The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #123
VAL Digest Saturday, January 10 2004 Volume 01 : Number 123
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
[VAL] Re:acdc/thanks
[VAL] Gray water for toilet use
Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
[VAL] copper gas lines
Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
[VAL] Black water tank for 71 Safari
Re: [VAL] copper gas lines
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #120 - Ref. venting
Re: [VAL] copper gas lines
Re: [VAL] Black water tank for 71 Safari
Re: [VAL] copper gas lines
[VAL] missing messages
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #120 - Ref. venting
Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
Re: [VAL] copper gas lines
Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #120 - Ref. venting
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #111 - Spring bar ratings
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #114 - Tire/axle/side skids
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #45 - Trailer thieves, Locks
[VAL] Out of Office
Re: [VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #114
Re: [VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
[VAL] RE: Tire Skids
Re: [VAL] * * * Vintage Airstream Club 2004 Rocky Mountain Rally * * *
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL tire skids
[VAL] test
Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 01:00:39 -0500
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
Can you run your air conditioner with the EU 2000?
Jim
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 11:24 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> I've had my EU 2000 for about a year. What a great generator! I've used
it
> at 8000+ feet, in rain, snow and have left it outside in freezing weather.
> Although it is a bit difficult to get started after being cold soaked all
> night, it always started and worked like a charm. I think you received a
> defective generator. I've used regular gas and higher octane. I normally
> run the higher octane in the ATVs every 2-3 tank and use the same gas in
the
> generator. Hopefully you will have better luck with your unit now that it
> is fixed.
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of JimW
> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 7:32 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I recently purchased the Honda genarator, and really loved it, for two
tanks
> of gas. I was running Christmas lights with it on the second tank of gas
> and shut it down around around 9 PM. A heavy fog rolled down the river,
and
> the snow began falling, but the generator was in a shed. The temps
dropped
> from low 40's to 20's. The next night I went to start it and something
> broke. Honda was great and fixed it under waranty. They said the intake
> valve stuck, and the rocker arm cracked. Now they would not venture
further
> into what may have happened. I may have prevented the problem by not
> pulling so hard on the rope, but that's just me. Next time I will make
sure
> it turns easy.
>
> I have been using the same gas in the ATV's, and could find no water in
the
> gas. My load on the generator was about 50%. The unit was fresh from the
> factory, and I did check the oil level when I recieved it. The octane of
> the gas was 86 as Honda recomends. There was no pinging.
>
> This generator purrs like a kitten, and service from Honda is really great
> here. I would buy again, but has anyone an idea of what may have created
> this problem? I suspect the fog, but it is a long way from the air intake
> to the intake valve.
>
> Honda had this generator fixed very fast, but winter storms hit some of
the
> worst roads we have in Montana, and I just got it back the other day.
Works
> fine now.
>
> Comments are appreciated...
>
> JimW
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 01:14:23 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
no
you would need to run two units of 2kw each, or 4kw total to run your
airconditioners. with these Honda generators though it is possible to hook
them up in series to produce 4kw.
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 1:00 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> Can you run your air conditioner with the EU 2000?
> Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 11:24 PM
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
>
>
> > I've had my EU 2000 for about a year. What a great generator! I've
used
> it
> > at 8000+ feet, in rain, snow and have left it outside in freezing
weather.
> > Although it is a bit difficult to get started after being cold soaked
all
> > night, it always started and worked like a charm. I think you received
a
> > defective generator. I've used regular gas and higher octane. I
normally
> > run the higher octane in the ATVs every 2-3 tank and use the same gas in
> the
> > generator. Hopefully you will have better luck with your unit now that
it
> > is fixed.
> > Pete
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of JimW
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 7:32 PM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I recently purchased the Honda genarator, and really loved it, for two
> tanks
> > of gas. I was running Christmas lights with it on the second tank of
gas
> > and shut it down around around 9 PM. A heavy fog rolled down the river,
> and
> > the snow began falling, but the generator was in a shed. The temps
> dropped
> > from low 40's to 20's. The next night I went to start it and something
> > broke. Honda was great and fixed it under waranty. They said the
intake
> > valve stuck, and the rocker arm cracked. Now they would not venture
> further
> > into what may have happened. I may have prevented the problem by not
> > pulling so hard on the rope, but that's just me. Next time I will make
> sure
> > it turns easy.
> >
> > I have been using the same gas in the ATV's, and could find no water in
> the
> > gas. My load on the generator was about 50%. The unit was fresh from
the
> > factory, and I did check the oil level when I recieved it. The octane
of
> > the gas was 86 as Honda recomends. There was no pinging.
> >
> > This generator purrs like a kitten, and service from Honda is really
great
> > here. I would buy again, but has anyone an idea of what may have
created
> > this problem? I suspect the fog, but it is a long way from the air
intake
> > to the intake valve.
> >
> > Honda had this generator fixed very fast, but winter storms hit some of
> the
> > worst roads we have in Montana, and I just got it back the other day.
> Works
> > fine now.
> >
> > Comments are appreciated...
