The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #17
VAL Digest Friday, September 26 2003 Volume 01 : Number 017
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
[VAL] Fw: Argosy AC Installation Photos
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
[VAL] VAC Want Ads
Re: [VAL] VAC Want Ads
[VAL] Site problems
[VAL] Photogallery
RE: [VAL] Fw: Argosy AC Installation Photos
Re: [VAL] Fw: Argosy AC Installation Photos
[VAL] VAC Classifieds
[VAL] Polishing Wizards... HELP!
Re: [VAL] Polishing Wizards... HELP!
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #15
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
[VAL] VAC Classifieds
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] VAC Classifieds
Re: [VAL] VAC Classifieds
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 01:04:22 -0400
From: "T o m :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Jo Ann,
You used SCOTCH BRITE pads on your window?
Have you ever seen the cutting edges on those types of pads? They are not
meant for glass and most likely you now can see 'rings' or 'halos' at night
when light shines through them.
Also, if you used the Scotch Brite pads on aluminum - well you scratched
that surface too. And neither the glass nor the metal will 'heal' itself of
the marks.
Use a not marking (softer than the material you are working on) scraper such
as hard wood scrap beveled into a scraper, etc. But never would I use
Scotch Brite pads unless my intent was to intentionally leave a design in
metal or glass. And you can make decorations on metal with a small piece of
Scotch Brite spinning fastly under a rubber sanding pad attached to a drill
motor.
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
> I'd got to admit I scoffed (quietly) about the mineral spirits. Then I
> gave it a second try after noticing that Daisy had specified "patiently
> applied". The one dang tool I didn't have in my tool box - patience.
> But I tried real hard and used some green Scotch bite pads and a
> plastic paint scraper and kept at it and in a mere 2 hrs had removed
> the globbed up silicone from the rear window!
> Thanks Daisy. I'm happy that I can still learn.
> Jo Ann
> On Tuesday, September 23, 2003, at 06:50 PM, Daisy Welch wrote:
> >
> > Mineral spirits, liberallyand patiently applied, will soften silicone
> > and make it let go.
> >
> > Daisy
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:55:14 -0600
From: Rob Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Joann,
Permatex "Gasket Remover" works in minutes. In my experience it takes two
applications to get it all.
Rob Davis
'64 GT, #1824, VAC
Joann Wheatley wrote:
"...in a mere 2 hrs had removed the globbed up silicone from the rear
window!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 09:30:49 EDT
From: JPPOLLY@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
I am wondering if "mineral spirits patiently applied " might mean a cloth
saturated and applied with plastic wrap over it??? and left to soften the
silicone? I have one window that needs to have this treatment on the GT.
Just Plain Polly
WBCCI 71113
1964 Globetrotter
1968 Sovereign
1974 Sovereign
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:43:28 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Easy, Big Fella. The scotch pad wasn't used on the glass and I was
going for a "DeLorean" look on the Al frame which is so pitted that the
"satin finish" is about 100% better. The tiny pieces I used on the
silicon were dipped in mineral spirits and then I buffed it just enough
to get more saturation of the liquid + the plastic scraper. All
followed by the pads dipped in 3M Al polish and then cloth and polish.
Looks good. I can't put lipstick on using the window frame for a mirror
but I quit wearing that 30 yrs ago anyway. The management thanks you
for your concern.
Jo Ann
On Wednesday, September 24, 2003, at 10:04 PM, T o m :-)) wrote:
> Jo Ann,
>
> You used SCOTCH BRITE pads on your window?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:49:08 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Will get some, Rob. I have developed a true vendetta against silicone
sealer.
On Wednesday, September 24, 2003, at 11:55 PM, Rob Davis wrote:
> Permatex "Gasket Remover" works in minutes. In my experience it takes
> two
> applications to get it all.
