The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #225
VAL Digest Thursday, April 22 2004 Volume 01 : Number 225
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] Wheels
[VAL] Re: electronic hot water heater
[VAL] Re: Atwood
Re: [VAL] Wheels
[VAL] Re: alternative to shaved rivets? (follow up)
[VAL] Re: skin repair
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #224
[VAL] Electrical weirdities....
[VAL] Re: VAC site at International
[VAL] Re: Wheels
Re: [VAL] Electrical weirdities....
Re: [VAL] Re: alternative to shaved rivets? (follow up)
Re: [VAL] Re: VAC site at International
Re: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
[VAL] Introduction
Re: [VAL] Introduction
Re: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
Re: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 00:48:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wheels
http://www.pioneerwheel.com/
http://www.championtrailer.com/
make sure you order wheels that are rated high enough
for the weight of your trailer (divided by 2 (or 4
depending on the number of wheels on the ground))
Toby
- --- Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> Hi All,
> I am in need of two wheels to replace the split
> rims on our 57
> Overlander. Have tried early Chev truck tires with
> six lugs but the
> backside of the rim isn't flat and thus won't allow
> me to use the
> Centramatic wheel balancers. Anyone have any
> suggestions?? Thanks.
> Jerry
> WBCCI VAC
>
>
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__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25"
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 07:35:18 -0400
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: electronic hot water heater
Jim,
I had the electronic start on the 03 Safari and when it didn't work I
went outside and used the match start. This new one also has a re-start
option that will try to re-light the pilot if it goes out.
Patti
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 07:37:50 -0400
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Atwood
Tim,
Great idea about the weather stripping! I'll do that!
Patti
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 07:50:05 -0400
From: "bob stockdale" <bobstock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wheels
Jerry I bought wheels from the Stag RV catalog for my 1960 Tradewind
manufactured by Hayes Lemmerz 6 bolt with 5-1/2" bolt circle 15" dia. x 6"
wide. Part # 96-1109 91905 . Fit is excellent. 58.99 ea.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Jarrell" <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 3:29 PM
Subject: [VAL] Wheels
> Hi All,
> I am in need of two wheels to replace the split rims on our 57
> Overlander. Have tried early Chev truck tires with six lugs but the
> backside of the rim isn't flat and thus won't allow me to use the
> Centramatic wheel balancers. Anyone have any suggestions?? Thanks.
> Jerry
> WBCCI VAC
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 07:51:41 -0500
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: alternative to shaved rivets? (follow up)
THANK YOU GQ and Chris- I appreciate the advice. Two more questions:
Are Olympic rivets installable with a standard rivet gun? I have a
pretty good one made by Arrow. And I do have access to the back of the
rivet.
What's the consensus on dabbing a little Vulkem behind the rivet head?
Cheers,
Chris Koehn
'79 @ 31' Int'l
WBCCI 8638
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 07:44:03 -0500
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: skin repair
I've had an opportunity to use bondo recently, though not on a skin
repair. I recently removed, fiberglassed (with cloth and epoxy), and
painted our shower pan. There are a couple of types of bondo: one with
fiberglass reinforcement and one without. The fiberglass kind comes in
two different chop lengths- "kitty hair" is the long strands (~1-2"),
and I can't remember what the shorter shop is called. The fiberglass
strands act as a terrific reinforcer, but makes the material difficult
to work with. For anything less than a 1" hole I certainly wouldn't use
the kitty hair. It's kind of like trying to trowel smooth a fur ball
mixed with Elmer's glue (sorry for the visual..).
If you do use the short chop for it's gap bridging and strength
characteristics, be sure to buy some of the non-glassed material to do
a finish coat with. The fiberglass does not finish by itself to a
smooth, paintable surface.
Regards,
Chris Koehn
'79 @ 31' Int'l
WBCCI 8638
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 08:34:42 -0500
From: "Bud Jostrand" <bjostrand@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #224
Stan,
I had the same problem when I refurbished a 73, 31 Ft. A/S. I wanted to
keep the awning and used 2.5 to 3 inches 1/8 inch aluminum square to mount
the awning support and then to the trailer. This worked very well and looked
good.
Bud J
82 280 Turbo Diesel
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 09:06:45 -0500
From: Graeme Thickins <graeme@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Electrical weirdities....
Hi, everyone.... (this was a post I thought I sent early Saturday
morning, but I noticed today I'd sent it to "val-digest@" by just
hitting reply....duh!)
Well, my "new" 1967 Safari International (22-ft) is home safe in my
driveway in Minnesota, after my inaugural pull last weekend from just
south of Madison, WI, via Interstate 94 -- in some gnarly winds the
first third of the way, I might add! (Thank God for anti-sway bars,
and *one more* strategic tightening soon after starting out.) The
previous owners were nice enough to drive from Grand Rapids, MI, to
meet me halfway, then spend two hours going through everything with me.
Great people, who love buying and restoring old trailers as a hobby
(been doing it for years). They're very well plugged into the vintage
trailer community in Michigan.
This Safari is in amazing condition, and they put a lot of TLC into
her. I'm so glad to have such a fine example of a vintage Airstream!
I put up a quick web page a while back, with six or seven shots the
previous owners took of her:
http://www.gtamarketing.com/1967AirstreamSafari.html
Now the fun begins. Starting the process of stripping the clearcoat
today -- and thanks to all the great advice I got from three VAListers
with personal experience on that! Plus a very helpful sales engineer
named David Hunter at Napier Environmental Technologies (based in
Vancouver, BC -- but he's located in Atlanta), which makes the
excellent stripping product that was recommended to me. I was able to
find it at a local paint store, thanks to him.
But back to a pesky problem that surfaced soon after I got her home and
plugged her in. All the lights and the two built-in radios (a
push-button AM and a separate FM stereo/8-track) worked fine when
hooked up to the vehicle. But when plugged into the house AC, the
stereo (which I turned on first) would suddenly shut off when I
switched on one of the original, wall-mounted reading lights up front.
And another time (as I recall), I think the same thing happened when I
flipped on one of the two original ceiling fans (which both work
great). Now the FM stereo won't work at all -- though everything else
appears to.
The previous owner had installed a new power converter, which he showed
me -- accessible in the cabinet under the bathroom sink. (It still had
the price tag on it: $220.) So, the first thing I did was pull the
three fuses inside it to see if I'd blown one. No dice -- they all
appear fine.
I suppose I should unplug the trailer from the garage AC and plug it
back into my vehicle, to see if anything changes? (I tried -- it was
the same.) Another weird thing I remember when I FIRST got it home and
unhooked the cord from the truck -- none of the lights or radios worked
on just the trailer battery. How could that be, since it looks really
new? (It's a big marine type.) Then, when I plugged the trailer into
the AC in my garage, the lights and radio still didn't work -- but all
the AC outlets in the trailer did! I tried switching the four circuit
breakers on the main box on and off (to reset), then pulled and checked
the three fuses inside the converter box (as I stated above). After
that, when I checked again, suddenly everything worked fine!
Strange... Till I switched on one of the lights, then the FM radio
went out.
I did notice when turning on some of the very cool twin-cone,
wall-mounted reading lights (the trailer has three sets of these) that
they didn't all light up instantly -- there was a bit of a hesitation
with some, like there might be a loose connection inside, or a bad
switch. They each have a swivel-ball base, which has also loosened up
over time somewhat. But those couple of lights did flicker on after a
half-second or so, then stayed on. (I learned they have three or four
wattage levels in each bulb, which all seem to work.)
Anyway, I know I can hear the list collectively saying now, "Welcome to
wonderful world of trailer wiring!" I'm no electrician, but I guess
I'm capable of pulling the light fixtures and looking inside for
obvious shorts. But the weird thing is, why is the FM stereo/8-track
not working? When everything else now is? And the three fuses inside
the converter still look fine. Hope I didn't blowout that old fella!
(Especially since my wife bought me a big collection of '60s and '70s
8-track tapes on eBay for my birthday!) I bought replacements for the
three fuses at RadioShack to see if that made a difference -- it
didn't.
Any other thoughts or ideas from the group would be appreciated. Could
the new converter be screwed up somehow? And not charging the battery?
