VAL Digest V1 #22

VAL Digest         Wednesday, October 1 2003         Volume 01 : Number 022




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
[VAL] Roof Bows
[VAL] Re: Floor Replacement
[VAL] Re:Floor Replacement
Re: [VAL] source for repair
Re: [VAL] Roof Bows
[VAL] Towing vehicle request
[VAL] Weigh Station Open
Re: [VAL] Re: Floor Replacement
[VAL] Thanks "Dr. G"
[VAL] Locking Trailer
Re: [VAL] Weigh Station Open
RE: [VAL] Towing vehicle request
RE: [VAL] looking for window part
Re: [VAL] Weigh Station Open
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer
RE: [VAL] solar
Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer
Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
Re: [VAL] Roof Bows
Re: [VAL] Re: Floor Replacement
Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer
Re: [VAL] Complete Floor Replacement
[VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Towing vehicle request
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer
Re: [VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner plywood
Re: [VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner plywood
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] solar

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 02:12:44 -0500
From: "Brian Jenkins" <jenkins1924@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

Hello all,

I'm about to refinish the Airstream nameplates on the front and rear of my 
'56 Caravanner and was wondering if anyone on the list can tell me the 
correct color blue for the restoration? I believe it was a darker blue than 
the current color.

Thanks,
Brian Jenkins
#7819 WBCCI, VAC

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 05:52:14 -0400
From: "Beekman" <beek@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Roof Bows

> Has anyone ever tried to replace the aluminum channel that
> makes up the
> framework of roof? I am replacing rear curved panels on '61 and just
> realized that a piece of the channel is damaged from tree vs.
> roof incident.
> I would like to replace it with aluminum channel but it has a
> curve to it
> and looks like something custom made. Any ideas?
>

You *could* make a template and laminate the new bow out of wood. It's a
standard technique in boat shops and makes an incredibly strong member. Your
in to out thickness is predetermined, but you could add fore and aft
thickness to add strength and when you cover it up nobody will ever know.
AND you can do it yourself.

Beekman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 06:01:03 -0400
From: "Beekman" <beek@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Floor Replacement

>Why in the worild wouldyou want to spend the money for 11 ply marine
plywood
>for a trailer floor? you do not need any more streangth than you would get
>with exterior ply wood the glue is the same in both. unless treated
especially
>arounrd the edges both will rot with equal speed.I have built many boats in
my
>time and for the soles(floors) we used exterior ply we cored the decks with
>exterior plywood.there is no doubt that 11 plywoodwill do the job but why
spend
>the extry$$$$$$$$$ /Its your cow.
>Jim smith

It's hard to beat CCA Treated, sheathing grade plywood for damp situations.
It is very resistant to rot....AND cheap. However, since it is treated with
copper arsenate, you'll want to seal it on the interior if you use carpet
rather than vinyl. They're supposed to quit making it soon because of the
environmental problems with the treatment. It's still available around here,
though and they say they're coming out with a more environmentally
acceptable treatment that is "just as good". You might ask at your
lumberyard.

Beekman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 06:08:49 -0400
From: "Beekman" <beek@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re:Floor Replacement

>There is a difference between Marine Grade plywood and others.  Exterior
>plywood may use the same glues as you claim but what about the gaps in the
>layers?  I think that is where Marine Grade applies.  The Marine Grade is
>also treated plywood, can't say I know if exterior is or not.  Is it?  I
>don't know.

>Tom

Regular marine plywood is not treated against rot. As Tom says, it does not
have voids like CDX does, however this is a lot more important when you have
water, rather than air, on the outside. Regular CDX that is pressure-treated
with an anti-rot compound will last a lot longer, in rot-prone conditions,
than untreated marine plywood.......and it's a LOT cheaper.

Beekman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 03:25:51 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] source for repair

Chris, I have a 1961 Globetrotter that has all the rear panels intact. 
You could have it as a "parts" trailer for $850. It is currently 
registered in California, and tows fine.

