The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #189
VAL Digest Tuesday, March 16 2004 Volume 01 : Number 189
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #187 - RV insurance
Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
[VAL] Re: hub/drum/wheel balancing
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #188
[VAL] Re: Lansing
[VAL] Re: insurance
[VAL] Re: disc brakes
[VAL] RE: Watco question
Re: [VAL] Watco question
RE: [VAL] Watco question
[VAL] 1961 International series stain
Re: [VAL] 1961 International series stain
Re: [VAL] RE: Watco question
Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
[VAL] Sewer Connector for 1963 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Re: [VAL] Watco question
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #188
Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Re: [VAL] Re: disc brakes
Re: [VAL] Watco question
[VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
RE: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Re: [VAL] Clearcoat question
Re: [VAL] Clearcoat question
Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
[VAL] Curtain Track needed
[VAL] Clearcoat question
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 07:38:07 EST
From: JAuman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #187 - RV insurance
When you endorse your trailer on your auto policy you should look closely at
the policy as some polies do not cover your awnings or TV antenna. They must
be endorsed to the policy and an additional premium paid.
jauman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 05:08:00 -0800
From: Graeme Thickins <graeme@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Amanda and Jim -- many thanks for both your responses,
recommending the Napier Environmental Products stripper.
Exactly what I was looking for -- personal experience... :-)
Will the five-gallon container be the right quantity for my
22-footer? It has the original factory clearcoat, which
is worn off in some places -- quite an eyesore. Or how
many of the 1-gallon containers should I buy?
I can't wait to get started, as soon as the temps get
up into the 60s, which will probably be late April or early
May here. The snow is receding -- only a few feet high
now <ha, ha>.
kind regards,
Graeme Thickins
Minneapolis
'67 Safari "International"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 08:45:10 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: hub/drum/wheel balancing
I was at our local big truck tire dealer (Goodyear) last week looking for
replacement tires for the Airstream. While he has them in stock, he does not
have the capability to balance them while on the trailer.
Scott
- ----------
> I'd think a shop that deals in heavy trucks would have the capability of
spin balancing the tires becuase truck rims won't fit on a standard balance
machine.
>
> Gerald J.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 08:48:47 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #188
Patti,
Keep the original fridge as long as you can. Even now it will probably
outlive anything new you could purchase.
Scott
- --------------
> While they were working on Pearl at the plant they got the original
> fridge up and running, even making ice. Question--- I'm thinking about
> replacing the fridge anyway out of fear that it will stop working
> during the International or when I'm on the road. Should I risk it and
> keep the original? It's so cool. Anyone still using an oldie that just
> won't quit? (what's another $1000 when I've already broke the bank)
> Another reason for replacement now is the original only works on
> propane so there is no 110 plug behind it. The plant has replaced ALL
> the original wiring and they know how to add the plug. I can hardly
> wait to pick her up next weekend!!
>
> Patti
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 09:03:33 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Lansing
Here's the scoop on the rendevious for International. It should also be in
the next issue of the VA. - Scott
- -----------
LANSING VINTAGE PARADE AND PARKING INFORMATION
Vintage members who wish to park together at the Vintage site at the
International Rally at Lansing will rendezvous at the Mega Mall (a former
outlet mall)
located at the intersection of exit 87 off I-69 and Business 27. Go south on
Business 27 and turn east or left into the mall. Arrangements have been made
for us to dry camp the night of Friday, June 25th at the Mega Mall so that
we
can prepare for our parade into the Vintage Rally site on Saturday, June
26th.
There may be a nominal parking fee for this night. If so, Bob Herman will
collect this fee at the mall. Vintage members who cannot join us on the 25th
but
who wish to parade in and be located in the Vintage section at International
must be at the Mega Mall by l2:00 noon on Saturday, June 26th. Our parade is
scheduled to enter the rally site at 2:00 p.m. IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
REGARDING
RALLY SITE PARKING. The order in which you are parked at the pre-rally site
will establish the order of the parade lineup and the order of the parking
for
the International site. Therefore, if you wish to park with a particular
member,
you must arrive at the Mega Mall with that member, or notify Bob Herman on
your arrival who you are expecting so that a vacant space can be left in the
parade lineup for that member. Once the parade lineup is established at the
Mega
Mall, this will be the order for the parking at the International Site. In
order to assure adequate parking at the Mega Mall and at the Lansing site, I
need
to know whether you plan to arrive on Friday, June the 25th or by l2:00 noon
on Saturday, June 26th. You may email me at: bobbonherm8556
@xxxxxxxxxx.com , or send a note or card to me at 2092 Culbreath Rd, C12,
Brooksville, Fl. 34602. We will have about a six hour Habitat for Humanity
work date on
Sunday, June 27th. Ladies are welcome. We will have a sign-up for this
Habitat Day at the mall and also after we enter the rally site. Bob Herman,
1st VP
- --------
> Any information regarding the pre-International meeting spot for the
> VAC? (the night before the VAC parade into the rally)
>
> Patti
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 09:56:33 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: insurance
In a message dated 3/14/2004 11:01:48 PM Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
> Liability insurance-- I was told that the tow vehicle's liability
insurance covered any accident the trailer might get into as long as the
trailer was attached to the tow vehicle. If the trailer came
disconnected there would be no liability insurance. Seems like another
loophole in the insurance industry to make more money.
> Dan
America...what a country!!!
I have been getting extra ins. on my units for about a year.
At a stated worth of 6k I pay about 72.00 for six month full coverage.
AlanT
Phx Az
78Arg30
65 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 10:04:35 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: disc brakes
In a message dated 3/14/2004 11:01:48 PM Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
Does anybody have experience or an opinion on installing disc brakes on an
Airstream? We have a 1969 Caravel, 18 ft. single axle.
