The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #105
VAL Digest Tuesday, December 23 2003 Volume 01 : Number 105
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - Frame re-do
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - A/C - where to install it?
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - 3/4T vs. 1T
[VAL] New Member - black tank
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - Frame re-do
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - Frame re-do
Re: [VAL] Anyone out there? and AC installation
[VAL] Is: Tank source, was: New Member - black tank
[VAL] Tow vehicle
[VAL] FIRST POST, BULKHEAD NOT ALIGNED
Re: [VAL] FIRST POST, BULKHEAD NOT ALIGNED
[VAL] bulkhead alignment and plumbing question
Re: [VAL] bulkhead alignment and plumbing question
Re: [VAL] bulkhead alignment and plumbing question
Re: [VAL] bulkhead alignment and plumbing question
Re: [VAL] Task lighting
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103
Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Re: [VAL] Task lighting
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 01:19:02 -0500
From: "publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com" <publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
I will be out of the office from December 15th through December 31st. Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 23:18:08 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - Frame re-do
Has anyone who has done an off-the-frame restoration had their frame hot
zinc dipped ("galvanized")? There is a company in Nashville TN that has a
40' long tank of molten zinc that they use mostly for coating structural
members but is big enough to put a car frame wide item of up to 40' long
in. They also have an acid tank for cleaning and prepping the metal. This
would coat the inside and outside of the frame members with zinc, which
would preclude rust for just about ever.
For metal restoration there is a franchise chain that does metal
cleaning. Oxalic acid removes rust, as does phosphoric acid
("Metal-Prep"), which leaves a thin coat of iron phosphate that protects
from future rust until the metal can be painted (or zinc coated).
Al
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 22:41:17 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - A/C - where to install it?
Roof mount A/C is inherently noisy as to move air from a central location
to the ends of a large trailer (or MH) requires a high speed blower. A
ducted system has pipes (usually flex ducting) that carry conditioned air
to several outlets spaced throughout the living space, so the speed of
the air can be low enough that it generates little noise. Ducts for
refrigerated air need to be of materials that do not encourage
mildew-fungus growth and are easy to clean. Rigid conduit is therefore
superior for cool air than flexible ducting. Its smooth interior has less
surface area, few irregular surfaces for dust and mildew to accumulate,
and is easier to clean than flex. It also has much less resistance to
airflow.
Al
>
> Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 23:14:48 -0800
> From: "Richard McFarland" <estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
> Subject: [VAL] Glyn's A/C upgrade
.............................................................
> I happen to be one of the anti-roof mount a/c people...
>
> It's not just the looks and weight thing - I fight allergies like crazy
- - and while I like a/c - and often need it - I can't handle it blowing
right at me and depending on the size of a trailer - that can be an
issue.
.........................................................................
.........................
> For me - "ducted" a/c is of great interest - not just vent directed
from a common single location. I realize that cool air falls and an
upper location can be most efficient...but in a small space...I'll opt
for a little inefficiency - if I can diffuse the output of air away from
me - and if there is any way of limiting the noise and vibration...so
much the better.
> If you are using your trailer as an office - this might be of interest
to you.
>
> I realize that the newer models are probably much-much quieter - I've
only experienced the older units. The rooftop unit in my 1980 Avion
34'er sounded like an commercial air compressor...well sort of. It
certainly was not whisper quiet...
>
> If you are not planning to tow your Caravel - then you have the
potential for being very creative as to installations. You might
investigate the possibility of building a small "service" building for
your trailer - neat and tidy and weathertight etc...??? and it could be
the source for your hot water and a/c (small household heatpump type)
that was then piped and ducted into the trailer??? With a little care it
could be done in a way that was not too invasive to the trailer in case
you decide to sell to someone who wants to travel with it.
>
> This might sound complicated - but you live in an area not known for
severely cold weather - and what with the sometimes higher costs inherent
in RV specialty appliances etc...a base-station service shed might not be
all that expensive - considering the convenience of a domestic sized hot
water heater and lots of nice and quiet ducted heat and a/c.
>
> If you've never spent any time in a small trailer with a rooftop a/c
unit running - you might do a little investigating before you start your
upgrade.
>
> Just my own thoughts and brainstorming.
>
> I recently sold my Avion - before I had the chance to upgrade it's a/c
system - so I plan to do a modified system when I find my Airstream. I
have my eye on the Dometic Corps. Duo-Therm Cool Cat. It's an a/c and
heat pump system for small trailers that can be used by itself - one
self contained unit - or a ducting system can be added. It's a little
tricky finding info on it - for some reason it is not listed on the
regular Dometic/Duo-Therm site.
