The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #257
VAL Digest Monday, May 24 2004 Volume 01 : Number 257
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] Ten X Sealant
Fwd: Re: [VAL] Ten X Sealant
Re: Re: [VAL] Ten X Sealant
Re: [VAL] Toilet in 69 Tradewind
[VAL] 1948 AS for sale
Re: [VAL] Re: Foremost
Re: [VAL] Toilet in 69 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Toilet in 69 Tradewind
[VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
Re: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
[VAL] 1964 Globe Trotter
Re: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
[VAL] Toilet part
Re: [VAL] 1964 Globe Trotter
Re: [VAL] 1964 Globe Trotter
Re: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
Re: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 05:38:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Birdsong <tbirddog7@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Ten X Sealant
Daisy: leaks can drive you crazy.I have 1963 Safari,that leaks a little now and then.
One of the main culprits was the vent area on top.Not so much as the vent it self but
the seams in this area .Also I found that when my trailer sits level it "weeps" less .
Why ,I don't know.I've begun to think that there are only two kinds of campers one
that leaks and one that the owner just won't tell you it leaks.One of the things that
you might want to take a hard look into is the plumbing leaks from underneath the trailer.
Just hook up the water hose to your trailer and look under the bottom to see what is going
on there.To me this is the most problematic because you ( and I ) don't think about these
areas too much .Out of sight out of mind,type of thing.But they can do the most damage..
One other thing while on the general topic of plumbing.I found on e-bay a devise that I
think will be most helpful in the coming winter season.It a devise that hooks to your air
hose on an air compressor and in
turns screws into the intake on the exterior water connection.This devise will allow for
the intake of air into your general plumbing system.It will let you blow the water out of
your plumbing for winterizing your trailer.The cost is nominal $ 10.00 + shipping.But a
word of caution when and if you use this, go slow and don't put it (air) in too forceful.
I'm planning on using an old fashioned bicycle pump.Also when you place antifreeze into the
water system this devise will allow you to make sure it( antifreeze ) is going all thru your
system.
Well,as you can see I'm full of more stuff than a Christmas turkey.so I'll stop for now.If
I can help you with anything else just let me know. Oh ,yes.Almost for got.There is another
sight that had a lot of parts ( didn't say cheep) for older Airstream's "inland.com"( if
I've not gotten this correct just go to"Google.com" and type the above information in the
blank space on the screen).Google can find more stuff out than you want to know.Google is
one of the best search engines on the net.If Google can't find it for you there are a couple
of others that sometimes go even deeper into stuff.Let me know and I'll pass then along as well.
Hope to hear back from you again from time to time.Best,mam' .Tom
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Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 05:51:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Birdsong <tbirddog7@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Fwd: Re: [VAL] Ten X Sealant
Note: forwarded message attached.
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Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 05:38:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Birdsong <tbirddog7@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Ten X Sealant
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Daisy: leaks can drive you crazy.I have 1963 Safari,that leaks a little now and then.One of
the main culprits was the vent area on top.Not so much as the vent it self but the seams in
this area .Also I found that when my trailer sits level it "weeps" less .Why ,I don't know.
I've begun to think that there are only two kinds of campers one that leaks and one that the
owner just won't tell you it leaks.One of the things that you might want to take a hard look
into is the plumbing leaks from underneath the trailer.Just hook up the water hose to your
trailer and look under the bottom to see what is going on there.To me this is the most
problematic because you ( and I ) don't think about these areas too much .Out of sight out of
mind,type of thing.But they can do the most damage..One other thing while on the general topic
of plumbing.I found on e-bay a devise that I think will be most helpful in the coming winter
season.It a devise that hooks to your air hose on an air compresso!
r and in
turns screws into the intake on the exterior water connection.This devise will allow for the
intake of air into your general plumbing system.It will let you blow the water out of your
plumbing for winterizing your trailer.The cost is nominal $ 10.00 + shipping.But a word of
caution when and if you use this, go slow and don't put it (air) in too forceful.I'm planning
on using an old fashioned bicycle pump.Also when you place antifreeze into the water system
this devise will allow you to make sure it( antifreeze ) is going all thru your system.
