The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #58
VAL Digest Thursday, November 6 2003 Volume 01 : Number 058
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] More about those awnings...
[VAL] Re:12 volt question
Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
[VAL] Vent Fan
Re: [VAL] Vent Fan
[VAL] water problem
RE: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Re: [VAL] Questions
Re: [VAL] Questions
Re: [VAL] Vent Fan
Re: [VAL] Vent Fan
Re: [VAL] Questions
Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Re: [VAL] Tow Auto
Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Re: [VAL] Questions
Re: [VAL] Tow Auto
Re: [VAL] Re: scare light
Re: [VAL] Tow-yota
Re: [VAL] Switch by door
RE: [VAL] Questions
Re: [VAL] More about those awnings...
RE: [VAL] Questions
[VAL] 5th Annual California Fall Rally - Duncans Mills
RE: [VAL] Switch by door
Re: [VAL] Switch by door
RE: [VAL] Switch by door
Re: [VAL] Switch by door
Re: [VAL] Switch by door
[VAL] Curtis Wright Information please
Re: [VAL] Digester chemical?
Re: [VAL] Switch by door
Re: [VAL] Switch by door
[VAL] RE: Questions about 1953 A/S
[VAL] RE: Weatherstripping
Re: [VAL] Questions
Re: [VAL] Switch by door
RE: [VAL] Switch by door
Re: [VAL] Curtis Wright Industries info.
Re: [VAL] Switch by door
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 00:00:27 -0800
From: "Stephanie Roberts" <stefrobrts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] More about those awnings...
> Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 09:18:26 EST
> From: MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject:
>
> Stephanie,
> The awnings do look great! I still have a question--what is
> supporting them?
> I'm also not sure what you mean by clips--some kind of plastic
> (binder-like)
> clips? What did they attach to?
> Thanks!
> Mary
>
Hi Mary,
The awning fabric is about two inches wider than the window, which leaves an
inch to wrap around each edge. Then I slide a small plastic binder clip from
the office supply store over the fabric, so it grips the edge of the window
frame (which is under the fabric). We got a whole weeks use out of them in
the mountains this summer on one trip, and they stayed up just fine the
whole time. I'll add a picture to my website when I get a chance of the
awnings installed with the clips to make it clearer. Might be a couple weeks
before I get a chance though. I'll let you know.
Stephanie
Battle Ground, WA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 06:05:16 -0500
From: "David Turner" <jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Hello:
I have a '58 Airstream Custom 20' and I want to install a new battery.What
does the battery operate in this model?It looks like the lights are all 110v
and it has a lp gas light in the gally area.
It has a water pump I hope the battery will run it.
The battery is long and narrow.size is 19-1/4" long x 4-1/4" wide x 9" tall
and it has [6] caps for water with the pos and neg post.
Is this a 12volt or 6volt?
Thanks for any info.
David Turner
jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 08:15:42 -0500
From: "Myrna Warren" <uncleneal@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Six caps is 12 volts. Water pump should be 12 volts, also.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Turner" <jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:05 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
> Hello:
> I have a '58 Airstream Custom 20' and I want to install a new battery.What
> does the battery operate in this model?It looks like the lights are all
110v
> and it has a lp gas light in the gally area.
> It has a water pump I hope the battery will run it.
> The battery is long and narrow.size is 19-1/4" long x 4-1/4" wide x 9"
tall
> and it has [6] caps for water with the pos and neg post.
> Is this a 12volt or 6volt?
> Thanks for any info.
> David Turner
> jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 07:24:36 -0600
From: dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
6 caps = 12 VDC
3 caps = 6 VDC
On Nov 5, 2003, at 5:05 AM, David Turner wrote:
> Hello:
> I have a '58 Airstream Custom 20' and I want to install a new
> battery.What
> does the battery operate in this model?It looks like the lights are
> all 110v
> and it has a lp gas light in the gally area.
> It has a water pump I hope the battery will run it.
> The battery is long and narrow.size is 19-1/4" long x 4-1/4" wide x 9"
> tall
> and it has [6] caps for water with the pos and neg post.
> Is this a 12volt or 6volt?
> Thanks for any info.
> David Turner
> jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 09:46:39 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
David,
If any of your light fixtures have 2 standard sized bulbs in them, one of
them will be 12V. Normally at least one light will be set up this way. Other
12V items found in my '60 are a vent fan (switchable from A/C to D/C), a
small porch light, the furnace fan - which yours won't have unless the
furnace has been updated and the pump. You also have the option of adding
12V power plugs if you wish.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Turner" <jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:05 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
> Hello:
> I have a '58 Airstream Custom 20' and I want to install a new battery.What
> does the battery operate in this model?It looks like the lights are all
110v
> and it has a lp gas light in the gally area.
> It has a water pump I hope the battery will run it.
> The battery is long and narrow.size is 19-1/4" long x 4-1/4" wide x 9"
tall
> and it has [6] caps for water with the pos and neg post.
> Is this a 12volt or 6volt?
> Thanks for any info.
> David Turner
> jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 10:22:18 -0500
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Vent Fan
Interesting, how do you switch your vent fan from AC to DC?
