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VAL Digest V1 #362



VAL Digest          Monday, September 6 2004          Volume 01 : Number 362




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint? - progress report
Re: [VAL] Jack Story
[VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint
[VAL] Furnace Fan Won't Shut Off
Re: [VAL] Furnace Fan Won't Shut Off
Re: [VAL] Jack Story
Re: [VAL] Jack Story
Re: [VAL] Furnace Fan Won't Shut Off

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 06:16:25 -0600
From: Royce <rkkessler@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint? - progress report

On Saturday 04 September 2004 09:11 pm, John Sellers wrote:
> Gang,
....
> I am keenly aware of the objection to steel wool that it can leave
> particles of steel wool in the finish which will eventually rust.
...
> I'm hoping that using the steel wool wet with paint 
> stripper and lacquer thinner, and washing off the debris, will get rid
> of most of the steel wool particles. 

John,

From personal experience I have to tell you that steel wool used with plenty 
of water on stainless steel will still leave particles that rust. Hope the 
same is not true for aluminum.

Royce


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 09:18:35 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Jack Story

Hi Gary:
  I'd like to see your jack cover picture please. I put an electric jack 
on my Bubble and have been extremely pleased with it but a cover is a 
really good idea.
Jo Ann

On 4, Sep 2004, at 4:43 PM, Gary Quamen wrote:

> Howdy folks:
>
> I finally installed my electric jack yesterday.  As is usually the 
> case, it
> didn't go exactly as I planned.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 13:32:59 -0700
From: "Arlen & Shirley" <globetrotter64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint

John,

I had a trailer I was considering stripping so I contacted Napier, the maker
of the removal product, that everyone has such high recommendation for.  I
ended up not doing the project so I did not buy any of the stripper but I
thought the info they passed on might be helpful.

Napier makes many types of paint strippers.  Some are good to use on
Aluminum and some are for wood etc.  They did not recommend using their
aerosol product on an Airstream.

Here are the products they recommended for stripping clear coat or paint off
an Airstream (or any aluminum).

Removal All 220 - Brush  grade good for an Airstream
Removal All 210 - Airless spray grade  (ICI paints labels this Hydrostrip
502)
Removal All SV35PMA - Airless spray grade approved for use on aluminum
aircraft   - Fine for Airstreams too.

Note: Spray grade takes an airless sprayer to apply.

The following places can order the 220 or the 210 BUT they may not know what
it is (I called several stores and they were clueless.  I called Napier back
and they suggested to have the store call them directly because they CAN
ordered it!)
It runs about $35-$50 a gal.

Any ICI Paint store
Any Sherwin Williams paint store
SV35PMA can be ordered direct from Napier or from Aircraftspruce.com

Contact info for Napier
E-mail: cservice@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Phone: 1-604-526-0802
Phone (Toll free in North America): 1-800-663-9274
Fax: 1-604-526-7772
Fax: (Toll free in North America): 1-888-329-9274


Shirley Manning

*******************************************
> > ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 23:11:33 -0400
> From: John Sellers <sellersj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint? - progress report
>
> Gang,
>
> Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.  .......
> I will try to get some RemovAll stripper and see if that will do it.
..........

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 15:54:28 -0500
From: "candy" <cejones@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Furnace Fan Won't Shut Off

Hello All,

We purchased a 1974 Trade Wind last fall and have been gradually been
updating and reconditioning it.  I've just encountered a problem with the
furnace fan and would like to ask the List for any insights to a solution.
While parked and not hooked up to shore power, the furnace fan is coming on
and draining down the battery.  The thermostat is turned to its "OFF"
position; and thee manual gas valve to its "OFF" position (perpendicular to
the gas line,  The ambient air temperature inside the unit is quite warm as
it is summetrime.  Even though the thermostat is off , would it be sending a
message to the fan calling for it to run?  Is there some way I can disable
the furnace fan motor from coming on while the trailer is in storage?

