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VAL Digest V1 #267



VAL Digest           Thursday, June 3 2004           Volume 01 : Number 267




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] 1968  wheels
[VAL] dump valve handle?
Re: [VAL] dump valve handle?
Re: [VAL] 1968  wheels
Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting: Fuzzy plates
Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  OPD valves for 30 pound tanks
Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  OPD valves for 30 pound tanks
[VAL] David Pfeffer/Beaverton/IBM is out of the office.
[VAL] A/C Help
RE: [VAL] A/C Help
[VAL] Re: Tricky shorts
[VAL] Re: Please, people
[VAL] Increasing ride height
[VAL] 14.5" tires, sagging springs, zerking the spring bolts
[VAL] Belly skin patching
Re: [VAL] Re: Please, people
Re: [VAL] black tank valve gate
Re: [VAL] Increasing ride height
Re: [VAL] A/C Help

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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 09:02:12 EDT
From: Airstream24@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] 1968  wheels

I have a chance to buy a 1968 twin axle ,not sure of the model yet with no 
wheels .any cross reference that might fit or where i can buy some used wheels  
to get it home would be appreciated ,i think its a 31 foot.  Thanks dean

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 08:34:27 -0500
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] dump valve handle?

Good morning-
Anyone know where I can procure a new handle for a dump valve on my 
1979 International? The old one was brittle, the valve was sticky, and, 
well, bad things happen when I try to force things. .
Thanks,

Chris K
#8638 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 08:35:09 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <rhightower@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] dump valve handle?

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Koehn" <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 6:34 AM
Subject: [VAL] dump valve handle?


> Good morning-
> Anyone know where I can procure a new handle for a dump valve on my
> 1979 International? The old one was brittle, the valve was sticky, and,
> well, bad things happen when I try to force things. .
> Thanks,
>
> Chris K
> #8638

I had the same problem, then the handle broke. I went to CW and got a new
one, out of cast aluminum or somesuch, and then threaded the rod for the
valve, screwed the handle on, and was done. Much sturdier than the original
plastic one.

Bob Hightower
WBCCI 11365

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2004 10:02:40 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1968  wheels

Wheels are a pain. Airstream wheel wells fit closely. See page 109 on my
web page (http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com) for some the 1968
Airstream specifications. You'll need wheels with an adequate load
rating for the full trailer weight (divided by 4), and adequate tires.
I'm liking Titan radial trailer tires.

Wheel offset is a particular requirement, if its wrong the tire will rub
on the frame of the wheel well.

Modern radial tires don't swell like bias ply tires so give greater
wheel well clearance for the same tire size. Tire load ratings depend on
tire cross section, diameter, and mostly on pressure. Maximum pressure
depends on the fabric strength built into the tire.

Your best bet is to find someone with a similar trailer (my Caravel uses
different tires and wheels) who can measure the offset of their wheels,
plus the bolt circle and the center hole size. All those need to fit.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:38:35 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting: Fuzzy plates

     All,
>
     Today I have ten brand new, never installed fuzzy plates
http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/34727-scrfuzzyplate.jpg
 to offer to someone on the list.

     If you really need these parts for your own needs and don't just
 want them to resell or give to a friend or relative, agree to pay the
 postage and you're the first to respond, I'll ship them to you right away.

    By the way, they are listed in the Inland RV catalog as fitting 1969
Airstreams.  Let me tell you right now, I have a 1969 caravel and they don't
fit, so I don't know if they'll fit yours.  They're 10 3/8" X 1 1/4" long
overall and the fuzzy part is 8 3/4" X 1/2".

    I bought them from Inland RV and didn't get around to trying them until
a few weeks after they arrived.  When they didn't fit, I tried to return
them for the right stuff and was told by the woman on the phone that the
magic 10 day grace period had expired so I was SOL.  That didn't make me a
very happy camper especially in light of the fact that all I wanted to do
was exchange them for more stuff.  Needless to say, I'm not inspired to ever
again buy.............well, never mind.

    My bitter loss is your sweet gain IF you can really use them.

     Good luck,

     Glyn Judson
     1969 Caravel #508
     Santa Monica CA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 10:54:15 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  OPD valves for 30 pound tanks

>     Gary R,
> 
>     Sorry about that, they're for steel tanks but sadly have already been
> spoken for by Gary Quamen.  Eek, I hope Gary's tanks are steel, are they
> Gary?  
> 

You bet, Glyn.  And thanks again.

