VAL Digest V1 #342

VAL Digest          Tuesday, August 17 2004          Volume 01 : Number 342




-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

Topics in Today's Digest:

RE: [VAL] Sagging Step -  won't latch in up postion
RE: [VAL] Sagging Step -  won't latch in up postion
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #338
[VAL] Mark in Modesto - who is this Lauren?
Re: [VAL] Mark in Modesto - who is this Lauren?
[VAL] Wanted safe covered storage in Albany NY area
RE: [VAL] Hitch problems
[VAL] Airstream for Sale
Re: [VAL] TIRES ???
Re: [VAL] Hitch problems
Re: [VAL] Sagging Step -  won't latch in up postion
Re: [VAL] Hitch problems
Re: [VAL] Hitch problems
Re: [VAL] LED lights
Re: [VAL] Hitch problems
Re: [VAL] Hitch problems and RTV
Re: [VAL] Hitch problems and RTV
Re: [VAL] Hitch problems
Re: [VAL] Hitch problems and RTV
[VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally
[VAL] Mark's Mystery Tradewind in Modesto
Re: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally
Re: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally
Re: [VAL] Mark's Mystery Tradewind in Modesto
[VAL] CORRECTION to:  Mark's Mystery Tradewind in Modesto
RE: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally
RE: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally
[VAL] Another Vintage Airstream website

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 22:04:48 -0700
From: "Judy White" <djmurtha@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Sagging Step -  won't latch in up postion

Daisy wrote:

Judy, I have no idea why, but my step just started staying up, except on 
REALLY bad bumps. I think maybe I sprayed some siliconde under there. 
Doesnt make much sense but something worked. It stayed up for 2 months 
on the road this summer except for one RR track bump.

Someone wrote that they riveted a canvas strap with a snap to the 
underside and used that to hold it up.

Daisy


Hope yours keeps staying up!  My favorite mechanic stopped by and rolled
around underneath...Started talking about unbolting the stabilizer jack,
dropping the belly pan around the step and rebending whatever is unbent
behind the step framework...When I suggested the strap solution I heard a
lot of grumbling about makeshift unrepeatables!  With 4 days to the next
road trip...I may have to do something strappy!  

Thanks for the help.

Judy White
72-27 Int'l Ambassador...The Silver Slug

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 22:04:48 -0700
From: "Judy White" <djmurtha@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Sagging Step -  won't latch in up postion

Rob...Wish I had that tab!  Alas, Maxwell is 8 years more vintage than my
Silver Slug...Thanks for the help though.  

Judy


Judy White wrote:

>I've searched the archives for solutions and found mention of a tab to
>bend...
>
You can see the tab just to the left of center, it has a 90 deg. bend at 
the bottom:
 http://www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/During/door/step.jpg

Rob Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
Denver, CO

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 22:28:49 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #338

Thanks again, Lauren, your input is appreciated.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 01:50:25 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Mark in Modesto - who is this Lauren?

Who is this Lauren  you refer to, Mark?  I don't even see her posts.

Since you are chopping your email so there isn't even a hint of what you are
replying to it's very hard to know what the heck you are talking about.
Can't you leave a sentence or two so your fellow readers can *SEE* what you
are saying and why?

Tom


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 1:28 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #338


> Thanks again, Lauren, your input is appreciated.
>
> Mark
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 23:03:47 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Mark in Modesto - who is this Lauren?

Lauren is he who sent that LONG, comprehensive post about buying five new
powder coated wheels and tires.  The name was a bit buried in the post, but
definitely there.  The sender's name is Helen Countryman, the author signed it
as Lauren...I'm assuming it's Helen's husband, but I could be wrong.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, Tom, I'll try to do better in future.

