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VAL Digest V1 #174



VAL Digest            Monday, March 1 2004            Volume 01 : Number 174




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #172 - Trailer wheel balancing?
[VAL] Re: Spare Tire Holder
Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
[VAL] Source of gas lantern or light
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL water heater under bed
[VAL] Rear tire Spare
RE: [VAL] Re: VAL water heater under bed
[VAL] Tub Removal
Re: [VAL] Tub Removal
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL water heater under bed
Re: [VAL] Tub Removal
Re: [VAL] Re: Spare Tire Holder

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Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 23:54:57 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #172 - Trailer wheel balancing?

"how important is hub and drum balancing?"
All wheels on any highway vehicle (anything that will be run over 25 or
30 mph) should be balanced.
Trailer wheels, being on a rigid axle (they won't turn from side to
side), cannot wobble side-to-side, so static balancing is OK.
Out of balance wheels will "hop," which wears the suspension and shocks,
shakes the trailer and wears the tires unevenly. Severe hop will
cyclically reduce the adhesion of the tire to the road. It can even lift
the tire off the road if it is bad enough; however if it was that bad I'd
suspect either a defective tire or a big hunk of mud stuck to the inside
of the wheel rim.
Dynamic (spin) balancing is necessary only on swiveling steering wheels.
It is just fine on all wheels - it's how racing and aircraft wheels/tires
are balanced.

"short of sending my hubs, tires and wheels to california, where would a
guy get this done?"
Any tire shop or wheel and alignment shop should be able to balance
trailer wheels. There is nothing distinctive about trailer wheels. They
are like light truck wheels of similar design. If you don't want to take
your trailer to the shop, just take the wheels off the hubs with the
trailer on solid, stable jack stands of suitable capacity and height and
take them to the shop. As Dr. J mentions, heavy truck tires are balanced
on the truck like service stations did with car wheels 30+ years ago.

As the hub and drum are cast in one piece (on most trailer axles) it will
be balanced in unit. It should have come balanced from the manufacturer
when new. If the drum has been turned (refinished inside) it should
remain in balance as the small amount of iron that is cut off will be
even all the way around. I cannot imagine that a drum would be enough out
of balance to be worth bothering with unless a welded-on balance weight
(used on many kinds of drums) has come off. If the drum is very much out
of balance it will be evident if the wheel is removed. Make sure the
brake shoes are not dragging. The bearings should have a trace of play in
them. If the drum is spun with the hand, see if it stops in the same
place every time. If it does, or worse turns on its own to one angle and
then goes back and forth like a pendulum there is a real problem with the
drum. I've never seen a vehicle drum or disc that did that way (like a
bicycle wheel that is held off the ground - they are almost always out of
balance and are very free turning; see Joy's description of balancing a
motorcycle wheel, below).
The wheel and tire may be balanced off the hub on a static (bubble)
balancer or on a dynamic (spin) balancer. The wheel should be balanced
already when it came from the wheel manufacturer when new. Anything that
would cause the wheel itself to go out of balance would ruin the wheel.
Just make sure it is clean of all dirt, tar, stuck-on rocks, etc., which
is common on the back side of the wheel.

High quality tires generally require less weights to balance. I used to
run Michelin XAs tires and they were within 1/4 ounce of true (the tire
needed only 1/4 oz. to balance it to "0" on the balancing machine, which
machine's book said was good to 120 mph. Later I put a set of lower
quality American brand tires on and two of them required 4 ounces of
weights each. That means the casing/tread had quite thick and thin spots.
They also were eccentric, which cannot be cured with balancing. Bleah!
Al

> 
> Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 11:24:18 -0700
> From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
> 
> hello everyone
> i need your help again. upon purchasing my AS, i called my local AS
dealer (windish rv) and when i told them the year of my trailer, they
referred me to inland rv in california. i have purchased a number of
items from inland and i have found them to be professional and helpful.
within their web  site, they have a pictorial and demo of wheel balancing
using a static wheel balance. not only do they show the tire and wheel
balancing but also they balance the hub and drum assembly while mounted
to the wheel and tire. i again called my local airstream dealer and they
said they did not even have the ability to balance the wheels and tires,
much less the hub and drum. my question is:
> 
> how important is hub and drum balancing?
> does it need to be done?
> short of sending my hubs, tires and wheels to california, where would a
guy get this done?
> 
> my take on the inland rv site is that it is absolutely necessary but i
would like another opinion.
> 
> thanks for your help
> harry truitt
> franktown co
> 66 safari
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 11:48:56 -0700
> From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
> 
> Harry:
> 
>    Look in the local Yellow Pages under "tire dealers". 
> There are perhaps 6 pages of Denver area tire dealers who should be
able to balance your trailer wheels/tires on their high speed balancing
equipment.  Ask if they leave the wheel on the hub & trailer, or dismount
it, to balance it if balancing the hub is of concern to you.   
> Fred in Denver
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 14:02:54 -0500
> From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
> 
> Hi Fred and Harry,
> 
> Don't look in on the list very often, but what I read of this thread
prompted me to suggest a look at the Inland RV web site.  I haven't been
there for quite a while, but some time ago it stated that typical spin
balance use for auto tires/wheels doesn't do the job for Airstream
wheels.
> 
> Need to have the entire drum wheel balanced as a unit and keep the
positions marked for assembly.  When you see the pictures on the web
site, you'll understand more than any words I can write.
> 
> Great info on using substandard rims, etc.
> 
> The vibration damage to the monocoque from running out of balance
rolling gear is substantial!  Somewhat akin to running bad torsion axles.
> 
> Regards, 
>  '69
> Safari, Joy