Jim
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
> David,
>
> If any of your light fixtures have 2 standard sized bulbs in them, one of
> them will be 12V. Normally at least one light will be set up this way.
Other
> 12V items found in my '60 are a vent fan (switchable from A/C to D/C), a
> small porch light, the furnace fan - which yours won't have unless the
> furnace has been updated and the pump. You also have the option of adding
> 12V power plugs if you wish.
>
> Scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Turner" <jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:05 AM
> Subject: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
>
>
> > Hello:
> > I have a '58 Airstream Custom 20' and I want to install a new
battery.What
> > does the battery operate in this model?It looks like the lights are all
> 110v
> > and it has a lp gas light in the gally area.
> > It has a water pump I hope the battery will run it.
> > The battery is long and narrow.size is 19-1/4" long x 4-1/4" wide x 9"
> tall
> > and it has [6] caps for water with the pos and neg post.
> > Is this a 12volt or 6volt?
> > Thanks for any info.
> > David Turner
> > jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 10:40:11 -0800
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent Fan
> Interesting, how do you switch your vent fan from AC to DC?
> Jim
Jim,
My 59 Ambassador International also has a vent fan that runs on AC or DC. In
DC mode it operates on 12v DC. There is a small transformer located next to
the fan motor which converts 110 v AC into 18v AC which also operates the
fan. There is a three way switch with AC DC designations. The fan for the
furnace also operates this way. Probably "state of the art" in a 1959 travel
trailer, but it is an Airstream after all.
Colin
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 10:45:56 -0500
From: "Chris Herring" <cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] water problem
I just noticed that my '59 Tradewind has a leak in the bathroom. Water is
somehow getting in and is visible in bottom of shower pan. This is a rear
bath model. I can't detect any moisture coming down wall during rainfall.
I have been working on it the past few months and have never even used the
shower, nor has it ever had any water in the system. I can't detect the
water coming in anywhere else, it just makes a small pool in bottom of pan.
Any suggestions on how I can determine where the water is getting in so that
I can fix it asap? I just noticed this happening recently.
Thanks to everyone for the weatherstripping info yesterday.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 07:52:16 -0800
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
It's a tractor battery, David. Still available at farm supply stores or
battery places such as Interstate. If you want to use the box mounted
on the front of the trailer, you have no choice other than to use that
type.
Options include mounting a new battery storage box on the tongue spicing
in a new lead down to it, and using the old box as storage. Try to get
the aluminum style boxes (hot-rod accessory), as the plastic ones fail
from UV exposure (straps & latches). Mounting the battery under the bed
nest to an access door requires a little more work as it involves tie
downs and venting.
Best of luck,
RJ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 3:05 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
>
>
> Hello:
> I have a '58 Airstream Custom 20' and I want to install a new
> battery.What
> does the battery operate in this model?It looks like the
> lights are all 110v
> and it has a lp gas light in the gally area.
> It has a water pump I hope the battery will run it.
> The battery is long and narrow.size is 19-1/4" long x 4-1/4"
> wide x 9" tall
> and it has [6] caps for water with the pos and neg post.
> Is this a 12volt or 6volt?
> Thanks for any info.
> David Turner
> jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 07:59:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Questions
Anyone?
Chris Tognetti
Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
Hello All,
I have just gotten my hands on a 19 foot 1953 Airstream. Currently I am deciding if I
should buy it and restore it. It has sat for the last few years and is currently in
need of repairs. I have found some floor rot by the door and it does look like the
shell is dropping as in a couple of spaces I see the frame cutting through at the bottom
edge.
I have restore an old pop up and built my own addition to my house so I have the skills.
I have check the FAQ at the vintage web site so I have a few ideas of what to look for.
Here are a couple of my questions.
With the main problems I just listed what do you consider it worth. My the way it has all
the original appliances and beds inside. Some of the outside decals have been looted by
others while it sat. Last time it was used the owner said the propane worked. Sat for at
least two years.
What other problems should I be looking for?
There are two pipes that sit in front of the tires what are they for?
If we decide to restore I'll be sure to ask plenty of question on this list.
Anything that I should read up on?
Chris
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 11:29:55 -0800
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Questions
> With the main problems I just listed what do you consider it worth. >
> There are two pipes that sit in front of the tires what are they for?
> Anything that I should read up on?
Chris,
Check out www.vintageairstream.com go to "restoration resources" then down
to "price vs condition" This should answer most of your questions.
The two pipes ahead of the axle are for the "stinky slinky". I have them on
my 59 Ambassador as well. I think they were an option.
Colin
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 11:31:59 -0500
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent Fan
Thankyou, my 63 sob also has a small transformer next to the fan motors, but
no provision for switching to 12 volt. I wish it did! I'm still wondering
why a step down transformer was put there, if there is no way to run it off
the battery.
Jim
61 Bambi
63 Avion
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent Fan
> > Interesting, how do you switch your vent fan from AC to DC?
> > Jim
>
> Jim,
> My 59 Ambassador International also has a vent fan that runs on AC or DC.
In
> DC mode it operates on 12v DC. There is a small transformer located next
to
> the fan motor which converts 110 v AC into 18v AC which also operates the
> fan. There is a three way switch with AC DC designations. The fan for the
> furnace also operates this way. Probably "state of the art" in a 1959
travel
> trailer, but it is an Airstream after all.