Rob and Carole
San Diego
I had em on my 79 Ambassador
They were great when they worked.
It was an exact car type system with a vacuum servo set on the tongue behind
the tanks.
You plug a hose into your tow vehicles engine vacuum.
Our BUD Andy makes the disc pads for them and repairs the units.
Most people remove them and install elec. ones!
He might have experience with the reverse!
AlanT
Phx AZ
78 Arg30
65 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 07:30:02 -0800
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] RE: Watco question
How late '50's? Until 1959 the standard cabinetry was lacquer finished
birch (and various other blond hardwoods). If you have a different
species of wood without the 1950's clear lacquer finish, the Watco
finish comes in different "tints" that match the species, no stain
needed. Just apply on bare wood over the existing previously "Watco'd"
finish to rejuvenate.
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:15:54 -0700
> From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAL] Watco question
>
> Got a simple question, I think - can you use stain first then
> cover with
> Watco, or does Watco need to be used on bare wood.
>
> Does anyone know what color/colors Airstream used for stain
> in the late 50's
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ken J.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 08:42:31 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Watco question
hello ken
watco danish oil can be applied over bare wood or stained wood. watco's
limited selection of colors sometimes requires you to stain your wood first
to achieve your desired color. if you stain first, a clear or natural watco
oil finish would be best after the stain. it will penetrate slower over
stain than over bare wood.
good luck
harry
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 8:15 PM
Subject: [VAL] Watco question
> Got a simple question, I think - can you use stain first then cover with
> Watco, or does Watco need to be used on bare wood.
>
> Does anyone know what color/colors Airstream used for stain in the late
50's
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ken J.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 08:40:27 -0700
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Watco question
Ken,
I've used Watco over stain on furniture with good results. In the
Airstream I use Minwax Wipe-on Poly over stain. It produces a Watco
looking finish without the odor, and I believe more durable.
Best Regards,
Jim
jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> On Behalf Of Kenneth E. Johansen
> Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 8:16 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Watco question
>
> Got a simple question, I think - can you use stain first then cover
with
> Watco, or does Watco need to be used on bare wood.
>
> Does anyone know what color/colors Airstream used for stain in the
late
> 50's
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ken J.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 08:47:25 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 1961 International series stain
Ken:
This is not responsive to your question on late 1950's
stains, but a 1961 price list (dated November 1960) mentions
that International trim series trailers had black walnut
stained oak cabinets. I haven't seen any earlier Price List
description of stains, such as for late 1950 trailers.
Fred Coldwell
Denver, CO.
"Kenneth E. Johansen" wrote:
>
> Got a simple question, I think - can you use stain first then cover with
> Watco, or does Watco need to be used on bare wood.
>
> Does anyone know what color/colors Airstream used for stain in the late 50's
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ken J.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 10:59:13 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1961 International series stain
Fred,
Our 1969 International Ambassador has walnut stained interior also. I've
used both polyurethane and Danish oil to see which I liked better. If you
don't like the plastic 'shine' of poly go ahead and try your hand at Danish
oil which gives a low luster sheen. Personally I liked the Danish oil look
better than the poly. But, you could always go with the clear lacquer
finish which is also very nice. Lacquer is not as tough BUT to touch up
lacquer all you have to do is reapply to a small area as lacquer 'melts'
into the rest of the finish. I say 'melts' for lack of a better word.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 1961 International series stain
> Ken:
>
> This is not responsive to your question on late 1950's
> stains, but a 1961 price list (dated November 1960) mentions
> that International trim series trailers had black walnut
> stained oak cabinets. I haven't seen any earlier Price List
> description of stains, such as for late 1950 trailers.
>
> Fred Coldwell
> Denver, CO.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 09:24:54 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: Watco question
1958 to be exact - the finish that is there now is a greenish/tan
color. Since the interior is trash, I'm going to completely rebuild it -
wanted to stain it similar to the color I had in my Traveler - I'm using
birch - the color was a brownish/reddish which suggests a mahogony color -
but when I look at the mahogany stains - they look too red to me....
Ken
At 07:30 AM 03/15/04 -0800, you wrote:
>How late '50's? Until 1959 the standard cabinetry was lacquer finished
>birch (and various other blond hardwoods). If you have a different
>species of wood without the 1950's clear lacquer finish, the Watco
>finish comes in different "tints" that match the species, no stain
>needed. Just apply on bare wood over the existing previously "Watco'd"
>finish to rejuvenate.
>
>Best of luck,
>RJ
>VintageAirstream.com
>
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:15:54 -0700
> > From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> > Subject: [VAL] Watco question
> >
> > Got a simple question, I think - can you use stain first then
> > cover with
> > Watco, or does Watco need to be used on bare wood.
> >
> > Does anyone know what color/colors Airstream used for stain
> > in the late 50's
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Ken J.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 11:12:15 -0600
From: "William Durkee" <bdkli@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
From: Graeme Thickins <graeme@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 05:08:00 -0800
Amanda and Jim -- many thanks for both your responses,
recommending the Napier Environmental Products stripper.
Exactly what I was looking for -- personal experience... :-)
I was wondering with this Environmentally safe product. Do the plastic
lenses need to be removed (ie taillights and marker lights) before using the
product?
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 12:21:35 -0600
From: Cheyanne & Randy <bayoubuddies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
I am confused. Isn't clearcoating the stuff that makes an airstream
shiny? Why would you try to remove it? If the clearcoat is damaged,
isn't that hat causes the airstream to look like it has leprosy?
