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VAL Digest V1 #196



VAL Digest           Tuesday, March 23 2004           Volume 01 : Number 196




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Balancing wheels
[VAL] Re: VAL Lansing electricity
Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels
Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?
Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels
Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels
Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels
Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?
[VAL] Curtains
Re: [VAL] BLinds
Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels
Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels
[VAL] side winder jack
Re: [VAL] skin repair
Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?
Re: [VAL] BLinds
Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels
Re: [VAL] side winder jack
RE: [VAL] Aluminum gauge
Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?
Re: [VAL] side winder jack
Re: [VAL] side winder jack
[VAL] Joann, did you think of this for blinds?
Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?
[VAL] furnace malfunction
Re: [VAL] skin repair
Re: [VAL] furnace malfunction
[VAL] Re: '56 Bubble Questions
Re: [VAL] Joann, did you think of this for blinds?
[VAL] Joann - it's Pleated Blinds - never mind the balloons
Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels
[VAL] Pleated Blinds, Cellular Shades by Levelor, etc
[VAL] blinds, shades - by other names - these work
Re: [VAL] blinds, shades - by other names - these work
Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 11:39:40 -0500
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Balancing wheels

Hello All, I know there has been a great deal of chatter about balancing
the wheel etc. and I have found a buisness that can do the balancing
with wheels on the TT. However, the technician said he would have to get
the TT jacked up at least 2' and have room behind the wheel to get his
machine in place. The problem you have probably already figured out is
you have to place the jack where the machine must be to do its work. Can
you lift the single axle of a "57" Overlander in front wheels? Any help
appreciated.
Jerry
57 Overlander (ready finally for the shake-down cruise)
WBCCI VAC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 12:18:56 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Lansing electricity

Dallas,

The 30 amp electricity is advertised for general parking. General parking
means just that, general. Not special parking like doggie, or vintage. So, I
doubt it, but if enough of us were to contact WBCCI with that request then
it may become a reality.

Scott

>
> Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:26:30 -0500
> From: "Dallas Peak, MD FACEP" <emergint@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Lansing
>
> Does anyone know if we'll have the 30amp electric available in the Vintage
> parking area at the rally?
>
> Dallas
> #8481
> '72 Sovereign
> '78 Excella 500)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 12:27:58 EST
From: Pemayeux@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

I took care of the balancing situation on my '62 Overlander by purchasing a 
set of Centramatic balancers. They mount between the wheel and the brake drum 
so installation is a snap. A set was only $174.00 at the local heavy truck tire 
shop. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 10:00:49 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?

I'm thinking 1" wood slat blinds for Bubble. Anybody have experience 
with blinds in lieu of curtains? My trailer has a pretty good see-thru, 
front to rear and it's good to be able to see behind the trailer when 
towing so I want something that "disappears" when I want max 
visibility.
Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 10:17:48 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

Jerry - as one of my workmen says, "You can do anything"...."if you 
throw enough money at it"....I do think you may be throwing money away 
because all the engineers friends and colleagues to whom I've spoken, 
(mechanical, vibration, aeronautical, etc.) concur that putting the 
whole thing up in the air to balance hub, brake drum, etc. is not 
necessary, Andy to the contrary. So I'm following their advice and I'll 
see how it goes.
Jo Ann
On 22, Mar 2004, at 8:39 AM, Jerry Jarrell wrote:

> Hello All, I know there has been a great deal of chatter about 
> balancing
> the wheel etc. and I have found a buisness that can do the balancing
> with wheels on the TT. However, the technician said he would have to 
> get
> the TT jacked up at least 2' and have room behind the wheel to get his
> machine in place. The problem you have probably already figured out is
> you have to place the jack where the machine must be to do its work. 
> Can
> you lift the single axle of a "57" Overlander in front wheels? Any help
> appreciated.
> Jerry
> 57 Overlander (ready finally for the shake-down cruise)
> WBCCI VAC
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 11:09:56 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

> I took care of the balancing situation on my '62 Overlander by purchasing
a
> set of Centramatic balancers. They mount between the wheel and the brake
drum
> so installation is a snap. A set was only $174.00 at the local heavy truck
tire
> shop.

