The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #321
VAL Digest Tuesday, July 27 2004 Volume 01 : Number 321
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Building your own generator - not so expensive after all
[VAL] (no subject)
Re: [VAL] Building your own generator - not so expensive after all
Re: [VAL] Building your own generator - not so expensive after all
Re: [VAL] It's Zip Dee time
Re: [VAL] Re: Oven adjustment
[VAL] Braund TV Antenna...(Super Skymaster)
[VAL] Tire Pressure Monitoring...
[VAL] Fw: Caulking
Re: [VAL] Fw: Caulking
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 01:09:03 -0400
From: "Tom" <thomm@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Building your own generator - not so expensive after all
This is what I've found so far about building your own power generator for a
travel trailer like our Airstreams. This could be done quite simply -- I
think -- at this point in time. It is an interesting thought process none
the less and maybe one of us will actually "do it" as the Nike commercial
says. ;)
I would need:
5000W peak, 4000W continuous generator head - $389.99
8 Horse power engine - Tecumseh Engine - Cast Iron Sleeve - 8 HP - $279.99 -
for the same HP but with a Honda engine with gear reduction instead $754.99
Direct drive shaft coupler assembly 7/8" $11.95
(use with 5,000W generator head)
Frame and sound proofed cover with fans if air-cooled
Inductive Tachometer to measure the engine RPM
For around $682.00 - $1157.00 plus the cost of the inductive tachometer, a
welded frame, material for a secure locking box/cover and some other small
electronics such as an electric fan or two for cooling this 5,000W generator
could be built.
Considering the fact that this amount of power would run all the things
aboard the Airstream I think it is certainly doable. On the low end you'd
have a Tecumseh engine and on the high end you'd have a Honda and we all
know how dependable those engines are by now.
If you went with a diesel engine the cost would go up but I doubt if it
would be over the higher end cost of $1200.00 but I could be wrong. I still
have to look into the cost of the small diesel engines.
If you went with a 9 HP engine you could go with a bit larger generator
head. In fact, it doesn't cost much more to go up to KW or even more doing
it "this way" - buying the parts and assembling it yourself.
Since our tow vehicle is a Power Stroke diesel engine I'd be inclined to at
least check out the small diesel engines so they could both sip from the
same tank. I'd also be inclined to go with a small water-cooled diesel
engine if I built this system for myself.
Typical Gas engines rate their horse power at 3600 RPM. A diesel engine
could be run at half that speed or 1800 RPM due to it's torque rating.
Running a diesel at half the speed of a gas engine would probably last the
life of the trailer if you took great care of it and did all the maintenance
required when or before it needed it.
If the motor is used at speeds below that rating, the engine does not
develop full rated output torque and horse power. However, running an engine
at a lower RPM increases fuel efficiency and decreases wear and tear so
there are always trade offs.
You should also note that these small engines output shaft rotates in
counter clock wise direction as viewed from the output shaft side of the
motor. Because most engines are rated at 3600 RPMs, you will note that many
generator heads are also designed to be rotated at 3600 RPM.
If you attempt to run the AC generator head a speeds below the rated RPM of
3600 in this case, the AC output voltage will not be 120 volts, but will be
a lower value. Some equipment you intend to power may be more forgiving
about the lower voltage, some equipment might be damaged, so it is critical
that you spin the generator at the correct RPM.
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 08:16:07 EDT
From: Annj949@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] (no subject)
I just had my aluminum tanks retested at LP Cylinder Service Inc. In Shohola
Pa. The gas companies up here do not on how to read very well or all the way
throw the laws.
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 05:29:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Birdsong <tbirddog7@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Building your own generator - not so expensive after all
Tom : I don't know if this is true or not.But somewhere one time I talked to some people
form over seas some place and found out that a gas engine will run on diesel.what they
said is start the engine on gas and then phase it over to diesel.How this is to be
accomplished I've no idea. Nor do I know if it will work as I have not tried to do so.But
the idea is intriguing anyway. Later ,TommyB.
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 09:21:47 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Building your own generator - not so expensive after all
Starting on gasoline then running on a distillate (poor cousin of
diesel fuel) was a standard feature of farm tractors in the US in
the 1930s, possibly before. The distillate fuel was essentially left
overs from the refineries (before catalytic cracking) and a lot
cheaper than gasoline from the era.
Besides two fuel tanks, tractors of that era ran fairly low
compression, and heated intake manifolds. The hot manifolds
were required to vaporize the distillate fuel. That's why they
started on gasoline then switched. The cold manifold wouldn't
get enough of the distillate fuel vaporized to make a
combustible mixture in the cylinders.
I suspect the tractor burning distillate showed quite a black
smoke plume and smelled like the distillate all the time, not
necessarily characteristics that would endear one in a
campground these days. They were advantageous in their time
primarily because the distillate fuel was much cheaper than
gasoline and slightly because it had greater energy content
than gasoline. I've seen formulae for recreating distillate for
vintage tractors, but some report using diesel fuel with some
success.
Modern engine manifolds tend to not heat the intake manifold
because that heat interferes with keeping a proper gasoline to
air ratio and with good efficient running on gasoline. At least no
heat to the extent needed for burning distillate.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical
engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 08:45:11 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] It's Zip Dee time
All,
Thanks for all the helpful information about the Zip Dee awning. That's
the next item on my list to get. I'd like to hold out for be able to get a
previously loved one but it's nice to know that Jim at Zip Dee can make up a
new one for me using authentic parts of the period.