> >
> > JimW
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 10:51:40 -0500
From: Dick Kenan <as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
Don't you mean in parallel? Wouldn't a series hookup doublie the
voltage?
- - Dick
(5368)
At 01:14 AM 1/9/2004, you wrote:
>no
>
>you would need to run two units of 2kw each, or 4kw total to run your
>airconditioners. with these Honda generators though it is possible to hook
>them up in series to produce 4kw.
>
>Tom
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 1:00 AM
>Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
>
>
> > Can you run your air conditioner with the EU 2000?
> > Jim
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 11:24 PM
> > Subject: RE: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> >
> >
> > > I've had my EU 2000 for about a year. What a great generator! I've
>used
> > it
> > > at 8000+ feet, in rain, snow and have left it outside in freezing
>weather.
> > > Although it is a bit difficult to get started after being cold soaked
>all
> > > night, it always started and worked like a charm. I think you received
>a
> > > defective generator. I've used regular gas and higher octane. I
>normally
> > > run the higher octane in the ATVs every 2-3 tank and use the same gas in
> > the
> > > generator. Hopefully you will have better luck with your unit now that
>it
> > > is fixed.
> > > Pete
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > > [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of JimW
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 7:32 PM
> > > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > > Subject: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I recently purchased the Honda genarator, and really loved it, for two
> > tanks
> > > of gas. I was running Christmas lights with it on the second tank of
>gas
> > > and shut it down around around 9 PM. A heavy fog rolled down the river,
> > and
> > > the snow began falling, but the generator was in a shed. The temps
> > dropped
> > > from low 40's to 20's. The next night I went to start it and something
> > > broke. Honda was great and fixed it under waranty. They said the
>intake
> > > valve stuck, and the rocker arm cracked. Now they would not venture
> > further
> > > into what may have happened. I may have prevented the problem by not
> > > pulling so hard on the rope, but that's just me. Next time I will make
> > sure
> > > it turns easy.
> > >
> > > I have been using the same gas in the ATV's, and could find no water in
> > the
> > > gas. My load on the generator was about 50%. The unit was fresh from
>the
> > > factory, and I did check the oil level when I recieved it. The octane
>of
> > > the gas was 86 as Honda recomends. There was no pinging.
> > >
> > > This generator purrs like a kitten, and service from Honda is really
>great
> > > here. I would buy again, but has anyone an idea of what may have
>created
> > > this problem? I suspect the fog, but it is a long way from the air
>intake
> > > to the intake valve.
> > >
> > > Honda had this generator fixed very fast, but winter storms hit some of
> > the
> > > worst roads we have in Montana, and I just got it back the other day.
> > Works
> > > fine now.
> > >
> > > Comments are appreciated...
> > >
> > > JimW
> > >
> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
"The trouble with most folks isn't so much their ignorance, as knowing so
many things that ain't so."
- -- Josh Billings
- ---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 09:13:47 -0800
From: "JimW" <jjw@ttc-cmc.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
You can build your own parallel cables with little expense.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=848900&uid=558963
See the pictures in the link above.
Jim
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> no
>
> you would need to run two units of 2kw each, or 4kw total to run your
> airconditioners. with these Honda generators though it is possible to
hook
> them up in series to produce 4kw.
>
> Tom
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 12:12:50 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
When I wrote that I had in mind some D cell batteries and how to double the
voltage - not thinking it should have been the capacity or wattage, not the
volts.
Good catch!
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Kenan" <as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> Don't you mean in parallel? Wouldn't a series hookup doublie the
> voltage?
>
> - Dick
> (5368)
>
> At 01:14 AM 1/9/2004, you wrote:
> >no
> >
> >you would need to run two units of 2kw each, or 4kw total to run your
> >airconditioners. with these Honda generators though it is possible to
hook
> >them up in series to produce 4kw.
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> >To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> >Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 1:00 AM
> >Subject: Re: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> >
> >
> > > Can you run your air conditioner with the EU 2000?
> > > Jim
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > > To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 11:24 PM
> > > Subject: RE: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> > >
> > >
> > > > I've had my EU 2000 for about a year. What a great generator! I've
> >used
> > > it
> > > > at 8000+ feet, in rain, snow and have left it outside in freezing
> >weather.
> > > > Although it is a bit difficult to get started after being cold
soaked
> >all
> > > > night, it always started and worked like a charm. I think you
received
> >a
> > > > defective generator. I've used regular gas and higher octane. I
> >normally
> > > > run the higher octane in the ATVs every 2-3 tank and use the same
gas in
> > > the
> > > > generator. Hopefully you will have better luck with your unit now
that
> >it
> > > > is fixed.
> > > > Pete
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > > > [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]On Behalf Of JimW
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 7:32 PM
> > > > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > > > Subject: [VAL] Achilles Heel of EU 2000 Generator?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > I recently purchased the Honda genarator, and really loved it, for
two
> > > tanks
> > > > of gas. I was running Christmas lights with it on the second tank
of
> >gas
> > > > and shut it down around around 9 PM. A heavy fog rolled down the
river,
> > > and
> > > > the snow began falling, but the generator was in a shed. The temps
> > > dropped
> > > > from low 40's to 20's. The next night I went to start it and
something
> > > > broke. Honda was great and fixed it under waranty. They said the
> >intake
> > > > valve stuck, and the rocker arm cracked. Now they would not venture
> > > further
> > > > into what may have happened. I may have prevented the problem by
not
> > > > pulling so hard on the rope, but that's just me. Next time I will
make
> > > sure
> > > > it turns easy.
