
Might be worth giving him a call.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 12:24:54 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
With the shell back on the new floor (YAY) my wife and I are trying to come to some
agreement on a new layout. Our 1956 Caravaneer existing layout is not exactly what
we want.
Q: Layouts: Does anyone have any unique or at least some varieties of how airstream
laid out 22 ft units?
Q: New Grey, Black & Fresh Water tanks: Any recommendations on where to get
new tanks, as well as what specifications (as far a weight) is recommended for this
light frame? We were thinking of putting the blackwater tank on the floor (like
our76) and putting the grey and fresh water below (near the axle).
Q: I will be stripping off the original and additional coat of paint from the interior
skin. Any recommendation of what to use to strip off the layers of paint?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
Kevin & Valerie Chop
#5585
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:30:07 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #71 - Drill out rivets; wiring labeling; brake groun ding?;
Brake circuit breaker
1. How do I remove rivets without damaging the skin?
2. What rivets should I use to reattach everything?
Removing rivets is a simple task. Use an 1/8" drill bit and when ready,
replace with the same size aluminum pop rivet on the belly pay. If replacing where it will show,
use Olympic rivets from several sources including AirstreamDreams or Inland RV. Don't get the ones
with the neoprene washers.
Use Vulkem instead.
First timers can use an automatic center punch
(http://vintageairstream.com/rr_topics_suppliers.html#tools)
later with experience you'll just put the bit on the rivet head and go.
Use a #22 bit on the bucked rivets and #30 on the pop rivets.
AL - To drill without centerpunching, use split point ("aircraft") bits. They do not "walk" if held
fairly square with the surface.
Good steel propane tanks can have new valves cheaper than new tanks,
sometimes requires an inspection. If a long time since their last
inspection stamp may require a hydrostatic leak test.
AL - I had new OPD valve istalled in my aluminum tank for $20. The serviceman warned that sometimes
the aluminum threads in the tank will strip, necessitating replacement of the tank. With steel tank
this problem will not occur - the brass valve is softer than the steel.
Yes, the asking price is at least 3 times too much for its condition.
Look further.
AL - Sometimes a trailer is not worth anything - the cost of hauling it is more than it's worth and
who needs a junkyard refugee cluttering up the yard unless you're parting it out?
My '60 Overlander is also wired all in red with the # of knots distinguishing between them. Do you
have what each one is used for? This info may come in handy in the future.
AL - Electronics suppliers have neat little adhesive wrap-on wire tags. They last decades unlike tape.
> > Also, when perusing the champion trailers excellent tech info, I
noticed they claim the electric brakes should have the ground direct to truck, without being grounded
to trailer, which is different than I have done in past, I always grounded to white wire in access area,
and added an extra for good measure.
> > Why wouldnt it be grounded to trailer?
> > Also how many amps is the circuit breaker for the brakes, mine's to rusty to tell ...
AL - Electric brakes have to be grounded to the frame, or to the trailer battery negative, for the
breakaway to function.
10 amps per axle is what brake controller instructions say.
My old Spartan's Warner brakes drew 18 amps per axle, then I realized they were 6V brakes!! The brake
controller has to be turned WAY down. If each pair is wired in series, the current would be 9 amps per
axle, about what modern swinging-magnet brakes draw.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 09:43:01 -0800
From: "Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Interior bits and bobs Curtain rod
Another possible source. I bought one of these about twenty years ago, and
I think they are still made.
You might try the Kirsch Co of Sturgis, Michigan. They make high quality
conventional curtain rods AND a product line called Architrac. The
Architrac is an extruded aluminum curtain rod which they can bend to most
any configuration. A drapery firm that caries Kirsch products can special
order it for you.
These curtain rods are typically used in hospitals and other commercial
installations. They even have draw curtain (dual track) versions too.
Naturaly, Kirsch has the slides to fit these rods.
Oliver Filippi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Interior bits and bobs.
> Here is the URL for a sales rep that handles Contourail, the bendable
shower
> curtain rail:
>
> http://www.alco-sales.com/sra/jrassoc.html
>
> Might be worth giving him a call.
>
> Roger
>
> Roger Hightower
> WBCCI #4165,VAC
> 1975 31' Sovereign
> Mesa, AZ
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:59:58 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #67 - All electric?
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:31:30 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
Yes, we are all electric. I am trying to get info on what the best way to outfit our 69 caravel. I
understand that heating it off shore may be
impossible in winter. However, I wish to set up the airstream to provide the most electric power as
propane is out of the question.
Thanks for any info
Dan
14148
- - - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Clark" <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 12:01:15 -0600
From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
If you are going to try to heat it in the winter from Shore Power you
may want to change your fuse panel to a 240 volt 60 amp service.
