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VAL Digest V1 #21



VAL Digest         Tuesday, September 30 2003         Volume 01 : Number 021




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Flexible solar panels
Re: [VAL] solar
Re: [VAL] solar
[VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
Re: [VAL] solar
[VAL] Towing vehicle request
Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
RE: [VAL] looking for window part
[VAL] solar webpage photo
Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
Re: [VAL] waste tank valves
Re: [VAL] waste tank valves
RE: [VAL] vent cover
RE: [VAL] Floor replacement
RE: [VAL] source for repair
Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
[VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada
Re: [VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada
Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 08:45:24 -0500
From: "Sherry" <sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Flexible solar panels

I've been using the regular Unisolar flexible panels for about 7 years now.
Mine don't stick down, but I just throw them up on top of the trailer when
I'm stopped and plug them directly into the battery. They fit perfectly
under the mattress when I'm on the road. Even without sticky stuff they're
so flat that they stayed on the trailer one night with winds over 70 mph.
I've been very happy with them and have camped for several weeks (in really
good sun in Mexico) with only one battery. I'm pretty frugal with power,
though.

Sherry
'63 Bambi

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:04:41 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar

Greetings Dean!

<<quote>>
> Please ReThink your 12 Volt refrig.  They just don't work and they will
> take your Batteries down
> fast.
> Stay with the Propane gas models   Don't take my word,  check with
> others on this too.
> Dean
<<quote>>

I am sorry that you have had bad experiences with the 12-volt side of RV
refrigerators.  I am on my second, and wouldn't voluntarily have any other
type.  Each of mine has been a 3-Way (1980 Dometic 3-Way and 2001 Dometic
3-Way), but I wouldn't hesitate to consider a strictly 12-volt if the size
were correct.  My current Dometic 3-Way was installed nearly three years ago
in my Overlander as part of its restoration, and it has only been operated
on LP for at most three hours (shake-down to be sure that it worked on LP)
the balance of the time has been on 12-volt or 110 AC.  I always tow with
the refrigerator on 12-volt mode and have always had perfectly cooled
conditions in both the refrigerator and freezer - - even after twelve hours
of travel with 98 degree heet and 99% humidity.  The only shortcoming that I
have experienced is that it can take up to 36-hours or a bit more for an
initial cool of the refrigerator if done on 12-volt.

Kevin

Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (Towcar
In-Training)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:18:25 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar

Cut to the chase! How many bucks per watt?

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:13:08 -0400
From: "T o m  :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!

36 hours?  Holy Cow!

I can pull down my Norcold 8.0 cubic fridge in about 2 hours with LP gas.  I
can make ice in 3 hours in that same fridge.  I do however have a fast
moving air vent ;) that doesn't let the warm air linger behind the fridge.
And, I've also put a open / shut air register in the plug door with a 12 vdc
computer fan pulling air up, over and out across the fridge coils.

36 hours?  That's way to long for my taste.

Tom
WBCCI 5303


From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>

.  The only shortcoming that I
: have experienced is that it can take up to 36-hours or a bit more for an
: initial cool of the refrigerator if done on 12-volt.
:
: Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:49:20 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar

Chris:
   Thanks for all the info. When you say I'll need more batteries - do 
you think two 12v would be enough? Deep cycle, Trojan's? In series or 
parallel? I'm still confused about that even though it's been explained 
several times. I don't need to know "why" just which way will do me the 
most good.
Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:57:58 -0400
From: "Dave Mills" <davemills60@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Towing vehicle request

We have a l966 Globetrotter which I bought from Chris Elliott three years 
ago and which has worked beautifully for us on two major trips totaling over 
11,000 miles.  Our problem is that it not surprisingly is outlasting our 98 
Ford Explorer and we are considering what to buy for a new tow vehicle.  My 
wife would prefer an SUV with enough power (I think that Ford was marginal 
but OK) and I could go with a pick-up or an SUV.  Adequate power to pull the 
about (I believe) 4000 pounds of the AS loaded balanced against gas economy 
is the equation (factoring in also, of course, the initial cost).  The 
vehicle would also be our primary one going from our small Maine island back 
and forth to civilization.  I would appreciate the wisdom which you all can 
give me about this issue.  Thanks very much, Dave and Susan Mills (plus 
"Piccolo" the AS).


