The Vintage Airstream E-mail List

Digest Archive Files


VAL Digest V1 #274



VAL Digest           Thursday, June 10 2004           Volume 01 : Number 274




-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] Corning windows
Re: [VAL] Corning windows
RE: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
[VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap
Re: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
[VAL] A/C Shroud
Re: [VAL] A/C Shroud
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #273
[VAL] Re: water cap
RE: [VAL] Re: water cap
[VAL] Andy at Inland RV re: windows, water fill caps
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #273
RE: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
[VAL] removing trailer numbers
[VAL] open window injuries re:Scott
[VAL] Window curtain sliders
Re: [VAL] Window curtain sliders
Re: [VAL] A/C Shroud
Re: [VAL] open window injuries re:Scott
Re: [VAL] A/C Shroud
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap
Re: [VAL] Re: water cap
Re: [VAL] Andy at Inland RV re: windows, water fill caps
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap
Re: [VAL] Lexan windows and split heads

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 04:20:54 -0400
From: "Nick Novia" <nicholas_s_novia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Corning windows

Glass is the most preferable, IMHO.  It looks better, and seals better. The
replacement Lexan...looks like replacement Lexan.  I would pay more fpr an
AS with all Corning glass.

Nick Novia
"68 Safari...with all glass...but it wasn't easy!
CT

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Corning windows


> What does everyone think about this? I'm curious, because tempered curved
> glass replacements can be had, at or below the current "market" value, but
> even at that some think it is too much to pay. Yet, vintage owners will
> substitute Lexan AR-15 with the special stainless steel trim and the
special
> SS clips that with shipping and handling end up being just about as
> expensive. So, here is the question -- if I replaced all of my Corning
> window glass with Lexan would I increase or decrease the value of my
> Airstream? Obviously, I think all glass windows enhance the value of an
> Airstream and plastic decreases the value, but what do you all think?
>
> Forrest
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 04:21:07 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Corning windows

With out a doubt glass windows improve the value of vintage Airstreams.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Corning windows


> What does everyone think about this? I'm curious, because tempered curved
> glass replacements can be had, at or below the current "market" value, but
> even at that some think it is too much to pay. Yet, vintage owners will
> substitute Lexan AR-15 with the special stainless steel trim and the
special
> SS clips that with shipping and handling end up being just about as
> expensive. So, here is the question -- if I replaced all of my Corning
> window glass with Lexan would I increase or decrease the value of my
> Airstream? Obviously, I think all glass windows enhance the value of an
> Airstream and plastic decreases the value, but what do you all think?
>
> Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 06:10:55 -0600
From: "JP Polly" <jppolly@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color

I found that the numbers curled up and died really fast!  It took forever
and a lot of scraping to get the original ones off though, so something has
changed.  I bought a new set and seem to recall there was some discussion
about the quality and that it had been improved?  But my new ones have not
been on long enough to test that theory.  I don't see any reason why you
can't get replacement ones from a sign shop - the number is yours, is it
not?  And who cares where it comes from?
Polly in CO
WBCCI 7113

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 07:11:13 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap

Is this the style of filler you are talking about?
http://vintageairstream.com/Images/tour%20images/det,filler.jpg

You see more with original chains than without.
Someone mentioned using black pipe cap. Don't do it, will quickly rust
and also will damage the soft nonstandard threads. Only option is to
find an old one - old dead trailers are the primary source, doesn't have
to be an Airstream.  A machine shop "might" be able to make one, but the
threads will be a bear.

Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com

>
> Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 14:41:32 -0700
> From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>
>     Tom, Gerald and all,
>
>     Thanks for all the great ideas everybody.
>
>     I just went out and looked again in daylight (amazing
> what a difference
> that makes ;  - ) and measured the very neat one-piece cast
> aluminum flange
> and standpipe.  It's a 1 3/32" diameter pipe by my tape
> measure standards
> with 10 threads per inch.  That said, there are slightly more
> than 1/2" of
> threads cut into it so I multiplied a good 1/2" section at
> five threads, top
> to top and doubled that.  I did notice that the safety chain
> is clearly not
> factory and that one end is secured to the flange by means of
> one of the
> four screws that hold the flange to the outer skin.
>
>     Tom, would you mind taking a few measurements of your cap
> and passing
> that information my way?  A photo too maybe?  Armed with that and the
> standpipe, I'll go to my favorite machine shop and have him
> cut a cap for me
> at $60/hr., ouch!
>
>     Any other takers out there want to get in on this?
>
>     Regards,
>
>     Glyn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 07:20:36 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap

    RJ,

    From what I can tell, that sure looks like my standpipe.  I'll search
'till I find a cap, rest assured (and a track).  ; - )

    Thanks for the chain information.  Do you know it the chain was included
on 1969 models? 

