The Vintage Airstream E-mail List

Digest Archive Files


VAL Digest V1 #291



VAL Digest            Sunday, June 27 2004            Volume 01 : Number 291




-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] free Airstream
[VAL] Walker type dolly
Re: [VAL] Walker type dolly
RE: [VAL] Walker type dolly
[VAL] Overlander Hitch Height
Re: [VAL] Overlander Hitch Height
[VAL] spring bar brackets
Re: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued .  .  .
Re: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued .  .  .
Re: [VAL] WBCCI registration

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 06:44:28 -0600
From: "JP Polly" <jppolly@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] free Airstream

I got a phone call from a man in my town who has an Airstream to give away.
I have not seen it yet, he gave me some numbers and a description on the
phone. He was going to hire someone to cut it up and haul it away until
someone gave him my name as the "Airstream Lady" (I have three in my yard)
Here's what he told me.  It has been been used as a playhouse in the past,
has had the wheels removed and a cement pad poured in front as a porch.  It
has been painted red to match the house and barn where it resides.  It has
been used only by mice for years but the floor appears to be sound from
what he can tell so far.  He thinks it is one of the smaller models.  Here
are the numbers from the plate by the door as he gave them to me on the
phone. M-4  then S-06132512 he also found these 26TS and A4188 on the
plates. I can't remember how to decipher the number code.  You can contact
me jppolly@xxxxxxxxxx.net for more information if you are interested in this
project.
Polly in CO

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 12:03:25 EDT
From: STUTHE9@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Walker type dolly

HI List,  I, Jim Stutheit, am a new member and I have a 1972 31ft A/S.   In 
Vaclist Digest V3#112  Scott Scheuermann talked about a "walker' type trailer 
dolly.  I would like very much more information about the dolly:  where to buy 
one or plans to build one or even a picture of one.  If any one on the list 
can help with information I would appreciate it.   My E-mail address is 
Stuthe9@xxxxxxxxxx.com  Thanks, Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 09:56:36 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Walker type dolly

Several types of those dollies are advertised in the back section of Trailer
Life.  Pick up and copy and check them out.

Roger

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 12:14:56 -0500
From: "Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.isunet.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Walker type dolly

Trailer tongue dollys are handy on perfectly level ground, but the thousands of pounds 
of a trailer can overwhelm you if there's any slope at all. And there's no brakes to 
regain control.

Tests I've made indicate a man can push or pull about 100 pounds thrust. A 3000 pound 
trailer on a 1% slope pulls 300 pounds going down the slope.

Gerald J.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 14:33:41 EDT
From: SHMossLanding@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Overlander Hitch Height

Just bought a different tow vehicle, a 4 wheel drive GMC.  It seems to have 
raised the hitch so the trailer is out of level.  Can anyone tell me the proper 
height of the hitch ball. or how I go about finding the proper hright?

             
                                           Thanks,
                                           Chuck & Lynn

1965 Overlander
1947 Spartan
1952 Boles Aero
1960 Tradewind

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 11:50:07 -0700
From: William Kerfoot <wkerfoot@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Overlander Hitch Height

Chuck & Lynn,

Go here, it a list of weight, GVW, hitch height etc:
http://www.airstream.com/airstream/product_line/customer_service/docs/weights-1.pdf

Bill Kerfoot
WBCCI/VAC #5223
1979 23' Safari
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon
1977 Lincoln Continental
Orange, CA

SHMossLanding@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

>Just bought a different tow vehicle, a 4 wheel drive GMC.  It seems to have 
>raised the hitch so the trailer is out of level.  Can anyone tell me the proper 
>height of the hitch ball. or how I go about finding the proper hright?
>
>             
>                                           Thanks,
>                                           Chuck & Lynn
>
>1965 Overlander
>1947 Spartan
>1952 Boles Aero
>1960 Tradewind
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 09:28:35 -0600
From: "phelock" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] spring bar brackets

Hello,

I need you all help in solving a problem with my spring bar bracket.

When I make a sharp, ascending right turn, the road side bracket is bent
outward????  I have had no problem with the curb side bracket.

I have a 6 degree rearward lean on the hitch ball and 5 links on the spring
bar chain.

Thanks

Curtis

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 21:35:28 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued .  .  .