>

_________________________________________________________________
Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE!  
http://msnmessenger-download.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:05:05 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!

Well, now I know where to go borrow ice cubes. Let me know your travel 
itinerary - I think I just solved my frig dilemma.
Jo Ann

On Monday, September 29, 2003, at 09:13 AM, T o m :-)) wrote:
> 36 hours?  Holy Cow!
> I can pull down my Norcold 8.0 cubic fridge in about 2 hours with LP 
> gas.  I
> can make ice in 3 hours in that same fridge.  I do however have a fast
> moving air vent ;) that doesn't let the warm air linger behind the 
> fridge.
> And, I've also put a open / shut air register in the plug door with a 
> 12 vdc
> computer fan pulling air up, over and out across the fridge coils.
> 36 hours?  That's way to long for my taste.
> Tom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:20:02 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] looking for window part

In addition to many brick & mortar Airstream dealers, the only online
source I know of is InlandRV (http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/ for
pictures). They have the mechanism and the clips.  The issue with their
clips is that they require InLand's stainless steel window pane edging
kits.  I've got to give Andy credit in this case, the kits are very
nice, and are almost a necessity when replacing a broken Corning glass
window with Acrylic sheet material, as it gives the 1966-1968 windows a
nice finished edge, strength and weight to keep them from flapping in
the wind.
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 8:00 AM
> To: jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com; valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] looking for window part
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I need help finding a part for our 67 Tradewind.  The windows
> have crank
> clamps that pull the window tightly shut.  I need two of these.
> Actually I need one spring that engages the window clip and two brass
> threaded rods that pull the spring and hold the crank.  Any thought on
> where I should look?  Inland Rv and Camper Repair in Al.
> couldn't help.
..............
> Best Regards,
>    Jim

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:26:05 -0700
From: "Richard        McFarland" <estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] solar webpage photo

From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar

Dan And Scott ,
I ordered them thru
http://www.solarwindsnorthernlights.com/


Chris - thanks for the URL - just watching the website main page open up on
the computer screen is great.
Great photography - and design concept.  And...it's also a very interesting
site.  Thanks.

RL

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:44:39 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!

Greetings Tom!

As I said, the only disadvantage is the long cool down time on 12-volt - - I
have a total distaste for LP/Natural gas appliances so do not use that
option unless it is a last choice alternative.  The cool down time on
regular AC is four to six hours.

Kevin

Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (Towcar
In-Training)
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "T o m -" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 11:13 AM
Subject: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge? Bah, Humbug!


> 36 hours?  Holy Cow!
>
> I can pull down my Norcold 8.0 cubic fridge in about 2 hours with LP gas.
I
> can make ice in 3 hours in that same fridge.  I do however have a fast
> moving air vent ;) that doesn't let the warm air linger behind the fridge.
> And, I've also put a open / shut air register in the plug door with a 12
vdc
> computer fan pulling air up, over and out across the fridge coils.
>
> 36 hours?  That's way to long for my taste.
>
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
>
>
> From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
>
> .  The only shortcoming that I
> : have experienced is that it can take up to 36-hours or a bit more for an
> : initial cool of the refrigerator if done on 12-volt.
> :
> : Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 15:01:58 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] waste tank valves

Jo Ann
I elected to not make it a permanent hook up. Just use it only when I have
to at home if the tank needs dumped. Thought about making it permanent but I
do not have a gray tank.
Bobby
'73 Ambassador
Valdosta, GA


- ----- Original Message -----
Wrom: WLSZLKBRNVWWCUFPEGAUTFJMVRESKPNKMBIPBAR
> Is it the ShurFlo one that you've got? And is it a "permanent"
> installation or do you put the Macerator on just to dump?
> Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:30:34 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] waste tank valves

At 10:20 PM 9/23/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Bobby,
>
>At Camping World I purchased a new type of contraption so I don't have to
>haul around the blue slinky anymore.  Have you seen them?

