The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #67
VAL Digest Saturday, November 15 2003 Volume 01 : Number 067
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
[VAL] Re: Non Univolt converter and Control panel "Power On" light
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #66
Re: [VAL] Re: Non Univolt converter and Control panel "Power On" light
Re: [VAL] Re: Non Univolt converter and Control panel "Power On" light
[VAL] Off topic panic
RE: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #66
Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
[VAL] Introduction
Re: [VAL] Introduction
Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt New converter gel battery compatible
Re: [VAL] Battery controller(s)
Re: [VAL] Introduction
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:27:19 -0800
From: "Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
The reason the old Univolts are less than great (by today's standards) is
that they are a single voltage level charger.
Thus they are slow at recharging a battery with a low charge, AND have too
high a voltage to maintain a fully charged battery (which causes them to
"Cook" or boil off the electrolyte in a fully charged battery). This latter
characteristic is a serious shortcoming with the now common "maintenance
free" batteries which typically are difficult or impossible for one to add
electrolyte to replace the boiled off water.
The Intellipower/Charge Wizard, on the other hand, will put out more current
(and a higher voltage) to recharge a dead or low charge battery, and then
reduce the charge rate as the battery reaches a full charge. It also can
tell if the battery is overheating and reduces its charge rate. When the
battery is fully charged, the converter backs off to a lower voltage to
prevent overcharging and boiling off electrolyte.
However, a fully charged battery on a light "trickle" charge can actually
lose some of its capacity (and charge)due to electrolyte stratification
(where the electrolyte separates into different concentrations of acidity at
different levels within the battery. To prevent this, the Charge Wizard
causes the converter to up the voltage "and stir up the electrolyte" by
executing a 15 minute or so higher voltage charge every day or two.
The old Univolts were built like tanks, and weighed almost as much. The
Intellisync/Charge Wizard, on the other hand is quite light and typically a
more potent charger.
Oliver Filippi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
> There are better battery charging and power pack devices than Univolts.
> Schuereman recommends some in the archives. Their names escape me. Old
> Univolts have tended to overcharge batteries or the have failed
> completely.
>> Reproduction by permission only.
Only included pertinent quotes, Dr. J., with appropriate credit.
Oliver
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:47:03 -0800
From: "Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Non Univolt converter and Control panel "Power On" light
I recently replaced the Univolt in my '76 Tradewind.
It fit very nicely on the shelf behind the range (where the old Univolt was
mounted). I made up some new cables to connect the Intellipower to the
Airsteam fuse panel by cutting in half a new battery cable (from Wal-Mart)
with eyelet terminals on each end. I also re-routed some of the wires and
the wiring harness for a neater installation, and to minimize interference
with the water pump.
If anyone is interested, I will post photos of the installation.
The only problem (which has been mentioned in the past, with no solution) is
that there is no activation of the "converter power on" light on the central
control panel when the Univolt activated (when pluged into shore power).
However, my son and I are working on this problem and will have a fix in a
few weeks, at which time I will post the details, for those purists who want
the system to work 100 percent.
The new converter is very quiet. The only sound is from the muffin fan
which only goes on only when the converter is under heavy load and heats up.
Most of the time the fan is not running and the unit is completely silent
(as opposed to the constant 60 HZ buzz of the Univolt)
Oliver Filippi
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:06:14 -0600
From: "Bright, Beth" <Bbright@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #66
Hi Tom,
Were looking at purchasing a 1962 Avion trailer. Any websites we can go to
see information about this trailer?
Beth
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 12:00 AM
To: valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: VAL Digest V1 #66
VAL Digest Friday, November 14 2003 Volume 01 : Number 066
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Polisher info
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
[VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
[VAL] inverter/ univolt
Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
Re: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
[VAL] Battery controller(s)
Re: [VAL] Battery controller(s)
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:36:38 EST
From: Streamliner86@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Polisher info
Does anyone know of a firm that does polishing in the Tampa FL or Long
Island
NY?
Thanks ....Phil K.
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 06:56:12 -0800 (PST)
From: TERRY ROCKFIELD <tarockfield@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
Tom.
My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
univolt replaced. My Battery will not stay charged. I have no readings on
my control panel for voltage and current. Does any one have any ideas what
might be the problem ?.
Incorrectly wiring in the new Univolt was mentioned as a possible cause.