Best regards,

Rik

Chris Herring wrote:

>Has anyone ever tried to replace the aluminum channel that makes up the
>framework of roof? I am replacing rear curved panels on '61 and just
>realized that a piece of the channel is damaged from tree vs. roof incident.
>I would like to replace it with aluminum channel but it has a curve to it
>and looks like something custom made. Any ideas?
>
>I have all of the segments that form the curve for replacement, however
>while I'm going to all of this trouble I would like to find one more segment
>to install. If you are looking at the rear endcap and the middle piece is
>No. 1, I need the segment that is two over from that if you move in a
>clockwise position.
>
>Maybe someone has a parts Airstream that they would be willing to sell some
>pieces of?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 07:07:44 EDT
From: Hugheym@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Roof Bows

Hello,
   I used wood to strengthen my roof when I put in a roof A/C in 69 
International it has held up very well.
    Martin Hughey
     WBCCI 10212

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 08:49:36 -0400
From: "Rick Langer" <farreach@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Towing vehicle request

Dave, I pull a '66 GT with a V8 Tundra SR5 extended cab. It has more than
enough power. I figure my unit is more than 4000 pounds, being the pack rat
that I am. Between cruise control, stabilizing hitch and electric brakes,
the biggest problem is remembering the trailer is back there. Gas mileage 15
without trailer and 11 with it. Without the trailer it feels and sounds
like the fastest vekicle on the road (has great exhaust sound). I hear
Tundra now has a V6 which I would consider if gas mileage is significantly
improved.
Regardless of brand I would recomend a pick-up over a SUV because the
pick-up bed has much more utility for me and they generally have a longer
wheel base. I love my GT, but it does not have any outside storage, so I
have a 18"x18"x48" plywood box which I keep at the tailgate to hold all the
outside stuff(jacks,leveling blocks, chokes, hoses, extention wires etc.)
that would otherwise have to be stored in the trailer or the SUV.
Rick Langer
#3847,VAC,TCT
Hudson River Valley, NY
 "Dave Mills"  Wrote;
> We have a l966 Globetrotter which I bought from Chris Elliott three years
> ago and which has worked beautifully for us on two major trips totaling
over
> 11,000 miles.  Our problem is that it not surprisingly is outlasting our
98
> Ford Explorer and we are considering what to buy for a new tow vehicle.
My
> wife would prefer an SUV with enough power (I think that Ford was marginal
> but OK) and I could go with a pick-up or an SUV.  Adequate power to pull
the
> about (I believe) 4000 pounds of the AS loaded balanced against gas
economy
> is the equation (factoring in also, of course, the initial cost).  The
> vehicle would also be our primary one going from our small Maine island
back
> and forth to civilization.  I would appreciate the wisdom which you all
can
> give me about this issue.  Thanks very much, Dave and Susan Mills (plus
> "Piccolo" the AS).

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:13:34 -0400
From: "Rick Langer" <farreach@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Weigh Station Open

On a recent trip I surprisingly found a weigh station that was open. I
thought I would try to get my unit's weight, but noticed a very long line of
trucks. As I passed I also noticed that the line was moving very fast, like
they drove onto the scale, got a ticket and left. Is that how they work? Do
they cost anything? Can I weigh the trailer only and if so how do I adjust
the weight of the trailer for the amount the hitch is carrying? If I got the
weight of the entire rig, I could subtract the truck, but the truck usually
has extra weight in it, so this method won't work. Any ideas?
Maybe I could unhitch the trailer and pull the truck off the scale. Do you
think that line of truckers behind me would mind?
Rick Langer
'66GT
#3847,VAC,TCT
Hudson River Valley,NY

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:23:50 -0400
From: "T o m  :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Floor Replacement

I sealed my entire trailer floor with shellac and then installed vinyl
tiles.  This worked out just fine for me.