(It's not an exact match to the original, the previous owner told me,
because I think he said this was as close as he could get.) I suppose
I should get the model number off of it, to see if any list members
know this particular unit. And maybe I should test the battery somehow
- -- possibly I should try charging it with a trickle charger I have?
But do I have to unhook the wire that goes to the power converter when
I do that? I thought that was supposed to be continuously charging the
battery when the trailer's plugged into AC current, right? And it sure
doesn't appear to be -- or else the battery's shot. I may have more
than one problem going on here....
More later. Get this: the weekend temps here are soaring into the 70s
and 80s! So I'm headed out right now to strip clearcoat....and get one
of those patented Airstream reflector tans while I'm at it :-)
best regards,
Graeme Thickins
Bloomington, MN
'67 Safari Twin "International"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 11:19:57 -0400
From: praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAC site at International
Does anyone know the exact address of the meeting spot for the VAC before the
parade into the International? I broke down while at Myrtle Beach and bought a
Magellan 700 Roadmate for GPS mapping. Not having a navigator with me makes it
difficult to read maps while driving!
Patti
Return-path: <domo@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 00:00:03 -0600
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com (VAL Digest)
Subject: VAL Digest V1 #224
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VAL Digest Wednesday, April 21 2004 Volume 01 : Number 224
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] replacement A/C
[VAL] Re: Polishing
Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
[VAL] Site
RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
Re: [VAL] skin repair
RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
Re: [VAL] replacement A/C
Re: [VAL] skin repair
RE: [VAL] Re: Polishing
[VAL] 1967 Airstream
Re: [VAL] skin repair -- a link to an aluminum welding discussion.
Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
[VAL] Wheels
Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
Re: [VAL] skin repair
Re: [VAL] shower resufacing
[VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
Re: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
Re: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
Re: [VAL] skin repair
[VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 02:04:56 -0400
From: "Bobby Gill" <gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] replacement A/C
Pete
You will find very few A/C units with a drip pan.
The Dometic Duo-Therm Penguin is available with or without the drip pan.
You will want the drip pan. The roof opening will stay the same size.
If you don't want to mess with it take it to Walt Barksdale in Ocala.
If you need his number let me know and I'll get it for you.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Ryner<mailto:pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: Airstream<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 9:56 AM
Subject: [VAL] replacement A/C
I know this subject has been brought up before, but I didn't pay attention
as I didn't have a problem. Well it is time to replace my old air
conditioner. The fan motor locks up. I know I could probably just get a
new motor, but I want to put a higher effeciency model in as I boondock
sometimes, but still want to run the air off generator(s). I looked at a
Coleman yesterday and was told that there is no pan or drain. It just goes
over the side of the trailer. Not sure I like that arrangement. Does
anyone make a pan setup for use with modern air conditioners? I already
know I have to cut a larger hole. Any experience in doing that?
BTW, please contact me off list if you are interested in an original '68
A/C
unit. As I said, the fan motor freezes up, but the compressor works well
and it cools very well with the fan running.
TIA
Pete
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- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 07:23:02 -0400
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Polishing
Toby, Good idea! The drill is pulling away from me. I'll try the cyclo
and see if it does the same job as the drill.
Ken, I am pushing hard, trying to get at those pock marks. But if you
think it may be hopeless I'll be less of a perfectionist. I am cleaning
the area with soapy water and wiping down after finishing a section. I
can't believe how black it gets!!!
Pearl goes to Trailer City today to swap out the new Atwood 6 gal. hot
water heater for another 6 gal BUT with an inside electronic switch and
an automatic relight devise. I found down at Myrtle Beach that the
flame goes out with just a little bit of wind and at the least
opportune time. (found no hot water when soaped up in shower!) They'll
give me credit for the one installed now. I'm also adding the heat pump
to the Penquin Air conditioner. The $ never stops!
Patti
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:53:18 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
Patti, I have the electronic Atwood that you are having installed. Very
convenient when it works but I don't know what to do when it doesn't. Mine
has given me a scare a couple of times but eventually lighted itself. I feel
more secure with a match.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 7:23 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Polishing
> Toby, Good idea! The drill is pulling away from me. I'll try the cyclo
> and see if it does the same job as the drill.
>
> Ken, I am pushing hard, trying to get at those pock marks. But if you
> think it may be hopeless I'll be less of a perfectionist. I am cleaning
> the area with soapy water and wiping down after finishing a section. I
> can't believe how black it gets!!!
>
> Pearl goes to Trailer City today to swap out the new Atwood 6 gal. hot
> water heater for another 6 gal BUT with an inside electronic switch and
> an automatic relight devise. I found down at Myrtle Beach that the
> flame goes out with just a little bit of wind and at the least
> opportune time. (found no hot water when soaped up in shower!) They'll
> give me credit for the one installed now. I'm also adding the heat pump
> to the Penquin Air conditioner. The $ never stops!
>
> Patti
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 07:57:42 -0600
From: Michael & Tracy Bertch <scrapirony@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Site
Thanks, Tom! I think thats it!
Has anyone ever dealt with them?
Tracy Bertch
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:57:01 -0400
From: "Tricia & Conrad Holsomback" <triconholsomback@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
Bobby said "You will find very few A/C units with a drip pan.
The Dometic Duo-Therm Penguin is available with or without the drip pan.
You will want the drip pan. The roof opening will stay the same size.
If you don't want to mess with it take it to Walt Barksdale in Ocala.
If you need his number let me know and I'll get it for you."
Pete,
We can second that recommendation. Walt installed a Dometic on our '83
after 3 years of our babying and fixing the old one. The drip pan comes
from Airstream who told us Coleman changed the bolt arrangement so they
only make one that fits Dometic.
You really don't want that water dripping down the side. While we were
at Port O Call in Melbourne we saw many with the water going over the
side and the aluminum looked terrible.
Tricia & Conrad
- - ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:07:05 -0500
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
How about the soldering process that is demo'ed at the flea markets and at
the RV shows.... I have been tempted to try it , but so far not enough ....
Jim
At 12:56 AM 4/20/2004, you wrote:
>Need 6061 to weld
>
>Bobby
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Chris Elliott<mailto:celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 10:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
>
>
> It dosnt weld ,it cracks .
> Chris
>
> Toby Folwick wrote:
>
> > ...or you can find a good aluminum welder if your
> > area. I'm not sure how well t3 2024 welds, but you
> > could ask around!
> >
> > Toby
> >
> > --- T
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html<http://www.tompatter
>son.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>
>
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- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:25:39 -0500
From: "Buddy" <buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
FWIW, I had a 15k btu coleman installed on my 31' with the AS drip pan & the
installer was able to use the factory drip line that was with the original
Armstrong AC.
Works Great.
Buddy Atwood
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 10:33:14 -0400
From: "bob stockdale" <bobstock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] replacement A/C
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tricia & Conrad Holsomback" <triconholsomback@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
> Bobby said "You will find very few A/C units with a drip pan.
> The Dometic Duo-Therm Penguin is available with or without the drip pan.
> You will want the drip pan. The roof opening will stay the same size.
> If you don't want to mess with it take it to Walt Barksdale in Ocala.
> If you need his number let me know and I'll get it for you."
>
> Pete,
> We can second that recommendation. Walt installed a Dometic on our '83
> after 3 years of our babying and fixing the old one. The drip pan comes
> from Airstream who told us Coleman changed the bolt arrangement so they
> only make one that fits Dometic.
> You really don't want that water dripping down the side. While we were
> at Port O Call in Melbourne we saw many with the water going over the
> side and the aluminum looked terrible.
>
> Tricia & Conrad
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.659 / Virus Database: 423 - Release Date: 4/15/2004
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:06:34 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
A significant hazard with welding or "soldering" aluminum skin in place
is the insulation and wiring inside the wall. Aluminum conducts heat
very well, third best metal behind silver and copper. The wiring
insulation can only handle maybe 60 degrees C while operating. It
softens significantly at the boiling point of water. Welding is going to
be heating the weld point up to nearly the melting point of aluminum and
some of the "soldering" processes get nearly that hot. I recall using
such a soldering process decades ago on a screen frame that I'd made a
couple inches two short. Just seconds after the "solder" flowed, a chunk
of the aluminum melted and fell to the ground.