Well,as you can see I'm full of more stuff than a Christmas turkey.so I'll stop for now.If I
can help you with anything else just let me know. Oh ,yes.Almost for got.There is another sight
that had a lot of parts ( didn't say cheep) for older Airstream's "inland.com"( if I've not gotten
this correct just go to"Google.com" and type the above information in the blank space on the
screen).Google can find more stuff out than you want to know.Google is one of the best search
engines on the net.If Google can't find it for you there are a couple of others that sometimes go
even deeper into stuff.Let me know and I'll pass then along as well.
Hope to hear back from you again from time to time.Best,mam' .Tom
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Domains - Claim yours for only $14.70/year
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 09:21:53 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [VAL] Ten X Sealant
Tom, most RV stores and Wal-Mart have a plastic part for about $1 that is
threaded to connect to your city water inlet with an air nipple so you can
blow out the water from the lines when it's time to winterize. I recommend
a water heater bypass kit and using the onboard water pump to pump RV
antifreeze through the system. There's a kit for that too. I can put
antifreeze in my Tradewind water lines with less that 2 gallons of
antifreeze. It's fast and freeze proof.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Birdsong" <tbirddog7@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 8:51 AM
Subject: Fwd: Re: [VAL] Ten X Sealant
>>>> snip good stuff <<<<<<
One other thing while on the general topic of plumbing.I found on e-bay a
devise that I think will be most helpful in the coming winter season.It a
devise that hooks to your air hose on an air compresso!
> r and in
> turns screws into the intake on the exterior water connection.This devise
will allow for the intake of air into your general plumbing system.It will
let you blow the water out of your plumbing for winterizing your
trailer.The cost is nominal $ 10.00 + shipping.But a word of caution when
and if you use this, go slow and don't put it (air) in too forceful.I'm
planning on using an old fashioned bicycle pump.Also when you place
antifreeze into the water system this devise will allow you to make sure
it( antifreeze ) is going all thru your system.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 12:29:53 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Toilet in 69 Tradewind
Hi Tom,
I've had a toilet water feed problem with all the RV's I've used. I cured
it in my new one by not connecting the toilet to the water system. I
use the shower hose to flush with. It allows more control of water
usage and won't stick open which drains all your water and floods the bath.
>Hello all: Finally got the toilet out and found the plastic part at the rear
>of the toilet that connects to the water inlet has a crack that runs the
>length of the bottom of the part.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 16:57:40 -00
From: "John Schubert" <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 1948 AS for sale
This could be a misprint but in Sun. KC Star there is a AS for sale,
1948 16 ft. one owner, $7000/obo 913-782-4210. I could be available
for a look-see for a buyer if needed.
John
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 13:29:33 -0500
From: Blair <hitek_airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Foremost
Jo Ann -
I use USAA for my truck and for renters insurance to cover me in
campgrounds, and trailer contents, etc.
I muse Foremost for my Trailer.
Blair
At 01:10 PM 5/22/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks Patti: I'll give them a call. My insurance is with USAA a usually
>wonderful company to do business with but they seemed a bit baffled about
>a vintage Airstream.
>Jo Ann
>On 22, May 2004, at 6:26 AM, Patricia V. Raimondo wrote:
>
>>Hi Jo Ann,
>>
>>Foremost was recommended to me by some of the A/S list group members and
>>I've used them for the past 6 years.
>>
>>Foremost Property and Casualty Ins. Co.
>>PO Box 3357
>>Grand Rapids MI 49501
>>1-800-237-2060
>>
>>When I called them about the Hensley they responded very quickly. I only
>>had to send receipts for the new hitch and postage and the check was in
>>the mail. I've been told that they are the only co. that will insure
>>vintage rigs.
