The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #156
VAL Digest Thursday, February 12 2004 Volume 01 : Number 156
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation / Oops forgot the link
Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation / Oops forgot the link
Re: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
[VAL] penetrating epoxy
[VAL] What kind of hole is there?
[VAL] What kind of hole is there?
Re: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
Re: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
Re: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
[VAL] New Orleans Campground Recommendation
Re: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
Re: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
[VAL] WBCCI Survey
[VAL] Cargo Shifting: Eaz-Lift hook-ups
Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #155 - Frame support?
Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #155 - Frame support?
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #155 - Flooring
Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
[VAL] Senior Employee historical forum/Airsteam-Jackson Center
Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
[VAL] The Good Sam Club
Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Re: [VAL] The Good Sam Club
Re: [VAL] The Good Sam Club
[VAL] re: wbcci vac
Re: [VAL] re: wbcci vac
Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
RE: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
RE: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
RE: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:23:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Ja Co <jaco7431@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
I posted a drawing of what I think the floor layout as far as how it is attached
to the "u" channel .
I did this from reading various posts not from looking at the actual procuct.
Joy would you go to the link below and scroll down to the 8th post in the thread
and peruse my drawing? Is it anywhere near correct? relative to your experiences
with a 60something and a 74 Argosy.?
Thanks
jaco
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:28:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Ja Co <jaco7431@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation / Oops forgot the link
Regarding the drawing of floor to channel. and floor to frame.
Joy, Well I forgot the link, sorry.Here it is
http://www.airstreamforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9216
jaco
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 05:10:33 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation / Oops forgot the link
Hi Ja Co,
I'm up all night this morning, kind of an insomniac. I practiced my shotgun
shell grab until I got bored and then tried to sleep. No luck! I'm into
Cowboy Action Shooting and the associated reloading of ammo. The Argosy
will house me at Pigeon Forge at the end of this month. Fortunately, it has
a modern pizo furnace that just requires electric and propane. The plumbing
is PEX and I won't worry about frozen pipes, but I'll evaluate the use of
the holding tanks with regard to weather. If the weather is really nasty,
I'll leave the RV antifreeze in the pipes.
Well, to your question. My reply is pretty wordy, so you can use the
down/delete key as you wish.
Much of the drawing is accurate, but . . . you show the bolt securing the
monocoque through the floor to the outrigger. The 1/4-20 bolt only secures
the floor to the outrigger. All bolts I encountered were bent at an angle
to prevent loosening. Another error is the skin stop. The skin usually
stops just above the floor and sometimes along the bottom edge of the floor.
This is what prevents just slipping replacement floor in place from the
outside front and rear and keeps the floor wet if the trim strip isn't
caulked. The diagram seems to view the side, not the front and rear
construction. Again, the 1/4-20 bolts only bolt the floor to the out
riggers.
IMHO, the Airstream factory did many flips of the unit during construction.
You'll see from disassembly, that the uneven frame areas under the floor
were filled with plastic wood or something like that and the entire floor
was bolted to the frame. I think cut outs were made and holding tanks, etc.
and insulation (my '69 used sprayed in polyurethane foam that was later
discontinued to the risk of formaldehyde exposure) were installed with the
frame upside down. My '74 has the pink tiger fiber stuff! :)
At the front and rear, based on the year of manufacture, an aluminum or
steel angle had one leg under the floor. As the end caps were placed,
upright of this angle would slip between the inverted "U" at the base of the
monocoque and the outer skin. Eventually, this angle was riveted with a
couple of exterior rivets at the front and real to hold the monocoque tight
to the frame. (These rows of rivets can be compromised by using two stiff
equalizer hitch torsion bars.) Later, the clinch rivets passing through the
"U" and the frame up front or a cross brace in the rear pulled everything
together and held the floor pinched between. Because the floor was
compressed by this operation, a new floor cannot be slipped into the space.
Most likely, the belly, etc. was also installed with the unit inverted. The
unit was flipped upright and the several sections that were constructed on a
jig were moved into place on the wood floor that was cut to shape. Most
likely, there was a jig to assure alignment of the monocoque on the
installed floor. The monocoque was secured to the FLOOR only with phillips
head zinc coated screws. The only direct connection to the frame is at the
front and rear.
Then, insulation was placed against the inside of the skin and held with
spray adhesive. I read where some of this adhesive is a black gunky mess.
Of course, all wiring, etc. would be installed and then the entire inner
skin. Finally, all the interior plumbing and appliances, etc. would be
installed.
The reason I've gone through all this is to point out that knowing how the
stuff went together gives restorers an opportunity to decide how to effect a
repair. Knowing that the ABS plastic drain lines include fittings that are
no longer available means that fittings must be saved and reused. Also,
even the Airstream assemblers screwed up and made poor or non-existent ABS
joints that must be corrected before final assembly. You can only get at
some of this stuff by removing the entire furniture covering the utilities.