Any help to understand this would be appreciated.

Dave Jones
1974 Trade Wind
WBCCI/VAC 13613
Iowa


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "VAL Digest" <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 12:00 AM
Subject: VAL Digest V1 #361


>
> VAL Digest          Sunday, September 5 2004          Volume 01 : Number
361
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> Topics in Today's Digest:
>
> [VAL] toddies
> [VAL] Hear we go again
> [VAL] NovaKool question (was 12v refridg)
> Re: [VAL] Hear we go again
> [VAL] Jack Story
> Re: [VAL] Jack Story
> Re: [VAL] Hear we go again
> [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint? - progress report
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 10:19:47 -0500
> From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] toddies
>
> Not being a proponent of ethanol enhanced beverages, I'm not missing
> toddies. I do recall that saki is often served warm or warmed. The last
warm
> (room temperature) saki I had would have melted ice in a flash the way it
> warmed on the way down...
>
> Gerald J.
>
> - -- 
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 13:55:03 EDT
> From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Hear we go again
>
> Setting here in northTampa watching what is taking on the east coast and
> wondering if we will dodge the bullet again.worried about the trees around
here
> that might deside my tradewind would be a good target. It is insured but
no
> amount of insurance could possably repay me for the blood sweat and
profanity I
> have put into it.
> Just wish us luck.
> Jim Smith
> 1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
> 1992 Dodge Cummins Diesel
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 11:08:28 -0700
> From: <trailergirl@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] NovaKool question (was 12v refridg)
>
> Just a note for those of you wanting to keep the original refrigerator
> "look".
> NovaKool http://www.novakool.com also sells just the compressor and
cooling
> plates.
> The compressor can be, I believe, up to 12' ft. or so from the cooling
> plates.
> With these you could make just about any insulated space a refrigerator.
> With some retrofitting you could conceivably fit the cooling plates into
> your
> existing original refrig and turn it into a 12volt compressor driven,
solar
> friendly refrig.
> This information was provided to me by our local NovaKool dealer in Long
> Beach, CA.
> If you look on the NovaKool website you can find information about it.
>
> Sue Murphy
> Iowa Boys
> North Hollywood, CA
>
> >Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 15:59:56 -0700
> >From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> >Subject: Re: [VAL] NovaCool question (was 12v refridg)
> >
> >Hi David:
>  >    Well with the insulation in, the noise is hardly noticable. And
> >yes, the freezer is small for sure. A couple of trays of ice is about
> >it and for a Scotch Rocks person, that's the critical part! So far, I
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 14:12:27 -0400
> From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Hear we go again
>
> Jim,
>
> I hope you and your family come through okay which it looks like you will
as
> I watch the weather channel from NC.  You will have lots and lots of rain
it
> appears, but the winds will subside a bit as the storm moves westerly over
> land.  They are saying that the greatest threat is the amount of rain,
they
> are calling for as much as 20 inches in places and have opened up canals
to
> let it back out.
>
> Stay safe, and keep reporting to us.
>
> Tom
>
> - ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 1:55 PM
> Subject: [VAL] Hear we go again
>
>
> > Setting here in northTampa watching what is taking on the east coast and
> > wondering if we will dodge the bullet again.worried about the trees
around
> > here
> > that might deside my tradewind would be a good target. It is insured but
> > no
> > amount of insurance could possably repay me for the blood sweat and
> > profanity I
> > have put into it.
> > Just wish us luck.
> > Jim Smith
> > 1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
> > 1992 Dodge Cummins Diesel
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 16:43:20 -0700