> Colin
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 11:42:55 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vent Fan
Jim, Colin is correct. Remember that this was in the day before univolts!
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 10:22 AM
Subject: [VAL] Vent Fan
> Interesting, how do you switch your vent fan from AC to DC?
> Jim
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 11:48:23 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Questions
Chris,
It sounds like if you choose to go ahead with the resto you will have your
hands full for a while. Sounds as if it may be a "frame off" resto so keep
that in mind when making an offer. But, if you are good you should have a
beautiful trailer that is not often seen on the road - even at Vintage
Airstream Rallies.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Tognetti" <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> I have just gotten my hands on a 19 foot 1953 Airstream. Currently I am
deciding if I should buy it and restore it. It has sat for the last few
years and is currently in need of repairs. I have found some floor rot by
the door and it does look like the shell is dropping as in a couple of
spaces I see the frame cutting through at the bottom edge.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2003 10:55:31 -0600
From: "William Durkee" <bdkli@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
> Hello:
>I have a '58 Airstream Custom 20' and I want to install a new battery.What
>does the battery operate in this model?
One thing the battery may operate is the emergency brake away. (The extra
wire attached to the hitch as a safety device.) It works this way in late
60's models and newer.
Bill
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2003 11:13:46 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Battery type 3EE or 3ET. 12 volts. Used on 60's vintage JD farm tractors
and earlier in Packard cars. Expensive for the capacity. Some 70s era JD
farm tractors used the 3EH, 6 volts in pairs. I've seen 3EH at Sam's
club, I've heard 3EE are in some, but not where I looked.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 12:52:41 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tow Auto
The Burb weighs in a little more than the truck.
Also if you have just a 1/2 ton truck regular cab short bed, which is around
119 wheelbase.
That makes a difference to, especially in ride comfort.
The wheel base on the 1/2 ton Burb is around 136 inches.
I myself prefer 4X4's for the extra weight up front, plus getting in/out of
some places.
Bobby Gill
1988 Chevy K1500 shortbed 4X4
2002 Chevy Suburban 4X4 (wife's taxi)
Valdosta, GA
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: OWCONEU
Question ???
Why is it not good pull and have safe control with
a 1/2 ton Chevy pickup but a !/2 ton Burb is Great?
They are the same frame brakes and motor.
Dean
> I have pulled my 1976 31' Sovereign from Houston to both coasts, in and
> around Texas and up to Colorado with my 99 1/2 ton Suburban without any
> problems. Passed a few 3/4 tons along the way.
>
> Don Hardman
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 13:00:44 -0500
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
Batteries Plus is a chain outlet in many cities and can get these batteries
if not in stock. The 3ET has the higher capacity and weighs 5lbs. more than
the 3EE. 600 ca and 125 min. vs. 480 ca and 90 min. (The batteries are
listed under tractor batteries at their web site.)
Jim
PS This old battery design worked great for me on my recent 2 month, 15000
mile road trip. Just don't run it down too low, too often.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:12 volt question
> Battery type 3EE or 3ET. 12 volts. Used on 60's vintage JD farm tractors
> and earlier in Packard cars. Expensive for the capacity. Some 70s era JD
> farm tractors used the 3EH, 6 volts in pairs. I've seen 3EH at Sam's
> club, I've heard 3EE are in some, but not where I looked.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 10:17:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Questions
Scott,
I figured that I would need to remove everything and replace the floor. While I only see
one spot which has rotten through I understand the can of worms these thing usually turn
into. The site Clyde gave help out with the pricing. I have a spot to start with and
things to show the person. I plan to start cleaning the trail out of all the camping
equipment that was left in it and then do a better look over. I still need to fix the
wiring as the connection were stolen. Only thing I have done was move it to my driveway
and kill a few wasp nest. Set up is different to what I'm use to.
In front you have a couch that works as the dinenet. Then just behind the door is the
fridge and closet and on the other side is the stove and sink. Next comes two couches that
form a bed and above them is two single beds that fold up. In the rear is the bath room
which seems to have a shower. Plus closet.
The wife seems up for it. If I don't have to remove the shell from the frame I might be able
to get it travel ready by spring with some wishful thinking. Not fully restored but useable
I hope. With two young children the pop up just doesn't cut it anymore. To much time setting
up and breaking down.
Chris
Scott Scheuermann <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net> wrote:
Chris,
It sounds like if you choose to go ahead with the resto you will have your
hands full for a while. Sounds as if it may be a "frame off" resto so keep
that in mind when making an offer. But, if you are good you should have a
beautiful trailer that is not often seen on the road - even at Vintage
Airstream Rallies.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Tognetti"
> I have just gotten my hands on a 19 foot 1953 Airstream. Currently I am
deciding if I should buy it and restore it. It has sat for the last few
years and is currently in need of repairs. I have found some floor rot by
the door and it does look like the shell is dropping as in a couple of
spaces I see the frame cutting through at the bottom edge.
- ---------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 13:16:48 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tow Auto
You will LOVE it!
When we were car shopping last year I convinced a dealer to let me test drive
while towing my
1973 29 foot Ambassador. This was the main determining factor in what we would
buy.
