The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #326
VAL Digest Sunday, August 1 2004 Volume 01 : Number 326
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Water tank source?
Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
[VAL] Re:Air Conditioning
[VAL] 20 amp circuits
Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
[VAL] dent
Re: [VAL] dent
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #325
Re: [VAL] dent
Re: [VAL] dent
Re: [VAL] dent
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 22:49:54 -0700
From: David Josephson <david@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Water tank source?
A few dozen miles on dirt and gravel roads, an improperly repaired leak,
and years of neglect before I adopted my 71 Tradewind all conspired to
cause the fresh water tank to leave the trailer last week. The 1-1/4"
plywood sheet under it had almost completely rotted out and, saturated
with water, was no longer able to hold it in. So the last few days of a
trip to some remote mountaintop radio sites were spent without water as
I made good on my promise and pulled it all out in preparation for
replacing it. The leak was apparently in the same place it usually is;
the corner of the tank just above where the fill tube fitting attaches.
I don't find an exact replacement for this tank on the Inca page. Any
recommendations for other sources?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 07:38:53 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
David, based on descriptions or dimensions? They can make anything but
there should be something that would work. Also try www.all-rite.com as
another OEM supplier.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind w/Inca tank
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Josephson" <david@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 1:49 AM
Subject: [VAL] Water tank source?
> A few dozen miles on dirt and gravel roads, an improperly repaired leak,
> and years of neglect before I adopted my 71 Tradewind all conspired to
> cause the fresh water tank to leave the trailer last week. The 1-1/4"
> plywood sheet under it had almost completely rotted out and, saturated
> with water, was no longer able to hold it in. So the last few days of a
> trip to some remote mountaintop radio sites were spent without water as
> I made good on my promise and pulled it all out in preparation for
> replacing it. The leak was apparently in the same place it usually is;
> the corner of the tank just above where the fill tube fitting attaches.
>
> I don't find an exact replacement for this tank on the Inca page. Any
> recommendations for other sources?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 13:52:36 +0000
From: c-l@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
- -------------- Original message --------------
> A few dozen miles on dirt and gravel roads, an improperly repaired leak,
> and years of neglect before I adopted my 71 Tradewind all conspired to
> cause the fresh water tank to leave the trailer last week. The 1-1/4"
> plywood sheet under it had almost completely rotted out and, saturated
> with water, was no longer able to hold it in. So the last few days of a
> trip to some remote mountaintop radio sites were spent without water as
> I made good on my promise and pulled it all out in preparation for
> replacing it. The leak was apparently in the same place it usually is;
> the corner of the tank just above where the fill tube fitting attaches.
>
> I don't find an exact replacement for this tank on the Inca page. Any
> recommendations for other sources?
>David, Try RV Parts Outlet.
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 13:54:00 +0000
From: c-l@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
Try RV Parts Outlet in Oregon.
Chuck
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 11:00:05 EDT
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:Air Conditioning
In a message dated 7/30/2004 10:02:00 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
You are correct in assumption that your ordinary 20 AMP
household outlet isn't providing enough power to adequately
address the needs of your air conditioning unit - -
especially if it is the original Armstrong Bay Breeze. I
learned my lesson the hard way - - burned out the compressor
on my '64 Overlander's Bay Breeze trying to operate it on a
dedicated 20 AMP outlet in the garage. If you wish to use
your air conditioner while parked at home, a properly
installed 30 AMP circuit with the appropriate outlet is
cheap insurance for your air conditioner's health. I just
had a 30 AMP outlet installed at the house that I am moving
into in August, and the total installed cost was less than
$125.00.
Good luck with your Soveriegn!
Kevin
In my experience with the 70s Armstrong units is> the 20 amp circuit wasn't
the issue but the gauge of the wire carrying it! Should be 12 or 10 gauge.
There's a lot of houses out there with 20 amp fuses and 14 gauge wiring. Not
code now but was OK not long ago! By going 30 amp and 10 gauge...you'd be FINE
for power!
ALOT of campgrounds don't have enough juice and many folks carry around
meters to test and make sure they are getting 115 to 120 volts
anything less is hard on the older units! THE original owners manual even
visits that issue!
Right now in my yard I have about 50' of 10gauge running to a 30 amp plug
with a 20 amp breaker and my 78 Armstrong purzz like a kitten.
They all like to rattle and roll on start up! (I've had 3 of em) 79, 74, 78
but they last!
that's ~MY 2 CENTS!
Alan T
Phx AZ
78 Arg30
93 Dodge Diesel
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 09:23:48 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] 20 amp circuits
For sure the gauge of the wire and the extension cord is critical for
operating the A/C. Undersized extension cords have been so
prevalent the NEC doesn't allow them to be used except
temporarily.