> Rob Davis
> '
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 15:42:08 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Fw: Argosy AC Installation Photos
I received the following message from Richard Pitt. I have since informed him
that it is necessary only to be a member of the Vintage Airstream E-Mail List
in order to upload photos, and have opened an account for him and uploaded his
pictures. You can see them on the photo site at
http://www.tompatterson.com/VALgallery/
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: RCPitt1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
To: tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 3:05 PM
Subject: Argosy AC Installation Photos
Hello Mr. Patterson,
I read your post today in the VAL concerning posting photos on your new
photo gallery and thought that I would send you three shots of the A/C
installation I completed this summer in my 1973 Argosy 20 ft. trailer I know
that the topic of adding A/C units has come up from time to time this summer.
Since I'm not a VAC member, I don't think that I could post the pictures
directly to your new site but, if you like, you may do so.
In my case, I didn't want the expense of a roof-mounted RV A/C unit, nor
did I want to lose one of my two roof vents. I also didn't want to permanently
change the construction of the Argosy. The interior window screen has been
removed and stored. In its place is a piece of 16 ga stainless steel with an
opening slightly larger than the 5200 btu window air conditioner I bought for
this project. The A/C units rides in the tow vehicle and is held in place,
when needed, with lever-operated clamps (no tools). I simply lift it into
place and my wife, inside the camper, locks the six clamps. There's also a 1/4
dia. steel rod that runs from the outboard edge of the A/C to the juncture of
the camper rear with the storage area at the bumper. Pieces of 1/4 in. square
AL bar with holes slightly bigger than the rod were added to the A/C unit and
the gap between camper and storage area door. For light when the A/C unit is
in place, small Plexiglass windows were added to two additional holes cut in
the stainless panel, one above and one to the side of the A/C opening. I made
a screen (from a scrap storm door screen) for the A/C opening, held by the
same clamping system, for use when the A/C is not needed.
If needed, I can convert the unit back to its original condition in about
30 minutes, leaving only the two small holes at the bumper area for the
support rod bar.
Although this summer was cool and wet, and, thus, we didn't get a real
good trial of this set-up, I think that it will be ideal for us, as it blows
right down the center of the camper, rear-to-front.
Again, you're very welcome to use this on your site if you think there
would be any interest to the group. Let me know if you have any questions.
Richard Pittenger
Troy, Ohio
1973, 20' Argosy
1983 3/4 T Suburban
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 16:55:21 -0400
From: "T o m :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Has anyone here ever tried using a nylon bristle wheel to get the corrosion
out of those pits you described? A nylon bristle brush is round and it has
a mandrel to fit on to a drill motor. The nylon bristles don't scratch the
aluminum as they are softer. If you rush to fast the nylon will burn and
darken the aluminum but at least it won't eat it. ;)
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
: Easy, Big Fella. The scotch pad wasn't used on the glass and I was
: going for a "DeLorean" look on the Al frame which is so pitted that the
: "satin finish" is about 100% better. The tiny pieces I used on the
: silicon were dipped in mineral spirits and then I buffed it just enough
: to get more saturation of the liquid + the plastic scraper. All
: followed by the pads dipped in 3M Al polish and then cloth and polish.
: Looks good. I can't put lipstick on using the window frame for a mirror
: but I quit wearing that 30 yrs ago anyway. The management thanks you
: for your concern.
: Jo Ann
:
: On Wednesday, September 24, 2003, at 10:04 PM, T o m :-)) wrote:
: > Jo Ann,
: >
: > You used SCOTCH BRITE pads on your window?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 16:55:21 -0400
From: "T o m :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Has anyone here ever tried using a nylon bristle wheel to get the corrosion
out of those pits you described? A nylon bristle brush is round and it has
a mandrel to fit on to a drill motor. The nylon bristles don't scratch the
aluminum as they are softer. If you rush to fast the nylon will burn and
darken the aluminum but at least it won't eat it. ;)
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
: Easy, Big Fella. The scotch pad wasn't used on the glass and I was
: going for a "DeLorean" look on the Al frame which is so pitted that the
: "satin finish" is about 100% better. The tiny pieces I used on the
: silicon were dipped in mineral spirits and then I buffed it just enough
: to get more saturation of the liquid + the plastic scraper. All
: followed by the pads dipped in 3M Al polish and then cloth and polish.