I do not have a wiring diagram that is specific, having wire color codes,
or in detail enought that I can use it for trouble shooting. I may make one
from the existing circuits and analyse it for defientcies. Thanks
TARockfield member # 02868
VAL Digest <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 10:22:47 -0800
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
Michelle here, also have a 71 25' Land Yacht. My converter charger was shot
so I replaced it with an ordinary
battery charger and so far so good. Re your battery not staying charged,
have you checked to make sure the battery
is good, fluid level is full? A next step could be to find out what is
draining the battery by disconnecting everything
and reconnecting things one at a time. The fuse panel is a good way to
disconnect things. Find out if the battery
will hold a charge with nothing hooked up. You need a VOM (volt ohm) meter
to troubleshoot the electrical.
imho,
best,
Michelle
"People will forget what you said. People will forget what you do. People
will never forget how you made them feel."
Tom.
My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
univolt replaced. My Battery will not stay charged. I have no readings on
my control panel for voltage and current. Does any one have any ideas what
might be the problem ?.
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:39:32 -0600
From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
This may sound over simplified but did you check the 120 volt breaker
in the entrance fuse panel?
It could have tripped.
Dean
On Nov 13, 2003, at 8:56 AM, TERRY ROCKFIELD wrote:
Tom.
My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
univolt replaced. My Battery will not stay charged. I have no
readings on my control panel for voltage and current. Does any one
have any ideas what might be the problem ?.
Incorrectly wiring in the new Univolt was mentioned as a possible
cause.
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 12:21:50 EST
From: RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
Hello, We have a '65 Airstream Trade Wind Twin 24' and we'd like to remove
the crudded up black watertank and replace it with both a grey water holding
tank and a black water tank. Has anyone done this and how tough is it? Who
can
supply the tanks? Thanks, Stuart and Bonnie Resor. 760-753-8022.
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:31:30 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
Yes, we are all electric. I am trying to get info on what the best way to
outfit our 69 caravel. I understand that heating it off shore may be
impossible in winter. However, I wish to set up the airstream to provide
the most electric power as propane is out of the question.
Thanks for any info
Dan
14148
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Clark" <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
> Jim :
> Are you all electric ??
>
> Jim Clark
>
>
> At 08:42 PM 11/12/2003, you wrote:
> >I use a 4kva honda generator on the toung of my tradewinf and it handles
the
> >load quite well
> >Jim Smith
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:42:38 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
Going all electric.
My question is that my 69 caravel has a univolt with 15 on the side. Is
this
a 15 amp univolt. I know that on inland's parts list that they sell a 55
amp.
My lights dim when all are on and i turn on the range vent. Does this mean
that my univolt system can not keep up with the power usage.
Should I change to the larger 55. Will it charge the battery faster?
Dan
14148
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 12:01:15 -0600
From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
If you are going to try to heat it in the winter from Shore Power you
may want to change your fuse panel to a 240 volt 60 amp service.
Then only stay at the better camp grounds that can supply your
power needs.
Thank you
Dean L.
866-206-5962
On Nov 13, 2003, at 11:31 AM, Dan Childress wrote:
Yes, we are all electric. I am trying to get info on what the best way
to
outfit our 69 caravel. I understand that heating it off shore may be
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:47:44 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
on my 63 , there are 4 wires going back from the access in front . the
factory
had a cute way of labeling them ,by tieing knots in them , no knot ,1,2,3 ,
knots in each since they are all red . I have three hooked up and have all
the
functions brake lights ,turns running lights etc. Whats the fourth one for?
or
is something hooked up wrong in my truck (works fine on other trailer .)
Also , when perusing the champion trailers excellent tech info , I noticed
they
claim the electric brakes should have the ground direct to truck ,without
being
grounded to trailer ,which is different than I have done in past , I always
grounded to white wire in access area , and added an extra for good measure
.
Why wouldnt it be grounded to trailer ?
Also how many amps is the circuit breaker for the brakes ,mines to rusty to
tell ...
Chris 63 flying cloud , making progress
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:01:05 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
I found the heatstrip in my AC worked fime in temps in the low 40s I am not
going any where were the temp gets lower.
Jim Smith
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:17:49 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
I have a 65 tradewid double rear bath.when I installed a new floor in the
bath I replaced the black tank with a tank for both black and gray water.I
fabricated the tank to fit between the frame rails and dived it so one end
is gray
and has its own dump valve.the plumong is in the bumper compartment I made
both
the bumper compartment and tamk 8in deep the tank is 24in Xthe distance
between the frame rails .It is devideded very close to the toilet. the tenk
is
bonded to the floor. works for me but trook a lot of engineering to pull it
off.
Jim Smith
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:09:32 -0600
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
Greetings Chris!
