The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #360
VAL Digest Saturday, September 4 2004 Volume 01 : Number 360
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint?
Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
Re: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint?
Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
RE: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint?
RE: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
[VAL] Re: Batteriy capacity and refrigerators.
RE: [VAL] NovaCool question (was 12v refridg)
Re: [VAL] Re: Batteriy capacity and refrigerators.
RE: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
Re: [VAL] NovaCool question (was 12v refridg)
Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
RE: [VAL] Re: Batteriy capacity and refrigerators.
[VAL] Cargo Shifting: Curtain track
[VAL] new pics
Re: [VAL] new pics
[VAL] Bob's restoration...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 23:24:15 -0600
From: rob <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint?
We used Aircraft Remover by Klean Strip, although we were only removing
standard clear coat.
John Sellers wrote:
>Or any other ideas to get this aluminum paint off?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 22:28:12 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
Joel and others,
For what it's worth, we have refrigeration on our sailboat and typically
get about five days use from two group 27's dedicated to the compressor
(Adler Barbour brand without keel cooler) by using a trick Marilyn came up
with. We simply turn the unit off at night and back on again in the
morning. This I might add during the summer here in SoCal.
This is just food for thought (or is that food for thaw? sorry) and I'm
not suggesting the same for Airstream owners but maybe some variation of our
trick might be useful some time.
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
> From: Joel Raymond <pi2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 20:51:48 -0700
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
>
> I have just finished phase one of my 65 caravel restoration. Phase one
> is: cleanup, repair, repaint, what I have. The original refrigerator
> was replaced with an ice box by the previous owner and it was in sad
> shape. I had to replace the water pump so I added two large deep marine
> batteries and an intelligent charger. I decided to go for a 110 VAC
> Magic Chef. It cost $135 at Home Depot. The power consumption is a
> little over 1 Amp @ 110V, or roughly 10A @ 12V. The duty rate is 50%(
> runs 1/2 of the time), so in 24 Hrs 60AHrs. The batteries are 120AHr
> each, therefore four days before a totally dead battery. I have a very
> small inverter dedicated to the refrigerator, $15. When traveling, the
> car recharges the batteries and at night I use a Honda EU2000 for a few
> hours to put new life into the batteries. The refrigerator is cheaper,
> the case is not very robust and the mounting required drilling holes
> into the outer shell otherwise it vibrates out of position when
> rolling. The other AC device I installed was a small microwave because
> the stove really needs an overhaul. The microwave requires the EU2000.
>
> Phase two will replace the stock built-in cabinets, add a dinette in
> place of the front gaucho, and buff the outside.
>
> Joel
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 23:16:13 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint?
John Sellers wrote:
>Or any other ideas to get this aluminum paint off?
Though I haven't tried it on my Airstream, I've had great luck with a stripper
I buy from a local piano restoring outfit. There's no brand name, and I have
to buy it in gray five gallon containers with black stenciled
lettering...pretty official stuff. It runs about $60 and comes in varieties:
thin or thick. I use the thin for my projects, but I think I'd want the gel
for the trailer and vertical surfaces.
An aircraft stripper might be the best suggestion, though. It's designed to
be used on stuff that sticks to aluminum. I'll look forward to learning what
you finally find which works best.
Good luck,
Mark in Modesto
'62 'gilded' Tradewind or is it Trade Wind?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 00:32:06 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
Dan, there are two different kind of 12-volt fridges. One is the usual
Dometic type, that runs on gas, 110-volts, or 12 volts. It uses heat,
either from propane or from an electric heating element. This kind
really sucks up the juice. The other type uses a high-efficiency
compressor -- the one Joann installed is a good example. Sun Frost is
another. I had a little LeSharo that had one. It requires air
circulation, but not the roof vent like a propane fridge does. And it is
MUCH more efficient than the other type. Also, it gets cold really quick
- -- from warm to ice in the ice trays in 90 minutes. These guys are great
for folks who have an older trailer and want to replace the 110-volt
fridge without the necessity to make a big vent hold in the roof. And I
second what Joann said about Backwoods Solar in Idaho -- they're nice
folks, helpful, with fair prices.