Whew, you really got me wound up! Been out of the threads for a long time.
But, I'm driven to continue and hopefully stop before breakfast. :)
With regard to the '74 Argosy, the floor is not sandwiched between the
monocoque and the frame as it is in the '69 Safari. If I recall, the
monocoque is bolted/riveted directly to the cross frame member in the rear.
However, the up front construction didn't change and the sandwich was still
used. The floor attachment to the frame didn't change either, nor did the
water entry to the floor from failure of the owners to caulk. This Argosy
is a rear door entry and the awning directs the water from the roof to the
hinge side of the door. The faulty installation of the roof AC caused
separation of skin/body rivets and allowed water to enter and rot the floor
along the entire curb side under the shower pan. The failure to caulk the
bumper hatch jam again, allowed water to flow into the floor and rot
substantial areas. Fortunately, there is still enough floor to keep the
black water tank in position.
The '69 has the black water tank entire below the floor. The '74 Argosy has
a gray water holding tank that runs lengthwise on the street side and behind
the axle and entirely below the floor. The black water tank is above the
floor with a section that protrudes below the floor to connect the gate
valves and join the gray water tank below. The commode sits on a platform
that is supported by the tank that rests on the floor. Certainly a better
arrangement than the '69. In fact, I had thoughts of taking a corner black
water holding tank that sits above the floor with the commode on a raised
platform and dropping the outflow through the floor outside the frame, but
inside the outer skin. The existing gray water would be used as a gray
water tank. I've removed enough weight in the rear to accommodate the
hundred pounds of black water waste. The old charger weighed in at about 50
pounds and the Intelli Power replacement weighs in at less than 5 pounds.
Well, it won't happen with this '69 as I think I have two wants. Tandem
axles and black and gray water holding tanks. The Argosy has taught me the
value of both these wants. But, as with all Airstream owners, it's time to
move up to a 25-27 foot to accommodate the Mrs. and two dogs.
Regards,
'69 Safari,
Joy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 06:36:09 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
Bay Breeze a/c?
Our 1969 29' International Ambassador has the *original ARMSTRONG* a/c unit.
Armstrong *was* the original back then - don't know if it was just in our
model or not. Bay Breeze? I've never heard that one before.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 12:42 AM
Subject: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
> Just purchase a 1969 27' Overlander. It has the original Bay Breeze AC
unit
> up top. I was told by the seller that it works, kinda hard to test in 15
> degree
> weather here in Va. My plans (I know it sounds crazy) is to take the
working
> AC unit and replace it with the one on my 1966 Overlander (I like keeping
> the
> look of the original). I figure between the one thats on the 1966, the
spare
> that
> was giving to me by a fellow VAC member (thank you) and the one off the
> 1969 Overlander, I should be able to make a good one. The question is,
> What kinda hole will be left in the roof of the 1969? Will it be the
> standard
> round corner vent type hole? I figure I can fill the hole with a vent
unit.
> If I remember correctly, the guy from Fantasic Vent said they cut the
round
> corners out to be square. Any thoughts, or am I just nuts? It's O.K. to
say
> I'm nuts!
>
> Paul Waddell
> WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
> 66' Overlander
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 06:45:05 -0600
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
Hi all- I've heard mention of this stuff on the list several times.
Have made a few efforts to find at good hardware stores without luck.
Can someone give me a manufacturer's name, and perhaps an internet
address? I've got subfloor work to do as soon as the weather warms up..
Thanks,
Chris
'79 Int'l @ 31'
New WBCCI member (waiting on the vintage paperwork..)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 04:49:26 -0800 (PST)
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <wam52@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
Hey Paul,
The AC units in question are 2 piece units more commonly referred to as split systems.
The evaporator coil and the Fan blade is on inside in a decorative drip pan and the
Compressor, Condenser Coil, and the Fan Motor are outside. There should be two holes
in the roof of the trailer. One round 1" hole for the Fan motor shaft and the other
is a 2" x 4" oval hole with the 2 tubing lines for hot gas and liquid return. There
are fittings that mate the two parts together at the roof line of the trailer and are
accessed by removal of the outside AC shroud and the inside Aluminum cover that has a
screened opening for the Condenser Fan.
As I recall the oval hole should be at the very edge of the 14 x 14 vent curb flange.
I just put a sealed aluminum patch on my Tradewind after removal of the AC and since
its on top no one one sees it anyway.