While in houses with edison based fuses, sticking 20 amp fuses on
circuits with 14 gauge wire, I don't believe in my collection of
National Electrical Codes that I have even seen that 14 gauge
wire has been rated at 20 amps. In the most recent codes, current
ratings based in insulation temperature rating would allow 20 amps
in 14 gauge wire with 90 degree C insulation, but the code
specifically says, 14 gauge copper is limited to 15 amps rating.
Edison based fuses being interchangeable easily allow excess fuse
rating, which can lead to overheated wires and sometimes ignition
of things adjacent to that wiring. Or to excessive voltage drop
and sometimes motor damage.
The typical induction motor as used in an A/C compressor
demands 5 to 6 times the running current while starting. This makes
voltage regulation (large enough and short enough conductors)
critical, or it may never get up to speed. Worse the alternating
current motor's speed is controlled by the frequency, not so much
the applied voltage, while the shaft mechanical load is set by the
shaft speed, so the motor with low voltage applied has to draw
more current to develop the horsepower the shaft load demands.
Unless designed for such low voltage operation that can fry the
motor windings.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 08:46:19 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
David,
Try going to the http://www.ronco-plastics.com catalog to see if they
have a stock tank that might work for you. If not, they can make a tank of
any design for you.
I've had them make several tanks for me over the years and can attest to
their quality and customer friendliness. You can have the fittings spun
into the tanks at any location and of any thread size. These are rotomolded
tanks made from polyethylene and use fittings of the same material. They
drill holes according to your direction and spin the fittings in, using a
hand drill and mandrel, effectively melting the two together creating a weld
that joins them into one leak-free piece.
I might also add that the prices shown in their catalog are twice what
they'll quote you on the phone or if you visit them in person as I have. I
was fascinated to watch the tank being made and then watch the fellow
install the fittings according to my need. A tank takes 16 minutes to make
from beginning to completion and is the neatest thing you ever want to see
made.
Additionally, all the fittings are included in the quoted price (half of
the catalog price) including a 3" O-ring sealed, threaded cap, inspection
plate, but you have to ask for that one.
I have no economic interest in Ronco nor do I work for them. I have
simply done business with them and have sent many friends their way.
In the case of one of my tanks, I transacted the entire deal by
telephone fax and credit card, getting the tank by mail on my doorstep
within 4-5 days.
I hope this helps,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Josephson" <david@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 1:49 AM
> Subject: [VAL] Water tank source?
>
>
>> A few dozen miles on dirt and gravel roads, an improperly repaired leak,
>> and years of neglect before I adopted my 71 Tradewind all conspired to
>> cause the fresh water tank to leave the trailer last week. The 1-1/4"
>> plywood sheet under it had almost completely rotted out and, saturated
>> with water, was no longer able to hold it in. So the last few days of a
>> trip to some remote mountaintop radio sites were spent without water as
>> I made good on my promise and pulled it all out in preparation for
>> replacing it. The leak was apparently in the same place it usually is;
>> the corner of the tank just above where the fill tube fitting attaches.
>>
>> I don't find an exact replacement for this tank on the Inca page. Any
>> recommendations for other sources?
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 09:02:54 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
David and all,
I forgot a couple of things in that last post.
These are high quality tanks, very thick walled and sturdy.
Ronco has been around for a long time and were/are the OEM maker of
tanks for many SoCal boat makers. It's even possible that they might have
made tanks for our Airstreams. I don't know that to be a certainty but am
just hazarding a guess given their proximity to where the California
Airstreams were made.
Does anyone know if Ronco was OEM for SoCal Airstreams?
Glyn
> From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 08:46:19 -0700
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Water tank source?
>
> David,
>
> Try going to the http://www.ronco-plastics.com catalog to see if they
> have a stock tank that might work for you. If not, they can make a tank of
> any design for you.
>
> I've had them make several tanks for me over the years and can attest to
> their quality and customer friendliness. You can have the fittings spun
> into the tanks at any location and of any thread size. These are rotomolded
> tanks made from polyethylene and use fittings of the same material. They
> drill holes according to your direction and spin the fittings in, using a
> hand drill and mandrel, effectively melting the two together creating a weld
> that joins them into one leak-free piece.
>
> I might also add that the prices shown in their catalog are twice what
> they'll quote you on the phone or if you visit them in person as I have. I
> was fascinated to watch the tank being made and then watch the fellow
> install the fittings according to my need. A tank takes 16 minutes to make
> from beginning to completion and is the neatest thing you ever want to see
> made.
