The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #272
VAL Digest Tuesday, June 8 2004 Volume 01 : Number 272
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
[VAL] Re: EverPure water filter, take 2
Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
[VAL] Rooster catch
Re: [VAL] Rooster catch
Re: [VAL] Rooster catch
Re: [VAL] Rooster catch
Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
[VAL] trailer identification
Re: [VAL] trailer identification
Re: [VAL] Rear end dragging
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
[VAL] OPD valves for 40 pound tanks
[VAL] grinding wheels and rivet stem removal
[VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
[VAL] Finding Vintage owners that didn't know they were
Re: [VAL] grinding wheels and rivet stem removal
Re: [VAL] Finding Vintage owners that didn't know they were
Re: [VAL] 1977 Airstream 27' -- Kansas
Re: [VAL] grinding wheels and rivet stem removal
[VAL] AS on Times Square
RE: [VAL] AS on Times Square
Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
RE: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
[VAL] Diesel Garage
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Re: [VAL] trailer identification
Re: [VAL] Finding Vintage owners that didn't know they were
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 06:46:21 -0400
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
I do not have a Hensley anymore, I have a Reese. How do I adjust the
hitch? I think you guys mean to lower the bar but that would mean
adjusting by having to unscrew those really tight bolts to move the
bar. I'm not sure I could without a really big guy with huge muscles to
do so!! I would be easy to take the bars off, but they aren't the
problem. The tire holder is welded to the rear bumper and is about 1/2"
lower than the bumper. You should see the groove it carved in the
driveway! Gravel is a good idea but the driveway is solid.
Patti (really appreciating all help!)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 08:14:19 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Patti,
Do you back straight into the place? Can you go in at an angle? You
may find that backing in at an angle will take care of the problem if
possible. Quick question, is this a place in the front of the driveway,
say where water/run off goes down the street? If so, a board may work.
Depending on the size length/width of the "dip" a board or metal could
work. Of course my guess would be you'd want the board/metal the length
plus some of the width of the trailer 9 feet or so. The width would have to
span the dip. What 12 inches?? Do what a temp fix that you can move?
You could have someone cut a piece of metal to size and put in place
with bolts?? Really up to you.
Paul Waddell
WBCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 5:46 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
> I do not have a Hensley anymore, I have a Reese. How do I adjust the
> hitch? I think you guys mean to lower the bar but that would mean
> adjusting by having to unscrew those really tight bolts to move the
> bar. I'm not sure I could without a really big guy with huge muscles to
> do so!! I would be easy to take the bars off, but they aren't the
> problem. The tire holder is welded to the rear bumper and is about 1/2"
> lower than the bumper. You should see the groove it carved in the
> driveway! Gravel is a good idea but the driveway is solid.
>
> Patti (really appreciating all help!)
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 08:05:02 -0500
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: EverPure water filter, take 2
Here's a good link to a site that compares leading filter
manufacturers, cost per gallon, and effectiveness on the most common
contaminants:
<http://www.waterfiltercomparisons.net/WaterFilter_Comparison.cfm>
There is one EverPure model tested, which appears to be comparable to
the QC2 that was standard equip on our A/S.
The bottom line is that some filter types are better at some
contaminants, while others are better at other types. These can be
generally grouped into "chemical" contaminants" and "bacteriological
contaminants." The primary difference being particulate size: chemicals
can't be filtered out simply by passing water through a small enough
filter media. So if you are getting water in rural areas where
bacteriological contamination (such as giardia) is an issue, filtration
requirements are different than they would be in places where
industrial or chemical contamination (such as atrizine in farm areas,
or MTBE, around fuel sources or refineries) are the problem.
For the record, there are very few in the scientific community that
would recommend drinking distilled water on a regular basis.
Distillation removes all trace minerals. Further, it changes the Ph,
which can cause minerals such as calcium to be leached from the bones
and teeth. Re verse Osmosis treated water has similar problems.
Regards,
Chris K.
#8638
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 08:05:56 -0500
From: overlander64 <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Greetings Patti!
I think that the suggestion about hitch "adjustments"
probably refers to what I have to do with my '64 Overlander
in order to get it into my driveway without dragging the
rear bumper supports - - remove the bars that results in
increased dead weight on the hitch and often is just enough
to keep the rear end of the coach from scraping the driveway
upon entry or eixt. If your Flying Cloud has a front
mounted water tank having it full might also help in
tranferring weight forward (and lowering front when the
weight distribution bars are not attached) - - with a
C/K2500 Suburban as a tow vehicle removing the weight
distribution bars with a coach as light as your Flying Cloud
may not produce a significant drop in the tongue height to
raise the rear of your coach enouch to solve your problem.