>>
>>Patti
>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 12:58:06 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Toilet in 69 Tradewind
> Hello all: Finally got the toilet out and found the plastic part at the
rear
> of the toilet that connects to the water inlet has a crack that runs the
> length of the bottom of the part. This is were the leak was coming from.
I
> imagine that the whole part is no longer available and I doubt I can seal
up this
> hairline crack. Unless anyone has any experience in fixing something like
> this, I am back to looking for a replacement toilet for the AS. Its kind
of a
> shame because the whole toilet is in great shape. Any ideas would be
appreciated.
>
> Tom Fairbank
> 1969 Tradewind
> WBCC 28199
Hey Tom:
If it is a Thetford toilet, there is a replaceable gizmo called the "water
valve". It commonly splits when the water supply line leading to it
freezes. I got one directly from Thetford.
So if you have a Thetford Aqua-Magic unit it's called the Water Valve
Replacement Package. Was around twenty bucks in Feb 2000.
If it isn't a Thetford.......never mind.
GQ '67 Safari
4020 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 18:36:50 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Toilet in 69 Tradewind
GQ: I don't know if its a Thetford but I will check it out anyway. Thanks
Tom Fairbank
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 17:37:51 -0700
From: Gary Meeker <gmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.csus.edu>
Subject: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
Hi folks,
I've removed the vinyl/asbestos floor covering from the main floor and
under the galley in my Bubble. I'll replace it there with new linoleum.
However I think it's too difficult (and dangerous) to remove this original
asbestos-contaminated flooring from under the other cabinetry and the rear
storage area. Since it's disintegrating I need to seal it with
something. What should I use to cover the remaining floor to keep the
asbestos contained?
Gary Meeker in Sacramento
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 21:29:10 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
Gary, You should check more on this, but the kind of asbestos that is
dangerous is what's known as friable, the loose stuff like fiberglass
that they used to insulate heating pipes with. Also sawing any form of
asbestos is bad. I don't think that the asbestos in the tiles is a
particular danger. I would wear a mask and ventilate well, but it's not
haz mat stuff.
I dunno about sealing it, I would be tempted by an epoxy based coating.
someone will have more to say, no doubt.
Daisy
Gary Meeker wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I've removed the vinyl/asbestos floor covering from the main floor and
> under the galley in my Bubble. I'll replace it there with new linoleum.
> However I think it's too difficult (and dangerous) to remove this
> original asbestos-contaminated flooring from under the other cabinetry
> and the rear storage area. Since it's disintegrating I need to seal it
> with something. What should I use to cover the remaining floor to keep
> the asbestos contained?
>
> Gary Meeker in Sacramento
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 21:08:51 -0500
From: "CAROLYN NEWBURN" <carolyne.newburn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 1964 Globe Trotter
We just joined the group and need information on a 1964 Globe Trotter made in
California. Do you know if the exterior aluminum is anodized, clear coated,
or natural on this model? Thanks!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 20:38:20 -0600
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
Hi Gary,
I agree with Daisy. As long as you don't sand it, saw it, or pulverize it in
some way to create a fine dust most, if not all the particulants will be too
large to float in the air and be inhaled. You can most likely remove the
remaining tile simply by loosening the cabinet attachment to the floor and
using a putty knife to slide under the tile to pop it up. The biggest
problem I had was getting the cabinets unscrewed from the floor. The screws
were a soft steel and the slots in the head gave way before the screw would
loosen. I was able to keep that from happening by using an impact driver.
The tool doesn't cost much at Tool King or other discount tool stores.
Forrest
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Meeker" <gmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.csus.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 6:37 PM
Subject: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
> Hi folks,
>
> I've removed the vinyl/asbestos floor covering from the main floor and
> under the galley in my Bubble. I'll replace it there with new linoleum.
> However I think it's too difficult (and dangerous) to remove this original
> asbestos-contaminated flooring from under the other cabinetry and the rear
> storage area. Since it's disintegrating I need to seal it with
> something. What should I use to cover the remaining floor to keep the
> asbestos contained?
