The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #343
VAL Digest Wednesday, August 18 2004 Volume 01 : Number 343
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #341
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #341
[VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
[VAL] Sagging step solution
Re: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
Re: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
[VAL]RE: Mark's Mystery Tradewind in Modesto
Re: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
Re: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
[VAL] Starting an airconditioner compressor
Re: [VAL] Starting an airconditioner compressor
[VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
[VAL] I'm spoiled
Re: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
Re: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
Re: [VAL] I'm spoiled
RE: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
FW: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
Re: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
Re: [VAL] Starting an airconditioner compressor
[VAL] Re: LED lights
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 10:59:01 -0400
From: Patrick A McSween <pamcsween@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #341
Jim'
Another source for LED's is http://superbrightleds.com/. They have a
large selection of LED's an related parts.
In the beginning there was nothing. Then it blew up.
Pat
On Aug 16, 2004, at 1:00 AM, VAL Digest wrote:
> Has anyone here built LED light assemblies for their Airstream or seen
> any
> good references on making these. I did a web search but didn't find
> any
> good information. I'm interested in lights with less current draw and
> thus
> a longer battery life.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 10:59:01 -0400
From: Patrick A McSween <pamcsween@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #341
Jim'
Another source for LED's is http://superbrightleds.com/. They have a
large selection of LED's an related parts.
In the beginning there was nothing. Then it blew up.
Pat
On Aug 16, 2004, at 1:00 AM, VAL Digest wrote:
> Has anyone here built LED light assemblies for their Airstream or seen
> any
> good references on making these. I did a web search but didn't find
> any
> good information. I'm interested in lights with less current draw and
> thus
> a longer battery life.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 11:18:02 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
Hi All,
Haven't read many threads and didn't try the achieves - lazy I guess. Hope
you don't mind and will give me some feedback.
I bought the Honda EU2000 generator and obviously it won't handle the usual
roof top AC. However, I noticed a 110 volt smaller AC (about 100 square
feet capable) that had a max ampere of 15.
Does anyone have experience with a small unit like this possibly used as a
temporary window unit? How could I be sure that the generator could handle
the start amperes of the AC?
Sure appreciate help with this,
'74 Argosy 22, Joy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 10:21:56 -0500
From: "Brian Jenkins" <jenkins1924@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Sagging step solution
Hello all,
I've got the same style step on my '56 Caravanner, and even though it stays
up I'm concerned about it dropping if I hit a hard bump. I intend place the
step in the raised position and drill a hole through the front of the frame
and step. Then I'll put a removable clip or bolt and nut through both holes.
Brian
_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee.
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 08:35:25 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
Instead of messing with a temporary window unit, why not consider another
EU-2000 and running them in parallel?
I guess I'm not a fan of anything that sticks out of the windows of an A/S,
and the attendant problems with installing/de-installing.
Roger
Roger Hightower, WBCCI #4165, VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
2002 Ford F-250 PSD
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 11:15:03 -0500
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
I would like to "second" this recommendation... The 2000 was not available
when I bought the 3K version... the 3k was about $1800 and the 2- 2k units
will probably run $2000.... The advantage is that they are smaller ,
portable, and you can run one to cover lighting and TV and start up the
parallel unit to cover the AC when required.... I can't lift the 3K unit
very easily and have used a engine hoist to get it in and out of the back
of the truck..... The 2k units are a lot easier to handle....
Jim
At 10:35 AM 8/17/2004, you wrote:
>Instead of messing with a temporary window unit, why not consider another
>EU-2000 and running them in parallel?
>
>I guess I'm not a fan of anything that sticks out of the windows of an A/S,
>and the attendant problems with installing/de-installing.
>
>Roger
>
>Roger Hightower, WBCCI #4165, VAC
>1975 31' Sovereign
>2002 Ford F-250 PSD
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 11:14:07 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL]RE: Mark's Mystery Tradewind in Modesto
Greetings RL!