..............................
> Good Luck. RL
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 22:53:40 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - 3/4T vs. 1T
I think you will find that the difference between a 3/4T and a 1T is very
small in most lines. Look at the towing capacity ratings and the 1T
vehicles are usually rated less than their 3/4T equivalents. They have
the same engines, driveshafts, axles, frames. Just a heavier duty
transmission and rear springs. Frames are often the same in 3/4T and 1T
models.
If I was ordering a new van I would opt for a 3/4T unless I wanted a more
powerful engine that was not available in the 3/4T, or if I had to get
the 1T to get the long wheelbase. The 3/4T models seem to have a little
less rigid suspension for a smoother ride. Our former 3/4T Ford pickup
had a surprisingly mild ride for a heavy vehicle. and that's from one who
was spoiled by years of traveling in Citrokns.
Al
>
> A 3/4 ton pickup properly equipped with transmission cooler, brake
controller, and load equalizing hitch should handle the 30' Sovereign
adequately. A 1 ton is overkill. A 1/2 ton is a little puny for all
situations. It will do on the straight and level, but not all the world
is straight and level.
>
> Gerald J.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 23:11:02 -0800
From: Stan Nicholson <stan@xxxxxxxxxx.ucsb.edu>
Subject: [VAL] New Member - black tank
Dave -
Congrats on the '71 Safari. Our '72 Overlander's black tank gave up
the ghost early this summer. Concensus was that it wasn't worth
trying to repair 30 year old plastic. I had visions of big bucks for
a custom tank, but it turned out that Airstream had one in stock!
Still big bucks, but available rapidly, and it fit. Might be an
option worth exploring - I just called Parts at the factory, and got
the (to me) surprising news.
Stan
David Beard wrote:
>Any idea where I can get a new (black water)tank?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 08:37:31 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - Frame re-do
Any idea what the cost would be to zinc dip an Airstream frame?
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 12:18 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - Frame re-do
> Has anyone who has done an off-the-frame restoration had their frame hot
> zinc dipped ("galvanized")? There is a company in Nashville TN that has a
> 40' long tank of molten zinc that they use mostly for coating structural
> members but is big enough to put a car frame wide item of up to 40' long
> in. They also have an acid tank for cleaning and prepping the metal. This
> would coat the inside and outside of the frame members with zinc, which
> would preclude rust for just about ever.
> For metal restoration there is a franchise chain that does metal
> cleaning. Oxalic acid removes rust, as does phosphoric acid
> ("Metal-Prep"), which leaves a thin coat of iron phosphate that protects
> from future rust until the metal can be painted (or zinc coated).
> Al
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 07:53:23 -0600
From: DL <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103 - Frame re-do
They charge by the pound. with a 100 pound min.
Your frame can not have ANY hollow parts that do not have
vent holes in them.. Like square tubing, it needs to have
holes in each end drilled, so the acid and zinc can drain out.
Unless you live on the Sea Shore I think it all would be a waist
of time and money. If rust has started, other than just surface
rust, it is too late.
Merry Christmas to all and see you on the road.
73
Dean L W5GXL
On Dec 22, 2003, at 7:37 AM, Jim Greene wrote:
> Any idea what the cost would be to zinc dip an Airstream frame?
> Jim Greene
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>
>> Has anyone who has done an off-the-frame restoration had their frame
>> hot
>> zinc dipped ("galvanized")? There is a company in Nashville TN that
>> has a
>> 40' long tank of molten zinc that they use mostly for coating
>> structural
>> members but is big enough to put a car frame wide item of up to 40'
>> long
>> in. They also have an acid tank for cleaning and prepping the metal.
>> This
>> would coat the inside and outside of the frame members with zinc,
>> which
>> would preclude rust for just about ever.
>> For metal restoration there is a franchise chain that does metal
>> cleaning. Oxalic acid removes rust, as does phosphoric acid
>> ("Metal-Prep"), which leaves a thin coat of iron phosphate that
>> protects
>> from future rust until the metal can be painted (or zinc coated).
>> Al
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 07:05:06 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Anyone out there? and AC installation
JIm,
Just to make sure I worded that correctly. Airstream did make a pan to fit a
Coleman unit. A Coleman that is no longer available and the pan does not fit any
current production Coleman AC. The factory guy probably gave you the short
version. I tend to get windy at times.