Then only stay at the better camp grounds that can supply your
power needs.
Thank you
Dean L.
866-206-5962
AL - You can go all (120/240 VAC) electric if you use an inverter to power those circuits you want to
use when you are not connected to land power. No more battery problems except for the breakaway battery.
If one side of the 50 amp plug is used for any 120 V heating and the other side is used for everyting
else, lights, radio, etc., you can stay in 30 amp (120 VAC) park sites with most of your electric
equipment working (30a/50a adapter). If you have 240 V water heater, A/C, heat pump or furnace, it will
not work on a 30 amp supply. An electric range is 120/240 V on the surface units so they will heat up low.
The 50a/30a adapter is simply blank on one of the 50a prongs - not connected to anything. A 30a/50a
adapter may be harder to find than a 50a/30a but they are available, or you can make one up or have it
made up.
We have a 120 V heat pump. Unfortunately it's an Instamatic, which has been gone for 20 years. There may
be others. A heat pump draws less than 1/2 as much current per Btu as a resistance heater like the heat
strips common in A/C units, but heat pumps work only above around 36 degrees F. Modern ones are more
efficient than old ones like ours, so you can get quite a lot of heat on a 30 amp circuit.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 18:08:29 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
I have considered checking in my Overlander as I really like the backup lights on my Minuet - - not so
much that they help me - - rather their ability to warn approaching drivers when I back my trailer into
the side driveway at my house (I live on the main approach route for our
hospital's emergency room so there is quite often unexpected traffic on the street).
AL - My Chevy van has a neat little backup light/alarm that combines the beeper with a 20 W bulb. It has
a bayonet base that plugs in the backup light socket.
The Chevy dealer said it is not a GM item. Does anyone know where to get these? I would like to put one
in each backup light on my trailer.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 10:40:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
Use Aircraft Stripper - available at finer auto stores
everywhere. start with a gallon - you'll use it.
it's nastier than normal stripper, but it works better
and you don't have to use as much of it or wait as
long for it to work either.
I'd normally recommend something more environmentally
friendly, but if you try it, you'll find it just
doesn't work well at all on zolatone.
Toby
> Q: I will be stripping off the original and
> additional coat of paint from the interior
> skin. Any recommendation of what to use to strip
> off the layers of paint?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 10:59:58 -0800
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 9:25 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
>
>
> Q: Layouts: Does anyone have any unique or at least some
> varieties of how Airstream
> laid out 22 ft units?
There are many old layouts in the 1950's Brochures in the VAC Online
Library"
http://airstream.org./members/documents/
(under Flyers, Correspondence and Catalogs) For some reason Airstream
didn't use many dinette layouts, so if you want one, you have to
improvise.
>
> Q: New Grey, Black & Fresh Water tanks: Any recommendations
> on where to get
> new tanks, as well as what specifications (as far a weight)
> is recommended for this
> light frame? We were thinking of putting the blackwater tank
> on the floor (like
> our76) and putting the grey and fresh water below (near the axle).
Lots of info in the List Archives on this subject. Only note I'd make
here is that if you put the gray water over the axle (good idea), put
the fresh water above floor at the front of the trailer for tongue
weight and weight distribution.
>
> Q: I will be stripping off the original and additional coat
> of paint from the interior
> skin. Any recommendation of what to use to strip off the
> layers of paint?
Any paint stripper will work on the 2nd layer paint, but may not budge
the Zolatone. Best bet is to leave it in place and use it as a base
coat to a new coat of Zolatone.
>
Best of luck,
RJ
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 11:21:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Off Topic a Bit - Tow vehicule - Diesel?
Hi all,
Thinking of purchasing a Used 1996 Suburban K2500 6.5l Turbo Diesel. I do my own repairs to gas
vehicles that I own but this would be my first diesel. Does anyone know of anything I should be
watching out for?
Chris
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 13:43:02 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #71 - Drill out rivets; wiring labeling; brake groun ding?;
Brake circuit breaker
Both electrical and electronics suppliers carry Ideal number tapes.
Something might be like Ideal #44-102 has A-Z, 0-15 and + - and / tapes.
Or Panduit #PCMB-2 with the same selection of characters.
In the long past, many trailers depended on the hitch for grounding.
Modern standards require a wire in the connector because the hitch
ground is always intermittent making lights and brakes work part of the
time.
At 18 amps in parallel, the Spartan's Warner brakes would have drawn 9
amps each at 12 volts or only 4.5 amps at 6 volts. And 4.5 amps when
wired in series.
