The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #190
VAL Digest Wednesday, March 17 2004 Volume 01 : Number 190
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Re:clearcoat question
[VAL] Re: Clearcoat question
[VAL] Sealing seams internally
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #189
Re: [VAL] Sealing seams internally
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #189
[VAL] RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Re: [VAL] Re: jacking trailer
Re: [VAL] Curtain Track needed
[VAL] Vintage Vacations Rallies
Re: [VAL] Sewer Connector for 1963 Tradewind
[VAL] Possible Wheel/Hub balance alternatives
[VAL] another wood finish question
[VAL] Hot Water Relief Valve
Re: [VAL] another wood finish question
[VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
[VAL] Water Heater Mystery
Re: [VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
Re: [VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
Re: [VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
RE: [VAL] Re: jacking trailer
Re: [VAL] Water Heater Mystery
[VAL] Unit History
[VAL] Scott re:another wood finish question
Re: [VAL] Possible Wheel/Hub balance alternatives
[VAL] Hello everyone!
Re: [VAL] Hello everyone!
RE: [VAL] Hello everyone!
Re: [VAL] Hello everyone!
[VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
RE: [VAL] Possible Wheel/Hub balance alternatives
Re: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Re: [VAL] Sewer Connector for 1963 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Re: [VAL] Hello everyone!
[VAL] Joy; re: Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Re: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Re: [VAL] Vintage Vacations Rallies
Re: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Re: [VAL] another wood finish question
Re: [VAL] Re: jacking trailer
[VAL] Re: Hello everyone!
Re: [VAL] New to the group!
RE: [VAL] another wood finish question
Re: [VAL] Re: Hello everyone!
Re: [VAL] Jacking
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Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:01:13 -0800
From: Stan Nicholson <stan@xxxxxxxxxx.ucsb.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Re:clearcoat question
Graeme -
Let me second (third?) Amanda and Jim's endorsement of the Napier
stripper. Regarding quantity, two gallons was just right for my
peeling and filiform-corroded 27 foot Overlander. Regarding sources,
I was prepared to order from Aircraft Spruce, but on a whim called
Napier. A very helpful salesperson made sure we were talking about
the right product for my application (they make many versions), and
then came up with the name of a store ten miles from home that
carries the stripper under a house brand name! If you can find a
local source, it can save money by buying single gallons as you need
them, rather than five gallons (unless, of course, you're planning on
stripping a whole string of trailers, which does have its own appeal
. . .).
It's good that you're aware of the need for sixty-ish temps in using
the product.
Stan
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:16:50 -0800
From: Stan Nicholson <stan@xxxxxxxxxx.ucsb.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Clearcoat question
Graeme -
In a word, Yes, the plastic lenses need to be protected (not
necessarily removed). I found that using high quality (blue) masking
tape to completely cover the running lights worked quite well. The
Napier stripper is environmentally safe, in that it decomposes to
hydrogen & water, and in my case left only some old clearcoat bits on
the concrete driveway. A shop vac picked that gooey mess right up,
and presumably no local critters were harmed by what went down the
gutter.
That _doesn't_ mean the stripper is harmless - it can, after all,
lift clearcoat! I have sparkling running light lenses, but
unfortunately also have a few permanent souvenirs of the stripping
process in the form of small flecks on the lexan front window rock
guard, and on the left taillight lens of my Suburban. You can hose
the Napier right off the trailer, along with the clearcoat, but make
sure you hose it off _everything_ that's any kind of plastic, or you,
too, will have souvenirs. But I'd a lot rather have a few of those
mementos than the peeling clearcoat and uneven finish pre-Napier.
Stan
********************************
I was wondering with this Environmentally safe product. Do the plastic
lenses need to be removed (ie taillights and marker lights) before using the
product?
********************************
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 08:33:39 -0000
From: "Anthony Slocock" <anthony@xxxxxxxxxx.co.uk>
Subject: [VAL] Sealing seams internally
I'll chime in here as I have not seen anyone answer this yet.
Airstream use Sikaflex 221 internally, to seal all sheet joints, around
light fittings, window/ roof vents etc. before the trailers go in the water
test area. It is liberally applied as additional protection against
leakage - a very sensible practice in my view, IF you happen to have the
inner skin and insulation competely removed during a rebuild. The 221
product comes in cartridges like any mastic, although Airstream buy it in
bulk and its applied using a plastic spatula (I think). You can buy it in
single tubes from Airstream, in bulk from a supplier like JPC Specialities
in Philadelphia (800 220 4404), or your local hardware specialist no doubt.
For more info, the technical team at Sika Corporation are very helpful - 248
577 0020.
Anthony Slocock
eurostream.co.uk
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 06:13:21 -0500
From: "David Turner" <jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #189
Question:
What is the best position to place the jack when changing a tire on a single
axle Airstream?
There is always problems getting the tire under the fender area when placing
the jack under the spring area,should it be placed under the axle so the
spring/hub area can drop down for room to mount the wheel/tire?
