The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #265
VAL Digest Tuesday, June 1 2004 Volume 01 : Number 265
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstreams
[VAL] RE: 1948 AS for sale
[VAL] corning glass
Re: [VAL] Fw: Ltr. From a Concerned citizen - moderator
Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
[VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
RE: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
RE: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
RE: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
[VAL] Request from writer
Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
RE: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Re: Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
[VAL] black tank valve gate
Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
[VAL] http://www.airstreamsites.com/best-sites/out.php?id=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.airstreamforums.com%2Fforums&cat=1
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Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 23:30:28 -0600
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstreams
Hi Chuck & Lynn,
For the most part '66-'68 have curved Corning glass windows, except the
front and back windows. The glass there is flat, but still needs to be
tempered glass. Any number of glass companies will make flat tempered glass
to size, but few are willing to make curved tempered glass to match the OEM
specifications. It is possible that some very early production '66
Airstreams were made with '65 design windows. Prior to '66 window glass was
flat, and was just the same type of glass you can get from any hardware
store. After '65 Airstream windows fit flush to the contour of the body, and
are curved, but from '69 to the present the windows also had radius corners
and the glass is enclosed all around with a frame. '66 through '68 are
frameless, rectangular, and curved. Made originally by Corning, the glass is
thin, flexible (to a point) but strong - a real space age, let's go to the
Moon type of material. Many think it is a cool looking window. When it's
open, it is visually unobtrusive, almost like it is not there, but as cool
as that may seem it is also a drawback - it is easy to walk into (ouch!) -
and since it hasn't been made in a long time it is hard to find glass
replacement. Up to now the only choice has been to replace with plastic or
salvaged pieces.
Forrest
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <SHMossLanding@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2004 8:51 PM
Subject: [VAL] 1967 Airstreams
> Do all the 1966-1968 Airstreams have curved Corning frameless windows. I
was
> told on a 1967 Model, that the window glass was just plain flat glass. Is
> this a true statement?
>
> Thanks, Chuck & Lynn
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 14:48:34 +0100
From: "John Schubert" <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] RE: 1948 AS for sale
The ad was again in yesterdays Sun. KC Star listing a 1948 16 ft. AS
for sale. One owner $7,000/obo. 913-782-4210.
John
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 10:09:53 -0400
From: "Juan Martinez" <martinezj@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.fl.us>
Subject: [VAL] corning glass
I would be interested in the Corning glass for my
1966 Trade wind. I'm looking to replace the rear flat window.
thanks,
Juan
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 09:17:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Fw: Ltr. From a Concerned citizen - moderator
off topic - inappropriate post.
Toby Folwick
VAList Moderator.
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 14:49:54 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Hey Tom:
Did the avocado green paint work out? The reason I asked is that the
lady across the street just moved to Kansas and I inherited 2 Weber
kettle bbq'ers from her and one is avocado green (the other one is
black). The green one has a couple of dings on the top and a pretty
fair accumulation of gunk from more cooking that cleaning but otherwise
in good shape. It's just what you need to go with your trailer decor!!
Actually, I did decide to go ahead and take it because I figured some
Airstreamer probably would like it - goes great with the pink flamingo
birds.
My rebuild is on the back porch where it extends behind the carport
and it just barely fits under the roof - so I haven't been able to test
my vent/stove cooking yet since there's not enough air on top of the
trailer - I bet I could set the roof on fire if I tried so I'm waiting
till we haul her out and have the big unveiling.
I wonder if instead of painting the vent a hood if you removed the
paint that's on it and buff it with a Scotch Brite pad would it look
like stainless steel? I took the original vent/dome off my trailer (14"
x 14") and put in the Fantastic Fan and it came with a seal and bezel
trim that fits just great - I haven't had it in the rain yet though.
Hope it doesn't leak.
Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 14:52:22 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
I had a power jack put on the Bubble but for some reason which I need
to follow up on, the guy said that it won't work with the wheel on it,
it has to have the little jack stand at the bottom. So how am I
supposed to push my trailer around? I sure don't need another dang
gadget (separate little trailer mover thing.).
Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 14:55:37 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Oops - I omitted too much stuff from Tom Birdsong's message to which I
replied about the avocado green paint and it probably confused other
listers - it was not addressed to Tom Patterson except as the web guy.
Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 18:13:53 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Joann,
If you have a wheel extending out from the bottom of the jack "tube" for
lack of a better word, you could very well rip it off when you hit a dip in
the road, etc.
If you would like to add a wheel to the bottom of the jack "tube" I'd
suggest that you purchase one that is made for the task and is designed to
either go on the outside or the inside of the jack "tube" itself. As long
as you have a very strong caster wheel that pivots 360 degrees, has a
ball-bearing plate on top of which is welded a short section of steel tubing
it will be fine to use as you'd like. This short section of steel tubing on
top of the ball-bearing caster plate needs to have a hole drilled through it
horizontally so that you can attach a pin with an attached wire lock that
just swings over the end of the pin. If you visualize the letter 'D' it
would look like that; the straight line of the letter 'D' is the pin and the
half-round portion of the letter 'D' would be the spring wire that flips
over the end of the pin, locking it in place which keeps the rotating caster
wheel on the end of the jack "tube".
For this job I'd prefer a wheel made out of really tough plastic such as
polyurethane rather than plain old rubber. The poly wheel will not mark
surfaces and it will hold up much better over time.
You can find stuff like this at Tractor Supply Company, Northern Tools, etc.
Most likely you will have to have a small custom welding job done for you
once you find out the diameter of the jack "tube". Then you will know by
what you can find at the store whether you need to have a part welded to the
outside or the inside of the rotating steel caster wheel plate.
Simple? ;))
Tom
On Behalf Of Joann Wheatley
Subject: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
I had a power jack put on the Bubble but for some reason which I need
to follow up on, the guy said that it won't work with the wheel on it,
it has to have the little jack stand at the bottom. So how am I
supposed to push my trailer around? I sure don't need another dang
gadget (separate little trailer mover thing.).
Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 18:18:19 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Joann,
How about sending me some pictures of your 'new' grills and Airstream
together?
Tom ;)
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Joann Wheatley
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 5:50 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Hey Tom:
Did the avocado green paint work out? The reason I asked is that the
lady across the street just moved to Kansas and I inherited 2 Weber
kettle bbq'ers from her and one is avocado green (the other one is
black). The green one has a couple of dings on the top and a pretty
fair accumulation of gunk from more cooking that cleaning but otherwise
in good shape. It's just what you need to go with your trailer decor!!
Actually, I did decide to go ahead and take it because I figured some
Airstreamer probably would like it - goes great with the pink flamingo
birds.
My rebuild is on the back porch where it extends behind the carport
and it just barely fits under the roof - so I haven't been able to test
my vent/stove cooking yet since there's not enough air on top of the
trailer - I bet I could set the roof on fire if I tried so I'm waiting
till we haul her out and have the big unveiling.
I wonder if instead of painting the vent a hood if you removed the
paint that's on it and buff it with a Scotch Brite pad would it look
like stainless steel? I took the original vent/dome off my trailer (14"
x 14") and put in the Fantastic Fan and it came with a seal and bezel
trim that fits just great - I haven't had it in the rain yet though.
Hope it doesn't leak.
Jo Ann
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 18:21:10 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Joann,
No doubt you knew what I meant by what I wrote is that you WILL have to
install this type of wheel when you are parked and will NOT leave it on
permanently. Install the wheel at home to roll it around, remove it for
travel. Usual disclaimer here. ;)
Tom
On Behalf Of Tom
Subject: RE: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Joann,
If you have a wheel extending out from the bottom of the jack "tube" for
lack of a better word, you could very well rip it off when you hit a dip in
the road, etc.