I think the back up light alarms are sold in most automotive parts
stores. Sometimes required of commercial trucks. (probably an OSHA
rule). Probably sold at J. C. Whitney too. Try a truck stop with some
parts on display too.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 16:12:02 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Mary, a good RV place will have lots of different sliders. I have about
3 kinds. What are the measurements of the track ?
Daisy
MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Hi Ruth!
>
> I am so excited to hear that you also have a 1961 model as well! We got a
> 1961 Safari last August--and we're fairly close by, in Vienna, VA, so I think
> we're going to have to get together!
>
> I have also seen tent style awnings for sale online--and very cheap. I'll
> have to check my links and email you it later. I think the attraction of the
> zip-dee ones is that they are easier to set up and store--they are spring loaded
> and self-retractable. OTOH, tent ones must be stored inside, so set up
> involves attaching them, setting up the poles, staking etc. Not bad--and certainly
> much cheaper--but lots of folks don't like the bother, especially on hot days
> where the awnings are almost necessities (to stop the sun from coming in
> through the windows). But darn, those zipdees cost a minor fortune (as I recall,
> the tent-style one was about $200).
>
> I am also trying to deal with the shower curtain issue. I think this
> particular shower curtain configuration may be unique to a very short release of
> models (perhaps only 1961s), because I have asked around for a similar question
> and nobody could effectively address it. What I did find out is that generic rv
> shops do sell curtain tracks that can be bent to fit, though perhaps with
> difficulty. These are fairly inexpensive, though I don't know if they will work
> effectively. Our track is still in decent shape, it just doesn't have any
> sliders in it--and I can't find any sliders that work with it. One of my more
> creatively oriented girlfriends recently had what may be a genius idea that I
> haven't tested--taking plastic modeling clay (like fimo--the stuff you shape,
> then bake in the oven) and shaping custom sliders. So, I'm going to try to do
> that first.
>
> As for the couch vs. dinette option, as a "DINK" (double income no kids)
> couple with few extra sleeping requirements, we considered also making a
> conversion, too. However, after speaking with lots of RV owners, the one thing we kept
> on hearing was that a couch was more convenient--that dinettes are difficult
> to get in and out of, that a couch is easier for entertaining. So, I found
> some retro looking tv trays at the Container Store and we'd figure we'd try
> living with the couch configuration for a while. During the hurricane, we ended up
> pretty much living out of our toaster--and we ended up figuring that it
> wasn't worth the bother to change (plus it gives us more space stow the nephews
> when we drag them along). That said, I have seen pretty decent online
> instructions for cutting the couch up into a dinette setup. You end up sacrificing a
> bit of floor space and the result is a twin instead of double bed, but the
> results look really nice: http://www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/
> (click "during" > then "dinette").
>
> I'm having a fun time trying to return the unit to a kind of fantasy version
> of its original appearance. I've been scouring events like the Big Flea and
> online for Ike era (or maybe early Richard Nixon age!) kitch--very fun!
>
> We recently bought new foam, because the old ones were originals--smelly and
> crumbling apart. That was quite expensive too! Now I'm making covers, which
> is easy but very tedious. After hearing about the great construction values
> of airstreams, I was rather shocked to see how poorly the original cushion
> covers were made. Pattern cutting was exceptionally amateurish, the pieces were
> sloppily stapled (one glued with contact cement, argh) to the wood base instead
> of sewn (so the covers could never be removed and cleaned). I'm making mine
> from turquoise canvas (bought from the $2.88 table at G Street Fabrics!) with
> pockets for the wood pieces, welts, zippers and buttons to attach the
> connected cushions (so you can remove them without having two connected cushions. To
> those who painstakingly unpiece their covers, I say don't bother. It's easier
> to make a new pattern by laying the new foam on yardage, tracing it with a
> fabric marker, then cutting it out (leaving extra space for seam allowance, of
> course). Maybe if I get the hang of web design, I'll make a tutorial, since
> it's so darn easy. Again, it's exceptionally tedious work, but it should keep
> me busy through the winter! The nice thing is that I know the result will be
> better than what was there in the first place.
>
> Well, better get myself to work, so bye for now!
>
> Mary Dotson
> 1961 Safari
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 16:30:45 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Fall Vintage Advantage
GAS,
This was totally uncalled for (sorry, the old moderator is rearing his
head.) Subscriber means just that, a Subscription to the newsletter! The
reason that you or anyone else has not gotten the newsletter yet is that
they are not ready for mailing yet. I have it from the old Membership
Chairman that the files were sent to the printer on the 9th of Nov. I have
no idea how much time it takes to print and mail out, but I suspect that you
will have your copy early in Dec.