> From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAL] Jack Story
>
> Howdy folks:
>
> I finally installed my electric jack yesterday.  As is usually the case,
it
> didn't go exactly as I planned.
>
> I knew that I had to buy a jack with maximum 2" diameter shaft or it would
> require grinding out the mounting holes on the trailer tongue.  I didn't
> expect to encounter this:
>
> Apparently, the original manual jack, although it too was 2" had little or
> no paint on it when it was installed.  There are two holes in the web of
the
> A-frame, the top one being slightly bigger than the bottom one (although I
> can't imagine why).  The new jack has a beautiful thick coat of black
enamel
> on it.  It wouldn't fit through the bottom hole.  Was close, but no go.
Not
> only that, it appeared that the factory installed the safety chain (s) by
> wrapping it around the original jack post from the back, and welding 3 of
> the links to the underside of the web adjacent to the hole that was too
> small.  Now this SHOULD have been a really small job:  3 bolts and tap
into
> the wire at the breakaway switch (yeah, I changed my mind).
>
> So it was either remove the paint from the jack or make the hole (and
> adjacent chain links) a silly-millimeter bigger.  I chose the latter.  I
ran
> my rechargeable Dremel tool til it ran out of juice.  I had my generator
in
> the back of the truck and the CASE for the 120V Dremel, but no tool.  Game
> over.
>
> The next day I went back and took my freshly recharged Dremel and went to
> it.  This time I had the other Dremel with me and I was ready for as long
as
> it took to grind out that bugger.  But before the first Dremel pooped out
I
> managed to get the hole widened out enough for the jack to drop in.  But
not
> without having to twist it a little.  I can't wait to try to get it out
> someday.  Oh well...it's never easy.  Works great.  Wiring it up was a
snap.
>
> One other thing: I made a nifty cover out of a leftover hunk of Sunbrella
> Silver.  Pulls over the jack head and has a nylon strap and buckle to
secure
> it around the jack shaft.  Looks really nice I think.  Would be delighted
to
> send anyone a picture that wants to see what it looks like offline.
>
> Later,
>
> GQ '67 Safari
> 4082 in CA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 17:01:18 -0700
> From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Jack Story
>
> Hey Gary,
>
> Sounds like you got through it just fine.  I'd like to see your 'jack
cozy'.
> Sunbrella was a good choice, too...it will let the thing breathe, rather
than
> trap moisture like plastic or vinyl would.
>
> My address is mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net.  That, and a few other pictures of your
rig
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Mark in Modesto
> 1962 'gilded' Tradewind
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 19:02:20 -0600
> From: Royce <rkkessler@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Hear we go again
>
> On Saturday 04 September 2004 11:55 am, JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> > Setting here in northTampa watching what is taking on the east coast and
> > wondering if we will dodge the bullet again.worried about the trees
around
> > here that might deside my tradewind would be a good target. It is
insured
> > but no amount of insurance could possably repay me for the blood sweat
and
> > profanity I have put into it.
> > Just wish us luck.
> > Jim Smith
> Jim,
>
> We will pray for you and hope you come through safe and sound.
>
> Atb,
> Royce
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 23:11:33 -0400
> From: John Sellers <sellersj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint? - progress report
>
> Gang,
>
> Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.  Unfortunately, right now we are
> going through a spell of phone line problems so my internet access is
> very chancy.
>
> I will try to get some RemovAll stripper and see if that will do it.  I
> haven't found a source yet on account of my internet connection not
> being good enough for web browsing--I'm doing good to send and receive
> email. I will also try Jasco paint stripper and Klean Strip Aircraft
> Stripper if I can find them--so far I have seen Jasco tile adhesive
> stripper in the stores, but not paint stripper.
>