I have always hesitated to jack up the Airstream under the axle area due to
concern of damage or bending the axle.
Thanks
jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 06:28:18 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sealing seams internally
Hi Anthony,
Unfortunately, my '74 Argosy had a liberal amount of interior sealant
applied to electrical wires to the marker lights and the tail light
assemblies. What happens is that the wires can no longer be pulled to
service the fixtures. Other times, the short wires pull from the
connectors. A real mess. My choice would be for the builder to try
something different, like marker lights that would be sealed from the
outside so they could be serviced by future restorers.
I had to remove the shower panel and use a rotozip to cut an opening in the
inner skin to reach the tail/stop light wires. The goo held one end of the
connector and it pulled loose when I tried to service the lights. Just a
word of advice that will ease future service of marker lights, etc. Marker
lights will always need to be serviced!
'69 Safari, Joy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Slocock" <anthony@xxxxxxxxxx.co.uk>
Subject: [VAL] Sealing seams internally
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 08:03:57 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #189
Hi JD,
My manual for the '69 Safari single axle says to place the jack under the
main frame rail. There's usually a 4" square aluminum plate riveted to the
belly in the proper location. I believe that the position is just to the
rear of the tire, quite close to the end of the axle mounting plate. I read
other information that said "NEVER" place the jack under the axle. Then,
your post seems to indicate that you have a pre-torsion (spring) axle unit?
The frame at the rear end of the spring should be strong enough to lift the
trailer without damage. Don't know what this says about putting skids on
the torsion axle to prevent damage to the drum/backing plate if a wheel is
lost. Maybe a bunch of mis-information because it isn't included in the
owner's manual or OEM accessory.
Of course, DON'T place the jack head directly against the lift point. Using
a block against the lift point spreads the load, but risks a slip of the
jack/block. I always provide a secondary support close to the jack just in
case something slips.
Changing a tire on a single axle makes me yearn for a tandem, no blocks, no
jack, etc.
Just my 2 cents of comment if you consider it worth that. In the meantime,
give me a tandem anytime.
Regards, '69 Safari, Joy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Turner" <jdturner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> What is the best position to place the jack when changing a tire on a
single
> axle Airstream?
> There is always problems getting the tire under the fender area when
placing
> the jack under the spring area,should it be placed under the axle so the
> spring/hub area can drop down for room to mount the wheel/tire?
> I have always hesitated to jack up the Airstream under the axle area due
to
> concern of damage or bending the axle.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 08:53:46 -0500
From: "Deborah Bede" <stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Hi Kevin:
I'm thinking about the same thing. With the interior skin removed I can see
all the places where water has come into the trailer, and it's just about
everywhere! The black sealant on the inside of the seams is coming off as
yours is, and just to do as much as I can to prevent future leaks I'm
planning to seal the inside of the seams. I was thinking about just running
a bead of Vulkem along each one, seems like it would be pretty quick to me.
I've also been trying to reduce the areas of corrosion on the inside of the
outer shell (my trailer had lots of water!) and have been using "Aluminum
Jelly" and a wire brush. It's going to take a few passes I think.
Deborah
1955 Bubble
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:05:31 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: jacking trailer
There is a special place for the jack to go. NOT on the axle, but under
neath. I think it is about a 3" square, and maybe marked with a J ? At
any rate they are located under the main support beams, in the case of
my '73, behind the rear wheel.
If you put it anywhere else, you may damage expensive things
Daisy
David Turner wrote:
> Question:
>
> What is the best position to place the jack when changing a tire on a single
> axle Airstream?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 06:00:33 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain Track needed
John,
Thank you , thank you, thank you, I'll call Charlie this morning.
Glyn
> From: John Leggett <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 21:47:37 -0800 (PST)
> To: VA List <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Curtain Track needed
>
> Glynn-
> I would call Charlie Burke at American Way RV 800-345-6651.
> If the stuff is commercailly available, he will find it. He helped me out
> when retrofitting my 1968 Safari a while back.
> John Leggett
> WBCCI #1154
> San Fran
> I'm relisting this plea for help in locating some curtain track for
>
> I'm having the dickens of a time locating the upper curtain track
> for
> over the galley in my 1969 Caravel.....................
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 06:16:16 -0800
From: "Craig Dorsey \"trail-r-boy\"" <trail-r-boy@vintage-vacations.com>
Subject: [VAL] Vintage Vacations Rallies
Howdy fellow trailerites
Craig here from Vintage Vacations.
I am just wanted to send out a reminder about all of the wonderful rallies
that we have coming up in the next few months. So far this year we are
holding 3 rallies and events that are going to all be incredible places to
be.
All of these events are open to all pre 1970 travel trailers, Motor homes
and tent trailers as well as being open to the public to come down and spend
a few hours with us and share in our passion for these vintage relics.
All of the events have limited campsites available and are filling up fast
so if you want to go, you need to send in your registration form as soon as
possible to ensure a site or you may have to wait till next year!
