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VAL Digest V1 #15



VAL Digest        Wednesday, September 24 2003        Volume 01 : Number 015




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning
RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
Re: [VAL] best of two worlds
Re: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning
[VAL] A/S cabinets
[VAL] A/S cabinets
[VAL] Black water tank removal
RE: [VAL] Heater repair
RE: [VAL] Complete Floor Replacement
Re: [VAL] Black water tank removal
RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
RE: [VAL] best of two worlds
RE: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning
[VAL] A/S cabinets
Re: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
RE: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning
RE: [VAL] Silicone Remover
Re: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
Re: [VAL] US 219 in PA & NY?
RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
[VAL] waste tank valves
[VAL] After polish protection
Re: [VAL] After polish protection
Re: [VAL] After polish protection
RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
RE: [VAL] waste tank valves
Re: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
Re: [VAL] After polish protection
[VAL] silicone remover
[VAL] where to purchase SU100 Silicone Remover - NC
[VAL] SU100 silicone remover - their website
RE: [VAL] Black water tank removal
Re: [VAL] After polish protection
Re: [VAL] After polish protection
Re: [VAL] Silicone Remover
[VAL] So this is where you all are hiding!
Re: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
[VAL] Newest Aluminitus Attack
Re: [VAL] Newest Aluminitus Attack
Re: [VAL] So this is where you all are hiding!
Re: [VAL] waste tank valves
Re: [VAL] Floorcloths?
[VAL] Fwd: FW: Silicone remover
Re: [VAL] Wallmart
Re: [VAL] After polish protection
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] silicone remover
Re: [VAL] waste tank valves
Re: [VAL] So this is where you all are hiding!
Re: [VAL] waste tank valves
[VAL] the "Sewer Solution"
RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 23:27:34 -0700
From: "Richard        McFarland" <estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 14:44:04 -0700
> From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning
>
> Does anyone on the List have an air conditioner with the intake and
> exhaust going through the floor?
>  >
> Thanks,
> RJ Dial
> VintageAirstream.com
>
>
RJ - I'm not sure if you want photos of actual existing Airstream
installations - or info on potential options for installation?  But here is
a model for potential consideration for installation in small trailers.

It's designed for small trailers/tent-campers/camper vans etc - and is
designed to be an "off-roof" installation. - and - it's a heat pump design
so it offers some heating capability.

It refers to it as an under counter installation.   Interior air
distribution is from the front of the unit or via ducting.  It does not
mention what it's exterior venting requirements/limitations etc. are.

Duo-Therm Cool Cat
http://www.advrv.com/ac.htm

I hope this adds to your input.

RL

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 00:52:41 -0600 (MDT)
From: forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org
Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

Lynn,

You might want to give your original cabinet doors a second look. I have a '66 and
all mine are hollow for weight savings. Of course maybe you're making your new ones
hollow too!

Forrest McClure 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:12:12 +0900
From: Jeffrey Fryckman <fryckman@xxxxxxxxxx.att.ne.jp>
Subject: Re: [VAL] best of two worlds

On Tuesday, September 23, 2003, at 12:51 PM, Tom Patterson wrote:

> Sure is, just go to the list office at
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html and sign up for
> whichever one you are not already getting.  You will get both.  
> Actually,
> this works because there are two different address files, one for the
> regular list, and one for the digest.
>
> -Tom

Thanks.  When I tried it the first time one seemed to turn off the 
other, but I guess I was mistaken.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:41:44 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning

RJ,
>
> Not thats is not a good idea, there maybe a reason why there's a fan
setting
> on the floor next to the AC unit. Remember, cold air falls, hot air rises.
> If the
> cold air coming out of the AC unit is already on the floor you will have
> less
> of a cooling action. Your head will be hot and your feet will be cold.
> There's
> a company on Ebay that sales upright units that would fit in a small
closet.
> With small ducts running to the top of the door, this maybe a better idea.
> Just a thought. This unit comes with hoses to draw and exhaust for the
floor
> or wall. Here's a link to one that on there now. This is the unit that I
> plan to
> use. I have never seen one in real life, but looks like a good deal.
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2348630756&category=20711
>
>
> Paul Waddell
> WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:40:22 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] A/S cabinets

Here's how you trace an outline the easy way. Instead of using a compass to 
transfer an outline to the wood panel use a pencil and washer. Holding the 
panel next to the area you want to transfer use a washer to walk a pencil 
placed in the washer's hole around the wall to mark the panel.
Use washers of various sizes to cover the largest gap in the wall panel 
match. I use large washers to get a close match than use a smaller washer 
to get the final cut. Sounds complicated but once you experiment it will 
come to you.

Enclosed is a pic...don't know if it will make it to the list but you can 
see an example at this web site:

http://www.techwarelabs.com/articles/mod/resurrection_2/index_2.shtml

Bob Patterson

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 
window_washer2.jpg"; x-mac-type="4A504547"; x-mac-creator="4A565752]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:55:04 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] A/S cabinets

Here's how you trace an outline the easy way. Instead of using a compass to
transfer an outline to the wood panel use a pencil and washer. Holding the
panel next to the area you want to transfer use a washer to walk a pencil
placed in the washer's hole around the wall to mark the panel.
Use washers of various sizes to cover the largest gap in the wall panel
match. I use large washers to get a close match than use a smaller washer
to get the final cut. Sounds complicated but once you experiment it will
come to you.

