VAL Digest V1 #184

VAL Digest          Thursday, March 11 2004          Volume 01 : Number 184




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] lots of old pictures here
[VAL] bye bye bubbles?
[VAL] shower pan hole
Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  Bargman L-100 outside half lock assy.
Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  Bargman L-100 outside half lock assy.
Re: [VAL] Andy
[VAL] leak
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
[VAL] Door Hinge Question
Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question
Re: [VAL] leak
Re: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter
[VAL] frame repair
Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question
Re: [VAL] leak
Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  Bargman L-100 outside half lock assy.
[VAL] Paint; 1956 Caravanner
[VAL] Surfing Safari 1969
Re: [VAL] Surfing Safari 1969
Re: [VAL] Surfing Safari 1969
Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question
Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question
Re: [VAL] Paint; 1956 Caravanner
Re: [VAL] Surfing Safari 1969
Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 23:30:07 -0800
From: "Oliver Filippi" <ofilippi@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums

The right way to do this would be to balance the tire/wheel assembly, and
the hub/drum SEPARATELY. [ Ideally, one should balance the hub and drum
separately as well.]  Thus the trailer's tires can be rotated without
affecting the balance.

Some time ago, I called a number of machine shops that balance racing
engines.  These are the only firms that I have found that are equipped (or
know how to balance a hub/and or drum).  I am sure there are other sources,
but I did not persue the issue any further.

Spin balancing the tire on the trailer will balance the wheel AND the
hub/drum as a single unit.  However, besides the drawback of not being able
to rotate the tires, one has to be careful to remount the wheel in exactly
the same position on the hub if it is removed to, say check the condition of
the brake shoes or magnets (same studs to drum and wheel bolt holes).  There
is also another subtle but significant problem with this approach:  The
wheel/tire assembly will not be dynamically balanced - which is achieved on
the good off the vehicle computer balancers (Hoffman, Coates, FMC, etc.).
[The dynamic balance is the lateral balance between the inside and outside
of the tire/wheel assembly (eliminating any side to side wobble).]

I do not know the answer to the following questions, which are relavent to
this discussion:  Namely, how much of an effect can an out of balance hub
and brake drum contribute?  This has two components. 1) How much rotational
imbalance (variation) is there in a typical hub and drum; and 2) how
significant is this imbalance in the scheme of things?

Since the hub is a relatively small diameter compared to the wheel, it is
not going to contribute as much imbalance as the larger diameter tire
assembly.  The drum could have a larger impact, but only if the imbalance is
significant. Thus we may be getting overly concerned about a trivial
component in the equation.

My guess is that the hub and brake drum are not a major variable. Hence go
with the off the vehicle computerized spin balance.

For what it's worth, the German Hoffman is probably the best balancer (they
are now imported by FMC).  Hoffman invented the computer gyro technology,
and their machines are used in many industries to balance cutterheads and
other rotating assemblies where vibration is an undesireable factor.

Oliver Filippi

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Kerfoot" <wkerfoot@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums


> Stan Truitt wrote:
>
> >how important is hub and drum balancing?
> >does it need to be done?
> >
> >
> I have followed this thread from the beginning, but no one answered the
> question.  For those of you who have either replaced tires or packed
> wheel bearings, did you balance the tire/wheel combination with or
> without the brake drum?
>
> Bill Kerfoot

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 02:59:58 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] lots of old pictures here

I don't think we as Americans have anything to fear about Europeans buying
up *all* of our cherished Airstreams at any price.  Like everything else we
only get to use these 'things' while we or our heirs are alive - sort of
like housing which we buy only to sell one day down the road.

That site featured an overseas Airstream broker who even stated in their
Forum that in short order Airstream will be building trailers "over there".
I never heard THAT before!  Have you?

Tom

> Though they are nice and money talks, I still hate to see our history be
> shipped
> overseas to the highest bidder. But, I guess we do the same with European
> antiques.
>
> Paul Waddell
> WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
> 66 Overlander (That will never be sold overseas by me!)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:57:27 +0900
From: Jeffrey Fryckman <fryckman@xxxxxxxxxx.att.ne.jp>
Subject: [VAL] bye bye bubbles?