Hey, I just did a little Google search on these things and they don't look
too bad.  And consider that if single-axle folks buddy up they could get a
set for $174 / 2 = $87 or so (they come in sets of 4)

http://www.centramatic.com/New_Catalog/index.php

Food for thought... if you don't mind the "swish-swish".

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 13:14:57 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

I'd apply a 3 or 4 inch wide flange I beam across the jacking pads, with
a half inch or inch board on the jacking pads. Then I could jack inboard
(or outboard) and still be lifting only on the Airstream frame and not
against the unsupported belly skin. The motor drive for spinning the
wheels I remember being used in the late 50s was planned for wheels at
the corner of the vehicle, not near the middle as is the practice in
trailers. I'm sure a modified spinner could have been made for trailer
wheels.

For home use, I've considered some short of conical friction clutch to
drive on the hub or bearing cap, using a variable speed electric drill.
Then I'd have to judge the balance with a sensitive (perhaps
sandpapered) finger tip on the trailer body or frame, maybe the axle, to
decide if the vibration was acceptable. While the scheme would not be
easily or quickly accomplished, it could be accomplished at a low cost,
if I had a collection of weights to try. I suppose I could visit a tire
shop and sweep the floor around the tire machines to find a plentiful
collection of slightly used weights.

Maybe a trailer wheel spin balancing operation would be a workable
retirement entrepreneurial operation someday should I retire and still
be able to move about.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 13:44:15 -0600
From: "Buddy" <buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?

Jo Ann:

I have slat blinds in mine and they look good and work fine.  Had'em made to
size & length at Lowes.

Buddy Atwood

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:05:23 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Curtains

On Monday, March 22, 2004, at 01:00 AM, VAL Digest wrote:

> Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:07:23 EST
> From: Hmcsteph@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Where to get curtains?
>
> Any good ideas on how to get replacement curtains, in another color 
> beside
> original. We are wanting Navy or royal blue. (1969 safari 23ft)
>
Why don't you ask Arlene Fowler in Paducah, Kentucky? She restores the 
interiors of Airstreams all the time. I'm sure she'd send you the 
curtains sewn to your specifications or generic to a '69 23' Airstream. 
Her cell phone number is 1.270.851.3257 and be ready to leave a message.

Terry

mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:31:34 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] BLinds

Hi joann,

I'm a big devotee of blinds. I must have had a bad childhood experience 
with pinch pleated curtains, because I really don't like them. I think 
they make the trailer seem dark and crowded.

Blinds go up and away to let lots of light in, or you can drop them and 
angle them for shade and still spy on the neighbors.

I used wooden ones in the bedroom after experimenting with cheap 
plastice ones everywhere else.  I cut them to fit, and put a thin bungee 
under the botttom rail that slips over the window locks to keep the 
bottoms pulled in. I travel with them all open.

Daisy

Joann Wheatley wrote:

> I'm thinking 1" wood slat blinds for Bubble. Anybody have experience 
> with blinds in lieu of curtains? My trailer has a pretty good see-thru, 
> front to rear and it's good to be able to see behind the trailer when 
> towing so I want something that "disappears" when I want max visibility.
> Jo Ann
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 13:49:20 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

That sounded like a good plan to me. If I have any balance problems, 
once I get this Al heap on the road, I will look at that system very 
closely. Since I have only one axle and they come in a set of four(?) I 
wonder if I could put them on one axle of the pickup truck tow vehicle?
Jo Ann
On 22, Mar 2004, at 9:27 AM, Pemayeux@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> I took care of the balancing situation on my '62 Overlander by 
> purchasing a
> set of Centramatic balancers. They mount between the wheel and the 
> brake drum
> so installation is a snap. A set was only $174.00 at the local heavy 
> truck tire
> shop.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 13:51:02 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

