The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #51
VAL Digest Thursday, October 30 2003 Volume 01 : Number 051
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Waste Water Tank Questions
Re: [VAL] Waste Water Tank Questions
[VAL] Re: Refrigerator panels
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #50
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #50
RE: [VAL] Waste Water Tank Questions
Re: [VAL] Waste Water Tank Questions
Re: [VAL]bath redo
RE: [VAL]bath redo
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #35 - Weighing In
Re: [VAL]bath redo
Re: [VAL] hitch lock
Re: [VAL] Floor Joining Questions
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 08:45:46 -0500
From: "Elisa" <vxn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Waste Water Tank Questions
Hello to All:
I have a 1976 20' Argosy which seems to have the gray AND black waste water
valves not working; they appear to be stuck open. The waste pipe terminates
at the left end of my rear bumper, and there is a valve there that DOES
work. However, if I open that one and close either or both of the separate
gray and black valves, the waste comes out. In other words, if the kitchen
faucets are on, that kitchen water will come out even if the gray valve is
closed. Same thing for the toilet flush water and black valve. The only
valve holding any of this back is the end valve on the bumper, where the
slinky gets attached.
I would like to be able to drain the gray water without draining the black
water and vice versa. Please advise how to fix this.
Thank you so much,
Elisa in Sullivan County, NY - where Winter is around the corner :(
1976 20' Argosy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 09:24:44 EST
From: JAuman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Waste Water Tank Questions
I have a 75 25' Airstream and I bet the two trailer's construction is just
about the same. Sounds like someone added the third valve. I just replaced my
valves on both the black water and the gray water tanks. Its a hard job because
you have to cut out the bottom of the trailer and saw out the plastic drain
pipes and get new valves. You have to get under the trailer to do this job.
Material costs about $45.00. When the new valves are replaced you then just have
to get a new piece of aluminum and close the bottom of the trailer back up.
Sounds like the rubber seals on your valves are just worn out. Its not an easy
job. jauman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:56:31 -0700
From: Steve Boyd <steve.boyd@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Refrigerator panels
Mike,
Not sure if this is what you need, but check under the interior door
seal for additional screws. You have to pull back the rubber material
to get at them. I went through this to repair cracked interior plastic
panel.
Steve Boyd
'68 Caravel
Riverside, CA
> Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:33:19 EST
> From: GRUBBYACRE@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] REFRIGERATOR PANELS
>
> I Think this is where I write to to have my question sent to the VAC
> list...
> if not, let me know..
> I have been trying to remove my top and bottom holding rails on my
> refrigerator doors. I removed all the screws. The area near them wiggles
> a little but
> something seems to be holding them (one each and every strip) fast in
> the
> center. I can't see anything and I don't want to force it and maybe
> break the
> plastic. I even went so far as to call the Domitec Techs.. and they
> said.. just
> remove the screws and it will come right off... No way. Has anyone else
> had this
> problem and sloved it??? Thanks Mike
>
> - ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 14:55:21 EST
> From: GRUBBYACRE@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] REFRIGERATOR PANELS
>
> I forgot to mention... I am trying to replace the front panels on the
> refrigerator doors...
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 09:57:48 EST
From: Streamliner86@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #50
Does any one know if Red Neck Trailer Parts has a web site ?I have looked but
no luck so far
Phil
Coram L.I.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 10:17:15 EST
From: GeorgeCAtl@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #50
Here you go:
http://www.redneck-trailer.com/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 12:57:16 -0500
From: "Robert Cornute" <ccornut1@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Waste Water Tank Questions
Elisa; sounds to me like your gate valves on the Black & Grey water
tanks need replacing or minimally they need to be disassembled and
cleaned. There is a guillotine blade which closes to shut the valve when
the plunger is pushed in to the closed position this needs to be
checked. Good Luck with this project, once you get the valves out of the
system you can tell which way you need to go.
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Elisa
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 8:46 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Waste Water Tank Questions
Hello to All:
I have a 1976 20' Argosy which seems to have the gray AND black waste
water
valves not working; they appear to be stuck open. The waste pipe
terminates
at the left end of my rear bumper, and there is a valve there that DOES
work. However, if I open that one and close either or both of the
separate
gray and black valves, the waste comes out. In other words, if the
kitchen
faucets are on, that kitchen water will come out even if the gray valve
is
closed. Same thing for the toilet flush water and black valve. The
only
valve holding any of this back is the end valve on the bumper, where the
slinky gets attached.