Best,

Mark in Modesto

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 03:00:24 -0500
From: "Nicholas Sowter" <nicholas.sowter@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Wanted safe covered storage in Albany NY area

Hello there, I am looking for covered/enclosed storage for my 69
overlander, and GMC Surburban.  They are in the Albany, NY area at the
moment, but my current storage arrangements will not be available for
much longer.  I do not mind using commercial storage, I just want to
ensure my trailer and truck are safe. The storage facilities do not have
to be in Albany, but ideally would be no more than 50 miles away, as I
have relatives there.   I am not in the US, and would be travelling to
Albany in October to relocate them for the winter, and possibly next year
as well.  I am a resident in the UK, and do plan to ship them home at
some point, but just now I would like to keep in the US for one or maybe
two more years.  All leads on storage greatfully recieved,  I am of
course willing to pay the going rate for the storage.  Best Regards 
Nick  nicholas.sowter@xxxxxxxxxx.com

- --

___________________________________________________________
Sign-up for Ads Free at Mail.com
http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 09:34:30 -0500
From: "dtidmore" <dtidmore@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Hitch problems

Gerald,
Your comment regarding LocTite is precisely why I have avoided using it on
the receiver attachment nuts.  While I don't have any plans to drop the
receiver off the vehicle, I don't want to preclude that ability.  Even if
the nuts had previously been torqued to spec and secured with LocTite,
should something, such as frame channel compression occur, the tension on
the bolt would no longer be at the spec and this could lead to slight
movement of the receiver while towing, which could lead to more serious
issues over time.  

With all the issues of cold welds cracking on many receivers (primarily
factory units), the need to drop the receiver for repairs and/or replacement
is a potential (fortunately, my particular brand of receiver, Drawtite/Reese
Dual-Port, has not been reported as among the offenders, nor has mine shown
any signs of cracked welds).  I also use my 150ft lb rate, 1/2" socket drive
to check the torque on the aluminum rims of the trailer and the truck as
well as the bolts on the Hensley Arrow.  A very handy tool to have in the
arsenal.

David Tidmore

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 07:58:45 -0700
From: "Barbara Gallegos" <bgallegos1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Airstream for Sale

We have a 29' 1975 International Ambassador we would like to sell.  The
trailer is in Ensenada, Mexico, where we have had it for about 12 yrs.  It's
in very good condition, but like us, the skin needs buffing and polishing.  We
lost the big awning in some high winds, but the other window awnings are still
there.  California tags are up-to-date.   This is our 2nd Airstream and we
love it, but in retirement we're spending more time in Mexico and need more
space.

Do any of you have an idea of the price range?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 11:26:28 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] TIRES ???

Thanks
Bobby
  ----- Original Message -----
  Wrom: KVFVWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRW
  To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
  Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 11:03 AM
  Subject: Re: [VAL] TIRES ???


  Titan Tire and Wheel company. HQ Memphis (owner owns the football
  team there). Bought Armstrong tire for ag and specialty tires in Des
  Moines a few years ago.

  I found them at local tire stores in central Iowa but I bought them at
  Farley Wholesale Tire Company in Boone, Iowa where the price was much
  better.

  I see them listed in some RV catalogs too.

  Gerald J.

  --
  Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
  Reproduction by permission only.

  -----------------------------------------------------------------
  When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text

  To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
  http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html<http://www.tompatter
son.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 11:29:07 -0400
From: "JACK SLOAN" <nyseconds@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems

Hi All-

    I've had good luck with using "RTV" or silicon rubber sealant or
adhesive instead of the LocTite... I've been putting it on the threads &
heads of the bolts and under the bolt/washer/nut. You can leave a little dab
as a 'witness' reference to see if the bolt or nut has turned or backed off.

    I don't think it would be a problem with the torque values I've seen
mentioned here, but -if- the bolts were torqued by a 21 year old gorilla
using the "Armstrong Method", -they could have been stretched, -not a good
situation either. I guess if I had any doubts about -who- torqued the bolts,
and 'how much', I would invest in some new ones, either from the mfgr., or
when I got the specs from them.

    What would the cost of a 'breakaway' be, compared to the cost of the
parts & labor to prevent it?