What a good idea - split a set with someone else. What "swish-swish"? I 
usually have the CD player going so I doubt I'd hear anything but is it 
very loud?
Jo Ann
>
> Hey, I just did a little Google search on these things and they don't 
> look
> too bad.  And consider that if single-axle folks buddy up they could 
> get a
> set for $174 / 2 = $87 or so (they come in sets of 4)
>
> http://www.centramatic.com/New_Catalog/index.php
>
> Food for thought... if you don't mind the "swish-swish".
>
> GQ '67 Safari

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 16:46:05 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] side winder jack

I while back someone wrote that they got a side winder jack. I am looking
for a new manual jack and found out the hard way that the new Atwood top
winder jack will not clear my propane tanks. The side winder models
available seem to have a 2000# max. I am thinking that this low of a limit
would make it difficult to lift the rear of my loaded 3/4 ton truck high
enough to install the weight distribution bars. Does anyone know of a top
winder with a shorter handle, or a side winder with a capacity greater than
2000#? I would really hate to spend $300 on an electric jack!

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 13:53:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair

...or you can find a good aluminum welder if your
area.  I'm not sure how well t3 2024 welds, but you
could ask around!

Toby

- --- Thomas LaVergne <tlavergne@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> Chuck,
> I had the same problem on my 1978 Ambassador when I
> bought it.  The PO had
> filled the cut with silicon.  It does not leak but
> the folks at Jackson
> Center suggested that I get all of the silicon out,
> clean the skin well and
> fill it again with vulkum.  The other option would
> be to replace the panel
> which is something I really do not want to do.
> Thomas
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <SHMossLanding@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Looking for information on skin repair. We have
> about a 4 inch cut in the
> > alumunim skin. It has penitrated four about 3
> inchs. Does anyone know how
> to
> > repair this or had it done, and what we might be
> looking at as far as cost
> of such
> > a repair. Looking at buying this trailer, gave
> deposit and now it's
> damaged.
> > Should I get the trailer, or pass to find another
> one. Need info right
> away,
> > the gentleman is waiting for my decision.
> >
> >                                                 
> Thanks,
> >                                                   
>     Chuck
> 
>
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> unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
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>
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> 
> 


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Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 14:09:43 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?

Wow, that sounds great. I didn't realize Lowes did that kind of custom 
work. Do they have a thing for fastening the blind to the bottom so 
they don't flop around?
Jo Ann
On 22, Mar 2004, at 11:44 AM, Buddy wrote:

> Jo Ann:
>
> I have slat blinds in mine and they look good and work fine.  Had'em 
> made to
> size & length at Lowes.
>
> Buddy Atwood

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 14:10:47 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] BLinds

Thanks for the info Daisy. That sounds like what I want.
Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 14:25:03 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

> What a good idea - split a set with someone else. What "swish-swish"? I
> usually have the CD player going so I doubt I'd hear anything but is it
> very loud?
> Jo Ann

Hey Jo Ann:

Apparently, when going <5MPH, the BBs inside the "donut" tend to collect at
the bottom and go "swish-swish" until they are spun at a higher RPM and
deploy themselves.  Take a look at the tech articles that are found when
doing a Google search.  Pretty nifty invention (it seems).

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:30:17 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] side winder jack

Scott

Have you thought of using the old handle off your old jack?

Ken J.

At 04:46 PM 03/22/04 -0500, you wrote:
>I while back someone wrote that they got a side winder jack. I am looking
>for a new manual jack and found out the hard way that the new Atwood top
>winder jack will not clear my propane tanks. The side winder models
>available seem to have a 2000# max. I am thinking that this low of a limit
>would make it difficult to lift the rear of my loaded 3/4 ton truck high
>enough to install the weight distribution bars. Does anyone know of a top
>winder with a shorter handle, or a side winder with a capacity greater than
>2000#? I would really hate to spend $300 on an electric jack!
>
>Scott
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 18:19:16 -0500
From: "lindac" <lrobinson1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Aluminum gauge

Ron,

The aluminum on my 49 Liner is:
	Outer skin		0.040
	Inner skin		0.020
	Belly wrap		0.032

The original labeling is almost like new on the inside of all the walls.