The Overlanders and Tradewinds (seems to be mid-1950s to mid-1960s)
could be had with the "dual braking system". My '64 Overlander
originally only had electric brakes on one axle and it is only recently
that I learned that the second axle was originally equipped with
hydraulic brakes (not surge, but designed to be directly connected to
the towcar's brakes). When I purchased the coach in 1995 one of the
documents in it folder was a receipt from the conversion of the second
(hydraulic brake) axle to electric brakes (dated in 1968) - - this would
have corresponded to when the original owner's upgraded tow vehicles and
switched from a Mercury tow vehicle to an Oldsmobile.
So far, the reported instances (so far as I am aware) of these "tandem
systems" have been on either Overlanders or Tradewinds - - both of which
were or recently had been available as tandem or single axle coaches.
While my Overlander had the standard tandem axle, a knowledgeable
informant suggested that it was available with electric brakes on only
one axle of the "tandem system" when it was new - - I have not been able
to find reference to this in any of the literature that I have. Andy of
Inland RV has posted that the tandem electric/hydraulic braking
combination was a 1950s/early 1960s factory setup. If my information is
correct, 1960 was the last year for the single axle Overlander, and 1964
was the last year for the single axle Tradewind. My understanding based
upon posts on another list is that one system or the other was utilized
on coaches with the "tandem" braking arrangement.
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Richard McFarland
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 6:33 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Mark's Mystery Tradewind in Modesto
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 13:59:43 -0700
From: "Mark"
Subject: [VAL] Link to the gilded Airstream picture...
Here's the direct link:
http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/875/sort/1/cat
/50
0/
page/1
Mark in Modesto
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark - a couple of questions about your interesting mystery 1962
Tradewind:
You've mentioned you've owned it for 25 years and that it's a tandem
axle
and it has both electric and hydraulic brakes as well as Dura-Torques.
Is the double brake system a common set-up? I've not heard of it to
date.
Is one system the primary one and the other a back up? Is the duplicate
system on both axles? Since you've owned it so long - does the system
appear
to be factory installed?
Or - are you talking about an electrically "boosted" hydraulic system?
I believe that the tandem axle installation on the 1962 Tradewinds was
an
option and that tandems were not standard until a few years later? Also
- - I
think in your picture it looks like you have a 5-panel roof (it's a
little
hard to tell with the glare in the photo). I think this was a time when
the
switch from 7-panels to 5 was taking place. The panel design switch did
not
take place on all models at the same time - at least from what I've
discovered
from when Airstream started it's earlier switch from 13 to 7 back in the
mid-50's.
Best Wishes. RL McFarland
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 13:21:38 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
Any way you can mount the 3kw generator on the trailer A-frame? I've just
begun my quest to have a totally self-contained Airstream RV. I plan to use
a "thin" gasoline engine directly coupled to the AC generator head mounted
behind my propane tanks and in front of the trailer body. My *choice* of a
gasoline engine would of course be made by Honda -- and I'd also replace the
stock muffler with one of the *quiet* models being made today.
The generator head I've got in mind would be 6kw in capacity which is more
than I need for now. But, should I ever put a second AC on the rooftop of
our 34' FK Excella 1000 model I'd need the extra power. And, if a fellow
camper needed some power I'd have it to spare. ;)
In my research I've found I need 2 HP to produce 1kw of power -- so the 6kw
would need 12 HP for an engine but maybe you could get away with an 11 HP
engine. Recently I purchased the biggest single cylinder engine horizontal
shaft engine made by Honda today, the GX390 model for just over $350.00 and
it's only been used for under 2 hours it's entire life as it was used by a
researcher making muffler designs.
Now I need the generator head which can be bought new for about $300, a gas
tank if I wanted a larger one than the one that comes with the GX390 engine,
a very small control panel with outlets and breakers I can design and make
myself. I plan to have a custom frame welded to hold all of this and then
I'll add outside sheets of aluminum or stainless steel to form a box which
will have about 3/4" of rubber insulation material on all inside surfaces to
deaden the sound. With a sound insulated box, a custom "quiet muffler" I
should be able to run my generator without disturbing my "close-by"
neighbors.
There really is space behind our propane tanks for a generator if you are
willing to do most of the work yourself. Once I get "my design" down to the
real deal I may offer to do this for others "for a fee". After all, none of
us can do anything for nothing and time is our most sacred commodity.
As Jim did on his Airstream which is totally electric with his water cooled
RV Honda engine setup, I will also have a couple of fans running inside the
"box" whenever the generator is switched on to provide cooling air to the
unit.