Tom

From: "Beekman" <beek@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Floor Replacement


: >Why in the worild wouldyou want to spend the money for 11 ply marine
: plywood
: >for a trailer floor? you do not need any more streangth than you would
get
: >with exterior ply wood the glue is the same in both. unless treated
: especially
: >arounrd the edges both will rot with equal speed.I have built many boats
in
: my
: >time and for the soles(floors) we used exterior ply we cored the decks
with
: >exterior plywood.there is no doubt that 11 plywoodwill do the job but why
: spend
: >the extry$$$$$$$$$ /Its your cow.
: >Jim smith
:
: It's hard to beat CCA Treated, sheathing grade plywood for damp
situations.
: It is very resistant to rot....AND cheap. However, since it is treated
with
: copper arsenate, you'll want to seal it on the interior if you use carpet
: rather than vinyl. They're supposed to quit making it soon because of the
: environmental problems with the treatment. It's still available around
here,
: though and they say they're coming out with a more environmentally
: acceptable treatment that is "just as good". You might ask at your
: lumberyard.
:
: Beekman
:
: -----------------------------------------------------------------
: When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
:
: To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
: http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
:
:
:

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:41:35 -0400
From: "Rick Langer" <farreach@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Thanks "Dr. G"

I apologize for the numerous postings, but I just returned from a trip and I
want to thank Gerald Johnson for the great advice he gave awhile ago on
backing up. He said that many of us have trouble backing because we can't
see the very end of the trailer.  Well that was my problem and I'm here to
tell you Dr. G," I am cured".  I backed into a 10'x150' path with a 75
degree turn, by myself, in less than 5 minutes. Most of the time was spent
checking the back of the trailer because I didn't want to hit anything. I
was thinking of rigging some extentions for the back bumper, but found that
focusing on whatever side of the trailer that I could see worked fine. I
don't want to overdo it, but I want you to know Gerald that your postings
are most valueable to me.
Rick Langer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:57:44 -0400
From: "Rick Langer" <farreach@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Locking Trailer

I was camping  in the White Mountains National Forrest (NH) and soon after
arrival I noticed that I was completly alone. While away from camp for
extended periods  I got paranoid that my trailer with it's new shine might
be a target for theft.  I always lock the hitch and this time i locked the
chains to a big utility box that I carry, but I still worried. So I was
trying to think of something short of removing a tire that might be more
secure.  How about something that locks around the wheel like those things
that police use if you don't pay your parking tickets, only not so big.
Any ideas?
Rick Langer
'66 GT
#3847,VAC,TCT
Hudson River Valley, NY

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:16:09 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weigh Station Open

Rick:

  Look in your yellow pages under "scales-public" for a
local scale to weight your truck and trailer together and
separately at a slower pace. Coal & ice yards, moving
companies and commercial truck scales are much better suited
to your purposes than the interstate weight scales.

Fred in Denver  

Rick Langer wrote:
> 
> On a recent trip I surprisingly found a weigh station that was open. I
> thought I would try to get my unit's weight, but noticed a very long line of
> trucks. As I passed I also noticed that the line was moving very fast, like
> they drove onto the scale, got a ticket and left. Is that how they work? Do
> they cost anything? Can I weigh the trailer only and if so how do I adjust
> the weight of the trailer for the amount the hitch is carrying? If I got the
> weight of the entire rig, I could subtract the truck, but the truck usually
> has extra weight in it, so this method won't work. Any ideas?
> Maybe I could unhitch the trailer and pull the truck off the scale. Do you
> think that line of truckers behind me would mind?
> Rick Langer
> '66GT
> #3847,VAC,TCT
> Hudson River Valley,NY
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:30:49 -0600
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Towing vehicle request

Dave and Susan,

I pull a 67 tradewind (24') with a Toyoda Tundra V8 in Colorado over
10,000 foot passes.  It is the best truck or car that I have owned.  At
least look at the Tundra before you buy something else.