Then there are the fiberglass insulation batts. The fiberglass won't
burn but the organic binding that holds things together will and will
flash. A fire in the wall is not beneficial to the Airstream.
I don't know about only 6061 alloy aluminum being weldable. Surely the
3003 essentially unalloyed aluminums are weldable too. The 2024 (and
most 6061) are significantly heat treated and heating for welding or
brazing will change that heat treat. In addition 2024 is an age
hardening aluminum that gets tougher with age after if left the last
heat treat furnace and eventually it only breaks, won't bend. It (and
6061) are very nice at machining though. The vintage Airstream skin is
Alclad, 2024 in the middle, and plain unalloyed aluminum on the skin,
That's what makes it so polish able, and at the same time makes it least
likely to develop pits. Alloyed aluminum in the weather for decades
develops pits from dissimilar metals corrosion from the alloying
constituents.
As for the "soldering" process, I'd just as soon use Bondo, the color
match won't be any worse and it doesn't use any heat. Soldering to
aluminum has always been a problem because aluminum develops a oxide
skin virtually instantly on exposure to air and that oxide skin repels
solders. Most "soldering" processes that work a little require
scratching through that oxide while its under the blob of solder. There
is a flux known as Salmet that is supposed to work with aluminum, works
with thin aluminum and ordinary electrical solder, but the lead/tin
solder next to the aluminum is going to corrode apart in the weather.
Gerald J.
- - --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:34:08 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <timshephard@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: Polishing
I just installed the pilot model Atwood last summer and had problems with it
blowing out.
I added a rubber/foam weather strip to the bottom of the door cover and that
has fixed the problem. When the door is closed you cannot see it but it
seals up the opening at the bottom that allowed for an updraft that would
blow out the pilot.
We were out for three days last week and it did not go out once.
I also always run the hot water a little before showering to help ease my
mind ;-)
- - -Tim
- - -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of Jim Greene
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 6:53 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
Patti, I have the electronic Atwood that you are having installed. Very
convenient when it works but I don't know what to do when it doesn't. Mine
has given me a scare a couple of times but eventually lighted itself. I feel
more secure with a match.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 7:23 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Polishing
> Toby, Good idea! The drill is pulling away from me. I'll try the cyclo
> and see if it does the same job as the drill.
>
> Ken, I am pushing hard, trying to get at those pock marks. But if you
> think it may be hopeless I'll be less of a perfectionist. I am cleaning
> the area with soapy water and wiping down after finishing a section. I
> can't believe how black it gets!!!
>
> Pearl goes to Trailer City today to swap out the new Atwood 6 gal. hot
> water heater for another 6 gal BUT with an inside electronic switch and
> an automatic relight devise. I found down at Myrtle Beach that the
> flame goes out with just a little bit of wind and at the least
> opportune time. (found no hot water when soaped up in shower!) They'll
> give me credit for the one installed now. I'm also adding the heat pump
> to the Penquin Air conditioner. The $ never stops!
>
> Patti
- - -----------------------------------------------------------------
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- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:40:56 -0700
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
My SO and I went and really checked out the airstream that we had bought
*last spring* with the idea of actually hitching a truck to it, and towing
it home! It has been licensed for a year...
We are really pleased with the shape that it is in, and the previous owner
very thoughtfully labeled all of the switches, plugs, and wires, even if it
is marked unknown. The most obvious problem is that the toilet is not
attached, or even in, the trailer. There are two toilets under the trailer,
one porcelain, and one plastic. No idea which one to put in at them moment,
I will have to take a closer look. Supposedly, there is a leak under/behind
the sink, but we don't know which sink, or where it is from. Something else
to look for when we actually get it home.
I had a look at the axle (single), and it seems to have the arm thingy
pointing in the right direction, which is pointed downwards to the back,
right? (Please?) Really don't wish to replace an axle. While we were poking
around inside, we came across a large box with small boxes in it, and
inside the boxes are bearings! Looks like some bearings have been replaced.
Also found a bottle jack, though without a handle.
Anything else that I should be aware of in this particular year of trailer?
I had thought that it was a 68 or 69, so I had been paying attention to
those years!
We do have plans on taking this thing camping this year, even if we have to
camp in it in our yard!
Sharon, in BC, a long ways from anywhere!
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:12:01 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair -- a link to an aluminum welding discussion.
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/MachineryTalk/posts/4638.html
Gerald J.
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 10:48:49 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
> Anything else that I should be aware of in this particular year of
trailer?
> I had thought that it was a 68 or 69, so I had been paying attention to
> those years!
> Sharon, in BC, a long ways from anywhere!
Hi Sharon:
Welcome to the group. An excellent choice of year if I do say so myself.
You should tell us what model it is. You mentioned a single axle, so it is
no larger than a Safari 22, perhaps a Globetrotter 20, or maybe a Caravel
17. As for the toilet (s): one would not be difficult to reinstall (2
flange bolts to hold it down - water is an option) but since you are from
the chilly NW there is a chance the water system was frozen at one time.
Proceed carefully and slowly and check it for leaks.
Re: '68 or '69. This '67 you have is nearly identical to the '68. The
models changed considerably in '69.
Have fun and good luck with it,
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:10:31 -0400
From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
Patti,
You better get it nice and shiny or I won't let you tow it down our
dusty road.
Matt
Patricia V. Raimondo wrote:
<snip>
But if you think it may be hopeless I'll be less of a perfectionist.
<snip>
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:40:37 -0700
From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
Right, model helps...it is a Safari, with International on the side.
Frozen pipes are a possiblity, but pretty remote from what we know of the
previous owners. They were a little particular about stuff. The PO is a
friend of a friend, so is know to us.
Sharon, in BC
>Welcome to the group. An excellent choice of year if I do say so myself.
>You should tell us what model it is. You mentioned a single axle, so it is
>no larger than a Safari 22, perhaps a Globetrotter 20, or maybe a Caravel
>17. As for the toilet (s): one would not be difficult to reinstall (2
>flange bolts to hold it down - water is an option) but since you are from
>the chilly NW there is a chance the water system was frozen at one time.
>Proceed carefully and slowly and check it for leaks.
>
>Re: '68 or '69. This '67 you have is nearly identical to the '68. The
>models changed considerably in '69.
>
>Have fun and good luck with it,
>
>GQ '67 Safari
>4082 in CA
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 15:29:55 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Wheels
Hi All,
I am in need of two wheels to replace the split rims on our 57
Overlander. Have tried early Chev truck tires with six lugs but the
backside of the rim isn't flat and thus won't allow me to use the
Centramatic wheel balancers. Anyone have any suggestions?? Thanks.
Jerry
WBCCI VAC
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 15:53:32 -0500
From: "James C. Funderburg, MD, FACS" <funderbj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
Sharon Chaytor wrote:
[snip]
> wires, even if it is marked unknown. The most obvious problem is that
> the toilet is not attached, or even in, the trailer. There are two
> toilets under the trailer, one porcelain, and one plastic. No idea
Sharon,
As a temporary expedient, for less than $100 USD, you can buy a
"porta-potty" to use for a toilet. You could even set it up in a pop-up
ground blind, used for hunting, outside the trailer. These cost about $50.
Of course, that would mean you would have an "outhouse".
JimF - a pilgrim still <*}}}><
Waterproof, Louisiana
"Preserve game, use a trained dog."
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 16:11:09 -0600
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
<As for the "soldering" process, I'd just as soon use Bondo, the color
match won't be any worse and it doesn't use any heat>
hello dr gerald,
i had had the idea of using bondo on some holes that had previously had
fasteners holding awning brackets. these holes have been "hogged" out from
the fastener being loose and are about 3/8" in diameter.....larger than any
rivet that i have access to. have you had any experience in using bondo for
such repairs. any problem with the hot and cold, shrink and expanding of the
aluminum with the bondo?
harry truitt
66 safari
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:20:42 -0400
From: "Nick & Ruth Warren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] shower resufacing
Gary,
I recently re-surfaced the tub and adjacent wall in our 61 Tradewind. I
used Bondo Auto filler for the hairline ( and not so hairline) cracks,
sanded and then sprayed three cans of auto paint over the tub and wall,
actuall it wasn't auto paint although I got it from our local auto store, it
was an enamel spray especially formulated for many common outdoor materials
(primarily plastic, wood, metal). I taped sheets of news paper over the
surrounding walls and did it before the floor was laid. I had very little
overspray and with a dust sheet taped up you'd really be able to control it.