It is also possible that I will make some type of contraption so that I
could actually wheel the generator TO the trailer and then have it "lift"
itself with bit of engineering and some muscle strength (very little, don't
plan to imitate a gorilla here!) and leverage. This way I could remove the
generator when needed if the need should ever arise. I do believe that our
trailers are much more useful to us if we can have *all* the extras
available to use whether it is boondocking at Wal*Mart or a Flying J for the
night or real boondocking with all the comforts of home on hand. Parking my
trailer during the daytime in the heat without air conditioning is not an
option -- for us.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Jim Clark" <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
> I would like to "second" this recommendation... The 2000 was not available
> when I bought the 3K version... the 3k was about $1800 and the 2- 2k units
> will probably run $2000.... The advantage is that they are smaller ,
> portable, and you can run one to cover lighting and TV and start up the
> parallel unit to cover the AC when required.... I can't lift the 3K unit
> very easily and have used a engine hoist to get it in and out of the back
> of the truck..... The 2k units are a lot easier to handle....
>
>
> Jim
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 13:31:21 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
Joy,
You need to find out what the "starting amperage" is for this small air
conditioner is. If I recall starting amperage usually requires about 50%
more power than the running amps would be. If you say this unit needs 15
running amps then the "starting amperage" would be about 22.5 starting amps.
How many amps does the EU2000 Honda put out?
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] AC for my Argosy while boon docking?
> Hi All,
>
> Haven't read many threads and didn't try the achieves - lazy I guess.
Hope
> you don't mind and will give me some feedback.
>
> I bought the Honda EU2000 generator and obviously it won't handle the
usual
> roof top AC. However, I noticed a 110 volt smaller AC (about 100 square
> feet capable) that had a max ampere of 15.
>
> Does anyone have experience with a small unit like this possibly used as a
> temporary window unit? How could I be sure that the generator could
handle
> the start amperes of the AC?
>
> Sure appreciate help with this,
>
> '74 Argosy 22, Joy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 12:36:00 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Starting an airconditioner compressor
Most often the starting current for an alternating current induction motor as
used for an air conditioning compressor is 5 to 6 times the running current.
That will depend on the motor design and the line voltage regulation. That is
most often listed on the compressor as the "Locked Rotor" current or the "LR"
current. To start the compressor with a generator, that generator has to be
able to supply that LR current (plus any other loads that are on at the time)
for a surge period. Many generators have a surge current rating. If not they
probably don't have a great surge capability. When a generator is
drastically overloaded, it tends to kill off the field excitation which then
cascades the available voltage downward to zero. Or if the field excitation
doesn't quit, it can kill the gas engine which often doesn't have a large
reserve torque capacity.
If you want to run an air conditioner with a generator, you have to work with
the surge rating of the generator and the locked rotor current of the
compressor. Without the surge rating of the generator exceeding the locked
rotor current of the compressor, the combination will have unsatisfactory
performance, mostly in stalling the generator output each time the
compressor tries to start.
There are ways around the surge rating of the generator. One is to use a
battery for the primary power source, charged by the generator, with an
inverter having an adequate surge rating to run the compressor. Its not as
energy efficient as the generator driving the compressor motor directly, but
by using the battery to supply that short term peak the generator and
engine size can be set for just a little more than the steady load and achieve
a more compact and possibly more efficient arrangement by running the
engine close to rated load most of the time.
There are pitfalls to all of this. The first one is that at least 3/4 the heat energy
in the fuel fed to the engine comes out as heat, from the block and the
exhaust. There has to be good air circulation or the engine will overheat.
That means fans or water. The relatively thin skin of the air cooled engine
block then transmits the noise of combustion plus the noise of the camshaft
gears and the valve operations. The world's best exhaust muffler won't make
the air cooled engine quiet, there's a lot of noise other than exhaust noise. So
that takes an enclosure and that enclosure must restrict air flow to hold in
noise. Its a tough battle.
The second pitfall is that the excess heat raises the local environmental
temperature. First the waste heat from the engine, then a little from the
generator, and the compressor motor and then the reject heat from the air
conditioning process. So while the INSIDE of the trailer is cooled, the local
environs are warmed, making it less comfortable for those nearby and
outside. Its a no win situation.
