The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #107
VAL Digest Thursday, December 25 2003 Volume 01 : Number 107
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - Ronco holding tanks
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - Waste of money?
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - A/C compressor vibration
[VAL] 6.5 Turbo Diesels
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #106 - Home track lighting; wire nuts
[VAL] Re: Hello, and vexing leaks
[VAL] Re:An A/S Christmas!
Re: [VAL] Re:An A/S Christmas!
[VAL] Re: GM Diesels
[VAL] Hello
Re: [VAL] Re: GM Diesels
Re: [VAL] Hello
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #104 - Wide whitewalls
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - Portable A/C
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #104 - Wide whitewalls
Re: [VAL] Re:An A/S Christmas!
[VAL] Thanks
Re: [VAL] Hello
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - Waste of money?
Re: [VAL] Task lighting
[VAL] Tire pressuers
[VAL] Seasons Greetings
[VAL] Diesel Help!
Re: [VAL] Diesel Help!
[VAL] MERRY CHISTMAS TO ALL
Re: [VAL] MERRY CHISTMAS TO ALL
Re: [VAL] Seasons Greetings
Re: [VAL] Diesel Help!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 01:31:41 -0500
From: "publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com" <publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
I will be out of the office from December 15th through December 31st. Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 23:51:13 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - Ronco holding tanks
Perhaps the reason is that you are buying direct from the manufacturer
and AS isn't getting their 100% markup (which to anyone in the
replacement parts industry will not think an unusual markup).
Many manufacturers will not sell direct but your description of why they
keep no stock on hand but make everything to order is probably the
explanation.
Al
................................................
> You can see their online catalog at http://www.ronco-plastics.com.
>
> My experience is that whatever the stated price in the catalog is,
they'll charge you half. Don't ask me why, just trust me that a stated
$120.00 tank cost me $60.00 two years ago.
>
................................................
> Glyn Judson
> 1969 Caravel, #508
> Santa Monica CA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 23:43:05 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - Waste of money?
Professional rust removal gets all the rust out of the rust pitting
unless it is very severe. Extremely valuable cars and other equipment are
run through this process.
I would not recommend removing the frame of a RV just to zinc coat it,
but if one was already doing a body-off restoration it is worth
considering.
Much better is actual galvanizing, which is electroplating with zinc, of
a brand new frame. It is not so thick, therefore does not add so much
weight, and adheres better to the steel. Many boat trailers are
galvanized after welding into assembly. As long as the zinc is not broken
through (scratched) it will last many years. Look at old electric
transmission towers and you rarely will see any rust even in coastal
areas.
More and more motor vehicles are galvanized at least in part. My Chevy
van has a galvanized body, except for the roof. It was a rent-a-van in
Indiana. It was exposed to salt or even worse perhaps calcium chloride
(calcium salt) as is evidenced by the rust on the frame and chassis
parts. The body has no rust inside or out, even where it has been thumped
and the paint broken.
Or you could just have a new frame made of aluminum! Weldable alloys are
as strong as mild steel. If one is willing to spend enough money you can
get almost anything done. Use the old frame for a utility trailer, or
sell it to someone whose frame is totally shot.
As far as closed hollow spaces, if they are truly closed there will be no
significant rust inside and would not need coating.
Al G.
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 07:53:23 -0600
> From: DL <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - Frame re-do
>
> They charge by the pound. with a 100 pound min.
> Your frame can not have ANY hollow parts that do not have vent holes in
them.. Like square tubing, it needs to have holes in each end drilled,
so the acid and zinc can drain out.
> Unless you live on the Sea Shore I think it all would be a waist of
time and money. If rust has started, other than just surface rust, it
is too late.
>
> Merry Christmas to all and see you on the road.
>
> 73
> Dean L W5GXL
>
> On Dec 22, 2003, at 7:37 AM, Jim Greene wrote:
>
> > Any idea what the cost would be to zinc dip an Airstream frame?
> > Jim Greene
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 23:41:14 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - A/C compressor vibration
Any TT or MH roof structure is going to be "bouncy" compared to the
underframe of the same, so compressor vibration is going to resonate much
more from a roof mount unit than from a floor or underfloor mounted unit,
other factors being similar.
There are window mount (house) A/C and heat pump units that can be
adapted to RV use. It can even be done without messing up the appearance
of the RV like sticking them through a window does. Ducting would require
some ingenuity, though.
Al
.................................
The rooftop unit in my 1980 Avion 34'er sounded like an commercial air
compressor...well sort of. It certainly was not whisper quiet...
> ..............................