I was able to try a Durango (terrible), Tahoe/Yukon (2WD and 4WD, both ok),
Suburban 1500 and 2500
2WD/4WD models. The Suburban won out, but I did not notice much difference in
either 1500 or 2500.
Yes I liked the 2500 (bigger is better thinking), but for all practical
purposes the 1500 4WD model fit our needs and does what we want, tow in
comfort. It's also my wife's daily driver so gas mileage played a little part,
but not a real factor.
I have an 88 Chevy 4X4 with the 5.7 and the Suburban with the 5.3 seems to do
better.
I know the rear ends have different gears 3.42 in truck, 3.73 in Suburban,
which makes a difference.
The 3.73 gear is better. We like going to the mountains in north Georgia and
the 1500 4WD Suburban does great. Trips to Texas and Arkansas was no problem.
Even better than when we used to have to take 2 vehicles, I drove in peace and
quite in my regular cab truck while the wife and kids followed in the mini
van.
Bobby
Valdosta, GA
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: ULHPQQW
On Nov 3, 2003, at 10:24 AM, BuzzHacker@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> I got me one of them 31' 1973 beast of an Airstream
>
> Just purchased a 2000 Suburban 4 wheel drive 5.3 V8 to yank it
>
> Should i be scared?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jamie
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 13:19:34 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: scare light
Daisy
Seal the lens.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: GMEPYOQKEDOTWF
i've been thinking about putting a fish in there, it has enough water....
Daisy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 13:28:56 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tow-yota
Wyn
I'd go with the Sequoia.
You'll appreciate having the extra weight to control the trailer plus the 6
extra inches on the wheelbase, will make the ride smoother. You may want to
ask the dealer to let you test drive it while towing your trailer.
I did that last year since towing was the major factor in vehicle selection.
Bobby Gill
1973 Ambassador
2002 Suburban 1500 4X4
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: MVRESKPNKMBI
To: 'valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com'
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 2:16 PM
Subject: [VAL] Tow-yota
Greetings,
I have a 1965 Globe Trotter and am exploring tow-vehicle options. I've had
wonderful experience with Toyota products in the past so I'm looking at the
04 V8 4-Runner and the 04 Sequoia as possible candidates. If anyone has
personal experience towing with either of these vehicles, or general
knowledge about pulling Airstreams that you would like to share, I would
love to get your input. Here are the relevant specs:
Globe Trotter
length - 20 ft.
hitch weight - 370 lbs.
trailer weight - 2900 lbs.
4-Runner
hp - 235
torque - 320 lb-ft
width - 73.8 "
length - 190 "
wheelbase - 109.8"
curb weight - 4500 lbs.
towing capacity - 7300 lbs.
cup holders - 4
Sequoia
hp - 240
torque - 315 lb-ft
width - 78 "
length - 203.9 "
wheelbase - 118.1"
curb weight - 5270 lbs.
towing capacity - 6200 lbs.
cup holders - 10
Family
size - 3
wife - 4' 10"
total family weight - 355 lbs.
Thanks in advance,
Wyn
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 13:38:52 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
On my '73 Ambassador there is a switch forward of the window by the door that
works the flood light.
By the door are two switches, one operates the porch light, the other operates
the light over the sink.
For the sink light to be turned off by the one next to the door, the sink
light switch must be on.
Then I can turn it off/on by the switch next to the door.
It's nice when you go out at night and can turn it on when you return.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: RZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLM
There is an additional switch on the other side of the front window to turn
on the external spot light. So I am still at questioning the first switch
next to the door.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 10:51:21 -0800
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Questions
Sounds like it is a 22 foot Safari - what's the serial #? Does the
window use levers or cranks? From the description, I'd say it is near
the middle of my price guide for "As Found", unless it happens to be on
the west coast (higher). The bunk bed option is much sought after.
One caution I always give everyone, get or have a good usable trailer
the first time around, and then get a "project" trailer. A 1950's
trailer will always take much longer to get going, let alone restore,
than you think. Many people get overwhelmed during that time, as it
never seems to end.
If you want to see what a trailer looks like without a floor, but with
the shell on, go to:
http://vintageairstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/59WorldTraveler.ht
ml
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 10:18 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Questions
>
>
> Scott,
>
> I figured that I would need to remove everything and replace
> the floor. While I only see one spot which has rotten
> through I understand the can of worms these thing usually
> turn into. The site Clyde gave help out with the pricing. I
> have a spot to start with and things to show the person. I
> plan to start cleaning the trail out of all the camping
> equipment that was left in it and then do a better look over.
> I still need to fix the wiring as the connection were
> stolen. Only thing I have done was move it to my driveway
> and kill a few wasp nest. Set up is different to what I'm use to.
>
> In front you have a couch that works as the dinenet. Then
> just behind the door is the fridge and closet and on the
> other side is the stove and sink. Next comes two couches
> that form a bed and above them is two single beds that fold
> up. In the rear is the bath room which seems to have a
> shower. Plus closet.
>
> The wife seems up for it. If I don't have to remove the
> shell from the frame I might be able to get it travel ready
> by spring with some wishful thinking. Not fully restored but
> useable I hope. With two young children the pop up just
> doesn't cut it anymore. To much time setting up and breaking down.
