The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #273
VAL Digest Wednesday, June 9 2004 Volume 01 : Number 273
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Topics in Today's Digest:
RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
RE: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
[VAL] Re: Mystery Trailer & Rear Dragging!
Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
[VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
RE: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
[VAL] Tom B re: food grade silicone lubricant
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
[VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
[VAL] 67 ickies...
Re: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
Re: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
RE: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
RE: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
RE: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
[VAL] I only need a track and a cap
RE: [VAL] I only need a track and a cap
Re: [VAL] I only need a track and a cap
Re: [VAL] Corning windows
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 02:10:12 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Glyn,
I have a 1969 29' International Ambassador. There was NO security chain at
all attached to these caps -- there is no place on these caps *originally*
for that to be done as MY cap is the real McCoy and would most like fit your
trailer just fine.
How about measuring the O.D. of the stand pipe below the threads so we will
know what sized pipe we are talking about. I can take my cap to a machine
shop and get the thread pitch read and you could also do that on your end IF
you have a thread pitch gauge or can borrow one.
You know, a black steel pipe cap of the appropriate size just might fit the
stand pipe and have the same thread pitch -- I can't see Airstream NOT
putting something so *standard* on our trailers back in those model years.
The black steel pipe is available at Lowe's or Home Depot and is used for
natural gas in homes today. It is painted black and is NOT galvanized which
will be safer for your use on the trailer. The galvanized pipe is very
hardened and can't even be used for pipe clamps whereas the black pipe can
be used as you are able to get a good bite into the metal with pipe clamps,
vice-grips, etc.
Let me know if I can help you. OK?
Tom
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Glyn Judson
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:33 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Forrest,
Well, not exactly. I'd like to hold out for an original if I knew what
I were looking for.
I just went out to the Caravel ('69 California built) and brought the
current cap in. It's a dome shaped, 1 1/4" PVC end cap that someone's added
a tapped Phillips screw to, smack in the top and then painted with aluminum
paint. All in all, it don't look any too bad. It's screwed to a seemingly
original safety chain that attaches to the inlet pipe flange at the outer
skin. The cap has NSF threads and it cross threads within a bit more than
one full revolution so the threads on the inlet pipe seem to be different.
A quick glance in the night darkness suggests that the pipe threads are
farther apart than the ones in the cap.
Gerald help, what do I have? Is the safety chain an after market add-on
or is this the way they came?
Tom, I could well have one made if I could get my hands on an original
to pattern a new one on.
Thanks all for your thoughts and suggestions,
Glyn
> From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 21:40:08 -0600
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>
> Glyn,
>
> Is this what you are looking for:
>
http://www.cornerhardware.com/item_222251/Plumbing/Water-Gas-Pipe-Fittings/G
al
> vanized-Iron-Pipe-Fittings/Florite2-Galvanized-Pipe-Cap.html ?
>
> Forrest
>
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>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 02:35:46 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Forrest,
The original cap has a slightly raised dome on the lid that is wider than it
is high in size.
I did a search on the black pipe I wrote about and it seems that the black
oxide pipe is only used for gas lines and hot water boiler installations but
NOT for potable water. If you didn't plan to use the trailer fresh water
tank to drink from I guess it would be OK to use. I'd use some Teflon pipe
thread sealer to stop the threads from rusting though.
Tom
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Forrest
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 11:40 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Glyn,
Is this what you are looking for:
http://www.cornerhardware.com/item_222251/Plumbing/Water-Gas-Pipe-Fittings/G
alvanized-Iron-Pipe-Fittings/Florite2-Galvanized-Pipe-Cap.html ?
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 02:46:27 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
I've never seen a knurled edge on these water tank caps. Did they actually
make any like that? My original has no provisions for a chain either nor
any place to attach it to the trailer body.
I don't know if there is a big market for these caps though but I bet you'd
sure make some nice ones if you were to do so!