Cheyanne
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 10:38:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Rapa <steverapa@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Sewer Connector for 1963 Tradewind
Hi everyone,
I just missed out on a sewer connector for dumping the
black tank on a 1963 Tradewind that was on ebay. Does
anyone have an extra that they would be willing to
part with?
Thanks
Steve
1963 Tradewind
WBCCI # 1697
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 13:49:04 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Nope. Clear coat is transparent when applied but gets cloudy over time and
begins to peel off. The aluminum skin is sort of shiny but it's the
polishing of the aluminum that makes it really shiny by removing the
oxidation on the surface of the aluminum skin.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Cheyanne & Randy" <bayoubuddies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
> I am confused. Isn't clearcoating the stuff that makes an airstream
> shiny? Why would you try to remove it? If the clearcoat is damaged,
> isn't that hat causes the airstream to look like it has leprosy?
>
> Cheyanne
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 14:24:13 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Graeme, I bought the 5 gal size for my 24' Tradewind expecting that I would
have some extra at the same price give or take as 4 of the 1 gal buckets.
May want to strip other things sometime.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Graeme Thickins" <graeme@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
> Amanda and Jim -- many thanks for both your responses,
> recommending the Napier Environmental Products stripper.
> Exactly what I was looking for -- personal experience... :-)
>
> Will the five-gallon container be the right quantity for my
> 22-footer? It has the original factory clearcoat, which
> is worn off in some places -- quite an eyesore. Or how
> many of the 1-gallon containers should I buy?
>
> I can't wait to get started, as soon as the temps get
> up into the 60s, which will probably be late April or early
> May here. The snow is receding -- only a few feet high
> now <ha, ha>.
>
> kind regards,
> Graeme Thickins
> Minneapolis
> '67 Safari "International"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 15:20:10 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Watco question
I used to buy Watco with the color already in it.
Daisy
Kenneth E. Johansen wrote:
> Got a simple question, I think - can you use stain first then cover with
> Watco, or does Watco need to be used on bare wood.
>
> Does anyone know what color/colors Airstream used for stain in the late 50's
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ken J.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 13:29:09 -0700
From: David Pfeffer <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #188
Yep, that's the trailer I remember seeing, I like it. Would look good
with my '64 GTO. ;-) The spec page you show is exactly the page missing
from my owners manual. I printed it.
I'll be in touch looking for your input.
Regards,
David Pfeffer
Global Service Planner - IGS (xSeries High Performance)
Tie Line: 775-5237
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com (VAL Digest)
Sent by: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
03/14/2004 10:00 PM
Please respond to
valist
To
valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com
cc
Subject
VAL Digest V1 #188
VAL Digest Monday, March 15 2004 Volume 01 : Number
188
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Disc brakes
RE: [VAL] Black water tank
Re: [VAL] hub/drum/wheel balancing
[VAL] Skyliner antenna information
Re: [VAL] Disc brakes
Re: [VAL] Disc brakes
[VAL] Re: Original Fridge
Re: [VAL] Re: Original Fridge
Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
RE: [VAL] Re: Original Fridge
[VAL] Re: Lansing
[VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
[VAL] Re: 65 Tradewind
Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] Bookbinding my owners manual
[VAL] Interesting "Airstream" on Ebay
[VAL] Watco question
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #187 - RV insurance
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #187 - Monocoque construction
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:09:49 -0800 (PST)
From: robert brandt <rdbrandt_1930@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Disc brakes
Does anybody have experience or an opinion on installing disc brakes on an
Airstream? We have a 1969 Caravel, 18 ft. single axle.
Rob and Carole
San Diego
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:31:39 -0500
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Black water tank
Hello Tom,
Thanks for the response. This is an above floor mounting and I guess I
will flip it over, cut a hole for the bottom outlet and secure to the
floor by screwing through that lip. Another question, do I need to
support the weight of the stool off the tank? By this I mean is when I
build the box that will cover the tank should the top of that box
support the weight of the user or will the tank do that? The tank
doesn't seem strong enough, I'm not the smallest guy around!
Also thanks to this group for the feedback on venting, I'm going to vent
the system through the one opening.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler (half plumbed and going out to finish the fresh water
connections. Nothing betting than working with fire, manly tools and
Airstreams, what a great hobby!)
- - -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 10:03 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Black water tank
Ed,
If the picture I have in mind of your tank is correct, that lip around
the edge of the tank is for mounting. If top of floor mounting - the
lip would go downwards, onto the floor, with the tank itself above the
lip. If underfloor mounting - the lip would go upwards, up TO the
bottom of the floor, the tank itself would then hang below the floor.
If mounting underneath the floor the lip would be secured TO the bottom
of the floor, the tank itself would also have to have some support in
the form of hanging straps, brackets, whatever, just as long as it did
NOT depend on the lip mounting hardware to hold it in place all by
itself.
Tom
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: "Vintage List" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 5:45 PM
Subject: [VAL] Black water tank
> Hello All,
> I have just purchased an 8 gallon black water tank and trying to
> figure out how to install it. It has a bottom drain and is designed to
> site on the floor There is a side that has a flat lip outside of the
> walls of the tank, does this go to the floor or face up towards the
> stool? The lip side is wider than the other side. I would also assume
> that this lip is designed to secure to either the floor or to the top
> cover. Also any hints on the best way to box it in would be
> appreciated. Thanks Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign
> 59 Traveler
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
> text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- - -----------------------------------------------------------------
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- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:40:55 -0600
From: "Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.isunet.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] hub/drum/wheel balancing
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/MachineryTalk/posts/3250.html
This discussion recommends a heavy powder product to go in the tires to do
an automatic dynamic balance. I've never tried the product.
I'd think a shop that deals in heavy trucks would have the capability of
spin balancing the tires becuase truck rims won't fit on a standard
balance machine.