Charlie
Jim Greene wrote:
> That's interesting Charlie. I bow to your better information. Whoever I
> talked to at the Airstream factory told me there wasn't a drain pan for the
> Coleman. May have been a newer employee who wasn't aware of the 80s Coleman
> pans.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charlie/Betty Burke" <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 4:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Anyone out there? and AC installation
>
> > Glyn,
> >
> > This data is from the factory database. The distance on the ceiling
> centerline
> > from the front rib to the centerline of the air conditioner shaft for the
> 18'
> > 1969 Caravel is 67".
> >
> > The old original Armstrong "Bay Breeze" unit weighed collectively at least
> 100
> > lbs. Current production units from Duo Therm, Coleman, and Carrier weight
> in
> > around 75 lbs.
> >
> > On the Armstrong unit the "adapter/drain pan" was part of the ac unit its
> self.
> > The Armstrong's were only every used by Airstream and thus custom built.
> >
> > Once the change was made to first a Coleman and then to the Duo Therm's of
> today
> > it was necessary to create an "adapter/drain pan" that would adapt for the
> two
> > different contours and consolidate drainage to the built in drain tube.
> > Airstream has only every made two adapter/drain pans. The first for a
> Coleman ac
> > available in the 80's. It was much longer than any current Coleman model.
> As
> > much as they would like to get rid of them Airstream still has a number of
> them.
> > The current production pan was developed specifically for the Duo Therm ac
> > units. It is available through any Airstream dealer.
> >
> > You will find when it comes time to install the AC unit that the bottom
> gasket
> > seal does not mate to the pan. It is necessary to at least notch the
> gasket or
> > as the factory does remove it in its entirety and use either Vulkem or
> SikaFlex
> > sealant.
> >
> > Charlie
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 06:49:12 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Is: Tank source, was: New Member - black tank
All,
>>snip David Beard wrote:
>> Any idea where I can get a new (black water)tank?
I come to the list with an extensive boating background (sailing), have
faced the issue of tank replacement several times myself and have helped
friends with tank issues too.
I have found that the good folks at Ronco Plastics do an exceptional job
at an exceptional price. They're located in Tustin CA but could be located
anywhere based on my previous experiences in dealing on the phone and fax
with them.
All that said, the last tank I had made was one I went down there to
pick up. What a neat experience seeing them made and seeing the holes being
put in. These tanks (like all others of this type) are rotomolded, a
process wherein molten polyethylene is injected into heated molding plates
forming a box that are spinning during the process. The actual making of
the tanks takes mere minutes from start to finish so they keep very little
stock on the shelf other than what they're making for immediate shipment.
They will make a tank to any size you want and in any shape.
For anyone considering having a new holding tank or for that matter,
fresh water tank made might, want to consider talking to them first. You
can see their online catalog at http://www.ronco-plastics.com.
My experience is that whatever the stated price in the catalog is,
they'll charge you half. Don't ask me why, just trust me that a stated
$120.00 tank cost me $60.00 two years ago.
About the installation of fittings:
The fittings (up to a 3" inspection plate) are all included for free in
the purchase price AND they'll put them anywhere and any size in the tank to
your specs. They first cut the holes into them with a hole saw of
appropriate size and then the polyethylene fittings are spun into the holes
using a mandrill and the same hand drill used to make the holes, melting the
faying surfaces into a single fused, fillet bond. Each fitting takes about
a minute to install including the cutting of the hole. I was wearing shorts
at the time (always do year 'round) and the fellow told me to stand back as
the heated liquid plastic debris gets flung a few feet when the fittings are
being spun in. All in all a way cool thing to see.
The next thing to being there is to talk to them on the phone, fax an
isometric sketch to them indicating size and location of fittings and after
giving them payment info, sit back and wait for your custom made tank to
arrive on your front steps in just a few days. I've done it that way too
and have been just as satisfied.
I should note that the most recent tank I got from them was to replace
the original factory installed one in our boat. In the years since the
first tank was made and now, their manufacturing practices have changed to
the extent that the new tank has a wall thickness that's twice what the old
one was. The outer dimensions stayed the same, the walls were just thicker
on the inside so the tank slid into the old holding structure just
perfectly.
I have no economic interest in the company, but just want to share my
personal experience dealing with them with you all.
Happy Holidays,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel, #508
Santa Monica CA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 07:41:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Tow vehicle
Hi All,
Well in hopes of Purchasing an Airstream maybe the current one we have sitting in our
driveway or maybe another we have up graded our tow vehicle to a Turbo Diesel 1998 2500
Suburban. Happen to find one that was in great shape with average miles on it for a 5
year old truck. Came with the tow package. Has a Reese electric brake controller. Need
to do a little research to see if I can come up with the instructions for it. Any advice
is welcome.