It sounds like you are having a problem that is the reverse
of mine - - the hitch brackets for the Dual Cam system on my
Minuet drag when entering or exiting my driveway when my tow
vehicle hits the "drainage swell" at the base of the
driveway. The suggestion of my city services manager was to
have a steel grate installed at the foot of the driveway - -
it would be about 24" wide in the case of my driveway and
the width of the driveway - - he suggested that as a
permanent solution that would allow for the required
drainage. Since I only have to navigate the driveway two
more times with the Minuet before I move, I will leave well
enough alone. In my area the same places that sell the
steel culverts that are often placed under the end of the
driveway also sell the "spanner grates" as well.
Have you considered contacting your city services manager to
see if he/she might have suggestions about finding a
long-term solution? In the commmunity where I live, the
city services department has been known to provide
assistance with contouring the balcktop near driveways where
vehicle clearances are a problem due to crowing in the
street-to-driveway approach. I had a much more significant
problem before they recountoured the approaches to my
driveways when the streets were re-sealed two years ago that
a "spanner-grate" wouldn't have solved.
Good luck in finding a solution to your driveway issues!
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400
VORTEC/4.10 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado
Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
> How do I adjust the hitch? I think you guys
> mean to lower the bar but that would mean
> adjusting by having to unscrew those really
> tight bolts to move the bar. I'm not sure I
> could without a really big guy with huge
> muscles to do so!! It would be easy to take
> the bars off, but they aren't the problem. The
> tire holder is welded to the rear bumper and
> is about 1/2" lower than the bumper. You
> should see the groove it carved in the
> driveway! Gravel is a good idea but the
> driveway is solid.
>
> Patti (really appreciating all help!)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 09:33:40 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Patti,
Kevin and I are thinking a like.
Paul Waddell
WDCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "overlander64" <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
> Greetings Patti!
>
> I think that the suggestion about hitch "adjustments"
> probably refers to what I have to do with my '64 Overlander
> in order to get it into my driveway without dragging the
> rear bumper supports - - remove the bars that results in
> increased dead weight on the hitch and often is just enough
> to keep the rear end of the coach from scraping the driveway
> upon entry or eixt. If your Flying Cloud has a front
> mounted water tank having it full might also help in
> tranferring weight forward (and lowering front when the
> weight distribution bars are not attached) - - with a
> C/K2500 Suburban as a tow vehicle removing the weight
> distribution bars with a coach as light as your Flying Cloud
> may not produce a significant drop in the tongue height to
> raise the rear of your coach enouch to solve your problem.
>
> It sounds like you are having a problem that is the reverse
> of mine - - the hitch brackets for the Dual Cam system on my
> Minuet drag when entering or exiting my driveway when my tow
> vehicle hits the "drainage swell" at the base of the
> driveway. The suggestion of my city services manager was to
> have a steel grate installed at the foot of the driveway - -
> it would be about 24" wide in the case of my driveway and
> the width of the driveway - - he suggested that as a
> permanent solution that would allow for the required
> drainage. Since I only have to navigate the driveway two
> more times with the Minuet before I move, I will leave well
> enough alone. In my area the same places that sell the
> steel culverts that are often placed under the end of the
> driveway also sell the "spanner grates" as well.
>
> Have you considered contacting your city services manager to
> see if he/she might have suggestions about finding a
> long-term solution? In the commmunity where I live, the
> city services department has been known to provide
> assistance with contouring the balcktop near driveways where
> vehicle clearances are a problem due to crowing in the
> street-to-driveway approach. I had a much more significant
> problem before they recountoured the approaches to my
> driveways when the streets were re-sealed two years ago that
> a "spanner-grate" wouldn't have solved.
>
> Good luck in finding a solution to your driveway issues!
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin D. Allen
> WBCCI/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359
> 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400
> VORTEC/4.10 Differentials)
> 1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado
> Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
>
> > How do I adjust the hitch? I think you guys
> > mean to lower the bar but that would mean
> > adjusting by having to unscrew those really
> > tight bolts to move the bar. I'm not sure I
> > could without a really big guy with huge
> > muscles to do so!! It would be easy to take
> > the bars off, but they aren't the problem. The
> > tire holder is welded to the rear bumper and
> > is about 1/2" lower than the bumper. You
> > should see the groove it carved in the
> > driveway! Gravel is a good idea but the
> > driveway is solid.
> >
> > Patti (really appreciating all help!)