Gerald J.
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 17:55:43 -00
From: "John Schubert" <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Skyliner antenna information
Information on Skyliner antennas can be found at the following link
thanks to the Avion Guy.
www.silveravion.nieus.com/Maintenance/Manuals/TV%20Antenna/index1.htm
John
Midwest Flying Service
Aircraft Maintenance
Authorized CorrosionX Treatment Center
Mobile Service
913-682-7230
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 13:25:23 -0500
From: "Myrna Warren" <uncleneal@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Disc brakes
You have to have a rather expensive actuator to make them work. They are
better brakes than the electric drums, but more expensive. Some of the
Airstreams came with hydraulic disks in the past. Probably not really
needed with a light trailer.
Neal
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "robert brandt" <rdbrandt_1930@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 1:09 AM
Subject: [VAL] Disc brakes
> Does anybody have experience or an opinion on installing disc brakes on
an
Airstream? We have a 1969 Caravel, 18 ft. single axle.
>
> Rob and Carole
> San Diego
>
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 14:20:46 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Disc brakes
Has anyone you know ever replaced the drum brakes with disc brakes on
their
Airstream trailer before? I'd love to do this with our 1995 Classic. Does
anyone know what parts might cost for the actuators, pads, etc.? Any
ideas
out there?
What about anti-skid technology for our Airstream trailers - is it even
available yet?
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Myrna Warren" <uncleneal@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> You have to have a rather expensive actuator to make them work. They
are
> better brakes than the electric drums, but more expensive. Some of the
> Airstreams came with hydraulic disks in the past. Probably not really
> needed with a light trailer.
> Neal
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 16:34:09 -0500
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Original Fridge
Hi All,
While they were working on Pearl at the plant they got the original
fridge up and running, even making ice. Question--- I'm thinking about
replacing the fridge anyway out of fear that it will stop working
during the International or when I'm on the road. Should I risk it and
keep the original? It's so cool. Anyone still using an oldie that just
won't quit? (what's another $1000 when I've already broke the bank)
Another reason for replacement now is the original only works on
propane so there is no 110 plug behind it. The plant has replaced ALL
the original wiring and they know how to add the plug. I can hardly
wait to pick her up next weekend!!
Patti
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 16:33:43 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Original Fridge
Patti,
Will we get to see pictures? Please?
Why not have them add the 110vac plug IF it won't cost you another
fortune,
I would.
When the inside liner of our old Dometic refer cracked we could no longer
close the door properly much less securely. This was when we decided to
go
with a new Norcold 8cu.ft. refrig and it is still working - that was back
in
1988.
Tom
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 4:34 PM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Original Fridge
> Hi All,
>
>
> While they were working on Pearl at the plant they got the original
> fridge up and running, even making ice. Question--- I'm thinking about
> replacing the fridge anyway out of fear that it will stop working
> during the International or when I'm on the road. Should I risk it and
> keep the original? It's so cool. Anyone still using an oldie that just
> won't quit? (what's another $1000 when I've already broke the bank)
> Another reason for replacement now is the original only works on
> propane so there is no 110 plug behind it. The plant has replaced ALL
> the original wiring and they know how to add the plug. I can hardly
> wait to pick her up next weekend!!
>
> Patti
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 16:57:44 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Grame, Amanda's suggestion is the way to go. I used it and recommended it
to
her. It works like a charm and is fast and safe. It beats anything else
out
there hands down.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Graeme Thickins" <graeme@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
> To Andy (Inland RV Center) --
>
> You said "Airstream is no different. They also don't
> advertise the clear coat problem of years past."
> What's the problem you're referring to here?
>
> Also, does anyone out there have recommendations
> for the best stripper to use to remove clearcoat,
> and the proper procedure for doing it?
>
> many thanks,
> Graeme Thickins
> Minneapolis
> '67 Safari "International"
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 16:05:05 -0600
From: "Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.isunet.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: Original Fridge
When it fails, a sack or two of ice will hold the groceries for a couple
days at a time. But if it works now, it should work a while, so long as
you keep it level.
While they are working in that area adding a 110 volt outlet for the next
refrigerator is easy and inexpensive. You should do that now, and keep the
classic refrigerator so long as it works.
Gerald J.
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 17:51:21 -0500
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Lansing
Any information regarding the pre-International meeting spot for the
VAC? (the night before the VAC parade into the rally)
Patti
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 15:38:30 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
All,
I'm relisting this plea for help in locating some curtain track for
I'm having the dickens of a time locating the upper curtain track for
over the galley in my 1969 Caravel. It's the 3" wide extruded aluminum
type
that's 90 degrees on one side and 45 degrees on the other with the 1/4"
wide
track running down the center. The total length needed is 5" 6".
In addition, I'm looking for the gold anodized I-beam style lower
curtain track and attachments for under the front windows.
Does anyone have an idea as to where I can get these two pieces? I
have
a scanned isometric drawing I made of them for anyone wanting to see the
specific shapes. I could try attaching it to a return email or could fax
it
to you.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Glyn
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:28:39 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Do you have any pictures?
Tom
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 6:38 PM
Subject: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
> All,
>
> I'm relisting this plea for help in locating some curtain track for
>
> I'm having the dickens of a time locating the upper curtain track
for
> over the galley in my 1969 Caravel. It's the 3" wide extruded aluminum
type
> that's 90 degrees on one side and 45 degrees on the other with the 1/4"
wide
> track running down the center. The total length needed is 5" 6".
>
> In addition, I'm looking for the gold anodized I-beam style lower
> curtain track and attachments for under the front windows.