Tom
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 9:11 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Why make it 8' long? Is that wide enough to not miss one end part of the
time. Why not make two pads, each a foot wide and position them
precisely just before the trailer wheels get to the dip? The short
stacks would be a whole lot handier to move though a big feature of the
orange plastic blocks is that they are much lighter than wood and so
much easier to handle.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 07:20:02 -0400
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Mystery Trailer & Rear Dragging!
Thank you to Jim, Kevin, Paul, Scott, Roger and all who responded to my
rear end problem! I'm going to pull in and out of the driveway without
the bars and see what happens. The dip isn't the drainage at the bottom
its at my driveway so I can't put a grate over it. I think you've got
the idea Paul with the angle also. A few times it didn't happen when I
backed in at an angle and almost hit a tree! When I pull out it is at
an angle so it doesn't seem to happen then either.
The mystery trailer might be Dicky Riegel's 53 Flying Cloud. He's the
CEO/Pres. of Airstream and he just got it. They are restoring it at the
plant and it was inside at the time of the fire. He said the shell and
frame were apart at the time and there wasn't much damage. I know he
wanted to have it around for the Homecoming.
Thanks again for the help!
Patti
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 08:25:44 -0500
From: "Gary Ricketts" <gricketts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Ross,
You and Glynn might try Camper Repair Center in Montevallo, Al at
205-665-2531. He is an Airstream dealer that does mostly salvage.
Gary
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 12:52 PM
> A buddy of mine is looking for a left (US driver's side) rear window for
his
> 68 Caravel (mysteriously broken over the weekend). I've checked my list of
> restoration resources and my archive of this list and came up empty.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 08:58:16 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
If the chain wasn't original, I'd be adding one after I lost the first
cap.
I'm sure the threads are unique to the Airstream filler, likely not used
with any other brand of trailer. Not pipe threads and only a couple
turns of threads. Means cutting on the lathe by hand power, rather than
motor power. The modern machine shop would mill those threads on an NC
mill which I don't have.
Since the aluminum has a propensity to stick, a knurled edge would make
future opening easier. And a chain would make the cap far less likely to
be lost. That chain and its hardware ought to be made of stainless
steel. Maybe the cap too, though that changes the ease of threading
immensely.
Black iron pipe probably isn't painted, its coated with the black iron
oxide that results from letting it cool from red in the air. In the
weather and with water it rusts easily. Galvanized pipe has been used
for potable water for eons, its not hardened, just dipped in molten zinc
that adheres like solder and the zinc is sacrificed first where there's
bare steel and zinc along side. Sometimes the zinc will peel when
attacked with a pipe wrench. Some pipe and fittings are electroplated
with zinc which leaves too little zinc to be of great benefit.
The filler neck on the Airstream is aluminum and the cap probably should
only be aluminum or stainless steel. The cap has a gasket inside that
makes the seal and provides tension on the threads to try to keep it
from vibrating off.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 08:41:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Birdsong <tbirddog7@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
You might want to try some food grade silicon on the threads as this will help retard the
sticking.And also help lubricate the seals.Tom B.
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 10:03:50 -0600
From: Michael & Tracy Bertch <scrapirony@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Hello,
I had the same problem with our '68 Overlander bottoming out on the
sidewalk across the driveway...I initially fixed the drag problem by
'building a pair of fill-in ramps for the dip. For each ramp, I used
2X6's(side by side-cheaper than 2X12's). The first layer was 8 feet, the
second was 4 feet, and the third was about 2 1/2 feet. Each shorter
layer was centered into the longer one and held together with deck
screws. An 8 foot by 1 foot piece of plywood held the two long pieces of
2X6 together. I made two of these, and backed the trailer up to the
driveway, got out and positioned the ramps, and backed on up over the
dip. When I pulled out, I reversed the process. A hassle, but so much
easier on the trailer frame and the driveway.
THEN, I discovered that you can buy a Reese adapter that drops the
trailer ball hitch 4 inches.
It was pricey(about $80), but slides right in to the Reese. The drop of
4 inches up front gave me just enough clearance to back in. I do have to
remove the bars on the tongue, as they would drag otherwise, but I was
so happy to be able to not have to wrestle the ramps that I don't mind.
