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VAL Digest V1 #244



VAL Digest            Tuesday, May 11 2004            Volume 01 : Number 244




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Seals,pumps,pressure
[VAL] need a raise...
Re: [VAL] need a raise...
Re: [VAL] Seals,pumps,pressure
Re: [VAL] need a raise...
Re: [VAL] need a raise...
Re: [VAL] need a raise...
[VAL] Someone needs help
[VAL] Cabo San Lucas RV Parks
Re: [VAL] Good Grief...moderation
Re: [VAL] ebay 2478196014 
Re: [VAL] need a raise...
[VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)
Re: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)
Re: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)
Re: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)
RE: [VAL] trailer sales
Re: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)
Re: [VAL] Seals,pumps,pressure

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Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 08:46:33 -0400
From: Gary <verygary@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Seals,pumps,pressure

This is a follow up to my brass black water tank rebuild and some
questions about new pump installs.
It seems my new seals are working and the tank is holding water. I did
have to make up one o ring that fits between the valve and the tank by
using an o ring automotive kit that has a cutting device and a glue
guide. My auto repair friends said it was a standard NAPA kit and said
that glue was a type of superglue. It was a Wurth product and I am not
sure if that is different then a standard superglue. The other o rings
that were supplied by a local industrial seal shop seemed to fit well
including the replacement for the square flat gasket that fit between
the two halves of the main body. So far so good.
I am also converting all of the old copper to pex and it is almost
complete. I am not sure how the new arrangement with the new sur-flo
pump and Inca fresh water tank will work with a supply line connected as
it relates to the pump. I suppose as long as the tank handles the
pressure from the supply line the pump will operate as normal. This is
where a pressure reducer would fit inline between hose and trailer?
There is a vent inlet on the top of the tank that I am planning to
connect to the existing air pressure valve that is located next to the
inlet petcock valve on the side of the trailer. My thinking is this
should have to have a shut off device that can be closed when hooked up
to a hose at a campground, etc. This would also have to act as an
overflow/vent for the tank when filled and then for remote service. Make
any sense?  If anyone has comments I would appreciate your input.
Otherwise it will be one of those trial and error exercises. I will be
away most of this week put will check back at the in four or five days
in case follow up is required. Thanks.
Gary Campbell
62' Safari
Portland, Maine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 06:18:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Anthony <seaaudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] need a raise...

ok, so it's off to the trailer shop for a look at the
springs...

One more question for those who've swapped the axle to
be underneath the springs; what differences did you
notice in the way it towed?  More sway? or less?

Thanks!

Scott
57 Caravanner



	
		
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 10:10:53 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] need a raise...

Scott,

Though I have never done the axle/spring swap, I would
think you'd have more sway, since it will be riding 
higher. I think you need to do either/or not and. If you're
putting new springs on there should be no reason to place
the axle on top. If you're not putting new springs on, put
the axle on top of the old springs. But don't put the axle
on top of the new springs. The "ONLY" reason why you
would put new spring and the axle on top of the new springs
would be if you plan on crossing creeks/rivers/deep ruts,
etc... almost four wheeling. I still think the best thing to
do is new springs/shocks/shackle. No since taking a bath
and putting dirty underwear on.

Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
66 Overlander
66 Safari


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Anthony" <seaaudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 8:18 AM
Subject: [VAL] need a raise...


> ok, so it's off to the trailer shop for a look at the
> springs...
> 
> One more question for those who've swapped the axle to
> be underneath the springs; what differences did you
> notice in the way it towed?  More sway? or less?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Scott
> 57 Caravanner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
> http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 09:07:46 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Seals,pumps,pressure

The inline pressure regulator would fit between the hose and the trailer
plumbing. And that line would connect to the pump outlet to supply the
outlets directly. There can be a valve in a line also to the tank or the
inlet side of the filter but that's only to fill the tank from that hose
connection.

However it might be different if you use an air compressor to pressurize
the tank. Most modern trailer plumbing (both styles covered by
Livingston's fine book on RV maintenance) schemes use a demand pump on
the water side and don't pressurize the tank. By not requiring an air
space in the tank it allows carrying more water, and makes the leaks
less violent when the tank rusts through. I the situation with air
compressor, you'd plumb the hose inlet through the pressure regulator to
the tank with the pressure regulator set to something higher than the
air compressor pressure switch setting and hopefully that's lower than
the water line pressure.

