VAL Digest V1 #329

VAL Digest          Wednesday, August 4 2004          Volume 01 : Number 329




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] Tank vent
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #328
Re: [VAL] Tank vent
Re: [VAL] Tank vent
Re: [VAL] Tank vent
Re: [VAL] Tank vent

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 05:40:55 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tank vent

Ed,

On the 60's style trailers, they did this by using the "tank cap". The cap
had a small cut out on the inside of the cap where the threads are located.
Also the cap does not make a seal on to the top of the tank. If I can,
later today I will tank a picture of mine and send it to you off list. I
think
they used this system from about 1965-68. Its the famous aluminum cap
you hear about people loosing and not being able to find another.

Paul Waddell
66 Overlander
66 Safari


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 9:00 PM
Subject: [VAL] Tank vent


> You might slide a small (1/4" diameter) vinyl tube down the filler pipe
> just to the tank and anchor the outside end to the top side of the
> filler opening. Then you'd close it off mostly with the filler cap (but
> something HAS to vent or you won't get much water out of the tank
> either) and unless you poured the filler opening totally full, you'd have
> a vent. With the air tube in the filler pipe you could still fill the pipe
> and let the air in and out.
>
> I'd make a  spring out of stainless steel to hold the small vent pipe
> inside the top of the filler opening.
>
> Gerald J.
>
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 08:20:39 -0400
From: "J.Garrett" <j.garrett@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #328

Thanks for everyone's concerns, kind comments and words of encouragement.
Towing with a 2002 Chev Trailblazer. 275HP straight 6 engine.   I was
initially concerned there may be a lack of power, but in an old AS manual
from the 60's was a formula for power to weight ratio, which all calculated
out properly.  As it turned out I had plenty of power on hills and was quite
pleased in that respect. For the past 8 years I had been towing a 20' boat
approx. the same weight without sway bars and never had a problem which was
a factor in my poor decision this time.  If you want some aftermath pictures
for your website let me know.
John Garrett in Niagara Falls Canada
> Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 21:21:01 -0600
> From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAL] Re: Sad Wreck
>
> Oh dear I am sorry to hear this sad tale.
>
> I hope that you can get her fixed, or at least some of her organs can be
>   recycled.
>
> I am sort of collecting wreck stories, and would like to add yours, can
> you tell me what you were using for a tow vehicule ?
>
> I hope eventually to make a web page that illustrates what can happen if
> one is too casual about chosing a tow vehicule, selecting a
> hitch,adjusting the hitch and loading the rig.Or any other similar
> mistakes.  I don't want to terrify people just urge them to be
> conservative and careful.
>
> Daisy in Colorado Springs
>
> J.Garrett wrote:
>
> > In December I purchased a 1959 26' Overlander twin axle and proceeded
with the
> > usual checks and upgrades to make sure it was roadworthy and useable. In
my
> > rush to attend a vintage rally in Ontario Canada on Friday I had one
critical
> > lapse of judgement.  The ball height of the receiver and sway bars were
6"
> > higher than the 19.5" required.  This was the only thing that I had
overlooked
> > in the 7 months since working on the trailer.  My decision was to use my
> > regular receiver and forgoe the sway bars.  About an hour into the trip
and 20
> > minutes from the rally a tractor trailer put me into an unrecoverable
fishtale
> > leading to jack knife and the demise of the trailer.  Thankfully no one
was
> > injured but regrettably I've destroyed a beautiful piece of engineering
and
> > design history as well as my ego.  The new chains did their job,held and
> > probably prevented a much worse outcome.  I must say I am very impressed
at
> > how the trailer held together (though this is one way to check for
hidden
> > floor rot, it's not the one I had intended). The ultimate destination of
the
> > remains is uncertain until I speak with my inusrance company next week,
but
> > given the number of good panels and parts remaining I'd rally hate to
see it
> > go to the wreckers.  If any one is interested in the remaining whole or
parts
> > let me know, I can send photo's.  The interior has twins with curved
mahogany
> > overhead bunks.  My apologies to you all, I feel I've let a large
community
> > down, hopefully someone will learn from my stupidity.  John Garrett,
Niagara
> > Falls Canada 905 357 3437

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 08:19:18 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tank vent

Paul wrote:

>The cap had a small cut out on the inside of the cap where the threads are
located...I think they used this system from about 1965-68.

So you'll know, my '62 Tradewind has that cap too.


Mark in Modesto

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 09:25:29 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tank vent

Yes, when emptying the tank, the tank cap (including the one I've 
made as a prototype) vents alongside the threads, but that doesn't 
help when the fill pipe goes to the bottom of the tank or when filling. 
The separate vent pipe may be needed to go to the top of the 
tank. But the outer end would work well just inside the filler cap.

I have a good cap, and a spare that I've made. I found making by 
hand is more work than I can get paid for. One Airstream after 
market parts vendor promised a price but I've not seen that.

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2004 09:55:14 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tank vent

    Mark and all,

    Can you experts answer a question for me regarding that cap?  I see that
Inland is now offering one for our years (mine, a 1969) but having only seen
one original, I'm a bit confused.

    The Inland ones are knurled on the edge and I don't recall seeing that
on the original one I saw.  I'd like to get one from Inland as long as I
think I'm getting the correct appearing one.

    Can someone set me straight?

    As always, thanks in advance,

    Glyn Judson
    1969 Caravel #508
    Santa Monica CA

> From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 08:19:18 -0700
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Tank vent
> 
> Paul wrote:
> 
>> The cap had a small cut out on the inside of the cap where the threads are
> located...I think they used this system from about 1965-68.
> 
> So you'll know, my '62 Tradewind has that cap too.
> 
> 
> Mark in Modesto
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 14:35:32 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tank vent

The cap on my '68 Caravel is rough on the outside, about as cast, 
(and the vent grooves are as cast) with the threads cut. It has no 
straight surface for grabbing with hands or pipe wrench (when it 
sticks). 

When I made one to see if I could I made it out of smaller diameter 
stock and turned the excess material away, then because of the 
smaller diameter, I did a poor knurling job. I need a better knurling 
tool than what I have because this 6061T-651 turns beautifully but is as 
hard to knurl as steel.

I think the knurled exterior is a distinct improvement making the cap 
more likely to be properly tightened and then more easily removed 
when removal is needed. Better than knurling would be to start with 
hex turning stock but that's a step more expensive than round stock.

My original cap is visible in the last photo on my Caravel web page of 
my web pages at http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.coom

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

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End of VAL Digest V1 #329
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