>
> Chris
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 15:00:19 -0500
From: "Elisa" <vxn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] More about those awnings...
Could you repost the original link to the photos of these awnings? Thanks,
Elisa
76 Argosy 20
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 12:09:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Questions
Looks almost like that one except single axle. When I get home tonight I have to see if I
can get any info off of it to see what it is for sure. The windows use cranks.
As for a usable trailer I have an old pop-up that I have restored and modified that we
currently use.
Chris
RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
Sounds like it is a 22 foot Safari - what's the serial #? Does the
window use levers or cranks? From the description, I'd say it is near
the middle of my price guide for "As Found", unless it happens to be on
the west coast (higher). The bunk bed option is much sought after.
One caution I always give everyone, get or have a good usable trailer
the first time around, and then get a "project" trailer. A 1950's
trailer will always take much longer to get going, let alone restore,
than you think. Many people get overwhelmed during that time, as it
never seems to end.
If you want to see what a trailer looks like without a floor, but with
the shell on, go to:
http://vintageairstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/59WorldTraveler.ht
ml
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 10:18 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Questions
>
>
> Scott,
>
> I figured that I would need to remove everything and replace
> the floor. While I only see one spot which has rotten
> through I understand the can of worms these thing usually
> turn into. The site Clyde gave help out with the pricing. I
> have a spot to start with and things to show the person. I
> plan to start cleaning the trail out of all the camping
> equipment that was left in it and then do a better look over.
> I still need to fix the wiring as the connection were
> stolen. Only thing I have done was move it to my driveway
> and kill a few wasp nest. Set up is different to what I'm use to.
>
> In front you have a couch that works as the dinenet. Then
> just behind the door is the fridge and closet and on the
> other side is the stove and sink. Next comes two couches
> that form a bed and above them is two single beds that fold
> up. In the rear is the bath room which seems to have a
> shower. Plus closet.
>
> The wife seems up for it. If I don't have to remove the
> shell from the frame I might be able to get it travel ready
> by spring with some wishful thinking. Not fully restored but
> useable I hope. With two young children the pop up just
> doesn't cut it anymore. To much time setting up and breaking down.
>
> Chris
- ---------------------------------
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- -----------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 13:08:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] 5th Annual California Fall Rally - Duncans Mills
Rally report now available on the VAC Site!
http://www.airstream.net/rallies/03-duncans_mills/
Thanks!
Toby Folwick
VAC Webmaster
__________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 16:50:40 -0700
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
I've been following this thread, and it seems that I am the only one who
mentioned a switch above their door (67 Tradewind) that turns on power
to the water pump. Is this unique? I assume all A/S's have a switch
for the pump somewhere -- you wouldn't want it running if the tank was
empty.
Best Regards,
Jim
jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> On Behalf Of gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 11:39 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
>
> On my '73 Ambassador there is a switch forward of the window by the
door
> that
> works the flood light.
> By the door are two switches, one operates the porch light, the other
> operates
> the light over the sink.
> For the sink light to be turned off by the one next to the door, the
sink
> light switch must be on.
> Then I can turn it off/on by the switch next to the door.
> It's nice when you go out at night and can turn it on when you return.
> Bobby
> ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom: RZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLM
> There is an additional switch on the other side of the front window
to
> turn
> on the external spot light. So I am still at questioning the first
> switch
> next to the door.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 19:00:46 -0500
From: "Nick Novia" <nnovia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
I have a water pump switch too...but now I forget where it is! <g>
Nick
'68 Safari
#2577
WDCU
VAC
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:50 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
> I've been following this thread, and it seems that I am the only one who
> mentioned a switch above their door (67 Tradewind) that turns on power
> to the water pump. Is this unique? I assume all A/S's have a switch
> for the pump somewhere -- you wouldn't want it running if the tank was
> empty.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
>
> jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> > On Behalf Of gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 11:39 AM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
> >
> > On my '73 Ambassador there is a switch forward of the window by the
> door
> > that
> > works the flood light.
> > By the door are two switches, one operates the porch light, the other
> > operates
> > the light over the sink.
> > For the sink light to be turned off by the one next to the door, the
> sink
> > light switch must be on.
> > Then I can turn it off/on by the switch next to the door.
> > It's nice when you go out at night and can turn it on when you return.
> > Bobby
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > Wrom: RZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLM
> > There is an additional switch on the other side of the front window
> to
> > turn
> > on the external spot light. So I am still at questioning the first
> > switch
> > next to the door.
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
> text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 16:16:39 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
From: Amanda Meeker <goldens510@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
On my '68 Safari, the water pump switch is on the Master Control panel. Like others here,
the switch above the door is for the overhead light, and the next one forward from that,
over the window, is the outside light (I seem to be the only person who actually likes that
"scare light"!)
Best,
Amanda
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cooper <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Nov 5, 2003 3:50 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
I've been following this thread, and it seems that I am the only one who
mentioned a switch above their door (67 Tradewind) that turns on power
to the water pump. Is this unique? I assume all A/S's have a switch
for the pump somewhere -- you wouldn't want it running if the tank was
empty.
Best Regards,
Jim
jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 19:23:02 -0500
From: "Nick Novia" <nnovia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
Yes Amanda...me too!