It looks brand new and has stood up to the last three weeks beach camping
very well, no chips from dropping the shampoo or scratches from the three
tons of sand we carry in each day.
I can e-mail pics if you want to see the result.
Good luck,
Ruth Warren & The Tin Can Clan.
Currently in Siesta Key, Florida.
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:16:29 -0500
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
Here's an Olympic rivet question: I need to replace a window in our '79
@ 31'. I've found the bulb type rivets on rivets plus.com, but the
shaver sells for lots o' money- and I'm not interested in making that
big of an investment for such a small project. So my question is- are
shaved rivets superior to unshaved ones in any way, or is it purely
aesthetics? Can anyone recommend a rivet that will function well and
look reasonably similar to existing?
Thanks for all the help I've gotten in the past and will undoubtedly
get in the future! we are approaching completion of our trailer update
and will post pictures soon.
Chris Koehn
VA member, and WBCCI 8638
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 17:00:20 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
> Here's an Olympic rivet question: I need to replace a window in our '79
> @ 31'. I've found the bulb type rivets on rivets plus.com, but the
> shaver sells for lots o' money- and I'm not interested in making that
> big of an investment for such a small project. So my question is- are
> shaved rivets superior to unshaved ones in any way, or is it purely
> aesthetics? Can anyone recommend a rivet that will function well and
> look reasonably similar to existing?
> Chris Koehn
Hi Chris:
You can use the Olympics without the shaver, especially if you are only
talking about a few. After pulling up the rivet, cut off the shank as close
as you can with a side cutter. Then take your Dremel tool with a sanding
drum installed on it and carefully knock of the rest of the shank until it
blends in with the round cap of the rivet. It won't be as good as the
shaver could do, but if you are careful, it will be PD good. And
undetectable if you don't look close. Remember to take off the EPDM washer
so the head lays down nice and flat.
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 22:17:12 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
Chris -
I bought a used cleco rivet gun and a rivet buck with several heads on
ebay for less than half of a rivet shaver . The down side is you must
access the back side to buck the rivet . The good part is they are stronger
and its kind of fun .The rivets are cheap too , sold by the 1/4 lb about
$5.00
Chris 63 flyin cloud
Chris Koehn wrote:
> Here's an Olympic rivet question: I need to replace a window in our '79
> @ 31'. I've found the bulb type rivets on rivets plus.com, but the
> shaver sells for lots o' money- and I'm not interested in making that
> big of an investment for such a small project. So my question is- are
> shaved rivets superior to unshaved ones in any way, or is it purely
> aesthetics? Can anyone recommend a rivet that will function well and
> look reasonably similar to existing?
>
> Thanks for all the help I've gotten in the past and will undoubtedly
> get in the future! we are approaching completion of our trailer update
> and will post pictures soon.
>
> Chris Koehn
> VA member, and WBCCI 8638
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 20:35:51 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
I've not actually used Bondo, but my uncle used to use it by the bucket
in his auto body shop. Working with aluminum, I'd want to taper the hole
so a plug couldn't fall in (I might dimple it a little from the outside
or bevel it with a countersink), then I'd clean it to as close to bare
metal as possible, and as soon as the solvent dried, I'd apply the Bondo
to the clean surface pushing a wad through the hole to make a blob on
the back side. I might consider looking for an aluminum metal filled
epoxy maybe from Devcon. That would be a closer match to the aluminum
skin temperature coefficients, and might not be too poor a color match.
Gerald J.
- - --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 22:10:47 -0700
From: Gary Heebner <nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
Hi to all,
The Airstream in the gondola is too cool!! I live in central BC and near the headwaters
of the mighty Fraser in the Rockies, so the scenery is all too familiar. Just south of
here, there is still a cable ferry that makes daily crossings, so farmers on the west
side can access Hwy 97. If you go north to Alaska, there's a good chance that you'll
follow the river for at least a day if you follow Hwy 97 from Oregon to northern BC. The
US rv's are already rolling through town (still waiting to see some Airstreams)!
Gary Heebner
Prince George BC
'77 31'
- ------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #224
*************************
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 11:40:50 -0400
From: Okydokey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Wheels
Hi Jerry,
I replaced the split rims on our '55 with Dexter Axle Co. 2600# wheels, 6 bolt pattern,
worked great. I unfortunately cannot find my paperwork, but Dexter Axle has a website
with all their part numbers.
Jason Jablonski
#15562 '55 30' Liner
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 10:10:06 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Electrical weirdities....
If the wiring in your '67 is like that in my '68, its bare aluminum.
Connections are tenuous at best. You may have to dig out all the
connections and redo them with wire nuts rated for aluminum wire. Those
wire nuts are uncommon and relatively expensive. I've found them at Home
Depot for something like $14.97 a pack of ten. Ideal catalog number
30-765, Home Depot SKU 415799. An Anti-Oxidant compound for aluminum
connections like Noalox is of great benefit. Because of the thermal
expansion of aluminum and the softness of aluminum connections made for
copper tend to lead to open circuits when used with aluminum wire.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 11:04:27 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: alternative to shaved rivets? (follow up)
> THANK YOU GQ and Chris- I appreciate the advice. Two more questions:
> Are Olympic rivets installable with a standard rivet gun? I have a
> pretty good one made by Arrow. And I do have access to the back of the
> rivet.
> What's the consensus on dabbing a little Vulkem behind the rivet head?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chris Koehn
> '79 @ 31' Int'l
> WBCCI 8638
Hi again Chris:
Sure, a regular gun is good. They usually come with a reversable head with
a large and small hole to accomodate the shanks of 1/8" and 3/16" pop
rivets. The larger hole will do an Olympic. Since the Olympic is pretty
long you will have to take an extra pull or two, but that's about the only
difference.
Re: the Vulkem, sure why not. Can't hurt.
But now that you mentioned that you have access to the back side, perhaps
another type of rivet might be to your advantage. I'll send you a picture
of a pulled up Olympic and you can see that it is really a glorified "molly"
sort of thing. Great if you don't have access to the back. I suppose that
bucked rivets would be better if you do. I don't have any experience with
those.
Perhaps someone can offer a suggestion for that.
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 15:18:41 -0400
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAC site at International
Patti,
They are meeting at a shopping center south of I-69, Exit 85 if I'm not
mistaken.
Do you need the shopping center address itself?
Tom
P.S. I'm NW of you by about 4 hours, if you can't find all the help you need
please contact me.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2004 11:19 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAC site at International
| Does anyone know the exact address of the meeting spot for the VAC before
the parade into the International? I broke down while at Myrtle Beach and
bought a Magellan 700 Roadmate for GPS mapping. Not having a navigator with
me makes it difficult to read maps while driving!
|
| Patti
| Return-path: <domo@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Received: from mta26.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (mta26.srv.hcvlny.cv.net
| [167.206.5.187]) by mstr4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (iPlanet Messaging Server
| 5.2 HotFix 1.25 (built Mar 3 2004)) with ESMTP id
| <0HWI00GIPCMDAA@mstr4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> for praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net;
| Wed, 21 Apr 2004 02:27:49 -0400 (EDT)
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| (built Mar 3 2004)) with ESMTP id
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| Apr 2004 00:00:03 -0600
| Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 00:00:03 -0600
| From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com (VAL Digest)
| Subject: VAL Digest V1 #224
| Sender: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
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|
| VAL Digest Wednesday, April 21 2004 Volume 01 : Number
224
|
|
|
|
| -----------------------------------------------------------------
| When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
|
| To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
| http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|
| Topics in Today's Digest:
|
| Re: [VAL] replacement A/C
| [VAL] Re: Polishing
| Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
| [VAL] Site
| RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
| Re: [VAL] skin repair
| RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
| Re: [VAL] replacement A/C
| Re: [VAL] skin repair
| RE: [VAL] Re: Polishing
| [VAL] 1967 Airstream
| Re: [VAL] skin repair -- a link to an aluminum welding discussion.
| Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
| Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
| Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
| [VAL] Wheels
| Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
| Re: [VAL] skin repair
| Re: [VAL] shower resufacing
| [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
| Re: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
| Re: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
| Re: [VAL] skin repair
| [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
|
| ----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 02:04:56 -0400
| From: "Bobby Gill" <gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] replacement A/C
|
| Pete
| You will find very few A/C units with a drip pan.
| The Dometic Duo-Therm Penguin is available with or without the drip pan.
| You will want the drip pan. The roof opening will stay the same size.
| If you don't want to mess with it take it to Walt Barksdale in Ocala.
| If you need his number let me know and I'll get it for you.
|
| Bobby
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: Peter Ryner<mailto:pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| To: Airstream<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 9:56 AM
| Subject: [VAL] replacement A/C
|
|
| I know this subject has been brought up before, but I didn't pay
attention
| as I didn't have a problem. Well it is time to replace my old air
| conditioner. The fan motor locks up. I know I could probably just get
a
| new motor, but I want to put a higher effeciency model in as I boondock
| sometimes, but still want to run the air off generator(s). I looked at
a
| Coleman yesterday and was told that there is no pan or drain. It just
goes
| over the side of the trailer. Not sure I like that arrangement. Does
| anyone make a pan setup for use with modern air conditioners? I already
| know I have to cut a larger hole. Any experience in doing that?
| BTW, please contact me off list if you are interested in an original '68
| A/C
| unit. As I said, the fan motor freezes up, but the compressor works
well
| and it cools very well with the fan running.
| TIA
| Pete
|
| -----------------------------------------------------------------
| When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
|
| To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
|
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html<http://www.tompatter
| son.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 07:23:02 -0400
| From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: [VAL] Re: Polishing
|
| Toby, Good idea! The drill is pulling away from me. I'll try the cyclo
| and see if it does the same job as the drill.
|
| Ken, I am pushing hard, trying to get at those pock marks. But if you
| think it may be hopeless I'll be less of a perfectionist. I am cleaning
| the area with soapy water and wiping down after finishing a section. I
| can't believe how black it gets!!!
|
| Pearl goes to Trailer City today to swap out the new Atwood 6 gal. hot
| water heater for another 6 gal BUT with an inside electronic switch and
| an automatic relight devise. I found down at Myrtle Beach that the
| flame goes out with just a little bit of wind and at the least
| opportune time. (found no hot water when soaped up in shower!) They'll
| give me credit for the one installed now. I'm also adding the heat pump
| to the Penquin Air conditioner. The $ never stops!
|
| Patti
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:53:18 -0400
| From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
|
| Patti, I have the electronic Atwood that you are having installed. Very
| convenient when it works but I don't know what to do when it doesn't. Mine
| has given me a scare a couple of times but eventually lighted itself. I
feel
| more secure with a match.
|
| Jim Greene
| ' 68 Tradewind
|
| - ----- Original Message -----
| From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 7:23 AM
| Subject: [VAL] Re: Polishing
|
|
| > Toby, Good idea! The drill is pulling away from me. I'll try the cyclo
| > and see if it does the same job as the drill.
| >
| > Ken, I am pushing hard, trying to get at those pock marks. But if you
| > think it may be hopeless I'll be less of a perfectionist. I am cleaning
| > the area with soapy water and wiping down after finishing a section. I
| > can't believe how black it gets!!!
| >
| > Pearl goes to Trailer City today to swap out the new Atwood 6 gal. hot
| > water heater for another 6 gal BUT with an inside electronic switch and
| > an automatic relight devise. I found down at Myrtle Beach that the
| > flame goes out with just a little bit of wind and at the least
| > opportune time. (found no hot water when soaped up in shower!) They'll
| > give me credit for the one installed now. I'm also adding the heat pump
| > to the Penquin Air conditioner. The $ never stops!
| >
| > Patti
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 07:57:42 -0600
| From: Michael & Tracy Bertch <scrapirony@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: [VAL] Site
|
| Thanks, Tom! I think thats it!
|
| Has anyone ever dealt with them?
|
|
| Tracy Bertch
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:57:01 -0400
| From: "Tricia & Conrad Holsomback" <triconholsomback@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
|
| Bobby said "You will find very few A/C units with a drip pan.
| The Dometic Duo-Therm Penguin is available with or without the drip pan.
| You will want the drip pan. The roof opening will stay the same size.
| If you don't want to mess with it take it to Walt Barksdale in Ocala.
| If you need his number let me know and I'll get it for you."
|
| Pete,
| We can second that recommendation. Walt installed a Dometic on our '83
| after 3 years of our babying and fixing the old one. The drip pan comes
| from Airstream who told us Coleman changed the bolt arrangement so they
| only make one that fits Dometic.
| You really don't want that water dripping down the side. While we were
| at Port O Call in Melbourne we saw many with the water going over the
| side and the aluminum looked terrible.
|
| Tricia & Conrad
|
|
| - ---
| Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
| Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
| Version: 6.0.659 / Virus Database: 423 - Release Date: 4/15/2004
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:07:05 -0500
| From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
|
| How about the soldering process that is demo'ed at the flea markets and at
| the RV shows.... I have been tempted to try it , but so far not enough
....
|
| Jim
|
|
|
| At 12:56 AM 4/20/2004, you wrote:
| >Need 6061 to weld
| >
| >Bobby
| > ----- Original Message -----
| > From: Chris Elliott<mailto:celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| > Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 10:58 PM
| > Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
| >
| >
| > It dosnt weld ,it cracks .
| > Chris
| >
| > Toby Folwick wrote:
| >
| > > ...or you can find a good aluminum welder if your
| > > area. I'm not sure how well t3 2024 welds, but you
| > > could ask around!
| > >
| > > Toby
| > >
| > > --- T
| >
| > -----------------------------------------------------------------
| > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
| >
| > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
| >
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html<http://www.tompatter
| >son.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>
| >
| >-----------------------------------------------------------------
| >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
| >
| >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
| >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:25:39 -0500
| From: "Buddy" <buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
|
| FWIW, I had a 15k btu coleman installed on my 31' with the AS drip pan &
the
| installer was able to use the factory drip line that was with the original
| Armstrong AC.
|
| Works Great.
|
| Buddy Atwood
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 10:33:14 -0400
| From: "bob stockdale" <bobstock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] replacement A/C
|
| - ----- Original Message -----
| From: "Tricia & Conrad Holsomback" <triconholsomback@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:57 AM
| Subject: RE: [VAL] replacement A/C
|
|
| > Bobby said "You will find very few A/C units with a drip pan.
| > The Dometic Duo-Therm Penguin is available with or without the drip pan.
| > You will want the drip pan. The roof opening will stay the same size.
| > If you don't want to mess with it take it to Walt Barksdale in Ocala.
| > If you need his number let me know and I'll get it for you."
| >
| > Pete,
| > We can second that recommendation. Walt installed a Dometic on our '83
| > after 3 years of our babying and fixing the old one. The drip pan comes
| > from Airstream who told us Coleman changed the bolt arrangement so they
| > only make one that fits Dometic.
| > You really don't want that water dripping down the side. While we were
| > at Port O Call in Melbourne we saw many with the water going over the
| > side and the aluminum looked terrible.
| >
| > Tricia & Conrad
| >
| >
| > ---
| > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
| > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
| > Version: 6.0.659 / Virus Database: 423 - Release Date: 4/15/2004
| >
| > -----------------------------------------------------------------
| > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
| >
| > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
| > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:06:34 -0500
| From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
|
| A significant hazard with welding or "soldering" aluminum skin in place
| is the insulation and wiring inside the wall. Aluminum conducts heat
| very well, third best metal behind silver and copper. The wiring
| insulation can only handle maybe 60 degrees C while operating. It
| softens significantly at the boiling point of water. Welding is going to
| be heating the weld point up to nearly the melting point of aluminum and
| some of the "soldering" processes get nearly that hot. I recall using
| such a soldering process decades ago on a screen frame that I'd made a
| couple inches two short. Just seconds after the "solder" flowed, a chunk
| of the aluminum melted and fell to the ground.