>
> Additionally, all the fittings are included in the quoted price (half of
> the catalog price) including a 3" O-ring sealed, threaded cap, inspection
> plate, but you have to ask for that one.
>
> I have no economic interest in Ronco nor do I work for them. I have
> simply done business with them and have sent many friends their way.
>
> In the case of one of my tanks, I transacted the entire deal by
> telephone fax and credit card, getting the tank by mail on my doorstep
> within 4-5 days.
>
> I hope this helps,
>
> Glyn Judson
> 1969 Caravel #508
> Santa Monica CA
>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "David Josephson" <david@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 1:49 AM
>> Subject: [VAL] Water tank source?
>>
>>
>>> A few dozen miles on dirt and gravel roads, an improperly repaired leak,
>>> and years of neglect before I adopted my 71 Tradewind all conspired to
>>> cause the fresh water tank to leave the trailer last week. The 1-1/4"
>>> plywood sheet under it had almost completely rotted out and, saturated
>>> with water, was no longer able to hold it in. So the last few days of a
>>> trip to some remote mountaintop radio sites were spent without water as
>>> I made good on my promise and pulled it all out in preparation for
>>> replacing it. The leak was apparently in the same place it usually is;
>>> the corner of the tank just above where the fill tube fitting attaches.
>>>
>>> I don't find an exact replacement for this tank on the Inca page. Any
>>> recommendations for other sources?
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 12:43:35 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] dent
Hello everyone: I have been contemplating attacking the dent on the roadside
rear of my 1969 Tradewind. It is about 10 inches by 10 inches and happened
when I backed into a tree limb that scraped across the trailer and punched it
in. I have seen others try to "pull" out the metal from the outside without
much success. I can access the inside by drilling a hole in the fiberglass that
can later be repaired but my question is what will I find on the inside?
Is there a description somewhere of what's beneath the fiberglass?
Insulation, I beams etc.
Before I drill, I thought I'd ask.....always learning!
Thanks for any ideas.
Tom Fairbank
1969 Tradewind
1998 Expedition
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 12:08:28 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] dent
Tom,
Assuming you are talking about a dent in one of the end segments the following holds
true.
The space between the skin and the plastic interior was filled with 2" pink
fiberglass insulation which may or may not have settled.
The structural support for the ends consists of the last or main rib at the side
sheet and segment joint and two horizontal bows that run from side sheet to side
sheet at the top and bottom of the window.
The rivet lines at the segment joints attach only to themselves.
The electrical wiring comes in to the bathroom at the top center and drops down
inside the wall space to it's respective fixture/fitting. By taking care to only
drill the depth of the plastic shell one can avoid cutting wires.
Be aware also that the plastic shell is by this time quite brittle with age and
prone to cracking.
Hope this helps,
Charlie
Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Hello everyone: I have been contemplating attacking the dent on the roadside
> rear of my 1969 Tradewind. It is about 10 inches by 10 inches and happened
> when I backed into a tree limb that scraped across the trailer and punched it
> in. I have seen others try to "pull" out the metal from the outside without
> much success. I can access the inside by drilling a hole in the fiberglass that
> can later be repaired but my question is what will I find on the inside?
> Is there a description somewhere of what's beneath the fiberglass?
> Insulation, I beams etc.
> Before I drill, I thought I'd ask.....always learning!
>
> Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Tom Fairbank
> 1969 Tradewind
> 1998 Expedition
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 13:38:31 -0500
From: "Teresa Gardner" <meadowtree@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #325
> [Original Message]
> From: <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com (VAL Digest)>
> To: <valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Date: 7/31/2004 12:00:02 AM
> Subject: VAL Digest V1 #325
>
>
> VAL Digest Saturday, July 31 2004 Volume 01 : Number
325
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> Topics in Today's Digest:
>
> [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
> Re: [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
> Re: [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
> Re: [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
> [VAL] Rocky MtVintage Rally
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 08:26:46 -0700
> From: "Aaron Bratrude" <abratrud@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
>
> Hello all,
>
> My '76 31' Rear Bath Sovereign was purchased 8 months ago and luckily
> for me all original and all in working condition... piece of cake right?
> I now know why vintage airstream owners become life-long addicts... a
> burst copper fitting behind the tub, and a handful of other issues. The
> one I am most interested in addressing is the AC. I have run the unit
> before no problem. Now the air conditioner (after verifying all settings
> are appropriate) begins to fire up, only to quickly shut down. While
> it's firing up, it's noisy, lot of vibration - the feel of true
> Airstream power. But then just shuts down. Fan works, heat works, etc...