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2004 11:37:54 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  OPD valves for 30 pound tanks

    Gary,

    I'm headed for the Post Office in about 30 minutes with your valves.

    Enjoy,

    Glyn

> From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 10:54:15 -0700
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  OPD valves for 30 pound tanks
> 
>> Gary R,
>> 
>> Sorry about that, they're for steel tanks but sadly have already been
>> spoken for by Gary Quamen.  Eek, I hope Gary's tanks are steel, are they
>> Gary?  
>> 
> 
> You bet, Glyn.  And thanks again.
> 
> GQ '67 Safari
> 4082 in CA
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 17:07:09 -0600
From: David Pfeffer <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
Subject: [VAL] David Pfeffer/Beaverton/IBM is out of the office.

I will be out of the office starting  05/28/2004 and will not return until
06/14/2004.

I will be out of the office starting 06/01 returning on 06/14.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 19:10:32 -0400
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] A/C Help

I have the original A/C in my '68 Airstream.   I just replaced the blower
motor as it died.  I really hadn't used the A/C in Utah, but now that I'm in
Florida, I want to make sure it works right.  After changing the motor, the
unit now runs constantly and does not respond to the thermostat.  If I leave
it on overnight, the coils inside the trailer frost up and I start to get a
lot of condensation on the bottom of the unit.  Gets everything wet and
doesn't cool that well.  Did I mess something up with the blower motor, or
do I have another problem that was there all along?
TIA
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 19:27:34 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] A/C Help

Pete,

Are you positive that the thermostat works correctly?  Air conditioners have
an expansion valve that works the thermostat.  When the system is working
right the thermostat tells the compressor when to come on, how long freon
should be pumped through the expansion valve, etc.

Have you checked the freon pressures on both the high and low sides of the
compressor?  This may surprise you but an air conditioner that is just a
little low on freon will continue to blow cold air; and a unit that has too
much freon will not cool at all.  That might not make total sense to you but
the reason is that the freon has to be able to expand and in doing so it
cools the evaporator through which the fan blows incoming air.  If there is
too much cooling (as in your case it seems) the water that is built up on
the coils of the evaporator will actually freeze causing even more problems
with drainage, air movement, etc.

If your unit is cooling that's a plus.  If the thermostat IS also working
that's another plus.  If the freon levels are what they should be that's
another plus.  And you've already replaced the blower motor which added to
the plus side of the column.

All in all, to me it "sounds like" the thermostat is having a hard time and
may be "stuck" on the cold setting and/or in addition to that the freon
level may be low.  Remember, lower volume of freon will still cool somewhat
while too much freon will not cool much at all due to the fact that there is
not room in the system for it to expand like it should.

When you find out what the real problem is please let me at least know what
you did to fix this.  

Those are my best guesses. ;)

Tom
WBCCI 5303




On Behalf Of Peter Ryner
Subject: [VAL] A/C Help

I have the original A/C in my '68 Airstream.   I just replaced the blower
motor as it died.  I really hadn't used the A/C in Utah, but now that I'm in
Florida, I want to make sure it works right.  After changing the motor, the
unit now runs constantly and does not respond to the thermostat.  If I leave
it on overnight, the coils inside the trailer frost up and I start to get a
lot of condensation on the bottom of the unit.  Gets everything wet and
doesn't cool that well.  Did I mess something up with the blower motor, or
do I have another problem that was there all along?
TIA
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 10:58:33 -0700
From: "Al G." <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Tricky shorts

This type of short is most likely with bulbs that have an almost circular
filament. If the filament breaks near one end and the short piece falls
across to the support that supplies power to the other end of the
filament the short piece of filament has so little resistance that it
pops the breaker. It likely is vaporized while it is popping the breaker,
so the "evidence" may disappear.

Bulbs that have only two filament supports, both of which are also the
power supply wires to the filament, cannot have a loose end of a filament
fall across to the other side - it isn't long enough.
Unfortunately the bulbs most suited to RV use have multiple supports,
minimizing filament breakage due to vibration, which can occur even to a
cold filament (the 120V bulbs are of course not on during travel). 
"Rough Service" bulbs are the strongest example of this type of
construction.
All bulbs will eventually suffer a broken filament when they burn out, so
this fault can happen to even a "Rough Service" bulb.