Best regards,
Rik
Dan Childress wrote:
>I am seeking information of the replacement of my fridge in my 69 caravel.
>I will not be using a gas unit do to allergic reactions to the product. My
>question is are there any drawbacks to using a 12 volt unit? Do they make a
>12 volt/ 110 volt combination? I have heard that the 12 volt is hard on the
>tow vehicle's charging system. Any help will be appreciated.
>
>Dan
>14148
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 08:50:58 -0400
From: "Robert Cornute" <ccornut1@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint?
Hi; Try P&S Trailer just south west of Cleveland See what they
recommend, they have the greatest amount of experience on the east coast
in stripping and polishing A/S Trailers(Helena, Ohio 419-638-6261) I
had mine done there last year. Bob Cornute WBCCI 4953 & VAC '77 31'
International
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of John Sellers
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 11:48 PM
To: VA List
Subject: [VAL] Stripper for aluminum paint?
Gang,
"Today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday. . .
. . . now you know why."
Anonymous
I started polishing--or rather, attempting to polish--our 1960 Pacer
this week and the job has already expanded beyond what I expected.
Those of you who have seen our trailer know that the previous owner
apparently painted over the aluminum with some kind of aluminum paint.
This paint is proving almost impossible to remove. The paint film is
quite thin, no more than a wash in places, but hard and adherent. I
have tried three different kinds of stripper, Bix, Martin-Senour
automotive paint stripper from NAPA, and Parks Pro-Strip, with similar
results. Even after an hour of soaking the aluminum paint doesn't come
loose. The paint film is softened enough that it can be removed with
_hard_ scrubbing with fine steel wool, but that's it. (I tried a
plastic scraper, soft plastic scrubbing pads, and fine Scotchbrite, and
none of them would touch it. Only steel wool worked, and that with
considerable effort.)
I have found that 000 steel wool doesn't scratch the aluminum too badly;
my test patches polish out OK with Nuvite F7 and the compounding
polisher. But it's going to be awfully tedious stripping the whole
trailer with steel wool! (Underneath the paint, the aluminum is about
what you expect on an old Airstream; pitted and scratched in some
places, and in other places practically like new.)
I tried just grinding the paint off with the compounding polisher, but
F7 Nuvite won't cut it.
In desperation I ordered some F9 Nuvite from Perfect Polish to see if
that is capable of removing the paint. Tom at Perfect Polish suggested
trying RemovAll paint stripper. No promises, but he says he's seen it
take off paint that nothing else would touch. All the strippers I have
tried have been basically methylene chloride, methanol, a few other
organic compounds thrown in for good measure, and thickeners. RemovAll
works on an entirely different chemical principle, so I can hope that it
will work where others have failed.
Has anybody used RemovAll, and can you recommend a place to get it? Or
any other ideas to get this aluminum paint off?
(Plan Z is to paint the trailer white and rename it the White
Elephant. . . )
Best,
John Sellers
WBCCI/VAC #1587
1960 Pacer
Dayton, Ohio
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 08:49:30 -0500
From: "dtidmore" <dtidmore@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
Dan,
3 pair of Rolls golf cart batteries should give you about 1000amphours total
actual capacity (figure on 500amp hours so as to avoid draining the
batteries below 50%). I assume you are putting those somewhere ELSE than in
the trailer as you are talking some very SERIOUS weight. Even with a huge
battery bank, you still have the issue that assuming you have room on your
roof for 2, 75w panels, they will be able to replace, at most, about 9 amps
/ hour of excellent sunlight. As the Dometic 12v fridge pulls 15 amps /
hour when the heating coil is on, the only way out of the hole is hoping
that the fridge will cycle at least 50% of the time and in hot weather that
is iffy. With a huge battery capacity as you are contemplating, you will
have 2-3 days of use even if the fridge ran 100% of the time, but the solar
panels will only be replacing a portion of the power being pulled by the 12v
fridge. If longer term boondocking factors in, then honestly the best way
is to have a small genset, (again you need at least the Honda eu2000), to
run the fridge and charge the batteries during the day. This would also
allow you to reduce the size of your battery bank to more like a single pair
of the Rolls 6V golf cart batteries (ie about 350 amphour capacity)
Someone else mentioned using a 12v compressor-type fridge and that is an
option, and they use less power, but they have some associated noise just as
your fridge at home.