Here are the dates for the rallies
May 6-9, 2004
6th Annual Vintage Vacation Spring Rally
Newport Dunes Resort, Newport Beach Ca.
The Big One! With 100 sites reserved again this year(49 are filled to date)
we are all going to all have a wonderful time as we have in the past 4 years
at the same incredible location.
May 27-29, 2004
This year Vintage Vacations and 49 of our friends have been invited by the
So. Cal Chapter of the "American Truck Historical Society" (ATHS) to join in
on all of the fun at this years 25th Annual National Convention to be held
Memorial Weekend at the Fontana Speedway in Fontana, Ca.
August 12-15, 2004
"August in Tahoe" This year, Vintage Vacations is having a rally at Historic
Camp Richardson on the South Shores of breathtaking South Lake Tahoe. With
the classic wooden boat show on the lake as well as "Hot August Nights" just
down the hill in Reno the weekend before and the great Gatsby Festival
happening just next door to Camp Richardson the same time that we are there,
This promises to be the best "Vintage Vacations" rally yet. With only 30 of
the 75 reserved spaces remaining, this event is selling out fast and will
probably be sold out by the end of the month. So if you would like to
attend, you should make your reservation soon!
Please note that this rally has a 2 part reservation that needs to be
completed in full in order to comply! 1st call the campground and reserve a
space, 2nd print out the form on the website and send it to Vintage
Vacations with the registration fee for each campsite that you reserve!
You will find all of the information on each of these events as well as the
registration forms that need to completed and sent in as outlined for each
event on the Vintage Vacations website @ <http://www.vintage-vacations.com>
or by clicking on the rally roster page @
<http://www.vintage-vacations.com/2004_VV_rally_roster.htm>
I look forward to seeing you there.
Thank you
Craig Dorsey, Wagonmaster
Vintage Vacations, Restorers of classic trailers
714-812-6053
<http://www.vintage-vacations.com>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 11:32:20 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sewer Connector for 1963 Tradewind
You can order a Thetford dump valve from Southwest RV for about $35.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: BGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQTIPWIGYOK
To: VAList@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:VAList@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 1:38 PM
Subject: [VAL] Sewer Connector for 1963 Tradewind
Hi everyone,
I just missed out on a sewer connector for dumping the
black tank on a 1963 Tradewind that was on ebay. Does
anyone have an extra that they would be willing to
part with?
Thanks
Steve
1963 Tradewind
WBCCI # 1697
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:36:08 -00
From: "John Schubert" <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Possible Wheel/Hub balance alternatives
I have found the following links for wheel/hub balancing.
www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/900T-1/900t-1.htm
http://Centramatic.com/index.html
Powder I think is ok except if there is moisture/water in the tire
then it will clump and cause an imbalance. I used to think Andy was
off base with the subject considering the factory and dealers dont do
it and several dont even know what it means, but after talking with
several tractor trailer mechanics it is a factor and should be done
plus it is mentioned in my service manual anytime the wheel is
removed.
John
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 11:46:10 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] another wood finish question
I have a 1960 with the oak interior. It has never had a stain or a finish on
the wood. The papers that came with it instructed to use an oil on it...if
memory serves me it was Watco. Not finding Watco, over the last few years I
have used Lemon oil, but the wood has deepened in color and looks very nice
while the oil is still fresh, but after a few days the look fades away and
the wood is still very dry. It also gets water spots in it whenever a stray
drop hits it.
What can I do short of putting a finish on the wood that would both
moisturize it and protect it from getting water spots?
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 12:12:19 -0800
From: "S.W.Sandy" <swsandy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Hot Water Relief Valve
Hello out there,
My Suburban Hot Water heater was in need of a new relief valve.
I went to my local Plumbing supply dealer and found one for $8.40 plus Tax.
I also went to Camping World for some other goodies the same day, and did a
price check. The same valve was $32+ at CW!! Ouch!! Here is the info on the
relief valve:
Mfg. Watts Blue Ribbon Model
Model # No. 100XL
Temp. 210 degrees
Pressure 150 psi
NPT > inch
The only difference I could see, was the temperature sensor probe was 1 =
to 2 inches longer than the valve I removed. That shouldnt be a problem as
the tank is much deeper than the probe.
S. W. Sandy
Region 2 VAC Rep.