> > Good Luck. RL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 00:51:53 -0600
From: "Ned P. Digh" <npdigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] 6.5 Turbo Diesels
From: Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Turbo Diesel 6.5
The fuel pump seems to be a concern with most of the 6.5 turbo diesels. This
one was just replaced before I purchased it. My owner manual seems to push
fuel filter replacement and checking for water in the line around every oil
change. While the fuel filter and water check are easy to do I don't see a
problem with doing this at oil changes. I plan to spend a few extra bucks and
help keep away the big fixes and large headaches of not having the truck when
I need it.
Chris, sounds like you have a good plan. My 94 has a decal on the door "do
not tow in OD". I learned that the hard way on our 82 6.2 diesel. Question:
I do not have the correct owners manual, what is the recommended tranny fluid
change interval? I recently changed the fluid and filter at about 30 thou,
with a good bit of that towing the AS. One of the pleasant surprises with the
6.5 is that so far it has started in cold weather, without plugging in the
elect heater. If it is below freezing and the elect heater is not plugged in
for the old 82 6.2, it probably is not going to start until the heater is
plugged in for a couple of hours. Ned Digh
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 00:02:28 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #106 - Home track lighting; wire nuts
These are available at Lowe's. Each light fixture clips onto a plastic
rail that has the electric contact strips in the grooves the clips clamp
into. They are easily removable and movable. Incandescents don't care
whether it's AC or DC as long s the voltage is correct - 12-14 VAC is the
same as 12-14 VDC to an incandescent light bulb. Halogens are, of course,
incandescent. The only difference between them and ordinary light bulbs
is that they are filled with a halogen gas like iodine instead of the
usual argon. Also their bulbs are quartz glass instead of ordinary glass,
to withstand the higher temperatures the halogen gas permits the filament
to be run at. So: "quartz-halogen."
Also I noticed a couple of lines of self-sealing outdoor waterproof wire
nuts at Lowe's tonight. These would appear to be just the thing for
connections in your TTs and MHs. There was another line of such for
underground use, 30V maximum.
Al G.
> Brad Norgaard wrote:
>
> >Hi Michelle,
> >Yes, 12 volt halogen's run just fine on 12 volt DC. I am using a home
track lighting system called Trac 12 by Juno. Found it at a lighting
store. Many different fixtures and they also carry a single unit plug.
Email me off list for some photos.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 08:30:16 -0600
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Hello, and vexing leaks
Thanks to Judy and all who offered advice. We had a reasonably warm day
on Monday here in Wisconsin (40 degrees- what can I say? could be 10
below..) and I took the opportunity to Vulkem over the awning track to
skin connection. Think I'll take your advice and put in extra rivets as
well. Next time it warms up we'll test this theory. I hope it's the
culprit- I'm running out of options!
By the way- I like the dental tool idea. I've been using a painter's
tool- has a sharpenable point on it as well as other scraping/prying
surfaces- and works quite well for removing caulk.
Cheers,
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 10:53:56 -0500
From: "Patricia V. Raimondo" <praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re:An A/S Christmas!
Guess what my kids got me for Christmas???? Yea!!!!!!! a Cyclo Polisher
and a DeWalt Compounder with all the bonnets and accessories! Am I
excited or what?!!!! I know what I'll be doing all spring after I get
the Flying Cloud back from the plant! The best thing about having adult
children is they can spend more for presents!! It also helps that I
have a "hobby" that there is always something to contribute to!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Years!
Patti
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 08:55:54 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:An A/S Christmas!
Patti,
What a great Christmas gift. You'll have to be sure and come to the
Colorado Rally in August so we can all see the "new" Flying Cloud.
Have a great Holiday,
Roger and Leslie
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 11:04:58 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: GM Diesels
In a message dated 12/23/2003 11:03:16 PM Mountain Standard Time,
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
Chris, I think you will be pleased with your choice of the 2500 Diesel. I
purchased a 1994 2500 about 18 months ago. I learned later that 94 was not a
good year for fuel injector pumps, that and several other things had to be
replaced,
I've been biting my lips recently with all the discussion over GM diesels as
I try to keep an open mind. GM has a history of using the public for there
testing grounds.
I had a GM Diesel in the 80s that was a nightmare!!!!! It included a METRIC
transmission that added to the ADVENTURE!!!!!
I've had a few Dodge and Ford Diesels since and never had to Say " it was a
bad year" for anything. That's a chip off my shoulder....
AlanT Phx Az .....74 safari .... 93 Dodge Diesel Truck
PS...My company VAN is a Chevy 350 V8 with 190k on orig. motor so ya'll don't
think I'm anti GM....they should keep making the good products that they
always have!