>
> Does anyone have an idea as to where I can get these two pieces? I
have
> a scanned isometric drawing I made of them for anyone wanting to see the
> specific shapes. I could try attaching it to a return email or could
fax
it
> to you.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help,
>
> Glyn
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 18:38:56 -0600
From: "Buddy" <buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Glyn wrote:
"Does anyone have an idea as to where I can get these two pieces? I have
a scanned isometric drawing I made of them for anyone wanting to see the
specific shapes. I could try attaching it to a return email or could fax
it
to you."
Glyn, I have some pieces of Curtain track from an old AS, can't remember
which year. Please email the drawing to me and I'll check what I have. If
it'll work you are welcome to it for shipping costs.
Buddy Atwood
buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 16:58:44 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Buddy,
I'll attach a scanned image to you in the event you can open it and
make
heads or tails of it. Failing that, I could fax it to you if you'd kindly
send me your number.
I need 5' 6" of track #3 and 6' 10" of track #4.
The dimensions are 3" wide for #3 and the I-beam is 5/8" high and
3/16"
wide at the top and bottom.
Thanks,
Glyn
> From: "Buddy" <buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 18:38:56 -0600
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
>
> Glyn wrote:
>
> "Does anyone have an idea as to where I can get these two pieces? I
have
> a scanned isometric drawing I made of them for anyone wanting to see the
> specific shapes. I could try attaching it to a return email or could
fax it
> to you."
>
> Glyn, I have some pieces of Curtain track from an old AS, can't
remember
> which year. Please email the drawing to me and I'll check what I have.
If
> it'll work you are welcome to it for shipping costs.
>
> Buddy Atwood
> buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type multipart/appledouble]
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 17:01:54 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Tom,
I rescanned the isometric drawings I made and have attached them to
this
email.
I need 6 feet of track #3 and 6' 10" of track #4.
They read 3" wide for #3 and 5/8" high and 3/16" wide for the I-beam
shown as #4.
again, let me know if you can read the scan. If not send me a fax
number if you have one and I'll send the original to you.
Thanks,
Glyn
> From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:28:39 -0500
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
>
> Do you have any pictures?
>
> Tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 6:38 PM
> Subject: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
>
>
>> All,
>>
>> I'm relisting this plea for help in locating some curtain track for
>>
>> I'm having the dickens of a time locating the upper curtain track for
>> over the galley in my 1969 Caravel. It's the 3" wide extruded aluminum
> type
>> that's 90 degrees on one side and 45 degrees on the other with the 1/4"
> wide
>> track running down the center. The total length needed is 5" 6".
>>
>> In addition, I'm looking for the gold anodized I-beam style lower
>> curtain track and attachments for under the front windows.
>>
>> Does anyone have an idea as to where I can get these two pieces? I
> have
>> a scanned isometric drawing I made of them for anyone wanting to see
the
>> specific shapes. I could try attaching it to a return email or could
fax
> it
>> to you.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any help,
>>
>> Glyn
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:04:38 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: 65 Tradewind
I have recently Aquired a 65 Tradewind that I took on a shakedown trip
this
weekend!
It passed with flying colors! Some WD40 and all systems are working
fine!!!!
Only this am I discovered the little floating ball next to the Couch that
showes the water level!!!!/.....Gotta love that simple engineering!!!! I
only
intend to play with it for a short time and then pass it on to someone
else who
would like to own such a unit.
I got it from the Orig. owners brother and it's soo original~ down to the
complete set of Melmac dinnerware!!!! Any one who is or knows anyone
interested
should contact me off list for more particulars.
AlanT
Phx Az
65 Tradewind
78 Arg. 30
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 17:03:26 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
Tom,
Let's try that again, this time sent to you and with the attachment.
I rescanned the isometric drawings I made and have attached them to
this email.
I need 6 feet of track #3 and 6' 10" of track #4.
They read 3" wide for #3 and 5/8" high and 3/16" wide for the I-beam
shown as #4.
again, let me know if you can read the scan. If not send me a fax
number if you have one and I'll send the original to you.
Thanks,
Glyn
> From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:28:39 -0500
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
>
> Do you have any pictures?
>
> Tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 6:38 PM
> Subject: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
>
>
>> All,
>>
>> I'm relisting this plea for help in locating some curtain track for
>>
>> I'm having the dickens of a time locating the upper curtain track for
>> over the galley in my 1969 Caravel. It's the 3" wide extruded aluminum
> type
>> that's 90 degrees on one side and 45 degrees on the other with the 1/4"
> wide
>> track running down the center. The total length needed is 5" 6".
>>
>> In addition, I'm looking for the gold anodized I-beam style lower
>> curtain track and attachments for under the front windows.
>>
>> Does anyone have an idea as to where I can get these two pieces? I
> have
>> a scanned isometric drawing I made of them for anyone wanting to see
the
>> specific shapes. I could try attaching it to a return email or could
fax
> it
>> to you.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any help,
>>
>> Glyn
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type multipart/appledouble]
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 17:08:17 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
All,
My apologies to you for sending my posts to the list instead of to Tom
and Buddy directly, back channel. I must have had my head under my wing
two
times in a row.
Sorry again for any inconvenience,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel #508
Santa Monica CA
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:12:53 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
I got them.
Tom
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
> Tom,
>
> Let's try that again, this time sent to you and with the attachment.
>
>
> I rescanned the isometric drawings I made and have attached them
to
> this email.
>
> I need 6 feet of track #3 and 6' 10" of track #4.
>
> They read 3" wide for #3 and 5/8" high and 3/16" wide for the I-beam
> shown as #4.