Best Regards,
   Jim
 
   jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
   970 669-3701
 

> My
> wife would prefer an SUV with enough power (I think that Ford was
marginal
> but OK) and I could go with a pick-up or an SUV.  Adequate power to
pull
> the
> about (I believe) 4000 pounds of the AS loaded balanced against gas
> economy
> is the equation (factoring in also, of course, the initial cost).  The
> vehicle would also be our primary one going from our small Maine
island
> back
> and forth to civilization.  I would appreciate the wisdom which you
all
> can
> give me about this issue.  Thanks very much, Dave and Susan Mills
(plus
> "Piccolo" the AS).

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:33:59 -0600
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] looking for window part

RJ,

I've checked with Andy.  He doesn't have the crank mechanism, but does
have the clips.

Best Regards,
   Jim
 
   jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
   970 669-3701
 

> Subject: RE: [VAL] looking for window part
> 
> In addition to many brick & mortar Airstream dealers, the only online
> source I know of is InlandRV (http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/ for
> pictures). They have the mechanism and the clips.  The issue with
their
> clips is that they require InLand's stainless steel window pane edging
> kits.  I've got to give Andy credit in this case, the kits are very
> nice, and are almost a necessity when replacing a broken Corning glass
> window with Acrylic sheet material, as it gives the 1966-1968 windows
a
> nice finished edge, strength and weight to keep them from flapping in
> the wind.
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:38:03 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weigh Station Open

The state weigh stations don't give out a ticket unless the rig is too
heavy. Then they pull it out of the line. When they are running the
trucks over the scale in a line without stopping, in the past that just
meant they read quickly and didn't check too closely. When they are that
busy, they won't like you coming in because the RV and tow vehicle
aren't required to be weighed.

Better to find a country grain elevator during the middle of the summer
when little grain is being hauled. Then you can weigh an axle at a time,
E.g. front axle of tow, both axles of tow, all axles of tow and trailer,
to learn the axle loads. Then you can park the trailer and weigh the tow
vehicle axles one at a time, and from that you can figure the total
trailer weight and the tongue load. And even with another weighing or
two you can determine the effects of the load equalizing hitch. The
smaller the town, the more likely the country elevator scale operator
will do this for no fee, though they generally do have a fee posted of a
couple bucks for such weighing that doesn't involve commerce with them
(buying or selling grain or fertilizer).

Other alternatives include truck stops with certified scales, and feed
dealers who sell in bulk. I've used the local feed dealer when selling
baled hay by the ton. I've helped calibrate electronic scales at a local
asphalt plant on the asphalt silo, and they had a drive over scale for
checking the electronic scale, but the didn't use the drive over scale
unless the electronic scale was broken. And then is when they called me
and loaded the silo up with gravel sans asphalt for easy handling. At
times the calibration required replacing major scale elements so it took
a week.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:45:36 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

Brian:

   The AIRSTREAM name plates on 1956 trailers were not
painted blue.  They had an aluminum colored grayish
background with polished letters. See the front cover and
pages 84, 112, 121, 135 & 139 in Bryan Burkhart's AIRSTREAM
book for some oblique examples. 

Fred C. in Denver.   

Brian Jenkins wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I'm about to refinish the Airstream nameplates on the front and rear of my
> '56 Caravanner and was wondering if anyone on the list can tell me the
> correct color blue for the restoration? I believe it was a darker blue than
> the current color.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brian Jenkins
> #7819 WBCCI, VAC
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Help protect your PC.  Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.
> http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 11:50:41 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer

Rick
There is a tire chock made that goes between the tires on a dual axle
trailer, the handle that expands it is lockable. If you check out Camping
Worlds web site I'm sure you can find what I'm talking about. You may also
find it cheaper somewhere else, but at least you have a starting point for
looking.
Bobby
'73 Ambassador
 Valdosta, GA