My only problem with the "Sewer Solution" macerator is when you have been 
dry camping, most dump stations don't have water sources with hose 
connectors on the end (I think so that "idiots" dont fill up their water 
tanks from it), so you cant use it.

You still need to carry the blue slinky hose...

Dave

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:46:55 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] vent cover

As noted, some 1960's Airstreams have a rogue opening size.  Best bet is
to measure the outside dimensions of the vent opening and contact Steve
Hintgen (info@xxxxxxxxxx.com) at AirstreamDreams.com and see if their
cover fits.  It is an excellent reproduction of the original.
Best of luck,
RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 12:14 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] vent cover
>
>
> I dont want to start up any thing about anyones business but
> I`m wondering
> if the 14 by 26 ? vent covers available as a replacement fit
> well on a 63
> (square cornered ) vent hole .
>    The previous owner`s homemade one on my trailer leaks like a peach
> basket , and the replacement one is pretty spendy , but
> making a new one
> custom wont be cheap either .
>    Seems I recall someone complaining about the fit on the list in the
> past, maybe it was made for the the rounded corner later model type or
> something ?? Anyway has anyone bought one for a 63 and are
> you happy with
> it ? And like I say , I dont want to start up a slurfest about anyones
> business or prices . Just does it fit and work as it should .
>   Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 14:16:24 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Floor replacement

> -----Original Message-----
> From: kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 7:02 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #15
>
> Q:  Since I have already removed the belly pan would it not
> make sense just to pull the body off the frame/floor to sand
> blast and paint the frame & then replace the floor?  Are
> there any draw backs to body removal vs using plywood spacers?

Pro Removal: Easier to cut and install the new flooring and insulation
and repair the frame - great time and way to install holding tanks
between the frames (over the axle)
Con: Shell is very unwieldy when not attached, and actually kinda heavy
(Airstream installed with out windows, etc). Need overhead lift and
space to drive out from under the shell.  Hard to align newly cut
plywood floor to the correct edge of the frames and the curvature.  Many
more skin fasteners required to be removed. Exposed to elements while
replacing if done outdoors - just ask Wayne Moore:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/wam52/lst?&.dir=/%2765+Caravel

>
> Q: The existing plywood is in such poor condition in the
> front and rear I will not be able to use is as a template for
> the new floor.  If I remove the body, would it be best to use
> the C channel as my template for the new floor, or is there a
> better way?

With the shell all wiggling around, it may be hard to use it as a
template, this is one of the cons.

>
> Q; I am planning to put a new belly pan on.  I would assume I
> would use the old pan as a template?  How difficult is it to
> put on a NEW pan?  Should it be "pre- bent" or .....

Use the old as a template to cut the new. If it is a simple wrap up, no
need to bend.  If it is a preformed corner, best bet is try and splice
it back in, or you may have to kerf-cut the edge to get it to wrap
around the corners.

>
> Q; What should I put between the frame and the new plywood
> floor?  Fiberglass? or is there a better material?  I have
> also read putting Styrofoam under the floor?

Unfaced fiberglass batts seem to work the best.

>
> Q: I would like to replace one lower outer skin panel of the
> 1956 Caravaneer (very front lower panel).  What is my best
> bet?  Can I find a panel of this aluminum make up?  Would
> Airstream have anything without plastic-coat?

The front panel is flat, good choice to replace. It is a little thicker
than the rest of the exterior to withstand roaddamage.  .040 2024-T3
from airparts.com is one source.

Best of luck,
RJ Dial

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 14:28:11 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] source for repair

You are most likely going to have to have it made at a sheetmetal shop
or an aircraft repair FBO that specializes in sheet metal repairs. They
can bend a repair piece for the frame to the correct cross section on
brake, and then shrink the one side to form the correct arc and bend.
May have to make a template so they can get the arc right.