Woodstown, NJ
WBCCI & VAC
WBCCI # 4159
1970 Overlander 27', 1960 Pacer 17'
1999 Ford SD F250, V10
1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 L V8
E- Mail: swsandy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:38:47 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] another wood finish question
hello scott
lemon oil is nothing other than scented mineral oil which will evaporate
fairly rapidly. it only temporarily adds oil to the surface of the wood. i
would try any number of oil finishes which will feed the wood, bring back
the color that the lemon oil adds and add a certain amount of protection
from water etc. an oil finish will not be very shiny. watco is a good choice
in a natural clear finish. you can hand rub it into the wood or use a soft
lint free cloth. do not let it puddle and dry or it will leave a gummy build
up with a shine that you seem not to want. you may apply as many coats as
you wish following the instructions. additional coats will result in a bit
of more shine. since you do not want the shine that a varnish or
polyurethane provides, be careful with the use of some products marketed as
tung oil finish and the like, as many of these are nothing more than varnish
with small amounts of oil added. in my opinion, no oil finish will have the
same protection that a varnish or poly finish will have but then it is easy
to reapply the oil over time to achieve the look you want
good luck
harry
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 9:46 AM
Subject: [VAL] another wood finish question
> I have a 1960 with the oak interior. It has never had a stain or a finish
on
> the wood. The papers that came with it instructed to use an oil on it...if
> memory serves me it was Watco. Not finding Watco, over the last few years
I
> have used Lemon oil, but the wood has deepened in color and looks very
nice
> while the oil is still fresh, but after a few days the look fades away and
> the wood is still very dry. It also gets water spots in it whenever a
stray
> drop hits it.
>
> What can I do short of putting a finish on the wood that would both
> moisturize it and protect it from getting water spots?
>
> Scott
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:30:37 -0800
From: David Pfeffer <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
Subject: [VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
Folks:
First of all thanks for the input regarding wood treatment. I'm applying
Howard's wood restorer products and they work great. Secondly, my
Overlander has two small rocker switches, one is next to the front curb
side window and operates the outside light. The second switch is just
above the door and doesn't seem to do anything. I'm sure I'm missing
something. Thought it was a master switch for some interior lights but
that's not the case. If anyone has a late sixties trailer with the rocker
switch above the entry door I'd appreciate knowing it's purpose in life.
Thanks,
David Pfeffer
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:57:13 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Water Heater Mystery
Hi Folks:
I experienced a strange one a week or so ago. I arrived at a unit rally and
proceeded to set up the trailer at the spot. As usual, I forgot to do
something. This time it was: Light the Water Heater. So I went out in the
dark with a flashlight, chair, butane lighter, and went at it.
When it lit up, I noticed that the flame was yellow. I thought that I'd
never seen it in the dark before but I would have still expected it to be
blue. So after a while I decided to mess with the air shutter ring. Didn't
seem to alter the color any but a few time it flamed backwards and caught
the shutter area on fire. A quick manipulation of the shutter ring would
put it out. Still yellow. I also thought I noticed smoke emanating from
the vents and could smell a "petroleum" type odor. Eventually, I shined the
flashlight on the vent louvers and saw that there was a coating of soot on
them. So I decided to shut the thing down. After scratching my head for a
bit, I decided to fire it up again. This time the flame was blue , clean,
and gave off no smoke, soot, or fumes. It worked like a charm for the rest
of the weekend.
So waddaya think caused THAT? That stuff that is supposed to collect in the
low spots of the propane system? The regulator? Raccoons camping out in
the water heater? Anyone had something like this happen?
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:06:54 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
> Folks:
>
> First of all thanks for the input regarding wood treatment. I'm applying
> Howard's wood restorer products and they work great. Secondly, my
> Overlander has two small rocker switches, one is next to the front curb
> side window and operates the outside light. The second switch is just
> above the door and doesn't seem to do anything. I'm sure I'm missing
> something. Thought it was a master switch for some interior lights but
> that's not the case. If anyone has a late sixties trailer with the rocker
> switch above the entry door I'd appreciate knowing it's purpose in life.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David Pfeffer
Hi David:
On my '67, that switch operates the center overhead light fixture. The idea
being that you reach above the door and turn on a central inside light when
you are entering the trailer in the dark. So make sure the fixture is
turned on and flip that switch and it should light up.
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 12:01:12 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
switch works overhead light. It my not be working correctly and the light
remains on all the time, unless it is shut off at the fixture.
Dan
14148
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Pfeffer" <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 11:30 AM
Subject: [VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
> Folks:
>
> First of all thanks for the input regarding wood treatment. I'm applying
> Howard's wood restorer products and they work great. Secondly, my
> Overlander has two small rocker switches, one is next to the front curb
> side window and operates the outside light. The second switch is just
> above the door and doesn't seem to do anything. I'm sure I'm missing
> something. Thought it was a master switch for some interior lights but
> that's not the case. If anyone has a late sixties trailer with the rocker
> switch above the entry door I'd appreciate knowing it's purpose in life.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David Pfeffer
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:56:16 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
Dave,
I too have those two rocker switches. The lower one, closest to the
door operates the overhead interior light. The other one, the outside
porch? light.