    For whutits worth-    Jack



- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dtidmore" <dtidmore@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 10:34 AM
Subject: RE: [VAL] Hitch problems


> Gerald,
> Your comment regarding LocTite is precisely why I have avoided using it on
> the receiver attachment nuts.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 11:38:14 -0400
From: "Bobby Gill" <gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sagging Step -  won't latch in up postion

    Judy
    On my '73 Ambassador the step works fine other than dropping down when
hitting some bumps. To eliminate the problem, at least for me it did. I took a
canvas strap about 6 inches long, one end has a snap and the other has an
eyelet.
I then attached the strap to the step with the eyelet and put a screw on snap
retainer on the forward side belly skin. When the step is raised/closed for
travel I just snap the strap and go. It has worked great in helping to keep
the step closed.

Bobby
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Judy White<mailto:djmurtha@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
  To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
  Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 1:04 AM
  Subject: RE: [VAL] Sagging Step - won't latch in up postion


  Daisy wrote:

  Judy, I have no idea why, but my step just started staying up, except on
  REALLY bad bumps. I think maybe I sprayed some siliconde under there.
  Doesnt make much sense but something worked. It stayed up for 2 months
  on the road this summer except for one RR track bump.

  Someone wrote that they riveted a canvas strap with a snap to the
  underside and used that to hold it up.

  Daisy


  Hope yours keeps staying up!  My favorite mechanic stopped by and rolled
  around underneath...Started talking about unbolting the stabilizer jack,
  dropping the belly pan around the step and rebending whatever is unbent
  behind the step framework...When I suggested the strap solution I heard a
  lot of grumbling about makeshift unrepeatables!  With 4 days to the next
  road trip...I may have to do something strappy!

  Thanks for the help.

  Judy White
  72-27 Int'l Ambassador...The Silver Slug

  -----------------------------------------------------------------
  When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text

  To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
  http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html<http://www.tompatter
son.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 11:54:37 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems

    Marking the bolts after you properly torque them is a very good thing.
On aircraft wing attach bolts we use what we call Torque Stripe to mark the
bolt heads and nuts. It's in a tube about the size of lock tite. You can get
it from Fasten-all if you have one nearby or order on-line.

Bobby
  ----- Original Message -----
  Wrom: WOYIYZUNNYCGPKYLEJGDGVCJVTLBXFGGMEPYOQKEDOTW
  To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
  Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 11:29 AM
  Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems


  Hi All-

      I've had good luck with using "RTV" or silicon rubber sealant or
  adhesive instead of the LocTite... I've been putting it on the threads &
  heads of the bolts and under the bolt/washer/nut. You can leave a little
dab
  as a 'witness' reference to see if the bolt or nut has turned or backed
off.

      I don't think it would be a problem with the torque values I've seen
  mentioned here, but -if- the bolts were torqued by a 21 year old gorilla
  using the "Armstrong Method", -they could have been stretched, -not a good
  situation either. I guess if I had any doubts about -who- torqued the
bolts,
  and 'how much', I would invest in some new ones, either from the mfgr., or
  when I got the specs from them.

      What would the cost of a 'breakaway' be, compared to the cost of the
  parts & labor to prevent it?

      For whutits worth-    Jack



  ----- Original Message -----
  Wrom: FAOBUZXUWLSZLKBRNVWWCUFPEGAUTFJMVRESKPNKMBIPBARHDMNNSK
  To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>>
  Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 10:34 AM
  Subject: RE: [VAL] Hitch problems


  > Gerald,
  > Your comment regarding LocTite is precisely why I have avoided using it
on
  > the receiver attachment nuts.

  -----------------------------------------------------------------
  When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text

  To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
  http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html<http://www.tompatter
son.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 12:28:30 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems

Personally, I wouldn't use anything on the bolt threads that was not
specifically called for by the manufacturer.  I think you could possibly run
into a liability issue if you are using a liquid on the threads and *then*
torque the nuts to a listed value.  In effect, what you would be doing is
"wet torque" and unless that method is specifically called for by the
manufacturer it's not a *correct* torque method.

