VAL Digest V1 #57

VAL Digest         Wednesday, November 5 2003         Volume 01 : Number 057




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] Tow Auto
[VAL] More about those awnings...
Re: [VAL] Tow Auto
[VAL] Questions
[VAL] Re: Switch by door
Re: [VAL] Switch by door
Re: [VAL] Re: Switch by door
Re: [VAL] Re: Switch by door -- another idea
[VAL] Tow-yota
[VAL] rubber weatherstripping
Re: [VAL] rubber weatherstripping
Re: [VAL] rubber weatherstripping
Re: [VAL] Tow-yota
[VAL] Switch by door.
[VAL] Digester chemical?
Re: [VAL] Re: scare light
Re: [VAL] Digester chemical?
Re: [VAL] Digester chemical?

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Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 08:04:44 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tow Auto

> Hope that is a 3/4 burb.   The 1/2 ton may be a little light.

I have pulled my 1976 31' Sovereign from Houston to both coasts, in and
around Texas and up to Colorado with my 99 1/2 ton Suburban without any
problems. Passed a few 3/4 tons along the way.

Don Hardman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 09:18:26 EST
From: MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] More about those awnings...

Stephanie,

The awnings do look great!  I still have a question--what is supporting them? 
 I'm also not sure what you mean by clips--some kind of plastic (binder-like) 
clips? What did they attach to?

Thanks!

Mary

In a message dated 11/4/2003 1:02:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
> Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 00:27:26 -0600
> From: John Schubert <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] New Member
>
> Nice Caravel Stephanie, can you tell me how you made those cool window
> awnings?
>
> John

Hi John, I got some outdoor canvas at the fabric store and sewed them up
myself. I took a piece about two inches wider than the window, and 8 inches
longer. I took the 8 inches, which hung over the bottom of the window and
folded it up to make a pocket about 3 inches deep for the bottom of the
window to slip into. Then I just slip it onto the window and hold it on with
some plastic clips I got from the office supply store. They hold it on
securely, but gently, because I was worried about breaking the glass if I
used anything that held on too tight. I also put a little elastic loop at
the top corner of each awning and loop it around the arm that raises the
window, so if it blows off it won't blow away. So far they haven't blown
off. And they look pretty snazzy :-)

Stephanie
Battle Ground, WA

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Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 08:19:13 -0600
From: dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tow Auto

Question ???
Why is it not good pull and have safe control with
a 1/2 ton Chevy pickup but a !/2 ton Burb is Great?
They are the same frame brakes and motor.

Dean

On Nov 4, 2003, at 8:04 AM, Don Hardman wrote:

>> Hope that is a 3/4 burb.   The 1/2 ton may be a little light.
>
> I have pulled my 1976 31' Sovereign from Houston to both coasts, in and
> around Texas and up to Colorado with my 99 1/2 ton Suburban without any
> problems. Passed a few 3/4 tons along the way.
>
> Don Hardman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 06:43:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Questions

Hello All,
 
I have just gotten my hands on a 19 foot 1953 Airstream.  Currently I am deciding if I 
should buy it and restore it.  It has sat for the last few years and is currently in 
need of repairs.  I have found some floor rot by the door and it does look like the 
shell is dropping as in a couple of spaces I see the frame cutting through at the bottom 
edge.
 
I have restore an old pop up and built my own addition to my house so I have the skills.  
I have check the FAQ at the vintage web site so I have a few ideas of what to look for.  
Here are a couple of my questions.
 
With the main problems I just listed what do you consider it worth.  My the way it has 
all the original appliances and beds inside.  Some of the outside decals have been looted 
by others while it sat.  Last time it was used the owner said the propane worked.  Sat for 
at least two years.
 
What other problems should I be looking for?
 
There are two pipes that sit in front of the tires what are they for?
 
If we decide to restore I'll be sure to ask plenty of question on this list.
 
Anything that I should read up on?
 
Chris 



- ---------------------------------
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Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard

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Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 08:19:12 -0800
From: "Steve Boyd" <Steve.Boyd@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Switch by door

Hi All,

I previously owned a 1969 Overlander (27'), which had the two switch set 
up as described by Dean yesterday.

<On my 1970 27ft unit the first sw is for the outside over the door light
<The second switch is for the top light over the couch and table.

Our friend Andy at Inland RV told me this outside light is called a 
"scare light" (FWIW).  