>
> Gary Meeker in Sacramento
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 22:44:10 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Toilet part
GQ: Do you remember the web site where you got the "Water Valve Replacement
Package"? My manual says the toilet is a Aqua Magic Supreme which is not
listed on the Thetford site. Where did you find yours.
Tom Fairbank
1969 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 20:51:45 -0600
From: Rob Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1964 Globe Trotter
CAROLYN NEWBURN wrote:
>We just joined the group and need information on a 1964 Globe Trotter made in
>California. Do you know if the exterior aluminum is anodized, clear coated,
>or natural on this model?
>
Carolyn,
We have the trailer as you do. Other owners on this list with the same
trailer are Arlen & Shirley Manning of Napa, CA and Jere & Jane Potter
of Fort Collins, CO.
The factory optional equipment list is on the VAC website at:
http://airstream.net/members/documents/flyers/1964%20Options.pdf
It lists 'Outside Acrylic Coating' as a $19.00 option for our trailers.
All the CA trailers I have seen had it but the Ohio trailers haven't.
I know of none that were anodized (except Wally's at Jackson Center).
Here's links to the Manning's great web site and to our's:
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/
http://www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/
Maybe they'll help answer some of the questions you might have.
Rob & Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
WBCCI #1824, VAC
Denver, CO
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 21:53:23 -0500
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1964 Globe Trotter
Airstream started clearcoating(plasticoting) in the early 60's. They
never anodized the aluminum. Your coach, after 40 years may or may not
have clearcoating. An easy test is to put a dab of toothpaste on a white
rag and rub an inconspicious spot on your airstream skin. If the rag
turns black you don't have clearcoating there. If it doesn't go black it
is coated. A 40 year old airstream that wasn't clearcoated should be
dull gray by now. Of course someone could have polished it before.
CAROLYN NEWBURN wrote:
>We just joined the group and need information on a 1964 Globe Trotter made in
>California. Do you know if the exterior aluminum is anodized, clear coated,
>or natural on this model? Thanks!
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 21:05:59 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
A short Google search on terms "vinyl/asbestos" tile sealer brought up
over 400 hits. The first one is official government, the rest are less
official, but some are products sold for the purposes.
http://www.maine.gov/dep/rwm/asbestos/asbfloors.htm
http://www.cleaninglink.com/bockstanz/Products/Specs-BB_Undercoater_Sealer.htm
http://www.doc.state.nc.us/EPRISE/products/JANPROD.htm
http://www.parish-supply.com/pour_n_peel.htm
http://www.homerepairzone.com/asbestos_tile.html
http://www.icsmag.com/CDA/ArticleInformation/features/BNP__Features__Item/0,3035,63071,00.html
http://amrepdata.amrep.com/Lit/floorcare.pdf
http://esdstore.esdsystems.com/pdf/ps-2117.pdf
http://www.pantherindustries.com/purrfect1.htm
http://www.cheathouse.com/eview/13876-asbestos-removal-management-procedures.html
http://www.surfacingsystems.com/install-guide.htm
http://www.unitex-chemicals.com/catalog/solventseal_30.shtml
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 20:59:55 -0700
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
All,
I just did this on the entire floor of my 1969 Caravel. Well, I lifted
two of four secured cabinets. I too found that the long Phillips head sheet
metal screws they drove into the plywood floor had rusted in the wood and
clogged the threads. Aside from stripping the slots with my Makita (they
wouldn't even budge by hand despite impacting them), when finally free, they
spun in place.
The solution was to chop off the end of the 1"X1" batten just inboard of
the screw with a wood chisel and a hammer. I was then able to break up the
short piece of batten and remove the exposed screw with a claw hammer.
Almost all of the original 12" squares came up very easily with a wide
bladed putty knife and I replaced them a few at a time with new, slightly
thicker ones.