- ----- Original Message -----
Wrom: MSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYCGPKYLEJGDGVCJVT
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 9:57 AM
Subject: [VAL] Locking Trailer


> I was camping  in the White Mountains National Forrest (NH) and soon after
> arrival I noticed that I was completly alone. While away from camp for
> extended periods  I got paranoid that my trailer with it's new shine might
> be a target for theft.  I always lock the hitch and this time i locked the
> chains to a big utility box that I carry, but I still worried. So I was
> trying to think of something short of removing a tire that might be more
> secure.  How about something that locks around the wheel like those things
> that police use if you don't pay your parking tickets, only not so big.
> Any ideas?
> Rick Langer
> '66 GT
> #3847,VAC,TCT
> Hudson River Valley, NY
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 10:02:39 -0600
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] solar

Jo Ann,

Put batteries in series and you add their voltage, 6+6=12. The
connection looks like this:

(neg. white)-----[- bat1 +]----[- bat2 +]----(pos. Black)

Put batteries in parallel and you add their current capacity, but the
voltage remains the same.  Two batteries that can each provide 10 amps
for one hour at 12 volts can provide 20 amps if connected in parallel.
The connection looks like this:

(neg. white)----[- bat1 +]----(pos. black)
              |_[- bat2 +]_|

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
   Jim
 
   jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
   970 669-3701
 

> 
> Chris:
>    Thanks for all the info. When you say I'll need more batteries - do
> you think two 12v would be enough? Deep cycle, Trojan's? In series or
> parallel? I'm still confused about that even though it's been
explained
> several times. I don't need to know "why" just which way will do me
the
> most good.
> Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 11:47:21 -0500
From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer

If someone wants to take your "Stuff" they will find a way..
That said I think you will find campers the most honest folks around.
Just make it a little hard for someone to just hook on or walk in.
The "bad guys" never know when others will look at what they are doing
or that you may drive back..  Don't keep to a schedule.
Dean

On Tuesday, September 30, 2003, at 08:57  AM, Rick Langer wrote:

> I was camping  in the White Mountains National Forrest (NH) and soon 
> after
> arrival I noticed that I was completly alone. While away from camp for
> extended periods  I got paranoid that my trailer with it's new shine 
> might
> be a target for theft.  I always lock the hitch and this time i locked 
> the
> chains to a big utility box that I carry, but I still worried. So I was
> trying to think of something short of removing a tire that might be 
> more
> secure.  How about something that locks around the wheel like those 
> things
> that police use if you don't pay your parking tickets, only not so big.
> Any ideas?
> Rick Langer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 13:07:54 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!

I mounted the genrator on the toung where the gas bottles used to be I 
fabricated a box for itand carry a 6 gal outboard tank on top of the box, I routed 
the exaust under the trailer using a nessan muffler and brought the exaust out 
between the wheels in the street side.
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 13:16:45 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Roof Bows

That is a great ida in my boat shop i made agreat number of bowe that way 
thia was also used on auto tops. suggest you wse ash strips cut to 1?8 in and 
build up from there will be a lot stronger than orignal
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 13:27:37 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Floor Replacement

Shellac is better than noyhing but by its self it is not very warer 
resistance That is why it is not used on furniture a glass of water sweating would ting 
it it is an excellent under coating for paint
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 11:01:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer

I find this an interesting question - I tend to
believe that if you make it known somehow that there's
something worth stealing (i.e. an alarm that doesn't
appear factory) that someone will try to steal it.

a related side story - when I was searching for my
first Airstream I went to a dealership to ask if they
knew where to find them (pre VAC of course) and he
told me about an Airstream park here in Minnesota that
had for sale classifieds posted at the guard-gate.  I
dropped in and there was nobody in the office to check
in with, and although it said "private property" it
didn't say "trespassers will be shot" so I proceeded
in to see if there were any for sale signs up...(and
to generally look around at all the various trailers.)

a guy on a 4-wheeler chased me down - stopped me and
asked me what I was doing there.  I politiely
apologized and excused myself.