You want a pressure REGULATOR not just a pressure reducer (which could
be as simple as a needle valve or orifice restriction in the line)
because the simple pressure reducer only reduces the pressure when there
is water flow. With no flow, the most restrictive orifice eventually
gets the pressure the same on both sides and the tank and trailer
plumbing may not stand 80 PSI without breaking.

The plumbing schemes are well established, no need inventing them over
again.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 09:07:51 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] need a raise...

Paul you seem confused. We get more ground clearance by putting the axle
UNDER the spring instead of ABOVE the spring. The axle originally was
above the spring.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 09:07:48 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] need a raise...

Raising the trailer body, whether by springs with more arch or by moving
the axles to below the spring, should add to the sway simply by having
raised the center of gravity of the trailer. If the wheel well clearance
is compromised by the sag of the old springs, by raising, one restores
the sway to the original. Much of the sway is in the tires, and going to
a larger size tire can allow the deflection of the tire to be less,
reducing sway. The wheel wells aren't built to snub the sway by rubbing
on the tops of the tires.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 12:01:05 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] need a raise...

Scott,

There was no difference in how the trailer towed, but you do need to be sure
that the hitch is adjusted properly to compensate for the change in ball
height. Hitches are normally not adjusted properly, so take the opportunity
to do it at the same time you flip the axle. Assuming that you have a Reese
hitch you can assess the adjustment instructions on their website (which I
don't have offhand, but I would guess it to be www.Reese.com)

Scott Scheuermann
1960 Overlander

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Anthony" <seaaudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 9:18 AM
Subject: [VAL] need a raise...


> ok, so it's off to the trailer shop for a look at the
> springs...
>
> One more question for those who've swapped the axle to
> be underneath the springs; what differences did you
> notice in the way it towed?  More sway? or less?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Scott
> 57 Caravanner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 12:07:46 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Someone needs help

Hello,

I was just contacted by a new member in the Berkeley CA area. She needs
someone to show her how things work on her 1966 Overlander.

If you may be able to help please contact me offlist.

Thanks,
Scott Scheuermann
VAC Membership Chairman


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] need a raise...


> Paul you seem confused. We get more ground clearance by putting the axle
> UNDER the spring instead of ABOVE the spring. The axle originally was
> above the spring.
>
> Gerald J.
> -- 
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 09:20:38 -0700
From: "Marvin W. Murray" <mwm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Cabo San Lucas RV Parks

Can anyone recommend a place to stay in my '76 Tradwind 25' in Cabo San 
Lucas?
Also, how is the road going down there? Any problems?
Any advise would be appreciated.

Marvin Murray

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 10:33:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Good Grief...moderation

slow down everyone - the travel season is upon us -
let's be gracious to one another

Toby Folwick
VAL Moderator.




	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs  
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 15:07:54 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] ebay 2478196014 

Its got to be a joke or something .....check it out . Maybe he got tired of
polishing ?
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 16:12:48 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] need a raise...

Sorry,Sorry.Sorry

Thats what I meant to say.

More clearance with the axle under the spring. 

I was on a conference call as I was typing. I guess
Airstreams and work don't mix.

Paul


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] need a raise...


> Paul you seem confused. We get more ground clearance by putting the axle
> UNDER the spring instead of ABOVE the spring. The axle originally was
> above the spring.
> 
> Gerald J.
> -- 
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 15:53:25 -0600
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)

hello everyone
this message is targeted for mr jim greene who posts here often but i would
appreciate anyone who might be able to help. i searched in the archives and
found that jim greene had posted a request for the old phillips window
hardware but i did not see a reply. i was wondering if he had found a source.
i am in need of one of the lower locks. i had to replace the large curved
window on street side with lexan and stainless steel frames. it works fairly
well but bows a bit in the middle at the bottom allowing for air and water
infiltration. i am curious also why the other two large windows (front and
back) have three locks but the street side only has two. all three windows are
identical other than that.  my intention is to add a third one to seal it up.
any ideas on availability? thanks for your help

harry truitt
66 safari

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 18:42:28 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)

Hello Stan,

I believe it was Pete Ryner who had some of the Phillips window locks from a
'68 Airstream he was selling parts from after he restored his ' 68
Sovereign. I should have bought a couple when I had a chance -- but I
didn't.  I checked later with Pete and they had been sold.