> > > >
> > > > I have been using the same gas in the ATV's, and could find no water
in
> > > the
> > > > gas. My load on the generator was about 50%. The unit was fresh
from
> >the
> > > > factory, and I did check the oil level when I recieved it. The
octane
> >of
> > > > the gas was 86 as Honda recomends. There was no pinging.
> > > >
> > > > This generator purrs like a kitten, and service from Honda is really
> >great
> > > > here. I would buy again, but has anyone an idea of what may have
> >created
> > > > this problem? I suspect the fog, but it is a long way from the air
> >intake
> > > > to the intake valve.
> > > >
> > > > Honda had this generator fixed very fast, but winter storms hit some
of
> > > the
> > > > worst roads we have in Montana, and I just got it back the other
day.
> > > Works
> > > > fine now.
> > > >
> > > > Comments are appreciated...
> > > >
> > > > JimW
> > > >
> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > > > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> > >
> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> "The trouble with most folks isn't so much their ignorance, as knowing so
> many things that ain't so."
> -- Josh Billings
> ---------------------------------------
> Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
> Retired and loving it!
> WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
> Atlanta
> mailto:as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 12:52:54 -0500
From: Gary <verygary@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re:acdc/thanks
Thanks again Fred, also Dean and Gerald. It has been almost two months
since I was last working on the Airstream and my questions sent to
valist were to help me prepare for the next steps in my project. Yes,
Dean you are correct to point out that the fan does have the manual
switch for both power sources and all lights have switches and bulbs for
both also. Everything works great and too my surprize the 12v lights
seem to produce plenty of, well, light. As I was kind of fumbling around
saying before, maybe I prematurely worried about how the new furnace,
water heater and water pump were powered and which power source they
will use. Probably both, although I remember the old furnace having a
transformer box also. I did save this part just in case. The reason I
do not know this is because I have not read the installation manuals
having only successfully refitted the new units in place and
retrofitting the orginial vents. After getting them in place it was on
to chasing leaks in between polishing and you name it. ( I know it is
too early to polish but my excuse was that there was finally some good
weather to work in ) So instead of sending out more questions I should
be more informed about what the demands are for each appliance first
then research which "box" I need.
Thanks again.
Gary Campbell
62' Safari
Portland, Maine
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 14:14:23 -0500
From: Rick Langer <farreach@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
I was just checking out the Ultra Van and read where they used gray water to
flush the toilet. Has Airstream ever tried this? Sounds like a great
boondocking technique. Right up there with the bucket washing machine. I
don't have a gray water tank on my '66 GT, but I'm tempted to rig something
to collect used sink water for toilet use.
Rick Langer
#3847, VAC, TCT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 11:35:54 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
Rick,
>>snip Right up there with the bucket washing machine.
Does the bucket washing refer to doing laundry while on the go? Years
ago I read John Steinbeck's "Travels With Charlie" wherein he described
doing his laundry that way as a result of accidentally having his clothes
fall into a trash can of water and dirty dishes.
Thanks,
Glyn
> From: Rick Langer <farreach@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 14:14:23 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
>
> I was just checking out the Ultra Van and read where they used gray water to
> flush the toilet. Has Airstream ever tried this? Sounds like a great
> boondocking technique. Right up there with the bucket washing machine. I
> don't have a gray water tank on my '66 GT, but I'm tempted to rig something
> to collect used sink water for toilet use.
> Rick Langer
> #3847, VAC, TCT
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 12:53:49 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] copper gas lines
hello all,
i am still trying to learn all there is to my trailer and this forum has been
very helpful. a new question has come up. i have several copper propane supply
lines attached to the underside of the aluminum belly held to the skin by way
of conduit clamps that then go up into the trailer interior by way of holes
drilled in the belly. is this normal ? or has some PO done a butcher job on
it. seems to me that AS would have contained the lines between the floor and
the underbelly skin but maybe not. your help in appreciated
harry truitt
franktown co
66 safari
wbcc vac
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 14:46:32 -0800
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
I've seen Japanese toilets where the sink is built above the toilet tank so
the sink water fills into the toilet tank to be used again
there.
Michelle
"Hope is the golden
bridge that joins
our hearts to
the eternal."
- --Nello Pailini--
I was just checking out the Ultra Van and read where they used gray water to
flush the toilet. Has Airstream ever tried this? Sounds like a great
boondocking technique. Right up there with the bucket washing machine. I
don't have a gray water tank on my '66 GT, but I'm tempted to rig something
to collect used sink water for toilet use.