> on my 63 , there are 4 wires going back from the access in front . the
factory
> had a cute way of labeling them ,by tieing knots in them , no knot ,1,2,3
,
> knots in each since they are all red . I have three hooked up and have all
the
> functions brake lights ,turns running lights etc. Whats the fourth one
for? or
> is something hooked up wrong in my truck (works fine on other trailer .)
I can't say with great certainty, but I suspect that the extra wire may be
for the optional backup lights. I know this was an option in '64 and assume
that they were in '63 as well. The literature that came with my '64 made
mention that the backup lights were available as a factory installed or
dealer installed option which leads me to believe that the wire must have
been placed in all trailers even if the option was specified at the time of
purchase. I have considered checkin in my Overlander as I really like the
backup lights on my Minuet - - not so much that they help me - - rather
their ability to warn approaching drivers when I back my trailer into the
side driveway at my house (I live on the main approach route for our
hospital's emergency room so there is quite often unexpected traffic on the
street).
Good luck with solving the riddle of the extra wire!
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado (Towcar-In-Training)
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:36:39 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
> on my 63 , there are 4 wires going back from the access in front . the
factory
> had a cute way of labeling them ,by tieing knots in them , no knot ,1,2,3
,
> knots in each since they are all red . I have three hooked up and have all
the
> functions brake lights ,turns running lights etc. Whats the fourth one
for? or
> is something hooked up wrong in my truck (works fine on other trailer .)
> Also , when perusing the champion trailers excellent tech info , I noticed
they
> claim the electric brakes should have the ground direct to truck ,without
being
> grounded to trailer ,which is different than I have done in past , I
always
> grounded to white wire in access area , and added an extra for good
measure .
> Why wouldnt it be grounded to trailer ?
> Also how many amps is the circuit breaker for the brakes ,mines to rusty
to
> tell ...
> Chris 63 flying cloud , making progress
Hey Chris:
I have a diagram called TRAILER-CAR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR that pretty much
shows where all wires go from the 7-pin connector each way for the '67 model
year. I wouldn't expect it to be much different 4 years earlier.
Want me to scan it and send it to you?
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
- ------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 00:25:45 +0000
From: satdjpete@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
Pete Here,
as someone said earlier be sure your 110 breaker is on.
Any electrical problem is easier if you start at the inputs and go to the
outputs you will need a 110 tester of somekind ac dc vom cheap at any auto
parts store. You will also need a 12v dc tester thus the ac dc vom.
Next go to the input of your univolt make sure you have 110vac at the
Black and white wires ie" coming from you breaker. if you have it then go to
your outputs of your univolt they go to the battery see if you have 12v dc.
be sure your battery is disconected that way you only read what your univolt
is puting out.
If when you hook up you battery the voltage drops suddenly you may have a
bad battery.
Hope this is of some help!!!
Pete Highlands
WBCCI 6385
n3rlj
1968 TW 24T
> Michelle here, also have a 71 25' Land Yacht. My converter charger was
shot
> so I replaced it with an ordinary
> battery charger and so far so good. Re your battery not staying charged,
> have you checked to make sure the battery
> is good, fluid level is full? A next step could be to find out what is
> draining the battery by disconnecting everything
> and reconnecting things one at a time. The fuse panel is a good way to
> disconnect things. Find out if the battery
> will hold a charge with nothing hooked up. You need a VOM (volt ohm) meter
> to troubleshoot the electrical.
> imho,
> best,
> Michelle
>
> "People will forget what you said. People will forget what you do. People
> will never forget how you made them feel."
>
> Tom.
> My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
> univolt replaced. My Battery will not stay charged. I have no readings
on
> my control panel for voltage and current. Does any one have any ideas
what
> might be the problem ?.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:58:22 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
There are better battery charging and power pack devices than Univolts.
Schuereman recommends some in the archives. Their names escape me. Old
Univolts have tended to overcharge batteries or the have failed
completely.
Gerald J.
- - --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:10:44 -0800
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
"Intelli-Power" with the "Charge-Wizard" accessory - often on sale at
Camping World.
I have a couple of MagnaTek converters, which i believe are the modern
incarnation of the UniVolt, but they don't have a 'smart-charger' component.
tuna
reno, nv
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:05:16 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Battery controller(s)
I intend to install an Intelli Power converter and Charge Wizard in my
rebuilt Bubble. Also a diode hookup to tow vehicle that will charge on
the go - will the Charge Wizard monitor that input as well?
