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VAL Digest V1 #166



VAL Digest          Sunday, February 22 2004          Volume 01 : Number 166




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Bargman #99 Replacement lenses
RE: [VAL] rear access door
RE: [VAL] rear access door
Re: [VAL] Bargman #99 Replacement lenses
Re: [VAL] rear access door
Re: [VAL] veneers
Re: [VAL] veneers
Re: [VAL] veneers
Re: [VAL] veneers
Re: [VAL] veneers

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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 22:20:55 -0800 (PST)
From: John Leggett <pklhead2@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Bargman #99 Replacement lenses

For those folks looking for Bargman lenses, you might contact 
Mark Schick <markschick@xxxxxxxxxx.net
who is making reproduction lenses - $25
 
Check out his auction on ebay:
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50069&item=2460790444
 
John Leggett
San Francisco
WBCCI $1154
1968 Safari 22



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Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 08:22:15 -0700
From: "JP Polly" <jppolly@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] rear access door

I tried to find a replacement for a rear access door with no luck and
finally had one made by a company that does a lot of work on aircraft as
well as other things and they did a great job.  I drew up a plan for them
and took in one of the other access doors so they could see how they were
fabricated.  I put on two cam locks instead of the original one to add some
security so I would not lose it again.  The aluminum is a bit different
than the original but I don't mind that, it looks good to me and is another
reminder that this is a vintage model with a history.
Polly in CO 
WBCCI 7113
1964 GT


> [Original Message]
> From: M Tate <firebirdesprit@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Date: 2/19/04 7:26:51 PM
> Subject: [VAL] rear access door
>
> Good evening all,
> I wonder if anyone has had to replace an access door.
> I have a 65 Overlander that needs a rear access door,
> and I am having a really hard time getting a response
> from the company I ordered it from about 5 weeks ago.
> If anyone has any suggestions, they would be greatly
> appreciated. I realize that it will most likely have
> to be fabricated, this is where I am now and cannot
> get any answer as to when I can expect my door, even
> though my credit card has been charged. I think I
> might get the card company involved. Sorry to run on,
> just kinda frustrated. Thanks to all.
>
> =====
> Mark, Pennie and Rachel
> '65 Overlander Land Yacht
>
> __________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 10:31:45 -0500
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] rear access door

I have a rear access door from a "68 Ambassador available.  Please contact
me off list if you are interested.
Pete

- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of JP Polly
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 10:22 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] rear access door


I tried to find a replacement for a rear access door with no luck and
finally had one made by a company that does a lot of work on aircraft as
well as other things and they did a great job.  I drew up a plan for them
and took in one of the other access doors so they could see how they were
fabricated.  I put on two cam locks instead of the original one to add some
security so I would not lose it again.  The aluminum is a bit different
than the original but I don't mind that, it looks good to me and is another
reminder that this is a vintage model with a history.
Polly in CO
WBCCI 7113
1964 GT


> [Original Message]
> From: M Tate <firebirdesprit@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Date: 2/19/04 7:26:51 PM
> Subject: [VAL] rear access door
>
> Good evening all,
> I wonder if anyone has had to replace an access door.
> I have a 65 Overlander that needs a rear access door,
> and I am having a really hard time getting a response
> from the company I ordered it from about 5 weeks ago.
> If anyone has any suggestions, they would be greatly
> appreciated. I realize that it will most likely have
> to be fabricated, this is where I am now and cannot
> get any answer as to when I can expect my door, even
> though my credit card has been charged. I think I
> might get the card company involved. Sorry to run on,
> just kinda frustrated. Thanks to all.
>
> =====
> Mark, Pennie and Rachel

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 11:59:37 -0500
From: "chyde" <brownhyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bargman #99 Replacement lenses

> For those folks looking for Bargman lenses, you might contact
> Mark Schick <markschick@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> who is making reproduction lenses - $25


John,
Have you or anyone else on the list purchased any of these lenses?  They
have been on ebay for a while. I sent the guy a request for some better
photos along with a couple of questions. He never responded, so I was
wondering about the quality.
Colin

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Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 12:18:50 -0600
From: John Anderson <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] rear access door

I bought a replacement rear access door for my '66 Sovereign from Inland 
RV about 10 years ago or so. It took a little while to get it; don't 
know if had to be fabricated or not. The door was a satisfactory 
replacement.

John


>>I wonder if anyone has had to replace an access door.
>>I have a 65 Overlander that needs a rear access door,
>>and I am having a really hard time getting a response
>>from the company I ordered it from about 5 weeks ago.
>>If anyone has any suggestions, they would be greatly
>>appreciated. 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 19:56:13 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] veneers

I keep thinking that re - veneering might be the way to refinish rather than
replacing all or some of my cabinets . Maybe less work , maybe less loot , too
?  Maybe get creative , a la`   " The  Silver Abaltross "  (are you there Jim
Smith ? I guess these questions are to you ? )
    Anyone know where to get good veneer wood cheap ? Whats the tricks of the
trade ? And the tools ?
Chris Elliott 63 flying cloud

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Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 20:03:34 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] veneers

Fine Woodworking for September/October 1995 has an article on applying
veneer to a table top. Probably very informative reading.