Glyn
> From: David Pfeffer <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:30:37 -0800
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] '68 Overlander Rocker Switch
>
> Folks:
>
> First of all thanks for the input regarding wood treatment. I'm applying
> Howard's wood restorer products and they work great. Secondly, my
> Overlander has two small rocker switches, one is next to the front curb
> side window and operates the outside light. The second switch is just
> above the door and doesn't seem to do anything. I'm sure I'm missing
> something. Thought it was a master switch for some interior lights but
> that's not the case. If anyone has a late sixties trailer with the rocker
> switch above the entry door I'd appreciate knowing it's purpose in life.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David Pfeffer
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:04:06 -0800
From: "Ross, Wyn" <WRoss@xxxxxxxxxx.co.washoe.nv.us>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: jacking trailer
Hello all,
Just had the bearings on my 65 GT packed at a shop in Reno. This place had
two other vintage Airstreams in the lot so I figured they knew what they
were doing. After reading Daisy's posting I gave them a call to see where
they placed the jack on my little jewel. Yup, under the axle. So, what sort
of potential damage are we talking about? Oh yeah, they also broke one of
the red marker lights on top. Thought I was going to have a heck of a time
replacing it but (thanks to a link in RJ's 3/11 posting) I found the exact
Grote lens at Airstream Dreams for only $5.95.
Thanks in advance,
Wyn
- -----Original Message-----
From: Daisy Welch [mailto:jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 6:06 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: jacking trailer
There is a special place for the jack to go. NOT on the axle, but under
neath. I think it is about a 3" square, and maybe marked with a J ? At
any rate they are located under the main support beams, in the case of
my '73, behind the rear wheel.
If you put it anywhere else, you may damage expensive things
Daisy
David Turner wrote:
> Question:
>
> What is the best position to place the jack when changing a tire on a
single
> axle Airstream?
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
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http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 13:07:20 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Water Heater Mystery
Hi Gary,
Just a guess, but spider webs and mud dabbers make a mess inside the
apparatus of anything they can get into. A web blockage would cut the air
and cause an orange flame, as wood mud. You'd think it couldn't happen, but
I found the vermin deep inside my Safari furnace! :( The burn back might
have taken out the web?
Regards, '69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:59:06 -0800
From: Gordon Donaldson <grdonald@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Unit History
We have purchased a 1969 (?) 31' Airstream. The number on it is
22604. We have it from a source that it was owned in the late 80's by
a
Melvin LIEVENSE
409 Parchmount Ave
Parchment, Mi 49004
Would anyone know history of this unit or how to get further info
Thanks
Muzzy
Yuma, Az
- --
Gordon Donaldson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 14:22:37 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Scott re:another wood finish question
Wax works great.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] another wood finish question
> What can I do short of putting a finish on the wood that would both
> moisturize it and protect it from getting water spots?
> Scott
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 14:28:36 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Possible Wheel/Hub balance alternatives
One of the only products I know of for use in tires that will not hold water
*and* heat build-up is Nitrogen gas. Nitrogen is an inert gas, it won't
burn, hold heat, moisture, etc. But where you going to fill up your tires?
;)) .... Oh, I know! Any airport enroute! ;)) Make that any airport with
a maintenance facility.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "John Schubert" <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Possible Wheel/Hub balance alternatives
> I have found the following links for wheel/hub balancing.
> www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/900T-1/900t-1.htm
> http://Centramatic.com/index.html
> Powder I think is ok except if there is moisture/water in the tire
> then it will clump and cause an imbalance. I used to think Andy was
> off base with the subject considering the factory and dealers dont do
> it and several dont even know what it means, but after talking with
> several tractor trailer mechanics it is a factor and should be done
> plus it is mentioned in my service manual anytime the wheel is
> removed.
> John
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 13:14:54 -0700
From: "Scott Fling" <sfling@sg-realty.com>
Subject: [VAL] Hello everyone!
I just joined the list. My name is Scott Fling and I am currently searching
for a tandem axle Airstream to restore.
I became interested in them when I was a kid and decided that since I now
have so much
experience polishing aluminum (I also have a Luscombe airplane) that I would
start searching
for one right now. If anyone could help me locate a trailer I would
appreciate it. The reason for
the tandem is that I have three young daughters and I will need a unit of
some size to be able to
squeeze us all in. Thanks.
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:28:38 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hello everyone!
Hi Scott,
Where do you reside?
Tom
WBCCI 5303
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Fling" <sfling@sg-realty.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 3:14 PM
Subject: [VAL] Hello everyone!
> I just joined the list. My name is Scott Fling and I am currently
searching
> for a tandem axle Airstream to restore.
> I became interested in them when I was a kid and decided that since I now
> have so much
> experience polishing aluminum (I also have a Luscombe airplane) that I
would
> start searching
> for one right now. If anyone could help me locate a trailer I would
> appreciate it. The reason for
> the tandem is that I have three young daughters and I will need a unit of
> some size to be able to
> squeeze us all in. Thanks.
>
> Scott
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 13:55:02 -0700
From: "Scott Fling" <sfling@sg-realty.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Hello everyone!
I am in Denver Tom.
Scott
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 1:29 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hello everyone!
Hi Scott,
Where do you reside?
Tom
WBCCI 5303
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 13:20:05 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hello everyone!
> I just joined the list. My name is Scott Fling and I am currently
searching
> for a tandem axle Airstream to restore.
> I became interested in them when I was a kid and decided that since I now
> have so much
> experience polishing aluminum (I also have a Luscombe airplane) that I
would
> start searching
> for one right now. If anyone could help me locate a trailer I would
> appreciate it. The reason for
> the tandem is that I have three young daughters and I will need a unit of
> some size to be able to
> squeeze us all in. Thanks.