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 07:48:08 -0600
From: "Earl Peck" <earlpeck@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Rooster catch
Hi All,
On the faq section of the vac home page there is a fix for the mirror over the
sink. It requires the use of what is called a " rooster catch". I have been
unable to locate one of these at my local Home Depot store or my local
hardware store. Does anyone know what these are " officialy" called or what
their "official'" intended purpose may be, or where one may be obtained.
Thanks in advance
Earl in Idaho,
WBCCI 1965
'65 Overlander
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 09:08:01 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tommyjoe@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Rooster catch
I saw one of these in a local RV store the other day. It was labled a
"rooster catch". I didn't pay much attention at the time to what it looked
like. Just the name caught my attention
Do a search on the internet though, and you will find them. A picture of
one is at:
http://www.mobile-mart.com/roostercatch.htm
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Peck" <earlpeck@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 8:48 AM
Subject: [VAL] Rooster catch
> Hi All,
> On the faq section of the vac home page there is a fix for the mirror over
the
> sink. It requires the use of what is called a " rooster catch". I have
been
> unable to locate one of these at my local Home Depot store or my local
> hardware store. Does anyone know what these are " officialy" called or
what
> their "official'" intended purpose may be, or where one may be obtained.
> Thanks in advance
> Earl in Idaho,
> WBCCI 1965
> '65 Overlander
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 10:12:11 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Rooster catch
Earl:
I got one from An AS Dealer for my '73 Center Bath.
Daisy
Earl Peck wrote:
> Hi All,
> On the faq section of the vac home page there is a fix for the mirror over the
> sink. It requires the use of what is called a " rooster catch". I have been
> unable to locate one of these at my local Home Depot store or my local
> hardware store. Does anyone know what these are " officialy" called or what
> their "official'" intended purpose may be, or where one may be obtained.
> Thanks in advance
> Earl in Idaho,
> WBCCI 1965
> '65 Overlander
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 08:24:24 -0600
From: "Earl Peck" <earlpeck@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Rooster catch
Thanks Tom, it's ordered
Earl
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Patterson" <tommyjoe@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Rooster catch
> I saw one of these in a local RV store the other day. It was labled a
> "rooster catch". I didn't pay much attention at the time to what it
looked
> like. Just the name caught my attention
>
> Do a search on the internet though, and you will find them. A picture of
> one is at:
> http://www.mobile-mart.com/roostercatch.htm
>
> -Tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Earl Peck" <earlpeck@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 8:48 AM
> Subject: [VAL] Rooster catch
>
>
> > Hi All,
> > On the faq section of the vac home page there is a fix for the mirror
over
> the
> > sink. It requires the use of what is called a " rooster catch". I have
> been
> > unable to locate one of these at my local Home Depot store or my local
> > hardware store. Does anyone know what these are " officialy" called or
> what
> > their "official'" intended purpose may be, or where one may be obtained.
> > Thanks in advance
> > Earl in Idaho,
> > WBCCI 1965
> > '65 Overlander
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 07:49:00 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <rhightower@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 3:46 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
> I do not have a Hensley anymore, I have a Reese. How do I adjust the
> hitch? I think you guys mean to lower the bar but that would mean
> adjusting by having to unscrew those really tight bolts to move the
> bar. I'm not sure I could without a really big guy with huge muscles to
> do so!! I would be easy to take the bars off, but they aren't the
> problem. The tire holder is welded to the rear bumper and is about 1/2"
> lower than the bumper. You should see the groove it carved in the
> driveway! Gravel is a good idea but the driveway is solid.
>
> Patti (really appreciating all help!)
>
Even with a Reese, or other hitch, you can jack up the hitch to take the
tension off the bars, drop them down a link or two, whatever it takes, raise
the jack up to clear the road, and you'll have a rear-end high situation.
After you've cleared the obstacle, reverse the process. May be a bit time
consuming, but it might save your driveway.
Or, you could just keep doing it as you have, and grind the driveway away
over time :^)
Bob Hightower
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:00:13 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] trailer identification
Hi gang,
At the Homecoming Rally in Jackson Center last week I saw an interesting
Airstream. I was wondering if anyone could decode the serial number for me.
By the liscense plate it appears to be a 1953 model. 13 panel with the small
rectangular tail lights. The serial number appears to be " 0 3091" but
might be "0 5091" The tag lists the LA Calif plant
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 09:16:07 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] trailer identification
Hi Scott:
O-3091 would be a 1953 21' Flying Cloud built at the Ohio (hence the
"O" prefix) plant notwithstanding the Los Angeles address on the serial
number tag. Did the serial number tag also list the Ohio address as
well?
O-5091 would be a 1956 30' Liner or Sovereign of the Road.
Being Ohio built trailers, both would have 13 panel front and rear
end caps.