Scott Scheuermann
VAC Membership Chairman
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "gshippen" <gshippen@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Jason,
>
> If you are like me you were probably cut off for not being a member of the
> WBCCI. I thought I should have been grandfathered in since I had been
> receiving the Vintage Advantage for a couple years!
>
> Good luck. GAS
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 16:46:56 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
Kevin,
Please keep in mind the need to keep the weight down in the '50's models.
One of our more active members did not and overloaded the front of his
trailer. He got away with it for a while, but now is looking at frame repair
or replacement. Don't remember which year exactly, but I think it was mid a
50's 22 footer. If you want much more than 20 gal fresh water I would
suggest putting it as close to the axle as possible. Wherever you place the
gray & black tanks remember to dump them before moving, or as soon as
possible (IE the campground dump station).
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Q: New Grey, Black & Fresh Water tanks: Any recommendations on where to
get
> new tanks, as well as what specifications (as far a weight) is recommended
for this
> light frame? We were thinking of putting the blackwater tank on the floor
(like
> our76) and putting the grey and fresh water below (near the axle).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:13:50 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
I'm pretty sure that I purchased our last set of sliders for the '60 at a
JoAnn Fabrics!, before that we got them from a RV place. If you want a pic
of what I am using just send me your email off list.
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:20:16 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1961 Tradewind
Carefull about the real cheep awnings. You will get what you pay for! If you
can find a place locally that makes awnings for businesses or homes talk
with them. Chances are they will do it for you. I had one made in '99 for
$350 in Cleveland OH. It has held up wonderfully, and I don't bother to take
it down in rain or high winds.
Scott
> I have also seen tent style awnings for sale online--and very cheap. I'll
> have to check my links and email you it later. I think the attraction of
the
> zip-dee ones is that they are easier to set up and store--they are spring
loaded
> and self-retractable. OTOH, tent ones must be stored inside, so set up
> involves attaching them, setting up the poles, staking etc. Not bad--and
certainly
> much cheaper--but lots of folks don't like the bother, especially on hot
days
> where the awnings are almost necessities (to stop the sun from coming in
> through the windows). But darn, those zipdees cost a minor fortune (as I
recall,
> the tent-style one was about $200).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 18:27:11 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Off Topic a Bit - Tow vehicule - Diesel?
I hope GM has improved their diesel since my 82 The eengine was solid but a
fule hog 18mpg empty 10 mpg towing In 135k miles parcial list of repairs 2
injecter pumps 4 starters 3 ac compressers2 transmitions. I serviced this thing
reguraly had no power tended to over heat until i put in a 5 cor radiator.
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 16:35:28 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
Scott
FWIW - if it was Tom's trailer - it is a 1953........
Ken J.
At 04:46 PM 11/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Kevin,
>
>Please keep in mind the need to keep the weight down in the '50's models.
>One of our more active members did not and overloaded the front of his
>trailer. He got away with it for a while, but now is looking at frame repair
>or replacement. Don't remember which year exactly, but I think it was mid a
>50's 22 footer. If you want much more than 20 gal fresh water I would
>suggest putting it as close to the axle as possible. Wherever you place the
>gray & black tanks remember to dump them before moving, or as soon as
>possible (IE the campground dump station).
>
>Scott
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>
> > Q: New Grey, Black & Fresh Water tanks: Any recommendations on where to
>get
> > new tanks, as well as what specifications (as far a weight) is recommended
>for this
> > light frame? We were thinking of putting the blackwater tank on the floor
>(like
> > our76) and putting the grey and fresh water below (near the axle).
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:29:40 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
Kevin - depending on where you are for the tanks. I got my grey water
tank from Pelland/All Rite in Arnold, CA and have the fresh and black
on order to. I am putting the black underneath in the next to the
rear-most opening of the frame - it still gives me enough clearance.
The grey is going just aft of the axle (single, straight axle on a 17
ft trailer), again slung under the floor. The fresh is inside under the
bed (in the very front of the trailer). Since mine is a complete
rebuild, it's actually simpler I would think since I can put the tanks
pretty much wherever I want them - given the size and shape of the
frame.
Also, if you've got the shell off, now's your chance to lay the
trailer out the way you want it instead of the way the factory did it -
personalized rather than for the masses.
Jo Ann
On Thursday, November 20, 2003, at 09:24 AM, kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net
wrote:
> With the shell back on the new floor (YAY) my wife and I are trying to
> come to some
> agreement on a new layout. Our 1956 Caravaneer existing layout is not
> exactly what
> we want.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 21:01:34 -0500
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner
I have a 53 model and would like to know how Tom fixed his after it failed.
Bob Patterson
>FWIW - if it was Tom's trailer - it is a 1953........