NN
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Amanda Meeker" <goldens510@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 7:16 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
> On my '68 Safari, the water pump switch is on the Master Control panel.
Like others here, the switch above the door is for the overhead light, and
the next one forward from that, over the window, is the outside light (I
seem to be the only person who actually likes that "scare light"!)
>
> Best,
>
> Amanda
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Cooper <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Nov 5, 2003 3:50 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
>
> I've been following this thread, and it seems that I am the only one who
> mentioned a switch above their door (67 Tradewind) that turns on power
> to the water pump. Is this unique? I assume all A/S's have a switch
> for the pump somewhere -- you wouldn't want it running if the tank was
> empty.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
>
> jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 00:54:06 +0000
From: satdjpete@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
Me too!
Put me in coach I like the highbeam on the side of my 68 TW. My water pump switch is on
my control panel also.
while looking through some of the pictures I saw a GMC safari van
(ASTRO) How does it tow. I plan on useing mine for my 24ft Tradewind Im told it should do
fine the vehicle weighs in at 5100 lbs w/trailering package and it has hauled a 24 ft
Bayliner cabin cruiser for yrs. 4.3liter engine w/700r4 trans. I did haul a 17ft caravel
To Mass from Pittsburgh PA. anyone w/any experience with the combination GMC or ASTRO and
24ft TW???
Pete Highlands
> Yes Amanda...me too!
>
> NN
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Amanda Meeker" <goldens510@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 7:16 PM
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
>
>
> > On my '68 Safari, the water pump switch is on the Master Control panel.
> Like others here, the switch above the door is for the overhead light, and
> the next one forward from that, over the window, is the outside light (I
> seem to be the only person who actually likes that "scare light"!)
> >
> > Best,
> >
> > Amanda
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jim Cooper <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Sent: Nov 5, 2003 3:50 PM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
> >
> > I've been following this thread, and it seems that I am the only one who
> > mentioned a switch above their door (67 Tradewind) that turns on power
> > to the water pump. Is this unique? I assume all A/S's have a switch
> > for the pump somewhere -- you wouldn't want it running if the tank was
> > empty.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> > Jim
> >
> > jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 18:57:43 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Curtis Wright Information please
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Patterson
To: Vintage Airstream List
Cc: doug@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:52 PM
Subject: Curtis Wright Information please
I replied to a question from Doug Keister, photographer of the "Ready To Roll"
book which came out in September, about the Curtis (or Curtiss) Wright
trailers, referring him to several trailer ads on my site which referred to
Curtis Wright Industries.
I also note the following quote from the VAC Fredericksburg 2000 rally program
which reads:
"During World War II, Wally Byam the founder of Airstream was forced to close
up shop and take a job with Curtiss-Wright. As the war wound down, he went to
top management and convinced them that he and they together should build
trailers after the war. Thus as the war closed in 1945, Engineers were
assigned to designing this trailer under the guidance of Wally. The first
examples were sold as Curtiss-Wrights in 1946. Within months Wally tired of
the arrangement and negotiated a new contract under which Curtiss-Wright could
sell the trailer, but Wally could too, only he called his an Airstream. They
were identical. C-W never found it very profitable and in June of 1949 sold
their interests to partners which called their trailer the Silver Streak."
The question Doug is now raising is whether these trailers were Curtis
Wrights, or were they Curtiss Wrights? Clouding the issue is that while there
was a Glen Curtiss, who is the Curtiss of Curtiss Wright which does get
referred to as single "s" Curtis Wright all over the place, there is also a
separate unrelated individual by the name of Curtis Wright, who was involved
in aircraft development in the mid-forties, and who also apparently built some
trailers. (http://www.aerofiles.com/_cu.html).
The ad that I referred Doug to was the trailer ad at:
http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/Ads2.html. It has only the single
"S" in the name. The Curtiss Wright Corporation does however have two "S's".
A copy of the share certificate can be found at:
http://us.st3.yimg.com/store5.yimg.com/I/scripophily_1763_207933445.
Is there anyone who can definitively settle the issue? Anyone with maybe a
Curtis(s?) Wright trailer with a nameplate which gives the name one way or the
other?
Doug is looking for information to settle this issue, as he is coming out with
another book....... "Silver Palaces", which will be out next year, and he
needs to be in to the printer by the end of this year.
- -Tom
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 17:10:06 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Digester chemical?
Ah Grasshopper - you have achieved wisdom. Thanks Paul.
Jo Ann
On Tuesday, November 4, 2003, at 09:25 PM, <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> Jo Ann,
> Though I know of all the problems of traveling with the tank full, if
> you
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 20:21:19 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
Nick, it's on the control panel.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Novia" <nnovia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
> I have a water pump switch too...but now I forget where it is! <g>
>
> Nick
> '68 Safari
> #2577
> WDCU
> VAC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:50 PM
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
>
>
> > I've been following this thread, and it seems that I am the only one who
> > mentioned a switch above their door (67 Tradewind) that turns on power
> > to the water pump. Is this unique? I assume all A/S's have a switch
> > for the pump somewhere -- you wouldn't want it running if the tank was
> > empty.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> > Jim
> >
> > jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> >
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> > > On Behalf Of gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 11:39 AM
> > > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > > Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
> > >
> > > On my '73 Ambassador there is a switch forward of the window by the
> > door
> > > that
> > > works the flood light.