Chris, Amy, Natalie, Jordan Tognetti
Willie (Alaskan Malamute)
59 TradeWind "Maybe"
98 Diesel Suburban
Newton, New Jersey
- ---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 12:31:50 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] FIRST POST, BULKHEAD NOT ALIGNED
good morning everyone,
i am new to the group and to airstreaming as well. puchased a 66 safari two
months ago and i am in the process of restoring. i have lurked this site for a
few weeks and have found it very helpful and i have visited the archives to
find answers rather than using this email format to revist subjects but now i
need your help on a topic i can not find any information on. it concerns the
bulkhead that houses the bi-fold doors to the bath. the bulkhead is made up of
a left and right side door jam and tied in at the top with the door header.
the jams are screwed into the closet faces on both sides and tied in at the
top with the removable door header screwed into the ceiling. my problem is
that the door jams are not square to each other, that is to say that the door
side jam is closer to the front of the trailer than the other side is by about
2". this creates the header to also be out of square and it runs somewhat at
an angle on the ceiling from side to side. if this is normal, i will leave it
alone but things not square and plumb drive me crazy. i can re-position the
door side jam back about 1/2" and i can re-position the other side forward
about 3/4" making the difference only about 3/4" out of square, much better
than it is now. i have studied the situation and find no indication where any
of the closets or jams have ever been re-positioned, moved or attached so it
appears that it was built this way. was this done intentionally or perhaps
just sloppy interior work? thank you for your help and thanks for a great
resource.
harry truitt
franktown co
66 safari
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 20:25:27 +0000
From: Mitch Hill <fmhill@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] FIRST POST, BULKHEAD NOT ALIGNED
At 12:31 12/22/03 -0700, you wrote:
>good morning everyone,
>I need your help on a topic i can not find any information on. it concerns the
>bulkhead that houses the bi-fold doors to the bath. the bulkhead is made up of
>a left and right side door jam and tied in at the top with the door header.
>the jams are screwed into the closet faces on both sides and tied in at the
>top with the removable door header screwed into the ceiling. my problem is
>that the door jams are not square to each other, that is to say that the door
>side jam is closer to the front of the trailer than the other side is by about
>2". this creates the header to also be out of square and it runs somewhat at
>an angle on the ceiling from side to side.
Hi Stan,
It is normal for a good reason. I assume that your trailer must be a "Twin"
bed layout, and the street side bed is positioned forward about one and a
half inches. The door header and jam are offset back about two inches,
enough such that the bi-fold door accordions properly when open. Actually
the header is further back than the jam on the curbside as when the door is
closed, it doesn't need the room on the curbside.
Bottom line, that's the way it is supposed to be...
- --
Mitch Hill - K1FH
WBCCI 21960
'64 AS Ambassador International
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 15:11:28 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] bulkhead alignment and plumbing question
It is normal for a good reason
thanks for the info mitch. "thats the way it is supposed to be" is good enough
for me, however, i am not sure i understand the reasoning as the door folds
into the bath and is not affected by the side bed. i will play with it a bit
to see if i can get your meaning.
now for question number 2. the safari has a coleman air conditioner that i was
told was two years old. it looks new. i have not been up top to check it out
but while removing the sink and counter, i found a value hooked up to the cold
water supply that fed a 1/4" plastic supply tube through the wall by the sink
and it goes up the inside of the wall. i assume that it was to feed a swamp
cooler that the trailer might have had at one time but the value and tubing
are quite new and not old stock and appears to have been added recently. could
this coleman that i have possibly be a water fed swamp cooler? air
conditioners have no need for a water supply, do they?. what other reason for
such a small water supply? the old dometic has no ice maker (joke). i
certainly don't feel comfortable having a water supply tube running to no
where. thanks again
harry truitt
franktown co
66 safari
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 22:54:34 +0000
From: Mitch Hill <fmhill@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] bulkhead alignment and plumbing question
At 15:11 12/22/03 -0700, you wrote:
>It is normal for a good reason
>
>
>thanks for the info mitch. "thats the way it is supposed to be" is good enough
>for me, however, i am not sure i understand the reasoning as the door folds
>into the bath and is not affected by the side bed. i will play with it a bit
>to see if i can get your meaning.