My parents got a visit a few days later from the
county sheriff (an hour away) and the sheriff asked
them why I would be driving around an Airstream park.

luckily, my parents understood (well enough anyway) my
addiction to Airstreams - otherwise I may have gotten
myself in trouble for just looking!

I don't think this story applies to regular campsites,
but in any event - I think that if you can leave a
tent unattended, you can leave a trailer that's locked
down unattended for short periods of time relatively
safely.

- -not keeping to a schedule is good advice
- -buying insurance is good advice

it would be nice if there was a good way to get a
restored trailer appraised at a decent value - how do
the hot rodders do it?

Toby

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
http://shopping.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 15:56:34 -0400
From: "Robins" <lrobinson1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Complete Floor Replacement

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin W. Chop" <kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 8:40 PM
Subject: [VAL] Complete Floor Replacement


Kevin on my 49 Liner the channel is riveted to the floor/frame with 3/16
inch aluminum rivets.  Cut them with an air powered body saw.  Am replacing
with plate nuts and 1/4 inch SS bolts.

Have fun,

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:15:55 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: [VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner

RJ,

Thanks once again for your input.  We removed the shell from the frame/floor this past 
weekend.  Heavy is an understatement.  I was surprised to find that the floor of this 
1956/7 unit has 5/8" plywood.  I have had to retract my order for 3/4" plywood and change 
it to 5/8"  What year did Airstream go to 3/4"?

You mentioned installing a holding tank/s between the frames (over the axle) are you 
speaking about a fresh water holding tank?  I was planning on installing Black water above 
the floor (like my 76 tradewind), a gray water behind the axle and a freshwater???? 
somewhere???? Do you recommend installing a fresh water over the axle?  If yes do you 
recommend any particular type?

Q: What type / thickness of aluminum should I use to replace the belly pan? 

Thank you.

Kevin & Valerie Chop

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 18:14:33 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

Hi Fred - looks like the 'art deco' nameplate on page 46 of Bryan's book is
blue. I realize its not a '56 Caravanner but thought all of these types were
blue like the one in the book. Hard to find color pictures from back then.

Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT 



> Brian:
> 
> The AIRSTREAM name plates on 1956 trailers were not
> painted blue.  They had an aluminum colored grayish
> background with polished letters. See the front cover and
> pages 84, 112, 121, 135 & 139 in Bryan Burkhart's AIRSTREAM
> book for some oblique examples.
> 
> Fred C. in Denver.
> 
> Brian Jenkins wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I'm about to refinish the Airstream nameplates on the front and rear of my
>> '56 Caravanner and was wondering if anyone on the list can tell me the
>> correct color blue for the restoration? I believe it was a darker blue than
>> the current color.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Brian Jenkins
>> #7819 WBCCI, VAC
>> 
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Help protect your PC.  Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:00:41 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

Hi Brad:

   Good eye!  Yes, it does look like this art deco style
nameplate has the blue background, so perhaps the name plate
in the cover b&w photo and also on page 84 has a blue
background, too.  Hard to say from shades of gray.   

Fred   

Brad Norgaard wrote:
> 
> Hi Fred - looks like the 'art deco' nameplate on page 46 of Bryan's book is
> blue. I realize its not a '56 Caravanner but thought all of these types were
> blue like the one in the book. Hard to find color pictures from back then.
> 
> Brad Norgaard
> Phoenix
> '59 Trade Wind Twin
> VAC #2699, TCT
> 
> > Brian:
> >
> > The AIRSTREAM name plates on 1956 trailers were not
> > painted blue.  They had an aluminum colored grayish
> > background with polished letters. See the front cover and
> > pages 84, 112, 121, 135 & 139 in Bryan Burkhart's AIRSTREAM
> > book for some oblique examples.
> >
> > Fred C. in Denver.
> >
> > Brian Jenkins wrote:
> >>
> >> Hello all,
> >>
> >> I'm about to refinish the Airstream nameplates on the front and rear of my
> >> '56 Caravanner and was wondering if anyone on the list can tell me the
> >> correct color blue for the restoration? I believe it was a darker blue than
> >> the current color.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Brian Jenkins
> >> #7819 WBCCI, VAC
> >>
> >> _________________________________________________________________
> >> Help protect your PC.  Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 23:13:55 EDT
From: Imp67cc64@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Towing vehicle request

