The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #287
VAL Digest Wednesday, June 23 2004 Volume 01 : Number 287
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Black holding tank
Re: [VAL] Battery charger questions
Re: [VAL] Black holding tank
[VAL] Adding Gray Water Tank
Re: [VAL] Battery charger questions
Re: [VAL] Adding Gray Water Tank
[VAL] Cabinet question
[VAL] Black holding tank
[VAL] Battery charger questions
Re: [VAL] Cabinet question
Re: [VAL] Adding Gray Water Tank
[VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Re: [VAL] Attachments (was Here is a winner)
Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
[VAL] Re: Thor T@B
Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Re: [VAL] Re: Thor T@B
[VAL] Battery management
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 04:40:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Birdsong <tbirddog7@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Black holding tank
Let me start this out by saying that I am very new to all of this. I have a Safari
1963 ,that I bought on e-bay a few week ago.To put it mildly it smells bad.I think
the odor is coming form the black holding tank.No one in my family has ever used
that "John" in any form.I've had this trailer for about two months and have been
working on it as time and money allows ( new A/C.new curtains,.new floor covering,
new upholstery and on and on)I did fill up the black holding tank to make sure it
didn't leak and that the valves were working .But it was only with plain water from
garden hose.I did this a couple of times.And it seemed to work fine.After many
dollars and much time My family spent our first night camping out it the front yard.
It was about all I could do to stay.Also the CO2 monitor keep going off.The gas is
turned of fat the tanks and the only thing on was the ref. and it was ruining on
electricity( it too is new).I've put some stuff in the black holding tank that we
use for our
turn out gear here at the fire station and this seems to help a little.The stuff
I used is supposed to get the stink out.But I don't know.So if anyone can clue me
in ,help. Thanks,Tom B.
- ---------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 08:42:30 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Battery charger questions
Lead-acid batteries prefer to never be discharged or left discharged.
Running them flat is damaging. Leaving the flat is most damaging.
Lead-acid batteries can accept large charging rates and in our cars and
trucks supply large currents for a short time cranking and then the
alternator recharges rapidly. The alternator in my '98 F-150 stock from
the factory is rate at 140 amps max. Probably doesn't charge the battery
at more than 80 or 100 amp rate though I've not checked that with a
meter. And this battery appears to be the original but I need to check
that. 6 years on a 5 year battery can mean its getting to the end of
life.
A lead-acid battery forms lead sulfate in the plates as it discharges.
This replaces sponge lead but its a slightly larger volume. If the
battery is recharged soon after any discharge the transformation back to
sponge lead is complete. If deeply discharged and left that way the
minute particles of lead sulfate combine to form crystals of lead
sulfate that either fall from the plates or not, taking active material
out of action. If the crystals don't fall from the plates, they still
are active material locked up in crystals that don't convert well during
charging.
The characteristics of a sulfated battery show during charging and
discharge. First on charging with a constant voltage, the battery
current never tapers off, then it doesn't supply a load nearly as long
as it should.
Lead-acid gel cell batteries are generally more delicate with limits on
maximum discharge and charge rates and in my experiences, far more
picking about not being left discharged. They generally are starved for
electrolyte.
Nickel-cadmium batteries have sometimes shown a memory effect if put
back on charge before being fully discharged. This first was noticed at
NASA when they were testing a particular wet cell for life and the test
equipment discharged the batteries being tested for precisely the same
time and to the same remaining partial discharge. When they later tested
the batteries for full capacity, they found a significant voltage drop
precisely at that amount of discharge. Most consumer ni-cad batteries
don't use that wet construction and most battery makers deny their
batteries show that memory effect. Its generally acknowledged that the
discharge level has to be very consistent over a long period of time to
cause this memory effect. Unless the charger for ni-cad is quite
sophisticated (with battery temperature sensing as well) the safe way to
charge ni-cad is for 16 hours at a current equal to 0.1 the amp-hour
rating. E.g. if its a 10 amp-hr battery, charge at 1 amp. Ni-cad
batteries can be charge more rapidly but will have a rapid rise in
temperature than can cause loss of electrolyte.
