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VAL Digest V1 #66



VAL Digest          Friday, November 14 2003          Volume 01 : Number 066




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Polisher info
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
[VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
[VAL] inverter/ univolt
Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS
Re: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.
Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
Re: [VAL] tailight wire question
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65
Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt
[VAL] Battery controller(s)
Re: [VAL] Battery controller(s)

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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:36:38 EST
From: Streamliner86@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Polisher info

Does anyone know of a firm that does polishing in the Tampa FL or Long Island 
NY?
Thanks ....Phil K.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 06:56:12 -0800 (PST)
From: TERRY ROCKFIELD <tarockfield@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65

Tom. 
  My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the univolt replaced.  
My Battery will not  stay charged. I have no readings on my control panel for voltage and 
current.  Does any one have any ideas what might be the problem ?. 
 
 Incorrectly wiring in the new Univolt was mentioned as a possible cause. 
 
 I do not have a wiring diagram that is specific,  having wire color codes, or in detail 
enought that I can use it for trouble shooting. I may make one from the existing circuits 
and analyse it for defientcies.  Thanks TARockfield  member # 02868
VAL Digest <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:

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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 10:22:47 -0800
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65

Michelle here, also have a 71 25' Land Yacht. My converter charger was shot
so I replaced it with an ordinary
battery charger and so far so good. Re your battery not staying charged,
have you checked to make sure the battery
is good, fluid level is full? A next step could be to find out what is
draining the battery by disconnecting everything
and reconnecting things one at a time. The fuse panel is a good way to
disconnect things. Find out if the battery
will hold a charge with nothing hooked up. You need a VOM (volt ohm) meter
to troubleshoot the electrical.
imho,
best,
Michelle

"People will forget what you said. People will forget what you do. People
will never forget how you made them feel."

Tom.
  My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
univolt replaced.  My Battery will not  stay charged. I have no readings on
my control panel for voltage and current.  Does any one have any ideas what
might be the problem ?.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:39:32 -0600
From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65

This may sound over simplified but did you check the 120 volt breaker 
in the entrance fuse panel?
It could have tripped.
Dean


On Nov 13, 2003, at 8:56 AM, TERRY ROCKFIELD wrote:

Tom.
   My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the 
univolt replaced.  My Battery will not  stay charged. I have no 
readings on my control panel for voltage and current.  Does any one 
have any ideas what might be the problem ?.

  Incorrectly wiring in the new Univolt was mentioned as a possible 
cause.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 12:21:50 EST
From: RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.

Hello, We have a '65 Airstream Trade Wind Twin 24' and we'd like to remove 
the crudded up black watertank and replace it with both a grey water holding 
tank and a black water tank. Has anyone done this and how tough is it? Who can 
supply the tanks? Thanks, Stuart and Bonnie Resor. 760-753-8022. 

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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:31:30 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS

Yes, we are all electric.  I am trying to get info on what the best way to
outfit our 69 caravel.  I understand that heating it off shore may be
impossible in winter.  However, I wish to set up the airstream to provide
the most electric power as propane is out of the question.
Thanks for any info
Dan
14148
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Clark" <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS


> Jim :
> Are you all electric ??
>
> Jim Clark
>
>
> At 08:42 PM 11/12/2003, you wrote:
> >I use a 4kva honda generator on the toung of my tradewinf and it handles
the
> >load quite well
> >Jim Smith
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:42:38 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] inverter/ univolt

Going all electric.

My question is that my 69 caravel has a univolt with 15 on the side.  Is this
a 15 amp univolt.  I know that on inland's parts list that they sell a 55 amp.
My lights dim when all are on and i turn on the range vent.  Does this mean
that my univolt system can not keep up with the power usage.
Should I change to the larger  55.   Will it charge the battery faster?
Dan
14148

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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 12:01:15 -0600
From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS

If you are going to try to heat it in the winter from Shore Power you
may want to change your fuse panel to a 240 volt 60 amp service.
Then only stay at the better camp grounds that can supply your
power needs.