Enclosed is a pic...don't know if it will make it to the list but you can
see an example at this web site:

http://www.techwarelabs.com/articles/mod/resurrection_2/index_2.shtml

Bob Patterson

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 
window_washer2.jpg"; x-mac-type="4A504547"; x-mac-creator="4A565752]

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When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:13:44 -0400
From: "Deborah Bede" <stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Black water tank removal

Dear List:

I've removed everything from my 1955 Bubble except for the very last thing,
the black water tank.  The tank looks like it could be original, but was
apparently reinstalled at some later time in a slightly different position.
The slider valve below the belly looks possibly newer than the tank (the
toilet was plastic, definitely not original).  I can't see how the tank is
attached to the valve - is there some standard way these are attached?  To
complicate things, the tank isn't empty (I guess this shouldn't have been a
surprise to me, but it was.....) and I can't move the trailer at the moment
to a dump site to clean it out.  I've drained the liquids.  Can anyone tell
me how to get the tank out?

thanks for your help,

Deborah

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:07:35 -0600
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Heater repair

Tom,

The heater on my 67 Tradewind is easy to remove.  First remove the
center upright board of the cabinet.  This is in front of the heater.
The heater is in its own sheet metal cabinet.  Remove screws around the
front parameter.  Disconnect the gas line and the wiring connection to
the thermostat.  Disconnect the 12vdc connection and mark which wire to
the heater is positive (black wire in the Tradewind).  If you later
reverse these leads the fan will run backward.  At this point the heater
should slide out the front.  Make sure the intake and exhaust pipes
align with the holes in the wall when you replace the heater.

This all assumes that the 69 and 67 are similar.

Best Regards,
   Jim


> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> On Behalf Of Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 1:59 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Heater repair
> 
> Hello all: A few months ago I mentioned that I was going to take out
the
> kitchen cabinet in my 1969 25ft Tradewind so that I could get at the
> heater.  The
> heater has been making those "there's something wrong with me" noises
> after it
> has been running for about 10 minutes.  Someone on this list said that
I
> did
> not have to take out the sink and counter to get the heater out and
that
> they
> would help me when I was ready.  I am ready but have forgotten the
> individuals
> name and e-mail.  Does Joy sound familiar?  If someone out there
remembers
> my
> post and can offer advise on how to get this heater out without taking
the
> sink cabinet apart, please let me know.
> 
> Tom Fairbank
> 1969 Tradewind
> WBCCI 28199 (evaluating membership)
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 07:29:22 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Complete Floor Replacement

> Q: How do we proceed without loosing the integrity of the
> trailer? More
> specifically, the floor appears to be connecting the shell to
> the frame,
> how can we pull out the rotted sections of floor without the
> gap closing
> between the C Channel and the frame?

As you cut and remove the floor sections, insert plywood blocks to keep
the C Channel up off the frame. Here's an image from the archives that
shows how it's done:
http://vintageairstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/WorldTraveler800/f
looroffheater.jpg

>
> Q: Secondly, on our 1976 tradewind, when removing parts of
> the floor the
> seams were bolted down with a floor type bolts/screws with a phillips
> type head for removal. This unit has just a flat head, how do
> I remove
> and what do I replace them with???

They are most likely span bolts (a carriage type bolt - no slot).
Access to the nut is from the bottom (requires belly skin removal). If
your belly skin is in great shape and you don't want to disturb it, an
alternative is to test locate the frames (see
http://vintageairstream.com/archives1/59WorldTraveler/59WorldTraveler.ht
ml for typical '50s layout) and then remove the plywood between the
frames with a circular saw and remove the nuts from above.

What works good to reinstall the flooring is self-tapping, large head
self-countersinking 1/4" dia sheathing screws. At $0.38 each, they
aren't cheap, but you don't need that many.  Requires drilling the frame
to install.  Don't know if there is a web source for them (I'll check
later), and they aren't a Home Despot item.

Best of luck,
RJ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 10:46:12 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Black water tank removal

Deborah, I didn't think a '55 had a black water tank but I'm no authority.
If my memory is working it may be a custom installation.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deborah Bede" <stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 9:13 AM
Subject: [VAL] Black water tank removal


> Dear List:
>
> I've removed everything from my 1955 Bubble except for the very last
thing,
> the black water tank.  The tank looks like it could be original, but was
> apparently reinstalled at some later time in a slightly different
position.
> The slider valve below the belly looks possibly newer than the tank (the
> toilet was plastic, definitely not original).  I can't see how the tank is
> attached to the valve - is there some standard way these are attached?  To
> complicate things, the tank isn't empty (I guess this shouldn't have been
a
> surprise to me, but it was.....) and I can't move the trailer at the
moment
> to a dump site to clean it out.  I've drained the liquids.  Can anyone
tell
> me how to get the tank out?
>
> thanks for your help,
>
> Deborah
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 07:50:24 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

It was still the same three species.  The only variations over the years
was the birch plywood and framing of the '40's and '50's and the walnut
veneer introduced in the 1970's.  Maybe one of these days Tom Walden
will get his book or website done showing original finishes and
materials :>)

A few interesting notes.  Airstream used true Mahogany in the 1960's
before the realization that the Central American rain forests were being
depleted.  The Philippine "Mahogany" available nowadays won't match the
grain and color at all. Alternative when repairing such cabinetry is the
really expensive stuff grown on C.A. plantations.