Have Fun (Your Welcome)
WAM
WDCU
VAC/WBCCI 15116
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:42:34 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
Just purchase a 1969 27' Overlander. It has the original Bay Breeze AC unit
up top. I was told by the seller that it works, kinda hard to test in 15
degree
weather here in Va. My plans (I know it sounds crazy) is to take the working
AC unit and replace it with the one on my 1966 Overlander (I like keeping
the
look of the original). I figure between the one thats on the 1966, the spare
that
was giving to me by a fellow VAC member (thank you) and the one off the
1969 Overlander, I should be able to make a good one. The question is,
What kinda hole will be left in the roof of the 1969? Will it be the
standard
round corner vent type hole? I figure I can fill the hole with a vent unit.
If I remember correctly, the guy from Fantasic Vent said they cut the round
corners out to be square. Any thoughts, or am I just nuts? It's O.K. to say
I'm nuts!
Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
66' Overlande
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 04:52:47 -0800 (PST)
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <wam52@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
Hey Paul,
The AC units in question are 2 piece units more commonly referred to as split systems.
The evaporator coil and the Fan blade is on inside in a decorative drip pan and the
Compressor, Condenser Coil, and the Fan Motor are outside. There should be two holes
in the roof of the trailer. One round 1" hole for the Fan motor shaft and the other
is a 2" x 4" oval hole with the 2 tubing lines for hot gas and liquid return. There
are fittings that mate the two parts together at the roof line of the trailer and are
accessed by removal of the outside AC shroud and the inside Aluminum cover that has a
screened opening for the Condenser Fan.
As I recall the oval hole should be at the very edge of the 14 x 14 vent curb flange.
I just put a sealed aluminum patch on my Trade Wind after removal of the AC and since
its on top no one one sees it anyway.
Have Fun (Your Welcome)
WAM
VAC/WBCCI/WDCU15116
66 Trade Wind
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:42:34 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
Just purchase a 1969 27' Overlander. It has the original Bay Breeze AC unit
up top. I was told by the seller that it works, kinda hard to test in 15
degree
weather here in Va. My plans (I know it sounds crazy) is to take the working
AC unit and replace it with the one on my 1966 Overlander (I like keeping
the
look of the original). I figure between the one thats on the 1966, the spare
that
was giving to me by a fellow VAC member (thank you) and the one off the
1969 Overlander, I should be able to make a good one. The question is,
What kinda hole will be left in the roof of the 1969? Will it be the
standard
round corner vent type hole? I figure I can fill the hole with a vent unit.
If I remember correctly, the guy from Fantasic Vent said they cut the round
corners out to be square. Any thoughts, or am I just nuts? It's O.K. to say
I'm nuts!
Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
66' Overlande
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 07:40:12 -0600
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
Greetings Paul!
The original Bay Breeze Air Conditioner by Armstrong will leave either two
or three small round or oval holes rather than one large square holes as a
modern air conditioning unit would. When my original Bay Breeze Air
Conditioner was replaced in the '64 Overlander, it was necessary to cut the
14" square opening for the new air conditioner.
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC V8/4.10
Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter
V8/2.70 Final Drive)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 11:42 PM
Subject: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
> Just purchase a 1969 27' Overlander. It has the original Bay Breeze AC
unit
> up top. I was told by the seller that it works, kinda hard to test in 15
> degree
> weather here in Va. My plans (I know it sounds crazy) is to take the
working
> AC unit and replace it with the one on my 1966 Overlander (I like keeping
> the
> look of the original). I figure between the one thats on the 1966, the
spare
> that
> was giving to me by a fellow VAC member (thank you) and the one off the
> 1969 Overlander, I should be able to make a good one. The question is,
> What kinda hole will be left in the roof of the 1969? Will it be the
> standard
> round corner vent type hole? I figure I can fill the hole with a vent
unit.
> If I remember correctly, the guy from Fantasic Vent said they cut the
round
> corners out to be square. Any thoughts, or am I just nuts? It's O.K. to
say
> I'm nuts!
>
> Paul Waddell
> WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
> 66' Overlander
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:36:48 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
http://www.webslnger.com/dmwoodworker/
http://www.rotdoctor.com/test/test1.html
http://www.rotdoctor.com/L/HouseL/hQA005.html
http://www.daycreek.com/dc/asp/forum/display_message.asp?mid=1482
http://members.aol.com/t30sailor/m30teak.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Koehn" <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:45 AM
Subject: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
> Hi all- I've heard mention of this stuff on the list several times.
> Have made a few efforts to find at good hardware stores without luck.
> Can someone give me a manufacturer's name, and perhaps an internet
> address? I've got subfloor work to do as soon as the weather warms up..
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
> '79 Int'l @ 31'
> New WBCCI member (waiting on the vintage paperwork..)
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:54:48 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
The source for pinitrating epoxy that I have used is
Fiber Glass Coatings
3201 28th Street North
St Petersburg Fl 33713
Ph 1 800-272-7890
e=mail sales@xxxxxxxxxx.com
www.fgci.com
the prices are good they will ship
1qt kit(2 qts)$19.90
1gal kit(2gal)$61.00
Catalogue has a wealth of info.