>
> Scott
Hey Scott:
Welcome to the group. If you are looking for a unit you might as well start
at the VAC website classifieds. I just looked and as of today they offer 97
units of different eras, years, and styles for your perusal. You can find
the info at:
http://www.airstream.net/classifieds/index.php
Happy hunting,
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:18:35 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Where do you see traces of leaks coming "in" from? The rivet tail holes?
Dripping down from all or most of the seams?
If you seal your trailer on the outside, really seal it, it will not leak on
the inside. If you can locate loose or ill fitting rivets (Airstream used
SOLID rivets, not the same as their "repair" rivets which are a blind rivet)
you really need to remove and replace those rivets AND re-install all of
them with a sealer like Vulkem. The Vulkem should be shot into the rivet
hole BEFORE the rivet so that it forms a tight seal when it is either bucked
(solid rivet) or pulled (blind rivet) with the proper tools.
I would bet you dollar to donuts that the sealer you see coming off is
excess sealer from the day it was manufactured. This sealer "coming off"
from the trailer seams most likely is due to it being squeezed out from
between the sheets of aluminum skin. This is NOT unusual - rather is would
be expected but certainly not to excess UNLESS the technicians were sloppy
and applied way too much sealant when it was built.
I'm sure Airstream applied lots of sealer (excess width, not excess
material) to all the trailer seams when it was constructed. Sealer coming
off skin on the inside which is merely laying on the skin is not a problem -
at all - unsightly maybe but I'm sure there are a lot of unsightly things
behind and underneath all constructed things made by man.
Unless you have leaks from rivet tails (looking from the inside outward on
the interior of the exterior skin) you really do not have a problem. I'd
love to see pictures of what you are referring to so I can try and help both
of us understand this issue better.
IF you are using a wire brush in your sealant removal this is not in your
trailer's best interest - especially IF you have an older Airsteam with CLAD
aluminum skin. The aluminum used back then had a CLAD covering of 100%
aluminum on the outside of the alloy sheetmetal. What is CLAD aluminum for?
To prevent corrosion - *because* it forms an oxide coating on that coating
of 100% aluminum - it sacrifices itself to protect the rest of the aluminum
sheet. All corrosion is not bad - especially when it's an oxide sacrificial
coating as the CLAD coating is.
Using a metal brush removes the clad coating and you are setting yourself up
for future corrosion that you won't be able to see unless you are doing an
annual inspection by tearing out the inside skin on a regular basis. You
really want to use a nylon brush or something similar - certainly not metal.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Deborah Bede" <stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Hi Kevin:
>
> I'm thinking about the same thing. With the interior skin removed I can
see
> all the places where water has come into the trailer, and it's just about
> everywhere! The black sealant on the inside of the seams is coming off as
> yours is, and just to do as much as I can to prevent future leaks I'm
> planning to seal the inside of the seams. I was thinking about just
running
> a bead of Vulkem along each one, seems like it would be pretty quick to
me.
>
> I've also been trying to reduce the areas of corrosion on the inside of
the
> outer shell (my trailer had lots of water!) and have been using "Aluminum
> Jelly" and a wire brush. It's going to take a few passes I think.
>
> Deborah
> 1955 Bubble
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:32:37 -0600
From: "William Durkee" <bdkli@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Possible Wheel/Hub balance alternatives
From: "John Schubert" <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Possible Wheel/Hub balance alternatives
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:36:08 -00
I have found the following links for wheel/hub balancing.
www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/900T-1/900t-1.htm
http://Centramatic.com/index.html...
My Dad is using the the self balancing Centramatic balancers on his Holdiay
Rambler motor home. Said it took out all of the shake in the front end. I
think it would be a good idea for our airstream trailers but, it is a little
more costly.
Bill Durkee
69 Sovereign
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:28:11 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Watching my video "Building Dreams is Our Business" about the manufacture of
Airstreams, I see that there is in fact a sealer sprayed on every seam and
rivet line _inside_ the outer skin...before the inner skin is secured.
That's the stuff the original poster was referring to. It's not exterior
sealer that was forced through...it was applied to the interior.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:08:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Rapa <steverapa@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sewer Connector for 1963 Tradewind
I went to my local Airstream Dealer, and they told me
it was not a Thetford. Prior to '64 they were using an
aluminum elbow with pins on the inside to interlock
with the slots on the bottom of the dump valve. I saw
one on ebay the other day, but I was outbid. If anyone
has one that they would be willing to part with, I
sure could use one.
Thanks
Steve
1963 Tradewind
WBCCI #1697
- --- gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> You can order a Thetford dump valve from Southwest
> RV for about $35.
>
> Bobby
> ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom:
> BGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQTIPWIGYOK
> To:
>
VAList@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:VAList@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 1:38 PM
> Subject: [VAL] Sewer Connector for 1963 Tradewind
>
>
> Hi everyone,
> I just missed out on a sewer connector for dumping
> the
> black tank on a 1963 Tradewind that was on ebay.