Perhaps this fault is more common than one might think as I have had it
happen several times, not to 120V bulbs in an RV but to bulbs in a house.

All loads in houses and RVs and other vehicles are connected in parallel.
They all are supplied the same voltage. If one fails the others stay
energized unless a fault causes a breaker or fuse to blow. 
Convenience outlets and light fixtures are wired from one to the next in
a given circuit. That's why every receptacle has two screws on each side
(never use the push-in sockets on the back of a receptacle in RV
service). From the breaker the wires go to the first receptacle or light
fixture, then to the next in the same circuit. With light fixtures the
wire nuts are used to connect three wire ends each, one from the breaker
or the fixture ahead of it, one to the next fixture in the circuit, and
one to the fixture itself or to its wall switch. The last fixture or
receptacle in the circuit of course has no wires going on to another.

Al

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 11:10:32 -0700
From: "Al G." <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Please, people

Please stop the personal slashes. One does not have to have a sense of
humor, or the same sense of humor as others, to contribute to this list.
We're supposed to be discussing (mostly) Airstream travel trailers and
motor homes. A little about RVing experiences is OK, especially if it
relates to features or problems with AS RVs, but there are other
discussion groups that specialize in such.
Thanks.
Al

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 13:02:13 -0700
From: "Al G." <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Increasing ride height

Simply raising the trailer body/frame above the axle will not necessarily
prevent the tires from striking the wheel houses. If the tires ever
strike the wheel houses, the bump stops should be increased in thickness
to prevent any contact between the tires and the wheel houses, and to
match any increase in tire outside diameter or contact between the tires
and wheelhouses may occur.

The mechanic across the street related an instance of a customer
complaining that his car's trunk was filling with water. Upon examination
he found that the rear tires had worn through the wheelhouses and had
been throwing water and mud into the trunk.
Al

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 11:57:31 -0700
From: "Al G." <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] 14.5" tires, sagging springs, zerking the spring bolts

14.5" tires are readily available. They are mobile home/manufactured home
tires. Most any tire dealer can get them, and there are dealers in
recycled mobile home axles and tires.
I had a utility trailer made from a mobile home frame and it had 3 axles
of these tires on the doughnut rims they use. The tires are bias ply,mine
were  load ranges "H" and "L", 100 psi. New ones 2 years ago were $75
each. Good used ones with doughnut rims were $25 each.
These tires come in 7.00 x 14.5 and 8.00 x 14.5.
I still have one utility trailer with an old mobile home axle and it has
a pair of the 14.5" tires.
Somewhere I have read that doughnut rims that fit the same wheels are
available in 15".

The brake drum/wheel centers of mobile home type are not balanced. An
out-of-balance wheel with the kind of loading a mobile home puts on the
tires doesn't "hop". I don't know about the particular ones used on your
AS. The doughnut rims won't mount on most wheel balancers.

On spring sag - If your leaf springs are in overall good condition all
you may need is a new master leaf (the one with the mounting eyes in its
ends). Take the trailer to a good spring service, such as Nashville
Spring service in Nashville, Tennessee and they can do whatever is
needed.
You may be able to find suitable entire new spring assemblies at spring,
trailer and axle suppliers for less than having leaves made.
Don't install longer shackles. This is only a stopgap fix. I've seen
cars, back when cars had leaf springs in the rear, that had shackles that
nearly touched the pavement.

I noticed an annoying squeak on one of my trailers and traced it to a
spring eye/bolt.  A shot of grease every few years keeps the annoying
squeaking away.
Previously I drilled the equalizer bolts, the ones that get the most
movement, and installed zerks, on my flat bed utility trailer. If you do
this it requires chucking the bolt in a lathe and drilling it to get the
hole in the center of the bolt. Drill from the head end, not thru the
threaded end. Only a very small hole is needed, the smallest diameter you
can get a bit long enough to reach the center of the bolt, maybe 1/8"
Counterbore the outer part of the hole just deep enough for the zerk. If
you get drive-in zerks you won't have to tap the hole. Then cross drill
thru the center of the bolt to connect the center hole to the outside of
the bolt.
On my '52 Spartanette every spring bolt is equipped with a zerk fitting
from original and is drilled to the center.