Leave the Diesels to the BIG DOGS LOL!!!!!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 11:35:47 -0500
From: "Ron" <rainsworth8@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Hello
Anybody getting this message? Been trying for weeks, just couldn't get a
message through.
Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
'74 Ambassador International 29'
The "General Forrest"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 11:36:07 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: GM Diesels
I had a 1982 GM 3/4 ton diesel suberanin 180K miles I replaced the injector
pump twice lost track of the number of starters and replaced the ac compresser
3 times and 2 transmitions. I carefully mantaine my vechiles so it was not
neclect on my part. This is the last jock GM will play on me . I also at one time
had a Vaga and before that a Covair. I like small cars and was preshered to
buy American.
My present tow vechile is a 1992 Dodge Cummins my plasure car is a Echo.
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 08:43:57 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hello
Ron,
Worked for me.
Happy Holidays,
Glyn Judson
Santa Monica CA
1969 Caravel #508
> From: "Ron" <rainsworth8@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 11:35:47 -0500
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Hello
>
> Anybody getting this message? Been trying for weeks, just couldn't get a
> message through.
>
> Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
> '74 Ambassador International 29'
> The "General Forrest"
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 00:21:13 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #104 - Wide whitewalls
Get the fake wide whitewalls that seat between the tire bead and the edge
of the rim, and keep your modern tires.
I think JCWhitney has them, perhaps other similar accessory suppliers.
Unless you are doing a show car the fakes will serve well for a long
time, maybe outlast more than one set of tires.
Anything from Coker is expensive compared to normal mass produced tires.
Al G.
.......................................
I want to put wide white wall tires on the car.
.....................................
> Paul Waddell
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 00:39:28 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - Portable A/C
Having only a hot air exhaust means the A/C is sucking a lot of outside
air in through air leaks here, there and everywhere. All that hot outside
air has to be cooled, so it really loads the system. A/C's are usually
set up to recirculate on the interior (cooling) side, not to draw from
outside like an automobile A/C. The unit needs to have an outside air
intake duct along with the hot air exhaust duct.
Al Grayson
>
> Glyn - Have you considered a portable AC unit. I didn't want to put the
camel hump on my 57 Overlander so I bought a 9k portable unit.
> Bought a piece of plexaglas and cut it to fit the front window and cut
a hole in plexaglas to duct the hot air outside. You just open the window
and insert the "glas" next to the screen and attach the AC duct and hit
the "On' switch and enjoy the cool breeze!
> AC is stored in one of the closets when not in use. It is a little
worrisome setting it up but I don't have that hunk of plastic on top of
the shiny aluminum.
> Jerry (in GA where you must have an AC)
> WBCCI VAC
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 12:10:39 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #104 - Wide whitewalls
Gangster whitewalls.
Tom
From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #104 - Wide whitewalls
> Get the fake wide whitewalls that seat between the tire bead and the edge
> of the rim, and keep your modern tires.
> I think JCWhitney has them, perhaps other similar accessory suppliers.
> Unless you are doing a show car the fakes will serve well for a long
> time, maybe outlast more than one set of tires.
> Anything from Coker is expensive compared to normal mass produced tires.
>
> Al G.
> .......................................
> I want to put wide white wall tires on the car.
> .....................................
>
> > Paul Waddell
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 10:43:06 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:An A/S Christmas!
Patti
Wow, nice kids, great present........
Ken J.
At 10:53 AM 12/24/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Guess what my kids got me for Christmas???? Yea!!!!!!! a Cyclo Polisher
>and a DeWalt Compounder with all the bonnets and accessories! Am I excited
>or what?!!!! I know what I'll be doing all spring after I get the Flying
>Cloud back from the plant! The best thing about having adult children is
>they can spend more for presents!! It also helps that I have a "hobby"
>that there is always something to contribute to!
>
>Merry Christmas and Happy New Years!
>
>Patti
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 12:58:11 -0500
From: "Ron" <rainsworth8@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Thanks
Thanks Glyn,
Problem was I'm using Barbara's machine and forgot to change the return
address. It was barb@xxxxxxxxxx.net and that just didn't work.
We hope everyone has a safe and wonderful holiday season. Don't forget who's
birthday it is.
Ron, Barbara and General Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 14:40:15 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Hello
You're through ! Merry Christmas and Welcome
Daisy
Ron wrote:
> Anybody getting this message? Been trying for weeks, just couldn't get a
> message through.
>
> Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
> '74 Ambassador International 29'
> The "General Forrest"
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 15:34:26 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #105 - Waste of money?