A serious problem with a battery of several to many cells when deeply
discharged is that the cell capacities never quite match, and the weak
cells will be discharged more deeply than the strong cells, sometimes to
the point of being charged in reverse polarity. This isn't good for the
lead-acid battery though it survives it. This is definitely bad for the
ni-cad because the reverse cell tends to form whiskers of metal and they
tend to short the cell. Deep discharge for ni-cad is better when done at
the individual cell than for the whole battery.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 08:42:36 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Black holding tank
RV stores and the RV department at Walmart carry a blue liquid and
sometimes packets of powder that are great for drastically reducing the
smell of such toilets and holding tanks. Looking a RV catalog, I see:
Refresh Blue and Refresh Green, Refresh Enzyme both liquid and dry, plus
Odorolos, Highway Joe, Travel Jon tablets and liquid, Monochem T-5,
Enviro-chem, and Potty Toddy. A standard problem with many solutions. I
suspect they work best if you stick with one and don't mix them. I know
the one I've used in my outhouse at the farm has been quite effective.
It was just a 5 gallon bucket under the seat, though weather has
destroyed the house, the bucket survives.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 09:53:43 -0500
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Adding Gray Water Tank
I have a 1969 Caravel that is presently stripped out. Does anyone have
information about adding a gray water tank? The bath/shower is presently in
the back/streetside. Black water is under stool. What if a shower is moved
forward and placed on a gray water tank. Then the sink can dump into the
top of the gw tank. Head ( my head) room may be a problem. Any
suggestions?
Dan
14148
>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 09:58:02 -0500
From: "Dean L." <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Battery charger questions
You never want to run a Lead Acid Battery down if you can help it.
Keep them charged up all the time or you may warp your plates and other
nasty things.
You should be able to charge a battery at 10% or less of the storage
rate keep a check on your water level always.
The people that told you to run your battery flat, were they also
trying to sell you a new battery too. ??
See You On The Road
Dean L.
WBCCI 2486
On Jun 21, 2004, at 10:40 PM, Joe Winkler wrote:
> The earlier questions about batter chargers brought a different
> question to my mind. I have a "marine" type battery in my trailer
> because they are suppose to be designed to handle slow draw-down
> better. Is it true that once you start to draw the battery down you
> should not recharge it until it is completely flat? I have been told
> that if you don't it will not hold as much juice the next time. Also,
> I have also been told that you should always trickle charge it back
> up, never more than a few amps at a time. Are these all examples of
> urban myths?
> Joe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 11:13:16 -0400
From: "Wally" <maltnhops@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Adding Gray Water Tank
Dan,
I, too, have a stripped out Caravel ('66) and I'm entertaining the idea
of putting in a gray water tank. But don't move your shower. Put the GW
tank under the floor, not above it like the current black tank. This has
been discussed on the list before, so it should be in the archives. The
best place for the new tank would be between the frame members and over the
axle. This will keep your weight distribution the same as it is now and
won't cause additional stress on the frame because it is supported from
below by the axle. The tank would have to be fairly flat, but it will
work. Several other have done this. Good luck!
Wally,
'66 Caravel, Percy
WBCCI #23618, VAC
New Hampshire
Subject: [VAL] Adding Gray Water Tank
> I have a 1969 Caravel that is presently stripped out. Does anyone have
> information about adding a gray water tank? The bath/shower is presently
in
> the back/streetside. Black water is under stool. What if a shower is
moved
> forward and placed on a gray water tank. Then the sink can dump into the
> top of the gw tank. Head ( my head) room may be a problem. Any
> suggestions?
> Dan
> 14148
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 13:04:04 EDT
From: MaryDotson@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Cabinet question
I wonder if anyone knows if there is a way to remove the sliding doors off
from the overhead interior cabinets? I can't seem to figure out anyway (short
of removing the cabinet from the trailer) to get them out.
Another question here--our trailer has been repainted (latex, I think) over
the Zolatone. I would like to return it to the original finish--but wonder
if this is possible. I suppose there might be a paint remover that will
shred the latex but not zolatone--any ideas? Also, one complicating
factor--underneath it all, the end caps are fiberglass! Is this daft? Should I just
give up on the Zolatone and slap primer over the whole shebang?