Congrats on finding the segments you do have.

RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 10:41 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] source for repair
>
>
> Has anyone ever tried to replace the aluminum channel that
> makes up the
> framework of roof? I am replacing rear curved panels on '61 and just
> realized that a piece of the channel is damaged from tree vs.
> roof incident.
> I would like to replace it with aluminum channel but it has a
> curve to it
> and looks like something custom made. Any ideas?
>
> I have all of the segments that form the curve for
> replacement, however
> while I'm going to all of this trouble I would like to find
> one more segment
> to install. If you are looking at the rear endcap and the
> middle piece is
> No. 1, I need the segment that is two over from that if you move in a
> clockwise position.
>
> Maybe someone has a parts Airstream that they would be
> willing to sell some
> pieces of?
>
> Thanks for any leads.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 18:31:04 -0400
From: "T o m  :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!

Kevin,

Do you also have a battery powered oven and cooktop?

Tom

From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge? Bah, Humbug!


: Greetings Tom!
:
: As I said, the only disadvantage is the long cool down time on 12-volt - -
I
: have a total distaste for LP/Natural gas appliances so do not use that
: option unless it is a last choice alternative.  The cool down time on
: regular AC is four to six hours.
:
: Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 21:58:17 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!

A while back I had the replacement gas fridge go belly up and besides I got 
tired of the gas stink in the trailer and converted to all electric I have an 
electric or alchol cook top electric deep freeze under counter elictric fridge 
Ac and a electric hotwater tankwe almost do all cooking with the 
microwave.when travling I have a 4000watt honda RV generator on the road  I normaly run it 
about 4hours out of eavery 10 to12hours it keeps eavery thing ok It takes 
about 10 minuts to get hot water from a cold start I have enough watage to run 
almost eavery thing at once. in the campgrounds I need to be more careful as a 30 
amp hookup is not quite enough.For my life style I am convinced that all 
electric is the way to go.The cost was about the same as a solar systemand the 
generator does not weigh much more tan a bunch of battries.
Jim Smith and Little Hemroid(the Spitz pup)
1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
1992 Dodge Cummins diesel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:04:04 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com

In need of some advice.

My wife and I are in the process of restoring a 1956 Caravanner.  We have gutted the 
unit. Removed the belly pan. Removed the inner lower skin, cut the bolts and removed 
the shell.  We have some marine grade plywood on order (11ply).  Now the QUESTIONS :o)

Q: The existing plywood is in such poor condition in the front and rear I will not
be able to use is as a template for the new floor.  If I remove the body, would it
be best to use the C channel as my template for the new floor, or is there a better
way?

Q; I am planning to put a new belly pan on.  I would assume I would use the old 
pan as a template?  How difficult is it to put on a NEW pan?  Should it be "pre-
bent" or ..... is it best to have Airstream do it?

Q; What should I put between the frame and the new plywood floor?  Fiberglass? or
is there a better material? 

Q: I would like to replace one lower outer skin panel of the 1956 Caravaneer (very
front lower panel).  What is my best bet?  Can I find a panel of this aluminum make
up?  Would Airstream have anything without plastic-coat?

Thanks

Kevin & Valerie Chop
#5585

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:19:13 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com

Why in the worild wouldyou want to spend the money for 11 ply marine plywood 
for a trailer floor? you do not need any more streangth than you would get 
with exterior ply wood the glue is the same in both. unless treated especially 
arounrd the edges both will rot with equal speed.I have built many boats in my 
time and for the soles(floors) we used exterior ply we cored the decks with 
exterior plywood.there is no doubt that 11 plywoodwill do the job but why spend 
the extry$$$$$$$$$ /Its your cow.
Jim smith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 20:07:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Truitt <morzarty@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada

I have a question about buying a used trailer in Canada.  What is
involved?
Taxes, Duty, Customs, Transfer of title? Michigan Plates.  All help is
appreciated.  Thank you. John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 21:53:03 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <woodfloor@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada

Hi John
I am in Calgary, Alberta and have purchased 1 trailer locally as well as 1
in Ohio. In Canada you do not pay any tax on a used trailer if you purchase
it privately. if bought from a dealer you are charged 7% goods and services
tax (gst) and applicable provincial tax (no provincial sales tax in
Alberta). I know you can claim a refund on gst when you return to the U.S.
but I'm not sure about the provincial tax.