|
| Then there are the fiberglass insulation batts. The fiberglass won't
| burn but the organic binding that holds things together will and will
| flash. A fire in the wall is not beneficial to the Airstream.
|
| I don't know about only 6061 alloy aluminum being weldable. Surely the
| 3003 essentially unalloyed aluminums are weldable too. The 2024 (and
| most 6061) are significantly heat treated and heating for welding or
| brazing will change that heat treat. In addition 2024 is an age
| hardening aluminum that gets tougher with age after if left the last
| heat treat furnace and eventually it only breaks, won't bend. It (and
| 6061) are very nice at machining though. The vintage Airstream skin is
| Alclad, 2024 in the middle, and plain unalloyed aluminum on the skin,
| That's what makes it so polish able, and at the same time makes it least
| likely to develop pits. Alloyed aluminum in the weather for decades
| develops pits from dissimilar metals corrosion from the alloying
| constituents.
|
| As for the "soldering" process, I'd just as soon use Bondo, the color
| match won't be any worse and it doesn't use any heat. Soldering to
| aluminum has always been a problem because aluminum develops a oxide
| skin virtually instantly on exposure to air and that oxide skin repels
| solders. Most "soldering" processes that work a little require
| scratching through that oxide while its under the blob of solder. There
| is a flux known as Salmet that is supposed to work with aluminum, works
| with thin aluminum and ordinary electrical solder, but the lead/tin
| solder next to the aluminum is going to corrode apart in the weather.
|
| Gerald J.
| - --
| Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
| Reproduction by permission only.
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:34:08 -0700
| From: "Tim Shephard" <timshephard@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: Polishing
|
| I just installed the pilot model Atwood last summer and had problems with
it
| blowing out.
|
| I added a rubber/foam weather strip to the bottom of the door cover and
that
| has fixed the problem. When the door is closed you cannot see it but it
| seals up the opening at the bottom that allowed for an updraft that would
| blow out the pilot.
|
| We were out for three days last week and it did not go out once.
|
| I also always run the hot water a little before showering to help ease my
| mind ;-)
|
| - -Tim
|
|
| - -----Original Message-----
| From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
| [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of Jim Greene
| Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 6:53 AM
| To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
| Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
|
|
| Patti, I have the electronic Atwood that you are having installed. Very
| convenient when it works but I don't know what to do when it doesn't. Mine
| has given me a scare a couple of times but eventually lighted itself. I
feel
| more secure with a match.
|
| Jim Greene
| ' 68 Tradewind
|
| - ----- Original Message -----
| From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 7:23 AM
| Subject: [VAL] Re: Polishing
|
|
| > Toby, Good idea! The drill is pulling away from me. I'll try the cyclo
| > and see if it does the same job as the drill.
| >
| > Ken, I am pushing hard, trying to get at those pock marks. But if you
| > think it may be hopeless I'll be less of a perfectionist. I am cleaning
| > the area with soapy water and wiping down after finishing a section. I
| > can't believe how black it gets!!!
| >
| > Pearl goes to Trailer City today to swap out the new Atwood 6 gal. hot
| > water heater for another 6 gal BUT with an inside electronic switch and
| > an automatic relight devise. I found down at Myrtle Beach that the
| > flame goes out with just a little bit of wind and at the least
| > opportune time. (found no hot water when soaped up in shower!) They'll
| > give me credit for the one installed now. I'm also adding the heat pump
| > to the Penquin Air conditioner. The $ never stops!
| >
| > Patti
|
| - -----------------------------------------------------------------
| When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
|
| To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
| http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 09:40:56 -0700
| From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Subject: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
|
| My SO and I went and really checked out the airstream that we had bought
| *last spring* with the idea of actually hitching a truck to it, and towing
| it home! It has been licensed for a year...
|
| We are really pleased with the shape that it is in, and the previous owner
| very thoughtfully labeled all of the switches, plugs, and wires, even if
it
| is marked unknown. The most obvious problem is that the toilet is not
| attached, or even in, the trailer. There are two toilets under the
trailer,
| one porcelain, and one plastic. No idea which one to put in at them
moment,
| I will have to take a closer look. Supposedly, there is a leak
under/behind
| the sink, but we don't know which sink, or where it is from. Something
else
| to look for when we actually get it home.
|
| I had a look at the axle (single), and it seems to have the arm thingy
| pointing in the right direction, which is pointed downwards to the back,
| right? (Please?) Really don't wish to replace an axle. While we were
poking
| around inside, we came across a large box with small boxes in it, and
| inside the boxes are bearings! Looks like some bearings have been
replaced.
| Also found a bottle jack, though without a handle.
|
| Anything else that I should be aware of in this particular year of
trailer?
| I had thought that it was a 68 or 69, so I had been paying attention to
| those years!
|
| We do have plans on taking this thing camping this year, even if we have
to
| camp in it in our yard!
|
| Sharon, in BC, a long ways from anywhere!
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:12:01 -0500
| From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair -- a link to an aluminum welding
discussion.
|
| http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/MachineryTalk/posts/4638.html
|
| Gerald J.
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 10:48:49 -0700
| From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
|
| > Anything else that I should be aware of in this particular year of
| trailer?
| > I had thought that it was a 68 or 69, so I had been paying attention to
| > those years!
|
| > Sharon, in BC, a long ways from anywhere!
|
| Hi Sharon:
|
| Welcome to the group. An excellent choice of year if I do say so myself.
| You should tell us what model it is. You mentioned a single axle, so it
is
| no larger than a Safari 22, perhaps a Globetrotter 20, or maybe a Caravel
| 17. As for the toilet (s): one would not be difficult to reinstall (2
| flange bolts to hold it down - water is an option) but since you are from
| the chilly NW there is a chance the water system was frozen at one time.
| Proceed carefully and slowly and check it for leaks.
|
| Re: '68 or '69. This '67 you have is nearly identical to the '68. The
| models changed considerably in '69.
|
| Have fun and good luck with it,
|
| GQ '67 Safari
| 4082 in CA
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:10:31 -0400
| From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Polishing
|
| Patti,
|
| You better get it nice and shiny or I won't let you tow it down our
| dusty road.
|
| Matt
|
| Patricia V. Raimondo wrote:
| <snip>
|
| But if you think it may be hopeless I'll be less of a perfectionist.
|
| <snip>
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:40:37 -0700
| From: Sharon Chaytor <sharonbc@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
|
| Right, model helps...it is a Safari, with International on the side.
|
| Frozen pipes are a possiblity, but pretty remote from what we know of the
| previous owners. They were a little particular about stuff. The PO is a
| friend of a friend, so is know to us.
|
| Sharon, in BC
|
|
| >Welcome to the group. An excellent choice of year if I do say so myself.
| >You should tell us what model it is. You mentioned a single axle, so it
is
| >no larger than a Safari 22, perhaps a Globetrotter 20, or maybe a Caravel
| >17. As for the toilet (s): one would not be difficult to reinstall (2
| >flange bolts to hold it down - water is an option) but since you are from
| >the chilly NW there is a chance the water system was frozen at one time.
| >Proceed carefully and slowly and check it for leaks.
| >
| >Re: '68 or '69. This '67 you have is nearly identical to the '68. The
| >models changed considerably in '69.
| >
| >Have fun and good luck with it,
| >
| >GQ '67 Safari
| >4082 in CA
| >
| >-----------------------------------------------------------------
| >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
| >
| >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
| >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 15:29:55 -0400
| From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: [VAL] Wheels
|
| Hi All,
| I am in need of two wheels to replace the split rims on our 57
| Overlander. Have tried early Chev truck tires with six lugs but the
| backside of the rim isn't flat and thus won't allow me to use the
| Centramatic wheel balancers. Anyone have any suggestions?? Thanks.
| Jerry
| WBCCI VAC
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 15:53:32 -0500
| From: "James C. Funderburg, MD, FACS" <funderbj@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] 1967 Airstream
|
| Sharon Chaytor wrote:
| [snip]
| > wires, even if it is marked unknown. The most obvious problem is that
| > the toilet is not attached, or even in, the trailer. There are two
| > toilets under the trailer, one porcelain, and one plastic. No idea
|
| Sharon,
| As a temporary expedient, for less than $100 USD, you can buy a
| "porta-potty" to use for a toilet. You could even set it up in a pop-up
| ground blind, used for hunting, outside the trailer. These cost about
$50.
| Of course, that would mean you would have an "outhouse".
|
| JimF - a pilgrim still <*}}}><
| Waterproof, Louisiana
| "Preserve game, use a trained dog."