If you would like to add a wheel to the bottom of the jack "tube" I'd
suggest that you purchase one that is made for the task and is designed to
either go on the outside or the inside of the jack "tube" itself. As long
as you have a very strong caster wheel that pivots 360 degrees, has a
ball-bearing plate on top of which is welded a short section of steel tubing
it will be fine to use as you'd like. This short section of steel tubing on
top of the ball-bearing caster plate needs to have a hole drilled through it
horizontally so that you can attach a pin with an attached wire lock that
just swings over the end of the pin. If you visualize the letter 'D' it
would look like that; the straight line of the letter 'D' is the pin and the
half-round portion of the letter 'D' would be the spring wire that flips
over the end of the pin, locking it in place which keeps the rotating caster
wheel on the end of the jack "tube".
For this job I'd prefer a wheel made out of really tough plastic such as
polyurethane rather than plain old rubber. The poly wheel will not mark
surfaces and it will hold up much better over time.
You can find stuff like this at Tractor Supply Company, Northern Tools, etc.
Most likely you will have to have a small custom welding job done for you
once you find out the diameter of the jack "tube". Then you will know by
what you can find at the store whether you need to have a part welded to the
outside or the inside of the rotating steel caster wheel plate.
Simple? ;))
Tom
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 16:33:19 -0600
From: Robert Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Hi Joann,
Forrest & I are trying to gauge interest in the Corning window
replacements so we started this thread. I don't want to be picky, but it
would be helpfull if you changed the subject on your posts to something
different. That way we won't get confused. :-)
Thanks so much,
Rob Davis
Joann Wheatley wrote:
> Oops - I omitted too much stuff from Tom Birdsong's message to which I
> replied about the avocado green paint and it probably confused other
> listers - it was not addressed to Tom Patterson except as the web guy.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 18:33:53 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Forrest,
I would say put me down for a window depending on cost maybe up
three to have as spares.
Another thought would be to contact, InlandRV and Airstreamdreams,
and Airstream. They may what to buy some to have in stock.
Base on the fact,
this would be a one time build from the makers(my guess). We
the Airstream part buyers would have to understand the resale from
them to us later would be 30-50% more than they could be purchase
from at this time. Having stock items sitting around until someone wants to
purchase them does cost money.
Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
66 Overlander (good glass)
66 Safari (good glass)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2004 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am looking to see how many VAL members need and are interested in glass
> (not plastic) replacement for missing 1966-1968 Corning glass.
>
> Since the list is not set up to do a voting poll, I will simply tabulate
the
> results based on the responce of the VAL membership. Also, you may know of
a
> vintage Airstream owner who has lost their Corning glass, but is not an
> active VAL participant. If so, do a proxy vote for them. The reason for
this
> is that we are working on developing an economical source for replacement
> glass.
>
> Forrest
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 16:53:09 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
The power jack probably doesn't retract enough to let the standard
Airstream jack wheel clear the ground. The foot can be much shorter.
On ground that isn't perfectly level, I consider the use of a wheel on
the jack or some moving dolly to be suicidal. You can't control a few
thousand pounds of trailer that's beginning to roll down the hill. I've
known of more than one farmer killed while trying to move an auger with
such a scheme and it got away running under a live power line. The power
line was what got me involved, but getting run over by the trailer or
auger tire doesn't make you feel better. It can cause serious damage.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 18:00:43 -0500
From: Robyn Dochterman <robdoc@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Request from writer
Greetings!
I'm a magazine writer working on a piece about legacy Airstreamers -- those
of you who got your first Airstream from your parents or grandparents --
either as a gift or inheritance.
A member suggested there might be a few of you that fit that description on
the list, and I'd like to talk with you if you're game to share your story
with me.
I have written about Airstreams before -- even had a story syndicated, so I
think you'll find me fairly Airstream savvy and easy to talk to and work with.
If you're interested, please drop me an e-mail at Robdoc@xxxxxxxxxx.com.
Thanks very much! -- Robyn
Robyn Dochterman
Robdoc@xxxxxxxxxx.com
- ------------------------------------------------------------
"I carry on a lot of the functions of an adult but I have to force myself,
" -- William Steig, author of "Shrek!"
- ------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 16:37:42 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Sorry, I forgot about the automatic features of this List. I hope
that's the worse I ever do.