Fred Coldwell
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> Hi gang,
>
> At the Homecoming Rally in Jackson Center last week I saw an interesting
> Airstream. I was wondering if anyone could decode the serial number for me.
> By the liscense plate it appears to be a 1953 model. 13 panel with the small
> rectangular tail lights. The serial number appears to be " 0 3091" but
> might be "0 5091" The tag lists the LA Calif plant
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 11:58:53 -0400
From: joepatwink@xxxxxxxxxx.net (Joe Winkler)
Subject: Re: [VAL] Rear end dragging
Patti,
It sounds like you are getting lots of good idea. I would really look at building
a bridge to cover your dip. A 2X6 with 2x2 and 2x4 bracing will carry a lot of weight
as long as you are not trying to bridge a 6 foot canyon.
Joe
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:02:17 -0600
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
hey glyn
you might check out this site for your cap. i know of no one making a repro
www.healthy-homes.com
harry
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 8:31 AM
Subject: [VAL] Water fill cap.
> All,
>
> Seeing this yesterday
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50069&item
> =7904256667&rd=1 prompts me to ask if anyone has a spare fill cap for my
> 1969 Caravel or if anyone knows the whereabouts of one.
>
> It's my best guess from having seen a couple that the one for my year
is
> a flat, cast aluminum threaded cap.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Glyn
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 13:15:34 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Patti, Bob Hightower did a better job of describing what I suggested than I
did. The hitch ball height is not changed -- just the tension on the spring
bars is loosened to raise the rear of the trailer and then reset the traile
level after you get down the driveway. Easy to do and fast. It's just a
temporary adjustment.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Hightower" <rhightower@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
>
> Even with a Reese, or other hitch, you can jack up the hitch to take the
> tension off the bars, drop them down a link or two, whatever it takes,
raise
> the jack up to clear the road, and you'll have a rear-end high situation.
> After you've cleared the obstacle, reverse the process. May be a bit time
> consuming, but it might save your driveway.
>
> Or, you could just keep doing it as you have, and grind the driveway away
> over time :^)
>
> Bob Hightower
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:37:05 -0600
From: "Randy Unter" <runter@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] OPD valves for 40 pound tanks
My '73 Sovereign has 40 # aluminum tanks that need OPD retrofitting. What
size valves should they be/where is a reference for size?
Thanks.
Randy Unter
Region 11
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:44:29 -0600
From: "Randy Unter" <runter@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] grinding wheels and rivet stem removal
For a small rivet job, I just use a small file to file off the heads in a
rounded fashion. Hard to tell from the original.
Randy Unter
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 10:52:11 -0700
From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
Subject: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Hello all,
A buddy of mine is looking for a left (US driver's side) rear window for his
68 Caravel (mysteriously broken over the weekend). I've checked my list of
restoration resources and my archive of this list and came up empty. Any
help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Wyn
65 GT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 10:53:56 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Harry,
Thanks for the lead but I should tell you that I've called Tad at least
three times in the last 2-3 weeks and emailed him once seeking help to
locate seven feet of that odd shaped curtain track all of you are sick of
hearing me talk about. Unfortunately he's hasn't responded to my numerous
calls for help about that.
I'll try again with a request for the fill cap but won't hold my breath
on this one either.
Thanks for the considerate return email,
Glyn
> From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:02:17 -0600
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>
> hey glyn
> you might check out this site for your cap. i know of no one making a repro
> www.healthy-homes.com
>
> harry
> 66 safari
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 8:31 AM
> Subject: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>
>
>> All,
>>
>> Seeing this yesterday
>>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50069&item
>> =7904256667&rd=1 prompts me to ask if anyone has a spare fill cap for my
>> 1969 Caravel or if anyone knows the whereabouts of one.
>>
>> It's my best guess from having seen a couple that the one for my year
> is
>> a flat, cast aluminum threaded cap.
>>
>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Glyn
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 13:56:57 -0400
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
I think you could raise the rear of your trailer by just removing the bars
before pulling into your driveway.
This would lower your truck's rear and raise the trailer, (depending on your
truck's suspension of course).
Jim
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 6:46 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
> I do not have a Hensley anymore, I have a Reese. How do I adjust the
> hitch? I think you guys mean to lower the bar but that would mean
> adjusting by having to unscrew those really tight bolts to move the
> bar. I'm not sure I could without a really big guy with huge muscles to
> do so!! I would be easy to take the bars off, but they aren't the
> problem. The tire holder is welded to the rear bumper and is about 1/2"
> lower than the bumper. You should see the groove it carved in the
> driveway! Gravel is a good idea but the driveway is solid.
>
> Patti (really appreciating all help!)