>
> again, let me know if you can read the scan. If not send me a fax
> number if you have one and I'll send the original to you.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glyn
>
>
>
> > From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> > Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:28:39 -0500
> > To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Subject: Re: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
> >
> > Do you have any pictures?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> > To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 6:38 PM
> > Subject: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
> >
> >
> >> All,
> >>
> >> I'm relisting this plea for help in locating some curtain track for
> >>
> >> I'm having the dickens of a time locating the upper curtain track for
> >> over the galley in my 1969 Caravel. It's the 3" wide extruded
aluminum
> > type
> >> that's 90 degrees on one side and 45 degrees on the other with the
1/4"
> > wide
> >> track running down the center. The total length needed is 5" 6".
> >>
> >> In addition, I'm looking for the gold anodized I-beam style lower
> >> curtain track and attachments for under the front windows.
> >>
> >> Does anyone have an idea as to where I can get these two pieces? I
> > have
> >> a scanned isometric drawing I made of them for anyone wanting to see
the
> >> specific shapes. I could try attaching it to a return email or could
fax
> > it
> >> to you.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance for any help,
> >>
> >> Glyn
> >>
> >> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> >> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type multipart/appledouble]
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:39:05 -0500
From: "Robin Leigh" <rgleigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Curtis,
I removed the original Dometic from our '65 Tradewind in an attempt to
replace the electric heater element. There are carriage bolts through the
steel angle 'skids' which hold the unit to the floor: the nuts are
accessible from below by removing the screen from the belly intake vent. I
also removed the rivets through the aluminum trim on the left side (next
to
the coach door in our Airstream). The refrigerator was removed with the
counter top attached. There are several screws fastening the back of the
counter top to the vent duct and screws in a spacer between the right side
panel and the broom closet. With the gas and electrical connections loose,
it came out easily.
It you are not replacing the refrigerator, I strongly recommend that
while you have it out, you remove the sheet metal around the boiler at the
back and inspect the tubing. Ours was heavily rusted; I cleaned it up and
repainted it with engine enamel. It stopped smelling on new paint after a
day or two. The local Dometic dealer confirmed that rust is the main
threat
to longevity of older units.
OBTW- I was unable to replace the electric heater because the shell of
the original was very tightly bound in its tube. It was not worth the risk
of damaging the boiler tubing by using force to remove it. The previous
owner had installed a smaller element, but it burned out, presumably
because
it did not contact the tubing around it well enough to transfer the heat.
Good Luck,
Robin Leigh.
- ------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 02:36:48 -00
From: "John Schubert" <flynya@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bookbinding my owners manual
I took my original owners & copied service manuals out of that spiral
stuff and put each page in a plastic sleeve protector then put them
in a blue zippered 3 ring binder with any other pertinent
instructions, forms, etc. Looks great and I dont have to worry about
smudging the pages or ruining it with a spilled beer.
John
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:08:05 -0800
From: "Arlen & Shirley" <globetrotter64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Interesting "Airstream" on Ebay
Words are not adequate to describe this neat miniature Airstream currently
offered on ebay! Go check out 3595358526. I am in NO WAY involved with
this offering, but doesn't it capture the flavor of "the hunt" of looking
for an old Airstream trailer? (If you are unfamiliar with die cast
miniature models, this is actually a MUCH modified Motor City Classics
1:18
scale Airstream. The "stock" version is actually a very nicely made and
detailed model - currently available and reasonably priced.)
Arlen Manning
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:15:54 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Watco question
Got a simple question, I think - can you use stain first then cover with
Watco, or does Watco need to be used on bare wood.
Does anyone know what color/colors Airstream used for stain in the late
50's
Thanks!
Ken J.
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:58:42 -0700
From: "phelock" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Thanks,
Curtis
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:55:17 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #187 - RV insurance
This emphasizes the need to ask questions and to read your policy.
According to Progressive, if the trailer was being towed and came loose
any damage would be covered by the tow vehicle's liability insurance. For
your trailer to be covered you would have to have a rider on your tow
vehicle policy to cover the trailer itself, or a policy on the trailer
that covered it.
A trailer that comes loose is like a load that falls out of your pickup
bed. It should be covered, but again, ask questions and read your policy.
Al
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 09:09:27 -0800
> > From: "John Wilson" <katyree@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Subject: [VAL] Insurance Resources-72 Globetrotter.
> >
> > Any suggestions for insurance ?
> > I understand the liability goes with the vehicle insurance but if you
want collision, comprehensive or towing you may want to use a alternative
insurer.
> > Received some fairly high quotes from Good Sam.
> > Anyone found alternatives?
> > John
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:10:08 -0600
> From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #186 - Travel trailer insurance
>
> Liability insurance-- I was told that the tow vehicle's liability
insurance covered any accident the trailer might get into as long as the
trailer was attached to the tow vehicle. If the trailer came
disconnected there would be no liability insurance. Seems like another
loophole in the insurance industry to make more money.
> Dan
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 10:15:16 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #187 - Monocoque construction
"Monocoque" is "unitary construction" with no separate frame.
"Semi-monocoque" is a body that provides part of the strength and most of
the stiffness, like old Volkswagen Beetles. The body is rigidly bolted,
or even welded, to the frame. This is the way AS and most other AS-like
aluminum trailers are constructed. AS is the standard by which others are
judged. Some have been superior to AS in some ways; most have been
inferior to AS.
Separate body and frame construction has all the strength in the
underframe. The body is fastened to the frame with flexible joints,
usually cushions, that reduce noise transmission from the chassis (frame
and running gear) into the body. Our Chevy van is separate body and frame
construction. Pre-1996 Chevy/GMC vans were unit body
(unibody/unitary/monocoque) construction. The front and rear suspensions
were on subframes that were bolted to the body, with no frame rails
running under the body from the front to the rear subframes. Some
vehicles have had separate body and frame construction with relatively
flimsy frames and a stiff, strong body, muddling the distinction between
semi-monocoque and separate body and frame construction.