Not only Europe is interested.  Check out Airstream Cafe on the web for 
a Japan enthusiast!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 06:47:06 -0600
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] shower pan hole

Hi all-
The plastic shower pan in our '79 International 31' has a hole in the 
floor. I was able to take it out, and am now debating if I should 
repair it or replace it. I would the most effective repair would 
involve fiberglass and epoxy. Anyone know of a source for new ones, and 
related costs?
Thanks!
Chris K.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 10:11:07 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  Bargman L-100 outside half lock assy.

Glyn

Isn't it something, that here, one day after I was talking with Andy about a
lock, you have one.
Bobby
  ----- Original Message -----
  Wrom: QHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQTIPWIGYOKSTTZRCLBDX
  To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
  Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 9:16 PM
  Subject: [VAL] Cargo Shifting: Bargman L-100 outside half lock assy.


      All,

      Tonight I'm offering the outside half of a Bargman L-100 lock from my
  1969 Caravel.  This is only the outside half and that, is missing the latch
  bolt and latch spring.  It's 3 1/2" X 3" with the round knob.

      That said, the lock works and it comes with one original key.  The
  chrome is intact with the usual moderate pitting of the pot metal beneath.
  If your lock is bad and you have the bolt and spring, this would be a great
  part to return your lock to operation.

      If you can personally use this part and don't want it just to resell
it,
  it's yours if you're the first to respond back to me and if you agree to
pay
  the postage it'll take to send it to you.

      Later,

      Glyn Judson

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 07:31:29 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  Bargman L-100 outside half lock assy.

    Bobby, 

    If I read your email correctly, you'd like to have my old lock?  If so,
email me back channel with your postal address and I'll mail it to you
today.  

    Regards,

    Glyn

> From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 10:11:07 -0500
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  Bargman L-100 outside half lock assy.
> 
> Glyn
> 
> Isn't it something, that here, one day after I was talking with Andy about a
> lock, you have one.
> Bobby
> ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom: QHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQTIPWIGYOKSTTZRCLBDX
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 9:16 PM
> Subject: [VAL] Cargo Shifting: Bargman L-100 outside half lock assy.
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> Tonight I'm offering the outside half of a Bargman L-100 lock from my
> 1969 Caravel.  This is only the outside half and that, is missing the latch
> bolt and latch spring.  It's 3 1/2" X 3" with the round knob.
> 
> That said, the lock works and it comes with one original key.  The
> chrome is intact with the usual moderate pitting of the pot metal beneath.
> If your lock is bad and you have the bolt and spring, this would be a great
> part to return your lock to operation.
> 
> If you can personally use this part and don't want it just to resell
> it,
> it's yours if you're the first to respond back to me and if you agree to
> pay
> the postage it'll take to send it to you.
> 
> Later,
> 
> Glyn Judson
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html<http://www.tompatter
> son.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>
> 
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
> Emoticon1.gif]
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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> 
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 10:55:33 EST
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Andy

It has already been established that too many are too quick to be negative. 
 I want to add my experience to those who have already expressed their thanks 
to Andy.  Two years ago I bought my first AS and a majority of the posts on 
this site pointed to Andy and his staff as a resource.  I bought several items 
from Inland RV over a period of 6 months and have been very happy with the 
items I purchased and the support that I received from the staff.  I will 
continue to do business with them as the need arises.  I too feel that Andys input to 
this site is very much missed.

Tom Fairbank
1969 Tradewind

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 10:19:07 -0600
From: "Faith Navarro" <Beshway1@MC2K.com>
Subject: [VAL] leak

We have a very small leak in our 1974 A/S that only happens when it rains. The
only place it shows up is on the floor, under the bookshelves, at the left of
a main window in the living room.
we have tried taping and putting plastic around the main window, the small
window below it, and on top around the vent window and TV antenna. the only
place we haven't touched on that side is the sunlight window at the edge of
the ceiling . One problem I notice is that the trailer is setting a little out
of level leaning to that side and the window that we didn't do anything to, is
slightly difficult to raise the inside cover and the frame around it is not
fitting secure.  I just feel sure it is all because the A/S needs leveling as
I know in a regular mobile home that is unlevel, the cupboards don't shut well
as well as the entrance doors and the windows are hard to raise.
  Could I please get some feedback? My husband doesn't seem to think I know
what I am talking about and if I am wrong, I don't mind admitting it and if
I'm right, I won't gloat. My A/S
comes first and foremost with me before pride.
Faith Navarro



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 10:56:58 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums

For new tires on my Caravel, I balanced the tires and wheels on the
balance machine. I ignored the drums. The swing radius of the drums are
small and according to page 5-71 of Marks' Standard Handbook for
Mechanical Engineers, the magnitude of the unbalance is the product of
the unbalance mass, the radius, and the speed squared. On a ten inch
diameter drum the radius is then 5 inches, while the tire diameter is
closer to 30 inches, with radius 15 inches. So the effect of each ounce
of unbalance is three times as much on the tire as the drum. The hub
radius is much smaller and separating hub and drum is extremely unhandy.