I currently own a 1968 Caravel (17') which has only one switch near the 
door, this operating the scare light.  Personally, I'd rather have a 
switch for one of the overhead lights located in that position, and plan 
to add one someday.  I agree with those of you who find the scare light 
virtually useless for anything except blinding me and annoying anybody 
within 50 yards of my rig. I'm surprised there wasn't some sort of shade 
produced by Airstream to knock some of the light downward enough to 
prevent total blindness yet still provide useful lighting around the 
door area.  I think part of the "blinding" problem is the clear lens 
which covers the light.  It is a fresnel lens and obviously designed for 
concentrating light and projecting it straight outward.  Good for a 
back-up light, lousy for a porch light. Perhaps Dr. J could address 
modifications to the fresnel lens design which could achieve a better 
downward projection pattern without resorting to an exterior shad 
attachment.  I have vague, nightmarish memories of light refraction and 
lenses from college physics, but any math beyond add, subtract, or 
multiply fries my circuits these days.

Steve Boyd, Botanist
Riverside, CA
Caravel '68

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Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 09:40:07 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Switch by door

> Almost a worthless light as all it dose is to shine in your eyes as you
> walk up.  It needed something better to direct the light down.


Several years ago we decided to have Thanksgiving at a regional park near
here.  Twas the night before and near bedtime when I heard a slight
scuffling noise outside.  I turned on said "porch light" and at the outer
perimeter of light saw a huge raccoon disappearing into the bushes dragging
the cooler with our partly thawed turkey in it.  My eyeballs did a cartoon
"Ooo-gah" but I was able to retrieve the bird after a brief chase and lock
it up in the back of my truck.  Next day I found muddy "hand" prints all
over the camper shell.

One of the only times I have ever used that light.  The switch for it is
forward of the small window next to the door..

There is another switch above the door that operates the center overhead
light.


GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

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Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 12:17:42 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Switch by door

A scare light it does by its brightness.

My optics experiments leading to designs tended to have failed. But I'd
try a sheet of teflon inside as a diffuser, maybe 5 or 10 mils thick. It
would also act as an attenuator. I used that thin sheet of teflon in
front of lamps in a city council voting display once. A few layers of
waxed paper might work for a trial, but wouldn't stand the lamp's heat.
Replacing the fresnel lens with a disk of thin white plexiglas would
work too but be more diffusing than the teflon behind the existing lens
and would change the appearance more. I suppose one might replace the
existing lens with a piece from the perimeter of a large (say 12" or so)
fresnel lens to refract light downward. Or carve some lexan or plexiglas
into a coarse fresnel, more like a series of prisms all leaning the same
direction. Let me know what's tried and what works.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 12:48:33 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Switch by door -- another idea

Or a larger version of the prism negative lens that used to be sold to
be placed on a car or truck dash to see overhead traffic lights out from
under an outside sun visor. Mount it thick edge down to convert the
scare light into a ground flood. The negative lens will spread the beam
and the prism will tilt it. Not having ever measured the surfaces of
such a lens I can only presume that they are spherical. I haven't
noticed such a lens in quite some time, but its not something that
before this design challenge I'd have made note of.

Gerald
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 11:16:04 -0800 
From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
Subject: [VAL] Tow-yota

Greetings,
I have a 1965 Globe Trotter and am exploring tow-vehicle options. I've had
wonderful experience with Toyota products in the past so I'm looking at the
04 V8 4-Runner and the 04 Sequoia as possible candidates. If anyone has
personal experience towing with either of these vehicles, or general
knowledge about pulling Airstreams that you would like to share, I would
love to get your input. Here are the relevant specs:

Globe Trotter
length - 20 ft.
hitch weight - 370 lbs.
trailer weight - 2900 lbs.

4-Runner
hp - 235
torque - 320 lb-ft
width - 73.8 "
length - 190 "
wheelbase - 109.8"
curb weight - 4500 lbs.
towing capacity - 7300 lbs.
cup holders - 4
 
Sequoia
hp - 240
torque - 315 lb-ft
width - 78 "
length - 203.9 "
wheelbase - 118.1"
curb weight - 5270 lbs.
towing capacity - 6200 lbs.
cup holders - 10

Family
size - 3
wife - 4' 10"
total family weight - 355 lbs. 

Thanks in advance,
Wyn

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 15:01:50 -0500
From: "Chris Herring" <cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] rubber weatherstripping

Has anyone purchased rubber weatherstripping from JC Whitney for '59-60
Airstream? If so, would you please share details as to what I need? I looked
at the diagrams and can't determine which is correct. I need
weatherstripping for door and for the screen door within the door.

Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 16:12:19 -0800
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] rubber weatherstripping

> Has anyone purchased rubber weatherstripping from JC Whitney for '59-60
> Airstream? If so, would you please share details as to what I need? I
looked
> at the diagrams and can't determine which is correct. I need
> weatherstripping for door and for the screen door within the door.