Yep, it's is a nasty rear bath model, but I'm in a quandary as to if it is a
'73.  The floor is one in the rear and I seed the black water  holding tank.
However I also see a line joining the black line that may be a gray water
tank under the tub.  Couldn't see enough to be sure as I was a bit
disappointed that I place a bid and there are things that weren't mentioned
in the auction.  The damage on the curb rear seems to be fresh. :(  The
gaucho in the front is missing and that's another negative.  The battery was
toast and I couldn't check the appliances and there wasn't an electric line
available to verify.

Being much disappointed, I'm locked into a unit that's in pretty bad
condition that I'll need to put a lot of work into to ever get it on the
road.

Certainly, the holding tanks don't look like the '76.  Most likely, I'm
stuck with this unit as I'll honor my bid, but it's taught me a serious
lesson about the description a seller posts and the pictures.  I thought I
was a little wise, but now, I think I"I'm a bird in the bush!

Didn't get any answers about the frame, but from what I can see, the frame
is 5 inches.

Thanks  for you response and possibly you can give me more information.

                                                 Regards, '69 Safari, Joy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 21:38:19 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued .  .  .

Hi Bobby and Jim

Hopefully I wont' win the auctions, but .  .  .

I'll keep the Great stuff spray in mind,

                                            Regards, Joy T Brew

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 08:11:56 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI registration

Thanks to all for advice and sympathy. I called Hunter and whined and 
she went to registration and they issued me a duplicate. They had a 
laptop right there. Besides, no one would dare give Hunter a hard time !

So I'm all set, sitting at the old Lansing Outlet Mall with a flock of 
silver friends .

Daisy

ThreePeaksRanch wrote:

> Daisy;
>  
> Just head over to the registration table and let them know you accidentally 
forgot your info. Hate to say it, but they might very well try and make it a 
miserable experience....it's very "small" thinking sometimes....even though you 
have registered and I'm SURE it's happened to many folks before. Good luck....cya 
soon~
> 
> VAL Digest <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> 
> VAL Digest Friday, June 25 2004 Volume 01 : Number 289
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> Topics in Today's Digest:
> 
> [VAL] Incredibley stupid mistake
> Re: [VAL] Incredibley stupid mistake
> [VAL] Re: Awning
> [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #288
> Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #288
> [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued . . .
> RE: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued . . .
> RE: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued . . .
> Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #288
> Re: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued . . .
> Re: [VAL] Re: Door Hinge Question
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2004 19:05:58 -0400
> From: Daisy Welch 
> Subject: [VAL] Incredibley stupid mistake
> 
> I am in Geneva NY, left MA this morning.
> 
> I can't find my entry ticket.
> 
> What should I do ?
> 
> Daisy
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 08:41:43 -0400
> From: "Scott Scheuermann" 
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Incredibley stupid mistake
> 
> Good question Daisy!
> 
> I'm sure that you are not the first one that this has happened to. Continue
> on to Lansing and don't worry about it, just expect a hard time at the
> registration table!
> 
> Scott
> 
> - ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Daisy Welch" 
> To: "VAL list" ; 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 7:05 PM
> Subject: [VAL] Incredibley stupid mistake
> 
> 
> 
>>I am in Geneva NY, left MA this morning.
>>
>>I can't find my entry ticket.
>>
>>What should I do ?
>>
>>Daisy
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 10:11:55 EDT
> From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re: Awning
> 
> Hey ALL!
> I spent the last year or so dealing with most of the issues on this thread!
> My 74 safari just had the rail. A friend gave me a new manual awning with 
> poles that had a vinyl rod that slid along the rail. I believe he said he got it 
> from JC Whitney.
> Used it twice and then sold the trailer. It was a pain in the @$$ to put up 
> and take down!
> Definitely was a two person job! It was not a simple task to slide it and 
> keep it aligned at the same time.
> 
> The Argosy came with the rail only and I called what I thought was a local 
> A/S dealer to see about a ZIPP DEE as I had two A/Ss with one and loved them 
> both!
> The dealer talked me into a Carefree and I am really not very happy with it!
> The install was a nightmare and after two return visits it is still not 
> closing properly.
> I spent the money and now I'm stuck with it!
> I wont publicly SLAM a business but if anyone in the PHX area wants to 
> contact me off list ~ I can give them the heads up on who it was. They no longer 
> sell A/S and after what I went through they wont get a referral from me!
> 
> 
> AlanT
> Phx AZ
> 78 Arg. 30
> 93 Dodge Cummins
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 10:40:16 EDT
> From: MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #288
> 
> Thanks to all for the suggestions on the interior paint removal and the 
> upper cabinets. I will be doing a work weekend on our darlin' toaster this 
> weekend, so I will report back about the results.
> 
> As for awning, we have a similar case of former zipdeeitis. I am going to 
> go the dirt cheap and lazy way, since spening $500+ for a custom job is just 
> too much for a rather optional item. 
> 
> At Home Depot, I bought two painters tarps (plan to use only one--keep the 
> other for paint removal inside). Most tarps there are heavy rough canvas, but 
> the ones I bought are both white, of a lighter weight but finer grade 
> canvas. My biggest choice is picking which one--one is backed with rubber. 
> However, having looked at a vintage awning (belonging to a friend who has a canned 
> ham) the not-backed one feels like the vintage one. I opened the cloth one 
> up--and to my delight I found that they flat felled the seams joining the 
> selvages of the fabric! However, there was also a big dirty footprint in the 
> middle, so I'm planning to wash it (anyhow, it needs to be pre-shrunk). Then I 
> plan to sew a piece of rope into the end, like welting or piping. In the 
> vintage ones, this fit into the awning channel. For poles, I have ordered a 
> bunch of retractable poles from _www.campmor.com_ (http://www.campmor.com) . I 
> will sew a bit of heavier canvas at the stake-out points as reinforcement, 
> then pound in big brass grommets for pole insertion at those points.
> 
> I'll also seam a channel in the front and sides (leaving a bit to flop down 
> as valance), to insert lateral reinforcement poles (in the vintage one, this 
> stoped it from slumping down at the sides). Then I will miter the valance 