If you bring a Michigan plate you should be fine. I checked at the border on
my way to get the trailer in Ohio and they said no problem moving. (from
U.S. to Canada)

I don't think any duty is charged on used trailers.

Good luck
Terry O'Neill
66 tradewind
Calgary
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Truitt" <morzarty@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 9:07 PM
Subject: [VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada


> I have a question about buying a used trailer in Canada.  What is
> involved?
> Taxes, Duty, Customs, Transfer of title? Michigan Plates.  All help is
> appreciated.  Thank you. John
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:38:46 -0400
From: "T o m  :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com

There are no gaps or spaces in Marine Grade plywood - each layer is solid
100%, no strips missing like you see on the ends of other plywood.

My 1969 Int'l Ambassador has a floor that is made of 3/4" Marine Grade
plywood.  When I needed to repair a small place by the entry door that is
exactly what I used.  I believe I called the factory OR the floor material
was mentioned in the original sales literature.  The factory sent me copies
of the original sales literature even though it was nearly 20 years old when
I got it.

There is a difference between Marine Grade plywood and others.  Exterior
plywood may use the same glues as you claim but what about the gaps in the
layers?  I think that is where Marine Grade applies.  The Marine Grade is
also treated plywood, can't say I know if exterior is or not.  Is it?  I
don't know.

And for a one time replacement job why not do it right to begin with?  Why
try and cut corners anywhere for that matter?  You are working and trying to
make a good trailer better are you not?

Tom
WBCCI 5303

From: <JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com


: Why in the worild wouldyou want to spend the money for 11 ply marine
plywood
: for a trailer floor? you do not need any more streangth than you would get
: with exterior ply wood the glue is the same in both. unless treated
especially
: arounrd the edges both will rot with equal speed.I have built many boats
in my
: time and for the soles(floors) we used exterior ply we cored the decks
with
: exterior plywood.there is no doubt that 11 plywoodwill do the job but why
spend
: the extry$$$$$$$$$ /Its your cow.
: Jim smith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:45:04 -0400
From: "T o m  :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!

Jim,

Did you mount the 4kw generator or is it in the back of your truck?  I'm
seriously thinking of adding generator power to our 1995 34' Excella Classic
FK trailer - there is a place underneath the front kitchen cabinet that has
an LED switch that says "Generator" but I never even knew it was possible to
put one in there to begin with.  We are the 3rd owners of the particular
trailer.

Tom
WBCCI 5303
1995 34' Excella Classic FK
1969 29' International Ambassador
2001 Ford Excursion 4x4 7.3-l Powerstroke Diesel
1990 Ford Bronco 4x4 351 V-8 (5.8-l I think it is)
and some more stuff ;)


From: <JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge? Bah, Humbug!


: A while back I had the replacement gas fridge go belly up and besides I
got
: tired of the gas stink in the trailer and converted to all electric I have
an
: electric or alchol cook top electric deep freeze under counter elictric
fridge
: Ac and a electric hotwater tankwe almost do all cooking with the
: microwave.when travling I have a 4000watt honda RV generator on the road
I normaly run it
: about 4hours out of eavery 10 to12hours it keeps eavery thing ok It takes
: about 10 minuts to get hot water from a cold start I have enough watage to
run
: almost eavery thing at once. in the campgrounds I need to be more careful
as a 30
: amp hookup is not quite enough.For my life style I am convinced that all
: electric is the way to go.The cost was about the same as a solar systemand
the
: generator does not weigh much more tan a bunch of battries.
: Jim Smith and Little Hemroid(the Spitz pup)
: 1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
: 1992 Dodge Cummins diesel

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End of VAL Digest V1 #21
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