> I also tried 3M Safe Stripper--a non-methyl-chloride formula--but it
> didn't work well enough to repeat.  After a 3 hour soak the paint was
> soft enough to scour off with steel wool, but not as soft as after 30
> minutes with one of the methylene chloride strippers. (3M recommends
> their own paint remover pad made of coarse Scotchbrite coated with some
> kind of abrasive, but I shudder to think the scratches it would put in
> the aluminum.)
>
> In the mean time, I had planned to get the trailer done during
> September, and I'm going to get as far as I can.  After trying four
> different brands of stripper with roughly equivalent results I decided
> that the only sure course of action was to fall back on Grim
> Determination, which, experience has shown, succeeds when all else
> fails.
>
> I have evolved a fairly effective technique with methylene chloride
> paint stripper (Bix, Martin Senour 6802, Parks Pro-Strip, etc.) and
> steel wool.
>
> I am keenly aware of the objection to steel wool that it can leave
> particles of steel wool in the finish which will eventually rust.  But
> ya gotta realize that I'm between a rock and a hard place here--steel
> wool is the only thing I have found that will cut the paint.  (And
> Nuvite F7 will polish out the scratches from the fine (000) steel wool
> I'm using.)  I'm hoping that using the steel wool wet with paint
> stripper and lacquer thinner, and washing off the debris, will get rid
> of most of the steel wool particles.  Also that compounding with Nuvite
> F7 will polish out any microscopic fragments embedded in the aluminum.
> Only time will tell.
>
> What I do is cover about a 4 or 5 square foot area with stripper and let
> it soak for a half an hour or so.  (This seems to be about
> optimum--longer soaking and multiple applications of stripper haven't
> seemed to make much difference.)
>
> Then I have at it with steel wool dampened with lacquer thinner.  The
> lacquer thinner seems to help.  I use the term "dampened" advisedly.
> Too much lacquer thinner seems to act as a lubricant and makes a lot of
> fumes. Just a little is the ticket.
>
> I started out with a circular scrubbing motion but quickly learned that
> up-and-down and side-to-side work better.  Two factors are the direction
> of the brush strokes (the paint was brushed on) and the direction of the
> mill finish of the aluminum.  (The aluminum seems to have a little bit
> of a "grain" to it, horizontal on most panels but vertical on the door.)
> The keys to effectiveness are lots of pressure on the steel wool, and
> frequent turning and shredding the steel wool pad to continually expose
> fresh fibers.
>
> Every square foot or so I stop and wipe off the accumulated sculch with
> a paper towel dampened (same caution as above) with lacquer thinner.
>
> After getting down the learning curve a bit I have found that I can
> strip about 5 square feet in an hour.
>
> Like Uwe said (aside from Oy Vey!, with which I wholeheartedly concur!),
> it's a good thing we have a small trailer.  I roughly calculated the
> surface area to be about 330 square feet.  At 5 square feet per hour it
> will take 66 hours of stripping.
>
> A lot of work, but possible with Grim Determination.  So far we have
> stripped about 60 square feet. I won't get the trailer polished in
> September, but if I hit it a good lick every day that weather permits I
> will have it stripped, and maybe one pass over the whole trailer with F7
> to make it look "sorta" polished.  Heck, we have already had
> passers-by comment on how nice the *stripped* panels looked!
>
> Crazy?  Of course.  You don't have to be crazy to own a vintage
> Airstream, but it helps.  I still remember a comment by a non-vintage
> WBCCI member at last year's Region 7 rally in Bemidji.  I remarked that
> we were probably crazy to take Little Bubble on the road with none of
> the plumbing working.  She smiled and said, "Not crazy--just a Vintage
> Airstreamer."
>
> Quite so.
>
> Best,
> John & Barb Sellers
> WBCCI/VAC #1587
> 1960 Pacer (currently with two-tone finish)
> Dayton, Ohio
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of VAL Digest V1 #361
> *************************
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 15:20:21 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Furnace Fan Won't Shut Off