> > > By the door are two switches, one operates the porch light, the other
> > > operates
> > > the light over the sink.
> > > For the sink light to be turned off by the one next to the door, the
> > sink
> > > light switch must be on.
> > > Then I can turn it off/on by the switch next to the door.
> > > It's nice when you go out at night and can turn it on when you return.
> > > Bobby
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > Wrom: RZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLM
> > > There is an additional switch on the other side of the front window
> > to
> > > turn
> > > on the external spot light. So I am still at questioning the first
> > > switch
> > > next to the door.
> > >
> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
> > text
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 20:29:52 -0500
From: "Nick Novia" <nnovia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
Oh yes...I remember. I haven't even visited my rig in months. I just
bought a new home. I will be moving my AS in January..start working on
it...is my plan!
NN
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
> Nick, it's on the control panel.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nick Novia" <nnovia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 7:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
>
>
> > I have a water pump switch too...but now I forget where it is! <g>
> >
> > Nick
> > '68 Safari
> > #2577
> > WDCU
> > VAC
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:50 PM
> > Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
> >
> >
> > > I've been following this thread, and it seems that I am the only one
who
> > > mentioned a switch above their door (67 Tradewind) that turns on power
> > > to the water pump. Is this unique? I assume all A/S's have a switch
> > > for the pump somewhere -- you wouldn't want it running if the tank was
> > > empty.
> > >
> > > Best Regards,
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > > [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> > > > On Behalf Of gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 11:39 AM
> > > > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > > > Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
> > > >
> > > > On my '73 Ambassador there is a switch forward of the window by the
> > > door
> > > > that
> > > > works the flood light.
> > > > By the door are two switches, one operates the porch light, the
other
> > > > operates
> > > > the light over the sink.
> > > > For the sink light to be turned off by the one next to the door, the
> > > sink
> > > > light switch must be on.
> > > > Then I can turn it off/on by the switch next to the door.
> > > > It's nice when you go out at night and can turn it on when you
return.
> > > > Bobby
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > Wrom: RZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLM
> > > > There is an additional switch on the other side of the front
window
> > > to
> > > > turn
> > > > on the external spot light. So I am still at questioning the
first
> > > > switch
> > > > next to the door.
> > > >
> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
> > > text
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > > > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> > >
> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 22:30:57 EST
From: Okydokey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] RE: Questions about 1953 A/S
Hi Chris, congratulations on your find. Regarding the spots where the frame
is sticking through the lower section, I was told it is from the underbelly
being stretched so tightly over the frame outriggers and just rubbing through
over time, so it may not be quite as bad as you think.
p.s. you aren't related to anyone in MI by chance are you?
Good Luck,
Jason
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 22:33:26 EST
From: Okydokey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] RE: Weatherstripping
Airstream Dreams might have what you need or one of the VAC members, Richard
Rodriguez, was advertising some in the want ads section of the VAC site.
Jason
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2003 22:33:18 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Questions
Hey Chris,
I don't know about the real oldies as for fixing up. However. I think
you might be better off with less of a restoration project and more of
an immediate gratification. You ought to be able to get a 70's trailer
for less than $5,000, that you can actually get out there and camp
within weeks instead of months or even years.
I don't think the frame of that trailer can take all the comforts that
would be nice, like gray and black water tanks, lots of lights and
outlets. I'm trying to think about 2 kids in there. I did two kids in
their OWN tent. but then I'm a grandmother now.
I remember being the mom, and kids are a lot of work, and camping with
kids is even more work. I'm not sure that this trailer is gonna be a
huge improvement on the pop up. And not useable for a long time. And
probably will cost as much to fix as a ready to roll 70's model.
Daisy ( restored a 1740's cape while living in it.....)
Chris Tognetti wrote:
> Scott,
>
> I figured that I would need to remove everything and replace the floor. While I only see
> one spot which has rotten through I understand the can of worms these thing usually turn into.
> The site Clyde gave help out with the pricing. I have a spot to start with and things to show
> the person. I plan to start cleaning the trail out of all the camping equipment that was left
> in it and then do a better look over. I still need to fix the wiring as the connection were
> stolen. Only thing I have done was move it to my driveway and kill a few wasp nest. Set up is
> different to what I'm use to.
>
> In front you have a couch that works as the dinenet. Then just behind the door is the fridge
> and closet and on the other side is the stove and sink. Next comes two couches that form a bed
> and above them is two single beds that fold up. In the rear is the bath room which seems to have
> a shower. Plus closet.
>
> The wife seems up for it. If I don't have to remove the shell from the frame I might be able
> to get it travel ready by spring with some wishful thinking. Not fully restored but useable I hope.
> With two young children the pop up just doesn't cut it anymore. To much time setting up and breaking
> down.
>
> Chris
>
>
> Scott Scheuermann <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net> wrote:
> Chris,
>
> It sounds like if you choose to go ahead with the resto you will have your
> hands full for a while. Sounds as if it may be a "frame off" resto so keep
> that in mind when making an offer. But, if you are good you should have a
> beautiful trailer that is not often seen on the road - even at Vintage
> Airstream Rallies.