: Looks good. I can't put lipstick on using the window frame for a mirror
: but I quit wearing that 30 yrs ago anyway. The management thanks you
: for your concern.
: Jo Ann
:
: On Wednesday, September 24, 2003, at 10:04 PM, T o m :-)) wrote:
: > Jo Ann,
: >
: > You used SCOTCH BRITE pads on your window?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 16:54:52 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] VAC Want Ads
Hey folks.
I just visited the VAC website to check out the ads as I do often. There
apparently has been substantial changes in the format and content. Anyone
know what is it the deal?
Did I miss something here?
Tom Patterson can enlighten maybe?
GQ '67 Safari (In need of his want-ad fix}
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 19:00:19 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] VAC Want Ads
Sorry Gary,
I don't have anything to do with the VAC website. You'll have to ask Toby
Folwick
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Vintage Airstream List" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 6:54 PM
Subject: [VAL] VAC Want Ads
> Hey folks.
>
> I just visited the VAC website to check out the ads as I do often. There
> apparently has been substantial changes in the format and content. Anyone
> know what is it the deal?
>
> Did I miss something here?
>
> Tom Patterson can enlighten maybe?
>
> GQ '67 Safari (In need of his want-ad fix}
> 4082 in CA
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 19:03:06 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Site problems
The host for my site up in Dallas was down for about 3 hours. They are now
back up, but that accounts for any problems you have been having sending
messages to the mailing list.
The photo gallery is still down with some kind of problem, after the outage.
I am trying to find out what the problem is.
- -Tom
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 19:13:16 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Photogallery
The photogallery is back up now too........
- -Tom
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 17:24:49 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Fw: Argosy AC Installation Photos
Am I the only one that can't get this site to work?
Lexxy/aka/Lynn
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/
I received the following message from Richard Pitt. I have since
informed him that it is necessary only to be a member of the Vintage
Airstream E-Mail List in order to upload photos, and have opened an
account for him and uploaded his pictures. You can see them on the
photo site at http://www.tompatterson.com/VALgallery/
- -Tom
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 21:01:31 -0400
From: "T o m :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Fw: Argosy AC Installation Photos
yes
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 5:24 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] Fw: Argosy AC Installation Photos
: Am I the only one that can't get this site to work?
: Lexxy/aka/Lynn
: http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/
: photo site at http://www.tompatterson.com/VALgallery/
:
: -Tom
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 18:35:58 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] VAC Classifieds
Toby Folwick:
I don't have your email address, so have to post this.
I am concerned that you have diddled with the classified ads to the point
they are pointless.
Too many hoops to jump through, the login is totally unnecessary (unless it
really is for members only), and when I click on a "category" of listings,
I'm told it is empty. BUT, lo and behold, if I look at the "most recent"
ads, there are some that fit that category.
If the classified are for members only, that sort of defeats the purpose of
listing a unit. I thought that we'd like it if non-members purchased a unit
and then joined the club.
It wasn't broken, but when you tried to fix it, you broke it.
Please unfix it.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 18:45:01 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com>
Subject: [VAL] Polishing Wizards... HELP!
I need some help!!
I am polishing my '71 Safari using Nuvite products. I am starting with a
compounder with 3M wool pad.
The problem is that I am getting very bad white speckles that I think is
pitting in the aluminum.
You cannot really tell its there until you compound a little and reveal it.
At it's all over the place :-(
I have tried using G6, C, and F7 on the compounder with lots of pressure,
little pressure, lots of polish, little polish, and not getting very good
results.
After I cyclo over it, the mirror finish is shown with white speckles
throughout. Very disappointing with all this hard work.
Any thoughts on getting this pitting out?
thanks
- -Tim
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 21:59:32 -0400
From: "T o m :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Polishing Wizards... HELP!