If needed, I can have my wife attach pictures for specific questions(
I'm allowed to type responses and play solitaire, only).........mike
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 10:14:46 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
I've measured my cap.
Its 2-3/8" outside diameter, .700 inches thick, bored .500 inches deep
and has some of the threads missing to make a vent. That is there's a
1/2" segment of threads missing on opposite sides to make a vent. The
thread pitch is 8 per inch. My 1"-8 tap fits perfectly so its a 60
degree V thread. The thread outside diameter is about 1.620", very close
to 1-5/8" and McMaster-Carr shows a tap that size for $113.95. This
thread would be cut on a lathe most likely or the numerically controlled
milling machine. Its a coarser thread than 1-1/4 pipe (which is also a
bit larger at 1.660" o.d.) which is 11.5 threads per inch.
My cap looks like all but the threads were cast and so the dimensions
are a little imprecise. But it could be turned from a round bar of
6016-T6511 fairly nicely.
Something that would work pretty good would be the right size of thermos
bottle expanding seal. Not original though.
I don't find anything in the McMaster catalog other than the tap that
would fit. No nuts, no bottle caps, no pipe caps though the tap is noted
to match American Petroleum Institute standards. There is a thread
standard for 8 pitch threads from SAE also. In the real old days, it was
a pain to change the thread pitch on a metal lathe (or a cheap lathe
like mine) so a maker of machinery often settled on a constant pitch and
did everything on the machine at the same pitch. I worked over an 1880s
vintage machine for cutting moldings and it had all 12 pitch threads
whether 3/8", 1/2" or an inch or more in diameter, I believe for just
that reason. And there is a 12 pitch thread standard with many diameters
that still exists.
In metric it would be 41.15 mm diameter with a 3.175 mm pitch.
Gerald
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 12:15:05 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Patti
You may try backing out of the driveway first, then hooking up the bars once
you in the street. Without the bars on you should be tongue down and tail up
which should give you clearance over your trouble spot.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: KVFVWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQTIP
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 6:46 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
I do not have a Hensley anymore, I have a Reese. How do I adjust the
hitch? I think you guys mean to lower the bar but that would mean
adjusting by having to unscrew those really tight bolts to move the
bar. I'm not sure I could without a really big guy with huge muscles to
do so!! I would be easy to take the bars off, but they aren't the
problem. The tire holder is welded to the rear bumper and is about 1/2"
lower than the bumper. You should see the groove it carved in the
driveway! Gravel is a good idea but the driveway is solid.
Patti (really appreciating all help!)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 13:46:43 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
I'm a machinist and a good one could cut the threads on a replacement water
cap using machine power. I have a machine shop in my basement including
three lathes and two milling machines.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
> If the chain wasn't original, I'd be adding one after I lost the first
> cap.
>
> I'm sure the threads are unique to the Airstream filler, likely not used
> with any other brand of trailer. Not pipe threads and only a couple
> turns of threads. Means cutting on the lathe by hand power, rather than
> motor power. The modern machine shop would mill those threads on an NC
> mill which I don't have.
>
> Since the aluminum has a propensity to stick, a knurled edge would make
> future opening easier. And a chain would make the cap far less likely to
> be lost. That chain and its hardware ought to be made of stainless
> steel. Maybe the cap too, though that changes the ease of threading
> immensely.
>
> Black iron pipe probably isn't painted, its coated with the black iron
> oxide that results from letting it cool from red in the air. In the
> weather and with water it rusts easily. Galvanized pipe has been used
> for potable water for eons, its not hardened, just dipped in molten zinc
> that adheres like solder and the zinc is sacrificed first where there's
> bare steel and zinc along side. Sometimes the zinc will peel when
> attacked with a pipe wrench. Some pipe and fittings are electroplated
> with zinc which leaves too little zinc to be of great benefit.