david
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Dan Childress
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 4:24 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
Jo Ann, David
I am planning on having three pair of golf cart batteries with solar on
the roof. Knowing that a 110 refridg is cheaper to purchase, and that
there should be enough storage for 2-4 days, it might be better to just go
with 110 with an inverter. What do you think?
Jo Ann,
What size did you purchase? Cost? Web site?
Thanks
Need to keep cool
Dan
14148
> >
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 09:48:35 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Batteriy capacity and refrigerators.
There is some confusion posted by David.
When using 160 ampere hour 6 volt batteries in series to make 12 volts, each
pair is still only 160 ampere hours. Twice the watt hours, but the same ampere
hours. So half a dozen batteries in three strings makes 480 ampere hours.
The unit "amperes / hour" is a nonsense unit. It doesn't exist. A device uses
amperes of current (and an ampere is defined as one coulomb (charge) per
second.) Saying "amperes / hour" is saying "coulombs / second / hour" Not a
real unit of electricity.
A pair of 75 watt solar panels might produce 12 amperes at peak sun under
the most perfect of conditions. Over a sunny day the total power might be
as high as 100 ampere hours, but that's way optimistic, more likely 50 ampere
hours is realistic without perfect weather and tracking the sun.
The 12 volt adsorption refrigerator is a power hog.
The 12 volt compressor refrigerator like the Sun Frost is economical, though it
depends on lots of insulation of few door openings. A few years ago,
Consumer's Reports wasn't impressed by its efficiency, because their test
included lots of door openings which made it work as hard as a more
conventional refrigerator design and use as much energy. Most other
refrigerators are deficient in insulation and so can use excess energy.
Automatic defrost adds a great deal of energy consumption but RV
refrigerators don't often have that.
The Sun Frost refrigeration system can be bought (at least it used to) as the
mechanics for fitting into your own box. That might be a way to repair a
broken dometic without changing its appearance. The 12 volt compressor
used to be listed in W. W. Grainger's catalog but assembling a refrigerator
that way takes a lot of work.
The thickness of the insulation is always a compromise between efficiency
and storage capacity. In our trailers the space is limited and a refrigerator
with 4" of foam (like the Sun Frost domestic model) would be cramped for
interior space.
It is possible to boondock without refrigeration, just means a lack of cold
foods, and depending on canned and dehydrated foods.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 12:51:17 -0500
From: "dtidmore" <dtidmore@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] NovaCool question (was 12v refridg)
Jo Ann,
Since you own a NovaCool, can you give us an idea of the compressor and
condenser fan noise levels inside the trailer? NovaCool offers some nice
packaging options as well as low current 12V, and optional 120V operation.
Looks like from their web site that virtually all the units draw about the
same power. Even if the unit ran 24hours a day, at 3amps, any reasonably
sized solar array could keep up & charge the batteries to boot. The only
downside I see is on the smaller units, the freezer compartment is about 1/2
the size of the comparable freezer in a Dometic.
david
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Joann Wheatley
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 9:16 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
Dan:
The DC only frig is a Novakool R4500; 4.3 Cu ft with freezer box.
Has a one yr warranty, two yrs on parts. Cost me $690 + shipping from
Canada (manf there). Consumes 35 watts when compressor runs; under 3
amps 12 or 1.5 amps 24 volt. See :
www.backwoodssolar.com
They were very helpful to me. The key is insulation and ventilation. It
doesn't come on a lot but that will vary with conditions and use. If
you have little kids that are in and out of it constantly, you'll
probably need to tow a utility trailer with banks of batteries! Good
luck.