Thanks again to everybody who chimed in with their helpful emails.
Glyn
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 08:53:56 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Oven adjustment
Gerald,
Again thanks for the link to your web site and the oven adjustment
instructions. I'll probably tinker with mine this afternoon in hopes of
getting her running on my own.
Glyn
> From: "Dr. Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2004 14:05:15 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re: Oven adjustment
>
> I found a card on adjusting the oven in my '68 Caravel in the
> trailer. I've scanned it and added it to my web page
> http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com Look to the bottom of the
> Airstream page. There's a link at the top. The pictures will load
> slowly, I need to redesign the page someday.
>
> I see two pilots and at least one filter. The filter could be stuffed
> up.
>
> The regulator at the tanks is also suspect, and needs to be
> replaced if its vintage. Old regulators are fires waiting to
> happen. So much so that LP sellers around here won't deliver to
> a house with old regulators. Old flexible hoses aren't any more
> trustworthy, nor or new ones until tested under pressure with a
> soap solution to be sure they weren't made leaky.
>
> I also have the parts list for the '68 Caravel's refrigerator and a
> sheet on using the Hydro-flame heater. They are still in the trailer
> and haven't been scanned.
>
> Gerald J.
>
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical
> engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:29:10 -0500
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Braund TV Antenna...(Super Skymaster)
HI All:
One of the things that shot craps on the last trip was the crank up
mechanism in the Braund TV antenna....
I have seen a spare set of gears somewhere in the trailer, but where...
After striking out on the Internet, I fell back to the telephone and
located a number for Barker and Burr Engineering which apparently is the
new Braund among other things...
Gear set is about $7.00 and shipping is about the same... dly in 4-5 days
telco.. 1-269-965-2371
Jim
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:32:25 -0500
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Tire Pressure Monitoring...
Hi again:
I have received some notification that the Pressure Pro series of tire
pressure monitors are ready for ordering and shipment as the orders are
received...
Has anyone been working with the Beta test versions of the system?? I
would like to hear something from one of the testers before ordering if
possible...
Thanks in advance for any comments you might like to share....
Jim
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:34:05 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <pattersontom@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Fw: Caulking
Sue Murphy of Iowa Boys (who is a member of this list too) posted the
following message on the Vintage Trailers e-mail list, and I thought that her
comments might be of interest to those on this list too. So, here it is, with
her permission.....
- -Tom
_________________________________________________________
> Any ideas on what a guy should put on the roof of there trailer to
> prevent leakage other then having to re-sheet metal it? When i
> bought it gentelman said didnt leak but better to be safe then
> sorry!!!! Thanks
First let me say, DON'T USE SILICONE! We see so many trailers that the
owner has tried to solve a leak problem with silicone and it is just a
big mess. If you feel the need to use something like a caulking use an
acrylic caulk but don't use silicone.
We usually recommend that you seal only the seams and not the entire
roof. The reason for this is that when the coating gets old and starts
to crack and dry up (which they all do) and then a leak shows up it
can be very difficult to find where the water is getting under the
coating to get in. If you take your time and mask off about 2" on
either side of a seam then lay in a layer of coating, once you remove
the tape you have a clean edge and not something that looks sloppy. By
doing this if a leak shows up it is much easier to determine where it
is coming in, you use less coating and if you ever need to remove it
there is far less to deal with. If there is a gap of more than 1/4" it
is advised to use a mesh tape to lay in a base coat of the coating to
give it something to bridge the gap and then lay on another layer of
coating to seal it all up.
Coating is available in either white or silver, fibered or
non-fibered. We usually use the fibered. You need to make sure
whatever you use is for use on aluminum. Please don't ever use the
black stuff. Buy some cheap throw-away brushes and don't even try to
clean them when done.
For roof vents and plumbing vents the best thing is to remove and
thoroughly clean up the roof surface and the flange of the vent and
then reinstall with new putty tape as was done originally. In many
cases this will solve the leak and you will not need to apply the roof
coating there.
Along the meeting of the side walls to the roof and ends if you have a
leak there you will need to remove the edge molding, clean it all up
and then reinstall again with putty tape as was done originally. If
the leak there was bad you probably have some wood rot and that should
be repaired before you put it all back together.
If you have a leak around a window, remove the window, clean it all up
along with the edge of the opening and reinstall with putty tape.
Inspect your roof at least once a year and more frequently if you go
on a lot of rough roads that put more stress on the body of the
trailer. You want to make sure that the coating is not compromised by
the flex that can happen on a rough road.
Sue Murphy
Iowa Boys
North Hollywood, CA
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 23:26:24 EDT
From: JAuman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Fw: Caulking
If you are talking about an Airstream you can get good caulking (the same
that Airstream uses) from www.Airstreamdreams.com. A lot of time the awning rail
is the cause of many leaks. They move somewhat as you travel and soon leaks
start. In fact the caulking is made by Tremco in Solon, Ohio. They have a
website and you might find a dealer near you to purchase it locally. Its Vulkem 636.
Good stuff. I just used it to seal around the windows and awning rails on my
88 25' trailer. jauman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
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End of VAL Digest V1 #321
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