Dave,
I currently tow with an 02 Excursion Diesel that I need for towing a car 
trailer with various show cars for total weights of over 10,000.  It does a very 
good job and is very stable, but only gets 9-10 mpg with the heavy load.  My 
last tow vehicle was an 01 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton that actually did a very good 
job towing and gave better than expected gas mileage.  I did a trip to 
Yellowstone from GA and got 11-12 mpg towing my 31' Excella.  The Suburban always had 
plenty of power and the tow/haul trans setting eliminated downshifting except 
on downhill grades to keep speed down.  Around town I got 20-22 mpg without 
towing, which is better than many smaller vehicles can do.  I always found the 
size nice because so much could be carried inside and out of weather, but it 
did not seem to big to park (which is more of a factor w/ the Excursion).  I 
know many think the Suburban is just too big, but if you want a very comfortable 
ride, good fuel economy(for a large vehicle) and a very stable vehicle with 
wheelbase and weight for towing; give it a look.

John - '77 Excella 500
Atlanta

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:21:44 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

Hi Fred - all of the ones I've seen in a color photo or in person were blue.
Mine are but very faded. I got new ones from AirstreamDreams website as I
did the artwork for the new ones. Sure beats masking and painting and, best
of all, shouldn't fade.

Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT 



> Hi Brad:
> 
> Good eye!  Yes, it does look like this art deco style
> nameplate has the blue background, so perhaps the name plate
> in the cover b&w photo and also on page 84 has a blue
> background, too.  Hard to say from shades of gray.
> 
> Fred   
> 
> Brad Norgaard wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Fred - looks like the 'art deco' nameplate on page 46 of Bryan's book is
>> blue. I realize its not a '56 Caravanner but thought all of these types were
>> blue like the one in the book. Hard to find color pictures from back then.
>> 
>> Brad Norgaard
>> Phoenix
>> '59 Trade Wind Twin
>> VAC #2699, TCT
>> 
>>> Brian:
>>> 
>>> The AIRSTREAM name plates on 1956 trailers were not
>>> painted blue.  They had an aluminum colored grayish
>>> background with polished letters. See the front cover and
>>> pages 84, 112, 121, 135 & 139 in Bryan Burkhart's AIRSTREAM
>>> book for some oblique examples.
>>> 
>>> Fred C. in Denver.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:24:45 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer

Go to a Salvation Army store and buy the biggest pair of hiking boots you
can find and place them outside on the ground. Dirty them up a little, toss
in some worn white socks. You'll be amazed at what this will do.

Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT 


> 
>> I was camping  in the White Mountains National Forrest (NH) and soon
>> after
>> arrival I noticed that I was completly alone. While away from camp for
>> extended periods  I got paranoid that my trailer with it's new shine
>> might
>> be a target for theft.  I always lock the hitch and this time i locked
>> the
>> chains to a big utility box that I carry, but I still worried. So I was
>> trying to think of something short of removing a tire that might be
>> more
>> secure.  How about something that locks around the wheel like those
>> things
>> that police use if you don't pay your parking tickets, only not so big.
>> Any ideas?
>> Rick Langer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 21:58:03 -0600
From: "Earl Peck" <earlpeck@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner plywood

Kevin,
I too recieved the 5/8th suprise on my 1965 Overlander.  I wish it had been
3/4" because the  5/8 seems to be a little saggy in places when this 200lb
frame steps in the center of some of the wide spans.  I had ordered marine
grade wood  but then talked to some boat  builders and was told that now a
days even the marine grade will have some voids in it between laminates.
They recommended an A/C grade plywood( a substancial savings from marine
grade). It has one good side for the floor and a rough side for the belly
side.  After the floor was down I then coated it all with penetrating epoxy.
I'm sure that floor will probably out last me even though it does give a
little.