All those who have rubber axles, don't go looking for spring bolts :-)
Al

> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sun, 9 May 2004 06:12:06 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Scott Anthony <seaaudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] need a raise...
> 
> I have a '57 Caravanner that we think rolled at one point in it's life.
 I've had it for a couple of years
> and am trying to sort out some issues with the axle and tire size.
> 
> The wheels that came with it are 14.5 inches (can't find a 3rd for a
spare) and the trailer is very low. 
> I have tires on it now with an outside diameter of 26 3/4 inches.  I
can't possibly go any larger; the tire only has one inch clearance in the
front of the wheel well, 2 in back.
> 
............................................................

> What I'd like to know is if it's possible to put longer "straps" on the
"springs" (using quotes because
> I don't know proper names) and gain more height. I only have maybe 3.5
to 4 inches clearance from the bottom of the axle now.  More height would
allow me a 15 inch wheel and a 28.1 inch diameter Marathon.
> 
..............................................................
> 
> So can I extend this "strap" 2 or 3 inches?  Or is there a better way?
> 
> Scott
> 
> ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 11:21:48 -0700
From: "Al G." <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Belly skin patching

Why should belly skin repairs require sealing? On trailers I have seen
pop rivets, not solid, are used to fasten the belly skin to the framing,
and sealing is used only where the wheels throw water and slop onto the
skin joints.
When using pop rivets, what does sealer in the rivet holes accomplish?
Prevent corrosion between the rivet and the sheet metal?
Al

> Steve,
> 
....................................

>  You will need to seal the inside edge of the patch plus you will need
to put sealant into the drilled rivet holes you make prior to placing the
pop rivets in your repair.
> 
.........................................
> 
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 21:58:17 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tommyjoe@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Please, people

Al,
You are not a moderator, and the moderators do not need your help.  Please
refrain from futher suggestions as to how others are to post on this list.
The moderators will take care of that matter.

The last person who felt the need to tell others how to post is no longer a
member of the list.

- -Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Al G." <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2004 1:10 PM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Please, people


> Please stop the personal slashes. One does not have to have a sense of
> humor, or the same sense of humor as others, to contribute to this list.
> We're supposed to be discussing (mostly) Airstream travel trailers and
> motor homes. A little about RVing experiences is OK, especially if it
> relates to features or problems with AS RVs, but there are other
> discussion groups that specialize in such.
> Thanks.
> Al
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2004 23:22:50 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] black tank valve gate

 Aw shucks , Gary , I`m sorry to hear the gaskets didnt work out . Cause I
was waiting to hear of your success and then get some for mine ! I guess the
fix is to grind out the old brass one and glass in a new plastic fitting and
go new from there . I dont know the part numbers ,but I`m soon to find out
because the time is coming to put mine back in . The old hold down screws on
the top fitting (for the toilet ) are snapped on mine and someone has
screwed a plastic one like for a house on top of the fiberglass shroud I`m
hoping that fix will be ok , but I suppose I should grind that out too while
the tank is out . Funny how they put the screws thru that shroud and glassed
the thing in under it , your kinda scewed when they break off . Rust of 41
years wasnt planned on I suppose .
    Sounds like a nice weekend ....
Chris 63 flyng cloud

Gary wrote:

> I have asked about this subject before only more related to rebuilding
> and replacing seals on the existing brass valve gate on my black tank.
> Well, it seems to be leaking after the second clear water holding test.
> >> An all new valve is starting to sound like the
> safest way to hit the road for the first time. I still think the brass
> valve has the possibility to be rebuild, but maybe it is just an old
> style part that has seen better days.
> Hopefully this is a common fix on a high wear part that many list
> members have dealt with and can offer some suggestions on the best fix.
> Thanks,
> Gary Campbell
> 62' Safari double
> Portland, Maine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2004 21:43:49 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Increasing ride height

Changing from bias ply to radial tires goes a long ways in increasing
tire to wheel well clearance. Radial tires don't swell up nearly as much
as bias ply tires. I found the bias ply tires on my Caravel had about a
1/4" clearance to the front of the wheel well. Putting on similar sized
and load rated radial tires, I now have nearly an inch at the same
place.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2004 22:36:25 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] A/C Help

The blower motor could be running backwards or the fan blades be turned
around so the convex side is pushing instead of the more effective
concave side. There could easily be problems in the refrigerant levels,
pressures and that part of the system.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #267
*************************


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