> >
> >BTW, I balanced my motorcycle tires/rim combo using the axle and
allowing the total to rotate freely to give me the heavy point.  Hmmm, it
there an axle from the old installation about to become part of a balance
setup?
> >
> >                                                        Regards, 
> '69 Safari,
> >Joy

> From: Rob Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
> 
> Harry,
> 
> We called all over the greater Denver area, multiple tire stores 
> told us 
> that spin balancing on the trailer requires old equipment that they 
> 
> don't have anymore 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 09:59:36 -0500
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Spare Tire Holder

Hey Bobby,

Check with Airstream. They mount the spares under the A frame and you 
might be able to buy one from them.

Patti

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Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:27:30 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment

See ? save a $ and just get the wax.....

Daze

Toby Folwick wrote:

> a note on lemon oil - from what I've read - it
> contains ammonia which would dry things out - 
> 
> a side note - Howard's Feed-n-wax is orange oil,
> carnauba wax and beeswax.
> 
> Toby
> 
> --- Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> 
>>David,
>>
>>I'd try a fine steel wool with lemon oil. Has worked
>>well for me.
>>
>>Paul Waddell
>>WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
>>66 Overlander
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "David Pfeffer" <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
>>To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>>Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 11:07 AM
>>Subject: [VAL] Wood Treatment
>>
>>
>>
>>>Folks:
>>>
>>>Just picked up a '68 Overlander with a blonde or
>>
>>light interior, it's been
>>
>>>sitting, untouched for over 15 years.  Can someone
>>
>>recommend a method for
>>
>>>cleaning and treating the wood?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>David Pfeffer
>>>
>>>
>>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>>>When replying to a message. please delete all
>>
>>unnecessary original text
>>
>>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format,
>>
>>please go to
>>
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
>>
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> 
>>When replying to a message. please delete all
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>>
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>>
> 
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> 
>>
> 
> 
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 11:09:01 -0600
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Source of gas lantern or light

Still diving this website as it has so much.
if you are looking for a more modern gas lite than the old Humphreys of the 50s
and 60s or earlier?   take a look at this
http://tinyurl.com/2tbj5

fwiw
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton,  chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net  Houston, TX
WBCCI/WDCU #1130  VAC   S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign   '02 E350 SD PSD, Prodigy, Pullrite
- ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
.

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Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 15:02:54 -0500
From: "nickruthwarren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL water heater under bed

Thank-you all.

After reading your replies, I took a good long look under the bed again.
The PO replaced all the plumbing and it looks like he may have put a new
pressure valve on too, it all looks very well done, especially now I have an
inkling as to what I am looking at!  I shall have my RV Shop look at the
valve/heater when it's out of the barn and then make a descion as to what to
do.

Scott,  have you been sleeping over the original Attwod for those decades?


Ruth Warren.
A slightly less nervous newbie.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Feb 04 12:28:20 -0700
From: Roy Lashway <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Rear tire Spare

Adding a rear spare tire will add about 100lbs to the bumper and  it is a 
good idea to brace up the rear bumper by welding on some additional 
structural support.  Not so much for the extra weight but because of the 
stress from the flexing of the tire, etc. when on the road.  One can 
compensate for the loss of hitch weight (if there be any) by using  an 
equalizer hitch or adding weight up front if necessary.  Be sure and 
actually determine hitch weight before making any decisions.  When I 
considered adding a rear spare  to my '56 Bubble I found that my tongue 
weight was100 plus lbs to much so the  spare was going to solve two 
problems.  Even tho a light weight trailer at 2500 lbs I still added the 
Reese Distribution hitch and maybe went a little overboard adding the 
dual cam sway control system.

Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610     VAC
rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx.com
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
   (polishing report included)  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 15:21:24 -0500
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Re: VAL water heater under bed

Ruth,
I slept over the water heater in my '60 many years.  Should be no gas
leakage as long as the unit was installed properly.  The water heater
cabinet is sealed from the interior of the camper.  It is important that the
seal remains intact.  The place to watch out for is where the wiring and gas
line go from the camper to the heater.  That area should be sealed with some
sort of sealant.  If you are going to replace the unit my preference is to
get a unit with electronic ignition vice one that uses a pilot light.  That
way there is no flame present while the unit is not operating.  My $.02
worth.
Pete

Thank-you all.