"Dry torque" is what is called for and that begins with "dry" threads on all
the fastener parts.  Once you begin to tighten things it should be a fluid
motion; don't stop mid-way to the set torque value.  If you have to stop or
are interrupted while torquing these fasteners you *need to* back the nut
off slightly and begin torquing again with a fluid motion until the set
value is reached.

As you can see there is a big difference between wet torque, dry torque
along with stopping and starting over again once you've got the parts moving
towards a set torque value.  If it ever came to *methods used* when the
fasteners were torqued to specs, you want to be on the *right side* of the
argument.  And it's not just about liability issues; it's also about proper
mechanical methods used to obtain a level of safety for you and others.

Once the nuts are torqued to specs there would be nothing wrong with placing
painted line or some other type of *index mark* that you can visually check
to see if anything has backed off.  I'd never put silicone on any threads
that needed a set torque value as torque requires dry threads unless a wet
torque is specifically called for.  The differences are really day and
night.

How nice it would be if once things are torqued to the correct value they
could be safety-wired to keep the parts tight. ;)

Tom
WBCCI 5303

From: "JACK SLOAN" <nyseconds@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems


> Hi All-
>
>     I've had good luck with using "RTV" or silicon rubber sealant or
> adhesive instead of the LocTite... I've been putting it on the threads &
> heads of the bolts and under the bolt/washer/nut. You can leave a little
dab
> as a 'witness' reference to see if the bolt or nut has turned or backed
off.
>
>     I don't think it would be a problem with the torque values I've seen
> mentioned here, but -if- the bolts were torqued by a 21 year old gorilla
> using the "Armstrong Method", -they could have been stretched, -not a good
> situation either. I guess if I had any doubts about -who- torqued the
bolts,
> and 'how much', I would invest in some new ones, either from the mfgr., or
> when I got the specs from them.
>
>     What would the cost of a 'breakaway' be, compared to the cost of the
> parts & labor to prevent it?
>
>     For whutits worth-    Jack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 10:18:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Uwe Salwender <salwender@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] LED lights

- --- Mark <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:

> Thanks for the link, Daisy!
> 
> And to those who like to work with their heads and
> their hands:
> 
> LED's are cheap and easy to work with.  Radio Shack
> carries them in several
> different colors, and they can be found 'out there'
> a whole lot cheaper in
> bulk (sorry, no links).
> 
> Almost any light fixture could be converted to
> utilize a home-made string of
> LEDs, if one likes to solder and operate a
> screwdriver.
> 
> Some LED's put out two colors.  One could have white
> for general lighting and
> red for nighttime coach navigation to the relief
> station (though such a
> fixture would require another switch in the circuit
> to swap colors).
> 
> 
> Just a thought...
> 
> Mark in Modesto
> 
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all
> unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
> go to
>
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> 
> 
Try this:

Superbrightleds.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 13:31:30 -0400
From: "JACK SLOAN" <nyseconds@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems

    Yeah, I'll stand corrected on putting RTV on the -threads- ... although
I have doubts as to any -real- criticality of it on the bolts we're talking
about... same goes for subtracting the running torque, etc. -unless you're
doing mount bolts on a JT-8 (a/c engine) er whatevah.

    As for the liability issue- I'm not too inclined to sue myself... yet. I
said "I've had good luck with...(RTV,etc)" -not that anyone should violate
mfgr's specs and use it in the wanton manner I described.

    Sure glad you caught this and kept it straight-

Thanks, Regards-    Jack

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems


> Personally, I wouldn't use anything on the bolt threads that was not
> specifically called for by the manufacturer.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 12:51:56 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems and RTV

There is a serious problem with using RTV on bolt threads. First it won't cure 
in the threads, continuing to lubricate them. It needs moisture and air to 
cure and most RTV produces acetic acid against the metal as it cures 
(vinegar is a weak acetic acid solution) that leads to more metal 
corrosion than leaving the metal exposed.

There is an RTV from GE and one from the other maker that doesn't 
produce acetic acid when curing. You won't find it in a hardware store or 
home center, only in a really good industrial supply.