You might try the VAC classifieds. Sometimes things show up. Another long
shot is J&K Supply Co. in Alabama (205) 668-1450 or Camper Repair in
Birmingham (205) 665-2531

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
.
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 5:53 PM
Subject: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)


> hello everyone
> this message is targeted for mr jim greene who posts here often but i
would
> appreciate anyone who might be able to help. i searched in the archives
and
> found that jim greene had posted a request for the old phillips window
> hardware but i did not see a reply. i was wondering if he had found a
source.
> i am in need of one of the lower locks. i had to replace the large curved
> window on street side with lexan and stainless steel frames. it works
fairly
> well but bows a bit in the middle at the bottom allowing for air and water
> infiltration. i am curious also why the other two large windows (front and
> back) have three locks but the street side only has two. all three windows
are
> identical other than that.  my intention is to add a third one to seal it
up.
> any ideas on availability? thanks for your help
>
> harry truitt
> 66 safari

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 16:23:58 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)

> hello everyone
> this message is targeted for mr jim greene who posts here often but i
would
> appreciate anyone who might be able to help. i searched in the archives
and
> found that jim greene had posted a request for the old phillips window
> hardware but i did not see a reply. i was wondering if he had found a
source.
> i am in need of one of the lower locks. i had to replace the large curved
> window on street side with lexan and stainless steel frames. it works
fairly
> well but bows a bit in the middle at the bottom allowing for air and water
> infiltration. i am curious also why the other two large windows (front and
> back) have three locks but the street side only has two. all three windows
are
> identical other than that.  my intention is to add a third one to seal it
up.
> any ideas on availability? thanks for your help
>
> harry truitt
> 66 safari

Hi Harry:

This may be your lucky day (or not).  I have one of the "grabber" mechanisms
that you are talking about that I can spare.  But your problem may be
getting window clips.  I need some window clips.  Not the kind that Andy
sells as I understand they are designed to go over the metal window edging.
Too wide for me.  I want the original type clips that go directly on the
glass.

Have you got any clips to trade?

If you want to play "lets make a deal" e-mail me off line.

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 18:40:49 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)

On Mon, 10 May 2004 15:53:25 -0600, "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
wrote:

> also why the other two large windows (front and
>back) have three locks but the street side only has two. all three windows are
>identical other than that.  my intention is to add a third one to seal it up.
>any ideas on availability? thanks for your help

harry
IF you cannot get a 3d lock...
an alternative is to move the two towards each other
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton,  chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net  Houston, TX
WBCCI/WDCU #1130  VAC   S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign   '02 E350 SD PSD, Prodigy, Pullrite
- ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 20:16:39 -0400
From: "Tricia & Conrad Holsomback" <triconholsomback@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] trailer sales

"has anyone sold a as on the vac classaified ? mine has been on for a
time
 & not even a call, i need somethig smaller
mark"

Mark,
We sold our '83 thru the net.  We had it listed on the VAC classified,
and every rv list on the net that we could find, maybe 6.  We listed on
the VAC in April before we even picked up our '88, which we found on
Hunter's list.
But didn't get serious about listing with others or selling until August
when we picked up our '88 in Melbourne, FL.
We finally sold it in November.
The buyer wasn't sure which list he saw it on, and we didn't code our
ads, so we don't know which ad he was responding to, but he paid what we
asked for it.  
We had maaaaaaaaaaaaaany emails regarding the Airstream, some looky loos
and some hoping for a real cheap deal, but we kept responding to the
emails, sending pictures of both interior and exterior, and answering
questions, and not accepting lesser bids.
Many people made arrangements for us to be here when they wanted to come
see it, but only one or two actually showed up. Finally, a guy in
Tennessee showed up to look and called back the next day with his offer
and sent a copy of his cashier check thru email as proof he would have
the money when we arrived with the Airstream.  He was reluctant to send
the check and not have possession of the trailer.
Picking up the Airstream was a problem with the eventual buyer and
another very serious buyer in California when we were out there.  So we
delivered it to Tennessee, about 200 miles from us, a beautiful autumn
drive, set it up for him and picked up the check.
We waited till the next day to deposit it in our bank in SC, but
according to others who have had buyers stop payment before they arrived
home, we consider ourselves lucky and will not do that again.
Beware though of the scam that goes on about an oversees buyer wanting
your Airstream.  We receive at least one email a week like the following
ad beneath our signature which we received today.