Dave,

There is a temp switch on the burner chamber of the furnace that 
monitors burner temp. It overrides the thermostat and assures the burner 
chamber is adequately cooled down before shutting the fan off. While it 
is unusual it is not uncommon for ambient air temperature to close the 
switch and allow the fan to run. Not unlike the electric cooling fans 
used on some cars.
What is more likely is that the switch has either been replaced with the 
wrong part or changed value.
If you have any service related data with you coach you can find the 
location and the correct part for that switch. If not someone on the 
list can.

Charlie

candy wrote:

>Hello All,
>
>We purchased a 1974 Trade Wind last fall and have been gradually been
>updating and reconditioning it.  I've just encountered a problem with the
>furnace fan and would like to ask the List for any insights to a solution.
>While parked and not hooked up to shore power, the furnace fan is coming on
>and draining down the battery.  The thermostat is turned to its "OFF"
>position; and thee manual gas valve to its "OFF" position (perpendicular to
>the gas line,  The ambient air temperature inside the unit is quite warm as
>it is summetrime.  Even though the thermostat is off , would it be sending a
>message to the fan calling for it to run?  Is there some way I can disable
>the furnace fan motor from coming on while the trailer is in storage?
>
>Any help to understand this would be appreciated.
>
>Dave Jones
>1974 Trade Wind
>WBCCI/VAC 13613
>Iowa
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "VAL Digest" <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>To: <valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 12:00 AM
>Subject: VAL Digest V1 #361
>
>
>  
>
>>VAL Digest          Sunday, September 5 2004          Volume 01 : Number
>>    
>>
>361
>  
>
>>
>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>
>>Topics in Today's Digest:
>>
>>[VAL] toddies
>>[VAL] Hear we go again
>>[VAL] NovaKool question (was 12v refridg)
>>Re: [VAL] Hear we go again
>>[VAL] Jack Story
>>Re: [VAL] Jack Story
>>Re: [VAL] Hear we go again
>>[VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint? - progress report
>>
>>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 10:19:47 -0500
>>From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>Subject: [VAL] toddies
>>
>>Not being a proponent of ethanol enhanced beverages, I'm not missing
>>toddies. I do recall that saki is often served warm or warmed. The last
>>    
>>
>warm
>  
>
>>(room temperature) saki I had would have melted ice in a flash the way it
>>warmed on the way down...
>>
>>Gerald J.
>>
>>- -- 
>>Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
>>Reproduction by permission only.
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 13:55:03 EDT
>>From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>>Subject: [VAL] Hear we go again
>>
>>Setting here in northTampa watching what is taking on the east coast and
>>wondering if we will dodge the bullet again.worried about the trees around
>>    
>>
>here
>  
>
>>that might deside my tradewind would be a good target. It is insured but
>>    
>>
>no
>  
>
>>amount of insurance could possably repay me for the blood sweat and
>>    
>>
>profanity I
>  
>
>>have put into it.
>>Just wish us luck.
>>Jim Smith
>>1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
>>1992 Dodge Cummins Diesel
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 11:08:28 -0700
>>From: <trailergirl@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>Subject: [VAL] NovaKool question (was 12v refridg)
>>
>>Just a note for those of you wanting to keep the original refrigerator
>>"look".
>>NovaKool http://www.novakool.com also sells just the compressor and
>>    
>>
>cooling
>  
>
>>plates.
>>The compressor can be, I believe, up to 12' ft. or so from the cooling
>>plates.
>>With these you could make just about any insulated space a refrigerator.
>>With some retrofitting you could conceivably fit the cooling plates into
>>your
>>existing original refrig and turn it into a 12volt compressor driven,
>>    
>>
>solar
>  
>
>>friendly refrig.
>>This information was provided to me by our local NovaKool dealer in Long
>>Beach, CA.
>>If you look on the NovaKool website you can find information about it.
>>
>>Sue Murphy
>>Iowa Boys
>>North Hollywood, CA
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 15:59:56 -0700
>>>From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
>>>Subject: Re: [VAL] NovaCool question (was 12v refridg)
>>>
>>>Hi David:
>>>      
>>>
>> >    Well with the insulation in, the noise is hardly noticable. And
>>    
>>
>>>yes, the freezer is small for sure. A couple of trays of ice is about
>>>it and for a Scotch Rocks person, that's the critical part! So far, I
>>>      
>>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 14:12:27 -0400
>>From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
>>Subject: Re: [VAL] Hear we go again
>>
>>Jim,
>>
>>I hope you and your family come through okay which it looks like you will
>>    
>>
>as
>  
>
>>I watch the weather channel from NC.  You will have lots and lots of rain
>>    
>>
>it
>  
>
>>appears, but the winds will subside a bit as the storm moves westerly over
