VAL Digest V1 #134

VAL Digest         Wednesday, January 21 2004         Volume 01 : Number 134




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Wheel seals
[VAL] Re:Suburban Heater
Re: [VAL] Wheel seals
Re: [VAL] Wheel seals
Re: [VAL] Wheel seals - I've dug
[VAL] More wiring: grounding & inverters?
Re: [VAL] More wiring: grounding & inverters?
[VAL] Re: Front couch or "Gaucho"
[VAL] Re: LED lighting

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 07:59:05 -0500
From: Ann & Tony Heerbrandt <aaheerb@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Wheel seals

I need to repack the wheel bearings on my '68 Caravel.  Does anyone know
a part# (Napa, preferred, or Tekonsha, or whatever) for the wheel
bearing seals for Kelsey Hayes drum/brake system?

Thanks,
t hawk

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 10:13:51 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:Suburban Heater

A few months back someone had issues with there unit shutting down the pilot 
when starting up.!
I don't remember if there was ever a solution but mine just started doing 
that!
If I hold in the reset while someone turns up the stat and then slowly let up 
on the plunger, it fires. When I try and let it fire on it's own it clicks 
and the pilot goes out!
Any ideas on a cure would be appreciated!

AlanT
Phx Az
74 safari

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 10:27:44 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wheel seals

I had no trouble taking a seal from my '68 Caravel to NAPA and finding a
replacement. The seal number was good. NAPA does have a book of parts
for electric brakes by manufacturer and a collection of parts to fit
most of the makes in that book. And somewhere here, I should have the
ticket with number, but I don't know which sack that bill is in, if I
kept it. Its not a tax deductible cost for me, so saving the bill is
only good for checking that the credit card was charged properly. I
think I grabbed a second seal just in case they ran out, but I don't
remember where I stashed it.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 09:16:02 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wheel seals

> I need to repack the wheel bearings on my '68 Caravel.  Does anyone know
> a part# (Napa, preferred, or Tekonsha, or whatever) for the wheel
> bearing seals for Kelsey Hayes drum/brake system?
> 
> Thanks,
> t hawk

Hey t:

Tekonsha 5605

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:38:34 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wheel seals - I've dug

I bought a NAPA number 16811 wheel seal for the right drum on my '68
Caravel. It cost me $11.99 net. There have been hints that Caravel may
not have always received the same hardware even during the same
production year. Things like differences in shock position.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:20:59 -0800
From: Rob Super <robsuper@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] More wiring: grounding & inverters?

When our inverter is plugged to shore, the grounding is as previously 
suggested: neutral is UNbonded from the shell/chassis ground and the 
system then depends on grounding through the pedestal to the service 
panel. On unplugging the ground reverts to the shell/chassis.

Question (referring back to the previously envisioned scenario of the 
kid climbing into the Airstream, in the rain, with one foot still in 
the mud): if the inverter is on and 120 volts gets to the shell, 
whether directly or via a short to ground, is the kid zapped? Or do all 
those little electrons prefer to run right back to the battery? (Assume 
no GFI and a breaker that's slow to trip.)

Thanks,

Rob

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 14:19:30 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] More wiring: grounding & inverters?

When unplugged and running on the inverter, the 120 volt wiring, both
hot and neutral is floating unless its grounded in the inverter itself.
Then if either hot or neutral is connected to shell by a short, there
still won't be a circuit completed by kid to earth to cause a shock.
There's nothing connected to ground other than by the tongue jack and
then only if the tongue jack is on the ground and even then that is a
poor ground connection. But so long as the inverter lets the 120 volts
float with respect to ground, then there's no shock hazard.

Only a GFI breaker trips at currents that will protect life, any other
breaker won't notice current through a body.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 23:05:09 EST
From: RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Front couch or "Gaucho"

Dear VAL members,
Bonnie and I restored our front couch to nearly original specs and 
conditions. It was a 3 month project on the wood work and wood finishing. (Bonnie did 
most of the finishing). Then we had S&B auto upholsterers here in Encinitas Ca. 
do the upholstery. 
Our rig ('65) was badly devalued by the front couch being removed. We feel 
strongly that the loss of the correct front couch is a big negative when we see 
Airstreams for sale. The original couch was made with rather flimsy, thin 
plywood which was light weight but failed over time and especially failed quickly 
when the front skylight became missing or damaged as in our case. So we used 
thicker ply and changed a few small items like the access to the water tank and 
the left armrest which we eliminated the upholstery and lowered down to couch 
level with a nice Mahogany top. Anyone who wants help with the couch 
restoration feel free to call or email us and we'll send some photos of critical 
details to help and inspire you to repair that feature and not trash it. Stuart 
Resor.

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:07:12 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: [VAL] Re: LED lighting

Hi all:
   Mark, the sheet metal man who's supervising, instructing me on work, 
and designing on the fly as pertains to my '56 Bubble rebuild - came up 
with a clever use of the new LED tail lights that I bought at a truck 
shop. We were going to put them in in toto which would have meant that 
we'd have to make the hole in the skin a little bigger and also that 
the big klutzy black rubber gaskets on the new lights would show; the 
lights being designed for use on a big truck. I wanted the new lights 
cuz they each have 44 very bright LEDs. Anyway, he found that by 
judicious use of the sheet metal shears, he could cut away the already 
rusted part of the original bezel til it just fit on a small rim in the 
new housing and screw the whole thing back together and install. No big 
black rubber gasket/seal and the fit is perfect. I'll have to put in 
some time cleaning up the old rims/bezels but those will be some HOT 
tail lights!
    He also figured out a way to cut the back off some nautical style 
dome lights - with power slurping Xenon bulbs - and replace them with a 
LED light that has about 15 white bulbs. Lots of light and little draw 
on the battery. I'm putting a waterproof nautical type light in the new 
bathroom and using a 25w, 12v incandescent bulb. Shouldn't draw too 
much and if it does, I'll use it mostly when on shore power.
I found another version of this light made up in stainless steel and 
will use it as a porch light.
    I took pics of both refits and soon as I can figure out how to post 
the pics, I'll put them up.
Jo Ann

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End of VAL Digest V1 #134
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