After reading your replies, I took a good long look under the bed again.
The PO replaced all the plumbing and it looks like he may have put a new
pressure valve on too, it all looks very well done, especially now I have an
inkling as to what I am looking at!  I shall have my RV Shop look at the
valve/heater when it's out of the barn and then make a descion as to what to
do.

Scott,  have you been sleeping over the original Attwod for those decades?


Ruth Warren.
A slightly less nervous newbie.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 14:41:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Rapa <steverapa@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Tub Removal

All,
I am thinking of removing the tub from my 1963
TradeWind. I have some wet rot taking place under the
tub and rear sink area. I was thinking, once I remove
the tub, I would use GIT ROT to repair the floor.
1) Has anyone used this GIT ROT stuff, and how does it
work?
2) How do you, and how difficult is it to take out the
tub?
3) Any recommendations as to what I should do?
Thanks,
Steve 1963 Tradewind
Just got my WBCCI number today #1697

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 16:45:02 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tub Removal

Hi Steve,
I had to remove the tub in my '59 Trade Wind and encountered a few obstacles
myself. The bath cabinet needs to be removed so that the tub can slide out
of the channel riveted to the curved wall. After doing this, mine still
wouldn't come out. There was some fiberglas material that was on the
underside of the tub that was wet when the tub was put in and this was stuck
to the floor. I had to use a metal yardstick to get in there and pry up the
tub.

Good luck with your restoration.

Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT 

on 2/29/04 3:41 PM, Steve Rapa at steverapa@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:

> All,
> I am thinking of removing the tub from my 1963
> TradeWind. I have some wet rot taking place under the
> tub and rear sink area. I was thinking, once I remove
> the tub, I would use GIT ROT to repair the floor.
> 1) Has anyone used this GIT ROT stuff, and how does it
> work?
> 2) How do you, and how difficult is it to take out the
> tub?
> 3) Any recommendations as to what I should do?
> Thanks,
> Steve 1963 Tradewind
> Just got my WBCCI number today #1697
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 15:08:12 -0500
From: "nickruthwarren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL water heater under bed

Thank-you all for your replies.

I have had a good long look under the bed again and it looks like the PO may
have put a new valve on the heater when he re-did the plumbing.  It all
looks very tidy anyway, especially now that I have an inkling as to what I'm
lookng for/at.  I shall have the RV Shop look at it once it's out of the
barn and then make a decsion as to what to do.

Scott, have you been sleeping over the original Atwood for those decades you
mentioned?

Many Thanks,
Ruth Warren.
A less nervous newbie.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 21:00:49 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tub Removal

Hey Steve ,
  The bathtub isnt bad to remove once you get the drain unscrewed , pretty much
like a home type tub drain (its taken a year for me to get mine ready to put the
tub back in , so my memory fades ) Brad is right about the bath cabinet making
it easier to get out , I drilled the rivets on the channel but was happy to have
extra room to maneuver it .
      As far as git rot goes , heres the word from a VALister that knows , I
saved the address from one of his postings (thanks , Jim ! )

 "Why would you want to buy Rid Rot ajmnd pay 12 prices to get a brand name???
Try Fiber Glass Coatings Inc.
3201 28 St North
St. Petersburg FL 33713
Phone(800)272-7890
e-mail: sales@xxxxxxxxxx.com <A HREF="WWW.fgci.com">WWW.fgci.com</A>
1-1pentrating Epoxy
Qt kit$19.90
1gal kit$61.00
These are last years prices this stuff is the same as Rid Rot no fancy name
or price.
Jim Smirh (( Who has no intrest in this company)) "

Hope it helps ,
Chris Elliott 63 flying cloud



Brad Norgaard wrote:

> Hi Steve,
> I had to remove the tub in my '59 Trade Wind and encountered a few obstacles
> myself. The bath cabinet needs to be removed so that the tub can slide out
> of the channel riveted to the curved wall. After doing this, mine still
> wouldn't come out. There was some fiberglas material that was on the
> underside of the tub that was wet when the tub was put in and this was stuck
> to the floor. I had to use a metal yardstick to get in there and pry up the
> tub.
>
> Good luck with your restoration.
>
> Brad Norgaard

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 21:43:46 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Spare Tire Holder

Patti
Thanks. I didn't really think about contacting them because on my trailer
there is an area under the trailer just aft of the trailer tongue that is
where the spare tire is supposed to be kept. And I just assumed that the newer
Airstreams have them in a different location now, but it may be worth checking
into. I'm tired of carrying it in the Suburban, then having to store it when
not traveling. If I had the correct mount/holder for it then I could just
leave it under the trailer.
Since you have been dealing with the factory folks.
Do you have a good number and contact that I could call?
Thanks
Bobby
  ----- Original Message -----
  Wrom: YOQKEDOTWFAOBUZXUWLSZLKBRNVWWCUFPEGAUTFJMVRESKPNKMBIPB
  To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
  Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 9:59 AM
  Subject: [VAL] Re: Spare Tire Holder


  Hey Bobby,

  Check with Airstream. They mount the spares under the A frame and you
  might be able to buy one from them.

  Patti

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------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #174
*************************


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