I'm of the opinion that static balance is not a great benefit and that
most static balance hardware is too insensitive to be of benefit. As a
practical matter, drums and hubs don't fit modern computer based balance
machinery commonly available in tire stores so can only be statically
balanced.

Some brands of trailers use large diameter mounting circles for the
wheels that don't fit balancing machines. Only spin balancing is
possible for those. It takes only a little dab of paint to mark rim and
drum matches. Tire rotation on a trailer shouldn't be very needed except
to put some wear on the spare, hoping to not loose the spare by old age
without it ever being on the road. There is some effect on radial tires
of braking tending to tilt the radial plies that might be offset by
swapping tire side to side. I'm not going to worry much about either, my
trailer tires will die of old age without wear being a problem. The main
reason for rotating tires on the tow vehicle is that the drive axle
wears differently than the undriven axle and in the case of radial tires
the driven axle tends to tilt the radial plies differently than those
plies are tilted by an axle that does only braking. On a trailer the
axles should be parallel, and if the trailer is hauled level, the loads
should be equal and the wear equal from braking and turning, so that
rotation has essentially no benefits so once balanced to a drum and
marked with paint dots, the tire and drum balance matched should stay
until the weights fly off the wheels.

As a practical matter, most drums don't have any provision for
balancing, other than machining excess metal. That's not a tire shop
procedure. And too much drilling can weaken the drum to lead to cracks
or breakage. I suppose one could string a wire around the outside of the
drum to hold weights that would stay until the wire broke or was shifted
by inquisitive fingers or brush. Some vintages of car drums used a
spring around the drum to quieten brake noises. Looked like a screen
door spring. Or one could solder some lead to the light side of the
drum, but that would require a thorough cleaning to get to bare metal
and the heat may warp the drum, then really hard braking could melt the
solder and wreck the balance. That could happen to any applied lead drum
balancing weights.

Gerald J.

- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:07:32 -0500
From: Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Door Hinge Question

Hey Gang-

I have some slop in my front door hinge on my 1966 Safari. The Door is begining to 
sag clockwise when shut. 
How have folks handled this?
It looks like I will have no trouble drifting out the roll pin and hinge pin as 
they seem to yeild easily, but haven't disassembled it all yet. 

Where does the wear seem to occur most? The Hinge Casting or the Hinge Pin? Any 
advice?

Thanks in Advance

Alex in Indiana (wintering in Melbourne, FL) 
WBCCI # 8728 '66 Safari & Overlander

appearing at 
Heritage Days Festival O'Leno State Park 
near High Springs, FL March 13th & 14th

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:17:40 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question

Alex,

The wear will occur first with the softer material.  If the casting is
aluminum and the hinge pin is steel ....  Or vice versa but I don't think
the pins would be made out of aluminum.  To get things back to normal you
may have to shim the hinge casting I would think - something on the order of
putting in a bushing that is as hard as the hinge pin itself.  And if all
else fails it is possible today to have almost anything made by a machine
shop by taking a billet of aluminum and cutting it to shape with a CNC
machine.

Let us know how you get this problem solved.

Tom
WBCCI 5303


From: <Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Where does the wear seem to occur most? The Hinge Casting or the Hinge
Pin? Any advice?
> Alex in Indiana (wintering in Melbourne, FL)
> WBCCI # 8728 '66 Safari & Overlander

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:25:23 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] leak

Faith,

One of the most frustrating issues you can face with any mobile piece of
equipment like our Airstream trailers if chasing water leaks.  Ask me how I
know! ;)

For one thing there are so many seams - everywhere - that all it takes is a
pin hole sized opening somewhere for water to enter the inside of your
trailer.  And then the not so fun job of finding exactly where that hole is
becomes monumental at worst.