> sides and paint stripes on it (that was done on the vintage one!). Then if I 
> feel really ambitious, I may cut a wavy edge on the valance (or leave it 
> straight) and sew on some cotton bullion edging.
> 
> Did I say cheap? Here's my estimate based on materials gathered:
> 
> Tarp: 22.00 (rubberized version is $20, I think)
> 3" masking tape: 6.95
> Paint: 1.00 ("oops" item returned to Home Depot then resold at 
> discount--aclyd [acrylic] exterior paint)
> Cheap foam paint brush: .50
> Grommets: 2.00 (already own grommet tools, fwiw)
> 3 steel telescoping tent poles (at 8.00 each): 24.00
> thread, rope, reinforcing material, stake out line, tent stakes etc. will be 
> scavenged from stuff I already own.
> 
> Optional items I may add in:
> Dye it a fun color: about $5.00
> Wash-in water repellant (2 bottles at 10): 20.00
> 
> 4 steel ridge poles (at 22.00 each): 88.00 (for lateral reinforcements)
> 
> 11 yards cotton 3" bullion fringe (so far, see for best price $3/yard): 
> 33.00 
> 
> So, my basic option is only $56.45! Plus, since the tarp came with felled 
> seams, all I have to do is sew the valance, reinforcements and rope 
> edge--painting on the stripes will be the only labor intensive job. For $5 more, I can 
> pre-dye it a fun color with a handy package of rit dye. I will probably 
> also run it through the machine with a bit of wash-in (nikwax) water repellant. 
> I am not sure about using the ridge poles for reenforcement ones since they 
> are so expensive (yes, I am cheap)--so I think I'll try it without them at 
> first. The bullion trim may be my downfall though. It would look so neat 
> with a nice fringe and wavy valance! 
> 
> Mary 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 11:02:13 -0400
> From: "Ron Ainsworth" 
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #288
> 
> Mary, you have just solved a problem we have been toying with.
> 
> We have a Carefree on our 1972 that needs to have the awning material
> changed after 32 years. The canvas is a great idea. How big is that canvas
> you bought?
> 
> Ron & Barbara Ainsworth
> '72 Ambassador International 29'
> The Land Yatch Gen. Forrest
> Rome, Ga.
> 
> - ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 10:40 AM
> Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #288
> 
> 
> 
>>Thanks to all for the suggestions on the interior paint removal and the
>>upper cabinets. I will be doing a work weekend on our darlin' toaster
> 
> this
> 
>>weekend, so I will report back about the results.
>>
>>As for awning, we have a similar case of former zipdeeitis. I am going
> 
> to
> 
>>go the dirt cheap and lazy way, since spening $500+ for a custom job is
> 
> just
> 
>>too much for a rather optional item.
>>
>>At Home Depot, I bought two painters tarps (plan to use only one--keep
> 
> the
> 
>>other for paint removal inside). Most tarps there are heavy rough
> 
> canvas, but
> 
>>the ones I bought are both white, of a lighter weight but finer grade
>>canvas. My biggest choice is picking which one--one is backed with
> 
> rubber.
> 
>>However, having looked at a vintage awning (belonging to a friend who has
> 
> a canned
> 
>>ham) the not-backed one feels like the vintage one. I opened the cloth
> 
> one
> 
>>up--and to my delight I found that they flat felled the seams joining the
>>selvages of the fabric! However, there was also a big dirty footprint in
> 
> the
> 
>>middle, so I'm planning to wash it (anyhow, it needs to be pre-shrunk).
> 
> Then I
> 
>>plan to sew a piece of rope into the end, like welting or piping. In the
>>vintage ones, this fit into the awning channel. For poles, I have ordered
> 
> a
> 
>>bunch of retractable poles from _www.campmor.com_
> 
> (http://www.campmor.com) . I
> 
>>will sew a bit of heavier canvas at the stake-out points as
> 
> reinforcement,
> 
>>then pound in big brass grommets for pole insertion at those points.
>>
>>I'll also seam a channel in the front and sides (leaving a bit to flop
> 
> down
> 
>>as valance), to insert lateral reinforcement poles (in the vintage one,
> 
> this
> 
>>stoped it from slumping down at the sides). Then I will miter the
> 
> valance
> 
>>sides and paint stripes on it (that was done on the vintage one!). Then
> 
> if I
> 
>>feel really ambitious, I may cut a wavy edge on the valance (or leave it
>>straight) and sew on some cotton bullion edging.
>>
>>Did I say cheap? Here's my estimate based on materials gathered:
>>
>>Tarp: 22.00 (rubberized version is $20, I think)
>>3" masking tape: 6.95
>>Paint: 1.00 ("oops" item returned to Home Depot then resold at
>>discount--aclyd [acrylic] exterior paint)
>>Cheap foam paint brush: .50
>>Grommets: 2.00 (already own grommet tools, fwiw)
>>3 steel telescoping tent poles (at 8.00 each): 24.00
>>thread, rope, reinforcing material, stake out line, tent stakes etc. will
> 
> be
> 
>>scavenged from stuff I already own.
>>
>>Optional items I may add in:
>>Dye it a fun color: about $5.00
>>Wash-in water repellant (2 bottles at 10): 20.00
>>
>>4 steel ridge poles (at 22.00 each): 88.00 (for lateral reinforcements)
>>
>>11 yards cotton 3" bullion fringe (so far, see for best price $3/yard):
>>33.00
>>
>>So, my basic option is only $56.45! Plus, since the tarp came with
> 