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:23:01 -0500
From: "Peter Grover" <peter_grover@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] New Orleans Campground Recommendation
My wife, Star, and I will be traveling from N. E. Pennsylvania to New
Orleans, LA for a convention on March 25th - 27th 2004. We have never
camped in the New Orleans area and seek the advice of those who have. We
want to be within a ten mile radius of downtown and will be traveling with
our dog Greta. We would consider secure non-campground locations as well.
Thank you in advance for your help and, by the way, we offer overnight
parking north of Philadelphia, PA. For the top recommendation we will offer
two nights parking and a tour of the surround area. Just kidding, we do
that anyway!
Peter
Star and Peter Grover
#7790
78 Excella 31'
96 GMC Suburban
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 09:05:56 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
Penetrating epoxies are advertised in Fine Homebuilding magazine as wood
restorers.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:25:29 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
hey wam
your response on the air breeze seems to come from first hand knowledge so i
have a question for you. my 66 safari owners manual has the bay breeze
insert which leads me to think that my trailer came with the bay breeze. it
has been replaced by a PO with a fairly new coleman. there is a 1/4" tube
that goes through the wall and up to the area of the a/c. this tube is
connected to a water supply line at the sink area by way of a shut off
valve. i see no need for it and i am at a point in my restoration of needing
to remove it or leave it. did the bay breeze have any need for a water
supply? seems to me that only a swamp cooler would need such. i do not like
the idea of having a water supply to the roof area if not needed. thanks
harry
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <wam52@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 5:49 AM
Subject: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
> Hey Paul,
>
> The AC units in question are 2 piece units more commonly referred to as
split systems. The evaporator coil and the Fan blade is on inside in a
decorative drip pan and the Compressor, Condenser Coil, and the Fan Motor
are outside. There should be two holes in the roof of the trailer. One round
1" hole for the Fan motor shaft and the other is a 2" x 4" oval hole with
the 2 tubing lines for hot gas and liquid return. There are fittings that
mate the two parts together at the roof line of the trailer and are accessed
by removal of the outside AC shroud and the inside Aluminum cover that has a
screened opening for the Condenser Fan.
>
> As I recall the oval hole should be at the very edge of the 14 x 14 vent
curb flange. I just put a sealed aluminum patch on my Tradewind after
removal of the AC and since its on top no one one sees it anyway.
>
> Have Fun (Your Welcome)
>
>
> WAM
> WDCU
> VAC/WBCCI 15116
>
>
>
> Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:42:34 -0500
> From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] What kind of hole is there?
>
> Just purchase a 1969 27' Overlander. It has the original Bay Breeze AC
unit
> up top. I was told by the seller that it works, kinda hard to test in 15
> degree
> weather here in Va. My plans (I know it sounds crazy) is to take the
working
> AC unit and replace it with the one on my 1966 Overlander (I like keeping
> the
> look of the original). I figure between the one thats on the 1966, the
spare
> that
> was giving to me by a fellow VAC member (thank you) and the one off the
> 1969 Overlander, I should be able to make a good one. The question is,
> What kinda hole will be left in the roof of the 1969? Will it be the
> standard
> round corner vent type hole? I figure I can fill the hole with a vent
unit.
> If I remember correctly, the guy from Fantasic Vent said they cut the
round
> corners out to be square. Any thoughts, or am I just nuts? It's O.K. to
say
> I'm nuts!
>
> Paul Waddell
> WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
> 66' Overlande
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 11:08:57 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
All you WBCCI members, please look at the Feb 04 Blue Beret. There is a
member survey that asks for your input. Many of you have been asking for
change, this is your opportunity to be heard by those who direct the
organization. These are the people who can make change happen! Please take
the time today to voice your opinions. Don't let this opportunity pass by!
Scott Scheuermann
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:23:23 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Cargo Shifting: Eaz-Lift hook-ups
All,
I the tradition of sharing boat parts amongst others, something I
practice on an Ericson sailing list, I have today a pair of EAZ-Lift Deluxe
Quick Hook-Ups that I'd like to find a new home for. These are the ones
that have a hinged part that's held up with a wire bail. One of them has a
slightly bent base where the bolt goes through that does not seem to
interfere with its use and could be easily pounded back into shape.
As some of you my have recently read on a previous post of mine, I just
bought a neat little sandblaster and these parts were the first for me to
try it on, so they are as clean as a whistle, awaiting a new coat of silver
paint.
I presume that they came with my 1969 Caravel when bought new as I also
have the brochure along with them dated Mar. 1968.
OK, here's the deal. If you really think you could use these hook-ups
(and the very cool original brochure) for your trailer and don't want them
just for resale, and if you're the first to respond, I'll send them your way
for the cost of the postage.