Some people have solved the water leak problem by resealing every seam -
everywhere - that they can physically see.  Colored water poured over seams
might give you something on the inside of your trailer to follow back to
wherever it is that the water is entering.  Most likely the water will be
entering your trailer where you least expect it to.  You could have a window
seal leaking or you could have a tiny hole in the sealant in a skin seam -
somewhere down the path of that seam.

The most cost and time effective way to go after any leak, unless you know
EXACTLY where an opening is, is to buy some Vulkem, follow the directions
and reseal your trailer.  Then you will have a tight trailer.

Tom
WBCCI 5303


From: "Faith Navarro" <Beshway1@MC2K.com>


> We have a very small leak in our 1974 A/S that only happens when it rains.
The
> only place it shows up is on the floor, under the bookshelves, at the left
of
> a main window in the living room.
> we have tried taping and putting plastic around the main window, the small
> window below it, and on top around the vent window and TV antenna. the
only
> place we haven't touched on that side is the sunlight window at the edge
of
> the ceiling . One problem I notice is that the trailer is setting a little
out
> of level leaning to that side and the window that we didn't do anything
to, is
> slightly difficult to raise the inside cover and the frame around it is
not
> fitting secure.  I just feel sure it is all because the A/S needs leveling
as
> I know in a regular mobile home that is unlevel, the cupboards don't shut
well
> as well as the entrance doors and the windows are hard to raise.
>   Could I please get some feedback? My husband doesn't seem to think I
know
> what I am talking about and if I am wrong, I don't mind admitting it and
if
> I'm right, I won't gloat. My A/S
> comes first and foremost with me before pride.
> Faith Navarro

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:50:46 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter

William Kerfoot wrote:


> 
> The only way to have a long wheelbase and low center of gravity is to 
> use a pre 1980 automobile.  A pickup, especially a four wheel drive, has 
> a much higher center of gravity.

Which is exactly what the As was designed to be towed by. Lacking a 1973 
   Dark blue station wagon at the moment, a 3/4 ton Pickup or a suburban 
is what you want.

Now that I think about it, my first car was a 1958 Plymouth Suburban. 
Wish I had it now. But the floor rusted away. You could pick up road 
trash without getting out of the car.

Daisy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:53:30 -0500
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] frame repair

Hi,
I have a 53 Flying Cloud I'm getting ready for the road. I have the belly 
pan off and am contemplating strengthening the frame. I would like to know 
if anyone has done this to their Airstream and how was it done. I was going 
to use steel channel smaller than the present channel and weld it to the 
inside of the frame. Looking at the frame it appears the weakest area would 
be from the hitch to the first spring perch.

I also could weld a plate onto the open side of the channel but this would 
take more time than the U style channel to do. Anyone have any comments?
Thanks,
Bob Patterson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:27:47 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question

My guess is that the wear would be mostly in the casting that the hinge
pin turns in. Concentrating the hinging at the middle of the door makes
the door position very sensitive to hinge position, but the curve of the
side wall of the Airstream makes it hard to have a long hinge or a pair
of hinges to make the wear less significant.

I'd wedge or prop up the door to make the door align properly. Then in
some dykem, I'd scribe a line about the hinge pin in both pieces of the
door hinge to define how the part should align. Then I'd take the hinge
pieces off the door and take them to a machine shop to have a sleeve
made and machined into the worn parts. Aluminum bronze would be a fine
material for that sleeve, probably a porous bronze bearing insert would
work well though there's concern about dissimilar materials leading to
corrosion.

Dykem is a blue paint machinists use to cover metals so that light
scribe marks stand out. Gets more precision without the scribe having to
cut into the metal. A waterproof magic marker lays down a film that is
as useful. No scribe, use the point of a sharp knife to make a very
narrow scratch in the paint film. Dykem and magic markers wash off with
alcohol.

While the door hinge is at the machine shop, a flat strap on the hinge
bolt holes, both in the sidewall and the door should hold the door in
place. That could be a piece of wood.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:27:40 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] leak

Could be a seam up on top and it runs down the inside of the wall until
it runs out on the floor. Any tiny gap can leak. Rather than chasing the
leak it may be most effective to work some vulkem in every seam top to
bottom and end to end.

A bit out of level on the parking shouldn't twist the frame to make
cabinet doors stick. A bit of rotting floor might contribute to sticky
cabinet doors though.