    Thanks again,

    Glyn Judson
    1969 Caravel #508
    Santa Monica CA

> From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 07:11:13 -0700
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap
> 
> Is this the style of filler you are talking about?
> http://vintageairstream.com/Images/tour%20images/det,filler.jpg
> 
> You see more with original chains than without.
> Someone mentioned using black pipe cap. Don't do it, will quickly rust
> and also will damage the soft nonstandard threads. Only option is to
> find an old one - old dead trailers are the primary source, doesn't have
> to be an Airstream.  A machine shop "might" be able to make one, but the
> threads will be a bear.
> 
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
> 
>> 
>> Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 14:41:32 -0700
>> From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>> 
>> Tom, Gerald and all,
>> 
>> Thanks for all the great ideas everybody.
>> 
>> I just went out and looked again in daylight (amazing
>> what a difference
>> that makes ;  - ) and measured the very neat one-piece cast
>> aluminum flange
>> and standpipe.  It's a 1 3/32" diameter pipe by my tape
>> measure standards
>> with 10 threads per inch.  That said, there are slightly more
>> than 1/2" of
>> threads cut into it so I multiplied a good 1/2" section at
>> five threads, top
>> to top and doubled that.  I did notice that the safety chain
>> is clearly not
>> factory and that one end is secured to the flange by means of
>> one of the
>> four screws that hold the flange to the outer skin.
>> 
>> Tom, would you mind taking a few measurements of your cap
>> and passing
>> that information my way?  A photo too maybe?  Armed with that and the
>> standpipe, I'll go to my favorite machine shop and have him
>> cut a cap for me
>> at $60/hr., ouch!
>> 
>> Any other takers out there want to get in on this?
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Glyn
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 10:38:55 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap

I'm not sure the water fill pipe threads are non standard and even if they
are between being able to cut standard and metric threads it's an easy job
for a machinist to cut any thread  pitch you need within reason. Airstream
would have no incentive to cut anything unreasonable.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 10:11 AM
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap


> Is this the style of filler you are talking about?
> http://vintageairstream.com/Images/tour%20images/det,filler.jpg
>
> You see more with original chains than without.
> Someone mentioned using black pipe cap. Don't do it, will quickly rust
> and also will damage the soft nonstandard threads. Only option is to
> find an old one - old dead trailers are the primary source, doesn't have
> to be an Airstream.  A machine shop "might" be able to make one, but the
> threads will be a bear.
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:51:23 -0400
From: <lindner.1@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color

6/8/2004 5:05:40 PM, JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

>O yes I had them done in Old English.

Buzzards (on the other list) and Old English numbers!  Jim, you are unique and an asset to both lists.

          -- Lew #4239

'72 Safari
Stuck in Ohio for a  bit longer.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 10:53:18 -0400
From: <harley.muse@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] A/C Shroud

On our way to the Region 2 Rally this past week a super strong gust of
wind took the a/c shroud off our '74 Trade Wind.  It is an Armstrong
Model TR21.  Does anyone know if there are replacements for this as the
a/c looks really bad sitting up there without its clothes on?  It works
great and I don't want to have to replace the entire unit just because
of its nakedness.

Harley C. Muse
WBCCI #7566
'75 Trade Wind

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 11:52:26 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] A/C Shroud

Harley,

I know Inland RV has some replacement AC shrouds. Check with them to see if 
they have one for your specific model. You can reach them at 800-877-7311 
7-4 Pacific time.

Dave

At 10:53 AM 6/9/2004, you wrote:
>On our way to the Region 2 Rally this past week a super strong gust of
>wind took the a/c shroud off our '74 Trade Wind.  It is an Armstrong
>Model TR21.  Does anyone know if there are replacements for this as the
>a/c looks really bad sitting up there without its clothes on?  It works
>great and I don't want to have to replace the entire unit just because
>of its nakedness.
>
>Harley C. Muse
>WBCCI #7566
>'75 Trade Wind
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 12:07:03 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #273

Forrest.