Send me your postal address after confirmation of getting them and
that's almost all you need to do.
When you get them and are happy with what you got, look for the postage
on the box and send me that cost only. My return address will be plainly
marked. I'll not bug you for the postage, that'll be your job to remember.
Good luck,
Glyn
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 11:37:50 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
Hi Ja Co,
It's the morning after and I had one wide awake observation. I neglected to
tell you that I put new galvanized 1/4-20 bolts at the ends of the
outriggers. Rather than leave the assembly as done by Airstream, I
sandwiched the floor between the aluminum monocoque and the outrigger. It's
possible that the engineers planned for the floor flex to prevent breaking
the outrigger weld and/or damage to the monocoque.
Like the replacement wheel well interior covers I constructed from sheet
metal to replace the OEM plastic that disintegrated due to age, I'm informed
that the sheet metal is too rigid and may damage the monocoque. The sheet
metal can't dissipate the vibration like the ABS plastic.
'69 Safari, Joy
Subject: Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
> I posted a drawing of what I think the floor layout as far as how it is
attached to the "u" channel .
> I did this from reading various posts not from looking at the actual
procuct.
>
> Joy would you go to the link below and scroll down to the 8th post in the
thread and peruse my drawing? Is it anywhere near correct? relative to your
experiences with a 60something and a 74 Argosy.?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 10:53:38 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #155 - Frame support?
Does the frame support the body or does the body support the frame?
Al
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Frame Separation
................................
>Those that bolt the floor to the frame and
> those that
> screw the monocoque to the floor.
.................................
>
> Regards,
> '69 Safari,
> Joy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:08:31 -0500
From: <nicholas_s_novia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
Hmm...mine too are crumbling every time I try and move them. I wonder if a
very thin guage sheet metal would keep it flexing? Or a copper flashing??
Nick
'68 Safari
WBCCI #2577
WDCU
VAC
> Like the replacement wheel well interior covers I constructed from sheet
> metal to replace the OEM plastic that disintegrated due to age, I'm
informed
> that the sheet metal is too rigid and may damage the monocoque. The sheet
> metal can't dissipate the vibration like the ABS plastic.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:59:10 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #155 - Frame support?
Hi Waymark,
Just what you get when you put together a highly integrated light weight
Airstream. All construction interacts with other aspects of design. Just
my opinion, I'm not an engineer. Nor do I profess to know what was really
in the minds of the "aircraft" like engineers.
Take adding a battery in an area that does not have a double outrigger for
support. The existing outrigger weld breaks and the floor sags due to
weight not engineered into the structure. The screws in the monocoque pull
loose so the upper structure isn't damaged. Really messy to repair. Got to
keep heavy weights like this over the frame rail. My water heater has two
outriggers for support of the weight. The contemporary replacement for the
OEM weighs in at about 10 pounds; whereas, the OEM weighed in at about 50
pounds. Keeping things in perspective, I now have weight/balance capacity
for a gray water tank! :)
Even the skin curve that rivets to stringer on the bottom of the outriggers
serves to hold the monocoque to the frame. So much interaction that a
restorer must consider when making modifications and/or restorations.
My '74 is a classic example of a structure not intended for an after market
AC up top. Hard to believe the structural damage from bouncing down the
road and vibration. The installation guide gave precise instructions (I
have the original instruction package) for proper support, but the
installers decided to "do it there own way". I wouldn't know all this
except for the fact that the installer allowed the AC power line to be
pinched between the AC surround and then punched zip screws through the
outer skin and the power line. Unfortunately, the screws shorted the ground
and neutral and not the hot. Took a month of tracing all circuits to verify
that there was a neutral to ground short somewhere in the trailer (my house
GFI would trip each time the trailer was plugged into shore power. Finding
the problem involved removing the inner skin down the center ceiling - a
terrible job as I believe the panel is installed first and the additional
interior skin the run down the wall to the floor. My thoughts was that
there was insulation damage where a wire went through a rib as these are
areas where mice would try to chew their way through. Hmm, maybe I could
paint the Argosy silver and offer it to the advertising community or the
movies for a destructive scenario! :)
Fortunately, there is a provision for removing the interior roof panel in my
'69 Safari. :)
'69
Safari, Joy
From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #155 - Frame support?
> Does the frame support the body or does the body support the frame?
> Al
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 11:29:57 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #155 - Flooring
Why did you choose peel-and-sticks instead of sheet vinyl such as
Congoleum? It's available in wider than a RV floor (8'). It is also
available in a wide variety of thicknesses and patterns. Just curious.
I've installed roll vinyl in a number of kitchens and bathrooms. In small
complex rooms (floor cabinets, partitions) I measured, marked the pattern
in reverse on the bottom of the material, then cut the material about
1"-2" larger. When I laid it down the small excess flexes up the walls
and cabinets, which I then trimmed off. The extra allows for waviness and
slight out-of-squareness in the room.