One of the finishes available from Airstream was a "pickled" (whitewash)
type of finish.  What is interesting about it is the species of wood
used under this seems to be all over the spectrum: oak, birch & ash and
usually all mixed.

There have been reports from people of elm being used, but no Catalogs
show that as an option, and since it can be confused with other light
woods, I think it can be discounted due to its commercial rarity by the
1960's.

If anyone has any additional information on cabinetry species, I'm
always open for ideas to update the FAQ section.

RJ Dial
VintageAirstream.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: chris@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:chris@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 7:29 PM
> To: chris@xxxxxxxxxx.com; valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
>
>
> RJ, Do you have the specifications for wood interior on the
> '63 Ambassador?
> Chris
> On a '67 the choices are Ash, Oak or Honduran Mahogany..
> Best of luck,
> RJ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:09:09 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

Forrest brings up a real good point often overlooked.  There's a real
big reason Airstream made the cabinetry from 1/4" and 1'2" veneered
plywood and the doors are hollow core.  You'd be surprised at the number
of times I've come across interior remodels where someone used 3/4"
plywood and custom solid wood cabinet doors on an older trailer, and the
owner wondered how their trailer got to be so heavy and harder to tow.
If you throw a big enough tow vehicle at it, that can be overcome, but
then there's the issue of the extra weight on the frame and shell that
it wasn't designed for, resulting in frame/floor/skin separation and
loosening.

Solution? Custom cabinets are fine, but think like an aircraft designer:
lightweight but sturdy using quality materials and construction methods.
Later,
RJ


> -----Original Message-----
> From: forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org [mailto:forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org]
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 11:53 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com; forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org
> Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
>
> Lynn,
>
> You might want to give your original cabinet doors a second
> look. I have a '66 and
> all mine are hollow for weight savings. Of course maybe
> you're making your new ones
> hollow too!
>
> Forrest McClure

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:10:35 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] best of two worlds

If you use the "Change to Digests or Emails" near the bottom of the
page, that would happen.
RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: fryckman@xxxxxxxxxx.att.ne.jp [mailto:fryckman@xxxxxxxxxx.att.ne.jp]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 1:12 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] best of two worlds
>
>
> Thanks.  When I tried it the first time one seemed to turn off the
> other, but I guess I was mistaken.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:48:22 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning

That's the one.  Roy Lashway also has one installed in his Bubble.
http://www.zianet.com/rlashway/

I'll contact Roy for installation details, mainly if there is separate
intake exhaust ducts in the rear and how the condensate drain works.
What is intersting is that none of the Doemetic websites has any info on
it - wonder if it's still made...

RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net
> [mailto:estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 11:28 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning
> >
> > Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 14:44:04 -0700
> > From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning
> >
> > Does anyone on the List have an air conditioner with the intake and
> > exhaust going through the floor?

> RJ - I'm not sure if you want photos of actual existing Airstream
> installations - or info on potential options for
> installation?  But here is
> a model for potential consideration for installation in small
> trailers.
>
> It's designed for small trailers/tent-campers/camper vans etc - and is
> designed to be an "off-roof" installation. - and - it's a
> heat pump design
> so it offers some heating capability.
>
> It refers to it as an under counter installation.   Interior air
> distribution is from the front of the unit or via ducting.
> It does not
> mention what it's exterior venting requirements/limitations etc. are.
>
> Duo-Therm Cool Cat
> http://www.advrv.com/ac.htm
>
> I hope this adds to your input.
>
> RL

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 11:58:57 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] A/S cabinets

Here's how you trace an outline the easy way. Instead of using a compass to
transfer an outline to the wood panel use a pencil and washer. Holding the
panel next to the area you want to transfer use a washer to walk a pencil
placed in the washer's hole around the wall to mark the panel.
Use washers of various sizes to cover the largest gap in the wall panel
match. I use large washers to get a close match than use a smaller washer
to get the final cut. Sounds complicated but once you experiment it will
come to you.

Enclosed is a pic...don't know if it will make it to the list but you can
see an example at this web site:

http://www.techwarelabs.com/articles/mod/resurrection_2/index_2.shtml

Bob Patterson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 12:17:29 -0400
From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

<snip>
> 
> There have been reports from people of elm being used, but no Catalogs
> show that as an option, and since it can be confused with other light
> woods, I think it can be discounted due to its commercial rarity by the
> 1960's.
> 
> If anyone has any additional information on cabinetry species, I'm
> always open for ideas to update the FAQ section.
> 
<snip>

RJ et. al.,

One of our WDCU members who did his apprenticeship as a furniture maker 
has informed me that the plywood in my '57 Bubble is elm.  Since my 
apprenticeship was in the electrical trade I tend to take his word over 
my own.  As you have stated, elm is certainly not commercially available 
any more, and may have been getting scarce by the late '50s and was 
probably gone by the '60s.  I am informed (by the same source) that ash 
is a very close match except for the missing minute herringbone sub 
grain of elm:  only a trained observer would notice the difference.  As 
soon as I get back to New Mexico I'll post some close up shots of the 
elm grain on my webshots page and notify the list.