>>land.  They are saying that the greatest threat is the amount of rain,
>>    
>>
>they
>  
>
>>are calling for as much as 20 inches in places and have opened up canals
>>    
>>
>to
>  
>
>>let it back out.
>>
>>Stay safe, and keep reporting to us.
>>
>>Tom
>>
>>- ----- Original Message ----- 
>>From: <JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 1:55 PM
>>Subject: [VAL] Hear we go again
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Setting here in northTampa watching what is taking on the east coast and
>>>wondering if we will dodge the bullet again.worried about the trees
>>>      
>>>
>around
>  
>
>>>here
>>>that might deside my tradewind would be a good target. It is insured but
>>>no
>>>amount of insurance could possably repay me for the blood sweat and
>>>profanity I
>>>have put into it.
>>>Just wish us luck.
>>>Jim Smith
>>>1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
>>>1992 Dodge Cummins Diesel
>>>
>>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>>
>>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>>      
>>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 16:43:20 -0700
>>From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>>Subject: [VAL] Jack Story
>>
>>Howdy folks:
>>
>>I finally installed my electric jack yesterday.  As is usually the case,
>>    
>>
>it
>  
>
>>didn't go exactly as I planned.
>>
>>I knew that I had to buy a jack with maximum 2" diameter shaft or it would
>>require grinding out the mounting holes on the trailer tongue.  I didn't
>>expect to encounter this:
>>
>>Apparently, the original manual jack, although it too was 2" had little or
>>no paint on it when it was installed.  There are two holes in the web of
>>    
>>
>the
>  
>
>>A-frame, the top one being slightly bigger than the bottom one (although I
>>can't imagine why).  The new jack has a beautiful thick coat of black
>>    
>>
>enamel
>  
>
>>on it.  It wouldn't fit through the bottom hole.  Was close, but no go.
>>    
>>
>Not
>  
>
>>only that, it appeared that the factory installed the safety chain (s) by
>>wrapping it around the original jack post from the back, and welding 3 of
>>the links to the underside of the web adjacent to the hole that was too
>>small.  Now this SHOULD have been a really small job:  3 bolts and tap
>>    
>>
>into
>  
>
>>the wire at the breakaway switch (yeah, I changed my mind).
>>
>>So it was either remove the paint from the jack or make the hole (and
>>adjacent chain links) a silly-millimeter bigger.  I chose the latter.  I
>>    
>>
>ran
>  
>
>>my rechargeable Dremel tool til it ran out of juice.  I had my generator
>>    
>>
>in
>  
>
>>the back of the truck and the CASE for the 120V Dremel, but no tool.  Game
>>over.
>>
>>The next day I went back and took my freshly recharged Dremel and went to
>>it.  This time I had the other Dremel with me and I was ready for as long
>>    
>>
>as
>  
>
>>it took to grind out that bugger.  But before the first Dremel pooped out
>>    
>>
>I
>  
>
>>managed to get the hole widened out enough for the jack to drop in.  But
>>    
>>
>not
>  
>
>>without having to twist it a little.  I can't wait to try to get it out
>>someday.  Oh well...it's never easy.  Works great.  Wiring it up was a
>>    
>>
>snap.
>  
>
>>One other thing: I made a nifty cover out of a leftover hunk of Sunbrella
>>Silver.  Pulls over the jack head and has a nylon strap and buckle to
>>    
>>
>secure
>  
>
>>it around the jack shaft.  Looks really nice I think.  Would be delighted
>>    
>>
>to
>  
>
>>send anyone a picture that wants to see what it looks like offline.
>>
>>Later,
>>
>>GQ '67 Safari
>>4082 in CA
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 17:01:18 -0700
>>From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>>Subject: Re: [VAL] Jack Story
>>
>>Hey Gary,
>>
>>Sounds like you got through it just fine.  I'd like to see your 'jack
>>    
>>
>cozy'.
>  
>
>>Sunbrella was a good choice, too...it will let the thing breathe, rather
>>    
>>
>than
>  
>
>>trap moisture like plastic or vinyl would.
>>
>>My address is mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net.  That, and a few other pictures of your
>>    
>>
>rig
>  
>
>>would be appreciated.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Mark in Modesto
>>1962 'gilded' Tradewind
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 19:02:20 -0600
>>From: Royce <rkkessler@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>>Subject: Re: [VAL] Hear we go again
>>
>>On Saturday 04 September 2004 11:55 am, JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>>    
>>
>>>Setting here in northTampa watching what is taking on the east coast and
>>>wondering if we will dodge the bullet again.worried about the trees
>>>      
>>>
>around
>  
>
>>>here that might deside my tradewind would be a good target. It is
>>>      
>>>
>insured
>  
>
>>>but no amount of insurance could possably repay me for the blood sweat
>>>      
>>>
>and
>  
>
>>>profanity I have put into it.
>>>Just wish us luck.
>>>Jim Smith
>>>      
>>>
>>Jim,
>>
>>We will pray for you and hope you come through safe and sound.
>>
>>Atb,
>>Royce
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 23:11:33 -0400