> felled
> 
>>seams, all I have to do is sew the valance, reinforcements and rope
>>edge--painting on the stripes will be the only labor intensive job. For
> 
> $5 more, I can
> 
>>pre-dye it a fun color with a handy package of rit dye. I will probably
>>also run it through the machine with a bit of wash-in (nikwax) water
> 
> repellant.
> 
>>I am not sure about using the ridge poles for reenforcement ones since
> 
> they
> 
>>are so expensive (yes, I am cheap)--so I think I'll try it without them at
>>first. The bullion trim may be my downfall though. It would look so
> 
> neat
> 
>>with a nice fringe and wavy valance!
>>
>>Mary
>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 13:03:58 -0400
> From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" 
> Subject: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued . . .
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Need some information about a '73 Airstream '27 foot that I hope the VAlist
> can provide. I leave in the morning to inspect the unit and need some
> information.
> 
> First, is this the year/length that is involved with the rear sag? I looked
> at a '70 of the same length and the rear floor was gone and the expected
> moving bumper was evident. Also, up at the wheel well, there was a
> significant buckle on the street side and a slight buckle on the curb side.
> I'm hoping that Airstream got it right by '73? Hope I don't have to walk
> away from the '73 as I did with the '70. An inexperienced buyer of the '70
> may want to salvage rather than restore as the damage is extensive.
> 
> Second, the bathroom floor is missing in the '73 and I have considerable
> experience with my '69 Safari floor replacement. However, my '74 Argosy has
> a different means of attachment of the shell to the frame than the '69
> Safari. The Safari has the floor pinched between the cross frame and the
> monocoque along with the bumper hatch shelf that directs water into the
> floor and . . . disaster. The Argosy has the monocoque connected directly
> to the frame and the bath floor rests on a cross member in front of the
> monocoque/frame connection. Simplifies floor restoration as frame
> separation isn't an issue. This said, what's the consensus about bolt rivet
> replacement to ensure that frame separation won't occur.
> 
> Third, the holding tanks seem to be running parallel to the main frame
> rails. I seem to recall seeing pictures of floor restoration with this
> arrangement. Are the holding tank shrouds subject to the same deterioration
> as in my Safari?
> 
> Fourth, With the floor completely rotted out across the rear and under the
> commode, what is the list's opinion of frame/cross member deterioration?
> Seems that the floor may have been saturated from a leaking commode
> valve/plumbing. Seems probable that there was freeze damage that I'll have
> to inspect.
> 
> The unit doesn't have a battery, making it difficult to check out the
> seller's statement of the operational aspects of accessories. I'll try to
> use my emergency truck starting battery pack for the purpose. Hopefully
> this is OK?
> 
> Sure appreciate any information the list thinks might be valuable in
> assessment of the restorability of this unit.
> 
> Regards, '69 Safari, Joy
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 14:05:22 -0400
> From: "Jim Combs" 
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued . . .
> 
> From: Mr. Joy H. Hansen [mailto:joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net] 
> 
> [snip]
> 
>>Second, the bathroom floor is missing in the '73 and I have considerable
>>experience with my '69 Safari floor replacement. However, my '74 Argosy
> 
> has
> 
>>a different means of attachment of the shell to the frame than the '69
>>Safari. The Safari has the floor pinched between the cross frame and the
>>monocoque along with the bumper hatch shelf that directs water into the
>>floor and . . . disaster. 
> 
> 
> If I follow your description correctly, expect the '73 to 
> be like your Safari. My '76 rear bath is that way.
> 
> 
>>Third, the holding tanks seem to be running parallel to the main frame
>>rails. I seem to recall seeing pictures of floor restoration with this
>>arrangement. Are the holding tank shrouds subject to the same
> 
> deterioration
> 
>>as in my Safari?
>>
>>Fourth, With the floor completely rotted out across the rear and under the
>>commode, what is the list's opinion of frame/cross member deterioration?
>>Seems that the floor may have been saturated from a leaking commode
>>valve/plumbing. Seems probable that there was freeze damage that I'll have
>>to inspect.
> 
> 
> My bathroom floor was severely rotted. I removed all the fixtures, 
> and the entire bathroom floor (~ 4'x8' sheet). Also removed the 
> holding tanks and repaired a minor area of the framework that had 
> rusted away. Pulled and banged out the dents in the 'banana' 
> panels too.
> 
> I replaced the floor in 3 pieces as it had to be slipped into the 
> perimeter channel that connects the shell, frame, and floor. The 
> two seems sit on top of the main rails of the ladder frame.
> 
> I've got pictures taken throughout the teardown all the way to 
> where looking down you see nothing but dirt and grass. The pics 