Constantines (www.constantines.com) has been a long time supplier of a
wide selection of veneers. Not necessarily low cost, but an extensive
collection. Mostly the tools are simple as the veneer is so thin a
utility knife is plenty tool for cutting. Gluing is the trick,
especially with traditional glues where every square mm of the veneer
needs to be pressed against the wood. I don't think ordinary contact
adhesives as used for formica counter tops (though formica is a
possibility for some surfaces) will work well with thin wood veneers
because the adhesive is likely to penetrate too far through the veneer
to the outer surface making later finishing irregular because of the
grain filled with contact cement. Maybe if the back side of the veneer
was sealed with the front filler and finish, it would prevent the
contact cement from bleeding through. And then maybe the veneer could be
treated more like formica with contact cement and rolling it into place
with a J roller.

For edges there are a number of products in rolls that are applied with
heat to hide the edges of plywood and veneering projects. A household
iron is supposed to work for those.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

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Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 19:32:34 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] veneers

Hi all,
I've veneered several areas on my Trade Wind and only one area is giving me
fits. The mahogany veneer had a sealed thin backing to it and I used the
contact cement as you would with formica. The area that is coming loose is
the area just inside the entry door. Probably because this side of the
trailer faces the west and the walls get pretty hot in the summer. I was
just speaking with a friend in construction today about using a door skin
instead of a veneer. Also he mentioned using PL-500 for an adhesive, which
I've never heard of. I'll have to get this done before its rally time this
spring.

Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT 

on 2/21/04 5:56 PM, Chris Elliott at celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> I keep thinking that re - veneering might be the way to refinish rather than
> replacing all or some of my cabinets . Maybe less work , maybe less loot , too
> ?  Maybe get creative , a la`   " The  Silver Abaltross "  (are you there Jim
> Smith ? I guess these questions are to you ? )
> Anyone know where to get good veneer wood cheap ? Whats the tricks of the
> trade ? And the tools ?
> Chris Elliott 63 flying cloud

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 23:58:44 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] veneers

There are some veneers on the market that have a paper peel off back.I have 
never usad them nor do I eaver intend to the wood is about .100 in thick a 
coup;e of swipes with sand paper will cut through them and they are very expencive.
Using normal vaneers with contact cement is chancy at best most modern 
vaneers are 
1/32in. thick and wood vaneers are not perfactly flat therefore you will not 
geet good contact with the base and many of the solvents in modern finishing 
materals will cause them to release.I fave gotten away with that method so 
rarly I dont try it any more.The only times Imwent that route is when I had a 
employer who thought he knew more than I.
I realy think veneering other than spot repairs is not for the amiture.
I have made all new doors for The Silver Abaltross but the pannels are 
vaneered in a sunburst pattern with diamonds about 5in by 1in by 1/8in thick bedded 
in epoxy. 
When I do any large sheet veneeringI use epoxy laminating rerin but 1st I lay 
a layet of fiberglass cloth over the base wood to keep any defects from 
photographing through then over this I lay the veneer this goes into my veneer 
press to cure.
I personaly would descourage any one from reveneering your trailed it is a 
hell of a lot of work with many pitfalls.eaiser to replace with furniture grade 
plywood.
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 23:28:24 -0600
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] veneers

On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 23:58:44 EST, JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

>
>I personaly would descourage any one from reveneering your trailed it is a 
>hell of a lot of work with many pitfalls.eaiser to replace with furniture grade 
>plywood.

yeah but, where do you get that beautiful flame grain mahogany which was in the
'66-'68 trailers??

actually, using MDF for your room dividers, etc, you can easily apply a veneer
which will last as long as you will or will own the trailer.  Don't be
discouraged by this member's experiences.  I have done a lot of veneering and
have had little problem with it.  after all, the original panels were plywood
and plywood is nothing but a series of crossgrained veneeers.

just get a furniture book from Woodcraft which tells you how to do this,
practice with a couple of small projects, and then take on larger panels as you
gain confidence.  practice and the right tools will get you there.  

Again, you cannot buy furniture grade plywood with the veneers used in certain
periods of trailers.  if you can get it at all, it will be in very thin sheets
of veneer.

fwiw
chas
an AS mechanic in another life.
- --
Charles L Hamilton,  chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net  Houston, TX
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- ------------------RKBA!--------------------------------

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End of VAL Digest V1 #166
*************************


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