Stan,
I read your response and second question, and think I see why the
confusion. My face is a bit of a shade of red, You said bi-fold door, and I
was thinking accordion door which is what the older trailers such as my '64
Ambassador international has, and I forgot about the later ones having been
switched by Airstream to bi-fold doors. Either way, the position and
geometry of the offsets of the jam and header that you describe are what is
in normal in the older trailers. Airstream has a reputation for
inconsistencies in cabinetry and options as they made changes and it sounds
like they didn't change the header or cabinet layout from the older ones
when they switched to the bi-fold doors. Its been a long time since I
had a 66 Tradewind here, and I had forgotten about the Bi-fold doors.
Can't help you on the air conditioning plumbing, other than I think your
assumption about the swamp cooler is correct.
- --
TNX, 73, Mitch - AFA1HN / K1FH
AF MARS Assistant National Digital Manager
BT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 16:45:44 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] bulkhead alignment and plumbing question
thanks mitch. your explanation of inconsistencies within cabinetry sounds
like the ticket. after examanation, i may well move the jams into as close a
square position as i can just to relieve my "plumb eye" phobia.
thanks again
harry (stan ) truitt
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mitch Hill" <fmhill@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] bulkhead alignment and plumbing question
> At 15:11 12/22/03 -0700, you wrote:
> >It is normal for a good reason
> >
> >
> >thanks for the info mitch. "thats the way it is supposed to be" is good
enough
> >for me, however, i am not sure i understand the reasoning as the door
folds
> >into the bath and is not affected by the side bed. i will play with it a
bit
> >to see if i can get your meaning.
>
> Stan,
>
> I read your response and second question, and think I see why the
> confusion. My face is a bit of a shade of red, You said bi-fold door, and
I
> was thinking accordion door which is what the older trailers such as my
'64
> Ambassador international has, and I forgot about the later ones having
been
> switched by Airstream to bi-fold doors. Either way, the position and
> geometry of the offsets of the jam and header that you describe are what
is
> in normal in the older trailers. Airstream has a reputation for
> inconsistencies in cabinetry and options as they made changes and it
sounds
> like they didn't change the header or cabinet layout from the older ones
> when they switched to the bi-fold doors. Its been a long time since I
> had a 66 Tradewind here, and I had forgotten about the Bi-fold doors.
>
> Can't help you on the air conditioning plumbing, other than I think your
> assumption about the swamp cooler is correct.
> --
> TNX, 73, Mitch - AFA1HN / K1FH
> AF MARS Assistant National Digital Manager
> BT
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 15:52:42 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] bulkhead alignment and plumbing question
Hey Stan:
Welcome to the group.
I have a pocket door in that location. The bathroom area was totally
redesigned for the '67 model year. I did take a look at some info on '66s
that I have, trying to imagine your situation, and ran into the drawing that
is apparently included with the '66 manual. It's fairly crude like the one
in the '67 manual, but it does show that things on the streetside where the
bi-fold door is mounted do not appear to particularly line up with the
curbside things. FWIW.
If you don't have this drawing, I would be glad to email you a copy of what
I have. Lemme know.
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 20:47:39 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Task lighting
hey Joann,
lED's are here, but you need to pawn more jewelry.
Go see:
http://home.tiac.net/~jtdjtd/aspix/LED/LED.html
If you want the most efficent, 12v flourescents are best, but i think
they're ugly....
Daisy (aka Daisy Diode ...)
Joann Wheatley wrote:
> The last (HaHa) hurdle seems to be lighting. I had purchased several
> marine lighting fixtures but hooking them up to a battery inside the
> trailer at night demonstrated a severe lack of really good lighting for
> the kitchen area and a whole lot of shadows. What I need is some really
> bright,, low energy use lighting. I just don't think the LEDs are quite
> there yet and am looking at the cold cathode tubes. Anybody using
> those?? Any suggestions?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 21:34:58 -0500
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #103
- -------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 23:14:48 -0800
> From: "Richard McFarland" <estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
> Subject: [VAL] Glyn's A/C upgrade
>
> Glyn - you can ask a question and you'll get many different points of
> view...
>
>
Glyn - Have you considered a portable AC unit. I didn't want to put
the camel hump on my 57 Overlander so I bought a 9k portable unit.
Bought a piece of plexaglas and cut it to fit the front window
and cut a hole in plexaglas to duct the hot air outside. You just
open the window and insert the "glas" next to the screen and attach
the AC duct and hit the "On' switch and enjoy the cool breeze!
AC is stored in one of the closets when not in use. It is a little
worrisome setting it up but I don't have that hunk of plastic on top of
the shiny aluminum.