Perhaps one considering building the generator from pieces could consider
driving the compressor directly from the engine. That would solve much of
the starting surge problem and be slightly more energy efficient. Then one
may have to add an electric starter to the engine so the thermostat can
cycle the pair or perhaps an electric clutch as used on automotive air
condition (which could supply the belt driven compressor). Perhaps a small
version of the engine powered refrigeration used on some semi-trailers would
be a possibility. I don't know how they control temperature and some are
using small diesel engines which probably prices them all out of reason for the
RV air conditioning application.
One could dispense with the inverter by building the air conditioner around a
12 volt DC compressor, still using the battery to supply the starting peak, and
the engine and generator to charge the battery directly. Then most all other
loads need to be 12 volt DC with is practical except for the microwave.
Perhaps one could consider using the adsorption cycle of the RV refrigerator.
I doubt it is as thermally efficient as the generator and motor driven
compressor but its inherently quiet and runs directly on propane or can be
heated by electricity. An old RV refrigerator with a large size ought to cool
the trailer detectably. I know when I left the refrigerator door open in my old
Monitor trailer and thought I turned off the gas but also turned on the
electricity it ran for more than a month that way. I don't remember the
temperature in the trailer, it was summer, but I did notice the 2 KWH per day
on the barn's electric bill the next month so I went over and turned off the
refrigerator. I've not used that refrigerator since and last fall I disassembled
that trailer but I kept the refrigerator. Its box is too patched to be saleable
as a refrigerator though I may use it during house construction in the next few
months.
It may be more effective to work with fans, and a shading canopy for some
warm weather comfort, or plan to be in northern climes during hot weather.
Right now Iowa just hit a heat wave, it might get up to 80 but its been below
70 for the daily highs for the last two weeks. As low as 45 at night. This is very
unusually cold for August. Normals are more like 90 during state fair week (this
week).
I have a long dislike for air conditioning from early life experiences that were
painful and from finding that when my hands are a little chilly they ache. I
continue to dislike having my environment warmed by the inefficiencies of air
conditioning and the heat removed from vehicles and buildings and put into
that environment I'm in. So I'm biased.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 15:47:17 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Starting an airconditioner compressor
Dr G,
If we ever get to park close together it will be when the weather is cold
enough that I must run the Airstream heater; only. In RV parks I run my a/c
to keep the interior cool for the our dogs that always, always travel with
us. If we are on the road having fun the so are our animals; no locking
them up at our vet's office for them.
Running my a/c also keeps the dogs from hearing what is going on outside so
they don't contribute to any excess "noise" pollution by barking at strange
sounds to them. When parked with the windows closed and the a/c on I also
leave on music to mask any noise my dogs *might* hear to which they might
bark and disturb others.
I'm very aware of my surroundings and I try my best to keep my dogs *quiet*
so that they hardly, if ever, disturb other neighbors. I do the same thing
at our home; my dogs do *not* cause problems, I won't allow it to happen and
as such I feel that I am doing both my dogs and others what is expected out
of me as an animal owner.
Don't you wish *all* pet owners were as thoughtful? I sure do!
We've come back to our spot at an RV park and when we take the dogs for a
walk people actually stop and tell us that they had "no idea dogs were in
your trailer." To which I reply, "Good! No one is supposed to hear them."
That's the ideal situation for us; quiet, peaceful animals that don't bother
anyone's camping experience.
So you see, I'm just as biased the other way because it keeps my animals
comfortable and *quiet* and no one complains about us being noisy and
thoughtless neighbors.
Granted, in an RV park we would be hooked up (if we are lucky!) to service
that is able to handle our needs which currently is 30-amps. Should I ever
put in a second a/c I will need more, maybe. Since the a/c on this
Airstream is in the middle of the trailer and it's the larger unit since
ours is a 34' model installing a second seems doubtful at this point in
time.
It is when we are on the road and want to stop and visit an area like a nice
shopping or dining area that the generator would be extremely handy to have.