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 13:03:13 -0500
From: "Faith Navarro" <Beshway1@MC2K.com>
Subject: [VAL] Finding Vintage owners that didn't know they were
Hi all,
I am so excited that I can hardly write. We were driving through Roaring
River,in SW
Missouri, one of the favorite stops of Vintage Reunions, and saw an A/S so
naturally went in to get acquainted. They have a 1971 29ft. A/S but didn't
know that it was a Vintage or even what it meant so we were so excited to tell
them what we knew about the privilege of being associated with such a
wonderful group and the bond that just automatically is there. They are
serving as area managers for the month of June so we
came home to get some of our Blue Beret's and some of the digest letters that
I have
printed through the years as they are anxious to know all about it and are
very interested in joining. They are from the Joplin, Mo. area.
We have never been able to find a key for our water tank door in our 1974 so
they trusted us to bring theirs home and it worked. We have tried to get one
for about 3 years now and to refresh your memory, I have written in at first,
trying to sell ours because I have Lupus and didn't think I could go camping.
Then we couldn't find a hitch and Bobby Gill brought us one when he came this
way.
Now, the reason I am writing, the gentleman didn't know that he could
instantly have friends all over the US to assist or answer questions. He
didn't have any real problem
but did want to know if they make a shield of some sort that comes out over
the window above the hitch to shield from bugs etc. At first I thought he was
talking about an awning but I don't think that's it. Do you know what he might
be referring to or if there is one available?
He bought his A/S down around Spring, Tx., he stated, and is already talking
about the Bambi's and others. Just like everyone else, it doesn't take much to
get the A/S fever and I am so thrilled to be able to tell he and his wife
about all of the wonderful folks that I've met and also look forward to
meeting just from reading my computer digest daily.
He was really impressed with the numbers that identify the owners of the A/S.
Please excuse my exuberance but I have waited so very long to be able to even
have a hope of camping in my beloved treasure and now I have a chance to plus
am able to offer someone else the joy and an introduction to all of you
wonderful Vintage Owners.
God Bless you all for the encouragement while I was so sick and the many times
you have shared with me.
Fa
ith and Frank Navarro
- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.699 / Virus Database: 456 - Release Date: 6/4/04
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:22:04 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] grinding wheels and rivet stem removal
> For a small rivet job, I just use a small file to file off the heads in a
> rounded fashion. Hard to tell from the original.
> Randy Unter
I use what has become one of handiest tools I own. A cordless Dremel tool.
With this baby I can (and do) crawl up on top of the trailer and knock off
the stubs (after cutting with a side cutter) using the sanding drum (paper
cylinder with grit on it). The aluminum in an Olympic rivet is pretty soft.
Zips 'em right off. If you are careful, they can look PD good too. I did
70 or so rivets reinstalling an original vent in place of the AC that I
removed. Easiest part of the job.
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 13:31:14 -0500
From: overlander64 <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Finding Vintage owners that didn't know they were
Greetings Faith and Frank!
What you have described is what I have long associated with
owning an Airstream product and being involved in the
WBCCI/VAC/Free Wheelers. It is so good to hear that you are
able to enjoy your coach!
To answer the question regarding the front window cover,
they are called stone guards. The stone guards for the
1970s Airstreams are available, but can be somewhat
expensive. Shipping is often nearly the cost of the stone
guard itself as I belive most are one piece and as such are
a truck-freight only for delivery method - - the newer
coaches and 1970s Argosys with the deep-wrap wing windows
use a three-piece rock guard that can be shipped via UPS in
either two or three separate boxes (mine was shipped in two
for the Minuet). The rock guards are a definite benefit on
coaches with the wing windows as it protects the expensive
to replace wing windows from damage. Any Airstream dealer
should be able to assist in obtaining the proper rock guard.
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400
VORTEC/4.10 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado
Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
> I am so excited that I can hardly write. We were
> driving through Roaring River,in SW Missouri,
> one of the favorite stops of Vintage Reunions,
> and saw an A/S so naturally went in to get
> acquainted. They have a 1971 29ft. A/S but
> didn't know that it was a Vintage or even what
> it meant so we were so excited to tell them
> what we knew about the privilege of being
> associated with such a wonderful group and the
> bond that just automatically is there. They are
> serving as area managers for the month of June
> so we came home to get some of our Blue Beret's
> and some of the digest letters that I have
> printed through the years as they are anxious
> to know all about it and are very interested in
> joining. They are from the Joplin, Mo. area. We
> have never been able to find a key for our
> water tank door in our 1974 so they trusted us
> to bring theirs home and it worked. We have
> tried to get one for about 3 years now and to
> refresh your memory, I have written in at
> first, trying to sell ours because I have Lupus
> and didn't think I could go camping. Then we
> couldn't find a hitch and Bobby Gill brought us
> one when he came this way.