Contact me off-line if you need more details.

John
Way too deep into a 49.

- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of Ron Fridlind
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 6:30 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Aluminum gauge


Hi everyone-

I am about to begin making repairs to a 1948 Liner and
I need to know what gauge of aluminum was used on this
model.

Thanks for any info you can give me.

Ron Fridlind
Tucson, Arizona


__________________________________
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Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 17:17:19 -0600
From: "Buddy" <buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?

Joann:

I did the same thing Daisy Does (Great Minds, etc..), a very  small bungee
type elastic cord to tie them in place on either end.

Buddy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 18:58:05 -0800
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] side winder jack

. Does anyone know of a top
> winder with a shorter handle, or a side winder with a capacity greater
than
> 2000#? I would really hate to spend $300 on an electric jack!

Scott,
Rigid Hitch Inc @1-800-624-7630 has  a side winder jack made by Fulton
Performance Products rated @ 3000#. Part # JA-314-S. It lists in their
catalog @ $46.95.
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 16:39:48 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] side winder jack

> I while back someone wrote that they got a side winder jack. I am looking
> for a new manual jack and found out the hard way that the new Atwood top
> winder jack will not clear my propane tanks. The side winder models
> available seem to have a 2000# max. I am thinking that this low of a limit
> would make it difficult to lift the rear of my loaded 3/4 ton truck high
> enough to install the weight distribution bars. Does anyone know of a top
> winder with a shorter handle, or a side winder with a capacity greater
than
> 2000#? I would really hate to spend $300 on an electric jack!
>
> Scott

Hey Scott:

You got me thinking about my jack, which is making some pretty ominous
noises lately and very difficult to crank (yeah, I lubricated it).  Anyhow,
I was given a cast-off sidewinder jack which came from a pal who got an
electic one.  So I took a look at it just now and found that it is rated for
1000#.  Several things now come to mind:

1.  You have to be careful that what you replace your jack with has a column
diameter that will fit through the hole in the A-frame gusset otherwise you
will find yourself grinding it out so that the jack will fit through. The
bolt circle and hole size should be looked at too.

2.  I am comfortable with the 1000# rating for my application (Safari 22 /
398# nominal hitch weight).  I am trying to imagine why you would need to
jack up the back of the truck in order to install the spring bars.  On mine,
as long as I don't place any trailer load on the ball, I can pull the chain
brackets up.  I do persuade them a little with an 18" hunk of pipe used as a
lever.  But it takes very little force and they pop right on.  THEN I lower
the trailer load down onto the ball (truck) and the spring bars do their
thing.  So I can't figure out why you would need to lift the truck in order
to install the bars and hence require more than a 2000# jack.

Am I missing something here?  I am just curious if you don't mind.

Oh, and one other thing.  Normally, I can lower the tailgate and it nearly
lays down so I can get in the back of the truck or get stuff out etc.  It
eventually hits the jack column.  I have a plastic bed liner type cover on
the tailgate that doesn't mangle either much.  What I nearly missed is that
if I installed the sidewinder jack the handle will be facing forward and I
will have to be very careful and make sure it is in the "up" position or I
will do a number on the tailgate when I open it.  That one was kind of
subtle.

Later,

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

PS:  Lately I've helped several members of my unit hitch up that had
electric jacks and I must say that it is a VERY pleasant experience
(wouldn't hit my tailgate either....hmmmm)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 19:54:42 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Joann, did you think of this for blinds?

Joann,

Have you seen the "balloon blinds" that are made of fabric and come with
newer RVs?  They work in 3 different ways.  All the way up and you look
right out the window.  First segment of the balloon blind going from fully
up position lets you see out in the daytime but no one can see into your
trailer unless you have the lights on from the inside.  Second segment of
the blind really darkens the trailer and gives you privacy.