>
> Scott
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Tognetti"
>
>
>>I have just gotten my hands on a 19 foot 1953 Airstream. Currently I am
>
> deciding if I should buy it and restore it. It has sat for the last few
> years and is currently in need of repairs. I have found some floor rot by
> the door and it does look like the shell is dropping as in a couple of
> spaces I see the frame cutting through at the bottom edge.
>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 22:36:16 EST
From: M1492@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
my 67 safari has pump switch above fridge op door
switch above door works center lite
porch lite switch on wall in front of door
Mark
67 safari
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2003 22:00:38 -0600
From: "William Durkee" <bdkli@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Switch by door
Jim,
Just wanted to let you know that the pump switch is up front in the command
center. The switch for the flood light is next to the window. It seems
that the switch by the door should operate either the middle light in the
trailer or the light over the sink. I guess my real question is do the
wires for this switch hook directly to the light, or do they run through the
command center? (for a 69 Sovereign)
you wouldn't want it running if the tank was
>empty.
>
>Best Regards,
> Jim
>
_________________________________________________________________
Great deals on high-speed Internet access as low as $26.95.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2003 21:35:46 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtis Wright Industries info.
Tom:
The correct name of the trailer manufacturer that Wally
Byam worked for immediately after WW II is Curtis Wright
Industries with one "s". That company is named after its
founder, an individual "Curtis Wright". It has no known
relationship to the company formed from the WW I era merger
of Glenn
Curtiss and the Wright Brothers aircraft interests.
The description from the VAC Fredericksburg 2000 rally
program is incorrect, and its original source, Bud Cooper,
has now revised his data to reflect the correct company name
having a single "s" in Curtis and "Industries" instead of
"Corporation."
The correct name "Curtis Wright Industries" appears in
many contemporary (1947) magazine ads showing the new C-W
"Clipper" model trailers. Additionally, there is a short
article titled "Wright Enters Third Year" beginning on page
55 in the July 1946 issue of Trail-R-News magazine
discussing Curtis Wright Industries' trailer production,
which began with "homosote" trailers in 1944. The earliest
magazine ad I am presently aware of for the all aluminum C-W
Clipper appeared on page 85 in the February 1947 issue of
Trail-R-News magazine.
As a general historical research rule, primary source
materials such as contemporary magazine ads and articles are
usually far more reliable than secondary source materials
such as general descriptions published more than 50 years
later.
To help document his caption or description, Doug may
wish to include in his new book a small photograph of a
Curtis Wright Industries data oe serial number tag besides
the photo(s) of a C-W Clipper aluminum trailer.
Fred Coldwell
VAC Archive Historian
Tom Patterson wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tom Patterson
> To: Vintage Airstream List
> Cc: doug@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:52 PM
> Subject: Curtis Wright Information please
>
> I replied to a question from Doug Keister, photographer of the "Ready To Roll"
> book which came out in September, about the Curtis (or Curtiss) Wright
> trailers, referring him to several trailer ads on my site which referred to
> Curtis Wright Industries.
>
> I also note the following quote from the VAC Fredericksburg 2000 rally program
> which reads:
>
> "During World War II, Wally Byam the founder of Airstream was forced to close
> up shop and take a job with Curtiss-Wright. As the war wound down, he went to
> top management and convinced them that he and they together should build
> trailers after the war. Thus as the war closed in 1945, Engineers were
> assigned to designing this trailer under the guidance of Wally. The first
> examples were sold as Curtiss-Wrights in 1946. Within months Wally tired of
> the arrangement and negotiated a new contract under which Curtiss-Wright could
> sell the trailer, but Wally could too, only he called his an Airstream. They
> were identical. C-W never found it very profitable and in June of 1949 sold
> their interests to partners which called their trailer the Silver Streak."
>
> The question Doug is now raising is whether these trailers were Curtis
> Wrights, or were they Curtiss Wrights? Clouding the issue is that while there
> was a Glen Curtiss, who is the Curtiss of Curtiss Wright which does get
> referred to as single "s" Curtis Wright all over the place, there is also a
> separate unrelated individual by the name of Curtis Wright, who was involved
> in aircraft development in the mid-forties, and who also apparently built some
> trailers. (http://www.aerofiles.com/_cu.html).
>
> The ad that I referred Doug to was the trailer ad at:
> http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/Ads2.html. It has only the single
> "S" in the name. The Curtiss Wright Corporation does however have two "S's".
> A copy of the share certificate can be found at:
> http://us.st3.yimg.com/store5.yimg.com/I/scripophily_1763_207933445.
>
> Is there anyone who can definitively settle the issue? Anyone with maybe a
> Curtis(s?) Wright trailer with a nameplate which gives the name one way or the
> other?
>
> Doug is looking for information to settle this issue, as he is coming out with
> another book....... "Silver Palaces", which will be out next year, and he
> needs to be in to the printer by the end of this year.
>
> -Tom
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2003 23:18:05 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door
Remember that the command center was not included in the 17' Caravel so
our switches aren't grouped. I think my water pump switch is near the
kitchen sink. The owner's manual often forgets that detail too.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #58
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