One could make a pattern from a roll of 6' or 8' wide kraft paper, then
transfer the outline onto the vinyl. Once you have a floor covering that
is not under any cabinets all you have to do to replace it is to remove
it (use a glue that is not so strong that it tears the sheet apart) and
use the old sheet for the pattern for the new. I have found that a good
grade of vinyl (not the real thin cheap stuff) will lie down without glue
if it is secured around the edges with something like shoe molding.
(Maybe some would not want to use shoe molding in a trailer.) Or a little
glue around the edges will do. Reverse rolling the sheet and laying it in
the sun on a warm day helps get the curl out of it before laying it.
My trailer's body, frame and floor are in excellent condition so I won't
be doing a body-off restoration but if I ever do one I would consider
covering the entire floor with undebossed sheet vinyl except where the
body mates to the floor. Is this a good idea? Also using a water "proof"
floor would be a good idea, I think. My utility trailer has a floor and
sides made of a waferboard that is very dense (lots of resin I think) and
has not suffered much from being outdoors for over 10 years. I have never
painted or treated the material. It has even had water and rotting leaves
pooled in it for months at a time with no damage that I can tell. A
sealer like Thompson's Water-Seal should help preserve the floor also.
These aluminum houses sweat and drip water on the floor around the edges
even if there are no leaks whatsoever. Condensation water runs down the
windows in mine, even on the storm windows when they are in place.
Al
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 13:27:04 -0500
> From: Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Peel and Stick Tiles
>
> I have the peel and stick tiles in my 66 safari and they stay down
fine. They must be fitted well and not forced too tightly together, as
they will buckle when really hot. I mean really hot like in direct
Florida sun. If you are forcing them together, that's too tight. Their
biggest advantage is the adhesive is not responsive to water, so leaks
don't result in loose tiles.
>
> From my experience I would avoid light colors as they do show scars and
scrapes, and very decidedly so. The material is sort of soft, and my
costume boots with steel heel plates tore them up. After replacing some
of them with new tiles, I put down some clear floor finish like mop &
glow, with wonderful results. It really toughens them up.
>
> I have a black and white checkerboard pattern in my rear bath which
everyone loves, and goes well with the seafoam green fixtures.
>
> Before I put down the Mop&glow, they looked filthy fast. I hated them,
and wanted to change the pattern out. They stay bright and clean now,
with the product.
>
> The best thing about the peel & stick tiles is they adhere (sic) to the
first rule of restoring anything. "Never do anything you can't undo."
When you want to change out even individual tiles, you just heat them up
with a hair dryer and you can, with a scraper, get them up without too
much trouble. That, and being able to get them almost anywhere, makes for
an easy fix while out on the road. And since I will be performing all
over the country this year, that's important.
>
>
> Alex In Melbourne (instead of Indiana)
> 66 Safari & Overlander
> #8728
>
> ------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:56:29 -0800
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
> Like the replacement wheel well interior covers I constructed from sheet
> metal to replace the OEM plastic that disintegrated due to age, I'm
informed
> that the sheet metal is too rigid and may damage the monocoque. The sheet
> metal can't dissipate the vibration like the ABS plastic.
>
> '69 Safari,
Joy
Joy,
I find this very hard to believe as my 50 Limited, 57 Sovereign of the Road
and my 59 Ambassador International all have the original inner wheel well
covers and they are galvanized steel. The gauge is similar to heating ducts
in your house.The covers still look new as well. I suspect plastic covers
were done to reduce production costs.
Colin
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 14:15:32 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Frame Seperation
Hi Chyde,
Just what I learned from Inland's rep years ago as a reason for going with
light ABS plastic. The outer wheel well is galvanized metal.
Unfortunately, road damage takes it out also. My '74 has ABS plastic and
the breaks cause me lots of grief with road water entry to the floor of the
trailer.
The Inland rep was trying to correct high/low frequency vibration damage to
the monocoque and this was his finding - as far as I remember. I do have
many senior moments. Like running out of balance tires and ruined axles.
Of course, plastic could be a production cost thing as well as a weight
thing.
Regards, '69
Safari Joy
> Joy,
> I find this very hard to believe as my 50 Limited, 57 Sovereign of the
Road
> and my 59 Ambassador International all have the original inner wheel well
> covers and they are galvanized steel. The gauge is similar to heating
ducts
> in your house.The covers still look new as well. I suspect plastic covers
> were done to reduce production costs.
> Colin
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:03:30 -0800
From: "Richard McFarland" <estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Senior Employee historical forum/Airsteam-Jackson Center
Regarding my recent message/suggestion - and the subsequent input - about
Jackson Center...the possibility of an Airstream tour guide/senior employee
historical forum...Homecoming Festival 2004 etc...:
I sent an e-mail letter to Airstream/Jackson Center on Monday morning
(2/9/04).