Matt Worner

'75 Sov
'76 Rear door Argosy 24'
'57 Bubble
'58 Wanderer

http://community.webshots.com/user/wornmatt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:37:38 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning

Has potential - I've seen one used in a office, but here would be my
concerns after seeing it:

- - The exhaust port is to the front and only comes with a section of hose
- - it was designed to be placed next to a window.  To permanently exhaust
through the floor would require some rework of the housing.
- - There currently isn't a way to permanently mount it to withstand
traveling.

I guess an solution to the above two would be to leave it portable in a
closet and roll it out next to a window whenever you want to use it, but
with floor space in an Airstream at a premium...

- - since the cool air outlet is on the upper sloped face it would require
a closet door to be opened to run it, or would require it's own
permanent floor space or spot to use it.

- - It looked like it was taking interior air and using it to cool the
condenser coils, and then exhausting it out the duct - not too
efficient.

But I guess the price is a little more palatable ($500)

Later,
RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 6:42 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Undercabinet Air-Conditioning
>
>
> RJ,
> >
> > Not thats is not a good idea, there maybe a reason why there's a fan
> setting
> > on the floor next to the AC unit. Remember, cold air falls,
> hot air rises.
> > If the
> > cold air coming out of the AC unit is already on the floor
> you will have
> > less
> > of a cooling action. Your head will be hot and your feet
> will be cold.
> > There's
> > a company on Ebay that sales upright units that would fit in a small
> closet.
> > With small ducts running to the top of the door, this maybe
> a better idea.
> > Just a thought. This unit comes with hoses to draw and
> exhaust for the
> floor
> > or wall. Here's a link to one that on there now. This is
> the unit that I
> > plan to
> > use. I have never seen one in real life, but looks like a good deal.
> >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2348630756&;
category=20711

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:50:11 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Silicone Remover

The SU100 is explained here:
http://www.rmoreau.com/su100.htm

If anyone has found a source for the quarts, let me know.
RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu [mailto:jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu]
> Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 8:35 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Battery question
>
>
> Does a solvent exist for Silicon Sealer? I have tried one of
> the Orange
> (citrus) products; denatured alcohol, kerosene, acetone, mineral
> spirits (paint thinner), energine, Shout, Def adhesive
> remover, Gorilla
> adhesive remover, WD40, and no luck.
> Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 12:47:07 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

My 65 tradewind had a walnut interior walnut faced plywiid pannels and solid 
walnut framing
Jim Smith & Little Hemroid(our new American Eskimo Pup)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 13:13:41 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] US 219 in PA & NY?

The following is a response to my question regarding whether or not US 219 
is a good route to take from I-80 in PA to Buffalo, NY. I received it 
off-list, but thought others might be interested in reading it (I received 
Becky's permission to post it):


       We live about 30 miles south of that intersection and take 219
to Buffalo frequently to visit family.  It is a good road, wide enough
for any Airstream because it is used by tractor trailers.  It has been
improved over the years to provide a pleasant ride for drivers.  We have
been driving that road for over 20 years.

 >Any info on wether or not this route is "friendly" when towing a 31' long
 >trailer? How about availability of fuel?

       You just need to be careful towing down Boot Jack Hill which is
just south of Ridgway, about 20 miles north of DuBois (where you take
219 off of I-80).   This is an 8-10% downgrade (I dont remember exactly).
There is a left turn at the bottom of the hill, then a right turn two
blocks up the road.

       As for fuel, it is available.  Just do not use the gas station at
I-80 and S.R. 255 (exit 101).  Their current gas price is $2.00/gal.
There are other gas stations with lower prices.  If you need gas at
the point where you leave I-80 for 219 (exit 97), go south on I-219
and use the large Sheetz gas station/convenience store about half a
mile up the road on the right.  Their prices are the best in the area.
If you have enough fuel at that point, you can get cheap gasoline at
the Seneca Indian gas station/tobacco outlet in New York state just
north of I-86 on the left side of the road.  I believe their prices
are the best.

  >We have taken a few "scenic" routes that turned out to be very slow and/or
 >scary, and I would like to avoid that....

        This is a road with mostly a 55 mph speed limit until you hit the
expressway section just north of Springville, NY, where the speed limit
goes to 65.

             There is also a 3 mile downhill in the Allegheny National 
Forest with a great vista, especially
since the trees are starting to turn colors.  This route is scenic but very 
pleasant for driving in my
opinion; some drivers (my sister especially) would consider it scary at 
that point.  There is a drop-off
but the trees growing along it on the right hand side seem to buffer the 
scaryfeeling for me.   It is
perfectly safe to drive down that hill.

             We had hoped to get to the NF rally as my college reunion is 
that weekend in Buffalo.  But
our kids activities are getting in the way.  I hope we can get to the WDCU 
rally in West Virginia in
October.

             If you have any other questions, just ask.

             Becky Weimer
             Punxsutawney, PA



_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 13:25:06 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

Actually I am cutting up the doors and reusing them...cardboard
inside...for the cabinets in the plastic bath.  We are making light
weight panels in doors of plastic decoupaged with ricepaper on it and
some with formica in them.  Many of the cherry doors are thinner and the
rails and stiles are narrower to watch weight...I am a fanatic about it.

I made a utility door in the rear with foamcore inside.  My shelves I am
making right now are 1/4" pw supported underneath with strips of
hardwood kregscrewed to the walls....not pretty but light!  That's why
there's a door [a lightweight folding plastic door]!!!