Rick Langer
#3847, VAC, TCT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 13:57:25 -0600
From: "David Beard" <dbeard@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Black water tank for 71 Safari
Help! Does anybody have a black water holding tank for a 71' L23D2? It's
pie shaped about 26x26x8. El Monte Pastics no longer has the mold. The
mold went to Inca Plastics and then disappeared. Airstream is sold out
of this item. I'll have to have one made from aluminum or stainless
steel if I can't find one.
Dave Beard
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 16:08:02 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] copper gas lines
Harry,
What you see is correct! The reason they are on the outside versis
the inside, on the outside if there's a leak, nothing happens other than
you smelling the gas telling you you have a problem that you needs to
fixed. If this happened with the gas lines inside, you don't smell the gas,
the gas builds up in the underbelly a spark happens and BOOM!!!
We get to see you at the Big Airstream Rally in the sky! And there's
not even any good parts left to sell on Ebay!
Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 2:53 PM
Subject: [VAL] copper gas lines
> hello all,
> i am still trying to learn all there is to my trailer and this forum has
been
> very helpful. a new question has come up. i have several copper propane
supply
> lines attached to the underside of the aluminum belly held to the skin by
way
> of conduit clamps that then go up into the trailer interior by way of
holes
> drilled in the belly. is this normal ? or has some PO done a butcher job
on
> it. seems to me that AS would have contained the lines between the floor
and
> the underbelly skin but maybe not. your help in appreciated
>
> harry truitt
> franktown co
> 66 safari
> wbcc vac
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 09:12:00 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #120 - Ref. venting
Propane refrigerators draw their cooling air from the outside and exhaust
it to the outside. If one is installed so that it draws from the interior
it is a faulty installation.
The exhaust from the burner goes right up the same vent path as the heat
from the coils (condenser). We don't want the exhaust to have any way to
get into the trailer interior while we're sleeping.
Ovens and ranges exhaust to the interior but they are not normally used
while we're sleeping. Plus there should be an exhaust.
Al
>
> Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 09:00:48 -0800
> From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 63 Tradewind
>
> You mentioned that the curbside is all scraped up, is there an
aluminum louvered cover on the outside of the fridge? My reefer is
running hot and a vent would certainly help.
> Thanks.
>
> Brad,
> I'm afraid you are out of luck. There are no louvers for the fridge,
just an upper and lower hatch type door 8" X12" to access the back of the
fridge for servicing. I think the fridge drew it's air from the front
panel below the door. I have heard of people installing flat low amp
computer fans to help move the air over the coils. This may help your
refrigeration problems.
> Colin
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 12:16:07 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] copper gas lines
or has some PO done a butcher job on
> it.
Hi Harry:
Nope. That's the way the builder intended. A safety issue I'm sure. I
imagine the code requires it on trailers. Mine's that way too.
GQ '67 Safari
4022 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 12:42:41 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Black water tank for 71 Safari
Dave,
Contact Ronco Plastics and arrange to fax them a drawing of what you
want and they'll build it for you. You may remember a post of mine a few
weeks back where I described having two different tanks made by them for me
for two different sailboats we owned. In both cases they were smack on to
the size I needed and the price was very fair.
Go to their web site at http://www.ronco-plastics.com or call them
directly at 714.259.1385 to discuss your special needs. Note that both
times I dealt with them, the price I paid was 50% of the ones listed in
their on line Catalog. That also included all the fittings I needed thrown
in for free. I even took advantage of their offer to add a 3" inspection
plate (with O-ring sealing threaded cap) on the top for future cleaning with
a garden hose. That probably is not necessary with the heads we use on our
Airstreams but I thought you'd like to know that anyhow.
Good luck,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel
Santa Monica CA
> From: "David Beard" <dbeard@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 13:57:25 -0600
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Black water tank for 71 Safari
>
> Help! Does anybody have a black water holding tank for a 71' L23D2? It's
> pie shaped about 26x26x8. El Monte Pastics no longer has the mold. The
> mold went to Inca Plastics and then disappeared. Airstream is sold out
> of this item. I'll have to have one made from aluminum or stainless
> steel if I can't find one.
>
> Dave Beard
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 14:43:43 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] copper gas lines
hello paul and GQ
thanks for the info on my copper
harry truitt
franktown co
66 safari
wbcc vac
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] copper gas lines
> Harry,
>
> What you see is correct!
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 17:25:57 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] missing messages
It appears that some of the messages on Jan. 1, 2004 did not get relayed to
those on the digest.
This was when Dennis Morgan, who is no longer on the list took it upon
himself to dump about
30 junk messages onto the list. I removed these messages from the digest,
and now see that
some others did not get out as a result.
I will try and send these out later as a separate digest.
- -Tom
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:53:38 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #120 - Ref. venting
TAKE THE HATCH DOOR IF NO ONE ELSE HAS DIBS ON IT YET!!!
Tom
WBCCI 5303
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 10:12 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #120 - Ref. venting
> Propane refrigerators draw their cooling air from the outside and exhaust
> it to the outside. If one is installed so that it draws from the interior
> it is a faulty installation.