I received a phone call from them less than two hours later...!
In fact I was in the middle of eating a late breakfast at my local
neighborhood coffee shop....and I had to step outside so I could hear.
(fortunately I did not ignore the ring of my phone...as I sometimes do at
breakfast...)
We had a very - very interesting conversation - and to cut to the
chase....the idea of a historical forum including their senior employees -
being incorporated into the upcoming Homecoming Festival 2004 was thought to
be an interesting idea.
Stay tuned - if I learn more - I'll pass it on.
Sounds very positive.
Thanks for all your input and support.
RL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:47:20 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
There is very little in the survey that pertains to Vintage ownership or
rallies. Maybe we should write comments in where appropriate.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 14:36:00 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
hi roger
i have only been a member of the wbcci and the vac for about 3-4 months. of
the 3 issues of blue berret that i have received, i have seen no reference
to the vac at all. it was my understanding that the vac is a sort of sub
club to the wbcci....like the cb club, computer club, etc. am i incorrect in
this?
your imput would be appreciated
thanks
harry
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
> There is very little in the survey that pertains to Vintage ownership or
> rallies. Maybe we should write comments in where appropriate.
>
> Roger
>
> Roger Hightower
> WBCCI #4165,VAC
> 1975 31' Sovereign
> Mesa, AZ
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 16:45:39 -0500
From: "nickruthwarren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] The Good Sam Club
Hello All,
We have just recieved a mailing from the Good Sam Club, they offer what
seems to be a really good RV'ers Roadside Assistance programme (at an
additional $79). I am about to renew my AAA but think Good Sam may be much
better for us, we're going full-timing from the end of March.
Has anyone used The Good Sam Club? Any stories of their response in a
breakdown or accident situation? Should I keep the AAA going too?
Much appreciated,
Ruth Warren & The Tin Can Clan
1961 Tradewind.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 14:44:57 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Roger:
I supplemented my WBCCI Organization Survey form with a 7
page letter of comments and ideas. It addressed a few
things not covered by the form and complimented the Blue
Beret staff on their most recent issue, which had some
articles of interest to vintage folks. If the 10 lines at
the bottom of the Survey form are insufficient, write them a
letter with your ideas.
Fred Coldwell
Roger Hightower wrote:
>
> There is very little in the survey that pertains to Vintage ownership or
> rallies. Maybe we should write comments in where appropriate.
>
> Roger
>
> Roger Hightower
> WBCCI #4165,VAC
> 1975 31' Sovereign
> Mesa, AZ
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 15:21:21 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Fred
Thats what I plan to do also - I found that some of the questions did not
have choices that were appropriate - that would give them the information
that they need to hear. Seemed to me that the questionaire was not geared
towards working or younger members.
I'm not sure the issue is vintage/nonvintage - its how does the WBCCI
become a viable club that attract a broader based membership than it has now.
I will assume that if we take the time to write, they will take the time to
read.......
I'm very supportive of the WBCCI, I think we all agree it needs to
change. The latest issue is one of the best I've seen in a long time. It
tells me that the officers are listening which gives me confidence that we
will see great changes.
Ken J.
At 02:44 PM 02/11/04 -0700, you wrote:
>Roger:
>
> I supplemented my WBCCI Organization Survey form with a 7
>page letter of comments and ideas. It addressed a few
>things not covered by the form and complimented the Blue
>Beret staff on their most recent issue, which had some
>articles of interest to vintage folks. If the 10 lines at
>the bottom of the Survey form are insufficient, write them a
>letter with your ideas.
>
>Fred Coldwell
>
>Roger Hightower wrote:
> >
> > There is very little in the survey that pertains to Vintage ownership or
> > rallies. Maybe we should write comments in where appropriate.
> >
> > Roger
> >
> > Roger Hightower
> > WBCCI #4165,VAC
> > 1975 31' Sovereign
> > Mesa, AZ
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 16:18:53 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Harry,
The VAC is an Intraclub of the WBCCI, but we don't get much play in the Blue
Beret. This last issue seems to be the exception.
There are infrequent Vintage columns, but I forget who writes them. Much
better information in the Vintage Advantage.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 17:15:22 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <rhightower@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] The Good Sam Club
We've used them for the past few years, and, in all cases, they responded
promptly. In one disastrous trip with the SOB MH, there were repeated calls
to them over a three day period, and they never fliched, just sent out the
service.
Well worth the money.
Bob Hightower
'76 '31 Sov
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "nickruthwarren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 2:45 PM
Subject: [VAL] The Good Sam Club
> Hello All,
>
> We have just recieved a mailing from the Good Sam Club, they offer what
> seems to be a really good RV'ers Roadside Assistance programme (at an
> additional $79). I am about to renew my AAA but think Good Sam may be
much
> better for us, we're going full-timing from the end of March.