The solar panels - another charge controller? or will one unit do it
all? This is a total of 3 separate inputs to the batteries so one
charge controller?
Jo Ann
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:58:25 -0800
From: "Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Battery controller(s)
Joann,
I am not familiar with the circuitry in the Intellipower/Charge Wizard. You
might try e-mailing or calling Progressive Dynamics (the manufacturer)
http://www.progressivedyn,com
East coast ((MI) 8-5 EST) sales mgr: Ron Mill (269) 781-4241
West coast ((CA) 3-5 PST) sales mgr: Dave Dykehouse (805) 693-0421
My guess is that the Charge Wizard will monitor the VOLTAGE from the
battery (or batteries) to determine the charging rate. It could also monitor
the current from the charger or the load on the converter.
It will handle multiple 12 volt batteries in parallel. Therefore, if you
left your tow vehicle electrically connected to the trailer with the tow
vehicle engine off and NO diode in the line to the tow vehicle, the
Intellipower would charge both batteries, assuming either was in need of a
charge. I don't think the batteries have to be exactly the same.
However, the diode will likely foul things up, since it is usually installed
to prevent current flow from the tow vehicle's battery to the trailer
battery circuit when the tow vehicle engine is off. Thus the voltage reading
the Charge Wizard would get from the tow vehicle's battery would be zero
volts and would likely cause the converter to assume that one of the
batteries was dead (or did not exist) and therfore either go into full
charge mode (at least until the trailer's battery was fully charged) or a
charge mode relavent to the condition of the trailer battery .
Your best bet would be to write to Progressive Dynamics with a proposed
circuit diagram of the diode location and get their opinion.
Good luck, and let me know your response.
Oliver Filippi
> I intend to install an Intelli Power converter and Charge Wizard in my
> rebuilt Bubble. Also a diode hookup to tow vehicle that will charge on
> the go - will the Charge Wizard monitor that input as well?
> The solar panels - another charge controller? or will one unit do it
> all? This is a total of 3 separate inputs to the batteries so one
> charge controller?
> Jo Ann
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #66
************************
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:24:07 -0800
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Non Univolt converter and Control panel "Power On" light
The only problem (which has been mentioned in the past, with no solution) is
that there is no activation of the "converter power on" light on the central
control panel when the Univolt activated (when pluged into shore power).
Oliver
I suppose you checked the bulb? If it's good, check to see if voltage is
reaching the socket,
if so check for a good ground.
best,
Michelle
"People will forget what you said. People will forget what you do. People
will never forget how you made them feel."
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 08:33:10 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Non Univolt converter and Control panel "Power On" light
Checking bulbs and voltages won't work. The InteliPower units aren't
configured to provide an output to the "converter power on" light.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Non Univolt converter and Control panel "Power On"
light
> The only problem (which has been mentioned in the past, with no solution)
is
> that there is no activation of the "converter power on" light on the
central
> control panel when the Univolt activated (when pluged into shore power).
> Oliver
>
> I suppose you checked the bulb? If it's good, check to see if voltage is
> reaching the socket,
> if so check for a good ground.
> best,
> Michelle
>
> "People will forget what you said. People will forget what you do. People
> will never forget how you made them feel."
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:36:21 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Off topic panic
Hi folks,
I'm having a panic about my '69 Avion truck camper.
It's heavy, to get loaded the jacks have to be fully extended, and it
needs to be level.
Those of you who have dealt with truck campers PLEASE email me off list
with What's gotta be right and what's OK. Right now I don't dare take it
off the truck....afraid it will not go back on or worse, it will tip
over onto the Airstream and wreck the both of them. Yikes.
Daisy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 08:40:28 -0700
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
Stuart,
I just removed the BW tank from my 67 TW. I have considered adding a GW
tank, but have made no decision yet. Here's the removal process in case
you have not started. I started all of this because the back support
angle iron bracket was badly rusted.
1 Remove belly skin far enough to work on front support rail. I removed
it all.
2 Remove support rails, and keep tank supported from below. I had to
twist off three bolts and chisel off the fourth because of rust.
3 Unscrew clamp that holds water drain to Thetford valve. I had to cut
rubber part of clamp so it would slip off.
4 Saw through vent pipe at a spot where you can clamp it back together.
5 Remove toilet and metal flange.
6 Remove plastic flange that won't fit down through the hole in floor
unless the floor is rotted out. This was a trick because I couldn't get
the flange off. I broke off a jig saw blade so that the maximum stroke
was one inch and wouldn't hit the top of the tank as I sawed around the
flange. I plan to make an aluminum flange that will fit above the floor
and under the plastic tank flange. The toilet mounting flange (can't
have too many flanges) will then screw to this new aluminum plate.