>
> The filler neck on the Airstream is aluminum and the cap probably should
> only be aluminum or stainless steel. The cap has a gasket inside that
> makes the seal and provides tension on the threads to try to keep it
> from vibrating off.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 12:25:21 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Cutting under power means cutting no more than four threads before the
end of the hole. A lot easier with hand power than motor power. I have a
hand crank for my lathe for just such occasions.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 17:05:43 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Jim,
I'm glad to know that you are a good machinist! I'll make a note of that
and contact you in the future for some of my needs. Whereabouts in the USA
do you reside?
Tom
WBCCI 5303
On Behalf Of Jim Greene
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
I'm a machinist and a good one could cut the threads on a replacement water
cap using machine power. I have a machine shop in my basement including
three lathes and two milling machines.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 17:07:32 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Bobby,
She *has to* back 'into' her parking site -- no choice -- real estate is at
a PREMIUM on Long Island, NY. ;)
Tom
WBCCI 5303
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:15 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Patti
You may try backing out of the driveway first, then hooking up the bars once
you in the street. Without the bars on you should be tongue down and tail up
which should give you clearance over your trouble spot.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: KVFVWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQTIP
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 6:46 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
I do not have a Hensley anymore, I have a Reese. How do I adjust the
hitch? I think you guys mean to lower the bar but that would mean
adjusting by having to unscrew those really tight bolts to move the
bar. I'm not sure I could without a really big guy with huge muscles to
do so!! I would be easy to take the bars off, but they aren't the
problem. The tire holder is welded to the rear bumper and is about 1/2"
lower than the bumper. You should see the groove it carved in the
driveway! Gravel is a good idea but the driveway is solid.
Patti (really appreciating all help!)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 17:11:42 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
This is fantastic information, Dr G. Thank you for taking the time to
inform us all. This job done by you continues to prove that our Airstream
travel trailers are indeed *unique* and worth our time and investment.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
On Behalf Of Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
I've measured my cap.
Its 2-3/8" outside diameter, .700 inches thick, bored .500 inches deep
and has some of the threads missing to make a vent. That is there's a
1/2" segment of threads missing on opposite sides to make a vent. The
thread pitch is 8 per inch. My 1"-8 tap fits perfectly so its a 60
degree V thread. The thread outside diameter is about 1.620", very close
to 1-5/8" and McMaster-Carr shows a tap that size for $113.95. This
thread would be cut on a lathe most likely or the numerically controlled
milling machine. Its a coarser thread than 1-1/4 pipe (which is also a
bit larger at 1.660" o.d.) which is 11.5 threads per inch.
My cap looks like all but the threads were cast and so the dimensions
are a little imprecise. But it could be turned from a round bar of
6016-T6511 fairly nicely.
Something that would work pretty good would be the right size of thermos
bottle expanding seal. Not original though.
I don't find anything in the McMaster catalog other than the tap that
would fit. No nuts, no bottle caps, no pipe caps though the tap is noted
to match American Petroleum Institute standards. There is a thread
standard for 8 pitch threads from SAE also. In the real old days, it was
a pain to change the thread pitch on a metal lathe (or a cheap lathe
like mine) so a maker of machinery often settled on a constant pitch and
did everything on the machine at the same pitch. I worked over an 1880s
vintage machine for cutting moldings and it had all 12 pitch threads
whether 3/8", 1/2" or an inch or more in diameter, I believe for just
that reason. And there is a 12 pitch thread standard with many diameters
that still exists.
In metric it would be 41.15 mm diameter with a 3.175 mm pitch.
Gerald
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 17:14:30 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Tom B re: food grade silicone lubricant
Tom,
Where can you buy this food grade silicon you speak of?
Tom
WBCCI 5303
On Behalf Of Tom Birdsong
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
You might want to try some food grade silicon on the threads as this will
help retard the sticking.And also help lubricate the seals.Tom B.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 14:41:32 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Tom, Gerald and all,
Thanks for all the great ideas everybody.
I just went out and looked again in daylight (amazing what a difference
that makes ; - ) and measured the very neat one-piece cast aluminum flange
and standpipe. It's a 1 3/32" diameter pipe by my tape measure standards
with 10 threads per inch. That said, there are slightly more than 1/2" of
threads cut into it so I multiplied a good 1/2" section at five threads, top
to top and doubled that. I did notice that the safety chain is clearly not
factory and that one end is secured to the flange by means of one of the
four screws that hold the flange to the outer skin.