Al
> Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:00:06 -0800
> From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #185 - Stiffness, rigidity
>
> Tom: does your statement hold for the old AS trailers as well or is
there a pre-monocoque cutoff date?
...............................................
> Jo Ann
> On 12, Mar 2004, at 10:27 PM, waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
> > Airstreams and similar trailers such as Avion, Silver Streak,
Streamline, etc., are semi-monocoque construction. The body provides a
large part of the strength of the trailer, especially stiffness.
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 21:12:43 -0700
From: "phelock" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Gary,
I think it is the original. Yes it is the M52.
There are no holes in the belly pan under the fridge.
Thanks,
Curtis
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 21:13:52 -0700
From: "phelock" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Thanks,
Curtis
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 21:15:05 -0700
From: "phelock" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Thanks Ed,
Curtis
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 21:19:13 -0700
From: "phelock" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Thanks Robin,
Curtis
- ------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #188
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 15:49:01 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Clearcoat is like the laquer coating on brass hardware and other metals
that keep it from tanishing. Bare aluminum gradually dulls and oxidises
(?) getting grayer and more corroded with time.
AS has had a number of different formulas for this coating. Some are
pretty tough and others get cloudy and peel off eventually, which makes
the trailer look awful. The only thing to do at that point is to strip
off the clearcoat.
Then, you are faced with a choice: polish it once a year (or twice if
you are obsessed ) or have it recoated by a pro. Not a job for home.
Toxic and difficult to handle.
Daisy
Cheyanne & Randy wrote:
> I am confused. Isn't clearcoating the stuff that makes an airstream
> shiny? Why would you try to remove it? If the clearcoat is damaged,
> isn't that hat causes the airstream to look like it has leprosy?
>
> Cheyanne
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 15:28:12 -0600
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: disc brakes
Dexter Axles has a new disk brake product now. See :
http://www.dexteraxle.com/new_products
Also at Sarasota, in one of the Airstream Company sessions,
it was mentioned that Airstream is planning on using disk brakes again
in the future.
AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>In a message dated 3/14/2004 11:01:48 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
>Does anybody have experience or an opinion on installing disc brakes on an
>Airstream? We have a 1969 Caravel, 18 ft. single axle.
>
>Rob and Carole
>San Diego
>I had em on my 79 Ambassador
>They were great when they worked.
>It was an exact car type system with a vacuum servo set on the tongue behind
>the tanks.
>You plug a hose into your tow vehicles engine vacuum.
>Our BUD Andy makes the disc pads for them and repairs the units.
>Most people remove them and install elec. ones!
>He might have experience with the reverse!
>
>AlanT
>Phx AZ
>78 Arg30
>65 Tradewind
>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 15:45:50 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Watco question
Ken - actually, you can add stain to the Watco and do it all in one or
two applications. Depending on what color you going for in the stain,
you can make it (color the Watco) out of oil paints in tubes - the
Grumager or Grumaker or whatever it is. It's the oil color that artists
use. I mixed burnt umber (sort of dirt/dark brown) + a bit of burnt
sienna, (a reddish brown) in a bit of turpentine, then added it to the
Watco. Brush it on some samples of your wood first to adjust the color.
I used it on raw birch plywood and after it was well dried, put a coat
of clear urethane for protection.
Jo Ann
On 14, Mar 2004, at 7:15 PM, Kenneth E. Johansen wrote:
> Got a simple question, I think - can you use stain first then cover
> with
> Watco, or does Watco need to be used on bare wood.
>
> Does anyone know what color/colors Airstream used for stain in the
> late 50's
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ken J.
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 21:13:25 -0500
From: Kevin Chop <kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
To whom that may have some insight,
With the interior skin removed, I would like to re-seal the seams from
the inside. The existing black sealer is failing (flaking off). What
is recommended to re-seal the seams? I was considering Vulkem? Or will
Vulkem fail under heat?
Thanks
Kevin & Valerie Chop
#5585
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 21:23:56 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Vulkem on the outside is the best, it does not fail in heat or cold or
dark of night or sun or anything else. Sealing from the inside would be
a waste of time I think..
I have no idea what the black stuff on the inside would be....
Does anyone ?
Daisy
Kevin Chop wrote:
> To whom that may have some insight,
>
> With the interior skin removed, I would like to re-seal the seams from
> the inside. The existing black sealer is failing (flaking off). What
> is recommended to re-seal the seams? I was considering Vulkem? Or will
> Vulkem fail under heat?
>
> Thanks
>
> Kevin & Valerie Chop
> #5585
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 21:21:27 -0500
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Hello,
I sealed the inside seems of my 59 with rubberized undercoating. I
sprayed each seem and rivet but also sealed each outside seem as well. I
stopped the leaks but had to apply the undercoating a number of times.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Chop
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 9:13 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
To whom that may have some insight,
With the interior skin removed, I would like to re-seal the seams from
the inside. The existing black sealer is failing (flaking off). What
is recommended to re-seal the seams? I was considering Vulkem? Or will
Vulkem fail under heat?
Thanks
Kevin & Valerie Chop
#5585
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:36:35 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
Kevin,
If I'm reading your post correctly you are saying you want to *re-seal the
seams from the inside*. You say you have the interior skin removed - you
are looking at the backside of the exterior skin and you want to re-seal
THOSE seams "from the inside"?
Why? For what purpose? Unless you expect a torrent of water between the
interior and exterior skins and you are concerned that this torrential flood
of water would actually leak from the inside to the outside I don't see your
point. You are wasting your time and materials to accomplish nothing from
what I can tell from the way you worded your post.