>
> Has anyone used The Good Sam Club? Any stories of their response in a
> breakdown or accident situation? Should I keep the AAA going too?
>
> Much appreciated,
>
> Ruth Warren & The Tin Can Clan
> 1961 Tradewind.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 16:58:43 -0800
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] The Good Sam Club
I've heard only good things about Good Sam's road service; as an
alternative, you might also check out RV RoadHelp, which i've had for a few
years - through Allstate, but i'm reasonably sure you can get it without
having Allstate insurance.
They've been better than great - i recommend them wholeheartedly.
tuna
reno, nv
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Hightower" <rhightower@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] The Good Sam Club
> We've used them for the past few years, and, in all cases, they responded
> promptly. In one disastrous trip with the SOB MH, there were repeated
calls
> to them over a three day period, and they never fliched, just sent out the
> service.
>
> Well worth the money.
>
> Bob Hightower
> '76 '31 Sov
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:09:42 -0600
From: "Buddy" <buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] re: wbcci vac
I have an int'l 31' manufatured in jul 79, but registered as an 80 model. I
am only interested in the wbcci because of the vintage A/S club. Can someone
tell when my Int'l will be eligible to be considered vintage?
Thanks.
Buddy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 18:30:48 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] re: wbcci vac
Buddy -
Once you rig hits twenty-five years of age, its considered a vintage. Let's
see, hmmmm, that's NOW if you go by the '79 year and not '80!! Welcome to
the family.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT
on 2/11/04 6:09 PM, Buddy at buddat@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> I have an int'l 31' manufatured in jul 79, but registered as an 80 model. I
> am only interested in the wbcci because of the vintage A/S club. Can someone
> tell when my Int'l will be eligible to be considered vintage?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Buddy
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:45:33 EST
From: JAuman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Gee, you wrote 7 pages? What was some of your ideas of change. It would be
interesting to see what people are thinking. jauman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 20:57:52 -0500
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
Hello Scott,
I can't respond quick enough to your post. All of you out there who are
members of the WBCCI here is your chance to voice your opinion. I have
been composing my "comments" for the past two days, I have to let them
know how I feel about the needed changes I see. Some of the questions in
the survey are good and others need "comments". Those of you out there
that have offered your view to the List on the WBCCI can now get those
ideas in the hands of the WBCCI leadership. I think the key is to get
our ideas in their hands, the more of us who do speak our piece the
harder it is to deny a need for change. Don't sit back and let a few
speak for the masses, get your survey filled out and sent in ASAP. If
you're a VAC member let them know who you are and help show how strong
this group is.
Ed (ready for change)
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Scott Scheuermann
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 11:09 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
All you WBCCI members, please look at the Feb 04 Blue Beret. There is a
member survey that asks for your input. Many of you have been asking for
change, this is your opportunity to be heard by those who direct the
organization. These are the people who can make change happen! Please
take the time today to voice your opinions. Don't let this opportunity
pass by!
Scott Scheuermann
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:14:46 -0600
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 20:57:52 -0500, "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
wrote:
>. Don't sit back and let a few
>speak for the masses, get your survey filled out and sent in ASAP. If
>you're a VAC member let them know who you are and help show how strong
>this group is.
would that include the incorrect wearing of the beret??
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton, chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net Houston, TX
WBCCI/WDCU #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign '02 E350 SD PSD, Prodigy, Pullrite
- ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:47:29 -0500
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
I didn't know that there was a proper way to wear the thing, I did it to
keep the old guys happy. BTW, Since I'm my Unit's Quarter Master, you
want to buy one?
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of schuetzen - RKBA!
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 10:15 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] WBCCI Survey
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 20:57:52 -0500, "Edward Emerick"
<EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
wrote:
>. Don't sit back and let a few
>speak for the masses, get your survey filled out and sent in ASAP. If
>you're a VAC member let them know who you are and help show how strong
>this group is.
would that include the incorrect wearing of the beret??
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton, chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net Houston, TX
WBCCI/WDCU #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign '02 E350 SD PSD, Prodigy, Pullrite
- ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 22:02:41 -0500
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
Hello,
To repair floor rot I have had great success with Git Rot, I buy it at
West Marine. Mixed with a hard wood saw dust it fills rotten holes well.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
TCT
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Chris Koehn
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:45 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] penetrating epoxy
Hi all- I've heard mention of this stuff on the list several times.
Have made a few efforts to find at good hardware stores without luck.
Can someone give me a manufacturer's name, and perhaps an internet
address? I've got subfloor work to do as soon as the weather warms up..
Thanks,
Chris
'79 Int'l @ 31'
New WBCCI member (waiting on the vintage paperwork..)
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #156
*************************
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