Thank you
Dean L.
866-206-5962

On Nov 13, 2003, at 11:31 AM, Dan Childress wrote:

Yes, we are all electric.  I am trying to get info on what the best way 
to
outfit our 69 caravel.  I understand that heating it off shore may be

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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:47:44 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tailight wire question

on my 63 , there are 4 wires going back from the access in front . the factory
had a cute way of labeling them ,by tieing knots in them , no knot ,1,2,3 ,
knots in each since they are all red . I have three hooked up and have all the
functions brake lights ,turns running lights etc. Whats the fourth one for? or
is something hooked up wrong in my truck (works fine on other trailer .)
Also , when perusing the champion trailers excellent tech info , I noticed they
claim the electric brakes should have the ground direct to truck ,without being
grounded to trailer ,which is different than I have done in past , I always
grounded to white wire in access area , and added an extra for good measure .
Why wouldnt it be grounded to trailer ?
Also how many amps is the circuit breaker for the brakes ,mines to rusty to
tell ...
Chris 63 flying cloud , making progress

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:01:05 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: INVERTERS

I found the heatstrip in my AC worked fime in temps in the low 40s I am not 
going any where were the temp gets lower.
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:17:49 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Converting to grey/black waste system.

I have a 65 tradewid double rear bath.when I installed a new floor in the 
bath I replaced the black tank with a tank for both black and gray water.I 
fabricated the tank to fit between the frame rails and dived it so one end is gray 
and has its own dump valve.the plumong is in the bumper compartment I made both 
the bumper compartment and tamk 8in deep the tank is 24in Xthe distance 
between the frame rails .It is devideded very close to the toilet. the tenk is 
bonded to the floor. works for me but trook a lot of engineering to pull it off.
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:09:32 -0600
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tailight wire question

Greetings Chris!

> on my 63 , there are 4 wires going back from the access in front . the
factory
> had a cute way of labeling them ,by tieing knots in them , no knot ,1,2,3
,
> knots in each since they are all red . I have three hooked up and have all
the
> functions brake lights ,turns running lights etc. Whats the fourth one
for? or
> is something hooked up wrong in my truck (works fine on other trailer .)

I can't say with great certainty, but I suspect that the extra wire may be
for the optional backup lights.  I know this was an option in '64 and assume
that they were in '63 as well.  The literature that came with my '64 made
mention that the backup lights were available as a factory installed or
dealer installed option which leads me to believe that the wire must have
been placed in all trailers even if the option was specified at the time of
purchase.  I have considered checkin in my Overlander as I really like the
backup lights on my Minuet - - not so much that they help me  - - rather
their ability to warn approaching drivers when I back my trailer into the
side driveway at my house (I live on the main approach route for our
hospital's emergency room so there is quite often unexpected traffic on the
street).

Good luck with solving the riddle of the extra wire!

Kevin

Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado (Towcar-In-Training)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:36:39 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tailight wire question

> on my 63 , there are 4 wires going back from the access in front . the
factory
> had a cute way of labeling them ,by tieing knots in them , no knot ,1,2,3
,
> knots in each since they are all red . I have three hooked up and have all
the
> functions brake lights ,turns running lights etc. Whats the fourth one
for? or
> is something hooked up wrong in my truck (works fine on other trailer .)
> Also , when perusing the champion trailers excellent tech info , I noticed
they
> claim the electric brakes should have the ground direct to truck ,without
being
> grounded to trailer ,which is different than I have done in past , I
always
> grounded to white wire in access area , and added an extra for good
measure .
> Why wouldnt it be grounded to trailer ?
> Also how many amps is the circuit breaker for the brakes ,mines to rusty
to
> tell ...
> Chris 63 flying cloud , making progress

Hey Chris:

I have a diagram called TRAILER-CAR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR that pretty much
shows where all wires go from the 7-pin connector each way for the '67 model
year.  I wouldn't expect it to be much different 4 years earlier.

Want me to scan it and send it to you?