Lexxy/aka/Lynn
flummoxed.org/lexxey/ 



Lynn,

You might want to give your original cabinet doors a second look. I have
a '66 and all mine are hollow for weight savings. Of course maybe you're
making your new ones hollow too!

Forrest McClure 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 13:35:29 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

All this walnut and mahagony stuff sounds yummy!!!  I wish I could see
some.  Mine was the whitewashed oak, I think and plain as can be.

I sure am enjoying all the posts on cabinets and I'm glad I brought it
up.  There is just something about being surrounded by woods and colors
that I just love that makes it all feel homey and mine [ours]!!! I
actually have a bit outrageous tastes and I have to force myself to be
more tasteful or it's gonna look like it's decorated by Dame Edna!!!
Anybody know who I mean?

I bought $300 in fabrics for the Airstream in Atlanta closeout stores
and it was sooooo much fun...won't be long until I get to make cushions
and curtains,,,yea!!!  For now it's still a definite construction
site!!!  And a slow moving one at that. 

Is it just me or was the 67 Safari a more basic...say 'cheaper' unit?

Lexxy/aka/Lynn
flummoxed.org/lexxey/ 


My 65 tradewind had a walnut interior walnut faced plywiid pannels and
solid 
walnut framing
Jim Smith & Little Hemroid(our new American Eskimo Pup)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 10:41:48 -0700
From: "Jonas.Nathan" <Nathan.Jonas@xxxxxxxxxx.ca.gov>
Subject: [VAL] waste tank valves

I've been watching the discussion on the waste tank valves ... I will be
working on mine eventually and I'm wondering if anyone has replaced the
Thedford valves with ball valves.


Nathan Jonas
'72 Sovereign
Shingle Springs CA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 11:03:57 -0700
From: "Tim  Shephard" <tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com>
Subject: [VAL] After polish protection

What is the prefered home treatment for a newly polished trailer to protect
it from water spots, bird ...., and other nastys?

- -Tim
tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com
www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 11:13:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection

glass wax works - sometimes hard to find, I found it
online:

http://www.jensco.com/glasswax.html

but it looks like they won't be making it any more.

I did a quick search and came up with metal wax:

http://www.metalwax.com

but I haven't tried it.  also, I think that
http://www.airmark-tools.net has a protectant.

Toby

- --- Tim  Shephard <tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com> wrote:
> What is the prefered home treatment for a newly
> polished trailer to protect
> it from water spots, bird ...., and other nastys?
> 
> -Tim
> tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com
> www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
> eFax (508) 590-0302
> 
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all
> unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
> go to
>
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 11:42:18 -0700
From: "Tim  Shephard" <tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection

Is there any reason NOT to use auto wax like Mother's or Turtle wax?


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Toby Folwick" <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection


> glass wax works - sometimes hard to find, I found it
> online:
> 
> http://www.jensco.com/glasswax.html
> 
> but it looks like they won't be making it any more.
> 
> I did a quick search and came up with metal wax:
> 
> http://www.metalwax.com
> 
> but I haven't tried it.  also, I think that
> http://www.airmark-tools.net has a protectant.
> 
> Toby
> 
> --- Tim  Shephard <tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com> wrote:
> > What is the prefered home treatment for a newly
> > polished trailer to protect
> > it from water spots, bird ...., and other nastys?
> > 
> > -Tim
> > tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com
> > www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
> > eFax (508) 590-0302
> > 
> >
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all
> > unnecessary original text
> > 
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
> > go to
> >
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 11:43:10 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

Jim,
Is it original or your exceptional woodworking? If original, that would
be rare (custom?) for 1965, and good information to know.  Any other Pre
1971 walnut cabinetry out there?

Love the pups name!  A little pain in the butt is he?
RJ
VintageAirstream.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 9:47 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Cc: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry
>
>
> My 65 tradewind had a walnut interior walnut faced plywiid
> pannels and solid
> walnut framing
> Jim Smith & Little Hemroid(our new American Eskimo Pup)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 11:48:05 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] waste tank valves

No reason it couldn't be done.  I think the reason slide valves are
always used in this application is it gets done in 3" what it would take
a large diameter 10" long Ball Valve to do, plus in the locations they
are usually mounted it is easier to push-pull rather than twist.
RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nathan.Jonas@xxxxxxxxxx.ca.gov [mailto:Nathan.Jonas@xxxxxxxxxx.ca.gov]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 10:42 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] waste tank valves
>
> I've been watching the discussion on the waste tank valves
> ... I will be
> working on mine eventually and I'm wondering if anyone has
> replaced the
> Thedford valves with ball valves.
> Nathan Jonas
> '72 Sovereign
> Shingle Springs CA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 15:07:41 -0400
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

RJ,

Our 1969 29' International Ambassador has walnut veneer cabinets, not the
overhead bins though as they had a vinyl covering I've since replaced with a
very nice grass cloth that coordinates nicely.

The under bed bin doors are of walnut veneer and the frames are most likely
another hardwood stained to look like walnut.

When I had to replace a broken piece of the front sofa frame I used poplar -
a very good wood to use stain on as it's grain resembles very expensive
hardwoods with tight grains such as cherry, walnut, etc.