Tempered glass still breaks.

Lexan does not.

The cost to fabricate a tempered curved glass for a 66-67-68, in a quantity 
of one, far exceeds the cost of the Lexan. Adding the metal moldings to the 68 
windows served two purposes. With the metal moldings on the windows, you can 
now easily see them when they are open. Ask people who have split their head 
open walking into one of those windows without the moldings at a rally.

Secondly, the moldings add rigidity to the windows as well as improving the 
looks.

Therefore to most people, the Lexan windows "increase" the value of the 
trailer, by knowing that the windows are very secure. Adding the metal moldings to 
the 66 and 67 trailers, likewise, adds to the value.

Andy
Inland RV Center, Inc.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 12:50:34 -0400
From: john dorsey <jrdorsey@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: water cap

I would have one special made as a last recourse. Airstream probably 
didn't have them made with a special thread, the problem is finding 
which thread it is.

 From what I've read I was thinking NH (NST) National Hose thread, but 
it would be uncommon in 1-1/4". If it were 1-1/2" NH it would be easy to 
come up with a cap.

Anyway here is a link to just about any piping/hose thread in general use.

http://www.tamparubber.com/mainthd.htm

With a little research it should't be too hard to come up with an 
off-the-shelf solution.

Oh yeah, A little tip, some modeling clay or playdough pressed into the 
threads and Carefully removed, can be taken to a real hardware store 
(not Home Depot) and checked with a thread gauge.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 13:05:19 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: water cap

Thanks for that link to tamparubber.com and the *tip* about the playdough or
molding clay for checking the thread pitch.  That should be very helpful!

Tom
WBCCI 5303

On Behalf Of john dorsey
Subject: [VAL] Re: water cap

I would have one special made as a last recourse. Airstream probably 
didn't have them made with a special thread, the problem is finding 
which thread it is.

 From what I've read I was thinking NH (NST) National Hose thread, but 
it would be uncommon in 1-1/4". If it were 1-1/2" NH it would be easy to 
come up with a cap.

Anyway here is a link to just about any piping/hose thread in general use.

http://www.tamparubber.com/mainthd.htm

With a little research it should't be too hard to come up with an 
off-the-shelf solution.

Oh yeah, A little tip, some modeling clay or playdough pressed into the 
threads and Carefully removed, can be taken to a real hardware store 
(not Home Depot) and checked with a thread gauge. 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 13:24:59 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Andy at Inland RV re: windows, water fill caps

Hi Andy,

You are correct I am sure about the cost difference of the actual windows
being made in small quantities versus the Lexan *replacement* type.  The
Lexan would certainly take a lot of abuse versus one hit in the right place
for that tempered glass original window.  The metal moldings were a plus in
more ways than one as you stated below.  

It would really be interesting for those of us not in need of these
replacement windows that have had our interest piqued, to finally know how
many people actually are able to order and have made, glass windows for
their Airstream trailers.  I for one would like to know if and when it
happens how expensive these glass replacements cost as compared to the Lexan
windows you offer.  I would think that the setup costs alone would deter
most vintage Airstreamers from the glass and quickly convert them to the
Lexan alternative.  Let's hope we hear 'the rest of the story' when the jury
comes in.

What do you know about the water fill caps that has been discussed, Andy?
Did you see Dr G's post with all his measurements he did on his own water
refill cap?  Do you carry replacements for those in need of these caps?  If
you are familiar with them (and I have NO doubt you must be by now) do you
know of any other way people have secured them not only TO their trailers
but also how people have secured them for personal safety as it concerns
their drinking water supply in some cases?

Short of building a security 'box' to enclose the water fill cap as I did on
our 1969 29' International Ambassador what have you seen others do?  Maybe
not much thought has been given to the idea of securing the water fill cap;
maybe there isn't much concern (well, at least there wasn't before now I'm
guessing) about *theft* of an easily taken part of our vintage Airstream by
those who in the past would steal hubcaps or worse.  I was more concerned
about the integrity of our drinking water supply years ago when I made my
own locking security box -- not that would ever stop anyone intent on doing
harm.

I think it's awful that terrorism today causes us to think about our
personal safety even while we are trying to get away from it all, relaxing
in our home away from home Airstream trailers.  I guess the *real* carefree
days are now in the past when we have to constantly be vigilant about our
surroundings.