Jo Ann
On 31, May 2004, at 3:33 PM, Robert Davis wrote:
> Hi Joann,
>
> Forrest & I are trying to gauge interest in the Corning window
> replacements so we started this thread. I don't want to be picky, but
> it would be helpfull if you changed the subject on your posts to
> something different. That way we won't get confused. :-)
>
> Thanks so much,
> Rob Davis
>
>
> Joann Wheatley wrote:
>
>> Oops - I omitted too much stuff from Tom Birdsong's message to which
>> I replied about the avocado green paint and it probably confused
>> other listers - it was not addressed to Tom Patterson except as the
>> web guy.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 16:35:56 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Yes simple. I had just such a wheel that I'd bought when I first got
Bubbles and once I'd hooked up to the truck, the wheel came loose (it
wasn't pinned) and I'd throw it in the truck. Does having a power jack
preclude the use of a wheel for some reason? I guess that is a better
way to restate my problem.
Jo Ann
On 31, May 2004, at 3:13 PM, Tom wrote:
> Joann,
>
> If you have a wheel extending out from the bottom of the jack "tube"
> for
> lack of a better word, you could very well rip it off when you hit a
> dip in
> the road, etc.
>
> If you would like to add a wheel to the bottom of the jack "tube" I'd
> suggest that you purchase one that is made for the task and is
> designed to
> either go on the outside or the inside of the jack "tube" itself. As
> long
> as you have a very strong caster wheel that pivots 360 degrees, has a
> ball-bearing plate on top of which is welded a short section of steel
> tubing
> it will be fine to use as you'd like. This short section of steel
> tubing on
> top of the ball-bearing caster plate needs to have a hole drilled
> through it
> horizontally so that you can attach a pin with an attached wire lock
> that
> just swings over the end of the pin. If you visualize the letter 'D'
> it
> would look like that; the straight line of the letter 'D' is the pin
> and the
> half-round portion of the letter 'D' would be the spring wire that
> flips
> over the end of the pin, locking it in place which keeps the rotating
> caster
> wheel on the end of the jack "tube".
>
> For this job I'd prefer a wheel made out of really tough plastic such
> as
> polyurethane rather than plain old rubber. The poly wheel will not
> mark
> surfaces and it will hold up much better over time.
>
> You can find stuff like this at Tractor Supply Company, Northern
> Tools, etc.
> Most likely you will have to have a small custom welding job done for
> you
> once you find out the diameter of the jack "tube". Then you will know
> by
> what you can find at the store whether you need to have a part welded
> to the
> outside or the inside of the rotating steel caster wheel plate.
>
> Simple? ;))
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> On Behalf Of Joann Wheatley
> Subject: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
>
> I had a power jack put on the Bubble but for some reason which I need
> to follow up on, the guy said that it won't work with the wheel on it,
> it has to have the little jack stand at the bottom. So how am I
> supposed to push my trailer around? I sure don't need another dang
> gadget (separate little trailer mover thing.).
> Jo Ann
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 19:51:50 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Joann,
I think that what precludes you having a wheel installed on the jack is that
the tube pulls up way too far into the outside jack pipe/tube. Also,
anything hanging below the plane of the bottom of the jack tube would surely
get destroyed the first time the rig bent in the middle going from a
driveway to the street, etc.
Now, IF you could re-mount the jack high enough .... no, don't do that! ;)
Tom
On Behalf Of Joann Wheatley
Subject: Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Yes simple. I had just such a wheel that I'd bought when I first got
Bubbles and once I'd hooked up to the truck, the wheel came loose (it
wasn't pinned) and I'd throw it in the truck. Does having a power jack
preclude the use of a wheel for some reason? I guess that is a better
way to restate my problem.
Jo Ann
On 31, May 2004, at 3:13 PM, Tom wrote:
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 18:17:04 -0600
From: Robert Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Joann,
Thanks, I enjoy reading your posts.
Rob
Joann Wheatley wrote:
> I hope that's the worse I ever do.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 18:36:45 -0600
From: "gshippen" <gshippen@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
Forrest,
Count me in for one corning glass for the 66 Overlander.
Gerald Shippen
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2004 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1966-1968 Corning Glass
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am looking to see how many VAL members need and are interested in glass
> (not plastic) replacement for missing 1966-1968 Corning glass.