Tom, would you mind taking a few measurements of your cap and passing
that information my way? A photo too maybe? Armed with that and the
standpipe, I'll go to my favorite machine shop and have him cut a cap for me
at $60/hr., ouch!
Any other takers out there want to get in on this?
Regards,
Glyn
> From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 02:10:12 -0400
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>
> Glyn,
>
> I have a 1969 29' International Ambassador. There was NO security chain at
> all attached to these caps -- there is no place on these caps *originally*
> for that to be done as MY cap is the real McCoy and would most like fit your
> trailer just fine.
>
> How about measuring the O.D. of the stand pipe below the threads so we will
> know what sized pipe we are talking about. I can take my cap to a machine
> shop and get the thread pitch read and you could also do that on your end IF
> you have a thread pitch gauge or can borrow one.
>
> You know, a black steel pipe cap of the appropriate size just might fit the
> stand pipe and have the same thread pitch -- I can't see Airstream NOT
> putting something so *standard* on our trailers back in those model years.
>
> The black steel pipe is available at Lowe's or Home Depot and is used for
> natural gas in homes today. It is painted black and is NOT galvanized which
> will be safer for your use on the trailer. The galvanized pipe is very
> hardened and can't even be used for pipe clamps whereas the black pipe can
> be used as you are able to get a good bite into the metal with pipe clamps,
> vice-grips, etc.
>
> Let me know if I can help you. OK?
>
> Tom
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> On Behalf Of Glyn Judson
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:33 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>
> Forrest,
>
> Well, not exactly. I'd like to hold out for an original if I knew what
> I were looking for.
>
> I just went out to the Caravel ('69 California built) and brought the
> current cap in. It's a dome shaped, 1 1/4" PVC end cap that someone's added
> a tapped Phillips screw to, smack in the top and then painted with aluminum
> paint. All in all, it don't look any too bad. It's screwed to a seemingly
> original safety chain that attaches to the inlet pipe flange at the outer
> skin. The cap has NSF threads and it cross threads within a bit more than
> one full revolution so the threads on the inlet pipe seem to be different.
> A quick glance in the night darkness suggests that the pipe threads are
> farther apart than the ones in the cap.
>
> Gerald help, what do I have? Is the safety chain an after market add-on
> or is this the way they came?
>
> Tom, I could well have one made if I could get my hands on an original
> to pattern a new one on.
>
> Thanks all for your thoughts and suggestions,
>
> Glyn
>
>> From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
>> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>> Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 21:40:08 -0600
>> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>>
>> Glyn,
>>
>> Is this what you are looking for:
>>
> http://www.cornerhardware.com/item_222251/Plumbing/Water-Gas-Pipe-Fittings/G
> al
>> vanized-Iron-Pipe-Fittings/Florite2-Galvanized-Pipe-Cap.html ?
>>
>> Forrest
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 17:59:39 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
I'd like to discuss what others have done concerning the RED colored numbers
we use on our Airstreams that we get from the WBCCI folks.
I have noticed, and I don't think I'm the only one, that these RED numbers
don't seem to last "like they used to" - either that or my life really is
flying by at the speed of light. The numbers today seem to last but a few
seasons before they attempt to curl up and die - not really DEAD but they
look awful after a few seasons.
What have you done in regards to this issue? Have you just reordered new
numbers from WBCCI and installed them once again? Or, have you done
something "unique" to solve what to me might be just a personal dilemma? I
don't like the looks of anything shabby on my Airstream 34' FK classic
travel trailer. I like things neat and in their place and I love a neat
looking rig like most if not all of you do, too.
I have given some thought - dangerous, I know! - to the idea of seeking out
a sign shop to make these numbers out of a better grade of vinyl (if that is
the problem with the WBCCI numbers) at least. I have also thought about
having a vinyl sheet made in a rectangular shape with the RED numbers in
place, again made by a vinyl graphics shop. With the wide body trailers it
would seem that this type of design would lay flat and install easily - I
would hope anyway.