So, do you know about those water fill caps, Andy? ;)

Tom
WBCCI 5303




On Behalf Of Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com

Forrest.

Tempered glass still breaks.

Lexan does not.

The cost to fabricate a tempered curved glass for a 66-67-68, in a quantity 
of one, far exceeds the cost of the Lexan. Adding the metal moldings to the
68 
windows served two purposes. With the metal moldings on the windows, you can

now easily see them when they are open. Ask people who have split their head

open walking into one of those windows without the moldings at a rally.

Secondly, the moldings add rigidity to the windows as well as improving the 
looks.

Therefore to most people, the Lexan windows "increase" the value of the 
trailer, by knowing that the windows are very secure. Adding the metal
moldings to 
the 66 and 67 trailers, likewise, adds to the value.

Andy
Inland RV Center, Inc. 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 13:22:40 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #273

I have one of the older trailers with the heavy alum frames around each
window. Believe me, having the frame/molding does not help much with seing
that the windows are open!!! I have several dents in my skull from
unfortunate meetings between my head and the window!

Scott
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>

... Adding the metal moldings to the 68
> windows served two purposes. With the metal moldings on the windows, you
can
> now easily see them when they are open. Ask people who have split their
head
> open walking into one of those windows without the moldings at a rally.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 13:42:52 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color

Hi, Polly

I have been told to use a *warm* hair dryer to loosen the adhesive on old
numbers "and then they will come off easily", so I've been told.  I've yet
to test this way of removal but those old, ugly, curled up numbers WILL come
off one way or another.  They really look tacky when they get that way.

Thanks for your reply.

Tom
WBCCI 5303


On Behalf Of JP Polly
Subject: RE: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color

I found that the numbers curled up and died really fast!  It took forever
and a lot of scraping to get the original ones off though, so something has
changed.  I bought a new set and seem to recall there was some discussion
about the quality and that it had been improved?  But my new ones have not
been on long enough to test that theory.  I don't see any reason why you
can't get replacement ones from a sign shop - the number is yours, is it
not?  And who cares where it comes from?
Polly in CO
WBCCI 7113

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 14:27:28 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] removing trailer numbers

When I replaced my numbers a couple of years back I had good success with
the following:

Have the trailer in the sun on a warm summer day,
place wet towel over numbers,
lightly use warm iron,
numbers easily peeled off with no damage to clear coating.

Scott

- ----- Original Message ----- 

.....I have been told to use a *warm* hair dryer to loosen the adhesive on
old
> numbers "and then they will come off easily",

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 14:40:00 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] open window injuries re:Scott

Scott,

Have you given any consideration to attaching *safety orange* colored
ribbons to the hold down parts of the lock on lower inside of these window
frames?  When the window is open you will be able to SEE these BRIGHT ORANGE
ribbons even if they are just 6" long as they blow in the breeze at the
EDGES of these open windows.  These same type of ribbons are also called
STREAMERS when used on aircraft -- they also say "Remove Before Flight" on
them.  Maybe doing something like this will save some blood! ;)

Tom
WBCCI 5303


On Behalf Of Scott Scheuermann

I have one of the older trailers with the heavy alum frames around each
window. Believe me, having the frame/molding does not help much with seing
that the windows are open!!! I have several dents in my skull from
unfortunate meetings between my head and the window!

Scott


From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>

... Adding the metal moldings to the 68
> windows served two purposes. With the metal moldings on the windows, you
can
> now easily see them when they are open. Ask people who have split their
head
> open walking into one of those windows without the moldings at a rally.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:52:36 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Window curtain sliders

Hello All - maybe R J Dial can help me on this one.. I want to replace
the curtains on the 57 overlander. Was wondering if the sliders or tabs
or whatever the little things that slide in the C channel to open and
close the curtains are the same one sold by TJ Trailers site (item A) .
it is  I hope it came through. R. J. shows us how to repair the
originals on his site and was wondering if this is the same tabs and if
they are used in conjunction with the stainless steel pin hooks (item R)
	 Maybe someone else had a source for what I am looking for. I know I
can have them made, however, when your aunt offers to make them for you
why go elseware. Thanks in advance.
Jerry in GA
WBCCI VAC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 16:07:16 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Window curtain sliders

Jerry, for what its worth the "J" tabs are what are used in my '60.