> as soon as the AC tries to start, it quickly shuts down. I am trying to
> run it on normal 110v/20amp power - is that not enough juice?
>
> I need the help of those that are more experienced before I do something
> stupid. Thanks.
>
> <http://msevents.microsoft.com/CUI/EventDetail.aspx?EventID=1032252343&C
> ulture=en-US>
>
> Aaron Bratrude
>
> Microsoft Corporation *
> Territory Manager
> * Phone 800.426.9400 x11594
> * Fax 425.706.7329
> ** Mobile 206.669.5967
> * E-mail abratrud@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> ** Local Events http://www.microsoft.com/usa/midwest
>
> Feedback
> Creating a positive customer experience is our top priority. We welcome
> your comments and suggestions about how we can improve the support we
> provide to you. You can share your experience with my manager, Carl
> Little, by e-mailing him directly at carllitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com Thank you.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 15:07:52 -0400
> From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
>
> Wouldn't the unit act this way also if there is low Freon? Maybe this is
a
> safety feature kicking in to protect the unit? Maybe it's an electrical
> problem -- the unit is not getting enough power to *safely* keep from self
> destructing?
>
> I'd get the HVAC people to look over your unit before I do something
> "stupid". Asking for help is not "stupid", but acting on what you think
may
> be the problem when you are not an expert in the field might be. So, just
> don't do that. ;)
>
> Tom
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Bratrude" <abratrud@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 30, 2004 11:26 AM
> Subject: [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
>
>
> > Hello all,
> >
> > My '76 31' Rear Bath Sovereign was purchased 8 months ago and luckily
> > for me all original and all in working condition... piece of cake right?
> > I now know why vintage airstream owners become life-long addicts... a
> > burst copper fitting behind the tub, and a handful of other issues. The
> > one I am most interested in addressing is the AC. I have run the unit
> > before no problem. Now the air conditioner (after verifying all settings
> > are appropriate) begins to fire up, only to quickly shut down. While
> > it's firing up, it's noisy, lot of vibration - the feel of true
> > Airstream power. But then just shuts down. Fan works, heat works, etc...
> > as soon as the AC tries to start, it quickly shuts down. I am trying to
> > run it on normal 110v/20amp power - is that not enough juice?
> >
> > I need the help of those that are more experienced before I do something
> > stupid. Thanks.
> >
> > <http://msevents.microsoft.com/CUI/EventDetail.aspx?EventID=1032252343&C
> > ulture=en-US>
> >
> > Aaron Bratrude
> >
> > Microsoft Corporation *
> > Territory Manager
> > * Phone 800.426.9400 x11594
> > * Fax 425.706.7329
> > ** Mobile 206.669.5967
> > * E-mail abratrud@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > ** Local Events http://www.microsoft.com/usa/midwest
> >
> > Feedback
> > Creating a positive customer experience is our top priority. We welcome
> > your comments and suggestions about how we can improve the support we
> > provide to you. You can share your experience with my manager, Carl
> > Little, by e-mailing him directly at carllitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com Thank you.
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 15:09:40 -0400
> From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
>
> Also,
>
> You can not plug this unit into your house power and expect it to work
> UNLESS you make sure it IS getting the amperage it needs to fire up.
>
> A/C units need MORE power to start than they do to keep running.
>
> How are you hooking up this unit to power ? ? ? ?
>
> Tom
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Bratrude" <abratrud@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 30, 2004 11:26 AM
> Subject: [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
>
>
> > Hello all,
> >
> > My '76 31' Rear Bath Sovereign was purchased 8 months ago and luckily
> > for me all original and all in working condition... piece of cake right?
> > I now know why vintage airstream owners become life-long addicts... a
> > burst copper fitting behind the tub, and a handful of other issues. The
> > one I am most interested in addressing is the AC. I have run the unit
> > before no problem. Now the air conditioner (after verifying all settings
> > are appropriate) begins to fire up, only to quickly shut down. While
> > it's firing up, it's noisy, lot of vibration - the feel of true
> > Airstream power. But then just shuts down. Fan works, heat works, etc...
> > as soon as the AC tries to start, it quickly shuts down. I am trying to
> > run it on normal 110v/20amp power - is that not enough juice?
> >
> > I need the help of those that are more experienced before I do something
> > stupid. Thanks.