Or, I have also thought about cutting out my own RED numbers from a sheet of
*reflective* RED material that is also made of vinyl which has its' own
adhesive on the backside of the vinyl material.
As far as the *reflective* RED material goes I think it would look really
nice AND be unique at the same time. My numbers would then "glow in the
dark" you might say! ;) I have even thought of adding a very small
*reflective* WHITE outline to the RED reflective numbers for an added touch.
;)
The RED reflective numbers could double as an added safety measure
especially in low lighting situations and/or if your lights on the rear of
the trailer fail and you don't know about it yet.
The RED and WHITE reflective colors would be the same as the red and white
stripes you see on the sides and rear of tractor trailers which can be seen
for a great distance.
What do you think? What have you done if you have not been happy with the
numbers supplied by the nice people at WBCCI?
Thanks in advance to all who address this issue.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 15:03:53 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Gary,
Thanks for the lead. I spoke with Mr. Hare sp? there this morning.
He's an 85-year old gentleman and wants me to call back Thursday afternoon
by which time he says he'll have been able to look through three buildings
of trailer parts. He's even familiar with the odd shaped curtain track I'm
looking for but knows he doesn't have the aluminum water tank fill cap I'm
also looking for.
Wish me luck,
Glyn
> From: "Gary Ricketts" <gricketts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 08:25:44 -0500
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>
> Ross,
>
> You and Glynn might try Camper Repair Center in Montevallo, Al at
> 205-665-2531. He is an Airstream dealer that does mostly salvage.
>
> Gary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
> Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 12:52 PM
>
>
>> A buddy of mine is looking for a left (US driver's side) rear window for
> his
>> 68 Caravel (mysteriously broken over the weekend). I've checked my list of
>> restoration resources and my archive of this list and came up empty.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 18:45:38 -0500
From: "Gary Ricketts" <gricketts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Glyn,
Yes, he and his son are very knowledgeable about the Airstreams. I
don't think they are about the restoring of trailers like Andy but they do
have parts and they can order new parts. They have always called me back in
a couple of days after they have searched. If not call them back. They have
been a big help to me.
I like the fact you tell them what you need. If they have used or can get
new, they tell the price either way and you choose.
Gary
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
> Gary,
>
> Thanks for the lead. I spoke with Mr. Hare sp? there this morning.
> He's an 85-year old gentleman and wants me to call back Thursday afternoon
> by which time he says he'll have been able to look through three buildings
> of trailer parts. He's even familiar with the odd shaped curtain track
I'm
> looking for but knows he doesn't have the aluminum water tank fill cap I'm
> also looking for.
>
> Wish me luck,
> > From: "Gary Ricketts" <gricketts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>
> > You and Glynn might try Camper Repair Center in Montevallo, Al at
> > 205-665-2531. He is an Airstream dealer that does mostly salvage.
> >
> > Gary
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 17:00:13 -0700
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] 67 ickies...
When you have the pot off of the hole, how deep is the black water tank? I
am hoping that it is really shallow...otherwise, I think that I have a
nasty, nasty job to do.
Sharon, in BC
Saw a vintage trailer today. It pulled into the bakery (where I am the
baker) parking lot, but I didn't get a chance to see what it was.
Going camping in three more days, I don't think that I will have the 86 on
the road, will have to make do with the 79 rocket.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 20:05:40 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
I had a sign shop make up new numbers.Cost less than the official ones.
O yes I had them done in Old English.
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:43:49 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
I got new ones from WBCCI, I believe that they are 3M and the old ones were
not. Two years so far and they are looking fine.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
> I have noticed, and I don't think I'm the only one, that these RED numbers
> don't seem to last "like they used to"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:51:51 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
Thank you for your input, Scott. The reflective vinyl that I've been
looking at is also from 3M. What do you think about our numbers being
reflective? Any thoughts?