>>From: John Sellers <sellersj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>Subject: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint? - progress report
>>
>>Gang,
>>
>>Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.  Unfortunately, right now we are
>>going through a spell of phone line problems so my internet access is
>>very chancy.
>>
>>I will try to get some RemovAll stripper and see if that will do it.  I
>>haven't found a source yet on account of my internet connection not
>>being good enough for web browsing--I'm doing good to send and receive
>>email. I will also try Jasco paint stripper and Klean Strip Aircraft
>>Stripper if I can find them--so far I have seen Jasco tile adhesive
>>stripper in the stores, but not paint stripper.
>>
>>I also tried 3M Safe Stripper--a non-methyl-chloride formula--but it
>>didn't work well enough to repeat.  After a 3 hour soak the paint was
>>soft enough to scour off with steel wool, but not as soft as after 30
>>minutes with one of the methylene chloride strippers. (3M recommends
>>their own paint remover pad made of coarse Scotchbrite coated with some
>>kind of abrasive, but I shudder to think the scratches it would put in
>>the aluminum.)
>>
>>In the mean time, I had planned to get the trailer done during
>>September, and I'm going to get as far as I can.  After trying four
>>different brands of stripper with roughly equivalent results I decided
>>that the only sure course of action was to fall back on Grim
>>Determination, which, experience has shown, succeeds when all else
>>fails.
>>
>>I have evolved a fairly effective technique with methylene chloride
>>paint stripper (Bix, Martin Senour 6802, Parks Pro-Strip, etc.) and
>>steel wool.
>>
>>I am keenly aware of the objection to steel wool that it can leave
>>particles of steel wool in the finish which will eventually rust.  But
>>ya gotta realize that I'm between a rock and a hard place here--steel
>>wool is the only thing I have found that will cut the paint.  (And
>>Nuvite F7 will polish out the scratches from the fine (000) steel wool
>>I'm using.)  I'm hoping that using the steel wool wet with paint
>>stripper and lacquer thinner, and washing off the debris, will get rid
>>of most of the steel wool particles.  Also that compounding with Nuvite
>>F7 will polish out any microscopic fragments embedded in the aluminum.
>>Only time will tell.
>>
>>What I do is cover about a 4 or 5 square foot area with stripper and let
>>it soak for a half an hour or so.  (This seems to be about
>>optimum--longer soaking and multiple applications of stripper haven't
>>seemed to make much difference.)
>>
>>Then I have at it with steel wool dampened with lacquer thinner.  The
>>lacquer thinner seems to help.  I use the term "dampened" advisedly.
>>Too much lacquer thinner seems to act as a lubricant and makes a lot of
>>fumes. Just a little is the ticket.
>>
>>I started out with a circular scrubbing motion but quickly learned that
>>up-and-down and side-to-side work better.  Two factors are the direction
>>of the brush strokes (the paint was brushed on) and the direction of the
>>mill finish of the aluminum.  (The aluminum seems to have a little bit
>>of a "grain" to it, horizontal on most panels but vertical on the door.)
>>The keys to effectiveness are lots of pressure on the steel wool, and
>>frequent turning and shredding the steel wool pad to continually expose
>>fresh fibers.
>>
>>Every square foot or so I stop and wipe off the accumulated sculch with
>>a paper towel dampened (same caution as above) with lacquer thinner.
>>
>>After getting down the learning curve a bit I have found that I can
>>strip about 5 square feet in an hour.
>>
>>Like Uwe said (aside from Oy Vey!, with which I wholeheartedly concur!),
>>it's a good thing we have a small trailer.  I roughly calculated the
>>surface area to be about 330 square feet.  At 5 square feet per hour it
>>will take 66 hours of stripping.
>>
>>A lot of work, but possible with Grim Determination.  So far we have
>>stripped about 60 square feet. I won't get the trailer polished in
>>September, but if I hit it a good lick every day that weather permits I
>>will have it stripped, and maybe one pass over the whole trailer with F7
>>to make it look "sorta" polished.  Heck, we have already had
>>passers-by comment on how nice the *stripped* panels looked!
>>
>>Crazy?  Of course.  You don't have to be crazy to own a vintage
>>Airstream, but it helps.  I still remember a comment by a non-vintage
>>WBCCI member at last year's Region 7 rally in Bemidji.  I remarked that
>>we were probably crazy to take Little Bubble on the road with none of
>>the plumbing working.  She smiled and said, "Not crazy--just a Vintage
>>Airstreamer."
>>
>>Quite so.
>>
>>Best,
>>John & Barb Sellers
>>WBCCI/VAC #1587
>>1960 Pacer (currently with two-tone finish)
>>Dayton, Ohio
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>End of VAL Digest V1 #361
>>*************************
>>
>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
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>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
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>>    
>>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 14:59:29 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Jack Story