A few shops can plug the vents and pressurize the Airstream and locate
leaks by the bubbles in a soapy water solution on the outside. Its not a
trivial task, I think caulking every seam and joint and window casing is
quicker and fixes more latent problems.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:35:38 EST
From: Hmcsteph@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Cargo Shifting:  Bargman L-100 outside half lock assy.

Hello, My wife and I just purchased a 1969, 23 ft, safari. This is not only 
our first Airstream, it is our first travel trailer. It is in need of alot of 
love.
It has no keys to it and the outside door knob has been damaged by a 
screwdriver (for a key , i guess).
I would gladly put your handle toward good use, and any advice on how to find 
parts, especially replacement furniture, would be great.
How can we contact you for our address?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:39:44 -0500
From: Kevin Chop <kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Paint; 1956 Caravanner

Hi,

We have just completed removing the inside skin of our 1956 Caravanner. 
  A previous owner had painted over the original Zola-Tone paint with a 
few coats of acrylic paint.  We would like to strip and re-paint the 
interior.

1. What is best way to strip the paint off the skin?  Stripeze?

2. Should we just strip the acrylic paint and paint over the original 
paint or should we strip it all of the paint off the skin?

3. What type of paint is recommended once the paint is stripped?

4.  Should we paint prior to re-installing the skin, or should we paint 
once the skin is re-installed?

Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You

Kevin & Valerie Chop
#5585

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:02:46 EST
From: Hmcsteph@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Surfing Safari 1969

Hello, my wife and i just purchased a 1969 23ft Safari. It is our first 
travel trailer. 
It is in needs a lot of love and work. I am currently  replacing the flooring 
and repairing the cabinets.
We have ordered an owners manual, but we cannot find any airstream parts 
catalogs, a "How to restore an Airstream For Dummies", or a detailed parts 
website. I may be looking in the wrong places. I called our local AS dealer (4-hours 
away) who asked me to bring him the parts i would like to replace for proper 
matching and identification. Is this the only way?

I also need replacement furniture. My "local" dealer can only offer furniture 
that is available in the new models..

Suggestions on door & window seals, caulking, and polish for a badly oxidized 
skin would also be helpful.

I have already learned a great deal from just reading the last two days of 
replies and questions. This posting system is great.

I am sorry if I am asking for too much in one email, any replies, no matter 
how small, would be helpful. My wife and I are just anxious, and excited about 
getting our new baby on the road to the beach!!!
Thank you!!
Chris & Monica

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:08:55 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Surfing Safari 1969

Chris& Monica,

Congrad's on the new unit. Working on an Airstream I have found is like
working on an old house and an old car at the same time. If you are handy
around the house and can change your own oil you should be OK. The
systems in a trailer are much like the ones in your house. You have a main
water line coming in (either from the holding take or outside hookup) for
your water. Much like in a house you have cold, cold lines to hot tank, tank
and cold line to sink. Stove and frig are like a house, gas line from tank
(source)
to unit using gas. Electric, a little different. You have two types, AC and
DC
current and a Univolt that makes AC into DC. Outside lights just like a car,
running, brake, turn, etc... Brakes on trailer(just uses electric) Wheel
bearing,
tires, etc... like a car.

Most people start with the main systems (as long as the floor, frame, are in
good shape and the trailer is not leaking) first. After the main system are
up
to snuff, I would start with inside, cabinets, counters, etc.... Last for me
would
be the tires, brakes, wheel bearings. The reason for this order, the first
thing
to hit the road is done last. Tires have a five year life, bearings don't
like to sit.
Now, If you are planning on using the trailer during the restore process,
it's almost
the opposite. The very first thing you do is make sure you have good tires,
brakes,
etc.... Allot of people work on the unit as they are using it. What better
place to
get info on fixing something than at a Airstream (WBCCI) rally. Most of the
people
there have already been through or are going through the same thing you are!

If your not a member, I would suggest going the WBCCI and the VAC. VAC
rallies
are great for meeting people and learning more than you'll ever need to know
about
redoing a trailer and maybe an unknown source for parts. At the big WBCCI
rallies
some have seminars on solar, hitches, different systems, etc.... And many of
these
seminars are given by the vendors who make the product. If you were at the
Florida
State Rally you could have learned what it takes to put in solar(no need for
power outlets).