> Does
> anyone have an extra that they would be willing to
> part with?
> Thanks
> Steve
> 1963 Tradewind
> WBCCI # 1697
>
>
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
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> unnecessary original text
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> please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 18:45:42 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Hi Tom,
Don't know for sure if you know what you're talking about. The replacement
rivets I use (I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the name) have a
rubber gasket and there's no need for vulkem or any other seal. Of course,
you can do what you want, but . . .
You buy the kind of rivet that is needed for the purpose. Of course, you
can't do the buck rivet thing that Airstream did unless you remove the
inner skin. However, the pull rivets I use work just fine and seal against
moisture. If the hole is worn, just use a larger rivet! :)
Regards, '69 Safari,
Joy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 19:03:10 -0800
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hello everyone!
Scott:
I just joined the list. My name is Scott Fling and I am currently searching
for a tandem axle Airstream to restore.
Hi Scott,
Is tandem the kind with two axels and four wheels? If so we have and
Airstream for sale
in Felton Ca.
Michelle
"We cannot be any stronger in our foreign policy-for all the bombs and guns
we may heap up in our arsenals-than we are in the spirit which rules inside
the country. Foreign policy, like a river, cannot rise above its source." -
Adlai Stevenson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 19:16:51 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Joy; re: Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
:)
Tom
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Hi Tom,
> Don't know for sure if you know what you're talking about.
> Joy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 19:24:05 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Fine. But, the only sealant that is needed is "between" the laminated
sheets of aluminum - where they overlap which is where the rivets are
placed. Overlapped can also be applied to where stringers and ribs are
attached to the outer skin.
If there is sprayed on sealant that isn't "sealing" metal at joints and it's
falling down or coming off - no big deal. The older Airstream trailers were
built with *clad* aluminum - a coating of 100% pure aluminum that would
naturally form an oxide coating that will *protect* the underlying aluminum
alloy metal.
No reason to panic if sprayed on sealant, sprayed on bare metal, comes off.
I have yet to see any Airstream trailers, no matter how bad and mistreated,
with rotted aluminum caused by corrosion from the inside out. Have you?
Tom
WBCCI 5303
I see that there is in fact a sealer sprayed on every seam and
> rivet line _inside_ the outer skin...before the inner skin is secured.
> That's the stuff the original poster was referring to. It's not exterior
> sealer that was forced through...it was applied to the interior.
> Roger
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 19:55:54 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Vacations Rallies
Pooey, you guys on the west coast have all the fun.
Daisy (snowing again..)
Craig Dorsey "trail-r-boy" wrote:
> Howdy fellow trailerites
> Craig here from Vintage Vacations.
> I am just wanted to send out a reminder about all of the wonderful rallies
> that we have coming up in the next few months. So far this year we are
> holding 3 rallies and events that are going to all be incredible places to
> be.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:06:58 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Joy, I've heard that the attached gasket should be discarded and not uses
because it's said that they dry out and then leak. I've always been told to
use the bare rivet with a dab of Vulkem on the stem. I think it is Charlie's
opinion I'm repeating.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hoo, boy! RE: 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
> Hi Tom,
>
> Don't know for sure if you know what you're talking about. The
replacement
> rivets I use (I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the name) have
a
> rubber gasket and there's no need for vulkem or any other seal. Of
course,
> you can do what you want, but . . .
>
> You buy the kind of rivet that is needed for the purpose. Of course, you
> can't do the buck rivet thing that Airstream did unless you remove the
> inner skin. However, the pull rivets I use work just fine and seal
against
> moisture. If the hole is worn, just use a larger rivet! :)
>
> Regards, '69
Safari,
> Joy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:08:53 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] another wood finish question
Scott, you need a real oil finish, not furniture polish. I don't know
who came up with the idea that wood needs to be fed, but it's hooey.
To protect the wood and make it easier to clean, you need some kind of
finish on it. I'm partial to an oil finish. It doesn't mind getting wet
and is easier to redo than a varnish , shellac or poly urethane finish,
which just sits on the top of the wood. An oiled finish penetrates the
wood and the top surface of it dries to a reasonably hard, but not very
shiny finish. I'm not a big fan of high gloss except on a car finish,
but that's personal.
Oak is very porous and has an aggressive grain. If you want a high
finish on it, you will have to use a lot of coats or a filler.
My Kitchen counters are all oak and were finished with tung oil. As Jim
Smith will probably point out, it is a bit smelly at first, but makes an
indestructible and flexible finish.
Go hunt up the Watco, it's what was put on there originally and will be
the easiest and best to fix it. You will need a fair amount of elbow
grease, but you will be pleased with how good it looks and authentic too !