I've had new rails made for $25 and a new metal box for $75. I will
paint these and the trailer frame with POR15 before installing. I will
also have to make a decision about a GW tank, which I think could fit
between frame members above the axils. Plumbing it may be a problem.
Let me know what you decide.
Best Regards,
Jim
jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> Hello, We have a '65 Airstream Trade Wind Twin 24' and we'd like to
remove
> the crudded up black watertank and replace it with both a grey water
> holding
> tank and a black water tank. Has anyone done this and how tough is it?
Who
> can
> supply the tanks? Thanks, Stuart and Bonnie Resor. 760-753-8022.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 08:16:32 -0800
From: "Dallas Blair" <photo@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #66
Beth, saw your interest in an Avion,,,I have a Avion for sale at (
vintagetrailersplus.com ) Thanks Dallas
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bright, Beth" <Bbright@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 7:06 AM
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #66
> Hi Tom,
> Were looking at purchasing a 1962 Avion trailer. Any websites we can go
to
> see information about this trailer?
> Beth
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 12:00 AM
> To: valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: VAL Digest V1 #66
>
>
>
> VAL Digest Friday, November 14 2003 Volume 01 : Number
066
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> Topics in Today's Digest:
>
> [VAL] Polisher info
> [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
> Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
> Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
> [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
> Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
> [VAL] inverter/ univolt
> Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
> Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
> Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
> Re: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
> Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
> Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
> Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
> Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
> Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
> [VAL] Battery controller(s)
> Re: [VAL] Battery controller(s)
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:36:38 EST
> From: Streamliner86@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Polisher info
>
> Does anyone know of a firm that does polishing in the Tampa FL or Long
> Island
> NY?
> Thanks ....Phil K.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 06:56:12 -0800 (PST)
> From: TERRY ROCKFIELD <tarockfield@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
>
> Tom.
> My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
> univolt replaced. My Battery will not stay charged. I have no readings
on
> my control panel for voltage and current. Does any one have any ideas
what
> might be the problem ?.
>
> Incorrectly wiring in the new Univolt was mentioned as a possible cause.
>
> I do not have a wiring diagram that is specific, having wire color
codes,
> or in detail enought that I can use it for trouble shooting. I may make
one
> from the existing circuits and analyse it for defientcies. Thanks
> TARockfield member # 02868
> VAL Digest <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 10:22:47 -0800
> From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
>
> Michelle here, also have a 71 25' Land Yacht. My converter charger was
shot
> so I replaced it with an ordinary
> battery charger and so far so good. Re your battery not staying charged,
> have you checked to make sure the battery
> is good, fluid level is full? A next step could be to find out what is
> draining the battery by disconnecting everything
> and reconnecting things one at a time. The fuse panel is a good way to
> disconnect things. Find out if the battery
> will hold a charge with nothing hooked up. You need a VOM (volt ohm) meter
> to troubleshoot the electrical.
> imho,
> best,
> Michelle
>
> "People will forget what you said. People will forget what you do. People
> will never forget how you made them feel."
>
> Tom.
> My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
> univolt replaced. My Battery will not stay charged. I have no readings
on
> my control panel for voltage and current. Does any one have any ideas
what
> might be the problem ?.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:39:32 -0600
> From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
>
> This may sound over simplified but did you check the 120 volt breaker
> in the entrance fuse panel?
> It could have tripped.
> Dean
>
>
> On Nov 13, 2003, at 8:56 AM, TERRY ROCKFIELD wrote:
>
> Tom.
> My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
> univolt replaced. My Battery will not stay charged. I have no
> readings on my control panel for voltage and current. Does any one
> have any ideas what might be the problem ?.
>
> Incorrectly wiring in the new Univolt was mentioned as a possible
> cause.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 12:21:50 EST
> From: RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
>
> Hello, We have a '65 Airstream Trade Wind Twin 24' and we'd like to remove
> the crudded up black watertank and replace it with both a grey water
holding
>
> tank and a black water tank. Has anyone done this and how tough is it? Who
> can
> supply the tanks? Thanks, Stuart and Bonnie Resor. 760-753-8022.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:31:30 -0600
> From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
>
> Yes, we are all electric. I am trying to get info on what the best way to
> outfit our 69 caravel. I understand that heating it off shore may be
> impossible in winter. However, I wish to set up the airstream to provide
> the most electric power as propane is out of the question.