I doubt this helps much but you never know.

Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
66' Overlander


From: <Hmcsteph@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Surfing Safari 1969


> Hello, my wife and i just purchased a 1969 23ft Safari. It is our first
> travel trailer.
> It is in needs a lot of love and work. I am currently  replacing the
flooring
> and repairing the cabinets.
> We have ordered an owners manual, but we cannot find any airstream parts
> catalogs, a "How to restore an Airstream For Dummies", or a detailed parts
> website.  Is this the only way?
> I am sorry if I am asking for too much in one email, any replies, no
matter
> how small, would be helpful. My wife and I are just anxious, and excited
about
> getting our new baby on the road to the beach!!!
> Thank you!!
> Chris & Monica

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:08:22 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Surfing Safari 1969

Many of the RV parts in the Airstream are common to other brands of
RV's. Livingston's book on care of RV's is a good reference for those
standard items (like refrigerator, stove, electric circuits, and
plumbing including fixtures).

There have been occasional stashes of furniture found from places
converting Airstreams to other uses, or those doing drastic remodels, or
those salvaging damaged Airstreams.

Tom Patterson's web pages have a very good FAQ on Airstream specifics
and an archive of many of the posts to this and the previous VAC list.

Caulking needs Vulkem in the aluminum color, sometimes available from
Lowe's, Menard's, or Home Depot or else Airstream Dreams. It needs to be
worked into all seams. I've found a good selection of seals at
McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com and the door of my '68 Caravel no longer
leaks with its new door seal from McMaster-Carr. Window seals may be
tougher to identify.

There is a good section on Tom's pages about polishing.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:26:58 -0700
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question

I haven't had any door sag in my '66 yet, but have wondered about it because
the hinge pin tends to work its way out and down. I've had to tap it back in
place from time to time. It will only be a matter of time, and I'll have to
do something too. I figure that when it's time all I'll have to do is get a
slightly larger pin (assuming that the softer hinge has worn evenly from top
to bottom). Of course it might take some searching to find a source. The
solution might just be that simple (and inexpensive).

Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 22:46:32 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question

Forrest,

If you install a larger pin you will have to ream out the entire length of
the hinge as it is "in place".  This might not be accomplished as easily as
you envision unless the door is properly aligned and held tightly in place.
One little shift, no matter how slight and the hinge could become useless.
Whenever you have this done be sure you have done your homework about just
who is going to do this work for you - they need to be a trailer doctor at
least and a trailer surgeon at best.  Oh yeah, and they don't want to have
any record of being sued for malpractice either. ;))

Tom
WBCCI 5303

From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>

> I haven't had any door sag in my '66 yet, but have wondered about it
because
> the hinge pin tends to work its way out and down. I've had to tap it back
in
> place from time to time. It will only be a matter of time, and I'll have
to
> do something too. I figure that when it's time all I'll have to do is get
a
> slightly larger pin (assuming that the softer hinge has worn evenly from
top
> to bottom). Of course it might take some searching to find a source. The
> solution might just be that simple (and inexpensive).
>
> Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:47:17 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Paint; 1956 Caravanner

    Kevin,

    You're going to laugh when you read what I'm about to suggest but you
might try very hot water from your garden hose to soften the acrylic paint
enough to carefully remove it with a stiff brush or a plastic scrubby with a
little Joy liquid or equivalent.  Test a small piece in the kitchen under
your sink faucet to develop a system.  If it turns out to be latex, so much
the better, it even softens more under hot water.  You might end up finding
the old Zola-Tone to be in good enough shape to use again.

    Good luck,

    Glyn Judson
    1969 Caravel, #508
    Santa Monica CA


> From: Kevin Chop <kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:39:44 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Paint; 1956 Caravanner
> 
> Hi,
> 
> We have just completed removing the inside skin of our 1956 Caravanner.
> A previous owner had painted over the original Zola-Tone paint with a
> few coats of acrylic paint.  We would like to strip and re-paint the
> interior.
> 
> 1. What is best way to strip the paint off the skin?  Stripeze?
> 
> 2. Should we just strip the acrylic paint and paint over the original
> paint or should we strip it all of the paint off the skin?
> 
> 3. What type of paint is recommended once the paint is stripped?
> 
> 4.  Should we paint prior to re-installing the skin, or should we paint
> once the skin is re-installed?
> 
> Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Kevin & Valerie Chop
> #5585
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 22:32:10 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Surfing Safari 1969

Hi Chris and Monica,

I've been at a '69 Safari 23 for a couple of years now and have done a lot
of stuff.  I'm in the process of putting the furniture back into the unit.
Many pieces will have to be replaced and I'll use the existing for patterns.
I think you are right about not being able to match the original '69
material.  Nor, do I think you really want to as it was pretty poor quality
stuff.