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 16:11:09 -0600
| From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
|
| <As for the "soldering" process, I'd just as soon use Bondo, the color
| match won't be any worse and it doesn't use any heat>
|
| hello dr gerald,
| i had had the idea of using bondo on some holes that had previously had
| fasteners holding awning brackets. these holes have been "hogged" out from
| the fastener being loose and are about 3/8" in diameter.....larger than
any
| rivet that i have access to. have you had any experience in using bondo
for
| such repairs. any problem with the hot and cold, shrink and expanding of
the
| aluminum with the bondo?
| harry truitt
| 66 safari
| - ----- Original Message -----
| From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 8:06 AM
| Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
|
|
|
| >
| > -----------------------------------------------------------------
| > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
| >
| > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
| > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:20:42 -0400
| From: "Nick & Ruth Warren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] shower resufacing
|
| Gary,
|
| I recently re-surfaced the tub and adjacent wall in our 61 Tradewind. I
| used Bondo Auto filler for the hairline ( and not so hairline) cracks,
| sanded and then sprayed three cans of auto paint over the tub and wall,
| actuall it wasn't auto paint although I got it from our local auto store,
it
| was an enamel spray especially formulated for many common outdoor
materials
| (primarily plastic, wood, metal). I taped sheets of news paper over the
| surrounding walls and did it before the floor was laid. I had very little
| overspray and with a dust sheet taped up you'd really be able to control
it.
| It looks brand new and has stood up to the last three weeks beach camping
| very well, no chips from dropping the shampoo or scratches from the three
| tons of sand we carry in each day.
|
| I can e-mail pics if you want to see the result.
|
| Good luck,
|
| Ruth Warren & The Tin Can Clan.
| Currently in Siesta Key, Florida.
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:16:29 -0500
| From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Subject: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
|
| Here's an Olympic rivet question: I need to replace a window in our '79
| @ 31'. I've found the bulb type rivets on rivets plus.com, but the
| shaver sells for lots o' money- and I'm not interested in making that
| big of an investment for such a small project. So my question is- are
| shaved rivets superior to unshaved ones in any way, or is it purely
| aesthetics? Can anyone recommend a rivet that will function well and
| look reasonably similar to existing?
|
| Thanks for all the help I've gotten in the past and will undoubtedly
| get in the future! we are approaching completion of our trailer update
| and will post pictures soon.
|
| Chris Koehn
| VA member, and WBCCI 8638
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 17:00:20 -0700
| From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
|
| > Here's an Olympic rivet question: I need to replace a window in our '79
| > @ 31'. I've found the bulb type rivets on rivets plus.com, but the
| > shaver sells for lots o' money- and I'm not interested in making that
| > big of an investment for such a small project. So my question is- are
| > shaved rivets superior to unshaved ones in any way, or is it purely
| > aesthetics? Can anyone recommend a rivet that will function well and
| > look reasonably similar to existing?
|
| > Chris Koehn
|
| Hi Chris:
|
| You can use the Olympics without the shaver, especially if you are only
| talking about a few. After pulling up the rivet, cut off the shank as
close
| as you can with a side cutter. Then take your Dremel tool with a sanding
| drum installed on it and carefully knock of the rest of the shank until it
| blends in with the round cap of the rivet. It won't be as good as the
| shaver could do, but if you are careful, it will be PD good. And
| undetectable if you don't look close. Remember to take off the EPDM
washer
| so the head lays down nice and flat.
|
| GQ '67 Safari
| 4082 in CA
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 22:17:12 -0400
| From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] alternative to shaved rivets?
|
| Chris -
| I bought a used cleco rivet gun and a rivet buck with several heads on
| ebay for less than half of a rivet shaver . The down side is you must
| access the back side to buck the rivet . The good part is they are
stronger
| and its kind of fun .The rivets are cheap too , sold by the 1/4 lb about
| $5.00
| Chris 63 flyin cloud
|
| Chris Koehn wrote:
|
| > Here's an Olympic rivet question: I need to replace a window in our '79
| > @ 31'. I've found the bulb type rivets on rivets plus.com, but the
| > shaver sells for lots o' money- and I'm not interested in making that
| > big of an investment for such a small project. So my question is- are
| > shaved rivets superior to unshaved ones in any way, or is it purely
| > aesthetics? Can anyone recommend a rivet that will function well and
| > look reasonably similar to existing?
| >
| > Thanks for all the help I've gotten in the past and will undoubtedly
| > get in the future! we are approaching completion of our trailer update
| > and will post pictures soon.
| >
| > Chris Koehn
| > VA member, and WBCCI 8638
| >
| > -----------------------------------------------------------------
| > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
| >
| > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
| > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 20:35:51 -0500
| From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
| Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair
|
| I've not actually used Bondo, but my uncle used to use it by the bucket
| in his auto body shop. Working with aluminum, I'd want to taper the hole
| so a plug couldn't fall in (I might dimple it a little from the outside
| or bevel it with a countersink), then I'd clean it to as close to bare
| metal as possible, and as soon as the solvent dried, I'd apply the Bondo
| to the clean surface pushing a wad through the hole to make a blob on
| the back side. I might consider looking for an aluminum metal filled
| epoxy maybe from Devcon. That would be a closer match to the aluminum
| skin temperature coefficients, and might not be too poor a color match.
|
| Gerald J.
| - --
| Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
| Reproduction by permission only.
|
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 22:10:47 -0700
| From: Gary Heebner <nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
| Subject: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
|
| Hi to all,
| The Airstream in the gondola is too cool!! I live in central BC and near
the headwaters of the mighty Fraser in the Rockies, so the scenery is all
too familiar. Just south of here, there is still a cable ferry that makes
daily crossings, so farmers on the west side can access Hwy 97. If you go
north to Alaska, there's a good chance that you'll follow the river for at
least a day if you follow Hwy 97 from Oregon to northern BC. The US rv's
are already rolling through town (still waiting to see some Airstreams)!
|
| Gary Heebner
| Prince George BC
| '77 31'
|
| ------------------------------
|
| End of VAL Digest V1 #224
| *************************
|
|
| -----------------------------------------------------------------
| When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
|
| To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
| http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|
| -----------------------------------------------------------------
| When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
|
| To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
| http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|
|
|
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 13:36:48 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
Gary: Do the farmers transfer big equipment on the cable ferry? I would
really like to ferret out the origin of that fantastic photo. Tom, you
devil - you've started something....
Jo Ann
On 20, Apr 2004, at 10:10 PM, Gary Heebner wrote:
> Hi to all,
> The Airstream in the gondola is too cool!! I live in central BC and
> near the headwaters of the mighty Fraser in the Rockies, so the
> scenery is all too familiar. Just south of here, there is still a
> cable ferry that makes daily crossings, so farmers on the west side
> can access Hwy 97. If you go north to Alaska, there's a good chance
> that you'll follow the river for at least a day if you follow Hwy 97
> from Oregon to northern BC. The US rv's are already rolling through
> town (still waiting to see some Airstreams)!
>
> Gary Heebner
> Prince George BC
> '77 31'
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 16:50:25 -0700
From: Robert Hupp <whitedog@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Introduction
Hi Folks,
I'm glad to have found this list as I've always been an admirer of the older Airstream
trailers. From looking at the archives, there are quite a few folks here that are restoring
old units as well as travelling in them. I am currently looking for a new trailer as my
previous one (not an Airstream) was totalled by a drunk driver about a month ago.
One of the trailers I am seriosly considering is a 1979 Argosy Minuet. It's listed as a
20' so I suspect from the photos I have seen that it is a Minuet 6 metre. Configuration
is rear bath with a couch across the front and one down the door side. Rear bath with the
kitchen down the street side.
This would be a working trailer, that is to say, I want to keep it in good repair so that
it can be used. I'm not interested in maintaining a showpiece. The trailer I am looking
at has a dent in one corner over the front windows (cosmetic only as far as I can tell).