Now on privacy - I read Daisy's post about "spying on the neighbors" so I
must make a disclaimer here that IF Daisy is one of your neighbors then you
must have room darkening shades which you must then tape to the trailer
walls with heavy-duty duct tape.  If you don't have duct tape aluminum tape
works just as well. ;)

The balloon blinds (I'm sure I've seen them called that at the stores) also
ride up and down on a very tight string for lack of a better word.  This
string is securely attached at the bottom which forces the blind to hug the
wall even at the angle our trailers are built with.

We have the plastic levelor blinds in our older Airstream but when we redo
it up right I will remove and replace those old levelors with these newer,
much nicer balloon blinds.

Tom

From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> I'm thinking 1" wood slat blinds for Bubble. Anybody have experience
> with blinds in lieu of curtains? My trailer has a pretty good see-thru,
> front to rear and it's good to be able to see behind the trailer when
> towing so I want something that "disappears" when I want max
> visibility.
> Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 21:32:38 -0500
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Where to get curtains?

I used Lowe's for my blinds too. Try the 1/2 inches mini's with the satin 
aluminum finish. They look like they originally came with my Airstream
Bob Patterson


At 05:09 PM 3/22/2004, you wrote:
>Wow, that sounds great. I didn't realize Lowes did that kind of custom 
>work. Do they have a thing for fastening the blind to the bottom so they 
>don't flop around?
>Jo Ann
>On 22, Mar 2004, at 11:44 AM, Buddy wrote:
>
>>Jo Ann:
>>
>>I have slat blinds in mine and they look good and work fine.  Had'em made to
>>size & length at Lowes.
>>
>>Buddy Atwood
>
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 21:40:57 EST
From: Timbell524@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] furnace malfunction

  I have a '73 Overlander with an '83 pilotless ignition furnace. Last fall 
the furnace would not start unless I jumped the two thermostat wires.  Does 
anyone know if I have a bad thermostat, thermostat relay, or some other problem?

Thanks,
 
Tim Bell WBCCI #4999

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 21:58:17 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] skin repair

It dosnt weld ,it cracks .
Chris

Toby Folwick wrote:

> ...or you can find a good aluminum welder if your
> area.  I'm not sure how well t3 2024 welds, but you
> could ask around!
>
> Toby
>
> --- T

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 22:04:46 -0500
From: Pete Highlands <satdjpete@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] furnace malfunction

 Hey Tim,
       If all you did was jump the thermostat wires! yes you have a bad 
thermostat.
                        Pete WBCCI VAC N3RLJ

>Does 
>anyone know if I have a bad thermostat, thermostat relay, or some other problem?
>
>Thanks,
> 
>Tim Bell WBCCI #4999
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 23:09:42 EST
From: Okydokey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: '56 Bubble Questions

Hi Amanda,

We own a '55 30' Liner.  Our rig has a pull out electrical cord, 2 prong.  
The grey water comes out the same opening as the black water but has a dump 
valve for the blackwater tank.  It has been tinkered with by the previous owner 
but is very close to original.  I'll explain how I rigged ours up for grey water 
the best I can. It has a screw on (full threads) male sewer hose fitting 
which I guess is a Thetford style (?) on the drain pipe.  I was able to attach a 
new modern sewer hose to the thetford female adapter for dumping purposes.  To 
attach to the "Blue Lagoon"  I rigged up a threaded PVC pipe adapter to screw 
on to the drain on the trailer, I then attached the modern barb type fitting 
to it with a rubber "Fernco" coupling and (2) 4" hose clamps (both pvc fittings 
were shortened to gain clearance). I can then attach the garden hose type 
sewer cap to the trailer and run a short length of garden hose to the garden hose 
fitting on the blue lagoon (where the gauge might go).  I put a gauge in 
another barb type cap (they have a hose fitting already) and put it on loosely to 
allow it to vent.  By doing it that way I don't have to worry about using the 
sewer hose for grey water (which I dump daily with 5 of us using the rig) and 
worry about handling the dump hose more than I want, monitor the blue tank 
level and remove the tank easily with the garden hose rather than having a deluge 
come out a standard sewer hose which would not please me or any neighbors!  
Hope this might help.  Oh, just for the heck of it, if it is the original 
wiring block he may want to purchase a couple spare screw in fuses, we learned the 
hard way last September  : ) 

Jason Jablonski
#15562

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 20:16:28 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Joann, did you think of this for blinds?