To be able to stop and go shopping or have dinner knowing that my dogs are
safe and sound and cool and sleeping and listening to music is the best of
all situations for us. I can't tell you how many times we've been unable to
stop and enjoy the local scene because we always have to ask ourselves,
"What are we going to do about the dogs?" If it's a quiet area on some
lonely island next to the waterway it's not a problem usually, if the
weather is *not* a factor; either too hot or too cold.
We are not the type of people that would leave our animals in the vehicle
while we do the town and let others deal with our creatures, we just don't
DO that. So, I have to take care of my animals the best way I know how.
Sorry if you are not big on my generator idea but I'm just as sure that some
others are reading this exchange of information and finding it interesting
to say the least.
Tom
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Starting an airconditioner compressor
> Most often the starting current for an alternating current induction motor
as
> used for an air conditioning compressor is 5 to 6 times the running
current.
> That will depend on the motor design and the line voltage regulation. That
is
> most often listed on the compressor as the "Locked Rotor" current or the
"LR"
> current. To start the compressor with a generator, that generator has to
be
> able to supply that LR current (plus any other loads that are on at the
time)
> for a surge period. Many generators have a surge current rating. If not
they
> probably don't have a great surge capability. When a generator is
> drastically overloaded, it tends to kill off the field excitation which
then
> cascades the available voltage downward to zero. Or if the field
excitation
> doesn't quit, it can kill the gas engine which often doesn't have a large
> reserve torque capacity.
>
> If you want to run an air conditioner with a generator, you have to work
with
> the surge rating of the generator and the locked rotor current of the
> compressor. Without the surge rating of the generator exceeding the locked
> rotor current of the compressor, the combination will have unsatisfactory
> performance, mostly in stalling the generator output each time the
> compressor tries to start.
>
> There are ways around the surge rating of the generator. One is to use a
> battery for the primary power source, charged by the generator, with an
> inverter having an adequate surge rating to run the compressor. Its not as
> energy efficient as the generator driving the compressor motor directly,
but
> by using the battery to supply that short term peak the generator and
> engine size can be set for just a little more than the steady load and
achieve
> a more compact and possibly more efficient arrangement by running the
> engine close to rated load most of the time.
>
> There are pitfalls to all of this. The first one is that at least 3/4 the
heat energy
> in the fuel fed to the engine comes out as heat, from the block and the
> exhaust. There has to be good air circulation or the engine will overheat.
> That means fans or water. The relatively thin skin of the air cooled
engine
> block then transmits the noise of combustion plus the noise of the
camshaft
> gears and the valve operations. The world's best exhaust muffler won't
make
> the air cooled engine quiet, there's a lot of noise other than exhaust
noise. So
> that takes an enclosure and that enclosure must restrict air flow to hold
in
> noise. Its a tough battle.
>
> The second pitfall is that the excess heat raises the local environmental
> temperature. First the waste heat from the engine, then a little from the
> generator, and the compressor motor and then the reject heat from the air
> conditioning process. So while the INSIDE of the trailer is cooled, the
local
> environs are warmed, making it less comfortable for those nearby and
> outside. Its a no win situation.
>
> Perhaps one considering building the generator from pieces could consider
> driving the compressor directly from the engine. That would solve much of
> the starting surge problem and be slightly more energy efficient. Then one
> may have to add an electric starter to the engine so the thermostat can
> cycle the pair or perhaps an electric clutch as used on automotive air
> condition (which could supply the belt driven compressor). Perhaps a small
> version of the engine powered refrigeration used on some semi-trailers
would
> be a possibility. I don't know how they control temperature and some are
> using small diesel engines which probably prices them all out of reason
for the
> RV air conditioning application.
>
> One could dispense with the inverter by building the air conditioner
around a
> 12 volt DC compressor, still using the battery to supply the starting
peak, and
> the engine and generator to charge the battery directly. Then most all
other
> loads need to be 12 volt DC with is practical except for the microwave.
>
> Perhaps one could consider using the adsorption cycle of the RV
refrigerator.