> >
> > <http://msevents.microsoft.com/CUI/EventDetail.aspx?EventID=1032252343&C
> > ulture=en-US>
> >
> > Aaron Bratrude
> >
> > Microsoft Corporation *
> > Territory Manager
> > * Phone 800.426.9400 x11594
> > * Fax 425.706.7329
> > ** Mobile 206.669.5967
> > * E-mail abratrud@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > ** Local Events http://www.microsoft.com/usa/midwest
> >
> > Feedback
> > Creating a positive customer experience is our top priority. We welcome
> > your comments and suggestions about how we can improve the support we
> > provide to you. You can share your experience with my manager, Carl
> > Little, by e-mailing him directly at carllitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com Thank you.
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 15:32:00 -0500
> From: overlander64 <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] FW: Air Conditioning
>
> Greetings Aaron!
>
> You are correct in assumption that your ordinary 20 AMP
> household outlet isn't providing enough power to adequately
> address the needs of your air conditioning unit - -
> especially if it is the original Armstrong Bay Breeze. I
> learned my lesson the hard way - - burned out the compressor
> on my '64 Overlander's Bay Breeze trying to operate it on a
> dedicated 20 AMP outlet in the garage. If you wish to use
> your air conditioner while parked at home, a properly
> installed 30 AMP circuit with the appropriate outlet is
> cheap insurance for your air conditioner's health. I just
> had a 30 AMP outlet installed at the house that I am moving
> into in August, and the total installed cost was less than
> $125.00.
>
> Good luck with your Soveriegn!
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin D. Allen
> WBCCI/VAC/Free Wheelers/Computer Club #6359
> 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400
> VORTEC/4.10 Differentials)
> 1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado
> Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
>
>
> > Hello all,
> >
> > My '76 31' Rear Bath Sovereign was purchased 8 months ago
> > and luckily for me all original and all in working
> > condition... piece of cake right? I now know why vintage
> > airstream owners become life-long addicts... a burst
> > copper fitting behind the tub, and a handful of other
> > issues. The one I am most interested in addressing is the
> > AC. I have run the unit before no problem. Now the air
> > conditioner (after verifying all settings are appropriate)
> > begins to fire up, only to quickly shut down. While it's
> > firing up, it's noisy, lot of vibration - the feel of true
> > Airstream power. But then just shuts down. Fan works, heat
> > works, etc... as soon as the AC tries to start, it quickly
> > shuts down. I am trying to run it on normal 110v/20amp
> > power - is that not enough juice?
> >
> > I need the help of those that are more experienced before
> > I do something stupid. Thanks.
> >
> > <http://msevents.microsoft.com/CUI/EventDetail.aspx?EventI
> > D=1032252343&C ulture=en-US>
> >
> > Aaron Bratrude
> >
> > Microsoft Corporation *
> > Territory Manager
> > * Phone 800.426.9400 x11594
> > * Fax 425.706.7329
> > ** Mobile 206.669.5967
> > * E-mail abratrud@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > ** Local Events http://www.microsoft.com/usa/midwest
> >
> > Feedback
> > Creating a positive customer experience is our top
> > priority. We welcome your comments and suggestions about
> > how we can improve the support we provide to you. You can
> > share your experience with my manager, Carl Little, by
> > e-mailing him directly at carllitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com Thank
> > you.
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > ------- When replying to a message. please delete all
> > unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 21:10:47 -0600
> From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAL] Rocky MtVintage Rally
>
> Wow neat-o and I get to see the great computer god Tom Patterson and his
> lively wife Marylin in person and The great historian Fred Coldwell and
> our man in the west Randy Unter and scores of others.
>
> There are 70 vintage trailers here ! I'll do high lights later.
>
> Just so's ya know, if you can possible come to this rally, you really
> ought to. Shari Davis is the tops when it comes to organizing a rally.
>
> And I thought you should know, that as I was taking the empties out of
> their bin, there, tangled up with plastic bags was....my Lansing Rally
> ticket....it must have been hitting the sauce....
>
> Daisy, in Colorado Springs
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of VAL Digest V1 #325
> *************************
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 12:24:13 -0700
From: "Mark" <mark@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] dent
Charlie wrote:
>Be aware also that the plastic shell is by this time quite brittle with age
and
prone to cracking.
To which I add:
Do you very best to avoid square corners in your cutout. Make 'em all as
rounded as is practical, so stress cracks won't be encouraged to form and
grow. After cutting, smooth any rough edges for the very same reason.
Hope this helps too,
Mark in Modesto
'62 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 16:38:26 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] dent
Charllie: That helps alot, if I can get a rounded punch tool into this area,
then I am only dealing with the 2 inches of fiberglass and can hopefully punch
out the dent from the inside.
Tom
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 16:40:45 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] dent
Mark: Thanks, I will be very careful getting through the bathroom plastic.
Tom
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #326
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