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 15:55:24 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems and RTV

You would be referring to the High Strength RTV which comes in a gray color
I believe.

Tom

> There is an RTV from GE and one from the other maker that doesn't
> produce acetic acid when curing. You won't find it in a hardware store or
> home center, only in a really good industrial supply.
>
> Gerald J.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 16:12:22 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems

Jack,

What I was referring to when I mentioned liability was this -- any
instructions not followed correctly as per the manufacturer by consumers
will void any implied or stated warranty by the manufacturer most likely.
That is, if someone were to use anything on the threaded portion of these
parts and there was a failure of these parts due to a manufacturing
defect -- the consumer would not be covered because the manufacturer would
most likely say that whatever the consumer did was what led to the failure
of the parts.  The manufacturer would be home free and clear if they can
ever point there finger and blame someone else even if it really was their
parts that failed and might have even caused an accident.

I was trying to say before that if you follow the manufacturers directions
to the 'nth degree you will be OK should the parts ever fail from a
liability standpoint.  My point being -- why give the manufacturer any
excuse to deny liability on *their* part?  When it comes to having to do
warranty work or pay for damages you know "no one" really wants to pay out
of  *their* pocket -- including the manufacturer.  Why open ourselves up to
any liability for failure of the parts as has been discussed here like the
failure of welds, etc.?

As far as the importance of torquing parts to specs -- that's really
important even if you are not hanging an engine on an airplane.  The values
they give you as a consumer are there for a reason -- it covers the maker's
butt. ;)  And, if everyone follows the safety directions it also makes for a
better experience on the highway for all of us.  Granted, there will always
be someone who won't follow the specs and then go looking for someone to
blame other than himself -- I'm not speaking of you here -- we see it every
day, don't we.

Tom


From: "JACK SLOAN" <nyseconds@xxxxxxxxxx.net>


>     Yeah, I'll stand corrected on putting RTV on the -threads- ...
although
> I have doubts as to any -real- criticality of it on the bolts we're
talking
> about... same goes for subtracting the running torque, etc. -unless you're
> doing mount bolts on a JT-8 (a/c engine) er whatevah.
>
>     As for the liability issue- I'm not too inclined to sue myself... yet.
I
> said "I've had good luck with...(RTV,etc)" -not that anyone should violate
> mfgr's specs and use it in the wanton manner I described.
>
>     Sure glad you caught this and kept it straight-
>
> Thanks, Regards-    Jack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 15:14:49 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hitch problems and RTV

>You would be referring to the High Strength RTV which comes in a gray color
>I believe.
>
>Tom
>

As far as I know color or strength has nothing to do with the non-corrosive 
cure version. It has to be labeled non-corrosive to not put out acetic acid.

According to my McMaster-Carr catalog they would be Dow Corning #3140, 
3145, 9-1363, and 748, GE 6700 and 162. GE high strength are 157 and 159, no 
mention of non-corrosive cure.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 16:37:30 -0500
From: "J. Anderson" <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally

Any VAC'ers planning to attend the Region 7 "Life is a bowl of cherries" 
rally in Sturgeon Bay Wisconsin this week?

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 17:32:49 -0700
From: "Richard        McFarland" <estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Mark's Mystery Tradewind in Modesto

  Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 13:59:43 -0700
  From: "Mark"
  Subject: [VAL] Link to the gilded Airstream picture...
   Here's the direct link:

  http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/875/sort/1/cat/50
0/
  page/1

  Mark in Modesto
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------


  Mark - a couple of questions about your interesting mystery 1962 Tradewind:



  You've mentioned you've owned it for 25 years and that it's a tandem axle
and it has both electric and hydraulic brakes as well as Dura-Torques.



  Is the double brake system a common set-up?  I've not heard of it to date.
Is one system the primary one and the other a back up?  Is the duplicate
system on both axles?  Since you've owned it so long - does the system appear
to be factory installed?



  Or - are you talking about an electrically "boosted" hydraulic system?