It looks like the previous owner ran into a tree branch or garage door or something of the
sort. It needs a new cooling unit on the refrigerator. I know where to get that. It needs
to have an air conditioner added for my use. That's a bit expensive but doable. Flooring
seems solid from what I can tell.
My questions to the group are:
What other things should I be checking for?
Are there any systems peculiarities that I should be on the watch for? Odd valves?
Pressurized fresh water systems rather than water pumps? etc.
The trailer I get will generally be used about 2 to 3 weekends a month and must be completely
self contained. Any info you all could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your help. I look forward to hearing from y'all.
Regards,
Bob Hupp
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 19:40:57 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Introduction
Greetings Bob!
The Minuet 6.0 Metre (20 foot in the brochure and by the VIN) is an
interesting coach. So far as from all reports that I have heard, each of
these 6.0 Metre coaches has a composite aluminum floor that is riveted to
the chassis - - mine has this feature as has all other 6.0 Metre Minuet
coaches that I have had the opportunity to investigate. This floor systems
poses none of the rot problems associated with the plywood flooring of the
larger coaches, but it does in some of the coaches develop a sag related to
usage patters (it doesn't seem to impact that serviceability of the coaches
according to owner reports). The one limitation that the aluminum composite
flooring does produce is that it limits your floor covering selection to
either carpeting or floating floor systems with the thicker padding
underlayment (Armstrong calls their Quiet Step).
Minuets have a number of peculiarities. Another that doesn't always become
immediately obvious is the width. The Minuet is narrower than the standard
coaches by about 7". The 6.0 Metre Minuet has an Empty Weight of 2,450
pounds with a empty hitch weight of 395 pounds. With its Armstrong floating
Laminate flooring system, Coleman Air Conditioner, front window rock guard,
and entertainment package, my 6.0 Metre Minuet has and empty weight 2,650
pounds. Fully loaded for a trip, the trailer has a Gross Weight of 3,100
pounds and a hitch weight of 550 pounds.
Most Minuet owners with whom I have corresponded have had to have their
DuraTorque axles replaced. We seem to be about evenly divided between those
who went with the same specifications as the original and those like myself
who went with one that was upgraded (mine is rated at 500 pounds more
capacity than the original). More often than not, it seems that the axle is
worn to the point of needing replacement on most of the Minuet 6.0 Metres
with which I have had contact.
The other issue that is often not considered is the lack of factory rock
guards for the front windows on Minuets. The only way to protect the
expensive to replace wing windows is with a custom rock guard. The usual
method is to customize the rock guards currently being used on
Airstreams - - the wing sections are identical, but the center section is
some 7"+ narrower and must be cut down and reassembled when the rock guard
is installed on the coach.
The plumbing can also be a little quirky when first examined. The coach
came from the factory with a gray water tank, but it as well as the black
water tank are mounted on top of the floor. Not a particular issue with the
black water tank, but with the gray water tank, it means that the only gray
water collected is that produced by the kitchen sink and the bathroom vanity
sink. A portable "blue" tank is necessary for the shower gray water.
Several 6.0 Metre owners, and I am one, have had to have new toilets as the
water valves in the original Thetford seem to be a problem - - the closest
current replacement does require some minor modification to the base to
support the outer perimeter of the replacement toilet's base (at least on my
coach).
This may have been particular to my coach due to its well-worn axle, but the
dump-valve drop-out had been damaged (probably more than once) in the past.
In fact, in the year that I towed it before having the axle replaced, the
drop-out was damaged three times by gradual inclines leading either to or
from a gas station. With the minimal ground clearance of the coach
(especially if the axle is well worn) dictates the hitch height be carefully
leveled to keep from excessively dragging the rear of the coach when
navigating any kind of drive with an incline.
I have owned my 6.0 Metre Minuet for almost 18-months. The little coach is
very enjoyable to use and I really like the twin lounge layout - - it makes
for a very roomy feeling in such a small coach. While I can't say that my
coach has been trouble-free, it has been a joy to tow and very practical to
own.
Since the endcaps are galvanized steel, repairing the damage that you noted
would require what would essentially be common body shop procedures. You
can even find the paint codes to match the original Argosy colors by doing a
search of the Archives at http://www.tompatterson.com. You will also find
that all of the Minuets had demand type water systems with a fresh water
tank of approximately 30 gallons. The water heater was the standard
6-gallon LP Atwood. Pre-wiring for the air conditioner may or may not be
present - - it was an option on the 6.0 Metre Minuet at least according to
the paperwork that came with my coach that was purchased from the original
owner (a blank outlet cover on the ceiling identified the presence of this
option).
I have a copy of the 1979 Argosy Minuet sales brochure posted at:
http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/3766/size/big/password//sort/1/cat/500
When you mention streetside kitchen, it makes it sound as if what you might
be looking at is a 7.3 Metre Minuet (or 24 foot). If this is the case, it
would be one of what seems to be the lower production Minuets. A sure trait
would be if it has tandem axles as the 7.3 Metre is the only tandem axle
minuet. The 6.0 Metre and 6.7 Metre (22 foot) Minuets both had single
axles. What I have written other than weights and about the aluminum
composite floor would apply to both the 6.7 and 7.3 Metre Minuets - - by
following the link above, you will be able to see the empty weights for all
three Minuet coaches as well as the standard floor plans. From owner
reports, it seems that only the 6.0 Metre coaches had the universal use of
composite aluminum flooring, while some of the 6.7 Metre coach owners have
reported aluminum composite with others reporting plywood flooring, and none
of the 7.3 Metre coach owners have reported flooring other than plywood.
Good luck with your investigation!
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.10
Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter
V8/2.70 Final Drive)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Hupp" <whitedog@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2004 6:50 PM
Subject: [VAL] Introduction
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm glad to have found this list as I've always been an admirer of the
older Airstream trailers. From looking at the archives, there are quite a
few folks here that are restoring old units as well as travelling in them.
I am currently looking for a new trailer as my previous one (not an
Airstream) was totalled by a drunk driver about a month ago.
>
> One of the trailers I am seriosly considering is a 1979 Argosy Minuet.
It's listed as a 20' so I suspect from the photos I have seen that it is a
Minuet 6 metre. Configuration is rear bath with a couch across the front
and one down the door side. Rear bath with the kitchen down the street
side.
>
> This would be a working trailer, that is to say, I want to keep it in good
repair so that it can be used. I'm not interested in maintaining a
showpiece. The trailer I am looking at has a dent in one corner over the
front windows (cosmetic only as far as I can tell). It looks like the
previous owner ran into a tree branch or garage door or something of the
sort. It needs a new cooling unit on the refrigerator. I know where to get
that. It needs to have an air conditioner added for my use. That's a bit
expensive but doable. Flooring seems solid from what I can tell.
>
> My questions to the group are:
>
> What other things should I be checking for?
> Are there any systems peculiarities that I should be on the watch for?
Odd valves? Pressurized fresh water systems rather than water pumps? etc.
>
> The trailer I get will generally be used about 2 to 3 weekends a month and
must be completely self contained. Any info you all could provide would be
greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks for your help. I look forward to hearing from y'all.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob Hupp
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 20:51:58 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
Jo Ann, have you seen the photo of a caravan crossing a river with each
Airstream resting on two barge like a catamaran? That's a heart stopper.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2004 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
> Gary: Do the farmers transfer big equipment on the cable ferry? I would
> really like to ferret out the origin of that fantastic photo. Tom, you
> devil - you've started something....
> Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 19:45:57 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
Jim - No I haven't. Can you send it? I'd love to frame a few of these
amazing pictures to hang in my trailer.
Jo Ann
On 21, Apr 2004, at 5:51 PM, Jim Greene wrote:
> Jo Ann, have you seen the photo of a caravan crossing a river with each
> Airstream resting on two barge like a catamaran? That's a heart
> stopper.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2004 4:36 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Airstream over the Fraser
>
>
>> Gary: Do the farmers transfer big equipment on the cable ferry? I
>> would
>> really like to ferret out the origin of that fantastic photo. Tom, you
>> devil - you've started something....
>> Jo Ann
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
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