Humm...not sure about what balloon blinds are but I'll look around. I 
just had some fabric honeycomb blinds put in bedroom and bath that are 
interesting. They go up and down as usual, but when all the way down, 
they can be lowered from the top so a "peeper" would see your head 
going by but that's it. Nice for ventilation and privacy. However, 
although they are supposed to be top notch, I notice that the cords are 
starting to do that maddening thing where they go all twistie...I need 
a tiny mirror to look in while they're in action so I can see what's 
going on. Blinds and curtains can make me nuts. I recall my Mom had 
curtains on rings and they simply were flung open or closed or anywhere 
in between. In fact, the more I think about it, the more I think I'll 
go with
Reynolds Aluminum Wrap. If it's good enough for Bubba and Baby, it's 
good enough for me.
Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 00:00:39 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Joann - it's Pleated Blinds - never mind the balloons

Joann,

Try "pleated blinds" - that is what I'm talking about.

Don't know where I got that "balloon" part - ;)

Pleated Blinds - they work great.

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Joann, did you think of this for blinds?


> Humm...not sure about what balloon blinds are but I'll look around. I 
> just had some fabric honeycomb blinds put in bedroom and bath that are 
> interesting. They go up and down as usual, but when all the way down, 
> they can be lowered from the top so a "peeper" would see your head 
> going by but that's it. Nice for ventilation and privacy. However, 
> although they are supposed to be top notch, I notice that the cords are 
> starting to do that maddening thing where they go all twistie...I need 
> a tiny mirror to look in while they're in action so I can see what's 
> going on. Blinds and curtains can make me nuts. I recall my Mom had 
> curtains on rings and they simply were flung open or closed or anywhere 
> in between. In fact, the more I think about it, the more I think I'll 
> go with
> Reynolds Aluminum Wrap. If it's good enough for Bubba and Baby, it's 
> good enough for me.
> Jo Ann
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 23:04:03 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

I've looked over the Centramatic web page. I still have many questions.

I only took one year of college level physics, plus statics and dynamics
of machine parts. There may be something I'm missing, but...

They say the weights are driven to the balanced position by the bounce
of the unbalanced tire as it hits the road after lifting from the tire
initial unbalance. It escapes me how this can result in balance because
the impact will be sometime after the heavy side of the assembly was at
the top.

What happens when you hot a large pot hole at speed? Does that impact
unbalance the wheel? Can you stand a 12 ounce unbalance on a front wheel
instantly after hitting a chuckhole at highway speed? I don't think I
care to find out.

If the concept is so great, how come GM and Ford as well as
Daimler-Chrysler don't apply them to all their vehicles? Any one is big
enough to have bought out Centramatic.

How come its not standard practice to toss in a handful of lead shot and
some oil in every tire at the initial assembly, factory or after market?

How come its not used on race cars? Why do they depend on the modern
computer based spin balance machine?

Every time I've had a mass that could move on the rotation center and
could move off center, the initial unbalance immediately caused it to go
to the limits of any restraints as the centrifugal force increased with
the distance off center. (Like a 45 RPM record on a turntable without
the centering adapter). This experience makes me wonder if the
Centramatic balancers actually do anything at all. Are they another form
of snake oil?

When a maker skips over the details of how a product works but depends
on testimonials, that is often a sign of snake oil.

There used to be a Hunter spin wheel balancing set that would fit under
the Airstream without a major problem. One is on ebay, located in Texas,
asking $150 to start but the reserve is probably higher. I see on the
Hunter page that their current on vehicle model made for trucks does
require a couple feet of fender clearance, not uncommon in trucks.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 00:04:19 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Pleated Blinds, Cellular Shades by Levelor, etc

Also try - Cellular Shades - by Levelor and others.

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Joann, did you think of this for blinds?