  I believe that the tandem axle installation on the 1962 Tradewinds was an
option and that tandems were not standard until a few years later?  Also - I
think in your picture it looks like you have a 5-panel roof (it's a little
hard to tell with the glare in the photo).  I think this was a time when the
switch from 7-panels to 5 was taking place.  The panel design switch did not
take place on all models at the same time - at least from what I've discovered
from when Airstream started it's earlier switch from 13 to 7 back in the
mid-50's.



  So - you've got a lot of little different details.  I would wonder if your
gold paneled trailer - being a 1962 - just about the time that we lost Wally -
"might" have been ordered/set-up to go on (and possibly lead?) another Byam
Caravan.  We've read where the tandem option was popular in the early years
for those going on Caravans to allow for a little extra suspension control and
a little leeway with flat tire situations etc.



  (if you have not read the information surrounding the 1958-59 22' World
Traveler model on RJ Dial's VintageAirstream.com photo site - it's
interesting)



  I can't remember if you've mentioned anything about your electrical system.
Are there any duplications or differences to allow for traveling overseas etc.
Are there any marks on the shell that might suggest it had been in "slings"
for loading on a freighter etc.?



  Best Wishes.  RL McFarland

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 20:06:52 -0500
From: "Bruce Coonrod" <dogpack@xxxxxxxxxx.midco.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally

Yes, John, I'm just packing and plan to leave tomorrow after work. However,
we'll be towing Trailer No. 2, not the Vintage No. 1.

Bruce Coonrod
WBCCI 15920

> Any VAC'ers planning to attend the Region 7 "Life is a bowl of cherries"
> rally in Sturgeon Bay Wisconsin this week?
>
> John
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 20:13:37 -0500
From: "Chaplain Kent-" <chaplainkent@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally

My wife and I will be there on Thursday. I have heard that the church
service on Sunday morning is going to be very special and the one thing that
everyone at the rally should plan to attend.
Chaplain Kent

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 18:51:49 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Mark's Mystery Tradewind in Modesto

Mr. McFarland,

Thank you for your interest.  I'll 'answer on' to make it more clear.

>Is the double brake system a common set-up?

I honestly don't know.  Until you brought it up, I'd assumed they ALL had dual
brakes.  It's the first and only travel trailer I've owned.  One of the life
altering decisions I made as a little kid was that one day I'd own one of
those Airstreams.  It's even remotely possible it was THIS one which inspired
my conviction...the timing would be about right.

>Is one system the primary one and the other a back up?

The trailer came with a stout cast fitting on a hose, which was to be plumbed
into the tow vehicles system, which mates with a master cylinder on the
trailer.  The two vehicles never share fluids, just an inch or so of thrust,
via a rod in the 'slave/master' to the 'master/slave.  You could say the tow
car has a slave, which connects to the trailers master, which activates the
slaves at the drums.  Whew!  I hope that made sense.

It also came with the big 7 connector plug, which includes electric brakes and
a charging circuit.

>Is the duplicate system on both axles?

Though I can't swear to it, I'm pretty sure one axle is electric, the other
hydraulic.

>does the system appear to be factory installed?

Yes...it was all in the original gold paint, same as the skirt around the
bottom of the rig, the wheels, frame, LPG tanks, regulator, etc.  All were
gold, rather than silver.

  >Or - are you talking about an electrically "boosted" hydraulic system?

Gee...I've never even had the hubcaps off and just don't know what's in there,
but I'm pretty sure it's electic on one axle, conventional hydraulic on the
other.  When I find that doggone Airstream folder, full of receipts and papers
from way back, I'll also find a few spec sheets about the various systems on
the thing.  Thanks for the reminder...I'll go look harder.  I owe Fred an
answer or two as well.

>it looks like you have a 5-panel roof

It is the five panel roof.  That glare IS a drag.

>I would wonder if yours ..."might" have been ordered/set-up to go on (and
possibly lead?) another Byam Caravan.

Me too.  That has been suggested (got me all fired up!), but apparently  no
records exist to document such.  Sigh...