I would like to be able to drain the gray water without draining the
black
water and vice versa. Please advise how to fix this.
Thank you so much,
Elisa in Sullivan County, NY - where Winter is around the corner :(
1976 20' Argosy
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 13:13:38 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Waste Water Tank Questions
Hmmm thats interesting - I just replaced my valves and it was'nt too bad
- - the rear sheet attaches to the rear bumper and mid way underneath the
back - whole sections came out fairly easy - I reattached with screws so I
can remove it in less than five minutes. I also took a sawsall to the
existing plumbing and removed it all. Sounds like you got away cheap - my
two valves cost close to $100. With the back bumper removed - you can do
the whole job from the back.
Ken J.
5358
75 Tradewind
At 09:24 AM 10/29/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a 75 25' Airstream and I bet the two trailer's construction is just
>about the same. Sounds like someone added the third valve. I just replaced my
>valves on both the black water and the gray water tanks. Its a hard job
>because
>you have to cut out the bottom of the trailer and saw out the plastic drain
>pipes and get new valves. You have to get under the trailer to do this job.
>Material costs about $45.00. When the new valves are replaced you then
>just have
>to get a new piece of aluminum and close the bottom of the trailer back up.
>Sounds like the rubber seals on your valves are just worn out. Its not an
>easy
>job. jauman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 13:12:49 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL]bath redo
I haven't been able to open the page on your web-site. Any ideas?
Jo Ann
On Wednesday, October 22, 2003, at 07:12 AM, Lynn Evans wrote:
> I just put the info on the steps I took to refinish my whole bath on my
> A/S stie in case it helps.
> http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/dew1.htm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 19:51:01 -0500
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL]bath redo
I sent the info off list for ya!
If I wasn't so obsessed with the A/S I would work on the website!!!
Priorities!!
Lexxy/aka/Lynn
[Alexis Lynn] in Augusta Ga.
'67 Safari ...the never ending story!
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/dewdrop.htm
>I haven't been able to open the page on your web-site. Any
>ideas? Jo Ann On Wednesday, October 22, 2003, at 07:12 AM,
>Lynn Evans wrote:
>
>> I just put the info on the steps I took to refinish my whole bath on
>> my A/S stie in case it helps. http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/dew1.htm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 19:40:21 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #35 - Weighing In
Wow: good info. Thanks. this goes in my "save" file. jw
On Wednesday, October 15, 2003, at 05:27 AM, waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> There are many open, unattended weigh stations in Oregon. It appears to
> be the policy of ORDOT to leave them open and turned on all the
> time......etc
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 20:53:47 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL]bath redo
Thanks again - I did stop at an A/S dealer on Sunday a.m. and checked
out the
new Bambi CCD or whatever it was called @ $34K+. I didn't like the
floor plan at all but the little bathroom was nifty. wonder if I can
get that new shower pan directly from A/S?
Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:25:26 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] hitch lock
I know this is a rather "old" thread, given our lightning reflexes
around here, but I looked at the Guardian web site (loved the Doberman
dog image) and my trailer tongue looks more like the second one, the
sheet metal or lever type - are the 57's different from what you had
been discussing?
Jo Ann
On Thursday, October 23, 2003, at 11:03 PM, Dash7 (Michigan) wrote:
> Airstream does use a coupler that has a rolled lip around the front
> edge and
> the only place I could find a coupler lock to fit was at the local AS
> dealer. Its model G-37 made by Guardian Industries in Tulsa OK and
> it fits
> over the lip and covers the bottom of the coupler. I think I paid
> around
> $45 for in last July. Guardians web site is at
>
> http://www.guardianhitch.com/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:40:32 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Floor Joining Questions
Jim:
Please speak English in responding to this site. I am about to
undertake the same chore and not too sure about "spline" in this
instance. Does the spline go into the grove or what.
Jo Ann
On Saturday, October 18, 2003, at 04:30 PM, JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> This old boat builder would route a 1/4 in grove in both sheets and
> cut a 1/4
> in plywood spline ansepoxy the spline and sheets of plywood togeather.
> Jim Smith
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #51
************************
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|