> I doubt it is as thermally efficient as the generator and motor driven
> compressor but its inherently quiet and runs directly on propane or can be
> heated by electricity. An old RV refrigerator with a large size ought to
cool
> the trailer detectably. I know when I left the refrigerator door open in
my old
> Monitor trailer and thought I turned off the gas but also turned on the
> electricity it ran for more than a month that way. I don't remember the
> temperature in the trailer, it was summer, but I did notice the 2 KWH per
day
> on the barn's electric bill the next month so I went over and turned off
the
> refrigerator. I've not used that refrigerator since and last fall I
disassembled
> that trailer but I kept the refrigerator. Its box is too patched to be
saleable
> as a refrigerator though I may use it during house construction in the
next few
> months.
>
> It may be more effective to work with fans, and a shading canopy for some
> warm weather comfort, or plan to be in northern climes during hot weather.
> Right now Iowa just hit a heat wave, it might get up to 80 but its been
below
> 70 for the daily highs for the last two weeks. As low as 45 at night.
This is very
> unusually cold for August. Normals are more like 90 during state fair week
(this
> week).
>
> I have a long dislike for air conditioning from early life experiences
that were
> painful and from finding that when my hands are a little chilly they
ache. I
> continue to dislike having my environment warmed by the inefficiencies of
air
> conditioning and the heat removed from vehicles and buildings and put into
> that environment I'm in. So I'm biased.
>
> Gerald J.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 13:13:04 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
All,
Well, the time has arrived for me to turn my energies to curtains in my
'69 Caravel. I now have all the original curtain track in place and need
someones help as to which sliders I need where.
Here's what I have:
1. Front windows: dual wheel with bail for the I-beam track above and
below. That's kind of taken care of already unless I have it wrong?
2. The 1/4" wide slot in the odd shaped track over the galley, the
curbside window and the rear windows. These slots face down.
3. 1/4" wide slot in track at the bottom of the rear and curbside
windows with the slot facing up.
4. Here's the only different one. A 1/4" wide slot in the track at the
bottom of the galley window adjacent to the burners that faces toward the
center of the living space or horizontally as opposed to all others that
face vertically.
My best guess is that of all but the front windows will require the
sliders with the 1/2" X 3/4" lattice attached with the exception of that one
outboard of the stove. Will that one also require the lattice sliders,
despite its being horizontal?
I will defer to others who have been this route before me for any help.
Web site references and/or images would be great.
Thanks in advance to all,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 15:11:10 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] I'm spoiled
Tom, I live in farm country where my nearest neighbor is about a half mile
away. Coming to a camp ground where my nearest neighbor is 10 feet away
seems to be going backwards. So I overreact to noise and heat generators.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:51:44 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
Glyn: I'am not sure if this will help but I have a 69 Tradewind (25 ft)
will all the original curtains. I would be glad to take some pictures and send,
now that I have a digital camera. Let me know specifically what pictures
would be most helpful.
Tom Fairbank
1969 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 16:26:12 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
Glyn,
Check Inland RV's site at http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/ about 3/4 of the way
down the page. You will see links to pictures of the Kirsh style tabs and right
below them the pictures of "G" and "T" style tabs. The "G" style is commonly
used in tracks with the horizontal slot. And while it is not usually seen in a
'69 they may do the job.
Charlie
Glyn Judson wrote:
> All,
>
> Well, the time has arrived for me to turn my energies to curtains in my
> '69 Caravel. I now have all the original curtain track in place and need
> someones help as to which sliders I need where.
>
> Here's what I have:
>
> 1. Front windows: dual wheel with bail for the I-beam track above and
> below. That's kind of taken care of already unless I have it wrong?
>
> 2. The 1/4" wide slot in the odd shaped track over the galley, the
> curbside window and the rear windows. These slots face down.
>
> 3. 1/4" wide slot in track at the bottom of the rear and curbside
> windows with the slot facing up.
>
> 4. Here's the only different one. A 1/4" wide slot in the track at the
> bottom of the galley window adjacent to the burners that faces toward the
> center of the living space or horizontally as opposed to all others that
> face vertically.
>
> My best guess is that of all but the front windows will require the
> sliders with the 1/2" X 3/4" lattice attached with the exception of that one
> outboard of the stove. Will that one also require the lattice sliders,
> despite its being horizontal?
>
> I will defer to others who have been this route before me for any help.
>
> Web site references and/or images would be great.