Generally, hot dipped galvanizing is considered to give better
protection than electrogalvanizing. The steel is bare, but fluxed going
into the hot dip and the bond is very good. As good a bond as
electroplating and the coating is much thicker. Zinc protects by being
the sacrificial material when the steel is exposed to the same moisture
as the zinc. The thicker the zinc, the less it is likely to be porous,
and the more zinc there is to be sacrificed. Because more zinc is used,
construction nails, bolts, and hardware that are hot dipped cost a great
deal more than electroplated zinc. Electroplated hardware outdoors tends
to rust in less than a year, hot dipped lasts many years.
All those power transmission towers were hot dipped, I'm certain. Also
all their hardware.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 16:31:33 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Task lighting
You cannot send pictures to the list. They, as well as any other kind of
attachment are automatically removed from messages.
This is done for safety purposes, in order to preclude transmission of
viruses to members of the list.
If anyone has pictures of interest to the other members, they can be
uploaded to the album that I have set up for the use of the list. It is
located at http://www.tompatterson.com/VALgallery/index.php.
- -Tom
> Hi Daisy,
> OK, here you go. Here's some pictures of the set-up. I installed the
single
> unit recessed plug over the dinette, it goes in with a twist and locks in
> place. Luckily, I found a display for the Juno Trak 12 lighting system in
a
> home lighting store that was going out of business. I have one of most of
> everything they offer.
>
>
> Brad Norgaard
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 17:07:57 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Tire pressuers
In a couple years, the very high tech tires that monitor pressure with a
display on the vehicles dash will be required by US law. They will only
include the vehicle's four tires, no provisions for a dually tow vehicle
or the trailer.
For the most part tire failures should be gradual, losing air due to a
bad valve, or a poor bead fit, or a nail hole. If ignored the slow leaks
WILL lead to a destroyed tire because with low air pressure the tire
can't hold up as much weight and so flexes more and that makes it heat
more and heat destroys the tire. Fast leaks can happen, but the driver
should be awake to avoid broken glass and pot holes that can cut tires
and make them fail rapidly.
Therefore if behoves all of us pulling a trailer to watch for tow
vehicle or trailer tires loosing air. In the big rigs (and we are just
miniatures of them) federal law requires daily inspections of tires,
hitches, safety chains, brakes, lights, and structure. We would do
ourselves well to do the same. While the cook stows the kitchen after
breakfast, the driver should be checking tires with the tire gauge, the
hitch and safety chains, the lights, and (but that needs motion) the
brakes. A low tire needs to be properly inflated ASAP, whether with the
portable cigarette lighter driven compressor or at the nearest filling
station before getting on the road.
It would be nice to have automation including the trailer but that seems
far off. But we can do some remote sensing. With tow vehicle and trailer
loaded and tires all known to be properly inflated, I compare the level
of the ribs of the front window protection plastic to the bottom of the
glass in my pickup topper back window. With the old tires the bottom of
that protector was just even with the bottom of the topper back window.
A tilt of a quarter inch from one end to the other was common, due to my
unbalanced weight in the truck. I've noticed a bit bigger tilt was cured
by finding a tire on my Caravel low by 10 pounds and airing it up. Hence
remote sensing of tire pressure. Look back through the mirror and watch
for the trailer leaning slightly by comparing the front window to the
back window of the tow vehicle. Or with all proper, add some tape or
paint dots to the trailer front to show the normal position and observe
while driving if they change. If they change, stop and check the tire
pressures.
When checking trailer signal lights, I find it is much faster to turn on
the 4 way flasher than to individually check stop, right turn and left
turn. Electrically, from the switching in the tow vehicle on back, stop
and turn use the same wires and same lamps, so once ANY of them works,
the others will work until the two vehicle wiring breaks, so a 4 way
flasher check is simple (takes only one person and one trip around the
rig) and sufficient.
Gerald
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 21:39:58 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Seasons Greetings
We wish eatery one the happiest of holidays and above all good health in the
coming new year
Jim Smith Mary Smith,And Little Hemorid (the American Eskimo pup)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 19:09:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Diesel Help!
Might be pushing the uses of the list but a little in need because of chistmas. Well
I'm having my first problem with the "new" truck. 98 2500 suburban diesel 6.5 turbo.
For some reason while out today I had a problem. Here it is.
After watching the LOTR movie started the truck up and let it warm up for a little not
bad here in NJ, 51 degrees. Took off and only got a few truck lenths before it stalled.
Restarted and it ran for a few seconds and stall again. Happen a few times and then
stayed going. Was able to go a little more before stalling again.
Ok figure I had fuel problem. Full tank with only 80 miles on it. Fuel came form a good
station that has high turn over. Let it sit and tried again. wouldn't start at all.
Engine would turn but not start.