> Thanks for any info
> Dan
> 14148
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Clark" <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 9:16 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
>
>
> > Jim :
> > Are you all electric ??
> >
> > Jim Clark
> >
> >
> > At 08:42 PM 11/12/2003, you wrote:
> > >I use a 4kva honda generator on the toung of my tradewinf and it
handles
> the
> > >load quite well
> > >Jim Smith
> > >
> > >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> > >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> > >
> > >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:42:38 -0600
> From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
>
> Going all electric.
>
> My question is that my 69 caravel has a univolt with 15 on the side. Is
> this
> a 15 amp univolt. I know that on inland's parts list that they sell a 55
> amp.
> My lights dim when all are on and i turn on the range vent. Does this
mean
> that my univolt system can not keep up with the power usage.
> Should I change to the larger 55. Will it charge the battery faster?
> Dan
> 14148
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 12:01:15 -0600
> From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
>
> If you are going to try to heat it in the winter from Shore Power you
> may want to change your fuse panel to a 240 volt 60 amp service.
> Then only stay at the better camp grounds that can supply your
> power needs.
>
>
> Thank you
> Dean L.
> 866-206-5962
>
> On Nov 13, 2003, at 11:31 AM, Dan Childress wrote:
>
> Yes, we are all electric. I am trying to get info on what the best way
> to
> outfit our 69 caravel. I understand that heating it off shore may be
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:47:44 -0500
> From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
>
> on my 63 , there are 4 wires going back from the access in front . the
> factory
> had a cute way of labeling them ,by tieing knots in them , no knot ,1,2,3
,
> knots in each since they are all red . I have three hooked up and have all
> the
> functions brake lights ,turns running lights etc. Whats the fourth one
for?
> or
> is something hooked up wrong in my truck (works fine on other trailer .)
> Also , when perusing the champion trailers excellent tech info , I noticed
> they
> claim the electric brakes should have the ground direct to truck ,without
> being
> grounded to trailer ,which is different than I have done in past , I
always
> grounded to white wire in access area , and added an extra for good
measure
> .
> Why wouldnt it be grounded to trailer ?
> Also how many amps is the circuit breaker for the brakes ,mines to rusty
to
> tell ...
> Chris 63 flying cloud , making progress
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:01:05 EST
> From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
>
> I found the heatstrip in my AC worked fime in temps in the low 40s I am
not
> going any where were the temp gets lower.
> Jim Smith
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:17:49 EST
> From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
>
> I have a 65 tradewid double rear bath.when I installed a new floor in the
> bath I replaced the black tank with a tank for both black and gray water.I
> fabricated the tank to fit between the frame rails and dived it so one end
> is gray
> and has its own dump valve.the plumong is in the bumper compartment I made
> both
> the bumper compartment and tamk 8in deep the tank is 24in Xthe distance
> between the frame rails .It is devideded very close to the toilet. the
tenk
> is
> bonded to the floor. works for me but trook a lot of engineering to pull
it
> off.
> Jim Smith
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:09:32 -0600
> From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
>
> Greetings Chris!
>
> > on my 63 , there are 4 wires going back from the access in front . the
> factory
> > had a cute way of labeling them ,by tieing knots in them , no knot
,1,2,3
> ,
> > knots in each since they are all red . I have three hooked up and have
all
> the
> > functions brake lights ,turns running lights etc. Whats the fourth one
> for? or
> > is something hooked up wrong in my truck (works fine on other trailer .)
>
> I can't say with great certainty, but I suspect that the extra wire may be
> for the optional backup lights. I know this was an option in '64 and
assume
> that they were in '63 as well. The literature that came with my '64 made
> mention that the backup lights were available as a factory installed or
> dealer installed option which leads me to believe that the wire must have
> been placed in all trailers even if the option was specified at the time
of
> purchase. I have considered checkin in my Overlander as I really like the
> backup lights on my Minuet - - not so much that they help me - - rather
> their ability to warn approaching drivers when I back my trailer into the
> side driveway at my house (I live on the main approach route for our
> hospital's emergency room so there is quite often unexpected traffic on
the
> street).
>
> Good luck with solving the riddle of the extra wire!
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin D. Allen
> WBCCI/VAC #6359
> 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
> 1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado (Towcar-In-Training)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:36:39 -0800
> From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
>
> > on my 63 , there are 4 wires going back from the access in front . the
> factory
> > had a cute way of labeling them ,by tieing knots in them , no knot
,1,2,3
> ,
> > knots in each since they are all red . I have three hooked up and have
all
> the
> > functions brake lights ,turns running lights etc. Whats the fourth one
> for? or
> > is something hooked up wrong in my truck (works fine on other trailer .)