Hopefully, your running gear, etc. is OK.  Is it a tandem or single axle?
According to Andy at Inland RV, '69 was a transition year for torsion axles.
Early '69 will deteriorate (as mine did) and later will last forever if not
abused.  Mine had the 5 degree up without full load, so I'm now replacing
the axle with a modern Dexter rated 10% higher in weight, larger drums and
oval brake magnets along with a parking brake.  I'll try to have my axle
mounted later this summer and can fill you in on my progress if you would
like.

Don't know where you bought your unit, but if it's in a humid area like NC,
FL, or CA, it likely has substantial deteriorated floor.  It's typical for
the water to run from the top of the bumper hatch lid into the floor across
the entire rear and rot the floor out.  Very difficult to see, but  you can
reach up between the cross brace and the holding tank housing  to feel the
areas  you can't see from the accessory hatch.  Typically, all this stuff is
hidden by the plumbing and the battery mount.

I had to remove the entire interior to get at all damaged floor, make new
interior wheel well covers, replace the plumbing with PEX, replace the water
heater, replace the holding tank cover, weld on new skid rails, new cross
brace under the rear monocoque, new mounting tabs for the holding tank
braces, new bumper hatch lid jam, new converter (Intellipower with charge
wizard), new propane tanks, etc., etc. .  .  .  Still a lot to do/go.  The
PEX was to get around the lead solder in the copper plumbing.  I get enough
lead from my Cowboy Action Shooting and reloading.

So, I bought a trashed '74 Argosy rear entry (didn't have enough learning
from the Safari) to get me camping while I finish the Safari.
Unfortunately, the effort I put into getting the Argosy road ready, could
have finished the Safari.  However, I'm in love with the tandem axles.  I'm
sure there will be several more SOB travel trailers in my future before the
Safari is finished.  Most likely just to show off at VAC events! :)  The '02
Ford super duty crew cab power stroke diesel 4X4 is my puller and a Hensley
is the go between.  Really over kill for a 23 foot, but in my senior
moments, I dream of a 27 footer.

Possibly you were lucky and someone else already did the difficult task of
replacing the floor, the holding tank housing, the holding tank braces, and
other typical restorations or you bought a unit that lived only in the high
deserts and was properly winterized.

My unit came out of Dade, FL and must have been submerged several times.
Being new to Airstream and eager, I bought without real knowledge of what I
was getting into.  Yes, I did learn a lot from the list, but mostly from
personal experience and a mentor Harvey Barlow.  Can't tell you how much he
kept me encouraged to continue the restoration when things seemed
impossible.   We had a constant flow of digital camera images to help
understand what the problem was and how to fix it!

A service manual is available that illustrates lots of stuff (not the
owner's manual) from Secretarial Services for about $70. Not a great photo
copy, but it do get the job done.   Don't recall the specific address, but
the service manual is the bible you will need.  The list provides all the
information you'll need to get the jobs done.  Just ask and you'll get a
dozen answers.  Just remember that each restorer has gained specific
knowledge and it may not apply to your model or situation.

So, I'm around listening to your successes and will apply them to my
restoration.  Who knows,  you may be the one restorer who gets my unit on
the road! :)  Naw, too many on the list have helped me for the past several
years to get a lot of near impossible projects completed.

Good luck with your baby!

                                                        '69 Safari, Joy

joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net
                                                         Scottsburg, VA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:06:04 -0700
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Door Hinge Question

Tom,

Thanks, you're probably right. The more I think about it, most of the "easy"
projects I envision turn out to be considerably more complex. That includes
my '66 GT -- I thought it would simply take elbow grease and a little TLC -
how naive I was!

Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 04 22:50:04 -0700
From: Roy Lashway <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums

One persons opinion.   I do not think it critical  that hub and drum are 
balanced. Tire and wheel yes.

Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610     VAC
rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
   (polishing report included)  

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #184
*************************


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