Argh.
Mary
61 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 13:06:18 -0400
From: joepatwink@xxxxxxxxxx.net (Joe Winkler)
Subject: [VAL] Black holding tank
Tom,
Maybe your vent is plugged. Sometimes they do plug with leaves or other material, if so
then the black water tank would not be able to vent outside the trailer and push fumes
through the water traps below the sinks to stink up the place. You could also try to leave
a small about of water in the toilet to help hold the seal there.
Joe in Wyoming
Tom Birdsong <tbirddog7@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
>Let me start this out by saying that I am very new to all of this. I have a Safari 1963 ,
>that I bought on e-bay a few week ago.To put it mildly it smells bad.I think the odor is coming
>form the black holding tank.No one in my family has ever used that "John" in any form.I've had
>this trailer for about two months and have been working on it as time and money allows ( new
>A/C.new curtains,.new floor covering,new upholstery and on and on)I did fill up the black
>holding tank to make sure it didn't leak and that the valves were working .But it was only with
>plain water from garden hose.I did this a couple of times.And it seemed to work fine.After many
>dollars and much time My family spent our first night camping out it the front yard.It was about
>all I could do to stay.Also the CO2 monitor keep going off.The gas is turned of fat the tanks
>and the only thing on was the ref. and it was ruining on electricity( it too is new).I've put
>some stuff in the black holding tank that we use !
>for our
> turn out gear here at the fire station and this seems to help a little.The stuff I used
>is supposed to get the stink out.But I don't know.So if anyone can clue me in ,help. Thanks,Tom B.
__________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 13:27:54 -0400
From: joepatwink@xxxxxxxxxx.net (Joe Winkler)
Subject: [VAL] Battery charger questions
Dean and Dr. J,
Thanks for the info. I guess people who told me to draw it all the way down were
thinking of ni-cad batterys. Our first camping trip is getting closer and closer,
even if it did snow on me last Sunday while scouting for elk hunting spots.
Wyoming Joe
1964 Tradewind
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 11:54:18 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Cabinet question
There are screws on the front of the cabinet or just inside on the track -
just remove them
Ken
At 01:04 PM 06/22/04 -0400, you wrote:
>I wonder if anyone knows if there is a way to remove the sliding doors off
>from the overhead interior cabinets? I can't seem to figure out anyway
>(short
>of removing the cabinet from the trailer) to get them out.
>
>Another question here--our trailer has been repainted (latex, I think) over
>the Zolatone. I would like to return it to the original finish--but wonder
>if this is possible. I suppose there might be a paint remover that will
>shred the latex but not zolatone--any ideas? Also, one complicating
>factor--underneath it all, the end caps are fiberglass! Is
>this daft? Should I just
>give up on the Zolatone and slap primer over the whole shebang?
>
>Argh.
>
>Mary
>61 Safari
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 14:16:30 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Adding Gray Water Tank
Hi Dan,
I have a '69 Safari with rear bath. Most likely your layout is different
than mine; however, my commode is on the street corner with the outlet
dropping inside the frame and into the existing black water tank. The gray
water joins the outlet right outside the gate valve for the black water. If
I were to add a gray water tank, I'd use the existing tank as the gray water
only. There are corner black water tanks that sit in the corner. The
commode sits on a platform on top of the tank. Having your commode on the
curb side certainly complicates things as you'd need to run a drain across
the bumper hatch, hopefully to join with the gray water outlet. Should be
simple to drop the dump through the floor outside the frame as is the layout
for many Airstreams. Personally, I think the above floor black water tank
is the best option. Putting the gray water tank under the shower would
complicate drains.
Just use a short form commode to replace the tall form and you might have
the head room you are looking for? Though, a tilt steering wheel might be
more practical.