> The exhaust from the burner goes right up the same vent path as the heat
> from the coils (condenser). We don't want the exhaust to have any way to
> get into the trailer interior while we're sleeping.
> Ovens and ranges exhaust to the interior but they are not normally used
> while we're sleeping. Plus there should be an exhaust.
> Al
>
> >
> > Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 09:00:48 -0800
> > From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
> > Subject: Re: [VAL] 63 Tradewind
> >
> > You mentioned that the curbside is all scraped up, is there an
> aluminum louvered cover on the outside of the fridge? My reefer is
> running hot and a vent would certainly help.
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Brad,
> > I'm afraid you are out of luck. There are no louvers for the fridge,
> just an upper and lower hatch type door 8" X12" to access the back of the
> fridge for servicing. I think the fridge drew it's air from the front
> panel below the door. I have heard of people installing flat low amp
> computer fans to help move the air over the coils. This may help your
> refrigeration problems.
> > Colin
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:59:17 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
And, with those Japanese toilets (in Japan anyway!) BOTH sexes face the wall
to do their business, all of them. Perhaps having the sink above the toilet
is OK in that regard as you won't ever bang your head rising from the seat.
;))
Tom
WBCCI 5303
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
> I've seen Japanese toilets where the sink is built above the toilet tank
so
> the sink water fills into the toilet tank to be used again
> there.
> Michelle
>
> "Hope is the golden
> bridge that joins
> our hearts to
> the eternal."
> --Nello Pailini--
>
> I was just checking out the Ultra Van and read where they used gray water
to
> flush the toilet. Has Airstream ever tried this? Sounds like a great
> boondocking technique. Right up there with the bucket washing machine. I
> don't have a gray water tank on my '66 GT, but I'm tempted to rig
something
> to collect used sink water for toilet use.
> Rick Langer
> #3847, VAC, TCT
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 17:58:09 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] copper gas lines
The main reason that the copper propane lines are on the outside of the
bellyskin is because propane is heavier than air and if a leak were to
develop, the propane would leak down and away from your trailer. Keep your
nose tuned up to the smell of leaking propane. kind of smells like rotten
eggs. You won't mistake it.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT
on 1/9/04 2:08 PM, Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com at Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Harry,
>
> What you see is correct! The reason they are on the outside versis
> the inside, on the outside if there's a leak, nothing happens other than
> you smelling the gas telling you you have a problem that you needs to
> fixed. If this happened with the gas lines inside, you don't smell the gas,
> the gas builds up in the underbelly a spark happens and BOOM!!!
> We get to see you at the Big Airstream Rally in the sky! And there's
> not even any good parts left to sell on Ebay!
>
> Paul Waddell
> WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 2:53 PM
> Subject: [VAL] copper gas lines
>
>
>> hello all,
>> i am still trying to learn all there is to my trailer and this forum has
> been
>> very helpful. a new question has come up. i have several copper propane
> supply
>> lines attached to the underside of the aluminum belly held to the skin by
> way
>> of conduit clamps that then go up into the trailer interior by way of
> holes
>> drilled in the belly. is this normal ? or has some PO done a butcher job
> on
>> it. seems to me that AS would have contained the lines between the floor
> and
>> the underbelly skin but maybe not. your help in appreciated
>>
>> harry truitt
>> franktown co
>> 66 safari
>> wbcc vac
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 17:16:14 -0800
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
Back in the '50's, Monomatic made a 'recycling' toilet... it uses 'black
water' from its small internal holding tank over and over again... i have
one i got from another lister some years ago, for the Trailwind Project; i
haven't used it yet, but it seems like a last resort solution from the
pre-holding tank era... my thought was to re-plumb it so that it used gray
water piped to the flush inlet side, and run the outflow to the black water
tank... just an idea that i've had floating around.
tuna
reno, nv
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 20:30:04 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
Airplanes use recirculating toilets. When you first get on a cleaned plane
the toilet water is deep blue. By the end of a cross-country trip with a
load of passengers the color changes - to a medium bluegreen color. They
use macerator pumps internally as part of the tank itself so they are able
to do this. You could do something very similar with your Airstream. All
it would take is a bit of planning. I would not want to use the gray
water - because - that gray water would be taking space inside the toilet
tank and that would severely cut down on your capacity.
You could capture the gray water and then pump it into the toilet which is
then dumped elsewhere, that would work if the black tank capacity had the
room to spare. I don't think it does unless you are camping as a single
person or a childless couple, childless friends/partners, whatever. Don't
want to miss anyone! ;)))
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Back in the '50's, Monomatic made a 'recycling' toilet... it uses 'black
> water' from its small internal holding tank over and over again... i have
> one i got from another lister some years ago, for the Trailwind Project; i
> haven't used it yet, but it seems like a last resort solution from the
> pre-holding tank era... my thought was to re-plumb it so that it used gray
> water piped to the flush inlet side, and run the outflow to the black
water
> tank... just an idea that i've had floating around.
>
> tuna
> reno, nv
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 21:55:24 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
If you plan to do this, I would think you would have to watch the
amount of soap being used in the grey water. I remember reading
in the owners man. about putting different types of soap down the
toilet.