Tim,
Nylon bristle wheels for aluminum work good. But they will sort of wallow
out the pit of corrosion. Sounds like you are getting polish stuck in the
pits right now. Or is it wool from the pad?
Only way to go after the pits is either chemically or manually. Sorry, no
short answer here.
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 9:45 PM
Subject: [VAL] Polishing Wizards... HELP!
: I need some help!!
:
: I am polishing my '71 Safari using Nuvite products. I am starting with a
: compounder with 3M wool pad.
:
: The problem is that I am getting very bad white speckles that I think is
: pitting in the aluminum.
:
: You cannot really tell its there until you compound a little and reveal
it.
: At it's all over the place :-(
:
: I have tried using G6, C, and F7 on the compounder with lots of pressure,
: little pressure, lots of polish, little polish, and not getting very good
: results.
:
: After I cyclo over it, the mirror finish is shown with white speckles
: throughout. Very disappointing with all this hard work.
:
: Any thoughts on getting this pitting out?
:
: thanks
:
: -Tim
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 22:01:52 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #15
RJ,
Thanks for the information, very helpful.
Q: Since I have already removed the belly pan would it not make sense just to pull the
body off the frame/floor to sand blast and paint the frame & then replace the floor?
Are there any draw backs to body removal vs using plywood spacers?
Q: The existing plywood is in such poor condition in the front and rear I will not beable
to use is as a template for the new floor. If I remove the body, would it be best to use
the C chanel as my template for the new floor, or is there a better way?
Q; I am planning to put a new belly pan on. I would assume I would use the old pan as a
template? How difficult is it to put on a NEW pan? Should it be "pre- bent" or .....
Q; What should I put between the frame and the new plywood floor? Fiberglass? or is there
a better material? I have also read putting styrofoam under the floor?
Q: I would like to replace one lower outer skin panel of the 1956 Caravaneer (very front
lower panel). What is my best bet? Can I find a panel of this aluminum make up? Would
Airstream have anything without plastic-coat?
Thanks
Kevin & Valerie Chop
#5585
- ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 07:29:22 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Complete Floor Replacement
> Q: How do we proceed without loosing the integrity of the
> trailer? More
> specifically, the floor appears to be connecting the shell to
> the frame,
> how can we pull out the rotted sections of floor without the
> gap closing
> between the C Channel and the frame?
As you cut and remove the floor sections, insert plywood blocks to keep
the C Channel up off the frame. Here's an image from the archives that
shows how it's done:
http://vintageairstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/WorldTraveler800/f
looroffheater.jpg
>
> Q: Secondly, on our 1976 tradewind, when removing parts of
> the floor the
> seams were bolted down with a floor type bolts/screws with a phillips
> type head for removal. This unit has just a flat head, how do
> I remove
> and what do I replace them with???
They are most likely span bolts (a carriage type bolt - no slot).
Access to the nut is from the bottom (requires belly skin removal). If
your belly skin is in great shape and you don't want to disturb it, an
alternative is to test locate the frames (see
http://vintageairstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/59WorldTraveler.ht
ml for typical '50s layout) and then remove the plywood between the
frames with a circular saw and remove the nuts from above.
What works good to reinstall the flooring is self-tapping, large head
self-countersinking 1/4" dia sheathing screws. At $0.38 each, they
aren't cheap, but you don't need that many. Requires drilling the frame
to install. Don't know if there is a web source for them (I'll check
later), and they aren't a Home Despot item.
Best of luck,
RJ
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 20:23:01 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
There are also nylon like bristle wheels and cup assemblies that have
abrasive in the bristles. They will put a shine on rust pitted steel,
they would eat aluminum. Be careful to not apply them to aluminum unless
you want to remove it. Polishing down to level pits means removing all
the good metal down to the depth of the pits. Can leave little for
holding in the windows.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 19:39:38 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] VAC Classifieds
In my not-so-humble opinion, the VAC Classified ad site was the BEST
classified site on the web, bar none. I speak as one who views and uses
a lot of the classified ad sites.