I'll take a thorough look at RJ Dial's site...thanks for that!

>Are there any duplications or differences to allow for traveling overseas
etc.

Good question!  All of the light fixtures are dual voltage:  110ac & 12vdc.
No provision for 220v, though if the candlebases on 220v bulbs are the same, I
don't think the trailer would care either way.  All recepticles were standard
household type.  The fridge was NOT the original...a former owner installed a
Dometic three-way.  Also, the original heating system (ducted, according to
some of the paperwork?) was long gone, replaced with a (more than adequate)
catalytic on the half wall at the entrance.  The water heater is gas, the
stool is vitreous china, as is the bath sink, with Moen faucet.  The galley
has nice, deep stainless sinks with a one handle faucet with spray.

>Are there any marks on the shell that might suggest it had been in "slings"
for loading on a freighter etc.?

Nothing I've ever noticed would imply that it was setup for slings.

Again, thanks for your interest.  If there's anything else...


Regards,

Mark Spencer
Modesto, Ca  aka

Mark in Modesto

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 19:07:20 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] CORRECTION to:  Mark's Mystery Tradewind in Modesto

Mr. McFarland,

That was a great website.  http://vintageairstream.com/index.html .

Through it, I quickly learned that I was mistaken about my body type.  I just
looked out the window and counted the panels in the roof.  There are SEVEN to
complete the 180 degrees across the top, not five.  (I knew I should've gotten
up to look before posting.  Will I ever learn?)

Mark in Modesto, red faced again!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 21:32:12 -0400
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally

Hi John,
There will be a number of us at Region 7! There is even a VAC Open House
set up for Saturday, come and join us for a great time. Region 7 always
has a good VAC group gathered, our Region 7 VAC Rally a couple of weeks
ago had great attendance.

Thanks
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
2nd VP VAC
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler

- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of J. Anderson
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 5:38 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally


Any VAC'ers planning to attend the Region 7 "Life is a bowl of cherries"

rally in Sturgeon Bay Wisconsin this week?

John

- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text

To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 21:35:33 -0400
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally

But the question is will the readings contain the "required" topic?
Ed

- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Chaplain Kent-
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 9:14 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sturgeon Bay Rally


My wife and I will be there on Thursday. I have heard that the church
service on Sunday morning is going to be very special and the one thing
that everyone at the rally should plan to attend. Chaplain Kent

- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text

To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 23:10:28 -0400
From: "Wally" <maltnhops@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Another Vintage Airstream website

Hi all,

Ever since I got into vintage Airstreams, people have told me, "Oh, you should
do a website that shows how you restored your Airstream(s)".  Well, I finally
did it.  I'm just getting started.  The site has only been up about a month
and nobody has been there but me.  I guess that's because I haven't been ready
to "unveil" it until now.  It's far from done, and barely even ready in my
eyes.  But, if I waited until I thought it was ready, we'd all be dead.

I'm just learning this HTML stuff and I'm writing all this from scratch.  If
you like what you see, I welcome all compliments.   There are lots of pictures
and most of them are large.  Be patient.  I am working on reducing their size
and linking to larger pictures for those who would like them.   I admit, I
have "borrowed" some pictures from the web of various things that I admire.
If I have used your picture and offended you in some way, please let me know
and I will remove the picture.  Keep in mind that the picture was only used
because I'm jealous that you own whatever it is, and I don't.  I don't have
very many links on my "links" page yet.  RJ, I linked to your site, as it is
the Mecca of all vintage Airstream sites  (I hope you don't mind).

This is all just for fun.  I'm not trying to sell anything or push my opinions
on anyone.  I hope you enjoy seeing what a mess I have gotten myself into.  I
wouldn't have it any other way.

Oh, I guess if you read this far, you're actually wondering what the website
address is...
Here you go.  Enjoy!  www.vintageairstreamer.com

Wally
'66 Caravel, Percy
WBCCI #23618
New Hampshire

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #342
*************************


-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html