Tom
On Behalf Of Scott Scheuermann
Subject: Re: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
I got new ones from WBCCI, I believe that they are 3M and the old ones were
not. Two years so far and they are looking fine.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
> I have noticed, and I don't think I'm the only one, that these RED numbers
> don't seem to last "like they used to"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:55:13 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
Jim,
With all your fancy woodworking skills and your unique Airstream -- why
would I be surprised you chose to use Old English for a font? ;) I'm not.
;) You have certainly done lots of nice things for your Airstream. The
only thing with the Old English font, to me, would be whether or not it
could be read from across the Interstate from opposite travel lanes.
I know now that if I see an Airstream trailer out on the road with the Old
English numbers, it will be you! ;) Thanks for your input.
Tom
On Behalf Of JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] trailer numbers - WBCCI red color
I had a sign shop make up new numbers.Cost less than the official ones.
O yes I had them done in Old English.
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:58:53 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Glyn,
I see the subject line is for a window ... do you need one of those also?
Wouldn't you need wishes for luck 3 times then? Once each for a window, a
water fill pipe cap and once for the extrusion? I wish you luck 3 times!
Tom
WBCCI 5303
On Behalf Of Glyn Judson
Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Gary,
Thanks for the lead. I spoke with Mr. Hare sp? there this morning.
He's an 85-year old gentleman and wants me to call back Thursday afternoon
by which time he says he'll have been able to look through three buildings
of trailer parts. He's even familiar with the odd shaped curtain track I'm
looking for but knows he doesn't have the aluminum water tank fill cap I'm
also looking for.
Wish me luck,
Glyn
> From: "Gary Ricketts" <gricketts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>
> Ross,
>
> You and Glynn might try Camper Repair Center in Montevallo, Al at
> 205-665-2531. He is an Airstream dealer that does mostly salvage.
>
> Gary
> From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
>> A buddy of mine is looking for a left (US driver's side) rear window for
> his
>> 68 Caravel (mysteriously broken over the weekend). I've checked my list
of
>> restoration resources and my archive of this list and came up empty.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 20:07:26 -0600
From: Robert Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Ross & Glyn,
Drop Forrest McClure an email, he is close to being able to offer
replacement bent glass.
>>"Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
>>
>><>A buddy of mine is looking for a left (US driver's side) rear window
for<> his 68 Caravel (mysteriously broken over the weekend). I've checked my
list of restoration resources and my archive of this list and came up empty.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 19:12:16 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] I only need a track and a cap
Tom,
Ah, nooo, I only need the track and the cap now. I forgot to change the
subject heading, sorry. : - (
Glyn
> From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:58:53 -0400
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>
> Glyn,
>
> I see the subject line is for a window ... do you need one of those also?
> Wouldn't you need wishes for luck 3 times then? Once each for a window, a
> water fill pipe cap and once for the extrusion? I wish you luck 3 times!
>
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
>
>
> On Behalf Of Glyn Judson
> Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>
> Gary,
>
> Thanks for the lead. I spoke with Mr. Hare sp? there this morning.
> He's an 85-year old gentleman and wants me to call back Thursday afternoon
> by which time he says he'll have been able to look through three buildings
> of trailer parts. He's even familiar with the odd shaped curtain track I'm
> looking for but knows he doesn't have the aluminum water tank fill cap I'm
> also looking for.
>
> Wish me luck,
>
> Glyn
>
>> From: "Gary Ricketts" <gricketts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>>
>> Ross,
>>
>> You and Glynn might try Camper Repair Center in Montevallo, Al at
>> 205-665-2531. He is an Airstream dealer that does mostly salvage.
>>
>> Gary
>
>> From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
>>> A buddy of mine is looking for a left (US driver's side) rear window for
>> his
>>> 68 Caravel (mysteriously broken over the weekend). I've checked my list
> of
>>> restoration resources and my archive of this list and came up empty.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 22:31:51 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] I only need a track and a cap
Just teasing you, ;)
Tom
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Glyn Judson
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:12 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] I only need a track and a cap
Tom,
Ah, nooo, I only need the track and the cap now. I forgot to change the
subject heading, sorry. : - (
Glyn
> From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:58:53 -0400
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>
> Glyn,
>
> I see the subject line is for a window ... do you need one of those also?