> Humm...not sure about what balloon blinds are but I'll look around. I 
> just had some fabric honeycomb blinds put in bedroom and bath that are 
> interesting. They go up and down as usual, but when all the way down, 
> they can be lowered from the top so a "peeper" would see your head 
> going by but that's it. Nice for ventilation and privacy. However, 
> although they are supposed to be top notch, I notice that the cords are 
> starting to do that maddening thing where they go all twistie...I need 
> a tiny mirror to look in while they're in action so I can see what's 
> going on. Blinds and curtains can make me nuts. I recall my Mom had 
> curtains on rings and they simply were flung open or closed or anywhere 
> in between. In fact, the more I think about it, the more I think I'll 
> go with
> Reynolds Aluminum Wrap. If it's good enough for Bubba and Baby, it's 
> good enough for me.
> Jo Ann
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 00:09:01 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] blinds, shades - by other names - these work

Joann,

Forget the term I used - balloon blinds.  I still need to invent them! ;)

Rather, try pleated blinds, cellular shades, and the honeycomb cellular
shades.

These are the type of shades installed on our newer Airstream.  All the way
up, you see right out the window.  Halfway down you see out but no one sees in
during daytime.  All the way down you have privacy at night.  I like them very
much and will install the same on our older 1969 International Ambassador
also.

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 00:29:36 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] blinds, shades - by other names - these work

All the below named products would also be - CORDLESS - which is what the
newer Airstreams have.  The cords are anchored and you merely slide the
shades up, down or in-between.  Great design.

Tom


> Joann,
>
> Forget the term I used - balloon blinds.  I still need to invent them! ;)
>
> Rather, try pleated blinds, cellular shades, and the honeycomb cellular
> shades.
>
> These are the type of shades installed on our newer Airstream.  All the
way
> up, you see right out the window.  Halfway down you see out but no one
sees in
> during daytime.  All the way down you have privacy at night.  I like them
very
> much and will install the same on our older 1969 International Ambassador
> also.
>
> Tom
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 00:47:20 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels

Dr G,

Did you watch the video on their site?

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 12:04 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Balancing wheels


> I've looked over the Centramatic web page. I still have many questions.
> 
> I only took one year of college level physics, plus statics and dynamics
> of machine parts. There may be something I'm missing, but...
> 
> They say the weights are driven to the balanced position by the bounce
> of the unbalanced tire as it hits the road after lifting from the tire
> initial unbalance. It escapes me how this can result in balance because
> the impact will be sometime after the heavy side of the assembly was at
> the top.
> 
> What happens when you hot a large pot hole at speed? Does that impact
> unbalance the wheel? Can you stand a 12 ounce unbalance on a front wheel
> instantly after hitting a chuckhole at highway speed? I don't think I
> care to find out.
> 
> If the concept is so great, how come GM and Ford as well as
> Daimler-Chrysler don't apply them to all their vehicles? Any one is big
> enough to have bought out Centramatic.
> 
> How come its not standard practice to toss in a handful of lead shot and
> some oil in every tire at the initial assembly, factory or after market?
> 
> How come its not used on race cars? Why do they depend on the modern
> computer based spin balance machine?
> 
> Every time I've had a mass that could move on the rotation center and
> could move off center, the initial unbalance immediately caused it to go
> to the limits of any restraints as the centrifugal force increased with
> the distance off center. (Like a 45 RPM record on a turntable without
> the centering adapter). This experience makes me wonder if the
> Centramatic balancers actually do anything at all. Are they another form
> of snake oil?
> 
> When a maker skips over the details of how a product works but depends
> on testimonials, that is often a sign of snake oil.
> 
> There used to be a Hunter spin wheel balancing set that would fit under
> the Airstream without a major problem. One is on ebay, located in Texas,
> asking $150 to start but the reserve is probably higher. I see on the
> Hunter page that their current on vehicle model made for trucks does
> require a couple feet of fender clearance, not uncommon in trucks.
> 
> Gerald J.
> -- 
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #196
*************************


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