Jo Ann
On 2, Sep 2004, at 2:23 PM, Dan Childress wrote:
> Jo Ann, David
>
> I am planning on having three pair of golf cart batteries with
> solar on
> the roof. Knowing that a 110 refridg is cheaper to purchase, and that
> there should be enough storage for 2-4 days, it might be better to
> just go
> with 110 with an inverter. What do you think?
>
> Jo Ann,
> What size did you purchase? Cost? Web site?
>
> Thanks
> Need to keep cool
> Dan
> 14148
>>>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 16:01:15 -0500
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Batteriy capacity and refrigerators.
Gerald...
I assume that means no ice for toddies etc... talk about roughing it!!
Jim
At 09:48 AM 9/3/2004, you wrote:
>It is possible to boondock without refrigeration, just means a lack of cold
>foods, and depending on canned and dehydrated foods.
>
>Gerald J.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 18:12:35 -0400
From: "Nick Sciurba" <nsciurba@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
First off, I'm a digester. TRIM YOUR POSTS, like I did.
A three way fridge, uses ammonia. The 12 VDC, 110 VAC, and propane are all
used as a heat source. It is very inefficient as an electrical fridge, but
it is tree way.
See: http://www.rvmobile.com/Welcome.htm
If you go with a 12 VDC only fridge, it becomes much more efficient. It
has 12 VDC motor running a compressor. If you plug into 110, your inverter
supplies the 12 VDC.
http://www.waeco.com/
Nick
>
> Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 11:53:38 -0500
> From: "dtidmore" <dtidmore@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
>
> Dan,
> First off, Dometic does make a 12/110/gas combo unit in a 3 or 4 cu ft
> models. The issue with 12V is that it will deplete a battery in fairly
> short order. When A/S actually offered the 12v option, they had it
running
> directly from the car electrical system and THEN ONLY when the engine was
> running.
>
> On the current Dometic units with 12v option the power drain is 15amps,
> which requires 10 gauge wiring if under 17ft from the battery or 8 gauge
> wire if under 27 ft from the battery. Dometic STILL shows connecting
> directly to the car electrical system with a relay that connects ONLY when
> the engine is running and it REQUIRES both dedicated positive and negative
> wires running directly back to the battery.
>
> If you choose to run on trailer batteries, understand that the 12v option
on
> the fridge can totally drain a typical deep cycle battery in about 8-10
> hours of operation. Now that assumes continuous operation and if the
fridge
> is cold and the weather is mild, it will cycle, extending the battery
life.
> Also, if you tow with a truck, you could make a battery bank of several
> batteries that road in the truckbed, charged by the truck charging system
> (but disconnected when the engine was off) and connect them to the trailer
> via an upsized charge line (ie it would put the extra batteries in
parallel
> with the trailer batteries which would give you a big jump in available
> battery life). Charging those batteries with the tow vehicle electrical
> system would work, but it will take several hours of charge time (even
> assuming high charging currents) to replace what the fridge required
during
> a typical 24 hour period. Using a genset such as the Honda EU2000 to
charge
> the batteries during the day would be a much better solution.
>
> As for being hard on the car's charging system, not anymore so than
running
> the car AC or any other higher amperage systems. If your alternator is
> undersized (ie not upgraded with a towing package), you might want to
> replace it with a 100 or 150 amp alternator, but that is not difficult.
>
> An alternative to going to a 12v fridge is to install a 300W dedicated 12v
> to 120v inverter so as to allow the fridge to run on 120V full time.
This
> does NOT change the drain on the batteries as the amperage involved will
> actually be slightly higher requiring the same gauge dedicated wiring to
the
> inverter as would a 12V fridge.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> david
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 15:59:56 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] NovaCool question (was 12v refridg)
Hi David:
Well with the insulation in, the noise is hardly noticable. And
yes, the freezer is small for sure. A couple of trays of ice is about
it and for a Scotch Rocks person, that's the critical part! So far, I
am pleased with the unit I got. Now to be honest, I haven't been on any
extended trips but that's cuz my whole rig is new.