Tom
WBCCI 5303
1969 29' International Ambassador


From: <RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry


> Jim,
> Is it original or your exceptional woodworking? If original, that would
> be rare (custom?) for 1965, and good information to know.  Any other Pre
> 1971 walnut cabinetry out there?
>
> Love the pups name!  A little pain in the butt is he?
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 15:09:20 -0400
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection

Tim,

Mother's or Maquire's would be better than Turtle Wax in my opinion.  

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection


> Is there any reason NOT to use auto wax like Mother's or Turtle wax?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 15:26:06 -0400
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] silicone remover

Anyone here tried Acetone for this job yet?

The fish tank people use this.

Tom
WBCCI 5303

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 15:28:57 -0400
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] where to purchase SU100 Silicone Remover - NC

Where to purchase SU100 Silicone Remover. 

Moreau Marketing & Sales
501 Shepherd Street, Ste. 4
Winston-Salem, NC 27103
336-659-6674
Fax: 336-659-6683

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 15:30:32 -0400
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] SU100 silicone remover - their website

http://www.rmoreau.com/su100.htm

You can go here to see all their silicone products.

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 12:52:46 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Black water tank removal

In 1955 a waste tank would have been very rare, and made from soldered
sheet (usually copper).  If it's ABS or plastic, it's an add-on, and
it's doubtful you'll get any meaningful feedback on its installation.
Best of luck,
RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 6:14 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Black water tank removal
>
>
> Dear List:
> I've removed everything from my 1955 Bubble except for the
> very last thing,
> the black water tank.  The tank looks like it could be
> original, but was
> apparently reinstalled at some later time in a slightly
> different position.
> The slider valve below the belly looks possibly newer than
> the tank (the
> toilet was plastic, definitely not original).....
> thanks for your help,
>
> Deborah

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 16:22:05 -0400
From: "Robert L. Cornute" <ccornut1@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection

Try 2001 made by turtle wax; this is what the Ruths recommend for the
traileers that they have finished.  Bob Cornute '77 31' International; just
stripped, polished & recoated by them!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Toby Folwick" <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection


> glass wax works - sometimes hard to find, I found it
> online:
>
> http://www.jensco.com/glasswax.html
>
> but it looks like they won't be making it any more.
>
> I did a quick search and came up with metal wax:
>
> http://www.metalwax.com
>
> but I haven't tried it.  also, I think that
> http://www.airmark-tools.net has a protectant.
>
> Toby
>
> --- Tim  Shephard <tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com> wrote:
> > What is the prefered home treatment for a newly
> > polished trailer to protect
> > it from water spots, bird ...., and other nastys?
> >
> > -Tim
> > tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com
> > www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
> > eFax (508) 590-0302
> >
> >
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all
> > unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
> > go to
> >
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 13:49:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection

another thought - I think the whole glasswax thing was
that it is wax, but clear - I imagine that automotive
waxes are built specifically for paint - I don't know
what that would mean to a mirror finish, but if you're
going to go the automotive wax route, don't cheap on
it - Maguires makes a good wax (yellow carnauba
though) but even better in my opinion would be 3M
"perfect-it" hand glaze.  try to keep any of it out of
the seams - it'll turn it white (or yellow).

t

- --- T o m <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com> wrote:
> Tim,
> 
> Mother's or Maquire's would be better than Turtle
> Wax in my opinion.  
> 
> Tom
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@xxxxxxxxxx-pros.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 2:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection
> 
> 
> > Is there any reason NOT to use auto wax like
> Mother's or Turtle wax?
> 
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all
> unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
> go to
>
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 14:48:51 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Silicone Remover

I found quarts of Silicone Remover (brand not admitted) at
McMaster-Carr. www.mcmaster.com, their part number (from my printed
catalog) 8460T6 for a quart, $25.60. 10 oz aerosol, 8460T3. $8.39. or
gallons 8460T2, $79.00.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 16:33:27 -0500
From: Sherry <sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] So this is where you all are hiding!

This is a 2-fold message: letting everyone know that I've re-signed up after losing 
track of the VAC list for a while and checking to make sure I can post using an SMTP 
server that is different than my reply to address. I'm posting using a PDA and my Sprint 
phone, and I can only use Sprint's authentication to send.

It's good to be back.

Happy trails - Sherry Hayes
'63 Bambi

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:39:02 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

The original wood work was walnut. the doors were 1/2 walnut faced ply fased 
on both sides bulkheads were1/4 ply walnut faced both sides the over head 
cabnets were framed in luan stained in a poor attempt to fake walnut'.It is still 
work underprogress have made the last sunburst pannel doors to install under 
the front sofa bed have not worked on lt recently trying to get my ducks in a 
row ,.interaing yhe ida of installing a window type AC wnder the front sofa bed 
and have the intake and exaust through the floor found a 5000 btu unit at 
Best Buy that will fit it would supplment the roof top unit. also am building in 
a auto raido and cd player with a power antenna working through what ust to be 
the Gas fridge vent. next after that is to mounr a flat screen TV on the 
front bulkhead with the DVd played under the cabnet. Got to keep my dream alive.
Jim Smith&Little Hemorid The pup

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:39:47 -0400
From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Newest Aluminitus Attack

Couldn't let this one go by (buy?) on ebay so...

See the '58 Wanderer folder at:

	http://community.webshots.com/user/wornmatt

Seems I have a fear of running out of things to get done before I die. 
Should have everything finished by my 237th birthday.  Please keep an 
eye out for other likely projects and let me know where to find them.