Paul Waddell
1270
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 21:39:35 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #120 - Ref. venting
Al, I beg to differ. The original gas refrig in my '60 drew air from the
interior of the trailer from a vent just below the refrig door. Not the best
of designs, I agree, but it is the way it was done back then. Of course if
you are talking about a modern refrigerator you are correct, it draws from
the outside.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 10:12 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #120 - Ref. venting
> Propane refrigerators draw their cooling air from the outside and exhaust
> it to the outside. If one is installed so that it draws from the interior
> it is a faulty installation.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 01:16:41 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #111 - Spring bar ratings
My Reese sheet shows for the trunnion type spring bars:
550 lbs (pair) rating - 1" square (now 600 lbs)
750 lbs (pair) rating - 1 1/8" square (now 800 lbs)
1,000 lbs (pair) rating - 1 1/4" square (my hitch) (now 1,200 lbs)
The current catalog has different steps.
When selecting the spring bars, the cargo load anticipated for the rear
of the tow vehicle needs to be taken into account in addition to the
tongue (hitch) weight of the trailer.
DETERMINING THE CORRECT WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING HITCH:
Determine the tongue weight of the trailer. Tongue Weight includes the
trailer tongue weight with full gas, water, waste systems and a packed
trailer.
Estimate the car trunk load (includes all items carried in the back of
the vehicle).
Match the sum of these weights to the proper EAZ-LIFT Hitch. For example,
a tongue weight of 500 lbs., coupled with a car trunk load of 200 lbs.,
equates total hitch weight of 700 lbs.
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 15:54:41 -0800
> From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Reese question
>
> > I don't see any numbers on my bars and I'd like the lightest for my
Bambi.
> > Jim
>
> Hey Jim:
>
> FWIW, the 550# weight number is stamped on the round end that goes up
into the hitch trunion on my EAZ-LIFT bars. Maybe Reese is the same?
>
> Good luck & HNY to ya,
>
> GQ '67 Safari
> 4082 in CA
>
> ------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 01:04:03 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #114 - Tire/axle/side skids
On the '79 Silver Streak they were a $66.00 option on the original
factory order.
They are nothing but a simple piece of bent steel bar with clamps at each
end. Perhaps today's tires are not so flat and blowout prone as
1950's-1970's tires were?
Al
> Tire skids were an aftermarket add-on, sold by trailer dealers and not
a factory option.
>
..............................................
> Would I buy them now, even after all that? That depends-- as who sells
them anyway? I doubt they're illegal. They probably just didn't sell well
enough to continue to be manufactured as I sure haven't seen them new
anywhere. Who Knows? Do they void anybody's warrenty?? That's your
decision maker as far as I can see--but be prepared for quite a wait. i
am not even sure he is accepting new orders. good luck
> harry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 01:58:50 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #45 - Trailer thieves, Locks
I have used the Master Lock that slides over the lip around the trailer
hitch coupler and is painted hammer finish brown. The key lock opens and
closes a hole through which the key, an Allen (1/8"?) wrench, reaches up
through to tighten the lock plug. The one I have fits 2" coupler.
$35-$40. I think it is made for 2 5/16" also. 4-pin plug.
Hidden Hitch has a similar lock, Gorilla Guard - $50
hitches4less.com/gorguarcoupl.html
Hidden Hitch Guardian - $33.30
www.hidden-hitches.com/trailer_couplers.htm
I have one of the new Master chrome plated locks that has a swiveling
plunger lock. The one I have fits 2" coupler. $25. I think it is made
for 2 5/16" also - $38.89
www.masterlock.com/cgi-bin/class_search.pl?class_id=CA_TS_03
Cheap disk tumbler plug. Can be broken by driving a big square shaft
screwdriver into the key slot and turning with a wrench. Or just whack
the projecting part that contains the plunger with a big hammer - the
body of the lock is zinc alloy ("pot metal").
Some of these locks appear physically strong but use 4-pin lock cores
that anyone with a little practice can pick. The Abus "Diskus" padlock is
a 4-pin core lock also.
My trailer that has a 2 5/16" coupler has a sawn-off old scored 2 5/16"
ball with a screw threaded into the sawn-off part for a handle. It is
inserted into the coupler, the latch closed and a padlock used to lock
the latch.
Blaylock has models that will fit most couplers. Unfortunately the body
is made of aluminum, which can be sawn off rather easily, particularly
with a cordless "Sawz-All." $30
www.mrlock.com/eshop/locks/mfg/blaylock/index.html
In every case a thief can hitch up with a chain and tow the trailer off
to a secluded place where he can saw or break any lock off.
If you have an electric tongue jack you can put a switch inside the
trailer and route a wire in series with the jack motor wire to the
switch. Unfortunately the electric jacks I've seen have the wire to the
motor head exposed, so all one would have to do would be to hot-wire it.
It would slow them down, which tends to discourage thieves.
To prevent towing, use wheel locks. The ones that jam between the tires
are not security locks, but are simply parking brakes to keep the trailer
from jouncing around while parked. I know, I drove off and forgot to
remove them. The tires spit them out, breaking the hook screws.