I lessened the aft axle weight by changing out the water heater ( gained
50#s), the charger (gained 50#s), and the ceramic Thetford (gained about
20#s), and the weight is more than I'd expect from a full black water tank
(8 gallons Xs 8.5 pounds per gallon). Then, it's a seldom occasion when
travel would be with the black and gray water tanks full. Though boon
docking makes dumping pretty difficult at times. I usually travel with the
potable water tank nearly full, so weight distribution shouldn't be a
problem.
Also, the new Dexter axle I bought is rated at 10% more than OEM Henchen
specification. I'd be sure your torsion axles are in good shape as you are
in the years that Henchen had trouble with deterioration of the torsion
rubber.
Don't know what other suggestions you'll get, but this is my thought and
I'll attempt it if and when I get tired of the blue boy or I develop a
problem with the existing black water tank. :)
Regards, '69
Safari, Joy
- ----- Original Message -----
> I have a 1969 Caravel that is presently stripped out. Does anyone have
> information about adding a gray water tank? The bath/shower is presently
in
> the back/streetside. Black water is under stool. What if a shower is
moved
> forward and placed on a gray water tank. Then the sink can dump into the
> top of the gw tank. Head ( my head) room may be a problem. Any
> suggestions?
> Dan
> 14148
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 15:40:22 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Does anyone have the email of the fellow who was selling these 60 amp
converter + Wizard for about $200? I bought one and now I need yet
another.
New item: Looked at some of the little Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B
"teardrops" today. They sure are cute. Did Airstream ever manufacture a
teardrop? When? Thanks.
Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 16:02:43 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Don't know about the Inteli-Powers, but Thor _is_ Airstream. This is their
first teardrop. Wally didn't make any.
BTW, the highlighted link is an e-mail address. Is this to request a
brochure or something?
Roger
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 3:40 PM
Subject: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
> Does anyone have the email of the fellow who was selling these 60 amp
> converter + Wizard for about $200? I bought one and now I need yet
> another.
>
> New item: Looked at some of the little Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B
> "teardrops" today. They sure are cute. Did Airstream ever manufacture a
> teardrop? When? Thanks.
> Jo Ann
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 16:23:08 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Attachments (was Here is a winner)
OK Tom. And I think I'll give it a try and attempt to post some pics
too.
Jo Ann
On 21, Jun 2004, at 8:42 PM, Tom Patterson wrote:
> Roger is correct in this instance, I think. Application/octet-stream
> does
> indicate an attachment in binary, which is likely a picture attachment
> in
> this situation. It could also be an executable file such as a virus
> however. Therefore, all attachments of this type are stripped from
> messages
> sent to the list.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 16:38:45 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Roger:
Thanks for the info. Which highlighted link? In my portion of the
email? What is the address to which you refer?
Jo Ann
On 22, Jun 2004, at 4:02 PM, Roger Hightower wrote:
> Don't know about the Inteli-Powers, but Thor _is_ Airstream. This is
> their
> first teardrop. Wally didn't make any.
>
> BTW, the highlighted link is an e-mail address. Is this to request a
> brochure or something?
>
> Roger
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 3:40 PM
> Subject: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
>
>
>> Does anyone have the email of the fellow who was selling these 60 amp
>> converter + Wizard for about $200? I bought one and now I need yet
>> another.
>>
>> New item: Looked at some of the little Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B
>> "teardrops" today. They sure are cute. Did Airstream ever manufacture
>> a
>> teardrop? When? Thanks.
>> Jo Ann
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
>> text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 19:41:27 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Thor T@B
The 1936 Airstream of Dr Holman's looks VERY similar to the TAB. When I
first saw it I thought my God, they went back to the 30's to get the design
from Wally then Thor didn't have the decency to call it an Airstream.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
.....Don't know about the Inteli-Powers, but Thor _is_ Airstream. This is
their
> first teardrop. Wally didn't make any....
- -----------------------------
.........New item: Looked at some of the little Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B
> > "teardrops" today. They sure are cute. Did Airstream ever manufacture a
> > teardrop? When? Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 19:54:02 -0500
From: "Gary Ricketts" <gricketts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Joann
Don't know if this is the same one, but www.progressivedyn.com has
remanufactured ones with charge wizard under $200.