Thanks,
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:47:19 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Newest Aluminitus Attack

The way to immortality is to alwats have an unfinished project on han be 
always sure so start a couple of new ones first before finishing the one at hand.
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:06:47 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] So this is where you all are hiding!

Hi Sherry,

Glad you found the list.  Most of the postings that you might have missed
are archived on the site, just the way the VAC messages were, so you can
check through them if you want.

- -Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sherry" <sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <VAList@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: [VAL] So this is where you all are hiding!


> This is a 2-fold message: letting everyone know that I've re-signed up
after losing track of the VAC list for a while and checking to make sure I
can post using an SMTP server that is different than my reply to address.
I'm posting using a PDA and my Sprint phone, and I can only use Sprint's
authentication to send.
>
> It's good to be back.
>
> Happy trails - Sherry Hayes
> '63 Bambi
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 18:43:58 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] waste tank valves

Nathan
Due to the limited space for the dump valve I'd doubt you'd really want a
ball valve to replace the compact slide valve. Another thing if you did
decide to replace the slide valve with a ball type you'd be lowering the
waste hookup unless you really modified the outlet to keep it the same exit
height. If you lowered the slinky connection you'd be very upset the first
time you ended up at a campsite where the sewer hookup was 7 or 8 inches
above the ground or if it was high where the sewer connection ended up
having the s--- go uphill instead of down. The reason I point this out is
because Airstreams sit lower than SOB trailers and fifth wheels. When we
went to Chattanooga we were assigned a site where the sewer hose when
connected was almost perfectly level. We ended up changing sites in the A.M.
to one more suited to the low sitting Airstream.
Bobby


- ----- Original Message -----
Wrom: PQQWOYIYZUNNYCGPKYLEJGDGVCJVTLBXFGGMEPYO
To: "To:" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 1:41 PM
Subject: [VAL] waste tank valves


> I've been watching the discussion on the waste tank valves ... I will be
> working on mine eventually and I'm wondering if anyone has replaced the
> Thedford valves with ball valves.
>
>
> Nathan Jonas
> '72 Sovereign
> Shingle Springs CA
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:18:12 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Floorcloths?

Nick
If you check around you may find a few ideas for painting a pattern on the
floor.
Bobby


- ----- Original Message -----
Wrom: AUTFJMVRESKPNKMBIPBARHDMNNSKVFVWR

> I have decided on painting my floor with a strong, tough epoxy paint.
>
> I was going to put an expensive vinyl floor down, but I didn't want to
risk
> ruining it while I install the rest of the interior.
> Then I thought, why not just paint the floor.  It sure will save a lot of
> weight!  That's what I am interested in...weight savings.
>
> I can always use a few rugs, or just some tiles between the cabs...or
paint
> a pattern...which is a fine idea Jim!
>
> Nick Novia
> WBCCI #2577
> WDCU
> VAC
> '68 Safari

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:57:25 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Fwd: FW: Silicone remover

These are the West Coast suppliers I mentioned, along with some other 
products.
Jo Ann

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Matt Reichstein" <mreichstein@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Date: Tue Sep 23, 2003  1:30:47 PM US/Pacific
> To: jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu
> Subject: FW: Silicone remover
>
> Joann,
> For your application that you called out, we have the following
> products.
> Dow Corning OS20, OS30, OS2
> And also
> Sisulfasol
>
> You can go onto www.kranderson.com to get pricing and sizes on each of
> these items.  You can also pull tech data and msds's on these items.
>
> Thanks Joann,
> Matt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:23:18 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wallmart

This is the Walmart that made national news after the local campgrounds
complained about the free overnight camping.  I remember when it was going
on - never understood the battle - 10 rv's in the Walmart parking lot 100's
in the campground - didn't seem like they were loosing much business to me.

Ken J
Durango Co

At 10:32 AM 9/22/2003 EDT, you wrote:
>Hey Guys!
>
>We just ended a 10 day trip to a family reunion in South Fork Co....
>On the third day after joining up with some relatives from Pa we spent one 
>night at Walmart in Durango Co. ( GREAT TOWN~ LOTS OF things to see and do)
>
>The next day we found notes on our rigs that read. " Dear valued Walmart 
>shopper~
>While we are pleased to see you and welcome you ~ we have agreed with local 
>RV parks to post no overnight parking signs in our lots. With a list of a
few 
>parks on the page. 
>My uncle in his infinite wisdom chose to go in and wrangle with the MGR. and 
>got us another night if we agreed to leave by 7am.
>So be aware that not all Wally's are as welcoming as others....depending on 
>how hungry the locals are!
>
>The rest of the trip was fabo. as we then stopped at Mesa Verde Co. then 
>three days at grand canyon. It was our 6th trip there. We like to take
friends and 
>relatives there to see how they react to the BIG DITCH!!!!!
>
>Only nitch in our 30 year old rig was a leaky gray water tank at 3/4 full
and 
>a flapping under belly pan near the axle where someone didn't put the rivets 
>back in properly.
>
>All systems worked flawless and the 91 Ford F250~ 460 pulled like a dream up 
>all the big hills.
>
>AlanT
>Phx AZ
>74 Safari
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:37:48 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] After polish protection

I use a Rollite sealer - works great

Ken Johansen
5358
75 Tradewind

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:55:09 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover

Tom - it didn't do it for me - I think if the silicon is still wet, 
i.e., hasn't cured yet that the acetone or mineral oil might help but 
not otherwise. The SU100 stuff even requires soaking, from a few hours 
to overnight. I've located some on the West coast - now to see if I can 
get a relatively small amount from the supplier.
Jo Ann
On Tuesday, September 23, 2003, at 12:26 PM, T o m wrote:

> Anyone here tried Acetone for this job yet?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:23:37 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover

McMaster-Carr Los Angeles number is 562-995-5500. Has 10 oz aerosol and
quarts, takes plastic, ships quickly at low cost.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 21:50:02 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover

Acetone will eat the clearcoat right off.