Daisy
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> I have a 1960 with the oak interior. It has never had a stain or a finish on
> the wood. The papers that came with it instructed to use an oil on it...if
> memory serves me it was Watco. Not finding Watco, over the last few years I
> have used Lemon oil, but the wood has deepened in color and looks very nice
> while the oil is still fresh, but after a few days the look fades away and
> the wood is still very dry. It also gets water spots in it whenever a stray
> drop hits it.
>
> What can I do short of putting a finish on the wood that would both
> moisturize it and protect it from getting water spots?
>
> Scott
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:12:12 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: jacking trailer
yikes, get your baby out of there !
Daisy
Ross, Wyn wrote:
> Hello all,
> Just had the bearings on my 65 GT packed at a shop in Reno. This place had
> two other vintage Airstreams in the lot so I figured they knew what they
> were doing. After reading Daisy's posting I gave them a call to see where
> they placed the jack on my little jewel. Yup, under the axle. So, what sort
> of potential damage are we talking about? Oh yeah, they also broke one of
> the red marker lights on top. Thought I was going to have a heck of a time
> replacing it but (thanks to a link in RJ's 3/11 posting) I found the exact
> Grote lens at Airstream Dreams for only $5.95.
> Thanks in advance,
> Wyn
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daisy Welch [mailto:jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 6:06 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: jacking trailer
>
>
> There is a special place for the jack to go. NOT on the axle, but under
> neath. I think it is about a 3" square, and maybe marked with a J ? At
> any rate they are located under the main support beams, in the case of
> my '73, behind the rear wheel.
>
> If you put it anywhere else, you may damage expensive things
>
> Daisy
>
> David Turner wrote:
>
>
>> Question:
>>
>>What is the best position to place the jack when changing a tire on a
>
> single
>
>>axle Airstream?
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:43:47 -0500
From: "Scott Fling" <sfling@sg-realty.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Hello everyone!
That is correct Michelle 2 axles and four wheels is what we need, but also
four beds or room to install four beds. Call me. 303-437-6992 or email me
off list with your #.
Scott
michelle writes:
>>
> Hi Scott,
> Is tandem the kind with two axels and four wheels? If so we have and
> Airstream for sale
> in Felton Ca.
> Michelle
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 21:08:45 -0500
From: <lindner.1@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] New to the group!
3/5/2004 11:51:03 AM, Richard Atherley <safehome4u@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
>
>June in Florida. If anyone has ANY advice on this model, please feel free to
>post or email me as per below.
>
My advice is to take it to Florida in the _winter_, not June!
-- Lew #4239
'72 Safari
Still stuck in Brenham
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 21:37:25 -0500
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] another wood finish question
Hi Scott,
I used Formby's refinisher and Tung Oil on my 68. The refinisher strips
the coating without pulling the stain and the Tung oil helps keep water
spots away. I used gloss. I have not had the results on the 59 as I did
on the 68. I'm getting ready to go over all the wood with steel wool and
re-Tung oil to see if I can smooth out the surfaces.
Ed
WBCCI/Vac 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler (457 hours and counting)
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Scott Scheuermann
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 11:46 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] another wood finish question
I have a 1960 with the oak interior. It has never had a stain or a
finish on the wood. The papers that came with it instructed to use an
oil on it...if memory serves me it was Watco. Not finding Watco, over
the last few years I have used Lemon oil, but the wood has deepened in
color and looks very nice while the oil is still fresh, but after a few
days the look fades away and the wood is still very dry. It also gets
water spots in it whenever a stray drop hits it.
What can I do short of putting a finish on the wood that would both
moisturize it and protect it from getting water spots?
Scott
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 22:35:46 -0800
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Hello everyone!
Hi Scott,
Our 1971 25' Landyacht has only two beds.
I don't know how to get your address so I just replied to the list.
best,
Michelle
That is correct Michelle 2 axles and four wheels is what we need, but also
four beds or room to install four beds. Call me. 303-437-6992 or email me
off list with your #.
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 22:06:16 -0600
From: "Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.isunet.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Jacking
Jacking on the spring won't let the axle and hubs drop to clear wide tires better.
Its possible to bend the spring jacking directly on the spring.
Jacking on the tube part of the Henschen torsion axle is not good for the axle. In
the extreme it could cause the axle to bind up and not move.
There should be a place under the frame rear of the axle marked with a plate bearing
the legend "JACK". That is where to jack. Use a flat board between any jack top and
that pad, about the size of that pad (4 or 5" square) to spread the push away from
the small top of the hydraulic bottle jack. I carry a bottle jack selected to fit
with a board below (2x6 x18" or so) to keep the bottle jack from sinking into the
dirt and the smaller piece of 2x6 to cushion the top of the jack. Be sure that the
jack gets tall enough to lift the wheel off the ground, yet when collapsed is short
enough to fit between the boards when the tire is really flat.
Jacking on the frame pad will let the axle and hub dangle as low as it will to give
clearance. Sometimes its necessary to choose a different tire than the first or second
try to find a tire with the nominal size that fits in the opening. Modern radial tires
grow far less when inflated than the old bias ply tires making the modern radial tire
more likely to fit the undersized Airstream wheel well.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #190
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