Since the fuel pump was just changed only about 200 miles ago and the tank was suppose to
be purged I figure maybe they didn't do such a well job and the fuel filter was clodged.
Before this I tried the fuel line water drain and fuel pumped or fine. So off I go to get
a fuel filter. Get one and replace. Truck starts up and off I go. Not even a half a mile
done the parking lot it dies. Get it to run enough to get into a parking spot.
Well maybe I didn't bleed all the air out of the fuel filter. So I bleed it a little more.
After a few ties at this when I'm all set to give up it starts. Idealing fine. Drive it
around the parking lot and its fine. Park it and let it ideal for another minute and it
dies again and wouldn't restart. Give up and head home to ask for help.
HELP!
Anyone.
Chris and the Diesel Grinch!
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 22:53:43 EST
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Diesel Help!
I would take one of the fuel lines off of an injector have some one crank
the motor and see if sperts of fuel comes out of the line if not the problem
could be with the fuel pump check the outlet of fuel pump when some one cranks
the motor to see if indeed you are pumping fuel to the injector pump. On a GM I
would guess that it is the injector pump.
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 20:50:07 -0800
From: Pearl Main <pearlm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] MERRY CHISTMAS TO ALL
Good health and wheels that keep rolling to al Pearl in So Call
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 00:48:38 EST
From: Klingerswall@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] MERRY CHISTMAS TO ALL
MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
THE O'DELLS
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 00:49:18 EST
From: Klingerswall@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Seasons Greetings
MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
THE O'DELLS
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 00:59:07 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Diesel Help!
Put some Stanadyne or John Deere fuel conditioner in the fuel tank. If this
were me I'd add about a pint, 16 ounces, as it will not hurt the system at
all. IF you have water in your fuel the fuel conditioner will help.
Drain the fuel filter again just in case you got water in the tank from the
last fuel stop. I'd would then remove and replace, again, the fuel filter.
Make absolutely sure the fuel filter is seated correctly but do NOT over
tighten the filter.
If the truck will 'idle' but not 'run' down the road I would think you have
fuel starvation OR the fuel pump is "sucking air" and cause about the same
condition - idles but produces no real power.
The absolute best product to use in your fuel tank IS Stanadyne (blue label
preferred) or John Deere fuel conditioner; because Stanadyne makes it for
John Deere.
One other thing - when was the last time the air filter was changed? Your
engine "could" be getting fuel but the incorrect amount of air to mix with
the fuel. If you haven't changed the air filter since you've owned the
truck OR it has been awhile since this was done I'd replace that also.
This does not sound like any major condition - it sounds like either fuel
starvation, water in the fuel tank and / or fuel tank, or it could be a
plugged up air filter.
You may also want to put as much fuel as possible into the new fuel filter
BEFORE installing it. Some engines of the past needed a 'loaded' fuel
filter as some diesel engines were not "self priming". I have the
International 7.3L Powerstroke in my tow vehicle and it IS self priming - it
will suck fuel into a new fuel filter. Some of the Detroit diesels did not.
Tom
WBCCI 5303
From: "Chris Tognetti" <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Diesel Help!
> Might be pushing the uses of the list but a little in need because of
chistmas. Well I'm having my first problem with the "new" truck. 98 2500
suburban diesel 6.5 turbo. For some reason while out today I had a problem.
Here it is.
>
> After watching the LOTR movie started the truck up and let it warm up for
a little not bad here in NJ, 51 degrees. Took off and only got a few truck
lenths before it stalled. Restarted and it ran for a few seconds and stall
again. Happen a few times and then stayed going. Was able to go a little
more before stalling again.
>
> Ok figure I had fuel problem. Full tank with only 80 miles on it. Fuel
came form a good station that has high turn over. Let it sit and tried
again. wouldn't start at all. Engine would turn but not start.
>
> Since the fuel pump was just changed only about 200 miles ago and the tank
was suppose to be purged I figure maybe they didn't do such a well job and
the fuel filter was clodged. Before this I tried the fuel line water drain
and fuel pumped or fine. So off I go to get a fuel filter. Get one and
replace. Truck starts up and off I go. Not even a half a mile done the
parking lot it dies. Get it to run enough to get into a parking spot.
>
> Well maybe I didn't bleed all the air out of the fuel filter. So I bleed
it a little more. After a few ties at this when I'm all set to give up it
starts. Idealing fine. Drive it around the parking lot and its fine. Park
it and let it ideal for another minute and it dies again and wouldn't
restart. Give up and head home to ask for help.
>
>
> HELP!
>
> Anyone.
>
> Chris and the Diesel Grinch!
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #107
*************************
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|