Jo Ann
On 3, Sep 2004, at 10:51 AM, dtidmore wrote:
> Jo Ann,
> Since you own a NovaCool, can you give us an idea of the compressor and
> condenser fan noise levels inside the trailer? NovaCool offers some
> nice
> packaging options as well as low current 12V, and optional 120V
> operation.
> Looks like from their web site that virtually all the units draw about
> the
> same power. Even if the unit ran 24hours a day, at 3amps, any
> reasonably
> sized solar array could keep up & charge the batteries to boot. The
> only
> downside I see is on the smaller units, the freezer compartment is
> about 1/2
> the size of the comparable freezer in a Dometic.
>
> david
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> On Behalf Of Joann Wheatley
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 9:16 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
>
> Dan:
> The DC only frig is a Novakool R4500; 4.3 Cu ft with freezer box.
> Has a one yr warranty, two yrs on parts. Cost me $690 + shipping from
> Canada (manf there). Consumes 35 watts when compressor runs; under 3
> amps 12 or 1.5 amps 24 volt. See :
> www.backwoodssolar.com
> They were very helpful to me. The key is insulation and ventilation. It
> doesn't come on a lot but that will vary with conditions and use. If
> you have little kids that are in and out of it constantly, you'll
> probably need to tow a utility trailer with banks of batteries! Good
> luck.
> Jo Ann
> On 2, Sep 2004, at 2:23 PM, Dan Childress wrote:
>
>> Jo Ann, David
>>
>> I am planning on having three pair of golf cart batteries with
>> solar on
>> the roof. Knowing that a 110 refridg is cheaper to purchase, and
>> that
>> there should be enough storage for 2-4 days, it might be better to
>> just go
>> with 110 with an inverter. What do you think?
>>
>> Jo Ann,
>> What size did you purchase? Cost? Web site?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Need to keep cool
>> Dan
>> 14148
>>>>
>>>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
>>>> text
>>>>
>>>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>>
>>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
>>> text
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
>> text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 17:31:11 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 12 volt refridg
>TRIM YOUR POSTS, like I did.
Thanks Nick, but you didn't.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 19:38:33 -0500
From: "dtidmore" <dtidmore@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: Batteriy capacity and refrigerators.
Rolls sells offers several 6v units with capacities at or above 300+ amphour
each. When I made my statement about a 1000amphour battery bank, I was
assuming 3 pair of the 300+ amphour batteries. And yes I know that series
connection changes nothing as far as amphour capacity and that the watthour
doubled since the voltage doubled and amperage capability remained the same.
I was incorrect technically in using amp / hour notation. I was attempting
to convey that the 15amp load of the 12v Dometic fridge taken over a 1 hour
period is a 15amphour drain and a solar array with a 9amp output over a 1
hour period is a 9amphour capacity and that that a deficit existed that
meant the difference was coming from the batteries at a 6amphour rate (ie
eventual discharge regardless). Of course when the Dometic cycles off, the
entire solar output can be applied to the batteries, but in hot weather the
duty cycle is typically be considerably above 50% especially if the fridge
is being opened.
david
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Dr. Gerald Johnson
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2004 9:49 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Batteriy capacity and refrigerators.
There is some confusion posted by David.
When using 160 ampere hour 6 volt batteries in series to make 12 volts, each
pair is still only 160 ampere hours. Twice the watt hours, but the same
ampere
hours. So half a dozen batteries in three strings makes 480 ampere hours.
The unit "amperes / hour" is a nonsense unit. It doesn't exist. A device
uses
amperes of current (and an ampere is defined as one coulomb (charge) per
second.) Saying "amperes / hour" is saying "coulombs / second / hour" Not a
real unit of electricity.