>
> Thanks in advance to all,
>
> Glyn Judson
> 1969 Caravel #508
> Santa Monica CA
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 18:28:02 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] I'm spoiled
I don't like those close campgrounds either, Dr G. We'd much rather stay at
state parks than private ones but that's not always an option.
I read of one guy who said it was so quiet where he lived in the country he
could hear a bird fart 100 yards away! Seems that you have country company.
;) My nearest neighbors live but an acre away which is far better than when
we lived just 15 feet between houses in Miami. In some places in south FL
now they are building zero lot line houses, one side of each house IS built
on the property line. Can't imagine asking the neighbor if it's okay to
paint "his" side of "my" house. Couldn't stand living like that.
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2004 4:11 PM
Subject: [VAL] I'm spoiled
> Tom, I live in farm country where my nearest neighbor is about a half mile
> away. Coming to a camp ground where my nearest neighbor is 10 feet away
> seems to be going backwards. So I overreact to noise and heat generators.
>
> Gerald J.
>
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 15:35:28 -0700
From: "Judy White" <djmurtha@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
Glyn:
The hooks you describe are T-hooks and G-hooks. The T-hooks fit into the
1/4 inch slots you describe, top and bottom, and have the lattice part that
is sewn to the drapes. The G-hooks roll over the I-beam track and are also
sewn top and bottom.
Camping World has photos at
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/products/index.cfm?deptID=4&subOf=228,22&;
prodID=3433 or Departments > Interior > Furnishings > Drapery & Curtains.
A better and probably cheaper source would be your local fabric store chain
that carries drapery fabric & supplies. Ask for the T- and G-hooks.
If you don't want to do it yourself, another option is James P. Ambruso,
Inc. in FL who advertises in the Blue Beret. 800-813-7686 I've heard
others speak highly of his work, he specializes in Airstream drapes.
You wrote:
4. Here's the only different one. A 1/4" wide slot in the track at the
bottom of the galley window adjacent to the burners that faces toward the
center of the living space or horizontally as opposed to all others that
face vertically.
This one puzzles me...I have an ugly roller shade on the kitchen window!
Judy White
72-27 Ambassador
East of Seattle
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 15:42:22 -0700
From: "Judy White" <djmurtha@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: FW: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
Glyn:
A P.S....
Camping World has photos at
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/products/index.cfm?deptID=4&subOf=228,22&;
prodID=3433 or Departments > Interior > Furnishings > Drapery & Curtains.
Look at style #1 for G-hook and style #6 for T-hooks.
Judy White
72-27 Ambassador
East of Seattle
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 18:19:05 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
Tom,
That would be just great. Would it be asking too much to see what are
at the tops of the 1/4" slotted tracks (the odd shaped 3" wide ones in my
Caravel) as well as the more conventional ones at the bottom with the 1/4"
slot pointing up? If you had one with the 1/4" slot pointing horizontally,
that would cover all my needs.
Thanks so mush for offering,
Glyn
> From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:51:44 EDT
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] A call for curtain slider selection help
>
> Glyn: I'am not sure if this will help but I have a 69 Tradewind (25 ft)
> will all the original curtains. I would be glad to take some pictures and
> send,
> now that I have a digital camera. Let me know specifically what pictures
> would be most helpful.
>
> Tom Fairbank
> 1969 Tradewind
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 21:38:26 -0400
From: "JACK SLOAN" <nyseconds@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Starting an airconditioner compressor
Tom, dogs bark... it's what they do. I'm sure people appreciate your
thoughtfulness.... But do you pick up their poops?
> I'm very aware of my surroundings and I try my best to keep my dogs
*quiet*
> so that they hardly, if ever, disturb other neighbors. I do the same
thing
> at our home; my dogs do *not* cause problems, I won't allow it to happen
and
> as such I feel that I am doing both my dogs and others what is expected
out
> of me as an animal owner.
>
> Don't you wish *all* pet owners were as thoughtful? I sure do!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 20:40:35 -0700
From: Rob Super <robsuper@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: LED lights
Check out
www.superbrightleds.com
.I'm impressed w/their offerings and bought several modules that I'm
experimenting with. Leaning toward mixing some "yellow" in with "white"
in order to get away from the electric blue cast of the latter.
Have fun.
Rob
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #343
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