>
>>Please keep in mind the need to keep the weight down in the '50's models.
>>One of our more active members did not and overloaded the front of his
>>trailer. He got away with it for a while, but now is looking at frame repair
>>or replacement.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 21:38:56 -0500
From: "Dash7 (Michigan)" <dash7_@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
The bulb/beeper combo can be found at:
http://store.yahoo.com/rodi/des20100.html
This is a replacement for the 1156 bulb. Scroll down to the bottom of the
page for the 3156 bulb.
Don (MI)
>AL - My Chevy van has a neat little backup light/alarm that combines the
>beeper with a 20 W bulb. It has a bayonet base that plugs in the backup
>light socket.
>The Chevy dealer said it is not a GM item. Does anyone know where to get
>these? I would like to put one in each backup light on my trailer.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Say goodbye to busy signals and slow downloads with a high-speed Internet
connection! Prices start at less than $1 a day average.
https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 20:04:06 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
OK, so who has a backup light circuit on their trailer? I don't recall one
in the diagram, but then mine isn't here where I can check it easily.
I thought there was just turn (L/R), tail, stop, markers, and brake.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 21:14:35 -0600
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Greetings Roger!
Backup lights were evidently standard on my '78 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre,
and they were an option on my '64 Airstream Overlander - -
unfortunately, the Overlander didn't receive the option (one of the few
that it didn't receive).
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Roger Hightower
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 9:04 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
OK, so who has a backup light circuit on their trailer? I don't recall
one
in the diagram, but then mine isn't here where I can check it easily.
I thought there was just turn (L/R), tail, stop, markers, and brake.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 21:28:59 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
My '68 Caravel has back up lights. And their wire shows on the trailer
and car wiring diagram, page 48. I've not made them work. Not high on my
list of priorities. When I need to see what the back end is doing while
backing in the dark, I use a magnetic flashlight on the back bumper. Its
narrow long beam helps tell where the trailer is wandering quite
handily.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 22:54:43 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Well, there are white lights in the back of the '73 that light up when I
back up...
Daisy
Roger Hightower wrote:
> OK, so who has a backup light circuit on their trailer? I don't recall one
> in the diagram, but then mine isn't here where I can check it easily.
>
> I thought there was just turn (L/R), tail, stop, markers, and brake.
>
> Roger
>
> Roger Hightower
> WBCCI #4165,VAC
> 1975 31' Sovereign
> Mesa, AZ
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 22:56:50 EST
From: M1492@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
J C whitney
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 23:40:58 -0500
From: Dick Kenan <as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Off Topic a Bit - Tow vehicule - Diesel?
Jim:
I think GM recently went over to the Duramax diesel, made by
Isuzu. So, you got your wish; it's a solid performer. ;-)
- - Dick
(5368)
At 06:27 PM 11/20/2003, you wrote:
>I hope GM has improved their diesel since my 82 The eengine was solid but a
>fule hog 18mpg empty 10 mpg towing In 135k miles parcial list of repairs 2
>injecter pumps 4 starters 3 ac compressers2 transmitions. I serviced this
>thing
>reguraly had no power tended to over heat until i put in a 5 cor radiator.
>Jim Smith
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
"The trouble with most folks isn't so much their ignorance, as knowing so
many things that ain't so."
- -- Josh Billings
- ---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 22:30:35 -0700
From: "gshippen" <gshippen@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Fall Vintage Advantage
Scott,
I realize my response was probably uncalled for, however I am still smarting
from the news that my subscription to the Vintage Advantage was cut off
because of my lack of membership in the WBCCI. In reality I do not recall
membership being a prerequisite when I subscribed two years ago. No one has
enjoyed the Vintage Advantage more than I, in fact I've saved all the copies
and won't loan them out!
WBCCI membership pending .
Cheerfully grumbling,
GAS
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Fall Vintage Advantage
> GAS,
>
> This was totally uncalled for (sorry, the old moderator is rearing his
> head.) Subscriber means just that, a Subscription to the newsletter! The
> reason that you or anyone else has not gotten the newsletter yet is that
> they are not ready for mailing yet. I have it from the old Membership
> Chairman that the files were sent to the printer on the 9th of Nov. I have
> no idea how much time it takes to print and mail out, but I suspect that
you
> will have your copy early in Dec.
>
> Scott Scheuermann
> VAC Membership Chairman
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gshippen" <gshippen@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Jason,
> >
> > If you are like me you were probably cut off for not being a member of
the
> > WBCCI. I thought I should have been grandfathered in since I had been
> > receiving the Vintage Advantage for a couple years!
> >
> > Good luck. GAS
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #73
************************
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
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|