Earl Peck
1965 Overlander
Bellevue, Idaho
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 6:15 PM
Subject: [VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner


> RJ,
>
> Thanks once again for your input.  We removed the shell from the
frame/floor this past weekend.  Heavy is an understatement.  I was surprised
to find that the floor of this 1956/7 unit has 5/8" plywood.  I have had to
retract my order for 3/4" plywood and change it to 5/8"  What year did
Airstream go to 3/4"?
>
> You mentioned installing a holding tank/s between the frames (over the
axle) are you speaking about a fresh water holding tank?  I was planning on
installing Black water above the floor (like my 76 tradewind), a gray water
behind the axle and a freshwater???? somewhere???? Do you recommend
installing a fresh water over the axle?  If yes do you recommend any
particular type?
>
> Q: What type / thickness of aluminum should I use to replace the belly
pan?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Kevin & Valerie Chop
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 00:23:46 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner plywood

My 1965 Tradewind has 1/2 in plywood floor is it unique? I know this to be 
true because I replaced the bath floor. As far as the descussion about exterior 
ply versis marine I will speak from many years around boats buth building and 
repairing.All untreated fir plywood will rot with equal speed if it is not 
protected from moisture pinitration, the untreated edges will wick up moisrure 
and siowly rot. as far as streangth marine ply is stronger.and for the perpose 
that we are using it for voids are not a provlem.
Years ago I used to race outboard hydroplanes at speeds aproching 100 mph I 
used to use expencive imported marine ply and later switched to using exterior 
ply for these boats never had one brake apart when raceing eaven in rough 
water. used 1/4 in 3 ply for the bottom  and treated door skins for the decks.many 
of us on a budget went this route I have seen many river skiffs bult from A-C 
fir ply and depending on the care given they lasted a good long time. the 
biggest contributing factor to wood rot is wetting and drying out and having the 
process repeted over ans over.
Jim smith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 22:29:25 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

Brad:

   The deco style (with round letters) name plates from
about 1948 to about 1958 or maybe slightly later did not
have a blue background.  The background was an aluminum or
grayish color with the brighter polished letters spelling
AIRSTREAM.  My 1957 Flying Cloud (since sold) and 1951
Clipper both have this type of deco nameplate.  I'm not
aware of anyone who is reproducing these grayish background
deco style AIRSTREAM nameplates.

Fred C.       

Brad Norgaard wrote:
> 
> Hi Fred - all of the ones I've seen in a color photo or in person were blue.
> Mine are but very faded. I got new ones from AirstreamDreams website as I
> did the artwork for the new ones. Sure beats masking and painting and, best
> of all, shouldn't fade.
> 
> Brad Norgaard
> Phoenix
> '59 Trade Wind Twin
> VAC #2699, TCT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 22:06:07 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar

Jim - yes it does help. Now if I can just get it to stick to my Teflon 
brain.
Jo Ann
> Put batteries in series and you add their voltage, 6+6=12. The
> connection looks like this:
>
> (neg. white)-----[- bat1 +]----[- bat2 +]----(pos. Black)
>
> Put batteries in parallel and you add their current capacity, but the
> voltage remains the same.  Two batteries that can each provide 10 amps
> for one hour at 12 volts can provide 20 amps if connected in parallel.
> The connection looks like this:
>
> (neg. white)----[- bat1 +]----(pos. black)
>               |_[- bat2 +]_|

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #22
************************


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