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 00:25:45 +0000
From: satdjpete@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #65

  Pete Here,
        as someone said earlier be sure your 110 breaker is on.
  Any electrical problem is easier if you start at the inputs and go to the outputs you 
will need a 110 tester of somekind ac dc vom cheap at any auto parts store. You will also 
need a 12v dc tester thus the ac dc vom.
  Next go to the input of your univolt make sure you have 110vac at the Black and white 
wires ie" coming from you breaker. if you have it then go to your outputs of your univolt 
they go to the battery see if you have 12v dc. be sure your battery is disconected that way 
you only read what your univolt is puting out.
  If when you hook up you battery the voltage drops suddenly you may have a bad battery.  
           Hope this is of some help!!!
                                     Pete Highlands
                                     WBCCI 6385
                                     n3rlj
                                     1968 TW 24T
> Michelle here, also have a 71 25' Land Yacht. My converter charger was shot
> so I replaced it with an ordinary
> battery charger and so far so good. Re your battery not staying charged,
> have you checked to make sure the battery
> is good, fluid level is full? A next step could be to find out what is
> draining the battery by disconnecting everything
> and reconnecting things one at a time. The fuse panel is a good way to
> disconnect things. Find out if the battery
> will hold a charge with nothing hooked up. You need a VOM (volt ohm) meter
> to troubleshoot the electrical.
> imho,
> best,
> Michelle
> 
> "People will forget what you said. People will forget what you do. People
> will never forget how you made them feel."
> 
> Tom.
>   My 1971 AS overlander 27 twin beds. has according to inland had the
> univolt replaced.  My Battery will not  stay charged. I have no readings on
> my control panel for voltage and current.  Does any one have any ideas what
> might be the problem ?.
> 

> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:58:22 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt

There are better battery charging and power pack devices than Univolts.
Schuereman recommends some in the archives. Their names escape me. Old
Univolts have tended to overcharge batteries or the have failed
completely.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:10:44 -0800
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] inverter/ univolt

"Intelli-Power" with the "Charge-Wizard" accessory - often on sale at
Camping World.

I have a couple of MagnaTek converters, which i believe are the modern
incarnation of the UniVolt, but they don't have a 'smart-charger' component.

tuna
reno, nv

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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:05:16 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Battery controller(s)

I intend to install an Intelli Power converter and Charge Wizard in my 
rebuilt Bubble. Also a diode hookup to tow vehicle that will charge on 
the go - will the Charge Wizard monitor that input as well?
    The solar panels - another charge controller? or will one unit do it 
all? This is a total of 3 separate inputs to the batteries so one 
charge controller?
Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:58:25 -0800
From: "Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Battery controller(s)

Joann,

I am not familiar with the circuitry in the Intellipower/Charge Wizard.  You
might try e-mailing or calling Progressive Dynamics (the manufacturer)
http://www.progressivedyn,com

East coast ((MI) 8-5 EST)  sales mgr: Ron Mill (269) 781-4241

West coast ((CA) 3-5 PST) sales mgr: Dave Dykehouse (805) 693-0421


My guess is that the Charge Wizard will monitor the VOLTAGE  from the
battery (or batteries) to determine the charging rate. It could also monitor
the current from the charger or the load on the converter.

It will handle multiple 12 volt batteries in parallel.  Therefore, if you
left your tow vehicle electrically connected to the trailer with the tow
vehicle engine off  and NO diode in the line to the tow vehicle, the
Intellipower would charge both batteries, assuming either was in need of a
charge. I don't think the batteries have to be exactly the same.

However, the diode will likely foul things up, since it is usually installed
to prevent current flow from the tow vehicle's battery to the trailer
battery circuit when the tow vehicle engine is off. Thus the voltage reading
the Charge Wizard would get from the tow vehicle's battery would be zero
volts and would likely cause the converter to assume that one of the
batteries was dead (or did not exist) and therfore either go into full
charge mode (at least until the trailer's battery was fully charged) or a
charge mode relavent to the condition of the trailer battery .

Your best bet would be to write to Progressive Dynamics with a proposed
circuit diagram of the diode location and get their opinion.

Good luck, and let me know your response.

Oliver Filippi

> I intend to install an Intelli Power converter and Charge Wizard in my
> rebuilt Bubble. Also a diode hookup to tow vehicle that will charge on
> the go - will the Charge Wizard monitor that input as well?
>     The solar panels - another charge controller? or will one unit do it
> all? This is a total of 3 separate inputs to the batteries so one
> charge controller?
> Jo Ann
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #66
************************


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