Jerry (in GA where you must have an AC)
WBCCI VAC
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 19:28:19 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Thanks for the ribbing there, Daisy. HaHa - in the meantime I'm
considering some 12v halogen lights that are made for home use with the
installation of a transformer - except I won't need the transformer so
they are rather reasonably priced. Less than $20/light and all on a
track so you can add more individual lights as needed. These will be
the task lighting above the kitchen area. The new West Marine catalog
has some pretty fine looking cold cathode tube lights for general
illumination and although Gerald wasn't too keen on them, I may go that
way just for the energy savings and later, when the LED stuff has
matured, change them out.
Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 20:07:28 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Joann,
We have a rule on the boat that only one light can be on at a time.
That way we don't walk from the front to the back turning lights on and
leaving them on, at least some of us don't.
the idea is that we use a light for a purpose and immediately turn it
off. Through judicial use that way and using oil lamps, we can go for five
to six days using only our deep cycle group 27 house battery, saving the
engine battery for getting under way.
You might consider that kind of discipline with your halogen lights
(some of ours are halogen too) and I'll bet you'll be just fine for several
days at a time.
Glyn
> From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 19:28:19 -0800
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Task lighting
>
> Thanks for the ribbing there, Daisy. HaHa - in the meantime I'm
> considering some 12v halogen lights that are made for home use with the
> installation of a transformer - except I won't need the transformer so
> they are rather reasonably priced. Less than $20/light and all on a
> track so you can add more individual lights as needed. These will be
> the task lighting above the kitchen area. The new West Marine catalog
> has some pretty fine looking cold cathode tube lights for general
> illumination and although Gerald wasn't too keen on them, I may go that
> way just for the energy savings and later, when the LED stuff has
> matured, change them out.
> Jo Ann
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 23:07:49 -0800
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Can 12 vac halogen lights be run on 12 volt dc?
Michelle
Speak kind words and you will
hear kind echoes.
I'm
considering some 12v halogen lights that are made for home use with the
installation of a transformer - except I won't need the transformer so
they are rather reasonably priced. Less than $20/light and all on a
track so you can add more individual lights as needed.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 21:44:24 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Hi Michelle,
Yes, 12 volt halogen's run just fine on 12 volt DC. I am using a home track
lighting system called Trac 12 by Juno. Found it at a lighting store. Many
different fixtures and they also carry a single unit plug. Email me off list
for some photos.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT
on 12/23/03 12:07 AM, michelle at safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> Can 12 vac halogen lights be run on 12 volt dc?
> Michelle
>
> Speak kind words and you will
> hear kind echoes.
>
>
> I'm
> considering some 12v halogen lights that are made for home use with the
> installation of a transformer - except I won't need the transformer so
> they are rather reasonably priced. Less than $20/light and all on a
> track so you can add more individual lights as needed.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 22:56:30 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Yes, the lamps don't care whether the power is AC or DC, so long as the
voltage is the same.
One hazard of halogen lamps is that they run very hot. Its fundamental
to the halogen cycle that the lamp envelope (made of quartz, not glass)
run hot enough to evaporate tungsten envelope so with the help of the
halogen gas, it can redeposit back on the filament. Tungsten lamps
ordinarily evaporate tungsten to darken the envelope. The halogen cycle
keeps the envelope clean, but the envelope has to run very hot. In the
great space of a normal house, the halogen lamp can be safely spaced
from heat sensitive materials and skin. Be very careful to keep the
halogen lamps spaced from the thin plywood of the Airstream, or you may
find it burning. Be very careful to keep the lamps so you can't reach
them while hot or the flesh that touches them will be badly damaged and
will damage the lamp. The quartz envelope can't stand being touched. The
little grease of the clean fingerprint will char and then collect heat
from the filament and overheat the quartz.
Halogen do produce high quality light and do it a little more
efficiently than ordinary lamps while keeping a good lamp life, but
their high operating temperature can be hard on things in their
environment.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 00:30:59 -0800
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Task lighting
Hi Brad,
how does one email someone off list? I have no idea what anyone's email addy
is.
But thanks for the offer.
Michelle
Speak kind words and you will
hear kind echoes.
Hi Michelle,
Yes, 12 volt halogen's run just fine on 12 volt DC. I am using a home track
lighting system called Trac 12 by Juno. Found it at a lighting store. Many
different fixtures and they also carry a single unit plug. Email me off list
for some photos.
Brad Norgaard
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #105
*************************
-----------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
|