Gary
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 5:40 PM
Subject: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
> Does anyone have the email of the fellow who was selling these 60 amp
> converter + Wizard for about $200? I bought one and now I need yet
> another.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 18:38:37 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
> Roger:
> Thanks for the info. Which highlighted link? In my portion of the
> email? What is the address to which you refer?
> Jo Ann
This was in your posting:
>> New item: Looked at some of the little Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B
and was the e-mail link. I wasn't sure what it was for.
Roger
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 18:44:39 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Roger:
Was the """Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B"
the wording you took to be a link? If so, remember that the new little
teardrop is called or badged as "T@B". I have no idea why they named it
that.
Jo Ann
On 22, Jun 2004, at 6:38 PM, Roger Hightower wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 4:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
>
>
>> Roger:
>> Thanks for the info. Which highlighted link? In my portion of the
>> email? What is the address to which you refer?
>> Jo Ann
>
> This was in your posting:
>
>>> New item: Looked at some of the little Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B
>
> and was the e-mail link. I wasn't sure what it was for.
>
> Roger
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 18:57:04 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
Click on it and see what happens.
Roger
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
> Roger:
> Was the """Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B"
> the wording you took to be a link? If so, remember that the new little
> teardrop is called or badged as "T@B". I have no idea why they named it
> that.
> Jo Ann
> On 22, Jun 2004, at 6:38 PM, Roger Hightower wrote:
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> > To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 4:38 PM
> > Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
> >
> >
> >> Roger:
> >> Thanks for the info. Which highlighted link? In my portion of the
> >> email? What is the address to which you refer?
> >> Jo Ann
> >
> > This was in your posting:
> >
> >>> New item: Looked at some of the little Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B
> >
> > and was the e-mail link. I wasn't sure what it was for.
> >
> > Roger
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 22:03:26 -0600
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Thor T@B
When I saw the TAB last year it wasn't being marketed by Thor. At least
Thor's name wasn't to be found on the brochure, and the salesman told me it
was made in Germany. It is listed now as a Thor product, but that just
likely means that Thor liked it and bought out the company. The TAB website,
http://www.tab-rv.com/inside.php?input=T1, states that some of the assembly
is from Europe. I've heard that the product has been plagued by leaks,
although when I saw it first hand at an RV show I thought it was very well
made. It is too short for me. At 5' 11" I can not stand up in it. The web
site says 5' 9", but only then if you are standing in the sweet spot. There
is no bathroom or toilet, so it falls short in the area of being
self-contained. I really don't think it looks that much like any of Wally's
early trailers, not even Dr. Holman's.
Forrest
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 5:41 PM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Thor T@B
> The 1936 Airstream of Dr Holman's looks VERY similar to the TAB. When I
> first saw it I thought my God, they went back to the 30's to get the
design
> from Wally then Thor didn't have the decency to call it an Airstream.
>
> Scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 7:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Intelliverter/Charge Wizard
>
>
> .....Don't know about the Inteli-Powers, but Thor _is_ Airstream. This is
> their
> > first teardrop. Wally didn't make any....
> -----------------------------
> .........New item: Looked at some of the little Thor Industry/Dutchman/T@B
> > > "teardrops" today. They sure are cute. Did Airstream ever manufacture
a
> > > teardrop? When? Thanks.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 21:45:37 -0700
From: Gary Heebner <nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: [VAL] Battery management
Hi to all,
As the paycheques allow, I will be converting my Univolt to the Intellipower
with Charge Wizard (battery choices to be decided later). Before I dive into
the project, I would prefer to design it out completely, thus I'm wondering if
there is a monitoring system available that will accurately state the number
of amps currently in use, as well as measure the battery's charge for number
of amp-hours available (either total amp-hours, or available amp-hours to 50%
battery depletion--or some such figure).
Also, I saw a posting on this site or Airstreamforums (can't remember) in
which the author showed how to keep the indicator light functional on the main
gauge panel after switching from Univolt to Intellipower--does anyone recall
this post?
Thanks for your help.
Gary H.
4slice ('77 31')
Prince George, BC
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #287
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