> > Also , when perusing the champion trailers excellent tech info , I
noticed
> they
> > claim the electric brakes should have the ground direct to truck
,without
> being
> > grounded to trailer ,which is different than I have done in past , I
> always
> > grounded to white wire in access area , and added an extra for good
> measure .
> > Why wouldnt it be grounded to trailer ?
> > Also how many amps is the circuit breaker for the brakes ,mines to rusty
> to
> > tell ...
> > Chris 63 flying cloud , making progress
>
> Hey Chris:
>
> I have a diagram called TRAILER-CAR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR that pretty much
> shows where all wires go from the 7-pin connector each way for the '67
model
> year. I wouldn't expect it to be much different 4 years earlier.
>
> Want me to scan it and send it to you?
>
> GQ '67 Safari
> 4082 in CA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 00:25:45 +0000
> From: satdjpete@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
>
> Pete Here,
> as someone said earlier be sure your 110 breaker is on.
> Any electrical problem is easier if you start at the inputs and go to
the
> outputs you will need a 110 tester of somekind ac dc vom cheap at any auto
> parts store. You will also need a 12v dc tester thus the ac dc vom.
> Next go to the input of your univolt make sure you have 110vac at the
> Black and white wires ie" coming from you breaker. if you have it then go
to
> your outputs of your univolt they go to the battery see if you have 12v
dc.
> be sure your battery is disconected that way you only read what your
univolt
> is puting out.
> If when you hook up you battery the voltage drops suddenly you may have
a
> bad battery.
> Hope this is of some help!!!
> Pete Highlands
> WBCCI 6385
> n3rlj
> 1968 TW 24T
> > Michelle here, also have a 71 25' Land Yacht. My converter charger was
> shot
> > so I replaced it with an ordinary
> > battery charger and so far so good. Re your battery not staying charged,
> > have you checked to make sure the battery
> > is good, fluid level is full? A next step could be to find out what is
> > draining the battery by disconnecting everything
> > and reconnecting things one at a time. The fuse panel is a good way to
> > disconnect things. Find out if the battery
> > will hold a charge with nothing hooked up. You need a VOM (volt ohm)
meter
> > to troubleshoot the electrical.
> > imho,
> > best,
> > Michelle
> >
> > "People will forget what you said. People will forget what you do.
People
> > will never forget how you made them feel."
> >
> > Tom.
> > My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
> > univolt replaced. My Battery will not stay charged. I have no readings
> on
> > my control panel for voltage and current. Does any one have any ideas
> what
> > might be the problem ?.
> >
>
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:58:22 -0600
> From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
>
> There are better battery charging and power pack devices than Univolts.
> Schuereman recommends some in the archives. Their names escape me. Old
> Univolts have tended to overcharge batteries or the have failed
> completely.
>
> Gerald J.
> - --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:10:44 -0800
> From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
>
> "Intelli-Power" with the "Charge-Wizard" accessory - often on sale at
> Camping World.
>
> I have a couple of MagnaTek converters, which i believe are the modern
> incarnation of the UniVolt, but they don't have a 'smart-charger'
component.
>
> tuna
> reno, nv
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:05:16 -0800
> From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> Subject: [VAL] Battery controller(s)
>
> I intend to install an Intelli Power converter and Charge Wizard in my
> rebuilt Bubble. Also a diode hookup to tow vehicle that will charge on
> the go - will the Charge Wizard monitor that input as well?
> The solar panels - another charge controller? or will one unit do it
> all? This is a total of 3 separate inputs to the batteries so one
> charge controller?
> Jo Ann
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:58:25 -0800
> From: "Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Battery controller(s)
>
> Joann,
>
> I am not familiar with the circuitry in the Intellipower/Charge Wizard.
You
> might try e-mailing or calling Progressive Dynamics (the manufacturer)
> http://www.progressivedyn,com
>
> East coast ((MI) 8-5 EST) sales mgr: Ron Mill (269) 781-4241
>
> West coast ((CA) 3-5 PST) sales mgr: Dave Dykehouse (805) 693-0421
>
>
> My guess is that the Charge Wizard will monitor the VOLTAGE from the
> battery (or batteries) to determine the charging rate. It could also
monitor
> the current from the charger or the load on the converter.