> Hi Gary:
>   I'd like to see your jack cover picture please. I put an electric jack
> on my Bubble and have been extremely pleased with it but a cover is a
> really good idea.
> Jo Ann

Hi Jo Ann:

There you go.  I made it inside out by stapling a pretty good fit and then
getting my wife (Mrs GQ) to use her sewing machine along the staples.  The
nylon strap is sewed on with a rectangle of stitches about 3 or 4 inches on
the back that allows the "bunching up" of the material toward the front and
the buckle at the side in order to kinda follow the configuration of the
jack head.  The cover itself is a simple bag that is a close fit over the
head.  The material is Sunbrella Silver which I used to rebuild the small
window awnings over some of the windows.  Pretty much matches the aluminum.

Later,

GQ

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jackcover01.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jackcover02.JPG]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 15:10:06 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Jack Story

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Jack Story

Oops.  Meant to send the reply to this directly to Jo Ann.  Sorry group.

GQ

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 17:17:56 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Furnace Fan Won't Shut Off

Generally the furnace fan is run by a thermostat on the heat exchanger in 
the furnace, independent of the wall thermostat. Some are labeled "fan 
limit" control. Some fan limit switches are adjustable to run the fan 
continuously at even a low temperature (like 60 degrees F). It is possibly 
that the one in your trade wind has been set way down or is faulty. It 
would be practical to add a switch to the 12 volt circuit supplying the 
furnace if you can't get to the fan limit control.

The fan control on a home wall thermostat is a separate circuit from the 
heat thermostat. That's not a part of the '74 Tradewind.

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #362
*************************


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