Tricia & Conrad
WBCCI #1504
	
****************************************************************
EquipmentSearch.com ad inquiry for Tricia & Conrad Holsomback 
is from anthony williams at intelservices2003@xxxxxxxxxx.com

Company Name: intel services ltd
Address: dubai
Country: UAE

Phone: 
Fax: 
Email: intelservices2003@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Respond By: Email

AD#38747 - Excella 31\' 


we have a client who is interested in this item you have for sale and we
>would like for you to please quote us our final buy price. Our client
will
>be responsible for the shipping of this item. we expect to hear from 
>you

>asap, thanks



- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.668 / Virus Database: 430 - Release Date: 4/24/2004

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 21:00:29 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] phillips window hardware (jim greene)

For stiffening the lexan, it might be necessary to add a bit of a bottom
frame, or a piece of angle or channel, say 1/4" tall along the bottom of
the lexan. It will add amazing stiffness, the stiffness gets greater the
taller the side of the angle or channel perpendicular to the lexan.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 23:54:49 -0500
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Seals,pumps,pressure

Gary:
If you are converting from a pressure tank to a suction system, the 
pressure in the tank should be atmospheric and I would think no air 
pressure valve would be needed....As to the pressure from the inlet hose, 
the check valves in the pump keep that pressure from going into the tank... 
Turning the pump on while connected to a water supply usually does no harm 
as the pressure in the supply hose is enough to keep the pump from coming 
on... If you had a real low hose pressure and no check valve in the inlet 
hose fitting line, you could pump all your tank water out into the supply 
hose... Check valves in the system are supposed to prevent that, but 
sometimes the valve sticks and you tank water piddles out on the ground 
when the pump runs... I solved that in my trailer with a fitting with a 
check valve that replaces the hose connection...  I always use a pressure 
regulator at the supply faucet of the park which protects the hose and the 
trailer... Pressures as high as 90 + psi can be found in some areas... 
Usually more that the trailer fittings can handle... I am sure you are 
aware that when converting to suction system, the pump is moved to the 
delivery side of the tank... sucks the water out of the tank and 
pressurizes the trailer....to prevent a vacuum in the supply tank it's 
vented to the outside...Filling the supply tank from the water hose inlet 
connection usually means a special valve that operates a bypass around the 
pump... A manual operation where you operate the bypass and watch the tank 
level and shut off the bypass when you have the amount of water you want to 
carry...I have not yet figured out where mine is if I have one and I 
continue to fill with a separate hose through the little trap door inlet...

Good Luck ...

Jim


At 07:46 AM 5/10/2004, you wrote:
>. I am not sure how the new arrangement with the new sur-flo
>pump and Inca fresh water tank will work with a supply line connected as
>it relates to the pump. I suppose as long as the tank handles the
>pressure from the supply line the pump will operate as normal. This is
>where a pressure reducer would fit inline between hose and trailer?
>There is a vent inlet on the top of the tank that I am planning to
>connect to the existing air pressure valve that is located next to the
>inlet petcock valve on the side of the trailer. My thinking is this
>should have to have a shut off device that can be closed when hooked up
>to a hose at a campground, etc. This would also have to act as an
>overflow/vent for the tank when filled and then for remote service. Make
>any sense?  If anyone has comments I would appreciate your input.
>Otherwise it will be one of those trial and error exercises. I will be
>away most of this week put will check back at the in four or five days
>in case follow up is required. Thanks.
>Gary Campbell
>62' Safari
>Portland, Maine
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #244
*************************


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