Who cares if there isn't a continual bead of sealant that you can see on the
seams of the backside of the exterior skin? What difference would it make
even if you did?
Seal all exterior seams with Vulkem. Re-install your interior skin and do
not seal it at all - it never was meant to be sealed *because* it would
serve no purpose whatsoever if you did. The interior skins overlap as they
were meant to for appearances sake and it also adds to the strength of the
trailer somewhat. The exterior skin along with the stringers and ribs is
where 99% of your trailer's strength comes from - the semi-monocoque
construction.
Save your energies for the other projects the vintage trailers require - and
save your hard earned cash for other things you will need without wasting it
on sealer in places that would do absolutely no good.
That's just my humble opinion of course. ;))
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Kevin Chop" <kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 1956 Caravanner Skin Care
> With the interior skin removed, I would like to re-seal the seams from
> the inside. The existing black sealer is failing (flaking off). What
> is recommended to re-seal the seams? I was considering Vulkem? Or will
> Vulkem fail under heat?
> Kevin & Valerie Chop
> #5585
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 20:55:54 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
From: Amanda Meeker <goldens510@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Clearcoat question
Hi, Graeme,
I've fallen a bit behind on my list reading here, and have a notion Jim already
gave you some advice on quantity, but I'll just put in my 2 cents, which is that
I bet three gallons of the Napier SV-35AC would do it easily. Can't recall whether
the 5-gal would be more economical. I only used one gallon on mine, but I had
already done some with the nasty Aircraft Remover before Jim tipped me off, and
almost the whole top of mine was already a thing of the past...
Best,
Amanda
'68 Safari
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 20:59:58 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
From: Amanda Meeker <goldens510@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Clearcoat question
Graeme,
Oops, should have kept reading before I answered your last. I did mask my lenses
just to be on the safe side, but I'm not sure it was necessary. What's interesting
about the SV 35 AC is that it doesn't actually dissolve the plasticoat like the
Aircraft Remover did; it just caused it to separate from the aluminum.
Amanda
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:25:19 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
I've never seen clearcoat get cloudy over time when it is properly adhered
to the aluminum skin. I have seen clearcoat begin to release from the
aluminum skin and the clearcoat in that area was cloudy as you say. When
the clear coating is broken moisturized air gets underneath the applied
clearcoat and begins to lift if off the aluminum skin - which might or might
not cause the cloudy appearance.
I have clearcoat lifting off in places on our 1995 Airstream and this
peeling clearcoat is still clear to look through. Automobiles that have
clearcoat which is allowed to develop cracks in the clearcoat due to neglect
also appear to be cloudy as you say. It is no different in appearance on
automobiles or Airstreams when the clearcoating begins to deteriorate and
lift off the sheetmetal.
Also, not all aluminum skin is created equal. The older Airstreams used
clad aluminum whereas the newer Airstreams didn't but rather used a newer
alloy instead. You can actually see the difference in the aluminum skins
that have clad aluminum versus the skins that don't have it.
You can polish the clad aluminum skins to a mirror finish but remember you
are removing a finite amount of that clad aluminum in the process. I have
no idea how many times you would need to polish the skins removing oxidation
before you'd actually begin to damage the underlying aluminum alloy of the
clad-coated aluminum skin. I'm sure it can be done though.
It serves no purpose that I know of to even try to attempt a mirror shine on
the newer alloy aluminum sheetmetal. The two metals would never look the
same - only clad aluminum will give the mirror finish.
The darker aluminum skin used by Airstream does not have the 100% aluminum
cladding like the older Airstreams, which is why it is darker in appearance.
I do not know what year or years are involved when Airstream began switching
over from the clad aluminum to the unclad aluminum alloy of today. I'm sure
that the clearcoats have also changed chemically over the years - but on
second thought maybe I won't bet on that either.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
> Nope. Clear coat is transparent when applied but gets cloudy over time and
> begins to peel off. The aluminum skin is sort of shiny but it's the
> polishing of the aluminum that makes it really shiny by removing the
> oxidation on the surface of the aluminum skin.
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 21:47:37 -0800 (PST)
From: John Leggett <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Curtain Track needed
Glynn-
I would call Charlie Burke at American Way RV 800-345-6651.
If the stuff is commercailly available, he will find it. He helped me out
when retrofitting my 1968 Safari a while back.
John Leggett
WBCCI #1154
San Fran
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 15:38:30 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Curtain track needed, relisting
All,
I'm relisting this plea for help in locating some curtain track for
I'm having the dickens of a time locating the upper curtain track
for
over the galley in my 1969 Caravel. It's the 3" wide extruded aluminum
type
that's 90 degrees on one side and 45 degrees on the other with the 1/4"
wide
track running down the center. The total length needed is 5" 6".
In addition, I'm looking for the gold anodized I-beam style lower
curtain track and attachments for under the front windows.
Does anyone have an idea as to where I can get these two pieces? I
have
a scanned isometric drawing I made of them for anyone wanting to see
the
specific shapes. I could try attaching it to a return email or could
fax it
to you.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Glyn
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Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 21:52:38 -0800 (PST)
From: John Leggett <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Clearcoat question
I too would reco the Napier product, but when you're all through and still find
spots left, I have found Citrus-strip at Home Depot to work well, as recommended
by Arlen Manning. (I just couldn't rationalize buying yet another very expensive
gallon of Napier for the little stuff I missed the first time over).
John Leggett
WBCCI #1154
San Fran
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 16:57:44 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
Grame, Amanda's suggestion is the way to go. I used it and recommended
it to her. It works like a charm and is fast and safe. It beats anything else
out there hands down.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
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------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #189
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