>
> Now, the reason I am writing, the gentleman
> didn't know that he could instantly have
> friends all over the US to assist or answer
> questions. He didn't have any real problem but
> did want to know if they make a shield of some
> sort that comes out over the window above the
> hitch to shield from bugs etc. At first I
> thought he was talking about an awning but I
> don't think that's it. Do you know what he
> might be referring to or if there is one
> available? He bought his A/S down around
> Spring, Tx., he stated, and is already talking
> about the Bambi's and others. Just like
> everyone else, it doesn't take much to get the
> A/S fever and I am so thrilled to be able to
> tell he and his wife about all of the wonderful
> folks that I've met and also look forward to
> meeting just from reading my computer digest
> daily. He was really impressed with the
> numbers that identify the owners of the A/S.
>
> Please excuse my exuberance but I have waited
> so very long to be able to even have a hope of
> camping in my beloved treasure and now I have a
> chance to plus am able to offer someone else the
> joy and an introduction to all of you wonderful
> Vintage Owners. God Bless you all for the
> encouragement while I was so sick and the many
> times you have shared with me.
>
> Fa ith and Frank Navarro
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 14:47:56 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1977 Airstream 27' -- Kansas
OK Tom,
My phone number is 434 454 6127; however, I'll be out of town on 8th and 9th
of this month. I have an answer machine that requires LOUD conversation.
If I'm not in, ask him to leave a message. Lots of thanks,
Regards, Joy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 9:19 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] 1977 Airstream 27' -- Kansas
> The guy doesn't do email, he stopped at the guy's house that I'm picking
up
> Airstream parts from. If you want to give me your phone number I put him
in
> touch with you.
>
> Tom
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 14:28:16 -0500
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] grinding wheels and rivet stem removal
Just my opinion, but if you expect to be an Airstream owner for a long
time, the cost of the rivet burnisher fades from memory, but the
satisfaction over the "perfect head" on the replacement rivets is
experienced over and over... I bought the rivet shaver a few years ago and
I thought it was less than the $180 on AirstreamDreams, but like I say the
cost seems to fade from memory.... If you don't like tools, or can't stand
carrying them around with you when you travel,, stick to the nail file...
The heads of the rivets will not be "perfect" but think of the money you
saved.. ( the burnishing process also seals the head but not much water
can get in there anyway )
I had the additional satisfaction of being able to loan the tool to the
Airstream mechanic that was working on a door lock in the trailer next to
me while we waited for the International to start up in South Dakota a few
years ago.... He loaned me about a half box of rivets that I am still
carrying around...
If you can see your way clear to add the shaver to your tool kit, I am sure
AirstreamDreams or some other rivet supplier will appreciate the
business.... and you will enjoy it's use for many years to come... I expect
you will need a new drill motor before you need a new shaver....
Remember, in the end, the person with the most toys wins....
Jim
At 01:22 PM 6/7/2004, you wrote:
> > For a small rivet job, I just use a small file to file off the heads in a
> > rounded fashion. Hard to tell from the original.
> > Randy Unter
>
>I use what has become one of handiest tools I own. A cordless Dremel tool.
>With this baby I can (and do) crawl up on top of the trailer and knock off
>the stubs (after cutting with a side cutter) using the sanding drum (paper
>cylinder with grit on it). The aluminum in an Olympic rivet is pretty soft.
>Zips 'em right off. If you are careful, they can look PD good too. I did
>70 or so rivets reinstalling an original vent in place of the AC that I
>removed. Easiest part of the job.
>
>GQ '67 Safari
>4082 in CA
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 15:57:49 -0400
From: "Nick Novia" <nicholas_s_novia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] AS on Times Square
Anyone know what's going on at Times Square? They've hoisted an Airstream
high above the Square...for some type of promotion!
Nick
'68 Safari
#2577
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 13:17:23 -0700
From: "Tim S." <safari_tim@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] AS on Times Square
I wonder if it has anything to do with the Simple Life 2 show starting next
week....
- -Tim
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of Nick Novia
Anyone know what's going on at Times Square? They've hoisted an Airstream
high above the Square...for some type of promotion!
Nick
'68 Safari
#2577
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 19:12:05 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
Wyn, the original tempered Corning Glass curved windows are not available
except from salvage 1966-1968 Airstreams and are pricy if you can ever find
one. An option is to use a special non-yellowing scratch resistance plastic.