> aren't up on any web page tho. I could email 'em to you if 
> you'd like. Let me know. 
> 
> Jimbo / '76 Sovereign 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 14:21:44 -0400
> From: "Jim Combs" 
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Airstream Quest Continued . . .
> 
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Combs, Jim [NGD:2G54:EXCH] 
> 
> 
>>I replaced the floor in 3 pieces as it had to be slipped into the 
>>perimeter channel that connects the shell, frame, and floor. The 
>>two seems sit on top of the main rails of the ladder frame.
> 
> 
> Let me correct myself here -- I should've written "...it had to 
> be slipped UNDER the perimeter channel..." -- not "slipped INTO". 
> 
> The U-channel sits on top of the plywood floor, which sits on 
> top of the frame rails and outriggers. 
> 
> Jimbo / '76 Sovereign 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 12:34:31 -0700
> From: Joann Wheatley 
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #288
> 
> Great plan, Mary:
> Then, as soon as you're finished, I'll fly you out here and you can 
> build me one. I'm sure the airfare will be less than my latest estimate 
> for an awning and the room & board here are a bargain if you don't mind 
> sleeping with a big black poodle on top of your feet and a giant 
> Spinone on the floor by your bed (he talks in his sleep by the way). Of 
> course, I'll have to buy a sewing machine for your use.....
> Jo Ann
> On 24, Jun 2004, at 7:40 AM, MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> 
> 
>>Thanks to all for the suggestions on the interior paint removal and the
>>upper cabinets. I will be doing a work weekend on our darlin' toaster 
>>this
>>weekend, so I will report back about the results.
>>
>>As for awning, we have a similar case of former zipdeeitis. I am 
>>going to
>>go the dirt cheap and lazy way, since spening $500+ for a custom job 
>>is just
>>too much for a rather optional item.
>>
>>At Home Depot, I bought two painters tarps (plan to use only 
>>one--keep the
>>other for paint removal inside). Most tarps there are heavy rough 
>>canvas, but
>>the ones I bought are both white, of a lighter weight but finer grade
>>canvas. My biggest choice is picking which one--one is backed with 
>>rubber.
>>However, having looked at a vintage awning (belonging to a friend who 
>>has a canned
>>ham) the not-backed one feels like the vintage one. I opened the 
>>cloth one
>>up--and to my delight I found that they flat felled the seams joining 
>>the
>>selvages of the fabric! However, there was also a big dirty 
>>footprint in the
>>middle, so I'm planning to wash it (anyhow, it needs to be 
>>pre-shrunk). Then I
>>plan to sew a piece of rope into the end, like welting or piping. In 
>>the
>>vintage ones, this fit into the awning channel. For poles, I have 
>>ordered a
>>bunch of retractable poles from _www.campmor.com_ 
>>(http://www.campmor.com) . I
>>will sew a bit of heavier canvas at the stake-out points as 
>>reinforcement,
>>then pound in big brass grommets for pole insertion at those points.
>>
>>I'll also seam a channel in the front and sides (leaving a bit to 
>>flop down
>>as valance), to insert lateral reinforcement poles (in the vintage 
>>one, this
>>stoped it from slumping down at the sides). Then I will miter the 
>>valance
>>sides and paint stripes on it (that was done on the vintage one!). 
>>Then if I
>>feel really ambitious, I may cut a wavy edge on the valance (or leave 
>>it
>>straight) and sew on some cotton bullion edging.
>>
>>Did I say cheap? Here's my estimate based on materials gathered:
>>
>>Tarp: 22.00 (rubberized version is $20, I think)
>>3" masking tape: 6.95
>>Paint: 1.00 ("oops" item returned to Home Depot then resold at
>>discount--aclyd [acrylic] exterior paint)
>>Cheap foam paint brush: .50
>>Grommets: 2.00 (already own grommet tools, fwiw)
>>3 steel telescoping tent poles (at 8.00 each): 24.00
>>thread, rope, reinforcing material, stake out line, tent stakes etc. 
>>will be
>>scavenged from stuff I already own.
>>
>>Optional items I may add in:
>>Dye it a fun color: about $5.00
>>Wash-in water repellant (2 bottles at 10): 20.00
>>
>>4 steel ridge poles (at 22.00 each): 88.00 (for lateral 
>>reinforcements)
>>
>>11 yards cotton 3" bullion fringe (so far, see for best price 
>>$3/yard):
>>33.00
>>
>>So, my basic option is only $56.45! Plus, since the tarp came with 
>>felled
>>seams, all I have to do is sew the valance, reinforcements and rope
>>edge--painting on the stripes will be the only labor intensive job. 
>>For $5 more, I can
>>pre-dye it a fun color with a handy package of rit dye. I will 
>>probably
>>also run it through the machine with a bit of wash-in (nikwax) water 
>>repellant.
>>I am not sure about using the ridge poles for reenforcement ones 
>>since they
>>are so expensive (yes, I am cheap)--so I think I'll try it without 
>>them at
>>first. The bullion trim may be my downfall though. It would look so 
>>neat
>>with a nice fringe and wavy valance!
>>
>>Mary
>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> === message truncated ===
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #291
*************************


-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html