IT WAS NOT BROKEN!! WHO DECIDED TO "FIX" IT, AND WHY??
These changes are NOT an improvement!!! PLEASE put it back the way it
was!!!!!
Best regards,
Rik Beeson
VAC, WBCCI
Trailers
Motorhomes
etc.
etc.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 23:25:19 -0400
From: "T o m :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
As I said, they wallow out the pit when they remove the corrosion.
Tom
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
: There are also nylon like bristle wheels and cup assemblies that have
: abrasive in the bristles. They will put a shine on rust pitted steel,
: they would eat aluminum. Be careful to not apply them to aluminum unless
: you want to remove it. Polishing down to level pits means removing all
: the good metal down to the depth of the pits. Can leave little for
: holding in the windows.
:
: Gerald J.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 22:32:48 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] VAC Classifieds
Hey Folks,
This is the Vintage Airstream List, which is NOT affiliated with the Vintage
Airstream Club. Any venting here on this list
does nothing to resolve any problems which you may feel exist with the VAC
website, so lets please drop the topic.
I might add however, that to the best of my knowledge the VAC website is
still undergoing changes. It might serve everyones purposes better if you
offered constructive, rather than destructive criticism. In any event
though, such criticism and comments should be directed towards the VAC. I
believe that you can obtain contact information from their website.
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rik & Susan Beeson" <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 9:39 PM
Subject: [VAL] VAC Classifieds
> In my not-so-humble opinion, the VAC Classified ad site was the BEST
> classified site on the web, bar none. I speak as one who views and uses
> a lot of the classified ad sites.
>
> IT WAS NOT BROKEN!! WHO DECIDED TO "FIX" IT, AND WHY??
>
> These changes are NOT an improvement!!! PLEASE put it back the way it
> was!!!!!
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rik Beeson
> VAC, WBCCI
> Trailers
> Motorhomes
> etc.
> etc.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 20:47:21 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] VAC Classifieds
Sorry, Tom, but since the list changed, and the site changed, there is no
way to reach Toby Folwick via the VAC website. He isn't an elected officer,
nor a region representative, so this List is it, if he reads it.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:43:28 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Easy, Big Fella. The scotch pad wasn't used on the glass and I was
going for a "DeLorean" look on the Al frame which is so pitted that the
"satin finish" is about 100% better. The tiny pieces I used on the
silicon were dipped in mineral spirits and then I buffed it just enough
to get more saturation of the liquid + the plastic scraper. All
followed by the pads dipped in 3M Al polish and then cloth and polish.
Looks good. I can't put lipstick on using the window frame for a mirror
but I quit wearing that 30 yrs ago anyway. The management thanks you
for your concern.
Jo Ann
On Wednesday, September 24, 2003, at 10:04 PM, T o m :-)) wrote:
> Jo Ann,
>
> You used SCOTCH BRITE pads on your window?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 00:29:14 -0400
From: "T o m :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
This is the SECOND time this post has appeared.
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joann Wheatley" <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover
: Easy, Big Fella. The scotch pad wasn't used on the glass and I was
: going for a "DeLorean" look on the Al frame which is so pitted that the
: "satin finish" is about 100% better. The tiny pieces I used on the
: silicon were dipped in mineral spirits and then I buffed it just enough
: to get more saturation of the liquid + the plastic scraper. All
: followed by the pads dipped in 3M Al polish and then cloth and polish.
: Looks good. I can't put lipstick on using the window frame for a mirror
: but I quit wearing that 30 yrs ago anyway. The management thanks you
: for your concern.
: Jo Ann
:
: On Wednesday, September 24, 2003, at 10:04 PM, T o m :-)) wrote:
: > Jo Ann,
: >
: > You used SCOTCH BRITE pads on your window?
:
: -----------------------------------------------------------------
: When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
:
: To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
: http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
:
:
:
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #17
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