There was a thread on here a couple of weeks ago about having some curved
glass replacement windows special made for our group. You might check the
archives for more details.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 1:52 PM
Subject: [VAL] window for 68 Caravel
> Hello all,
> A buddy of mine is looking for a left (US driver's side) rear window for
his
> 68 Caravel (mysteriously broken over the weekend). I've checked my list of
> restoration resources and my archive of this list and came up empty. Any
> help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Wyn
> 65 GT
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 21:32:32 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
She could tow that Airstream without any bars. That Suburban wouldn't drop
1/4 of an inch. ;) She "could" put some wheels on the rear end of the
trailer for times like these -- unless it would take away from the integrity
of the trailer.
What about some welded skid plates that would be meant to be "abused"? That
would safe her trailer from wear and take the abuse "gently" wouldn't it?
If she were to have some "steps" leading from the street level up to the top
of the sidewalk she drives across -- wouldn't that work? What about using
the orange colored squares in a "beveled stack"? Those would be the orange
squares a lot of us use to level or trailers on a site.
Patti? Do you own any of the orange leveling squares? Yet? ;) If worst
came to worst couldn't you have a wide 2" x 12" board about 8 feet long onto
which you have a 2" x 6", 8 foot board which has a 2" x 4", 8 foot board on
top of it? This would give you 3 steps upward to the sidewalk for a total
of almost a 6" rise by 8 feet wide. You could have these boards screwed
together and glued for an extra measure of safety so they'd never slip out
from under each other. If you added a couple of wide poly wheeled fixed
casters on the "top" side of this "step" you could easily transport this
"step" while it is upside down to and from your back patio all by yourself.
To try and drag or carry 3 boards of this size would be difficult I think
for you if it didn't have large rolling wheels on one end. This of a
wheelbarrow and how much weight you can push or pull because of the wheel.
Sort of the same thing here but with 2 wheels instead of one.
Tom
Tom
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Jim Stewart
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 1:57 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
I think you could raise the rear of your trailer by just removing the bars
before pulling into your driveway.
This would lower your truck's rear and raise the trailer, (depending on your
truck's suspension of course).
Jim
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 6:46 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
> I do not have a Hensley anymore, I have a Reese. How do I adjust the
> hitch? I think you guys mean to lower the bar but that would mean
> adjusting by having to unscrew those really tight bolts to move the
> bar. I'm not sure I could without a really big guy with huge muscles to
> do so!! I would be easy to take the bars off, but they aren't the
> problem. The tire holder is welded to the rear bumper and is about 1/2"
> lower than the bumper. You should see the groove it carved in the
> driveway! Gravel is a good idea but the driveway is solid.
>
> Patti (really appreciating all help!)
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 21:36:01 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Glyn,
If you had the dimensions of this aluminum cap and the thread pitch would
you be willing to have a machine shop make you one? That should be easy
enough to get don't you think? You would need to find a way to lock the cap
on in place on the trailer. For mine I built a small aluminum "box" with a
beveled lid which has a tiny hasp for the Master lock. I installed my "box"
in pieces so that all the mounting fasteners are hidden inside the "box".
Tom
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Harry,
Thanks for the lead but I should tell you that I've called Tad at least
three times in the last 2-3 weeks and emailed him once seeking help to
locate seven feet of that odd shaped curtain track all of you are sick of
hearing me talk about. Unfortunately he's hasn't responded to my numerous
calls for help about that.
I'll try again with a request for the fill cap but won't hold my breath
on this one either.
Thanks for the considerate return email,
Glyn
> From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>
> hey glyn
> you might check out this site for your cap. i know of no one making a
repro
> www.healthy-homes.com
>
> harry
> 66 safari
> Subject: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>
>
>> All,
>>
>> Seeing this yesterday
>>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50069&item
>> =7904256667&rd=1 prompts me to ask if anyone has a spare fill cap for my
>> 1969 Caravel or if anyone knows the whereabouts of one.
>>
>> It's my best guess from having seen a couple that the one for my year
> is
>> a flat, cast aluminum threaded cap.
>>
>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Glyn
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 21:44:12 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Diesel Garage
Hi Gang,
Every so often my diesel Suburban needs a REAL mechanic. I've found
another one. If you enter such data on your Palm Pilot, here it is.
Sunnyside Garage is located in Upstate New York near the Massachusetts
border off Exit 11 of Interstate 90 (west of Albany, NY). Phone number
is 518.766.3781.
At Exit 11, go north on route 9 to #1200 Route 9. It's a blue building
on the right. The garage is large enough to easily accommodate 10
Airstreams with their tow vehicles.