Mineral spirits, liberallyand patiently applied, will soften silicone 
and make it let go.

Daisy

T o m wrote:
> Anyone here tried Acetone for this job yet?
> 
> The fish tank people use this.
> 
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:03:50 -0400
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover

Daisy,

There will still be a coating of silicone unless one is willing to
completely remove the silicone which *means* going down to bare aluminum.
There is no other way to remove all traces of that stuff.  Silicone is good
stuff and there's good, better and best silicone out there .. BUT ... it's a
bitch to remove and that entails going down through all the traces to bare
metal.

If any silicone is left any attempt to cover up the traces of siliconw will
fail.  This is one reason people use other types of sealers in my opinion.
This is just what I know.

Tom

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Daisy Welch" <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] silicone remover


> Acetone will eat the clearcoat right off.
>
> Mineral spirits, liberallyand patiently applied, will soften silicone
> and make it let go.
>
> Daisy
>
> T o m wrote:
> > Anyone here tried Acetone for this job yet?
> >
> > The fish tank people use this.
> >
> > Tom
> > WBCCI 5303
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:20:31 -0400
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] waste tank valves

Bobby,

At Camping World I purchased a new type of contraption so I don't have to
haul around the blue slinky anymore.  Have you seen them?

This piece attaches to the tank outlet where the slinky would normally go.
However, there is a built in Venturi that breaks up anything in the black
water tank - just about anything.  One of the best reasons to have this jet
action slinky replacement is because now we can use regular type tissue for
the toilet.  The venturi action blasts to bits most anything that comes it's
way!  The females would still not be able to dispose of needed items
though - but common sense dictates that much.  Doesn't it?  Or do some
people really need the HEY, STUPID!  sign? :)

And about pushing it uphill?  This device will do just that!  It is said to
push 'it' up so many inches over hundreds of feet (away from the entry point
is what they mean).  And instead of the blue slinky you now can use a garden
hose - and - you get to turn the jet action venturi to point inside your
tank to rinse it out when you are done.

How nice is that?  Anyone here use these contraptions?

Tom
WBCCI 5303


From: <gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] waste tank valves


> Nathan
> Due to the limited space for the dump valve I'd doubt you'd really want a
> ball valve to replace the compact slide valve. Another thing if you did
> decide to replace the slide valve with a ball type you'd be lowering the
> waste hookup unless you really modified the outlet to keep it the same
exit
> height. If you lowered the slinky connection you'd be very upset the first
> time you ended up at a campsite where the sewer hookup was 7 or 8 inches
> above the ground or if it was high where the sewer connection ended up
> having the s--- go uphill instead of down. The reason I point this out is
> because Airstreams sit lower than SOB trailers and fifth wheels. When we
> went to Chattanooga we were assigned a site where the sewer hose when
> connected was almost perfectly level. We ended up changing sites in the
A.M.
> to one more suited to the low sitting Airstream.
> Bobby

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 19:23:14 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] So this is where you all are hiding!

It's good to have you back Sherry.

Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT 


> This is a 2-fold message: letting everyone know that I've re-signed up after
> losing track of the VAC list for a while and checking to make sure I can post
> using an SMTP server that is different than my reply to address. I'm posting
> using a PDA and my Sprint phone, and I can only use Sprint's authentication to
> send.
> 
> It's good to be back.
> 
> Happy trails - Sherry Hayes
> '63 Bambi

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 23:42:02 -0400
From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] waste tank valves

T o m wrote:

<snip>
>  And instead of the blue slinky you now can use a garden
> hose - and - you get to turn the jet action venturi to point inside your
> tank to rinse it out when you are done.
> 
> How nice is that?  Anyone here use these contraptions?
> 
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
> 
> 
> <snip>

Tom

You are referring to the "Sewer Solution" no?

Definitely the greatest thing since pockets on shirts.  Have had mine 
since I first bought the trailer.

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 00:41:42 -0400
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] the "Sewer Solution"

That's the one, Matt.

Tom

> T o m wrote:
>
> <snip>
> >  And instead of the blue slinky you now can use a garden
> > hose - and - you get to turn the jet action venturi to point inside your
> > tank to rinse it out when you are done.
> >
> > How nice is that?  Anyone here use these contraptions?
> >
> > Tom
> > WBCCI 5303
> > <snip>

> From: "Matt Worner" <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Tom

>
> You are referring to the "Sewer Solution" no?
>
> Definitely the greatest thing since pockets on shirts.  Have had mine
> since I first bought the trailer.
>
> Matt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 22:53:46 -0600 (MDT)
From: forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org
Subject: RE: [VAL] building A/S cabinetry

Lynn,

What you're doing sounds really interesting. I hope to see it someday! Or at least
some photos on the web.

Forrest

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #15
************************


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