I made up a couple of hardwood wedges that I used to raise the cabinets.
I only removed one screw at a time so as not to change the cabinets original
orientation relative to doors opening, etc. This was probably over kill but
I had to remove the screws anyway so I allowed that I didn't have to remove
all of them first and could do them one at a time.
FYI, I used Armstrong Imperial Texture 51858 tiles I got at Home Depot,
the closest pattern I could find to match the original tan marble pattern
ones. I used Henry's Clear Thin Spread Floor Tile Adhesive #430 and a very
specific trowel they describe on the side of the one gallon container. I
the trowel at Home Depot along with the adhesive and tile. It's a
SuperiorBilt 85-T4-17. 1/16" X 1/32" X 5/64" notched model. I called
Henry's Customer Service line and got good basic advice from their tech rep.
The adhesive is water soluble when wet and comes up like magic when it cures
with common paint thinner, it's just great to use.
The job went smoothly, like I said, 8 to 10 tiles at a time. That way I
was able to replace like for like and knew that my tile alignment would be
smack on. I got pretty good at cutting odd angles using the tick stick
method and the whole job took about four days of a few hours here and a few
hours there.
After everything was replaced I went back (this afternoon) and redrilled
the battens for new hold down screws that ended up being about 2" inboard of
the original, now nonexistent ones.
This is probably way more information that 98% of you reading this need
to know but I would have appreciated having a description like this about a
week ago before I started, so this is for those of you about to tackle the
same task.
Oh, here's a funny sidebar. The directions for spreading the adhesive
and laying the tile said to keep everything 65 degrees or higher inside for
several days before and during the installation and as I'm also preparing to
have the valves replaced on the two 30 pound propane tanks, I've been
running the 9,000 BTU heater for the last week 24/7. The guy at the propane
service needs them to be empty to do the valve change of course. I hope to
take them in this next week as soon as the last tank is empty.
IMPORTANT NOTE TO ANYONE PLANNING TO REPLACE VALVES ON THEIR TANKS!!!!!!
The guy there told me to get them changed before May 29 because the
Federal law is going to get tougher which might disqualify my perfectly good
tanks (and yours). I didn't get details at the time when I took one in last
week and had this conversation with them.
They weren't able to change the valve then because they said that there
can't be a speck visible rust on my steel tanks. I'm in the process of sand
blasting them to bare metal and the thin film of miniscule rust on the
exposed areas as well as the normal rust on the base (not sandblasted there
yet) was enough for him to tell me to return with them completely painted
and not a trace of rust. I plan to quickly paint them with a cheap spray
can this week so as to get the valves changed before the deadline. I'll
then remove all paint, prime and finish paint the two of them the right way.
Regards,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
> From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 20:38:20 -0600
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
>
> Hi Gary,
>
> I agree with Daisy. As long as you don't sand it, saw it, or pulverize it in
> some way to create a fine dust most, if not all the particulants will be too
> large to float in the air and be inhaled. You can most likely remove the
> remaining tile simply by loosening the cabinet attachment to the floor and
> using a putty knife to slide under the tile to pop it up. The biggest
> problem I had was getting the cabinets unscrewed from the floor. The screws
> were a soft steel and the slots in the head gave way before the screw would
> loosen. I was able to keep that from happening by using an impact driver.
> The tool doesn't cost much at Tool King or other discount tool stores.
>
> Forrest
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Meeker" <gmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.csus.edu>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 6:37 PM
> Subject: [VAL] vinyl/asbestos sealer
>
>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I've removed the vinyl/asbestos floor covering from the main floor and
>> under the galley in my Bubble. I'll replace it there with new linoleum.
>> However I think it's too difficult (and dangerous) to remove this original
>> asbestos-contaminated flooring from under the other cabinetry and the rear
>> storage area. Since it's disintegrating I need to seal it with
>> something. What should I use to cover the remaining floor to keep the
>> asbestos contained?
>>
>> Gary Meeker in Sacramento
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
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