Scott

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Jarrell" <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 2:52 PM
Subject: [VAL] Window curtain sliders


> Hello All - maybe R J Dial can help me on this one.. I want to replace
> the curtains on the 57 overlander. Was wondering if the sliders or tabs
> or whatever the little things that slide in the C channel to open and
> close the curtains are the same one sold by TJ Trailers site (item A) .

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 17:23:21 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] A/C Shroud

Too bad you dont live close by we could fabricate a totaly unique one out of 
fiberglass and give it a realy one of a kind finish purple metalflake comes to 
mind meby also a flame treatement. the possibilites are endless.
Jim Smith 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 17:01:36 -0500
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] open window injuries re:Scott

I tried to knock the corner off the cabinet over the stove with my forehead 
a few times and Mary hung a little plastic spinner from the corner and my 
head healed up... I am sure the same would help with the windows, but the 
overall picture might suffer with all the spinners flapping ... I also 
replaced all the handles on the cabinet doors with a handle without sharp 
corners... for the same reason... apparently my attention to details is 
slipping or I would not need the help...

Jim


At 01:40 PM 6/9/2004, you wrote:
>Scott,
>
>Have you given any consideration to attaching *safety orange* colored
>ribbons to the hold down parts of the lock on lower inside of these window
>frames?  When the window is open you will be able to SEE these BRIGHT ORANGE
>ribbons even if they are just 6" long as they blow in the breeze at the
>EDGES of these open windows.  These same type of ribbons are also called
>STREAMERS when used on aircraft -- they also say "Remove Before Flight" on
>them.  Maybe doing something like this will save some blood! ;)
>
>Tom
>WBCCI 5303
>
>
>On Behalf Of Scott Scheuermann
>
>I have one of the older trailers with the heavy alum frames around each
>window. Believe me, having the frame/molding does not help much with seing
>that the windows are open!!! I have several dents in my skull from
>unfortunate meetings between my head and the window!
>
>Scott
>
>
>From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>
>... Adding the metal moldings to the 68
> > windows served two purposes. With the metal moldings on the windows, you
>can
> > now easily see them when they are open. Ask people who have split their
>head
> > open walking into one of those windows without the moldings at a rally.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 19:53:40 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] A/C Shroud

Harley,

I bought one from Inland RV, it was expensive, and then I had it painted 
by an auto paint guy and put a nice blue stripe on it and then it didn't 
fit. It needs someone who doesn't mind working with fiberglass to cut 
out around where it meets the trailer.  I ran out of time before the VT 
International and just patched up the old one and hit it with silver 
spray paint. It looks just fine and I'm not too interested in dealing 
with the new one at this point.

I was going to say I would sell it to you, but I have no idea what the 
freight on it would be, It's not heavy, but big.

Right now it's just sitting in the weeds. The original was plastice that 
would have been just fine to trim, this is a copy.

Shall I look up a price ?

Daisy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 18:24:57 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap

The threads in the cap on my '68 Caravel are 8 to the inch. Super
standard, 1-5/8" diameter. McMaster-Carr has a tap for that
specification. I could lathe cut them cheaper in small quantity. Its not
pipe thread, the diameter is .040 (1 mm) too small for 1-1/4" water pipe
and pipe threads in that size or 11.5 to the inch. Pipe gets to 8 per
inch up above 2" pipe size.

McMaster-Carr has a rethreading die for the 1-5/8" - 8 thread, about
$104 each.

The threads in my cap were a perfect fit on the threads of a 1"-8 tap in
my tap drawer.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 18:25:10 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: water cap

Wasn't on that web page at all. I measured the OD of the thread at
1.620, both in the cap (there's a cap for air on each side of the cap
with threads missing for a 1/2" so I could see the peak of the thread)
and on the male thread. That's with a good dial caliper, I don't have a
.0001 micrometer to go over an inch so I have to settle for the dial
caliper (not a plastic dial caliper, one made of good instrument steel
that I've had quite a few years).

Its too small for 1-1/4" pipe.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 20:36:55 -0400
From: <lindner.1@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Andy at Inland RV re: windows, water fill caps

6/9/2004 10:24:59 AM, Tom <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com> wrote:

>I think it's awful that terrorism today causes us to think about our
>personal safety even while we are trying to get away from it all, relaxing
>in our home away from home Airstream trailers.  I guess the *real* carefree
>days are now in the past when we have to constantly be vigilant about our
>surroundings.