> Wouldn't you need wishes for luck 3 times then? Once each for a window, a
> water fill pipe cap and once for the extrusion? I wish you luck 3 times!
>
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
>
>
> On Behalf Of Glyn Judson
> Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>
> Gary,
>
> Thanks for the lead. I spoke with Mr. Hare sp? there this morning.
> He's an 85-year old gentleman and wants me to call back Thursday afternoon
> by which time he says he'll have been able to look through three buildings
> of trailer parts. He's even familiar with the odd shaped curtain track
I'm
> looking for but knows he doesn't have the aluminum water tank fill cap I'm
> also looking for.
>
> Wish me luck,
>
> Glyn
>
>> From: "Gary Ricketts" <gricketts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>>
>> Ross,
>>
>> You and Glynn might try Camper Repair Center in Montevallo, Al at
>> 205-665-2531. He is an Airstream dealer that does mostly salvage.
>>
>> Gary
>
>> From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
>>> A buddy of mine is looking for a left (US driver's side) rear window for
>> his
>>> 68 Caravel (mysteriously broken over the weekend). I've checked my list
> of
>>> restoration resources and my archive of this list and came up empty.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 19:38:42 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] I only need a track and a cap
Tom,
I knew that. I guess my teasing you back worked, yeah!
Hey, did you see my note to you about trying to get some measurements
from your cap that I can take along with my standpipe to a local machinist?
Thanks,
Glyn
> From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 22:31:51 -0400
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] I only need a track and a cap
>
> Just teasing you, ;)
>
> Tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> On Behalf Of Glyn Judson
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:12 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] I only need a track and a cap
>
> Tom,
>
> Ah, nooo, I only need the track and the cap now. I forgot to change the
> subject heading, sorry. : - (
>
> Glyn
>
>> From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
>> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>> Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:58:53 -0400
>> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>> Subject: RE: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>>
>> Glyn,
>>
>> I see the subject line is for a window ... do you need one of those also?
>> Wouldn't you need wishes for luck 3 times then? Once each for a window, a
>> water fill pipe cap and once for the extrusion? I wish you luck 3 times!
>>
>> Tom
>> WBCCI 5303
>>
>>
>> On Behalf Of Glyn Judson
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>>
>> Gary,
>>
>> Thanks for the lead. I spoke with Mr. Hare sp? there this morning.
>> He's an 85-year old gentleman and wants me to call back Thursday afternoon
>> by which time he says he'll have been able to look through three buildings
>> of trailer parts. He's even familiar with the odd shaped curtain track
> I'm
>> looking for but knows he doesn't have the aluminum water tank fill cap I'm
>> also looking for.
>>
>> Wish me luck,
>>
>> Glyn
>>
>>> From: "Gary Ricketts" <gricketts@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
>>>
>>> Ross,
>>>
>>> You and Glynn might try Camper Repair Center in Montevallo, Al at
>>> 205-665-2531. He is an Airstream dealer that does mostly salvage.
>>>
>>> Gary
>>
>>> From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
>>>> A buddy of mine is looking for a left (US driver's side) rear window for
>>> his
>>>> 68 Caravel (mysteriously broken over the weekend). I've checked my list
>> of
>>>> restoration resources and my archive of this list and came up empty.
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 22:11:58 -0600
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Corning windows
What does everyone think about this? I'm curious, because tempered curved
glass replacements can be had, at or below the current "market" value, but
even at that some think it is too much to pay. Yet, vintage owners will
substitute Lexan AR-15 with the special stainless steel trim and the special
SS clips that with shipping and handling end up being just about as
expensive. So, here is the question -- if I replaced all of my Corning
window glass with Lexan would I increase or decrease the value of my
Airstream? Obviously, I think all glass windows enhance the value of an
Airstream and plastic decreases the value, but what do you all think?
Forrest
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #273
*************************
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