This kind of lock clamps over the wheel, nuts and around the back of the
wheel like those horrible things the parking police put on cars when they
don't pay the meter. Some models on the market don't work on brake
equipped wheels.
About the only way I can think of to really give determined thieves a
serious problem (other than an armed guard living in the trailer) is to
cut the A-frame off and set it up for bolting to the trailer frame.
Pretty drastic, especially since most of our trailers have equipment
mounted on the A-frame: LP tanks, batteries, fuseboxes, and the tongue
jack.
You can put the axles on jackstands and remove the wheels. A lot of
trouble each time you park.
Or you can jack it up and remove the hubs or even axles. A lot of heavy
work.
Parking it in a locked garage inside a secure storage facility with 24
hour security is probably the best way to keep one's trailer. The
security fence and guards keep others away and the lock on the garage
keeps the guards and fellow renters out of your trailer.
Or, just have such an old ratty beater of a trailer that no one wants to
steal it. Make sure it's watertight and fix up the interior real nice but
leave the exterior dented and hailstoned.
Al Grayson
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 00:08:06 -0400
> From: "T o m :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] hitch lock
>
> Master makes hitch locks - newest I've seen is a pin with a head on one
end and then the lock slides onto the pin which locks down the lift
mechanism on the trailer's hitch.
>
> Master also makes a lock that you insert into the ball coupler on the
trailer which expands I believe when the key is turned making it very
difficult to remove from the coupler.
I've not seen one like this. One Master Lock model, which is no longer
listed at the MasterLock.com site, fits onto the lip around the coupler
socket. I treat it at the top. The other has a ball that goes into the
socket and has a plunger that goes over the coupler lip. I treat it
second from the top.
>
> When I've left mine out I've locked up the safety chains with a
separate padlock, locked down the coupler lift mechanism, etc.
>
> Wal*Mart should have all the above items - they did last night at Super
Wally World near me after midnight.
>
> You could always remove the tires and wheels so anyone would need to
raise the trailer and insert a big dolly to tow it away! That would look
pretty obvious then that it was stolen. Or, would that be today's
low-rider RV? ;)
>
> Tom in NC
> 5303
>
> From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: RE: [VAL] hitch lock
>
>
> : What kind of lock can I get for the hitch? I got one at Lowes but I
couldn't get it to work due to the lever thing being too high and
scratched it up and can't return it. I looked at all sorts of pictures
on the net on rv sites but I can't figure out how they work. I have a
small utility trailer with a key lock but it doesn't work on the A/S due
to the lip around the ball holder part of the hitch.
> :
> : I'm thinkin I got too much in this thing now not to lock it when I go
out of town!!! Thought about chaining it to the brick fence but they
could just pull down the brick wall and I'd have to rebuild that.
> I do try and park the other car in front of it...or I willl now I have
thought of it.
> :
> : Lexxy/aka/Lynn
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 06:17:49 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Out of Office
As I indicated earlier, I acted too late to really do much about Maurice's
autoresponder. Hopefully, they are about ended.
Dennis Morgan has however been removed from the list because of his 30
messages.
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Morgan" <dmorgan@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 2:25 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
> > From: "publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com" <publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> > Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 01:44:54 -0500
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
> >
> > I will be out of the office from December 15th through December 31st.
Thanks.
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 09:09:56 -0500
From: Blair <hitek_airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
He must have messed up the message.
Maybe he's 0ff til Monday???
Blair
At 02:22 AM 1/1/2004, you wrote:
>Ok Maurice. It's January 1st. Come back already.
>
>
>
>on 12/31/03 11:44 PM, publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com at publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>wrote:
>
> > I will be out of the office from December 15th through December 31st.
> Thanks.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 08:36:59 -0600
From: "David Beard" <dbeard@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #114
- ------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 12:08:04 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <timshephard@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #113
Yikes Dave, Your scaring me!
I also have a '71 Safari and so far my tank is pretty much ok as far as
I know.
What do you suppose happened to your tank? What do you mean exactly
'way beyond repair'?
What was involved in removing your old tank? ie. What did you have to
disassemble?
I'd appreciate any replacment info you come up with.
Thanks.
- - -Tim
What happened? It cracked around the dump valve mount. My guess is that
harsh chemicals were used to clean it out at one time and the plastic
hardened. The rest of the tank is still pliable.
A spider pattern around this area would mean that the bottom of the tank
would have to be cut out and replaced. I would not trust a repair that
large. A small hole or crack can often be patched.
To remove the tank:
1: Drill out the rivets and remove the outside dump valve cover. You
will also have to remove two screws from the water heater door. (square
drive, NOT PHILIPS)
2: Un-snap and remove the laundry hamper
3: Un-bolt the toilet. Use a short 1/2 inch wrench, bolts at 10 o'clock
and 4 o'clock.
4: Under the laundry hamper is the toilet shut off valve..turn it off.
5: Take the water supply line off of the toilet.
6: Lift out the toilet.