Chris,
I bought some peel & stick weather stripping from Advance Auto made by 3M
for the door of my 59 Ambassador. It is very similar to what was on there
originally. The part # is 08651NA. It is 5/8" thick X 1/2" wide X 8' long.
You need 2 packs for the door and 1 for the screen door. There were a few
posts on this subject a month or so ago which did not recommend peel & stick
and I haven't installed it yet so I'm not really sure how long it will work.
The shape was good though.
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 17:16:46 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] rubber weatherstripping

I put a self stick D gasket on the door of my '68 Caravel more than a
year ago. I bought it from McMaster-Carr. I think it was about 5/8"
wide. It has stayed stuck well there and I've not detected any leaks. I
used something like it around the rim of the tailgate of my truck and it
hasn't stayed there as well.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 20:21:40 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tow-yota

Wyn, I would opt for the Sequoia since it has the longer wheelbase. It will
handle the trailer better in crosswinds and may reduce the need for sway
control.

Scott

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 2:16 PM
Subject: [VAL] Tow-yota


> Greetings,
> I have a 1965 Globe Trotter and am exploring tow-vehicle options. I've had
> wonderful experience with Toyota products in the past so I'm looking at
the
> 04 V8 4-Runner and the 04 Sequoia as possible candidates.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 20:07:48 -0600
From: "Faith Navarro" <Beshway1@MC2K.com>
Subject: [VAL] Switch by door.

In our 1974 Land Yacht, we have 2 switches there by the door ,one for the
outside light and the other is for a light over
the kitchen sink, in front of the window.
It is very handy as we don't have to enter a darkened trailer but also doesn't
shine so bright as to awaken others that might be asleep.
                                            Faith and Frank Navarro
                                             Seligman, Missouri

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 15:14:30 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Digester chemical?

A question arises because my rebuilding project is to the point of 
ordering the holding tanks:
      If the opening from the toilet into the waste tank is directly 
above one end of the tank and that is also the deepest part of the tank 
(the tank tapers from the shallow end to the deeper end) what does one 
need to do to ensure that there is not a buildup of fecal matter in the 
deep end near the drain? I remember a message not too long ago that 
discussed use of some chemical that reduced all the waste contents into 
a slurry. What is that chemical and how effective is it. For physical 
constraints of the frame frame placement, I can't locate the tank with 
the shallow end under the toilet.
  Help............
Jo Ann Wheatley

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 21:32:32 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: scare light

i've been thinking about putting a fish in there, it has enough water....

Daisy

Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote:

> A scare light it does by its brightness.
> 
> My optics experiments leading to designs tended to have failed. But I'd
> try a sheet of teflon inside as a diffuser, maybe 5 or 10 mils thick. It
> would also act as an attenuator. I used that thin sheet of teflon in
> front of lamps in a city council voting display once. A few layers of
> waxed paper might work for a trial, but wouldn't stand the lamp's heat.
> Replacing the fresnel lens with a disk of thin white plexiglas would
> work too but be more diffusing than the teflon behind the existing lens
> and would change the appearance more. I suppose one might replace the
> existing lens with a piece from the perimeter of a large (say 12" or so)
> fresnel lens to refract light downward. Or carve some lexan or plexiglas
> into a coarse fresnel, more like a series of prisms all leaning the same
> direction. Let me know what's tried and what works.
> 
> Gerald J.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 21:33:39 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Digester chemical?

Most any digester chemical will work along with the proper operating
technique. That's to hold liquid and solid waste until the tank is
nearly full, especially when connected to a sewer pipe, that way the
liquid waste can soften the solids over away from the drain and all
drain together. If you are connected with the drain open all the time,
solids won't get far from the drain, but some will not hit the drain and
when they dry in place its a pain (takes a spray wand down or up and
softener stuff, lots of work) to soften them again. Just dump when the
tank is near full and solids aren't a problem.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 00:25:38 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Digester chemical?

Jo Ann,

Though I know of all the problems of traveling with the tank full, if you
just drive down the road 10-20 miles, all breaks down, and will
fly right out. Then, close the tank, add five gallons of water, open,
and all is clean, rinsed and ready to go! If you are worried about the
weight of the water in the tank while traveling the first 10-20 miles,
before leaving the campsite, dump as much as possible. Close the
tank, put about 2 1/2 pounds of bag ice down the commode, drive
to your next stop, by the time you stop, the ice will have moved around
breaking all the stuff into a slush, add a little more water and down she
goes!

Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC/WDCU

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 6:14 PM
Subject: [VAL] Digester chemical?


>       If the opening from the toilet into the waste tank is directly
> above one end of the tank and that is also the deepest part of the tank
> (the tank tapers from the shallow end to the deeper end) what does one
> need to do to ensure that there is not a buildup of fecal matter in the
> deep end near the drain? I remember a message not too long ago that
> discussed use of some chemical that reduced all the waste contents into
> a slurry.
>   Help............
> Jo Ann Wheatley

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #57
************************


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