A pair of 75 watt solar panels might produce 12 amperes at peak sun under
the most perfect of conditions. Over a sunny day the total power might be
as high as 100 ampere hours, but that's way optimistic, more likely 50
ampere
hours is realistic without perfect weather and tracking the sun.
The 12 volt adsorption refrigerator is a power hog.
The 12 volt compressor refrigerator like the Sun Frost is economical, though
it
depends on lots of insulation of few door openings. A few years ago,
Consumer's Reports wasn't impressed by its efficiency, because their test
included lots of door openings which made it work as hard as a more
conventional refrigerator design and use as much energy. Most other
refrigerators are deficient in insulation and so can use excess energy.
Automatic defrost adds a great deal of energy consumption but RV
refrigerators don't often have that.
The Sun Frost refrigeration system can be bought (at least it used to) as
the
mechanics for fitting into your own box. That might be a way to repair a
broken dometic without changing its appearance. The 12 volt compressor
used to be listed in W. W. Grainger's catalog but assembling a refrigerator
that way takes a lot of work.
The thickness of the insulation is always a compromise between efficiency
and storage capacity. In our trailers the space is limited and a
refrigerator
with 4" of foam (like the Sun Frost domestic model) would be cramped for
interior space.
It is possible to boondock without refrigeration, just means a lack of cold
foods, and depending on canned and dehydrated foods.
Gerald J.
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Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 17:53:14 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Cargo Shifting: Curtain track
All,
Well, all the curtain track replacement is complete and the curtains are
being made as I type this. As a matter of fact, I picked up the dark, olive
green mohair cushions yesterday and they're already in place and looking
pretty darned good. the lime green curtains with muslin liners will be
ready by mid week or earlier. The tropical pattern shams(sp?) that were a
compromise as another family member wanted this 1940's- 50's pattern for the
curtains, will be ready for pickup tomorrow. Yeah!
I now have more extra curtain track than any one man should be legally
allowed to own, so it's time to share my largess with those who need some.
If you're in the middle of a curtain track project and about to tear
your hair out for lack of material, I might be just the guy to talk to.
I have varying lengths of three distinct types of original Airstream
track that was found in my 1969. Some of the track was probably used in
other year models but the odd shaped 3" track with 1/4" slot for the top of
the curtains I so desperately needed, was at least in the 1968 models as
well as 1969 because I finally got mine from a 1968 and it's identical to
some of the original left in my Caravel when I bought her.
The other styles are for use at the bottom of the curtains. One style
has the 1/4" slot facing toward the center of the trailer, or horizontally
and the other style also has a 1/4" slot, but it faces up or toward the
ceiling. In any event, I've have a drawing with all three shapes shown for
those really in need. The 3" stuff is raw aluminum while the other two
styles I have are: Some gold and some clear anodized of both styles.
What this all boils down to is that I have a lot of track to share with
as many as I have material for, so if you really need some of this track for
your personal use, don't want it to resell for personal profit and contact
me with your requirements, I'd be more than glad to send any item length,
simply for the cost of postage.
Talk to me,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA 9403-2218
Home phone: 310.453.1892
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 21:21:50 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] new pics
Hi All,
I finally got some new wide angle shots developed. I've posted some here:
http://my.raex.com/~bpatt/MyPhotos
Be sure to scroll over to the right to see all 11 pics.
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 19:58:21 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] new pics
Bob:
Wow - I really like your colors and the floor pattern - it's just
terrific. and the woodwork and exposed pipes look really fine! So smart
and clever. Way to go.
Jo Ann
On 3, Sep 2004, at 6:21 PM, Bob Patterson wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I finally got some new wide angle shots developed. I've posted some
> here:
> http://my.raex.com/~bpatt/MyPhotos
>
> Be sure to scroll over to the right to see all 11 pics.
>
> Bob
>
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> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 20:40:59 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Bob's restoration...
Yeah, Bob, you've done an outstanding job. I really like the lavatory sink,
and I think I've finally decided what to do with the floor in mine. . . thanks
and congratulations !
Mark in Modesto
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #360
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