Hm-m-m-m-m.  Consider a different perspective:

My great-great grandparents helped colonize Fayette county, TX.  Despite the much 
smaller population then, said great-great grandfather was assassinated on the steps of 
the capitol building, as he was leaving a meeting of the legislature (1873).  The 
assassins never were caught.  The anglos across the road in the western part of the county 
carried revolvers and Winchesters while they went about their business of rounding up 
people's  cattle -- they weren't particular about whose, and they shot each other up 
with notorious regularity (1890's).  My grandfather was nearly lynched (1917).  In those 
"romantic" days before WWI, everything was powered by muscle, mostly horses, 
which left around a lot of feces and the resultant flies.  People (and animals) froze in 
the winter, and were broiled in the summer.  Most of my relatives suffered from the 
malaria that was endemic in Texas, and had to endure frequent epidemics of yellow fever, 
cholera, diptheria, typhoid, and other such nasties.  It's a wonder any of them 
ever survived to beget yours truly.  

Nowadays I go camping in the same area every winter, for months.  I exercise no vigilance, 
but I haven't been shot at yet.  I haven't stepped in any horse manure, or seen 
any flies.  I am very comfortable in my a/s, with automatic thermostatically-controlled 
LP gas heat, running water, electricity, etc.  The last epidemics Texas experienced 
were polio in the late 1940's and early 50's.  Now when I do need medical care (like when 
I broke my ankle in February), there is a small but up-to-date and well-equipped 
medical clinic right up the road, that immediately does what is medically indicated.  

Personal safety?  There is no comparison.

                 -- Lew #4239

'72 Safari
Stuck in Ohio, for just a little bit longer.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 19:03:58 -0600
From: "Earl Peck" <earlpeck@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap

DR. J,
If you were to make them , count me in for one.
Earl in Idaho
wbcci 1965
65 overlander`
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Water fill cap


>I could lathe cut them cheaper in small quantity. > 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 22:00:16 -0600
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Lexan windows and split heads

Andy,

I ordered Lexan prescription glasses a few years ago. They too had scratch
resistant coating, but never the less they did not hold up nearly as well as
glass lens. I've since returned to glass lens for my eye prescription. The
problem of Lexan's flexibility (which can be a plus in the right
application) doesn't end simply along the edges where the metal trim that
you sell can be installed. On the larger windows plastic tends to lie flat
toward the middle, and then bow out along the edges. The metal trim itself
can interfer with obtaining a weather tight seal, especially where the clips
are along the bottom edge. The trim makes for a more complicated window (in
terms of obtaining a good seal), and it will split open your head just as
easily as the polished edges of the Corning glass.

If someone continues to have problems running into open Airstream windows
(whether it be Corning or some other year) then there is a simple solution.
Buy some inexpensive copper pipe insulation. It is a flexible foam tube that
fits over copper pipe and is split along one side. Cut it to the appropriate
length, open it up at the split and slip it over the edge of your open
windows. It will stay on even better with framed windows, you can nearly
close the window with it in place. If you want to got even farther with this
idea go to a toy store. They have these bright colored foam tubes, sometimes
called "boppers", that kids harmlessly hit each other with. These foam tubes
also have a split running along the side and can be opened up and again
slipped over the edge of windows. Being bright colored and thicker they
would offer even more protection.

Forrest

 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 10:07 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #273


> Forrest.
>
> Tempered glass still breaks.
>
> Lexan does not.
>
> The cost to fabricate a tempered curved glass for a 66-67-68, in a
quantity
> of one, far exceeds the cost of the Lexan. Adding the metal moldings to
the 68
> windows served two purposes. With the metal moldings on the windows, you
can
> now easily see them when they are open. Ask people who have split their
head
> open walking into one of those windows without the moldings at a rally.
>
> Secondly, the moldings add rigidity to the windows as well as improving
the
> looks.
>
> Therefore to most people, the Lexan windows "increase" the value of the
> trailer, by knowing that the windows are very secure. Adding the metal
moldings to
> the 66 and 67 trailers, likewise, adds to the value.
>
> Andy
> Inland RV Center, Inc.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #274
*************************


-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text

To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html