>
> Since the list is not set up to do a voting poll, I will simply tabulate
the
> results based on the responce of the VAL membership. Also, you may know of
a
> vintage Airstream owner who has lost their Corning glass, but is not an
> active VAL participant. If so, do a proxy vote for them. The reason for
this
> is that we are working on developing an economical source for replacement
> glass.
>
> Forrest
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 19:58:27 -0500
From: <carolyne.newburn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
> From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Date: 2004/05/31 Mon PM 04:53:09 CDT
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
>
> The power jack probably doesn't retract enough to let the standard
> Airstream jack wheel clear the ground. The foot can be much shorter.
>
> On ground that isn't perfectly level, I consider the use of a wheel on
> the jack or some moving dolly to be suicidal. You can't control a few
> thousand pounds of trailer that's beginning to roll down the hill. I've
> known of more than one farmer killed while trying to move an auger with
> such a scheme and it got away running under a live power line. The power
> line was what got me involved, but getting run over by the trailer or
> auger tire doesn't make you feel better. It can cause serious damage.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 22:58:27 -0400
From: Gary <verygary@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] black tank valve gate
I have asked about this subject before only more related to rebuilding
and replacing seals on the existing brass valve gate on my black tank.
Well, it seems to be leaking after the second clear water holding test.
It has been almost a month since I tested it after replacing the three
seals and reattaching it to the black tank. I plan to take it out and
check and replace seals as needed again as maybe one is slipped or
pinched, but my question this time is what are my options if it still
does not work? Is there a modern version all be it plastic that will fit
the existing bolt pattern on my 1962 black tank? At some point I think
there was some mention of an adapter that would fit in between the tank
and the new valve? An all new valve is starting to sound like the
safest way to hit the road for the first time. I still think the brass
valve has the possibility to be rebuild, but maybe it is just an old
style part that has seen better days.
Hopefully this is a common fix on a high wear part that many list
members have dealt with and can offer some suggestions on the best fix.
Thanks,
Gary Campbell
62' Safari double
Portland, Maine
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 23:04:36 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
Joann,
Simply put, no, just because you have a power jack does not mean that you
cannot use your wheel attachment. BUT the new jack may have a wider tube
than your old jack that would not allow your wheel to slip on to the tube,
OR there may be a non-removable "foot" on the end of the tube, which would
also not allow your wheel to fit on the tube.
Scott Scheuermann
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Power jack/Wheel
> Yes simple. I had just such a wheel that I'd bought when I first got
> Bubbles and once I'd hooked up to the truck, the wheel came loose (it
> wasn't pinned) and I'd throw it in the truck. Does having a power jack
> preclude the use of a wheel for some reason? I guess that is a better
> way to restate my problem.
> Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 22:17:19 -0500
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL]
http://www.airstreamsites.com/best-sites/out.php?id=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.airstreamforums.com%2Fforums&cat=1
This was discussed on Airstream Forums last week. There is a picture of
the replacement Thetford valve and adapter.
See:
http://www.airstreamforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11535&referrerid=8
Gary wrote:
>I have asked about this subject before only more related to rebuilding
>and replacing seals on the existing brass valve gate on my black tank.
>Well, it seems to be leaking after the second clear water holding test.
>It has been almost a month since I tested it after replacing the three
>seals and reattaching it to the black tank. I plan to take it out and
>check and replace seals as needed again as maybe one is slipped or
>pinched, but my question this time is what are my options if it still
>does not work? Is there a modern version all be it plastic that will fit
>the existing bolt pattern on my 1962 black tank? At some point I think
>there was some mention of an adapter that would fit in between the tank
>and the new valve? An all new valve is starting to sound like the
>safest way to hit the road for the first time. I still think the brass
>valve has the possibility to be rebuild, but maybe it is just an old
>style part that has seen better days.
>Hopefully this is a common fix on a high wear part that many list
>members have dealt with and can offer some suggestions on the best fix.
>Thanks,
>Gary Campbell
>62' Safari double
>Portland, Maine
>
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