This is a serious garage that specializes in towing and repairing ANY
size truck with a diesel engine in it. They are also fully capable of
repairing all other components of a tow vehicle. For trucks weighing
less than 10,000 pounds, the hourly rate for mechanical work is $50.
The garage is located on a very large parcel of level land. With a
polite request, I believe they would allow boondock parking while the
tow truck is being repaired. The customer waiting room is modern,
clean, comfortable and has bathroom facilities.
Who knows, Sunnyside Garage might be in the right place at the right
time during an east west run (I-90) between Massachusetts and New York
or during a north south run (I-87 & I-95) between Montreal and New York
City.
Terry
1987 GMC Suburban
1967 22' Airstream Safari
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 20:11:53 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Is that a V thread or an acme thread? I've not had my water cap off my
'68 Caravel in several years because I've been traveling dry (with it
winterized all the time) and I don't remember. I do recall that its
prone to sticking when not used regularly. I'm thinking it took more
than a strap wrench to move it the last time.
I'd guess half an hour machining time on a good lathe, perhaps an hour
on my small lathe, knurling on the small lathe is tough to do well.
Perhaps its a product I could sell if I had figured out what the
dimensions are and had a suitable stock of aluminum bar.
Some had a Schrader valve in the middle for using an air hose to
pressurize the water tank after filling, more rapid than using the
internal compressor. Some had an attachment for a chain (ball chain
probably wasn't strong enough to keep from loosing the cap when it came
loose though) at the middle.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 20:11:22 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Rear end dragging
Why make it 8' long? Is that wide enough to not miss one end part of the
time. Why not make two pads, each a foot wide and position them
precisely just before the trailer wheels get to the dip? The short
stacks would be a whole lot handier to move though a big feature of the
orange plastic blocks is that they are much lighter than wood and so
much easier to handle.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 22:13:36 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] trailer identification
Thanks Fred,
It must of been the 3091, not the 5091 as it was not anywhere near 30 feet.
No the tag did not list Jackson Center Ohio, just LA. It has an interesting
sleeping arrangement. Across the rear are bunk beds (singles). In the front
is an extra deep dinette that would sit 6. Above the dinette is a bunk as
well. I've heard that Dickie Riegal (sp?) the president of Airstream has a
53 Flying Cloud, so I wonder if it is his.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
> O-3091 would be a 1953 21' Flying Cloud built at the Ohio (hence the
> "O" prefix) plant notwithstanding the Los Angeles address on the serial
> number tag. Did the serial number tag also list the Ohio address as
> well?
>
> O-5091 would be a 1956 30' Liner or Sovereign of the Road.
>
> Being Ohio built trailers, both would have 13 panel front and rear
> end caps.
>
> Fred Coldwell
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 22:17:14 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Finding Vintage owners that didn't know they were
You go, girl ! glad to hear you are getting out and about and being a
Vintage Missionary !
Daisy
Faith Navarro wrote:
> Hi all,
> I am so excited that I can hardly write. We were driving through Roaring
> River,in SW
> Missouri, one of the favorite stops of Vintage Reunions, and saw an A/S so
> naturally went in to get acquainted.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 21:40:08 -0600
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Glyn,
Is this what you are looking for:
http://www.cornerhardware.com/item_222251/Plumbing/Water-Gas-Pipe-Fittings/
Galvanized-Iron-Pipe-Fittings/Florite2-Galvanized-Pipe-Cap.html ?
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 21:33:25 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
Forrest,
Well, not exactly. I'd like to hold out for an original if I knew what
I were looking for.
I just went out to the Caravel ('69 California built) and brought the
current cap in. It's a dome shaped, 1 1/4" PVC end cap that someone's added
a tapped Phillips screw to, smack in the top and then painted with aluminum
paint. All in all, it don't look any too bad. It's screwed to a seemingly
original safety chain that attaches to the inlet pipe flange at the outer
skin. The cap has NSF threads and it cross threads within a bit more than
one full revolution so the threads on the inlet pipe seem to be different.
A quick glance in the night darkness suggests that the pipe threads are
farther apart than the ones in the cap.
Gerald help, what do I have? Is the safety chain an after market add-on
or is this the way they came?
Tom, I could well have one made if I could get my hands on an original
to pattern a new one on.
Thanks all for your thoughts and suggestions,
Glyn
> From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 21:40:08 -0600
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Water fill cap.
>
> Glyn,
>
> Is this what you are looking for:
>
http://www.cornerhardware.com/item_222251/Plumbing/Water-Gas-Pipe-Fittings/Gal
> vanized-Iron-Pipe-Fittings/Florite2-Galvanized-Pipe-Cap.html ?
>
> Forrest
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #272
*************************
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