>
> It will handle multiple 12 volt batteries in parallel. Therefore, if you
> left your tow vehicle electrically connected to the trailer with the tow
> vehicle engine off and NO diode in the line to the tow vehicle, the
> Intellipower would charge both batteries, assuming either was in need of a
> charge. I don't think the batteries have to be exactly the same.
>
> However, the diode will likely foul things up, since it is usually
installed
> to prevent current flow from the tow vehicle's battery to the trailer
> battery circuit when the tow vehicle engine is off. Thus the voltage
reading
> the Charge Wizard would get from the tow vehicle's battery would be zero
> volts and would likely cause the converter to assume that one of the
> batteries was dead (or did not exist) and therfore either go into full
> charge mode (at least until the trailer's battery was fully charged) or a
> charge mode relavent to the condition of the trailer battery .
>
> Your best bet would be to write to Progressive Dynamics with a proposed
> circuit diagram of the diode location and get their opinion.
>
> Good luck, and let me know your response.
>
> Oliver Filippi
>
> > I intend to install an Intelli Power converter and Charge Wizard in my
> > rebuilt Bubble. Also a diode hookup to tow vehicle that will charge on
> > the go - will the Charge Wizard monitor that input as well?
> > The solar panels - another charge controller? or will one unit do it
> > all? This is a total of 3 separate inputs to the batteries so one
> > charge controller?
> > Jo Ann
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of VAL Digest V1 #66
> ************************
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 12:22:00 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
Can a charge wizard intellipower be used with a gell type battery , or
configured to charge gells , where as a gell battery wants less charging voltage
and no equalizing ?
Chris
Oliver Filippi wrote:
> reduce the charge rate as the battery reaches a full charge. It also can
> tell if the battery is overheating and reduces its charge rate. When the
> battery is fully charged, the converter backs off to a lower voltage to
> prevent overcharging and boiling off electrolyte.
>
> However, a fully charged battery on a light "trickle" charge can actually
> lose some of its capacity (and charge)due to electrolyte stratification
> (where the electrolyte separates into different concentrations of acidity at
> different levels within the battery. To prevent this, the Charge Wizard
> causes the converter to up the voltage "and stir up the electrolyte" by
> executing a 15 minute or so higher voltage charge every day or two.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 12:24:59 -0500
From: les gioja <lgioja2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Introduction
Hi,
My name is Les Gioja. I live in Champaign, Illinois and have a
1967 Airstream. Nearly everything in it is original, but
practically nothing works. I joined the group to find advice
concerning restoring or upgrading it.
Les
________________________________________________
Get your own "800" number
Voicemail, fax, email, and a lot more
http://www.ureach.com/reg/tag
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:03:21 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Introduction
> Hi,
>
> My name is Les Gioja. I live in Champaign, Illinois and have a
> 1967 Airstream. Nearly everything in it is original, but
> practically nothing works. I joined the group to find advice
> concerning restoring or upgrading it.
>
> Les
Hi Les:
Wecome aboard. What model '67 do you have? Lots of '67 owners on this
list. We feel your pain <grin>
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 14:43:31 -0800
From: "Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt New converter gel battery compatible
> Can a charge wizard intellipower be used with a gell type battery , or
> configured to charge gells , where as a gell battery wants less charging
voltage
> and no equalizing ?
> Chris
>
Chris,
I don't think so. And there were no instructions for Gel batteries that came
with the Intellipower unit.
There are other brands of converter which have a setting (switch) for use
with Gel batteries. (Gel's charging characteristics are a little different
from standard lead/acid batteries) I cannot recall the brand(s) but one
comes in a bright yellow case and has the 3 stage charging already built in
(no need for a Charge Wizard type device).
Oliver Filippi
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:43:55 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Battery controller(s)
Oliver - seems logical to contact Progressive - I'll let you know what
develops.
Jo Ann
On Thursday, November 13, 2003, at 09:58 PM, Oliver Filippi wrote:
> I am not familiar with the circuitry in the Intellipower/Charge
> Wizard. You
> might try e-mailing or calling Progressive Dynamics (the manufacturer)
> http://www.progressivedyn,com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 21:18:30 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Introduction
Welcome, Les.
Ask away, you've come to the right place.
Daisy
les gioja wrote:
> Hi,
>
> My name is Les Gioja. I live in Champaign, Illinois and have a
> 1967 Airstream. Nearly everything in it is original, but
> practically nothing works. I joined the group to find advice
> concerning restoring or upgrading it.
>
> Les
>
> ________________________________________________
> Get your own "800" number
> Voicemail, fax, email, and a lot more
> http://www.ureach.com/reg/tag
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #67
************************
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