7: Drill out the rivets on the toilet back splash guard and carefully
remove the panel.
8: Drill out the rivets for the toilet floor. (don't forget the rivets
under front edge trim piece)
9: Un-screw the toilet mount after removing the three set screws. large
Philips)
10: Remove the breather tube. You may have to cut the tube inside the
closet or remove a coupling.
11: Lift out the toilet floor.
12: From outside, take out the screws that hold the dump valve to the Y
connector. You will likely have to cut out the screws due to rust.
13: Pry the dump valve away from the Y connector.
14: From inside, lift up the tank just far enough to remove the level
detector wires. (this is on the side next to the closet wall)
15: Lift out the tank.
See Tim, nothing to it. Takes about 2 hours. The hard parts is getting
all the parts to go back together.
I don't guess anyone just happens to have a spare tank laying around?
Dave Beard
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 08:20:13 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
Maurice
Welcome back to the office - we sure have missed you....
Ken J.
At 01:44 AM 1/1/04 -0500, you wrote:
>I will be out of the office from December 15th through December 31st. Thanks.
>
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>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
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>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 10:47:33 -0500
From: "Deborah Bede" <stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: Tire Skids
My 1955 Bubble has tire skids, bolted onto the leaf springs with big
U-bolts.
Happy New Year everyone,
Deborah
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 12:42:06 -0700
From: "Earl Peck" <earlpeck@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] * * * Vintage Airstream Club 2004 Rocky Mountain Rally * * *
Hi Shari,
Glad to get the dates and activities list. Are the prices listed on your
site per person or per unit? This will be our first rally of any sort so
it's all new to us. Although the excitement is building it's hard to get
motivated to shovel a path through the 2+ feet of new snow (here in sunny
Sun Valley Idaho) out to the barn to start polishing the aluminum today.
However, if the Rose Bowl goes bad it may be a great way to remove some
frustration.
Our application will be in the mail as soon as we recieve verification on
the price.
Best wishes for the New Year,
Earl and Marlene Peck
WBCC 1965
1965 Overlander
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 12:07:02 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL tire skids
RJ:
It's a little embarrassing to admit but I don't know if my axle is
solid or hollow; nor whether the original axle (I've had it replaced
with a Dexter at a farm/stock trailer shop) was a Dura-Torque or not.
Also, I didn't realize the Bubble was a '56 until just recently since
the PO's put '57 on the legal papers - probably as dumb as me. It
probably sold first in '57 but the Airstream Dreams guy said that it
was a '56 based on I think, the doorway gasket. Anyway, there were no
skids nor evidence of any having been installed. What is your best
advice for placement on this short, single axle trailer?
If you care to see them I could send some pics of the underside - we
haven't put the new bellyskin on yet. Do you have a high speed internet
connection? The blacktank is completely under the frame since we didn't
elevate the potty and I am absolutely sure I wouldn't want to drag that
tank and assembly over a curb, rock, or other structure. Nor would I
ever want it to drop and drag in the event of a tire problem. So to
recap:
1. Have skids or not?
2. If yes, where and how (weld onto the frame or bolt on - the
frame/leaf springs/axle)
3. Shape the skids how?
Can you also direct my to any more pictures - I did check out the one
of your trailer.
The Bubble had brakes housing on the original axle when I bought it
but no brakes - just some kind of break-away feature I've been told.
The first mechanic that looked under it asked me "Who stole your
brakes" to which I replied "Huh?".
Jo Ann Wheatley in San Luis Obispo, CA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 21:32:32 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] test
test
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 21:37:03 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Gray water for toilet use
I've considered saving gray water in a house design for toilet flushing.
It works best when there's a close match between gray water creation and
need for toilet flushing. I concluded that a tank with significant
capacity was needed. Can't take kitchen waste, only shower/tub and
laundry waste. Don't have much shower/bathtub and have less laundry
waste in the camper.
In the stationary residence with large or nearly unlimited water supply,
plumbing standards figure 10 toilet flushes at 5 gallons each per day
per person when planning consumption. Of course, for a few years modern
residential toilets have flushed with 1.6 gallons. Generally baths, dish
washing, and laundry take less per day per person.
I figured that I'd need a 500 gallon tank with a pump. Then I'd have
included a float valve to keep a minimum level of water available for
flushing. That would use up fresh water. Then the gray water tank would
have needed an overflow into the ordinary septic drain for the occasions
when the gray water accumulated faster than it was used.
In a trailer, the situation seems tighter. Gray water from hand washing
and showers working to use minimum water doesn't leave much for toilet
flushing. In the small trailer, there's little if any laundry to make
gray water. And a continue need to separate dish water from hand washing
water. Don't need raw and cooked food in the flush water. That part of
gray water doesn't store well, almost needs the same treatment as black
water. And that significantly limits the amount of gray water available
for flushing. I realize the trailer toilet doesn't need much water for
flushing.
With care and a reasonable match in grey water production and toilet
water needs, use of grey water for toilet flushing can be successful.
You do have to compromise on having the water standing in the toilet be
clear. Its going to be gray, sometimes dirtier.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #123
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